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CHARLES  I.  IN  PRISON 
Photogravure  after  De  La  Roche 


Copyright,   1  901 , 

BY 

M.  WALTER    DUNNE, 
PUBLISHER 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


VOLUME  I. 

Charles  I.  in  Prison Frontispiece 

Photogra\aare  after  De  La  Roche. 

Lord  William  Russell  Taking  Leave  of  His  Children,  1683.       180 
Photogravure  after  a  painting  by  Bridges. 

Oliver  Cromwell  Dictating  to  John  Milton         ....       284 
The  letter  to  the  Duke  of  Savoy  to  stop  the  persecution 

of  the  Protestants  of  Piedmont,  1655. 
Photogravure  from  an  engra\nng  by  Sartain  after  New- 

enham. 


VOLUME  II. 

The  Duke  of  Buckingham Frontispiece 

From  an  old  painting. 

Nell  Gwynne 64 

Photogjravure  after  Sir  Peter  Lely. 


GENERAL     PREFACE 


^F  ALL  the  aids  to  a  complete  comprehen- 
sion of  the  political,  moral,  social,  or  racial 
changes,  evolutions,  upheavals  and  schisms 
that  make  what  we  call  History,  the  Me- 
moirs of  each  epoch  studied  are  by  far  the 
most  valuable. 

Memoirs  may  be  called  the  windows  of 
the  mind.  In  the  privacy  of  the  boudoir 
or  of  the  study,  men  and  women  will  in- 
scribe upon  the  pages  of  their  journals  in 
terse  and  unafifected  language  their  real 
thoughts,  motives  and  opinions,  unrestrained 
by  the  calls  of  diplomacy  or  self-interest. 

The  long  drawn  out  reign  of  Louis  XIV 
afforded  ideal  scope  for  Memoirs,  and  many 
notable  private  records  of  that  era  have 
come  down  to  us — among  them  the  lengthy 
but  fascinating  Memoirs  of  Saint- Simon. 
The  political,  military  and  court  intrigue, 
gossip,  scandal,  and  intimate  detail  con- 
tained in  them  make  them  (according  to 
that  master  of  critics,  Saint-Beuve)  the 
most  precious  collection  of  Memoirs  extant. 
As  a  painter  of  character  Saint-Simon 
stands  alone;  in  detail  inexhaustible,  he 
may   be    termed    the    French    Tacitus.      A 

(V) 


▼i  GENERAL   PREFACE 

brilliant  preface  by  L^on  Valine,  Librarian  of  the  Na- 
tional Library  of  France,  introduces  the  work,  and  the 
text  is  furnished  by  that  prince  of  translators,  Bayle 
St.  John. 

Posterity  has  ranked  Evelyn  among  the  greatest  of 
English  diarists  or  memoir-writers.  He  possessed  a  keen 
observation,  an  even  and  polished  style,  lighted  up  here 
and  there  by  passages  of  wonderful  brilliancy.  From 
the  days  of  Charles  I  through  the  Protectorate  and 
the  Restoration  to  the  time  of  King  William,  he  re- 
corded everything  worthy  of  remembrance.  He  lives  in 
letters  as  one  whom  nothing  escaped,  and  as  an  evidence 
of  his  power  he  leaves  a  description  of  Whitehall  on  the 
eve  of  the  death  of  Charles  II,  which  will  live  as  long 
as  the  English  language  endures.  The  frontispiece  to 
Volume  I  is  from  an  engraving  by  Sartain,  the  earliest 
and  perhaps  the  best  of  American  engravers.  The  plate 
of  Nell  Gwynn,  which  forms  the  frontispiece  to  Volume 
II,  is  one  of  the  rarest  of  the  prints  of  that  historic 
beauty.  The  original  is  by  Sir  Peter  Lely,  whose  por- 
trait of  the  court  characters  of  that  time  are  almost  price- 
less. The  Dean  of  Librarians,  Dr.  Gamett,  of  the 
British  Museum,  contributes  a  luminous  and  impressive 
introduction. 

Of  ajl  the  Memoirs  of  the  ill-fated  Marie  Antoinette, 
so  foolish  in  prosperity,  so  heroic  in  adversity,  none  so 
possess  the  undeniable  charm  of  intimacy  as  do  the 
pages  written  by  the  ill-fated  Princess  de  Lamballe,  the 
bosom  friend  and  confidante  of  the  Queen.  Her  terrible 
death,  torn  to  'pieces  by  a  howling  mob  of  sans-ctilottes^ 
is  one  of  the  most  tragic  scenes  of  the  days  of  the  Ter- 
ror. The  Memoirs  owe  their  preservation  to  Catherine 
Hyde,  the  confidante  of  both  the  Princess  de  Lamballe 
and  the  Queen.  The  introduction  written  by  this  lady 
gives  a  vivid  account  of  herself,  of  her  rise  at  Court  and 
of  the  manner  in   which    these    invaluable    records   were 


GENERAL   PREFACE  vii 

preserved.  The  frontispiece  is  a  magnificent  reproduction 
in  photogravure  of  Meisel's  celebrated  picture  of  the  Fare- 
well of  Louis  XVI  to  Marie  Antoinette. 

From  Corsica  to  Waterloo  is  the  period  embraced  in 
the  brilliant  and  gossipy  Memoirs  of  the  great  Napoleon 
by  the  wife  of  one  of  his  most  illustrious  Marshals,  the 
Due  d'Abrantfes.  This  record  of  events,  conversations, 
social  and  court  life,  written  down  at  first  hand,  has  all 
the  attractiveness  of  a  verbal  narrative  by  a  witty  and 
womanly  woman.  Her  naive  apology'  for  introducing  the 
details  of  her  trousseau  captures  the  reader  at  once,  and 
as  one  reads  one's  sympathy  goes  out  to  the  writer  in 
increasing  measure.  The  details  given  by  Madame  Junot 
of  Buonaparte's  early  life  and  surroundings  are  full  of 
interest,  and  moreover,  her  Memoirs  supply  much  of  the 
comparatively  small  amount  of  information  we  possess 
concerning  the  eccentricities  and  social  aberrations  of  the 
Emperor's  brothers  and  sisters.  The  Napoleonic  era 
could  ill  afford  to  lose  these  almost  priceless  records. 
Mr.  S.  N.  Hamilton,  the  author  of  "Letters  to  Wash- 
ington," and  an  authority  on  all  matters  Napoleonic, 
supplies  a  brief  and  eminently  satisfactory  biographical 
sketch. 

The  Memoirs  of  Madame  Du  Barry  relate  entirely  to 
those  hours  of  her  life  which  serve  to  make  history  at 
the  Court  of  Louis  XV.  The  vivacity,  simplicity,  and 
lucidity  of  this  autobiography  is  remarkable  when  one 
considers  the  fact  that  at  no  time  did  she  have  any  op- 
portunity to  acquire  education  and  polish  save  when  she 
was  mixing  with  the  demi-monde  of  Paris,  at  Gourdan's 
celebrated  resort.  The  sprightly  wit  that  could  ensnare 
the  fickle  Louis,  the  poise  and  balance  of  mind  which 
could  steer  her  through  the  devious  ways  of  political  in- 
trigue and  court  conspiracies,  the  freedom  from  malice 
which  showed  itself  even  in  her  opportunities  of  revenge, 
here  combine  to  draw  out   the  sympathies  of   the   reader 


vlH  GENERAL  PREFACE 

to  one  who  has  been  in  many  respects  mercilessly  con- 
demned by  history.  Du  Barry  had  the  opportunities  of  the 
Pompadour,  but,  to  her  credit  be  it  said,  that  through- 
out the  whole  of  her  meteoric  career  at  the  Court  of 
Versailles  only  one  lettre-de-cacket  was  issued  by  her. 
Such  magnanimity  of  mind  in  one  who  met  with  such 
universal  abuse  at  the  hands  of  Voltaire  and  others  is  ex- 
ceedingly remarkable.  There  is  a  short  preface  to  the 
Memoirs  couched  in  light  vein. 

;-  Taken  altogether,  this  collection  may  be  said  adequately 
to  represent  the  mission  of  the  memoir-writer,  which  is 
to  illume  and  illustrate  history,  to  give  side  lights  upon 
the  events  that  control  the  destinies  of  nations,  and  to 
enable  posterity  to  judge  rightly  the  motives  that  swayed 
the  great   characters   of  history 


/So^f-^&^^^T^^^^ 


EVELYN'S   DIARY 


THE  two  chief  diarists  of  the  age  of  Charles  the  Second 
are,  mutatis  mutandis,  not  ill  characterized  by  the 
remark  of  a  wicked  wit  upon  the  brothers  Austin. 
"John  Austin,"  it  was  said,  "served  God  and  died  poor: 
Charles  Austin  served  the  devil,  and  died  rich.  Both 
were  clever  fellows.  Charles  was  much  the  cleverer  of 
the  two."  Thus  John  Evelyn  and  Samuel  Pepys,  the 
former  a  perfect  model  of  decorum,  the  latter  a  grievous 
example  of  indecorum,  have  respectively  left  us  diaries, 
of  which  the  indecorous  is  to  the  decorous  as  a  zoological 
garden  is  to  a  museum:  while  the  disparity  between  the 
testamentary  bequests  of  the  two  Austins  but  imperfectly 
represents  the  reputation  standing  to  Pepys's  account  with 
posterity  in  comparison  with  that  accruing  to  his  sedate 
and  dignified  contemporary. 

Museums,  nevertheless,  have  their  uses,  and  Evelyn's 
comparatively  jejune  record  has  laid  us  under  no  small 
obligation.  But  for  Pepys's  amazing  indiscretion  and  gar- 
rulity, qualities  of  which  one  cannot  have  too  little  in  life, 
or  too  much  in  the  record  of  it,  Evelyn  would  have  been 
esteemed  the  first  diarist  of  his  age.  Unable  for  want  of 
these  qualifications  to  draw  any  adequate  picture  of  the 
stirring  life  around  him,  he  has  executed  at  least  one 
portrait  admirably,  his  own.  The  likeness  is,  moreover, 
valuable,  as  there  is  every  reason  to  suppose  it  typical, 
and  representative  of  a  very  important  class  of  society, 
the  well-bred  and  well-conducted  section  of  the  untitled 
aristocracy  of  England.  We  may  well  believe  that  these 
men  were  not  only  the  salt  but  the  substance  of  their 
order.  There  was  an  ill-bred  section  exclusively  devoted 
to  festivity  and  sport.  There  was  an  ill-conducted  sec- 
tion, plunged  into  the  dissipations  of  court  life.  But  the 
majority  were  men  like  Evelyn :  not,  perhaps,  equally  re- 
fined by  culture  and  travel,  or  equally  interested  in 
literary  research  and  scientific  experiment,  but  well 
informed  and  polite ;  no  strangers  to  the  Court,  yet  hardly 


3C  EVELYN'S  DIARY 

to  be  called  courtiers,  and  preferring  country  to  town; 
loyal  to  Church  and  King  but  not  fanatical  or  rancorous; 
as  yet  but  slightly  imbued  with  the  principles  of  civil  and 
religious  liberty,  yet  adverse  to  carry  the  dogma  of  divine 
right  further  than  the  right  of  succession;  fortunate  in 
having  survived  all  ideas  of  serfdom  or  vassalage,  and  in 
having  few  private  interests  not  fairly  reconcilable  with 
the  general  good.  Evelyn  was  made  to  be  the  spokes- 
man of  such  a  class,  and,  meaning  to  speak  only  for  him- 
self, he  delivers  its  mind  concerning  the  Commonwealth  and 
the  Restoration,  the  conduct  of  the  later  Stuart  Kings 
and  the  Revolution. 

Evelyn's  Diary  practically  begins  where  many  think  he 
had  no  business  to  be  diarising,  beyond  the  seas.  The 
position  of  a  loyalist  who  solaces  himself  in  Italy  while 
his  King  is  fighting  for  his  crown  certainly  requires  ex- 
planation: it  may  be  sufficient  apology  for  Evelyn  that 
without  the  family  estates  he  could  be  of  no  great  serv- 
ice to  the  King,  and  that  these,  lying  near  London, 
were  actually  in  the  grasp  of  the  Parliament.  He  was 
also  but  one  of  a  large  family  and  it  was  doubtless  con- 
venient that  one  member  should  be  out  of  harm's  way. 
His  three  years'  absence  (1643-6)  has  certainly  proved 
advantageous  to  posterity.  Evelyn  is,  indeed,  a  mere 
sight-seer,  but  this  renders  his  tour  a  precise  record  of 
the  objects  which  the  sight-seer  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury was  expected  to  note,  and  a  mirror  not  only  of  the 
taste  but  of  the  feeling  of  the  time.  There  is  no  cult 
of  anything,  but  there  is  curiosity  about  everything; 
there  is  no  perception  of  the  sentiment  of  a  landscape, 
but  real  enjoyment  of  the  landscape  itself;  antiquity  is 
not  unappreciated,  but  modern  works  impart  more  real 
pleasure.  Of  the  philosophical  reflections  which  after- 
ward rose  to  the  mind  of  Gibbon  there  is  hardly  a 
vestige,  and  of  course  Evelyn  is  at  an  immeasurable 
distance  from  Byron  and  De  Stael.  But  he  gives  us 
exactly  what  we  want,  the  actual  attitude  of  a  cultivated 
young  Englishman  in  presence  of  classic  and  renais- 
sance art  with  its  background  of  Southern  nature.  We 
may  register  without  undue  self-complacency  a  great 
development  of  the  modern  world  in  the  aesthetical  region 
of  the  intellect,  which  implies  many  other  kinds  of  prog- 
ress.     It  is   interesting  to   compare   with    Evelyn's  nar- 


SPECIAL   INTRODUCTION  xi 

rative  the  chapters  recording  the  visit  to  Italy  supposed 
to  have  been  made  at  this  very  period  by  John  Inglesant, 
who  inevitably  sees  with  the  eyes  of  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury. Evelyn's  casual  remarks  on  foreign  manners  and 
institutions  display  good  sense,  without  extraordinary  in- 
sight; in  description  he  is  frequently  observant  and 
graphic,  as  in  his  account  of  the  galley  slaves,  and  of 
Venetian  female  costumes.  He  naturally  regards  Alpine 
scenery  as  "melancholy  and  troublesome." 

Returned  to  England,  Evelyn  strictly  follows  the  line 
of  the  average  English  country  gentleman,  execrating  the 
execution  of  Charles  I.,  disgusted  beyond  measure  with 
the  suppression  of  the  Church  of  England  service,  but 
submissive  to  the  powers  that  be  until  there  are  evident 
indications  of  a  change,  which  he  promotes  in  anything 
but  a  Quixotic  spirit.  Although  he  is  sincerely  attached 
to  the  monarchy,  the  condition  of  the  Church  is  evidently 
a  matter  of  greater  concern  to  him:  Cromwell  would 
have  done  much  to  reconcile  the  royalists  to  his  govern- 
ment, had  it  been  possible  for  him  to  have  restored  the 
liturgy  and  episcopacy.  The  same  lesson  is  to  be  derived 
from  his  demeanor  during  the  reigns  of  Charles  and 
James.  The  exultation  with  which  the  Restoration  is  at 
first  hailed  soon  evaporates.  The  scandals  of  the  Court 
are  an  offense,  notwithstanding  Evelyn's  personal  attach- 
ment to  the  King.  But  the  chief  point  is  not  vice  or 
favoritism  or  mismanagement,  but  alliances  with  Roman 
Catholic  powers  against  Protestant  nations.  Evelyn  is 
enraged  to  see  Charles  missing  the  part  so  clearly  pointed 
out  to  him  by  Providence  as  the  protector  of  the  Prot- 
estant religion  all  over  Europe.  The  conversion  of  the 
Duke  of  York  is  a  fearful  blow,  James's  ecclesiastical 
policy  after  his  accession  adds  to  Evelyn's  discontent  day 
by  day,  while  political  tyranny  passes  almost  without  re- 
mark. At  last  the  old  cavalier  is  glad  to  welcome  the 
Prince  of  Orange  as  deliverer,  and  though  he  has  no 
enthusiasm  for  William  in  his  character  as  King,  he  re- 
mains his  dutiful  subject.  Just  because  Evelyn  was  by 
no  means  an  extraordinary  person,  he  represents  the 
plain  straightforward  sense  of  the  English  gentry.  The 
questions  of  the  seventeenth  century  were  far  more 
religious  than  political.  The  synthesis  "Church  and 
King "  expressed   the    dearest    convictions    of    the    great 


xii  EVELYN'S'  DIARY 

majority  of  English  country  families,  but  when  the 
two  became  incompatible  they  left  no  doubt  which  held 
the  first  place  in  their  hearts.  They  acted  instinctively 
on  the  principle  of  the  Persian  lady  who  preferred  her 
brother  to  her  husband.  It  was  not  impossible  to  find  a  new 
King,  but  there  was  no  alternative  to  the  English  Church. 
Evelyn's  memoirs  thus  possess  a  value  far  exceed- 
ing the  modest  measure  of  worth  allowed  them  by  De 
Quincey :  '  *  They  are  useful  as  now  and  then  enabling 
one  to  fix  the  date  of  a  particular  event,  but  for  little 
besides."  The  Diary's  direct  contribution  to  historical 
accuracy  is  insignificant;  it  is  an  index,  not  to  chronolog- 
ical minutiae,  but  to  the  general  progress  of  moral  and 
political  improvement.  The  editor  of  1857  certainly  goes 
too  far  in  asserting  that  "  All  that  might  have  been  excluded 
from  the  range  of  his  opinions,  his  feelings  and  sympa- 
thies embraced  ";  but  it  is  interesting  to  observe  the  grad- 
ual widening  of  Evelyn's  sympathies  with  good  men  of 
all  parties,  and  to  find  him  in  his  latter  days  criticising 
the  evidence  produced  in  support  of  the  Popish  Plot  on 
the  one  hand,  and  deploring  the  just  condemnation  of  Al- 
gernon Sydney  on  the  other.  It  is  true  that,  so  far  as  the 
sufferings  of  his  country  are  concerned,  his  attitude  is  rather 
that  of  the  Levite  than  of  the  Samaritan;  but  more  lively 
popular  sympathies  would  have  destroyed  the  peculiar 
value  attaching  to  the  testimony  of  the  reluctant  wit- 
ness. We  should,  for  example,  have  thought  little  of 
such  a  passage  as  the  following  from  the  pen  of  Burnet, 
from  Evelyn  it  is  significant  indeed:  — 

October  14,  1688. —  The  King's  birthday.  No  gfuns  from  the  Tower 
as  usual.  The  sun  eclipsed  at  its  rising.  This  day  signal  for  the  victory  of 
William  the  Conqueror  against  Harold,  near  Battel  in  Sussex.  The 
wind,  which  had  been  hitherto  west,  was  east  all  this  day.  Wonderful 
expectation  of  the  Dutch  fleet.  Public  prayers  ordered  to  be  read  in  the 
churches  against  invasion. 

It  might  be  difficult  to  produce  a  nearer  approxima- 
tion in  secular  literature  to  Daniel's  ^^Mene,  Mene,  Tekel, 
Upharsin." 

There  is  little  else  in  the  Diary  equally  striking,  though 
Evelyn's  description  of  Whitehall  on  the  eve  of  the  death 
of  Charles  the  Second  ranks  among  the  memorable  pas- 
sages of  the  language.  It  is  nevertheless  full  of  inter- 
esting   anecdotes    and    curious    notices,  especially   of   the 


SPECIAL  INTRODUCTION  xiii 

scientific  research  which,  in  default  of  any  adequate  pub- 
lic organization,  was  in  that  age  more  efficaciously  pro- 
moted by  students  than  by  professors.  De  Quincey 
censures  Evelyn  for  omitting  to  record  the  conversation 
of  the  men  with  whom  he  associated,  but  he  does  not 
consider  that  the  Diary  in  its  present  shape  is  a  digest 
of  memoranda  made  long  previously,  and  that  time  failed 
at  one  period  and  memory  at  the  other.  De  Quincey, 
whose  extreme  acuteness  was  commonly  evinced  on  the 
negative  side  of  a  question,  saw  the  weak  points  of  the 
Diar}'^  upon  its  first  publication  much  more  clearly  than 
his  contemporaries  did,  and  was  betrayed  into  illiberality 
by  resentment  at  what  he  thought  its  undeserved  vogue. 
Evelyn  has  in  truth  been  fortunate;  his  record,  which 
his  contemporaries  would  have  neglected,  appeared  (1818) 
just  in  time  to  be  a  precursor  of  the  Anglican  move- 
ment, a  tendency  evinced  in  a  similar  fashion  by  the 
vindication,  no  doubt  mistaken,  of  the  Caroline  authorship 
of  the  "Icon  Basilike."  Evelyn  was  a  welcome  encounter 
to  men  of  this  cast  of  thought,  and  was  hailed  as  a  model 
of  piety,  culture,  and  urbanity,  without  sufificient  consid- 
eration of  his  deficiencies  as  a  loyalist  and  a  patriot.  It 
also  conduced  to  his  reputation  that  all  his  other  writ- 
ings should  have  virtually  perished  except  his  ' '  Sylva, " 
like  his  Diary  a  landmark  in  the  history  of  improvement, 
though  in  a  widely  different  department.  But  for  his 
lack  of  diplomatic  talent,  he  might  be  compared  with  an 
eminent  and  much  applauded,  but  in  our  times  some- 
what decrescent,  contemporary.  Sir  William  Temple.  Both 
these  eminent  persons  would  have  aroused  a  warmer  feeling 
in  posterity,  and  have  effected  more  for  its  instruction 
and  entertainment,  if  they  could  occasionally  have  dashed 
their  dignity  with  an  infusion  of  the  grotesqueness,  we 
will  not  say  of  Pepys,  but  of  Roger  North.  To  them, 
however,  their  dignity  was  their  character,  and  although 
we  could  have  wished  them  a  larger  measure  of  geniality, 
we  must  feel  indebted  to  them  for  their  preservation  of 
a  refined  social  type. 


VOLUME   I. 

1620-1664 


VOLUME   IL 
1665-1706 


(*▼) 


DIARY   OF    JOHN    EVELYN. 


I  WAS  bom  at  Wotton,  in  the  County  of  Surrey,  about 
twenty   minutes   past    two  in    the   morning,    being  on 

Tuesday  the  3 1  St  and  last  of  October,  1620,  after  my  father 
had  been  married  about  seven  years,*  and  that  my  mother 
had  borne  him  three  children ;  viz,  two  daughters  and  one 
son,  about  the  33d  year  of  his  age,  and  the  23d  of  my 
mother's. 

My  father,  named  Richard,  was  of  a  sanguine  com- 
plexion, mixed  with  a  dash  of  choler :  his  hair  inclining  to 
light,  which,  though  exceedingly  thick,  became  hoary  by 
the  time  he  had  attained  to  thirty  years  of  age;  it  was 
somewhat  curled  toward  the  extremities;  his  beard, 
which  he  wore  a  little  peaked,  as  the  mode  was,  of  a 
brownish  color,  and  so  continued  to  the  last,  save  that  it 
was  somewhat  mingled  with  gray  hairs  about  his  cheeks, 
which,  with  his  countenance,  were  clear  and  fresh-colored ; 
his  eyes  extraordinary  quick  and  piercing;  an  ample 
forehead, —  in  sum,  a  very  well-composed  visage  and 
manly  aspect:  for  the  rest,  he  was  but  low  of  stature, 
yet  very  strong.  He  was,  for  his  life,  so  exact  and 
temperate,  that  I  have  heard  he  had  never  been  sur- 
prised by  excess,  being  ascetic  and  sparing.  His  wisdom 
was  great,  and  his  judgment  most  acute;  of  solid  dis- 
course, affable,  humble,  and  in  nothing  affected;  of  a 
thriving,  neat,  silent,  and  methodical  genius,  discreetly 
severe,  yet  liberal  upon  all  just  occasions,  both  to  his 
children,  to  strangers,  and  servants ;  a  lover  of  hospitality ; 
and,  in  brief,  of  a  singfular  and  Christian  moderation  in 
all  his  actions ;  not  illiterate,  nor  obscure,  as,  having  con- 
tinued Justice  of  the  Peace  and  of  the  Quorum,  he 
served  his  country  as  High  Sheriff,  being,   as    I    take   it, 

*He  was  married  at  St.  Thomas's,  Southwark,  27th  January,  1613. 
My  sister  Eliza  was  bom  at  nine  at  night,  28th  November,  1614;  Jane 
at  four  in  the  morning,  i6th  February,  1616;  my  brother  George  at  nine 
at  night,  Wednesday,  i8th  June,  1617;  and  my  brother  Richard,  9th 
November,  1622. —  Note  by  Evelyn. 

I  (I) 


a  DIARY  OP  WOTTON 

the  last  dignified  with  that  office  for  Sussex  and  Surrey- 
together,  the  same  year,  before  their  separation.  He  was 
yet  a  studious  decliner  of  honors  and  titles ;  being  already 
in  that  esteem  with  his  country,  that  they  could  have 
added  little  to  him  besides  their  burden.  He  was  a 
person  of  that  rare  conversation  that,  upon  frequent 
recollection,  and  calling  to  mind  passages  of  his  life  and 
discourse,  I  could  never  charge  him  with  the  least  pas- 
sion, or  inadvertency.  His  estate  was  esteemed  about 
;^4ooo  per  annum,  well  wooded,  and  full  of  timber. 

My  mother's  name  was  Eleanor,  sole  daughter  and 
heiress  of  John  Standsfield,  Esq.,  of  an  ancient  and 
honorable  family  (though  now  extinct)  in  Shropshire,  by 
his  wife  Eleanor  Comber,  of  a  good  and  well-known 
house  in  Sussex.  She  was  of  proper  personage;  of  a 
brown  complexion;  her  eyes  and  hair  of  a  lovely  black; 
of  constitution  more  inclined  to  a  religious  melancholy, 
or  pious  sadness ;  of  a  rare  memory,  and  most  exemplary 
life;  for  economy  and  prudence,  esteemed  one  of  the 
most  conspicuous  in  her  country :  which  rendered  her  loss 
much  deplored,  both  by  those  who  knew,  and  such  as  only 
heard  of  her. 

Thus  much,  in  brief,  touching  my  parents;  nor  was  it 
reasonable  I  should  speak  less  of  them  to  whom  I  owe 
so  much. 

The  place  of  my  birth  was  Wotton,  in  the  parish  of 
Wotton,  or  Blackheath,  in  the  county  of  Surrey,  the 
then  mansion-house  of  my  father,  left  him  by  my  grand- 
father, afterward  and  now  my  eldest  brother's.  It  is 
situated  in  the  most  southern  part  of  the  shire;  and, 
though  in  a  valley,  yet  really  upon  part  of  Leith  Hill, 
one  of  the  most  eminent  in  England  for  the  prodigious 
prospect  to  be  seen  from  its  summit,  though  by  few 
observed.  From  it  may  be  discerned  twelve  or  thirteen 
counties,  with  part  of  the  sea  on  the  coast  of  Sussex,  in 
a  serene  day.  The  house  is  large  and  ancient,  suitable 
to  those  hospitable  times,  and  so  sweetly  environed  with 
those  delicious  streams  and  venerable  woods,  as  in  the 
judgment  of  strangers  as  well  as  Englishmen  it  may  be 
compared  to  one  of  the  most  pleasant  seats  in  the 
nation,  and  most  tempting  for  a  great  person  and  a 
wanton  purse  to  render  it  conspicuous.  It  has  rising 
grounds,  meadows,  woods,  and  water,  in  abundance. 


i620  JOHN   EVELYN  3 

The  distance  from  London  little  more  than  twenty 
miles,  and  yet  so  securely  placed,  as  if  it  were  one  hun- 
dred; three  miles  from  Dorking,  which  serves  it  abun- 
dantly with  provision  as  well  of  land  as  sea;  six  from 
Guildford,  twelve  from  Kingston.  I  will  say  nothing  of 
the  air,  because  the  pre-eminence  is  universally  given  to 
Surrey,  the  soil  being  dry  and  sandy;  but  I  should  speak 
much  of  the  gardens,  fountains,  and  groves  that  adorn 
it,  were  they  not  as  generally  known  to  be  among  the 
most  natural,  and  (till  this  later  and  universal  luxury  of 
the  whole  nation,  since  abounding  in  such  expenses)  the 
most  magnificent  that  England  afforded;  and  which 
indeed  gave  one  of  the  first  examples  to  that  elegancy, 
since  so  much  in  vogue,  and  followed  in  the  managing 
of  their  waters,  and  other  elegancies  of  that  nature. 
Let  me  add,  the  contiguity  of  five  or  six  manors,  the 
patronage  of  the  livings  about  it,  and  what  Themistocles 
pronounced  for  none  of  the  least  advantages  —  the  good 
neighborhood.  All  which  conspire  here  to  render  it  an 
honorable  and  handsome  royalty,  fit  for  the  present  pos- 
sessor, my  worthy  brother,  and  his  noble  lady,  whose 
constant  liberality  gives  them  title  both  to  the  place  and 
the  affections  of  all  that  know  them.  Thus,  with  the 
poet: 

Nescio  qud  natale  solum  dulcedine  cunctos 
Duett,  et  immemores  non  stmt  esse  sut. 

I  had  given  me  the  name  of  my  grandfather,  my 
mother's  father,  who,  together  with  a  sister  of  Sir  Thomas 
Evelyn,  of  Long  Ditton,  and  Mr.  Comber,  a  near  relation 
of  my  mother,  were  my  susceptors.  The  solemnity  (yet 
upon  what  accident  I  know  not,  unless  some  indisposition 
in  me)  was  performed  in  the  dining-room  by  Parson 
Higham,  the  present  incumbent  of  the  parish,  according 
to  the  forms  prescribed  by  the  then  glorious  Church  of 
England. 

I  was  now  (in  regard  to  my  mother's  weakness,  or 
rather  custom  of  persons  of  quality )  put  to  nurse  to  one 
Peter,  a  neighbor's  wife  and  tenant,  of  a  good,  comely, 
brown,  wholesome  complexion,  and  in  a  most  sweet  place 
toward  the  hills,  flanked  with  wood  and  refreshed  with 
streams;  the  affection  to  which  kind  of  solitude  I  sucked 
in   with  my  very  milk.      It    appears,  by  a   note  of   my 


4  DIARY   OF  woTTON 

father's,  that  I  sucked  till    17th   of  January,    1622,    or  at 
least  I  came  not  home  before.* 

1623.  The  very  first  thing  that  I  can  call  to  memory, 
and  from  which  time  forward  I  began  to  observe,  was 
this  year  ( 1623)  my  youngest  brother,  being  in  his  nurse's 
arms,  who,  being  then  two  days  and  nine  months  younger 
than  myself,  was  the  last  child  of  my  dear  parents, 

1624.  I  was  not  initiated  into  any  rudiments  until  near 
four  years  of  age,  and  then  one  Frier  taught  us  at  the 
church-porch  of  Wotton;  and  I  do  perfectly  remember 
the  great  talk  and  stir  about  II  Conde  Gondomar,  now 
Ambassador  from  Spain  (for  near  about  this  time  was 
the  match  of  our  Prince  with  the  Infanta  proposed ) ;  and 
the  effects  of  that  comet,  16 18,  still  working  in  the  pro- 
digious revolutions  now  beginning  in  Europe,  especially 
in  Germany,  whose  sad  commotions  sprang  from  the 
Bohemians'  defection  from  the  Emperor  Matthias;  upon 
which  quarrel  the  Swedes  broke  in,  giving  umbrage  to 
the  rest  of  the  princes,  and  the  whole  Christian  world 
cause  to  deplore  it,  as  never  since  enjoying  perfect  tran- 
quillity. 

1625.  I  was  this  year  (being  the  first  of  the  reign  of 
King  Charles )  sent  by  my  father  to  Lewes,  in  Sussex,  to 
be  with  my  grandfather,  Standsfield,  with  whom  I  passed 
my  childhood.  This  was  the  year  in  which  the  pestilence 
was  so  epidemical,  that  there  died  in  London  5,000  a  week, 
and  I  well  remember  the  strict  watches  and  examinations 
upon  the  ways  as  we  passed;  and  I  was  shortly  after  so 
dangerously  sick  of  a  fever  that  (as  I  have  heard)  the 
physicians  despaired  of  me. 

1626.  My  picture  was  drawn  in  oil  by  one  Chanterell, 
no  ill  painter. 

1627.  My  grandfather,  Standsfield,  died  this  year,  on 
the  5th  of  February :  I  remember  perfectly  the  solemnity 
at  his  funeral.  He  was  buried  in  the  parish  church  of 
All  Souls,  where  my  grandmother,  his  second  wife,  erected 
him  a  pious  monument.     About   this  time,  was  the  con- 

*  The  whole  of  this  passage,  so  characteristic  of  the  writer's  tastes 
and  genius,  and  both  the  paragraphs  before  and  after  it,  are  printed  for 
the  first  time  in  this  edition.  Portions  of  the  preceding  description  of 
Wotton  are  also  first  taken  from  the  origfinal ;  and  it  may  not  be  out  of 
place  to  add  that,  more  especially  in  the  first  fifty  pages  of  this  volume, 
a  very  large  number  of  curious  and  interesting  additions  are  made  to 
Evelyn's  text  from  the  Manuscript  of  the  Diary  at  Wotton, 


1623-32  JOHN   EVELYN  5 

secration  of  the  Church  of  South  Mailing,  near  Lewes, 
by  Dr.  Field,  Bishop  of  Oxford  (one  Mr.  Coxhall  preached, 
who  was  afterward  minister);  the  building  whereof  was 
chiefly  procured  by  my  grandfather,  who  having  the  im- 
propriation, gave  ^20  a  year  out  of  it  to  this  church.  I 
afterward  sold  the  impropriation.  I  laid  one  of  the  first 
stones  at  the  building  of  the  church. 

1628-30.  It  was  not  till  the  year  1628,  that  I  was  put 
to  learn  my  Latin  rudiments,  and  to  write,  of  one  Citolin, 
a  Frenchman,  in  Lewes.  I  very  well  remember  that 
general  muster  previous  to  the  Isle  of  Rhfe's  expedition, 
and  that  I  was  one  day  awakened  in  the  morning  with 
the  news  of  the  Duke  of  Buckingham  being  slain  by  that 
wretch,  Felton,  after  our  disgrace  before  La  Rochelle. 
And  I  now  took  so  extraordinary  a  fancy  to  drawing  and 
designing,  that  I  could  never  after  wean  my  inclinations 
from  it,  to  the  expense  of  much  precious  time,  which 
might  have  been  more  advantageously  employed.  I  was 
now  put  to  school  to  one  Mr.  Potts,  in  the  Cliff  at  Lewes, 
from  whom,  on  the  7th  of  January,  1630,  being  the  day 
after  Epiphany,  I  went  to  the  free-school  at  Southover, 
near  the  town,  of  which  one  Agnes  Morley  had  been  the 
foundress,  and  now  Edward  Snatt  was  the  master,  under 
whom  I  remained  till  I  was  sent  to  the  University.*  This 
year,  my  grandmother  (with  whom  I  sojourned)  being 
married  to  one  Mr.  Newton,  a  learned  and  most  religious 
gentleman,  we  went  from  the  Cliff  to  dwell  at  his  house 
in  Southover.  I  do  most  perfectly  remember  the  jubilee 
which  was  universally  expressed  for  the  happy  birth  of 
the  Prince  of  Wales,  29th  of  May,  now  Charles  II.,  our 
most  gracious  Sovereign. 

1 63 1.  There  happened  now  an  extraordinary  dearth  in 
England,  corn  bearing  an  excessive  price;  and,  in  imita- 
tion of  what  I  had  seen  my  father  do,  I  began  to  observe 
matters  more  punctually,  which  I  did  use  to  set  down  in 
a  blank  almanac.  The  Lord  of  Castlehaven's  arraign- 
ment for  many  shameful  exorbitances  was  now  all  the  talk, 
and  the  birth  of  the  Princess  Mary,  afterward  Princess  of 
Orange. 

2ist  October,  1632.  My  eldest  sister  was  married  to 
Edward  Darcy,   Esq.,  who  little  deserved  so   excellent   a 

*  Long  afterward,  Evelyn  was  in  the  habit  of  paying  g^eat  respect 
to  his  old  teacher. 


6  DIARY  OP  woTTON 

person,  a  woman  of  so  rare  virtue.  I  was  not  present 
at  the  nuptials;  but  I  was  soon  afterward  sent  for  into 
Surrey,  and  my  father  would  willingly  have  weaned  me 
from  my  fondness  of  my  too  indulgent  grandmother,  in- 
tending to  have  placed  me  at  Eton ;  but,  not  being  so  prov- 
ident for  my  own  benefit,  and  unreasonably  terrified  with 
the  report  of  the  severe  discipline  there,  I  was  sent  back 
to  Lewes;  which  perverseness  of  mine  I  have  since  a 
thousand  times  deplored.  This  was  the  first  time  that 
ever  my  parents  had  seen  all  their  children  together  in 
prosperity.  While  I  was  now  trifling  at  home,  I  saw  Lon- 
don, where  I  lay  one  night  only.  The  next  day,  I  dined 
at  Beddington,  where  I  was  much  delighted  with  the 
gardens  and  curiosities.  Thence,  we  returned  to  the  Lady 
Darcy's,  at  Sutton;  thence  to  Wotton;  and,  on  the  i6th 
of  August  following,  1633,  back  to  Lewes. 

3d  November,  1633.  This  year  my  father  was  ap- 
pointed Sheriff,  the  last,  as  I  think,  who  served  in  that 
honorable  office  for  Surrey  and  Sussex,  before  they  were 
disjoined.  He  had  116  servants  in  liveries,  every  one 
liveried  in  green  satin  doublets;  divers  gentlemen  and 
persons  of  quality  waited  on  him  in  the  same  garb  and 
habit,  which  at  that  time  (when  thirty  or  forty  was  the 
usual  retinue  of  the  High  Sheriff)  was  esteemed  a  great 
matter.  Nor  was  this  out  of  the  least  vanity  that  my 
father  exceeded  (who  was  one  of  the  greatest  decliners 
of  it) ;  but  because  he  could  not  refuse  the  civility  of 
his  friends  and  relations,  who  voluntarily  came  them- 
selves, or  sent  in  their  servants.  But  my  father  was 
afterward  most  unjustly  and  spitefully  molested  by  that 
jeering  judge,  Richardson,  for  reprieving  the  execution 
of  a  woman,  to  gratify  my  Lord  of  Lindsey,  then  Ad- 
miral: but  out  of  this  he  emerged  with  as  much  honor 
as  trouble.  The  king  made  this  year  his  progress  into 
Scotland,  and  Duke  James  was  born. 

15th  December,  1634:  My  dear  sister,  Darcy,  departed 
this  life,  being  arrived  to  her  20th  year  of  age;  in  virtue 
advanced  beyond  her  years,  or  the  merit  of  her  husband, 
the  worst  of  men.  She  had  been  brought  to  bed  the 
2d  of  June  before,  but  the  infant  died  soon  after  her, 
the  24th  of  December.  I  was  therefore  sent  for  home 
the  second  time,  to  celebrate  the  obsequies  of  my  sister; 
who  was  interred  in   a   very   honorable    manner    in    our 


1633-35  JOHN  EVELYN  7 

dormitory  joining  to  the  parish  church,  where  now  her 
monument  stands. 

1635.  But  my  dear  mother  being  now  dangerously 
sick,  I  was,  on  the  3d  of  September  following,  sent  for 
to  Wotton.  Whom  I  found  so  far  spent,  that,  all  human 
assistance  failing,  she  in  a  most  heavenly  manner  de- 
parted this  life  upon  the  29th  of  the  same  month,  about 
eight  in  the  evening  of  Michaelmas-day.  It  was  a  ma- 
lignant fever  which  took  her  away,  about  the  37th  of  her 
age,  and  2  2d  of  her  marriage,  to  our  irreparable  loss 
and  the  regret  of  all  that  knew  her.  Certain  it  is,  that 
the  visible  cause  of  her  indisposition  proceeded  from 
grief  upon  the  loss  of  her  daughter,  and  the  infant  that 
followed  it;  and  it  is  as  certain,  that  when  she  per- 
ceived the  peril  whereto  its  excess  had  engaged  her,  she 
strove  to  compose  herself  and  allay  it ;  but  it  was  too  late, 
and  she  was  forced  to  succumb.  Therefore  summoning  all 
her  children  then  living  (I  shall  never  forget  it),  she  ex- 
pressed herself  in  a  manner  so  heavenly,  with  instructions 
so  pious  and  Christian,  as  made  us  strangely  sensible  of 
the  extraordinary  loss  then  imminent;  after  which,  em- 
bracing every  one  of  us  she  gave  to  each  a  ring  with 
her  blessing  and  dismissed  us.  Then,  taking  my  father 
by  the  hand,  she  recommended  us  to  his  care;  and,  be- 
cause she  was  extremely  zealous  for  the  education  of  my 
younger  brother,  she  requested  my  father  that  he  might 
be  sent  with  me  to  Lewes;  and  so  having  importuned 
him  that  what  he  designed  to  bestow  on  her  funeral,  he 
would  rather  dispose  among  the  poor,  she  labored  to 
compose  herself  for  the  blessed  change  which  she  now 
expected.  There  was  not  a  servant  in  the  house  whom 
she  did  not  expressly  send  for,  advise,  and  infinitely  af- 
fect with  her  counsel.  Thus  she  continued  to  employ 
her  intervals,  either  instructing  her  relations,  or  prepar- 
ing of  herself. 

Though  her  physicians,  Dr.  Meverell,  Dr.  Clement, 
and  Dr.  Rand,  had  given  over  all  hopes  of  her  recovery, 
and  Sir  Sanders  Duncombe  had  tried  his  celebrated  and 
famous  powder,  yet  she  was  many  days  impairing,  and 
endured  the  sharpest  conflicts  of  her  sickness  with  ad- 
mirable patience  and  most  Christian  resig^nation,  retain- 
ing both  her  intellectuals  and  ardent  affections  for  her 
dissolution,  to  the  very  article  of  her   departure.     When 


8  DIARY   OF  OXFORD 

near  her  dissolution,  she  laid  her  hand  on  every  one  of 
her  children ;  and  taking-  solemn  leave  of  my  father,  with 
elevated  heart  and  eyes,  she  quietly  expired,  and  resigned 
her  soul  to  God.  Thus  ended  that  prudent  and  pious 
woman,  in  the  flower  of  her  age,  to  the  inconsolable  af- 
fliction of  her  husband,  irreparable  loss  of  her  children, 
and  universal  regret  of  all  that  knew  her.  She  was 
interred,  as  near  as  might  be,  to  her  daughter  Darcy, 
the  3d  of  October,  at  night,  but  with  no  mean  cere- 
mony. 

It  was  the  3d  of  the  ensuing  November,  after  my 
brother  George  was  gone  back  to  Oxford,  ere  I  returned 
to  Lewes,  when  I  made  way,  according  to  instructions 
received  of  my  father,  for  my  brother  Richard,  who  was 
sent  the  12th   after. 

1636.  This  year  being  extremely  dry,  the  pestilence 
much  increased  in  London,  and  divers  parts  of  England. 

13th  February,  1637:  I  was  especially  admitted  (and, 
as  I  remember,  my  other  brother)  into  the  Middle  Tem- 
ple, London,  though  absent,  and  as  yet  at  school.  There 
were  now  large  contributions  to  the  distressed  Palatinates. 

The  loth  of  December  my  father  sent  a  servant  to 
bring  us  necessaries,  and  the  plague  beginning-  now  to 
cease,  on  the  3d  of  April,  1637,  I  left  school,  where, 
till  about  the  last  year,  I  have  been  extremely  remiss  in 
my  studies ;  so  as  I  went  to  the  University  rather  out  of 
shame  of  abiding  longer  at  school,  than  for  any  fitness, 
as  by  sad  experience  I  found:  which  put  me  to  re-learn 
all  that  I  had  neglected,  or  but  perfunctorily  gained. 

loth  May,  1637.  I  was  admitted  a  Fellow-commoner  of 
Baliol  College,  Oxford;  and,  on  the  29th,  I  was  matricul- 
ated in  the  vestry  of  St.  Mary's,  where  I  subscribed  the 
Articles,  and  took  the  oaths:  Dr.  Baily,  head  of  St.  John's, 
being  vice-chancellor,  afterward  bishop.  It  appears  by 
a  letter  of  my  father's,  that  he  was  upon  treaty  with  one 
Mn  Bathurst  (afterward  Doctor  and  President),  of  Trin- 
ity College,  who  should  have  been  my  tutor;  but,  lest 
my  brother's  tutor,  Dr.  Hobbs,  more  zealous  in  his  life 
than  industrious  to  his  pupils,  should  receive  it  as  an 
affront,  and  especially  for  that  Fellow-commoners  in 
Baliol  were  no  more  exempt  from  exercise  than  the 
meanest  scholars  there,  my  father  sent  me  thither  to  one 
Mr.  George  Bradshaw  ( yiomen  invisufnf  yet  the  son  of  an 


1636  JOHN  EVELYN  9 

excellent  father,  beneficed  in  Surrey).  I  ever  thought 
my  tutor  had  parts  enough;  but  as  his  ambition  made 
him  much  suspected  of  the  College,  so  his  grudge  to  Dr. 
Lawrence,  the  governor  of  it  (whom  he  afterward  sup- 
planted), took  up  so  much  of  his  time,  that  he  seldom  or 
never  had  the  opportunity  to  discharge  his  duty  to  his 
scholars.  This  I  perceiving,  associated  myself  with  one 
Mr.  James  Thicknesse  (then  a  young  man  of  the  founda- 
tion, afterward  a  Fellow  of  the  house),  by  whose  learned 
and  friendly  conversation  I  received  great  advantage. 
At  my  first  arrival,  Dr.  Parkhurst  was  master:  and  after 
his  decease,  Dr.  Lawrence,  a  chaplain  of  his  Majesty's 
and  Margaret  Professor,  succeeded,  an  acute  and  learned 
person;  nor  do  I  much  reproach  his  severity,  consider- 
ing that  the  extraordinary  remissness  of  discipline  had 
(till  his  coming)  much  detracted  from  the  reputation  of 
that  College. 

There  came  in  my  time  to  the  College  one  Nathaniel 
Conopios,  out  of  Greece,  from  Cyrill,  the  patriarch  of  Con- 
stantinople, who,  returning  many  years  after,  was  made  (as 
I  understand)  Bishop  of  Smyrna.  He  was  the  first  I  ever 
saw  drink  coffee;  which  custom  came  not  into  England 
till  thirty  years  after.* 

After  I  was  somewhat  settled  there  in  my  formalities 
(for  then  was  the  University  exceedingly  regular,  under 
the  exact  discipline  of  William  Laud,  Archbishop  of  Can- 
terbury, then  Chancellor),  I  added,  as  benefactor  to  the 
library  of  the  College,  these  books  — *^  ex  dono  Johannis 
Evelyni,  hujus  Coll.  Socio- Contmensalis,  filii  Richardi  Eve- 
lyni^  i  com.  Surrics,  armig''.^^ — 

^•'•Zanchii  Opera,'*'*  vols,  i,  2,  3. 

"-Granado  in   Thomam  Aquinatem.,'*'*  vols,  i,  2,  3. 

*•*■  Novarini Electa  Sacra,^^  and  ^-^Cresolii  Anthologia  Sacra'' ; 
authors,  it  seems,  much  desired  by  the  students  of  divinity 
there. 

Upon  the  2d  of  July,  being  the  first  Sunday  of  the 
month,  I  first  received  the  blessed  Sacrament  of  the  Lord's 
Supper  in  the  college  chapel,  one  Mr.  Cooper,  a  Fellow 
of  the  house,  preaching;  and  at  this  time  was  the  Church 
of  England  in  her  greatest  splendor,  all  things  decent, 
and  becoming  the  Peace,  and  the  persons  that  governed. 

*  Evelyn  should  have  said  « till  twenty  years  after,*  not  thirty.  Coffee 
was  introduced  into  England,  and  coffee-houses  set  up,  in  1658. 


lO  DIARY    OF  PORTSMOUTH 

The  most  of  the  following  week  I  spent  in  visiting  the 
Colleges,  and  several  rarities  of  the  University,  which  do 
very  much  affect  young  comers. 

i8th  July,  1637.  I  accompanied  my  eldest  brother,  who 
then  quitted  Oxford,  into  the  country ;  and,  on  the  9th  of 
August,  went  to  visit  my  friends  at  Lewes,  whence  I  re- 
turned the  1 2  th  to  Wotton.  On  the  17  th  of  September, 
I  received  the  blessed  Sacrament  at  Wotton  church,  and 
23d  of    October  went  back  to  Oxford. 

5th  November,  1637.  I  received  again  the  Holy  Com- 
munion in  our  college  chapel,  one  Prouse,  a  Fellow  (but 
a  mad  one),  preaching. 

9th  December,  1637.  I  off ered  at  my  first  exercise  in  the 
Hall,  and  answered  my  opponent;  and,  upon  the  nth  fol- 
lowing, declaimed  in  the  chapel  before  the  Master,  Fel- 
lows, and  Scholars,  according  to  the  custom.  The  15  th 
after,  I  first  of  all  opposed  in  the  Hall, 

The  Christmas  ensuing,  being  at  a  Comedy  which  the 
gentlemen  of  Exeter  College  presented  to  the  University, 
and  standing,  for  the  better  advantage  of  seeing,  upon  a 
table  in  the  Hall,  which  was  near  to  another,  in  the  dark, 
being  constrained  by  the  extraordinary  press  to  quit  my 
station,  in  leaping  down  to  save  myself  I  dashed  my  right 
leg  with  such  violence  against  the  sharp  edge  of  the  other 
board,  as  gave  me  a  hurt  which  held  me  in  cure  till  almost 
Easter,  and  confined  me  to  my  study. 

22d  January,  1638.  I  would  needs  be  admitted  into 
the  dancing  and  vaulting  schools;  of  which  late  activity 
one  Stokes,  the  master,  did  afterward  set  forth  a  pretty 
book,  which  was  published,  with  many  witty  elogfies  be- 
fore it. 

4th  February,  1638.  One  Mr.  Wariner  preached  in  our 
chapel;  and,  on  the  25th,  Mr.  Wentworth,  a  kinsman  of 
the  Earl  of  Strafford;  after  which  followed  the  blessed 
Sacrament. 

13th  April,  1638.  My  father  ordered  that  I  should  be- 
gin to  manage  my  own  expenses,  which  till  then  my 
tutor  had  done;  at  which  I  was  much  satisfied. 

9th  July,  1638.  I  went  home  to  visit  my  friends,  and,  on 
the  26th,  with  my  brother  and  sister  to  Lewes,  where 
we  abode  till  the  31st;  and  thence  to  one  Mr.  Michael's,  of 
Houghton,  near  Arundel,  where  we  were  very  well  treated; 
and,    on  the    2d  of   August,   to  Portsmouth,  and   thence. 


1637-40  JOHN  EVELYN  u 

I 

having  surveyed  the  fortifications  (a  great  rarity  in  that 
blessed  halcyon  time  in  England),  we  passed  into  the 
Isle  of  Wight,  to  the  house  of  my  Lady  Richards,  in  a 
place  called  Yaverland ;  but  were  turned  the  following  day 
to  Chichester,  where,  having  viewed  the  city  and  fair 
cathedral,  we  returned  home. 

About  the  beginning  of  September,  I  was  so  afflicted 
with  a  quartan  ague,  that  I  could  by  no  means  get  rid 
of  it  till  the  December  following.  This  was  the  fatal 
year  wherein  the  rebellious  Scots  opposed  the  King,  upon 
the  pretense  of  the  introduction  of  some  new  ceremonies 
and  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer,  and  madly  began  our 
confusions,  and  their  own  destruction,  too,  as  it  proved 
in  event. 

14th  January,  1639.  I  came  back  to  Oxford,  after  my 
tedious  indisposition,  and  to  the  infinite  loss  of  my  time ; 
and  now  I  began  to  look  upon  the  rudiments  of  music, 
in  which  I  afterward  arrived  to  some  formal  knowledge, 
though  to  small  perfection  of  hand,  because  I  was  so 
frequently  diverted  with  inclinations  to  newer  trifles. 

20th  May,  1639.  Accompanied  with  one  Mr.  J.  Crafford 
(who  afterward  being  my  fellow-traveler  in  Italy,  there 
changed  his  religion),  I  took  a  journey  of  pleasure  to  see 
the  Somersetshire  baths,  Bristol,  Cirencester,  Malmes- 
bury,  Abington,  and  divers  other  towns  of  lesser  note; 
and  returned  the  25th. 

8th  October,   1639.     I  went  back  to  Oxford. 

14th  December,  1639,  According  to  injunctions  from  the 
Heads  of  Colleges,  I  went  (among  the  rest)  to  the  Con- 
firmation at  St.  Mary's,  where,  after  sermon,  the  Bishop 
of  Oxford  laid  his  hands  upon  us,  with  the  usual  form 
of  benediction  prescribed:  but  this  received  (I  fear)  for 
the  more  part  out  of  curiosity,  rather  than  with  that  due 
preparation  and  advice  which  had  been  requisite,  could 
not  be  so  effectual  as  otherwise  that  admirable  and  use- 
ful institution  might  have  been,  and  as  I  have  since  de- 
plored it. 

2 1  St  January,  1640.  Came  my  brother,  Richard,  from 
school,  to  be  my  chamber-fellow  at  the  University.  He 
was  admitted  the  next  day  and  matriculated  the  31st. 

nth  April,  1640.  I  went  to  London  to  see  the  solemn- 
ity of  his  Majesty's  riding  through  the  city  in  state  to  the 
Short  Parliament,  which  began  the  13th  following, —  a  very 


12  DIARY    OF  LONDON 

• 

glorious  and  magnificent  sight,  the  King  circled  with  his 
royal  diadem  and  the  affections  of  his  people:  but  the 
day  after  I  returned  to  Wotton  again,  where  I  stayed, 
my  father's  indisposition  suffering  great  intervals,  till 
April  27th,  when  I  was  sent  to  London  to  be  first  resi- 
dent at  the  Middle  Temple:  so  as  my  being  at  the  Uni- 
versity, in  regard  of  these  avocations,  was  of  very  small 
benefit  to  me.  Upon  May  the  5th  following,  was  the 
Parliament  unhappily  dissolved;  and,  on  the  20th  I  re- 
turned with  my  brother  George  to  Wotton,  who,  on  the 
28th  of  the  same  month,  was  married  at  Albury  to  Mrs. 
Caldwell  (an  heiress  of  an  ancient  Leicestershire  family, 
where  part  of  the  nuptials  were  celebrated). 

loth  June,  1640.  I  repaired  with  my  brother  to  the 
term,  to  go  into  our  new  lodgings  (that  were  formerly  in 
Essex-court),  being  a  very  handsome  apartment  just  over 
against  the  Hall-court,  but  four  pair  of  stairs  high,  which 
gave  us  the  advantage  of  the  fairer  prospect ;  but  did  not 
much  contribute  to  the  love  of  that  impolished  study,  to 
which  (I  suppose)  my  father  had  designed  me,  when  he 
paid  ;j^i45  to  purchase  our  present  lives,  and  assignments 
afterward. 

.  London,  and  especially  the  Court,  were  at  this  period 
in  frequent  disorders,  and  great  insolences  were  com- 
mitted by  the  abused  and  too  happy  City:  in  particular, 
the  Bishop  of  Canterbury's  Palace  at  Lambeth  was  as- 
saulted by  a  rude  rabble  from  Southwark,  my  Lord 
Chamberlain  imprisoned  and  many  scandalous  libels  and 
invectives  scattered  about  the  streets,  to  the  reproach  of 
Government,  and  the  fermentation  of  our  since  distrac- 
tions: so  that,  upon  the  25th  of  June,  I  was  sent  for  to 
Wotton,  and  the  27th  after,  my  father's  indisposition 
augmenting,  by  advice  of  the  physicians  he  repaired  to 
the  Bath. 

7th  July,  1640.  My  brother  George  and  I,  understanding 
the  peril  my  father  was  in  upon  a  sudden  attack  of  his 
infirmity,  rode  post  from  Guildford  toward  him,  and  found 
him  extraordinary  weak;  yet  so  as  that,  continuing  his 
course,  he  held  out  till  the  8th  of  September,  when  I  re- 
turned home  with  him  in  his  litter. 

15th  October,  1640.  I  went  to  the  Temple,  it  being 
Michaelmas  Term. 

30th  December,  1640.     I  saw  his  Majesty  (coming  from 


1640-41  JOHN  EVELYN  13 

his  Northern  Expedition)  ride  in  pomp  and  a  kind  of 
ovation,  with  all  the  marks  of  a  happy  peace,  restored  to 
the  affections  of  his  people,  being  conducted  through 
London  with  a  most  splendid  cavalcade;  and  on  the  3d 
of  November  following  (a  day  never  to  be  mentioned 
without  a  curse),  to  that  long  ungrateful,  foolish,  and 
fatal  Parliament,  the  beginning  of  all  our  sorrows  for 
twenty  years  after,  and  the  period  of  the  most  happy 
monarch   in   the   world :  Quis  talia  fando ! 

But  my  father  being  by  this  time  entered  into  a 
dropsy,  an  indisposition  the  most  unsuspected,  being  a 
person  so  exemplarily  temperate,  and  of  admirable 
regimen,  hastened  me  back  to  Wotton,  December  the 
1 2th ;  where,  the  24th  following,  between  twelve  and  one 
o'clock  at  noon,  departed  this  life  that  excellent  man 
and  indulgent  parent,  retaining  his  senses  and  piety 
to  the  last,  which  he  most  tenderly  expressed  in 
blessing  us,  whom  he  now  left  to  the  world  and  the 
worst  of  times,  while  he  was  taken  from  the  evil  to 
come. 

1 64 1.  It  was  a  sad  and  lugubrious  beginning  of  the 
year,  when  on  the  2d  of  January,  1 640-1,  we  at  night 
followed  the  mourning  hearse  to  the  church  at  Wotton; 
when,  after  a  sermon  and  funeral  oration  by  the  minister, 
my  father  was  interred  near  his  formerly  erected  monu- 
ment, and  mingled  with  the  ashes  of  our  mother,  his 
dear  wife.  Thus  we  were  bereft  of  both  our  parents  in 
a  period  when  we  most  of  all  stood  in  need  of  their 
counsel  and  assistance,  especially  myself,  of  a  raw,  vain, 
uncertain,  and  very  unwary  inclination :  but  so  it  pleased 
God  to  make  trial  of  my  conduct  in  a  conjuncture  of 
the  greatest  and  most  prodigious  hazard  that  ever  the 
youth  of  England  saw;  and,  if  I  did  not  amidst  all  this 
impeach  my  liberty  nor  my  virtue  with  the  rest  who 
made  shipwreck  of  both,  it  was  more  the  infinite  good- 
ness and  mercy  of  God  than  the  least  providence  or 
discretion  of  mine  own,  who  now  thought  of  nothing 
but  the  pursuit  of  vanity,  and  the  confused  imaginations 
of  young  men. 

15th  April,  1 641.  I  repaired  to  London  to  hear  and  see 
the  famous  trial  of  the  Earl  of  Strafford,  Lord- Deputy  of 
Ireland,  who,  on  the  2 2d  of  March,  had  been  summoned 
before  both  Houses  of  Parliament,  and  now  appeared  in 


14  DIARY  OF  LONDON 

Westminster-hall,*  which  was  prepared  with  scaffolds  for 
the  Lords  and  Commons,  who,  tog-ether  with  the  King, 
Queen,  Prince,  and  flower  of  the  noblesse,  were  specta- 
tors and  auditors  of  the  greatest  malice  and  the  greatest 
innocency  that  ever  met  before  so  illustrous  an  assembly. 
It  was  Thomas,  Earl  of  Arundel  and  Surrey,  Earl 
Marshal  of  England,  who  was  made  High  Steward  upon 
this  occasion;  and  the  sequel  is  too  well  known  to  need 
any  notice  of  the  event. 

On  the  27th  of  April,  came  over  out  of  Holland  the 
young  Prince  of  Orange,  with  a  splendid  equipage,  to 
make  love  to  his  Majesty's  eldest  daughter,  the  now 
Princess  Royal. 

That  evening,  was  celebrated  the  pompous  funeral  of 
the  Duke  of  Richmond,  who  was  carried  in  effigy,  with 
all  the  ensigns  of  that  illustrious  family,  in  an  open 
chariot,  in  great  solemnity,  through  London  to  West- 
minster Abbey. 

On  the  12th  of  May,  I  beheld  on  Tower-hill  the  fatal 
stroke  which  severed  the  wisest  head  in  England  from 
the  shoulders  of  the  Earl  of  Strafford,  whose  crime  com- 
ing under  the  cognizance  of  no  human  law  or  statute,  a 
new  one  was  made,  not  to  be  a  precedent,  but  his  de- 
struction. With  what  reluctancy  the  King  signed  the 
execution,  he  has  sufficiently  expressed;  to  which  he 
imputes  his  own  unjust  suffering — to  such  exorbitancy 
were  things  arrived. 

On  the  24th  of  May,  I  returned  to  Wotton ;  and,  on  the 
28th  of  June,  I  went  to  London  with  my  sister,  Jane, 
and  the  day  after  sat  to  one  Vanderborcht  for  my  picture 
in  oil,  at  Arundel-house,  whose  servant  that  excellent 
painter  was,  brought  out  of  Germany  when  the  Earl 
returned  from  Vienna  ( whither  he  was  sent  Ambassador- 
extraordinary,  with  great  pomp  and  charge,  though  with- 

*0n  the  15th  of  April  Strafford  made  his  eloquent  defense,  which 
it  seems  to  have  been  Evelyn's  good  fortune  to  be  present  at.  And 
here  the  reader  may  remark  the  fact,  not  without  significance,  that 
between  the  entries  on  this  page  of  the  Diary  which  relate  to  Lord 
Strafford,  the  young  Prince  of  Orange  came  over  to  make  love  to 
the  Princess  Royal,  then  twelve  years  old;  and  that  the  marriage 
was  subsequently  celebrated  amid  extraordinary  Court  rejoicings  and 
festivities,  in  which  the  King  took  a  prominent  part,  during  the  short 
interval  which  elapsed  between  the  sentence  and  execution  of  the 
King's  great  and  unfortunate  minister. 


1641  JOHN  EVELYN  15 

out  any  effect,  through  the  artifice  of  the  Jesuited  Spaniard 
who  governed  all  in  that  conjuncture ).  With  Vander- 
borcht,  the  painter,  he  brought  over  Winceslaus  Hollar, 
the  sculptor,  who  engraved  not  only  the  unhappy  Deputy's 
trial  in  Westminster-hall,  but  his  decapitation;  as  he  did 
several  other  historical  things,  then  relating  to  the  acci- 
dents happening  during  the  Rebellion  in  England,  with 
great  skill;  besides  many  cities,  towns,  and  landscapes, 
not  only  of  this  nation,  but  of  foreign  parts,  and  divers 
portraits  of  famous  persons  then  in  being;  and  things 
designed  from  the  best  pieces  of  the  rare  paintings  and 
masters  of  which  the  Earl  of  Arundel  was  possessor, 
purchased  and  collected  in  his  travels  with  incredible 
expense:  so  as,  though  Hollar's  were  but  etched  in 
aquafortis,  I  account  the  collection  to  be  the  most 
authentic  and  useful  extant.  Hollar  was  the  son  of  a 
gentleman  near  Prague,  in  Bohemia,  and  my  very  good 
friend,  perverted  at  last  by  the  Jesuits  at  Antwerp  to 
change  his  religion;  a  very  honest,  simple,  well-meaning 
man,  who  at  last  came  over  again  into  England,  where 
he  died.  We  have  the  whole  history  of  the  king's  reign, 
from  his  trial  in  Westminster-hall  and  before,  to  the 
restoration  of  King  Charles  H.,  represented  in  several 
sculptures,  with  that  also  of  Archbishop  Laud,  by  this 
indefatigable  artist;  besides  innumerable  sculptures  in 
the  works  of  Dugdale,  Ashmole,  and  other  historical 
and  useful  works.  I  am  the  more  particular  upon  this 
for  the  fruit  of  that  collection,  which  I  wish  I  had 
entire. 

This  picture*  I  presented  to  my  sister,  being  at  her 
request,  on  my  resolution  to  absent  myself  from  this  ill 
face  of  things  at  home,  which  gave  umbrage  to  wiser 
than  myself  that  the  medal  was  reversing,  and  our  calam- 
ities but  yet  in  their  infancy:  so  that,  on  the  15th  of 
July,  having  procured  a  pass  at  the  Custom-house,  where 
I  repeated  my  oath  of  allegiance,  I  went  from  London 
to  Gravesend,  accompanied  with  one  Mr.  Caryll,  a  Sur- 
rey gentleman,  and  our  servants,  where  we  arrived  by 
six  o'clock  that  evening,  with  a  purpose  to  take  the  first 
opportunity  of  a  passage  for  Holland.  But  the  wind  as 
yet  not  favorable,  we  had  time  to  view  the  Block-house 
of  that  town,  which  answered  to  another  over  against  it 

*His  own  portrait 


i6  DIARY   OF  DE  VERE 

at  Tilbury,  famous  for  the  rendezvous  of  Queen  Eliza- 
beth, in  the  year  1588,  which  we  found  stored  with 
twenty  pieces  of  cannon,  and  other  ammunition  propor- 
tionable. On  the  19th  of  July,  we  made  a  short  excur- 
sion to  Rochester,  and  having  seen  the  cathedral  went 
to  Chatham  to  see  the  Royal  Sovereign,  a  glorious  vessel 
of  burden  lately  built  there,  being  for  defense  and  orna- 
ment, the  richest  that  ever  spread  cloth  before  the  wind. 
She  carried  an  hundred  brass  cannon,  and  was  1,200  tons; 
a  rare  sailer,  the  work  of  the  famous  Phineas  Pett,  in- 
ventor of  the  frigate-fashion  of  building,  to  this  day 
practiced.  But  what  is  to  be  deplored  as  to  this  vessel 
is,  that  it  cost  his  Majesty  the  affections  of  his  subjects, 
perverted  by  the  malcontent  of  great  ones,  who  took  occa- 
sion to  quarrel  for  his  having  raised  a  very  slight  tax 
for  the  building  of  this,  and  equipping  the  rest  of  the 
navy,  without  an  act  of  Parliament;  though,  by  the  suf- 
frages of  the  major  part  of  the  Judges  the  King  might 
legally  do  in  times  of  imminent  danger,  of  which  his 
Majesty  was  best  apprised.  But  this  not  satisfying  a 
jealous  party,  it  was  condemned  as  unprecedented,  and 
not  justifiable  as  to  the  Royal  prerogative;  and,  accord- 
ingly, the  Judges  were  removed  out  of  their  places,  fined, 
and  imprisoned.* 

We  returned  again  this  evening,  and  on  the  21st  of  July 
embarked  in  a  Dutch  frigate,  bound  for  Flushing,  con- 
voyed and  accompanied  by  five  other  stout  vessels,  where- 
of one  was  a  man-of-war.  The  next  day  at  noon,  we 
landed  at '  Flushing. 

Being  desirous  to  overtake  the  Leagure,f  which  was 
then  before  Genep,  ere  the  summer  should  be  too  far 
spent,  we  went  this  evening  from  Flushing  to  Middle- 
burg,  another  fine  town  in  this  island,  to  De  Vere,  whence 
the  most  ancient  and  illustrious  Earls  of  Oxford  derive 
their  family,  who  have  spent  so  much  blood  in  assisting 
the  state  during  their  wars.     From  De   Vere   we   passed 

*  In  such  manner  Evelyn  refers  to  the  tax  of  Ship-money.  But  com- 
pare this  remarkable  passage,  now  first  printed  from  the  original,  with 
the  tone  in  which,  eight  years  later,  he  spoke  of  the  only  chance  by 
which  monarchy  in  England  might  be  saved ;  namely,  that  of  «  doing 
nothing  as  to  government  but  what  shall  be  approved  by  the  old  way  of 
a  free  parliament,  and  the  known  laws  of  the  land. » 

f  The  meaning  of  this  expression  is.  that  they  should  be  in  time  ta 
witness  the  siege. 


i64i  JOHN  EVELYN  17 

over  many  towns,  houses,  and  ruins  of  demolished  sub- 
urbs, etc.,  which  have  formerly  been  swallowed  up  by 
the  sea ;  at  what  time  no  less  than  eight  of  those  islands 
had  been  irrecoverably  lost. 

The  next  day  we  arrived  at  Dort,  the  first  town  of 
Holland,  furnished  with  all  German  commodities,  and  es- 
pecially Rhenish  wines  and  timber.  It  hath  almost  at 
the  extremity  a  very  spacious  and  venerable  church;  a 
stately  senate  house,  wherein  was  holden  that  famous 
synod  against  the  Arminians  in  16 18;  and  in  that  hall 
hangeth  a  picture  of  *  The  Passion,*  an  exceeding  rare 
and  much-esteemed  piece. 

From  Dort,  being  desirous  to  hasten  toward  the  army, 
I  took  wagon  this  afternoon  to  Rotterdam,  whither  we 
were  hurried  in  less  than  an  hour,  though  it  be  ten  miles 
distant;  so  furiously  do  those  Foremen  drive.  I  went 
first  to  visit  the  great  church,  the  Doole,  the  Bourse, 
and  the  public  statue  of  the  learned  Erasmus,  of  brass. 
They  showed  us  his  house,  or  rather  the  mean  cottage, 
wherein  he  was  born,  over  which  there  are  extant  these 
lines,  in  capital  letters: 

iEPIBUS    HIS   ORTUS,     MUNDUM     DECORAVIT     ERASMUS    ARTIBUS, 
INGENIO,    RELIGIONE,    FIDE. 

The  26th  of  July  I  passed  by  a  straight  and  commodious 
river  through  Delft  to  the  Hague;  in  which  journey  I 
observed  divers  leprous  poor  creatures  dwelling  in  solitary 
huts  on  the  brink  of  the  water,  and  permitted  to  ask  the 
charity  of  passengers,  which  is  conveyed  to  them  in  a 
floating  box  that  they  cast  out. 

Arrived  at  the  Hague,  I  went  first  to  the  Queen  of 
Bohemia's  court,  where  I  had  the  honor  to  kiss  her 
Majesty's  hand,  and  several  of  the  Princesses',  her  daugh- 
ters. Prince  Maurice  was  also  there,  newly  come  out  of 
Germany;  and  my  Lord  Finch,  not  long  before  fled  out 
of  England  from  the  fury  of  the  Parliament.  It  was  a 
fasting  day  with  the  Queen  for  the  unfortunate  death  of 
her  husband,  and  the  presence  chamber  had  been  hung 
with  black  velvet  ever  since  his  decease. 

The  28th  of  July  I  went  to  Leyden;  and  the  29th  to 
Utrecht,  being  thirty  English  miles  distant  (as  they 
reckon  by  hours).     It  was  now  Kermas,  or  a  fair,  in  this 


l8  DIARY    OF  NIMEGUEN 

town,  the  streets  swarming  with  boors  and  rudeness,  so 
that  early  the  next  morning,  having  visited  the  ancient 
Bishop's  court,  and  the  two  famous  churches,  I  satisfied 
my  curiosity  till  my  return,  and  better  leisure.  We  then 
came  to  Rynen,  where  the  Queen  of  Bohemia  hath  a  neat 
and  well  built  palace,  or  country  house,  after  the  Italian 
manner,  as  I  remember ;  and  so,  crossing  the  Rhine,  upon 
which  this  villa  is  situated,  lodged  that  night  in  a  country- 
man's house.  The  31st  to  Nimeguen;  and  on  the  2d  of 
Augnst  we  arrived  at  the  Leagure,  where  was  then  the 
whole  army  encamped  about  Genep,  a  very  strong  castle 
situated  on  the  river  Waal;  but,  being  taken  four  or 
five  days  before,  we  had  only  a  sight  of  the  demoli- 
tions. The  next  Sunday  was  the  thanksgiving  sermons 
performed  in  Colonel  Goring's  regiment  (eldest  son  of 
the  since  Earl  of  Norwich)  by  Mr.  Goffe,  his  chaplain 
(now  turned  Roman,  and  father-confessor  to  the  Queen- 
mother).  The  evening  was  spent  in  firing  cannon  and 
other  expressions  of  military  triumphs. 

Now,  according  to  the  compliment,  I  was  received  a 
volunteer  in  the  company  of  Captain  Apsley,  of  whose 
Captain-lieutenant,  Honywood  (Apsley  being  absent),  I 
received  many  civilities. 

The  3d  of  Augfust,  at  night,  we  rode  about  the  lines  of 
circumvallation,  the  general  being  then  in  the  field.  The 
next  day  I  was  accommodated  with  a  very  spacious  and 
commodious  tent  for  my  lodging;  as  before  I  was  with  a 
horse,  which  I  had  at  command,  and  a  hut  which  during 
the  excessive  heats  was  a  great  convenience ;  for  the  sun 
piercing  the  canvas  of  the  tent,  it  was  during  the  day 
unsufferable,  and  at  night  not  seldom  infested  with  mists 
and  fogs,  which  ascended  from  the  river. 

6th  August,  1 64 1.  As  the  turn  came  about,  we  were 
ordered  to  watch  on  a  horn-work  near  our  quarters,  and 
trail  a  pike,  being  the  next  morning  relieved  by  a  com- 
pany of  French.  This  was  our  continual  duty  till  the  castle 
was  refortified,  and  all  danger  of  quitting  that  station  se- 
cured ;  whence  I  went  to  see  a  Convent  of  Franciscan  Friars, 
not  far  from  our  quarters,  where  we  found  both  the  chapel 
and  refectory  full,  crowded  with  the  goods  of  such  poor 
people  as  at  the  approach  of  the  army  had  fled  with  them 
thither  for  sanctuary.  On  the  day  following,  I  went  to 
view  all  the  trenches,  approaches,  and  mines,  etc.  of  the 


i64i  JOHN   EVELYN  19 

besiegers;  and,  in  particular,  I  took  special  notice  of  the 
wheel-bridge,  which  engine  his  Excellency  had  made  to 
run  over  the  moat  when  they  stormed  the  castle ;  as  it  is 
since  described  (with  all  the  other  particulars  of  this  siege) 
by  the  author  of  that  incomparable  work,  **  Hollandia  Illus- 
trata.  *  The  walls  and  ramparts  of  earth,  which  a  mine  had 
broken  and  crumbled,  were  of  prodigious  thickness. 

Upon  the  8th  of  August,  I  dined  in  the  horse-quarters 
with  Sir  Robert  Stone  and  his  lady.  Sir  William  Stradling, 
and  divers  Cavaliers ;  where  there  was  very  good  cheer,  but 
hot  service  for  a  young  drinker,  as  then  I  was ;  so  that,  be- 
ing pretty  well  satisfied  with  the  confusion  of  armies  and 
sieges  (if  such  that  of  the  United  Provinces  may  be  called, 
where  their  quarters  and  encampments  are  so  admirably 
regular,  and  orders  so  exactly  observed,  as  few  cities,  the 
best  governed  in  time  of  peace,  exceed  it  for  all  con- 
veniences), I  took  my  leave  of  the  Leagnre  and  Came- 
rades;  and,  on  the  12th  of  August,  I  embarked  on  the 
*  Waal, "  in  company  with  three  grave  divines,  who  enter- 
tained us  a  great  part  of  our  passage  with  a  long  dispute 
concerning  the  lawfulness  of  church-music.  We  now 
sailed  by  Teil,  where  we  landed  some  of  our  freight; 
and  about  five  o'clock  we  touched  at  a  pretty  town  named 
Bommell,  that  had  divers  English  in  garrison.  It  stands 
upon  Contribution-land,  which  subjects  the  environs  to  the 
Spanish  incursions.  We  sailed  also  by  an  exceeding  strong 
fort  called  Lovestein,  famous  for  the  escape  of  the  learned 
Hugo  Grotius,  who,  being  in  durance  as  a  capital  offender, 
as  was  the  unhappy  Bameveldt,  by  the  stratagem  of  his 
lady,  was  conveyed  in  a  trunk  supposed  to  be  filled  with 
books  only.  We  lay  at  Gorcum,  a  very  strong  and  con- 
siderable frontier. 

13th  August,  1 64 1.  We  arrived  late  at  Rotterdam,  where 
was  their  annual  mart  or  fair,  so  furnished  with  pictures 
(especially  landscapes  and  drolleries,  as  they  call  those 
clownish  representations),  that  I  was  amazed.  Some  of 
these  I  bought  and  sent  into  England.  The  reason  of 
this  store  of  pictures,  and  their  cheapness,  proceeds  from 
their  want  of  land  to  employ  their  stock,  so  that  it  is  an 
ordinary  thing  to  find  a  common  farmer  lay  out  two  or 
three  thousand  pounds  in  this  commodity.  Their  houses 
are  full  of  them,  and  they  vend  them  at  their  fairs  to 
very  great  gains.     Here  I  first  saw  an  elephant,  who  was 


20  DIARY    OF  HAGUE 

extremely  well  disciplined  and  obedient.  It  was  a  beast 
of  a  monstrous  size,  yet  as  flexible  and  nimble  in  the  joints, 
contrary  to  the  vulgar  tradition,  as  could  be  imagined 
from  so  prodigious  a  bulk  and  strange  fabric;  but  I  most 
of  all  admired  the  dexterity  and  strength  of  its  proboscis, 
on  which  it  was  able  to  support  two  or  three  men,  and  by 
which  it  took  and  reached  whatever  was  offered  to  it ;  its 
teeth  were  but  short,  being  a  female,  and  not  old.  I  was 
also  shown  a  pelican,  or  onocratulas  of  Pliny,  with  its 
large  gullets,  in  which  he  kept  his  reserve  of  fish;  the 
plumage  was  white,  legs  red,  flat,  and  film-footed,  likewise 
a  cock  with  four  legs,  two  rumps  and  vents :  also  a  hen 
which  had  two  large  spurs  growing  out  of  her  sides,  pen- 
etrating the  feathers  of  her  wings. 

17th  August,  1 64 1.  I  passed  again  through  Delft,  and 
visited  the  church  in  which  was  the  monument  of  Prince 
William  of  Nassau, —  the  first  of  the  Williams,  and  savior 
(as  they  call  him)  of  their  liberty,  which  cost  him  his  life 
by  a  vile  assassination.  It  is  a  piece  of  rare  art,  consisting 
of  several  figures,  as  big  as  the  life,  in  copper.  There  is  in 
the  same  place  a  magnificent  tomb  of  his  son  and  suc- 
cessor, Maurice.  The  senate-house  hath  a  very  stately 
portico,  supported  with  choice  columns  of  black  marble, 
as  I  remember,  of  one  entire  stone.  Within,  there  hangs 
a  weighty  vessel  of  wood,  not  unlike  a  butter-chum,  which 
the  adventurous  woman  that  hath  two  husbands  at  one 
time  is  to  wear  on  her  shoulders,  her  head  peeping  out 
at  the  top  only,  and  so  led  about  the  town,  as  a  penance 
for  her  incontinence.  From  hence,  we  went  the  next  day 
to  Ryswick,  a  stately  country-house  of  the  Prince  of 
Orange,  for  nothing  more  remarkable  than  the  delicious 
walks  planted  with  lime  trees,  and  the  modem  paintings 
within. 

19th  August,  1 64 1.  We  returned  to  the  Hague,  and  went 
to  visit  the  Hoff,  or  Prince's  Court,  with  the  adjoining 
gardens  full  of  ornament,  close  walks,  statues,  marbles, 
grots,  fountains,  and  artificial  music.  There  is  to  this 
palace  a  stately  hall,  not  much  inferior  to  ours  of  West- 
minster, hung  round  with  colors  and  other  trophies  taken 
from  the  Spaniards  ;*  and  the  sides  below  are  furnished  with 

*  Westminster  hall  used  to  be  so  in  Term  time,  and  during  the  sit- 
ting of  Parliament,  as  late  as  the  beginning  of  the  reign  of  George 
III. 


i64i  JOHN   EVELYN  21 

shops.  Next  day  (the  20th)  I  returned  to  Delft,  thence 
to  Rotterdam,  the  Hague,  and  Leyden,  where  immedi- 
ately I  mounted  a  wagon,  which  that  night,  late  as  it 
was,  brought  us  to  Haerlem.  About  seven  in  the  morn- 
ing after  I  came  to  Amsterdam,  where  being  provided 
with  a  lodging,  the  first  thing  I  went  to  see  was  a  Syn- 
agogfue  of  the  Jews  (being  Saturday),  whose  ceremonies, 
ornaments,  lamps,  law,  and  schools,  aflEorded  matter  for 
my  contemplation.  The  women  were  secluded  from  the 
men,  being  seated  in  galleries  above,  shut  with  lattices, 
having  their  heads  muffled  with  linen,  after  a  fantastical 
and  somewhat  extraordinary  fashion;  the  men,  wearing 
a  large  calico  mantle,  yellow  colored,  over  their  hats,  all 
the  while  waving  their  bodies,  while  at  their  devotions. 
From  thence,  I  went  to  a  place  without  the  town,  called 
Overkirk,  where  they  have  a  spacious  field  assig^ned  them 
to  bury  their  dead,  full  of  sepulchers  with  Hebraic 
inscriptions,  some  of  them  stately  and  costly.  Looking 
through  one  of  these  monuments,  where  the  stones  were 
disjointed,  I  perceived  divers  books  and  papers  lie  about 
a  corpse;  for  it  seems,  when  any  learned  Rabbi  dies, 
they  bury  some  of  his  books  with  him.  With  the  help 
of  a  stick,  I  raked  out  several,  written  in  Hebrew  char- 
acters, but  much  impaired.  As  we  returned,  we  stepped 
in  to  see  the  Spin-house,  a  kind  of  bridewell,  where 
incorrigible  and  lewd  women  are  kept  in  discipline  and 
labor,  but  all  neat.  We  were  shown  an  hospital  for 
poor  travelers  and  pilgrims,  built  by  Queen  Elizabeth  of 
England;  and  another  maintained  by  the  city. 

The  State  or  Senate-house  of  this  town,  if  the  design 
be  perfected,  will  be  one  of  the  most  costly  and  magnifi- 
cent pieces  of  architecture  in  Europe,  especially  for  the 
materials  and  the  carvings.  In  the  Doole  is  painted,  on 
a  very  large  table,  the  bust  of  Marie  de  Medicis,  supported 
by  four  royal  diadems,  the  work  of  one  Vanderdall,  who 
hath  set  his  name  thereon,   ist  September,   1638. 

On  Sunday,  I  heard  an  English  sermon  at  the  Presby- 
terian congregation,  where  they  had  chalked  upon  a  slate 
the  psalms  that  were  to  be  sung,  so  that  all  the  congre- 
gation might  see  them  without  the  bidding  of  a  clerk.  I 
was  told,  that  after  such  an  age  no  minister  was  permitted 
to  preach,  but  had  his  maintenance  continued  during 
life. 


22  DIARY   OF  AMSTERDAM 

I  purposely  changed  my  lodgings,  being  desirous  to 
converse  with  the  sectaries  that  swarmed  in  this  city, 
out  of  whose  spawn  came  those  almost  innumerable  broods 
in  England  afterward.  It  was  at  a  Brownist's  house, 
where  we  had  an  extrordinary  good  table.  There  was  in 
pension  with  us  my  Lord  Keeper,  Finch,  and  one  Sir  J, 
Fotherbee.  Here  I  also  found  an  English  Carmelite,  who 
was  going  through  Germany  with  an  Irish  gentleman.  I 
now  went  to  see  the  Weese-house,  a  foundation  like  our 
Charter-house,  for  the  education  of  decayed  persons, 
orphans,  and  poor  children,  where  they  are  taught  sev- 
eral occupations.  The  girls  are  so  well  brought  up  to 
housewifery,  that  men  of  good  worth,  who  seek  that 
chiefly  in  a  woman,  frequently  take  their  wives  from  this 
hospital.  Thence  to  the  Rasp-house,  where  the  lusty 
knaves  are  compelled  to  work;  and  the  rasping  of  brasil 
and  logwood  for  the  dyers  is  very  hard  labor.  To  the 
Dool-house,  for  madmen  and  fools.  But  none  did  I  so 
much  admire,  as  an  Hospital  for  their  lame  and  decrepit 
soldiers  and  seamen,  where  the  accommodations  are  very 
great,  the  building  answerable;  and,  indeed,  for  the  like 
public  charities  the  provisions  are  admirable  in  this  coun- 
try, where,  as  no  idle  vagabonds  are  suffered  (as  in 
England  they  are),  there  is  hardly  a  child  of  four  or  five 
years  old,  but  they  find  some  employment  for  it. 

It  was  on  a  Sunday  morning  that  I  went  to  the  Bourse, 
or  Exchange,  after  their  sermons  were  ended,  to  see  the 
Dog-market,  which  lasts  till  two  in  the  afternoon,  in  this 
place  of  convention  of  merchants  from  all  parts  of  the 
world.  The  building  is  not  comparable  to  that  of  London, 
built  by  that  worthy  citizen.  Sir  Thomas  Gresham,  yet 
in  one  respect  exceeding  it,  that  vessels  of  considerable 
burden  ride  at  the  very  quay  contiguous  to  it;  and  in- 
deed it  is  by  extraordinary  industry  that  as  well  this  city, 
as  generally  all  the  towns  of  Holland,  are  so  accommo- 
dated with  graffs,  cuts,  sluices,  moles,  and  rivers,  made 
by  hand,  that  nothing  is  more  frequent  than  to  see  a 
whole  navy,  belonging  to  this  mercantile  people,  riding 
at  anchor  before  their  very  doors:  and  yet  their  streets 
even,  straight,  and  well  paved,  the  houses  so  uniform 
and  planted  with  lime  trees,  as  nothing  can  be  more 
beautiful. 

The  next  day  we  were  entertained  at  a  kind  of  tavern, 


i64i  JOHN  EVELYN  23 

called  the  Brilof t,  appertaining  to  a  rich  Anabaptist,  where, 
in  the  upper  rooms  of  the  house,  were  divers  pretty 
waterworks,  rising  108  feet  from  the  ground.  Here  were 
many  quaint  devices,  fountains,  artificial  music,  noises  of 
beasts,  and  chirping  of  birds;  but  what  pleased  me  most 
was  a  large  pendant  candlestick,  branching  into  several 
sockets,  furnished  all  with  ordinary  candles  to  appearance, 
out  of  the  wicks  spouting  out  streams  of  water,  instead 
of  flames.  This  seemed  then  and  was  a  rarity,  before 
the  philosophy  of  compressed  air  made  it  intelligible. 
There  was  likewise  a  cylinder  that  entertained  the  com- 
pany with  a  variety  of  chimes,  the  hammers  striking  upon 
the  brims  of  porcelain  dishes,  suited  to  the  tones  and  notes, 
without  cracking  any  of  them.  Many  other  waterworks 
were  shown. 

The  Kaiser's  or  Emperor's  Graft,  which  is  an  ample 
and  long  street,  appearing  like  a  city  in  a  forest ;  the  lime 
trees  planted  just  before  each  house,  and  at  the  margin 
of  that  goodly  aqueduct  so  curiously  wharfed  with  Klin- 
card  brick,  which  likewise  paves  the  streets,  than  which 
nothing  can  be  more  useful  and  neat.  This  part  of  Am- 
sterdam is  built  and  gained  upon  the  main  sea,  supported 
by  piles  at  an  immense  charge,  and  fitted  for  the  most 
busy  concourse  of  traffickers  and  people  of  commerce  be- 
yond any  place,  or  mart,  in  the  world.  Nor  must  I  forget 
the  port  of  entrance  into  an  issue  of  this  town,  composed 
of  very  magnificent  pieces  of  architecture,  some  of  the 
ancient  and  best  manner,  as  are  divers  churches. 

The  turrets,  or  steeples,  are  adorned  after  a  particular 
manner  and  invention;  the  chimes  of  bells  are  so  rarely 
managed,  that  being  curious  to  know  whether  the  motion 
was  from  any  engine,  I  went  up  to  that  of  St.  Nicholas, 
where  I  found  one  who  played  all  sorts  of  compositions 
from  the  tablature  before  him,  as  if  he  had  fingered  an 
organ;  for  so  were  the  hammers  fastened  with  wires  to 
several  keys  put  into  a  frame  twenty  feet  below  the  bells, 
upon  which  (by  the  help  of  a  wooden  instrument,  not 
much  unlike  a  weaver's  shuttle,  that  gnarded  his  hand) 
he  struck  on  the  keys  and  played  to  admiration.  All  this 
while,  through  the  clattering  of  the  wires,  din  of  the  too 
nearly  sounding  bells,  and  noise  that  his  wooden  gloves 
made,  the  confusion  was  so  great,  that  it  was  impossible 
for  the   musician,  or   any  that   stood  near  him,  to  hear 


24  DIARY    OF  HAERLEM 

anything  at  all;  yet,  to  those  at  a  distance,  and  espe- 
cially in  the  streets,  the  harmony  and  the  time  were  the 
most  exact  and  agreeable. 

The  south  church  is  richly  paved  with  black  and  white 
marble, —  the  west  is  a  new  fabric;  and  generally  all  the 
churches  in  Holland  are  furnished  with  organs,  lamps, 
and  monuments,  carefully  preserved  from  the  fury  and 
impiety  of  popular  reformers,  whose  zeal  has  foolishly 
transported  them  in  other  places  rather  to  act  like  mad- 
men than  religious. 

Upon  St.  Bartholomew's  day,  I  went  among  the  book- 
sellers, and  visited  the  famous  Hondius  and  Bleaw's  shop, 
to  buy  some  maps,  atlases,  and  other  works  of  that  kind. 
At  another  shop,  I  furnished  myself  with  some  shells  and 
Indian  curiosities;  and  so,  toward  the  end  of  August,  I 
returned  again  to  Haerlem  by  the  river,  ten  miles  in 
length,  straight  as  a  line,  and  of  competent  breadth  for 
ships  to  sail  by  one  another.  They  showed  us  a  cottage 
where,  they  told  us,  dwelt  a  woman  who  had  been  married 
to  her  twenty-fifth  husband,  and  being  now  a  widow,  was 
prohibited  to  marry  in  future ;  yet  it  could  not  be  proved 
that  she  had  ever  made  away  with  any  of  her  husbands, 
though  the  suspicion  had  brought  her  divers  times  to  trouble. 

Haerlem  is  a  very  delicate  town  and  hath  one  of  the 
fairest  churches  of  the  Gothic  design  I  had  ever  seen. 
There  hang  in  the  steeple,  which  is  very  high,  two  silver 
bells,  said  to  have  been  brought  from  Damietta,  in  Egypt, 
by  an  earl  of  Holland,  in  memory  of  whose  success  they 
are  rung  out  every  evening.  In  the  nave  hang  the  good- 
liest branches  of  brass  for  tapers  that  I  have  seen,  esteemed 
of  great  value  for  the  curiosity  of  the  workmanship ;  also  a 
fair  pair  of  organs,  which  I  could  not  find  they  made  use  of 
in  divine  service,  or  so  much  as  to  assist  them  in  singing 
psalms,  but  only  for  show,  and  to  recreate  the  people 
before  and  after  their  devotions,  while  the  burgomasters 
were  walking  and  conferring  about  their  affairs.  Near  the 
west  window  hang  two  models  of  ships,  completely 
equipped,  in  memory  of  that  invention  of  saws  under 
their  keels,  with  which  they  cut  through  the  chain  of 
booms,  which  barred  the  port  of  Damietta.  Having  visited 
this  church,  the  fish-market,  and  made  some  inquiry  about 
the  printing-house,  the  invention  whereof  is  said  to  have 
been  in  this  town,  I  returned  to  Leyden. 


1641  JOHN  EVELYN  25 

At  Leyden,  I  was  carried  up  to  the  castle,  or  Pyrgus, 
built  on  a  very  steep  artificial  mount,  cast  up  (as  reported) 
by  Hengist  tbe  Saxon,  on  his  return  out  of  England, 
as  a  place  to  retire  to,  in  case  of  any  sudden  inunda- 
tions. 

The  churches  are  many  and  fair;  in  one  of  them  lies 
buried  the  learned  and  illustrious  Joseph  Scaliger,  without 
any  extraordinary  inscription,  who,  having  left  the  world 
a  monument  of  his  worth  more  lasting  than  marble,  needed 
nothing  more  than  his  own  name;  which  I  think  is  all 
engraven  on  his  sepulcher.  He  left  his  library  to  this 
University. 

28th  August,  1 64 1.  I  went  to  see  the  college  and 
schools,  which  are  nothing  extraordinary,  and  was  com- 
plimented with  a  viatriaila  by  the  magnificus  Professor, 
who  first  in  Latin  demanded  of  me  where  my  lodging  in 
the  town  was,  my  name,  age,  birth,  and  to  what  Faculty 
I  addicted  myself ;  then,  recording  my  answers  in  a  book, 
he  administered  an  oath  to  me  that  I  should  observe  the 
statutes  and  orders  of  the  University  while  I  stayed, 
and  then  delivered  me  a  ticket,  by  virtue  whereof  I  was 
made  excise-free;  for  all  which  worthy  privileges,  and 
the  pains  of  writing,  he  accepted  of  a  rix-dollar. 

Here  was  now  the  famous  Dan.  Heinsius,  whom  I  so 
longed  to  see,  as  well  as  the  no  less  famous  printer, 
Elzevir's  printing-house  and  shop,  renowned  for  the 
politeness  of  the  character  and  editions  of  what  he 
has  published  through  Europe.  Hence  to  the  physic- 
garden,  well  stored  with  exotic  plants,  if  the  catalogue 
presented  to  me  by  the  gardener  be    a   faithful   register. 

But,  among  all  the  rarities  of  this  place,  I  was  much 
pleased  with  a  sight  of  their  anatomy-school,  theater,  and 
repository  adjoining,  which  is  well  furnished  with  natural 
curiosities ;  skeletons,  from  the  whale  and  elephant  to  the 
fly  and  spider;  which  last  is  a  verj'-  delicate  piece  of  art, 
to  see  how  the  bones  ( if  I  may  so  call  them  of  so  tender 
an  insect)  could  be  separated  from  the  mucilaginous 
parts  of  that  minute  animal.  Among  a  great  variety  of 
other  things,  I  was  shown  the  knife  newly  taken  out  of 
a  drunken  Dutchman's  gfuts,  by  an  incision  in  his  side, 
after  it  had  slipped  from  his  fingers  into  his  stomach. 
The  pictures  of  the  chirurgeon  and  his  patient,  both  liv- 
ing, were  there. 


26  DIARY    OF  LEYDEN 

There  is  without  the  town  a  fair  Mall,  curiously 
planted. 

Returning  to  my  lodging,  I  was  showed  the  statue, 
cut  in  stone,  of  the  happy  monk,  whom  they  report  to 
have  been  the  first  inventor  of  typography,  set  over  the 
door;  but  this  is  much  controverted  by  others,  who  strive 
for  the  glory  of  it,  besides  John  Gutenberg. 

I  was  brought  acquainted  with  a  Burgundian  Jew,  who 
had  married  an  apostate  Kentish  woman.  I  asked  him 
divers  questions:  he  told  me,  among  other  things,  that 
the  World  should  never  end ;  that  our  souls  transmigrated, 
and  that  even  those  of  the  most  holy  persons  did  penance 
in  the  bodies  of  brutes  after  death, —  and  so  he  inter- 
preted the  banishment  and  savage  life  of  Nebuchadnezzar : 
that  all  the  Jews  should  rise  again,  and  be  led  to  Jeru- 
salem; that  the  Romans  only  were  the  occasion  of  our 
Savior's  death,  whom  he  affirmed  (as  the  Turks  do)  to 
be  a  great  prophet,  but  not  the  Messiah.  He  showed  me 
several  books  of  their  devotion,  which  he  had  translated 
into  English,  for  the  instruction  of  his  wife;  he  told  me 
that  when  the  Messiah  came,  all  the  ships,  barks,  and 
vessels  of  Holland  should,  by  the  power  of  certain  strange 
whirlwinds,  be  loosed  from  their  anchors,  and  transported 
in  a  moment  to  all  the  desolate  ports  and  havens  through- 
out the  world,  wherever  the  dispersion  was,  to  convey 
their  brethren  and  tribes  to  the  Holy  City;  with  other 
such  like  stuff.  He  was  a  merry  drunken  fellow,  but 
would  by  no  means  handle  any  money  (for  something  I 
purchased  of  him),  it  being  Saturday;  but  desired  me  to 
leave  it  in  the  window,  meaning  to  receive  it  on  Sunday 
morning. 

ist  September,  1641.  I  went  to  Delft  and  Rotterdam, 
and  two  days  after  back  to  the  Hague,  to  bespeak  a  suit 
of  horseman's  armor,  which  I  caused  to  be  made  to  fit 
me.  I  now  rode  out  of  town  to  see  the  monument  of  the 
woman,  pretended  to  have  been  a  countess  of  Holland, 
reported  to  have  had  as  many  children  at  one  birth,  as 
there  are  days  in  the  year.  The  basins  were  hung  up  in 
which  they  were  baptized,  together  with  a  large  descrip- 
tion of  the  matter-of-fact  in  a  frame  of  carved  work,  in 
the  church  of  Lysdun,  a  desolate  place.  As  I  returned, 
I  diverted  to  see  one  of  the  Prince's  Palaces,  called  the 
Hoff  Van    Hounsler's    Dyck,    a   very   fair  cloistered   and 


1 64 1  JOHN  EVELYN  rj 

quadrangular  building.  The  gallery  is  prettily  painted 
with  several  huntings,  and  at  one  end  a  gordian  knot, 
with  rustical  instruments  so  artificially  represented,  as  to 
deceive  an  accurate  eye  to  distinguish  it  from  actual  re- 
lievo. The  ceiling  of  the  staircase  is  painted  with  the 
**  Rape  of  Ganymede,  *  and  other  pendant  figures,  the  work 
of  F.  Covenberg,  of  whose  hand  I  bought  an  excellent 
drollery,  which  I  afterward  parted  with  to  my  brother 
George  of  Wotton,  where  it  now  hangs.  To  this  palace 
join  a  fair  garden  and  park,  curiously  planted  with  limes. 

8th  September,  1641.  Returned  to  Rotterdam,  through 
Delftshaven  and  Sedan,  where  were  at  that  time  Colonel 
Goring's  winter  quarters.  This  town  has  heretofore  been 
very  much  talked  of  for  witches. 

loth  September,  1641.  I  took  a  wagon  for  Dort,  to  be 
present  at  the  reception  of  the  Queen-mother,  Marie  de 
Medicis,  Dowager  of  France,  widow  of  Henry  the  Great, 
and  mother  to  the  French  King,  Louis  XIII.,  and  the 
Queen  of  England,  whence  she  newly  arrived,  tossed  to 
and  fro  by  the  various  fortune  of  her  life.  From  this 
city,  she  designed  for  Cologne,  conducted  by  the  Earl 
of  Arundel  and  the  Herr  Van  Bredrod.  At  this  inter- 
view, I  saw  the  Princess  of  Orange,  and  the  lady  her 
daughter,  afterward  married  to  the  House  of  Branden- 
burgh.  There  was  little  remarkable  in  this  reception 
befitting  the  greatness  of  her  person;  but  an  universal 
discontent,  which  accompanied  that  unlucky  woman 
wherever  she   went. 

12th  September,  1641.  I  went  toward  Bois-le-Duc, 
where  we  arrived  on  the  i6th,  at  the  time  when  the  new 
citadel  was  advancing,  with  innumerable  hands,  and 
incomparable  inventions  for  draining  off  the  waters  out 
of  the  fens  and  morasses  about  it,  being  by  buckets, 
mills,  cochleas,  pumps,  and  the  like;  in  which  the  Hol- 
landers are  the  most  expert  in  Europe.  Here  were  now 
sixteen  companies  and  nine  troops  of  horse.  They  were 
also  cutting  a  new  river,  to  pass  from  the  town  to  a 
castle  not  far  from  it.  Here  we  split  our  skiff,  falling 
foul  upon  another  through  negligence  of  the  master,  who 
was  fain  to  run  aground,  to  our  no  little  hazard.  At  our 
arrival,  a  soldier  conveyed  us  to  the  Governor,  where  our 
names  were  taken,  and  our  persons  examined  very 
strictly. 


38  DIARY    OF  ROTTERDAM 

17th  September,  1641.  I  was  permitted  to  walk  the  round 
and  view  the  works,  and  to  visit  a  convent  of  religious 
women  of  the  order  of  St.  Clara  (who  by  the  capitulation 
were  allowed  to  enjoy  their  monastery  and  maintenance 
undisturbed,  at  the  surrender  of  the  town  twelve  years 
since),  where  we  had  a  collation  and  very  civil  entertain- 
ment. They  had  a  neat  chapel,  in  which  the  heart  of 
the  Duke  of  Cleves,  their  founder,  lies  inhumed  under  a 
plate  of  brass.  Within  the  cloister  is  a  garden,  and  in  the 
middle  of  it  an  overgrown  lime  tree,  out  of  whose  stem, 
near  the  root,  issue  five  upright  and  exceeding  tall  suck- 
ers, or  bolls,  the  like  whereof  for  evenness  and  height  I 
had  not  observed. 

The  chief  church  of  this  city  is  curiously  carved  within 
and  without,  furnished  with  a  pair  of  organs,  and  a  most 
magnificent  font  of  copper. 

1 8th  September,  1641.  I  went  to  see  that  most  impreg- 
nable town  and  fort  of  Hysdune,  where  I  was  exceedingly 
obliged  to  one  Colonel  Crombe,  the  lieutenant-governor, 
who  would  needs  make  me  accept  the  honor  of  being 
captain  of  the  watch,  and  to  g^ve  the  word  this  night. 
The  fortification  is  very  irregular,  but  esteemed  one  of 
the  most  considerable  for  strength  and  situation  in  the 
Netherlands.  We  departed  toward  Gorcum.  Here  Sir 
Kenelm  Digby,  traveling  toward   Cologne,  met  us. 

The  next  morning,  the  19th,  we  arrived  at  Dort,  pas- 
sing by  the  Decoys,  where  they  catch  innumerable 
quantities  of  fowl. 

2  2d  September,  1641.  I  went  again  to  Rotterdam  to  re- 
ceive a  pass  which  I  expected  from  Brussels,  securing  me 
through  Brabant  and  Flanders,  designing  to  go  into  Eng- 
land through  those  countries.  The  Cardinal  Infante, 
brother  to  the  King  of  Spain,  was  then  governor.  By  this 
pass,  having  obtained  another  from  the  Prince  of  Orange, 
upon  the  24th  of  September  I  departed  through  Dort ;  but 
met  with  very  bad  tempestuous  weather,  being  several 
times  driven  back,  and  obliged  to  lie  at  anchor  off  Keele, 
other  vessels  lying  there  waiting  better  weather.  The 
25th  and  26th  we  made  other  essays;  but  were  again 
repulsed  to  the  harbor,  where  lay  sixty  vessels 
waiting  to  sail.  But,  on  the  27th,  we,  impatient  of  the 
time  and  inhospitableness  of  the  place,  sailed  again  with 
a   contrary   and    impetuous   wind   and   a    terrible  sea,  in 


1641  JOHN  EVELYN  29 

great  jeopardy;  for  we  had  much  ado  to  keep  ourselves 
above  water,  the  billows  breaking  desperately  on  our 
vessel:  we  were  driven  into  Williamstadt,  a  place  gar- 
risoned by  the  English,  where  the  governor  had  a  fair 
house.  The  works,  and  especially  the  counterscarp,  are 
curiously  hedged  with  quick,  and  planted  with  a  stately 
row  of  limes  on  the  rampart.  The  church  is  of  a  round 
structure,  with  a  cupola,  and  the  town  belongs  entirely 
to  the  Prince  of  Orange,  as  does  that  of  Breda,  and  some 
other  places. 

28th  September,  1641.  Failing  of  an  appointment,  I  was 
constrained  to  return  to  Dort  for  a  bill  of  exchange;  but 
it  was  the  ist  of  October  ere  I  could  get  back.  At 
Keele,  I  numbered  141  vessels,  who  durst  not  yet  ven- 
ture out;  but,  animated  by  the  master  of  a  stout  bark, 
after  a  small  encounter  of  weather,  we  arrived  by  four 
that  evening  at  Steenbergen.  In  the  passage  we  sailed  over 
a  sea  called  the  Plaats,  an  exceeding  dangerous  water,  by 
reason  of  two  contrary  tides  which  meet  there  very  im- 
petuously. Here,  because  of  the  many  shelves,  we  were 
forced  to  tide  it  along  the  Channel;  but,  ere  we  could 
gain  the  place,  the  ebb  was  so  far  spent,  that  we  were 
compelled  to  foot  it  at  least  two  long  miles,  through  a 
most  pelting  shower  of  rain, 

2d  October,  1641.  With  a  gentleman  of  the  Rhyngraves, 
I  went  in  a  cart,  or  tumbrel  (for  it  was  no  better;  no 
other  accommodation  could  be  procured),  of  two  wheels 
and  one  horse,  to  Bergen-op-Zoom,  meeting  by  the  way 
divers  parties  of  his  Highness's  army  now  retiring  toward 
their  winter  quarters;  the  convoy  skiflfs  riding  by 
thousands  along  the  harbor.  The  fort  was  heretofore 
built  by  the  English. 

The  next  morning  I  embarked  for  Lillo,  having  refused 
a  convoy  of  horse  which  was  offered  me.  The  tide  being 
against  us,  we  landed  short  of  the  fort  on  the  beach, 
where  we  marched  half  leg  deep  in  mud,  ere  we  could 
gain  the  dyke,  which,  being  five  or  six  miles  from  Lillo, 
we  were  forced  to  walk  on  foot  very  wet  and  discomposed ; 
and  then  entering  a  boat  we  passed  the  ferry,  and  came 
to  the  castle.  Being  taken  before  the  Governor,  he  de- 
manded my  pass,  to  which  he  set  his  hand,  and  asked  two 
rix-dollars  for  a  fee,  which  methought  appeared  very  ex- 
orbitant in  a  soldier  of  his  quality.     I  told  him  that  I  had 


30  DIARY  OF  Antwerp 

already  purchased  my  pass  of  the  commissaries  at  Rotter- 
dam; at  which,  in  a  great  fury,  snatching  the  paper  out 
of  my  hand,  he  flung  it  scornfully  under  the  table,  and 
bade  me  try  whether  I  could  get  to  Antwerp  without  his 
permission:  but  I  had  no  sooner  given  him  the  dollars, 
then  he  returned  the  passport  surlily  enough,  and  made  me 
pay  fourteen  Dutch  shillings  to  the  cantone,  or  searcher, 
for  my  contempt,  which  I  was  glad  to  do  for  fear  of 
further  trouble,  should  he  have  discovered  my  Spanish 
pass,  in  which  the  States  were  therein  treated  by  the 
name  of  rebels.  Besides  all  these  exactions,  I  gave  the 
commissary  six  shillings,  to  the  soldiers  something,  and, 
ere  perfectly  clear  of  this  frontier,  thirty-one  stivers  to 
the  man-of-war,  who  lay  blocking  up  the  river  between 
Lillo  and  the  opposite  sconce  called  Lifkinshoeck. 

4th  October,  1641,  We  sailed  by  several  Spanish  forts, 
out  of  one  of  which,  St.  Mary's  port,  came  a  Don  on  board 
us,  to  whom  I  showed  my  Spanish  pass,  which  he  signed, 
and  civilly  dismissed  us.  Hence,  sailing  by  another  man- 
of-war,  to  which  we  lowered  our  topsails,  we  at  length 
arrived  at  Antwerp. 

The  lodgings  here  are  very  handsome  and  convenient. 
I  lost  little  time;  but,  with  the  aid  of  one  Mr.  Lewkner, 
our  conductor,  we  visited  divers  churches,  colleges,  and 
monasteries.  The  Church  of  the  Jesuits  is  most  sumptu- 
ous and  magnificent ;  a  glorious  fabric  without  and  within, 
wholly  incrusted  with  marble,  inlaid  and  polished  into 
divers  representations  of  histories,  landscapes,  and  flowers. 
On  the  high  altar  is  placed  the  statue  of  the  Blessed 
Virgin  and  our  Savior  in  white  marble,  with  a  boss  in 
the  girdle  set  with  very  fair  and  rich  sapphires,  and  divers 
other  stones  of  price.  The  choir  is  a  glorious  piece  of 
architecture:  the  pulpit  supported  by  four  angels,  and 
adorned  with  other  carvings,  and  rare  pictures  by  Rubens, 
now  lately  dead,  and  divers  votive  tables  and  relics.  Hence, 
to  the  Vroii  Kirk,  or  Notre  Dame  of  Antwerp :  it  is  a 
very  venerable  fabric,  built  after  the  Gothic  manner,  es- 
pecially the  tower,  which  I  ascended,  the  better  to  take  a 
view  of  the  country  adjacent;  which,  happening  on  a  day 
when  the  sun  shone  exceedingly  bright,  and  darted  his 
rays  without  any  interruption,  afforded  so  bright  a  reflec- 
tion to  us  who  were  above,  and  had  a  full  prospect  of 
both  land  and  water  about  it,  that  I  was  much  confirmed 


i64i  JOHN  EVELYN  31 

in  my  opinion  of  the  moon's  being  of  some  such  substance 
as  this  earthly  globe :  perceiving  all  the  subjacent  country, 
at  so  small  an  horizontal  distance,  to  repercuss  such  a 
light  as  I  could  hardly  look  against,  save  where  the  river, 
and  other  large  water  within  our  view,  appeared  of  a 
more  dark  and  uniform  color;  resembling  those  spots  in 
the  moon  supposed  to  be  seas  there,  according  to  Hevelius, 
and  as  they  appear  in  our  late  telescopes.  I  numbered 
in  this  church  thirty  privileged  altars,  that  of  St.  Sebastian 
adorned  with  a  painting  of  his  martyrdom. 

We  went  to  see  the  Jerusalem  Church,  affirmed  to 
have  been  founded  by  one  who,  upon  divers  great  wagers, 
passed  to  and  fro  between  that  city  and  Antwerp,  on 
foot,  by  which  he  procured  large  sums  of  money,  which 
he  bestowed  on  this  pious  structure.*  Hence,  to  St. 
Mary's  Chapel,  where  I  had  some  conference  with  two 
English  Jesuits,  confessors  to  Colonel  Jaye's  regiment. 
These  fathers  conducted  us  to  the  Cloister  of  Nuns, 
where  we  heard  a  Dutch  sermon  upon  the  exposure  of 
the  Host.  The  Senate-house  of  this  city  is  a  very  spa- 
cious and  magnificent  building. 

5th  October,  1641.  I  visited  the  Jesuits'  School,  which, 
for  the  fame  of  their  method,  I  greatly  desired  to  see. 
They  were  divided  into  four  classes,  with  several  inscrip- 
tions over  each:  as,  first.  Ad  major  em  Dei  gloriam;  over 
the  second,  Princeps  diligentice;  the  third,  Imperator 
Byzantiorum;  over  the  fourth  and  uppermost,  Imperator 
Romanorum.  Under  these,  the  scholars  and  pupils  and 
their  places,  or  forms  with  titles  and  priority  according 
to  their  proficiency.  Their  dormitory  and  lodgings  above 
were  exceedingly  neat.  They  have  a  prison  for  the 
offenders  and  less  diligent;  and,  in  an  ample  court,  to 
recreate  themselves  in,  is  an  aviary,  and  a  yard,  where 
eagles,  vultures,  foxes,  monkeys,  and  other  animals  are 
kept,  to  divert  the  boys  withal  at  their  hours  of  remis- 
sion. To  this  school  join  the  music  and  mathematical 
schools,  and  lastly  a  pretty,  neat  chapel.  The  great 
street  is  built  after  the  Italian  mode,  in  the  middle 
whereof  is  erected  a  glorious  crucifix  of  white  and  black 
marble,  greater  than  the  life.  This  is  a  very  fair  and 
noble  street,  clean,  well  paved,  and  sweet  to  admiration. 

•This  notice,  slipped  by  accident  into  the  entries  which  refer  to 
Antwerp,  belongs  to  those  of  Bruges. 


32  DIARY    OF  ANTWERP 

The  Oesters  house,  belonging  to  the  East  India  Com- 
pany, is  a  stately  palace,  adorned  with  more  than  300 
windows.  From  hence,  walking  into  the  Gun-garden,  I 
was  allowed  to  see  as  much  of  the  citadel  as  is  per- 
mitted to  strangers.  It  is  a  matchless  piece  of  modern 
fortification,  accommodated  with  lodgments  for  the  sol- 
diers and  magazines.  The  graffs,  ramparts,  and  platforms 
are  stupendous.  Returning  by  the  shop  of  Plantine,  I 
bought  some  books,  for  the  namesake  only  of  that  famous 
printer. 

But  there  was  nothing  about  this  city  which  more  rav- 
ished me  than  those  delicious  shades  and  walks  of  stately 
trees,  which  render  the  fortified  works  of  the  town  one 
of  the  sweetest  places  in  Europe ;  nor  did  I  ever  observe 
a  more  quiet,  clean,  elegantly  built  and  civil  place,  than 
this  magnificent  and  famous  city  of  Antwerp.  In  the 
evening,  I  was  invited  to  Signor  Duerte's,  a  Portuguese 
by  nation,  an  exceeding  rich  merchant,  whose  palace  I 
found  to  be  furnished  like  a  prince's.  His  three  daugh- 
ters entertained  us  with  rare  music,  vocal  and  instru- 
mental, which  was  finished  with  a  handsome  collation. 
I  took  leave  of  the  ladies  and  of  sweet  Antwerp,  as  late 
as  it  was,  embarking  for  Brussels  on  the  Scheldt  in  a 
vessel,  which  delivered  us  to  a  second  boat  (in  another 
river)  drawn  or  towed  by  horses.  In  this  passage,  we 
frequently  changed  our  barge,  by  reason  of  the  bridges 
thwarting  our  course.  Here  I  observed  numerous  families 
inhabiting  their  vessels  and  floating  dwellings,  so  built 
and  divided  by  cabins,  as  few  houses  on  land  enjoyed 
better  accommodation;  stored  with  all  sorts  of  utensils, 
neat  chambers,  a  pretty  parlor,  and  kept  so  sweet,  that 
nothing  could  be  more  refreshing.  The  rivers  on  which 
they  are  drawn  are  very  clear  and  still  waters,  and  pass 
through  a  most  pleasant  country  on  both  the  banks.  We 
had  in  our  boat  a  very  good  ordinary,  and  excellent  com- 
pany. The  cut  is  straight  as  a  line  for  twenty  English 
miles.  What  I  much  admired  was,  near  the  midway, 
another  artificial  river,  which  intersects  this  at  right 
angles,  but  on  an  eminence  of  ground,  and  is  carried  in 
an  aqueduct  of  stone  so  far  above  the  other  as  that  the 
waters  neither  mingle,  nor  hinder  one  another's  passage. 

We  came  to  a  town  called  Villefrow,  where  all  the 
passengers  went  on  shore   to   wash  at  a  fountain  issuing 


id4i  JOHN  EVELYN  33 

out  of  a  pillar,  and  then  came  aboard  again.  On  the 
margin  of  this  long  tract  are  abundance  of  shrines  and 
images,  defended  from  the  injuries  of  the  weather  by 
niches  of  stone  wherein  they  are  placed. 

7th  October,  1641.  We  arrived  at  Brussels  at  nine  in 
the  morning.  The  Stadt-house,  near  the  market  place, 
is,  for  the  can-ing  in  freestone,  a  most  laborious  and 
finished  piece,  well  worthy  observation.  The  flesh-sham- 
bles are  also  built  of  stone.  I  was  pleased  with  certain 
small  engines,  by  which  a  girl,  or  boy,  was  able  to  draw 
up,  or  let  down,  great  bridges,  which  in  divers  parts  of 
this  city  crossed  the  channel  for  the  benefit  of  passen- 
gers. The  walls  of  this  town  are  very  entire,  and  full  of 
towers  at  competent  distances.  The  cathedral  is  built 
upon  a  very  high  and  exceeding  steep  ascent,  to  which 
we  mounted  by  fair  steps  of  stone.  Hence  I  walked  to 
a  convent  of  English  Nuns,  with  whom  I  sat  discoursing 
most  part  of  the  afternoon. 

8th  October,  1641.  Being  the  morning  I  came  away, 
I  went  to  see  the  Prince's  Court,  an  ancient,  confused 
building,  not  much  unlike  the  Hofft,  at  the  Hagne :  there 
is  here  likewise  a  very  large  hall,  where  they  vend  all 
sorts  of  wares.  Through  this  we  passed  by  the  chapel, 
which  is  indeed  rarely  arched,  and  in  the  middle  of  it 
was  the  hearse,  or  catafalque,  of  the  late  Archduchess,  the 
wise  and  pious  Clara  Eugenia.  Out  of  this  we  were  con- 
ducted to  the  lodgings,  tapestried  with  incomparable 
arras,  and  adorned  with  many  excellent  pieces  of  Rubens, 
old  and  young  Breugel,  Titian,  and  Stenwick,  with  stories 
of  most  of  the  late  actions  in  the  Netherlands. 

By  an  accident  we  could  not  see  the  library.  There 
is  a  fair  terrace  which  looks  to  the  vineyard,  in  which, 
on  pedestals,  are  fixed  the  statues  of  all  the  Spanish 
kings  of  the  house  of  Austria.  The  opposite  walls  are 
painted  by  Rubens,  being  an  history  of  the  late  tumults 
in  Belgia:  in  the  last  piece,  the  Archduchess  shuts  a 
great  pair  of  gates  upon  Mars,  who  is  coming  out  of 
hell,  armed,  and  in  a  menacing  posture;  which,  with 
that  other  of  the  Infanta  taking  leave  of  Don  Philip  IV. , 
is  a  most  incomparable  table. 

From  hence,  we  walked  into  the  park,  which  for  being 
entirely  within  the  walls  of  the  city  is  particularly 
remarkable:  nor  is  it  less  pleasant  than  if  in  the  most 
3 


34  DIARY  OF  Brussels 

solitary  recesses;  so  naturally  is  it  furnished  with  what- 
ever may  render  it  agreeable,  melancholy,  and  country- 
like. Here  is  a  stately  heronry,  divers  springs  of  water, 
artificial  cascades,  rocks,  grots;  one  whereof  is  composed 
of  the  extravagant  roots  of  trees,  cunningly  built  and 
hung  together  with  wires.  In  this  park  are  both  fallow 
and  red  deer. 

From  hence,  we  were  led  into  the  Menage,  and  out  of 
that  into  a  most  sweet  and  delicious  garden,  where  was 
another  grot  of  more  neat  and  costly  materials,  full  of 
noble  statues,  and  entertaining  us  with  artificial  music; 
but  the  hedge  of  water,  in  form  of  lattice-work,  which 
the  fountaineer  caused  to  ascend  out  of  the  earth  by 
degrees,  exceedingly  pleased  and  surprised  me;  for  thus, 
with  a  pervious  wall,  or  rather  a  palisade  hedge  of  water, 
was  the  whole  parterre  environed. 

There  is  likewise  a  fair  aviary;  and  in  the  court  next 
it  are  kept  divers  sorts  of  animals,  rare  and  exotic  fowl, 
as  eagles,  cranes,  storks,  bustards,  pheasants  of  several 
kinds,  and  a  duck  having  four  wings.  In  another  divis- 
ion of  the  same  close  are  rabbits  of  an  almost  perfect 
yellow  color. 

There  was  no  Court  now  in  the  palace;  the  Infante 
Cardinal,  who  was  the  Governor  of  Flanders,  being  dead 
but  newly,  and  every  one  in  deep  mourning. 

At  near  eleven  o'clock,  I  repaired  to  his  Majesty's 
agent,  Sir  Henry  de  Vic,  who  very  courteously  received 
me,  and  accommodated  me  with  a  coach  and  six  horses, 
which  carried  me  from  Brussels  to  Ghent,  where  it  was 
to  meet  my  Lord  of  Arundel,  Earl  Marshal  of  England, 
who  had  requested  me  when  I  was  at  Antwerp  to  send 
it  for  him,  if  I  went  not  thither  myself. 

Thus  taking  leave  of  Brussels  and  a  sad  Court,  yet  full 
of  gallant  persons  (for  in  this  small  city,  the  acquaintance 
being  universal,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  I  perceived  had 
great  diversions,  and  frequent  meetings),  I  hastened 
toward  Ghent.  On  the  way,  I  met  with  divers  little  wagons, 
prettily  contrived,  and  full  of  peddling  merchandise, 
drawn  by  mastiff  dogs,  harnessed  completely  like  so  many 
coach  horses;  in  some  four,  in  others  six,  as  in  Brussels 
itself  I  had  observed.  In  Antwerp  I  saw,  as  I  remember, 
four  dogs  draw  five  lusty  children  in  a  chariot :  the  master 
commands    them    whither   he   pleases,    crying  his  wares 


1641  JOHN  EVELYN  35 

about  the  streets.  After  passing  through  Ouse,  by  six  in 
the  evening,  I  arrived  at  Ghent,  This  is  a  city  of  so  great 
a  circumference,  that  it  is  reported  to  be  seven  leagues 
round;  but  there  is  not  half  of  it  now  built,  much  of  it 
remaining  in  fields  and  desolate  pastures  even  within  the 
walls,  which  have  strong  gates  toward  the  west,  and  two 
fair  churches. 

Here  I  beheld  the  palace  wherein  John  of  Gaunt  and 
Charles  V.  were  born ;  whose  statue*  stands  in  the  market- 
place, upon  a  high  pillar,  with  his  sword  drawn,  to  which 
(as  I  was  told)  the  magistrates  and  burghers  were  wont  to 
repair  upon  a  certain  day  every  year  with  ropes  about 
their  necks,  in  token  of  submission  and  penance  for  an  old 
rebellion  of  theirs;  but  now  the  hemp  is  changed  into  a 
blue  ribbon.  Here  is  planted  the  basilisco,  or  great  gun, 
so  much  talked  of.  The  Lys  and  the  Scheldt  meeting  in 
this  vast  city,  divide  it  into  twenty-six  islands,  which  are 
united  by  many  bridges,  somewhat  resembling  Venice. 
This  night  I  supped  with  the  Abbot  of  Andoyne,  a  pleas- 
ant and  courteous  priest. 

8th  October,  1641.  I  passed  by  a  boat  to  Bruges,  taking 
in  at  a  redoubt  a  convoy  of  fourteen  musketeers,  because 
the  other  side  of  the  river,  being  Contribution-land,  was 
subject  to  the  inroads  and  depredations  of  the  bordering 
States.  This  river  was  cut  by  the  famous  Marquis  Spi- 
nola,  and  is  in  my  judgment  a  wonderful  piece  of  labor, 
and  a  worthy  public  work,  being  in  some  places  forced 
through  the  main  rock,  to  an  incredible  depth,  for  thirty 
miles.  At  the  end  of  each  mile  is  built  a  small  redoubt, 
which  communicates  a  line  to  the  next,  and  so  the  whole 
way,  from  whence  we  received  many  volleys  of  shot,  in 
compliment  to  my  Lord  Marshal,  who  was  in  our  vessel, 
a  passenger  with  us.  At  five  that  evening,  we  were  met 
by  the  magistrates  of  Bruges,  who  came  out  to  convey  my 
Lord  to  his  lodgings,  at  whose  cost  he  was  entertained 
that  night. 

The  morning  after  we  went  to  see  the  Stadt-house  and 
adjoining  aqueduct,  the  church,  and  market-place,  where 
we  saw  cheeses  and  butter  piled  up  in  heaps;  also  the 
fortifications  and  graffs,  which  are  extremely  large. 

The  9th,  we  arrived  at  Ostend  by  a  straight  and  arti- 
ficial river.     Here,  with  leave  of  the  captain  of  the  watch, 

*  That  of  Charles  V. 


36  DIARY   OF  cover 

I  was  carried  to  survey  the  river  and  harbor,  with  forti- 
fications on  one  side  thereof:  the  east  and  south  are  mud 
and  earth  walls.  It  is  a  very  strong  place,  and  lately 
stood  a  memorable  siege  three  years,  three  months,  three 
weeks,  and  three  days.  I  went  to  see  the  church  of  St. 
Peter,  and  the  cloisters  of  the  Franciscans. 

loth  October,  1641.  I  went  by  wagon,  accompanied  with 
a  jovial  commissary,  to  Dunkirk,  the  journey  being  made 
all  on  the  sea  sands.  On  our  arrival,  we  first  viewed  the 
court  of  guards,  the  works,  the  townhouse,  and  the  new 
church;  the  latter  is  very  beautiful  within;  and  another, 
wherein  they  showed  us  an  excellent  piece  of  **  Our  Sav- 
ior's Bearing  the  Cross.*  The  harbor,  in  two  channels, 
coming  up  to  the  town,  was  choked  with  a  multitude  of 
prizes. 

From  hence,  the  next  day,  I  marched  three  English 
miles  toward  the  packet  boat,  being  a  pretty  frigate  of 
six  gTins,  which  embarked  us  for  England  about  three  in 
the  afternoon. 

At  our  going  off,  the  fort,  against  which  our  pinnace 
anchored  saluted  my  Lord  Marshal  with  twelve  great 
guns,  which  we  answered  with  three.  Not  having  the 
wind  favorable,  we  anchored  that  night  before  Calais. 
About  midnight,  we  weighed;  and,  at  four  in  the  morn- 
ing, though  not  far  from  Dover,  we  could  not  make  the 
pier  till  four  that  afternoon,  the  wind  proving  contrary 
and  driving  us  westward:  but  at  last  we  got  on  shore, 
October  the  12th. 

From  Dover,  I  that  night  rode  post  to  Canterbury. 
Here  I  visited  the  cathedral,  then  in  great  splendor;  those 
famous  windows  being  entire,  since  demolished  by  the 
fanatics.  The  next  morning  by  Sittingbourne,  I  came  to 
Rochester,  and  thence  to  GraveSend,  where  a  light-horse- 
man ( as  they  call  it )  taking  us  in,  we  spent  our  tide  as 
far  as  Greenwich.  From  hence,  after  we  had  a  little  re- 
freshed ourselves  at  the  College  ( for  by  reason  of  con- 
tagion then  in  London  we  balked  the  inns ),  we  came  to 
London,  landing  at  Arundel  stairs.  Here  I  took  leave  of 
his  Lordship,  and  retired  to  my  lodgings  in  the  Middle 
Temple,  being  about  two  in  the  morning,  the  14th  of 
October. 

1 6th  October,  1641.  I  went  to  see  my  brother  at  Wot- 
ton.     On  the   31st   of   that   month    (unfortunate   for   the 


1641-42  JOHN  EVELYN  37 

Irish  Rebellion,  which  broke  out  on  the  23d),  I  was  one 
and  twenty  years  of  age. 

7th  November,  1641.  After  receiving  the  Sacrament  at 
Wotton  church,  I  visited  my    Lord    Marshal  at  Albury. 

23d  November,  1641.  I  returned  to  London;  and,  on 
the  25th,  saw  his  Majesty  ride  through  the  City  after 
his  coming  out  of  Scotland,  and  a  Peace  proclaimed,  with 
great  acclamations  and  joy  of  the  giddy  people. 

15th  December,  1641.  I  was  elected  one  of  the  Comp- 
trollers of  the  Middle  Temple  revellers,  as  the  fashion  of 
the  young  students  and  gentlemen  was,  the  Christmas 
being  kept  this  year  w*ith  great  solemnity;  but,  being 
desirous  to  pass  it  in  the  country,  I  got  leave  to  resign 
my  stafif  of  office,  and  went  with  my  brother  Richard  to 
Wotton. 

loth  January,  1642.  I  gave  a  visit  to  my  cousin  Hatton, 
of  .Ditton. 

19th  January,  1642.  I  went  to  London,  where  I  stayed 
till  5th  of  March,  studying  a  little,  but  dancing  and  fool- 
ing more. 

3d  October,  1642.  To  Chichester,  and  hence  the  next 
day  to  see  the  siege  of  Portsmouth;  for  now  was  that 
bloody  difference  between  the  King  and  Parliament 
broken  out,  which  ended  in  the  fatal  tragedy  so  many 
years  after.  It  was  on  the  day  of  its  being  rendered  to 
Sir  William  Waller;  which  gave  me  an  opportunity  of 
taking  my  leave  of  Colonel  Goring,  the  governor,  now 
embarking  for  France.  This  day  was  fought  that  signal 
battle  at  Edgehill.  Thence  I  went  to  Southampton  and 
Winchester,  where  I  visited  the  castle,  school,  church, 
and  King  Arthur's  Round  Table;  but  especially  the 
church,  and  its  Saxon  kings'  monuments,  which  I  esteemed 
a  worthy  antiquity. 

The  12th  of  November  was  the  battle  of  Brentford,  sur- 
prisingly fought;  and  to  the  great  consternation  of  the 
City,  had  his  Majesty  (as  it  was  believed  he  would) 
pursued  his  advantage.  I  came  in  with  my  horse  and 
arms  just  at  the  retreat;  but  was  not  permitted  to  stay 
longer  than  the  15th,  by  reason  of  the  army  marching 
to  Gloucester;  which  would  have  left  both  me  and  my 
brothers  exposed  to  ruin,  without  any  advantage  to  his 
Majesty. 

7th  December,  1642.     I  went  from  Wotton  to  London, 


38  DIARY  OF  London 

to  see  the  so  much  celebrated  line  of  communication, 
and  on  the  loth  returned  to  Wotton,  nobody  knowing  of 
my  having  been  in  his  Majesty's  army. 

loth  March,  1643.  I  went  to  Hartingford-berry  to  visit 
my  cousin,  Keightly. 

nth  March,  1643.  I  went  to  see  my  Lord  of  Salis- 
bury's Palace  at  Hatfield,  where  the  most  considerable 
rarity,  besides  the  house  (inferior  to  few  then  in  England 
for  its  architecture),  were  the  garden  and  vineyard,  rarely 
well  watered  and  planted.  They  also  showed  us  the  pic- 
ture of  Secretary  Cecil,  in  Mosaic  work,  very  well  done 
by  some  Italian  hand. 

I  must  not  forget  what  amazed  us  exceedingly  in  the 
night  before,  namely,  a  shining  cloud  in  the  air,  in  shape 
resembling  a  sword,  the  point  reaching  to  the  north;  it 
was  as  bright  as  the  moon,  the  rest  of  the  sky  being 
very  serene.  It  began  about  eleven  at  night,  and  van- 
ished not  till  above  one,  being  seen  by  all  the  south  of 
England.     I   made   many  journeys  to  and  from  London. 

15th  April,  1643.  To  Hatfield,  and  near  the  town  of 
Hertford  I  went  to  see  Sir  J.  Harrison's  house  new  built. 
Returning  to  London,  I  called  to  see  his  Majesty's  house 
and  gardens  at  Theobald's,  since  demolished  by  the 
rebels. 

2d  May,  1643.  I  went  from  Wotton  to  London,  where 
I  saw  the  furious  and  zealous  people  demolish  that  stately 
Cross  in  Cheapside. 

On  the  4th  I  returned,  with  no  little  regret,  for  the 
confusion  that  threatened  us.  Resolving  to  possess  my- 
self in  some  quiet,  if  it  might  be,  in  a  time  of  so  great 
jealousy,  I  built  by  my  brother's  permission,  a  study, 
made  a  fish-pond,  an  island,  and  some  other  solitudes 
and  retirements  at  Wotton ;  which  gave  the  first  occasion 
of  improving  them  to  those  waterworks  and  gardens  which 
afterward  succeeded  them,  and  became  at  that  time  the 
most  famous  of  England. 

1 2th  July,  1643.  I  sent  my  black  menage  horse  and 
furniture   with  a   friend  to  his  Majesty,    then  at  Oxford. 

23d  July,  1643.  The  Covenant  being  pressed,  I  ab- 
sented myself;  but,  finding  it  impossible  to  evade  the 
doing  very  unhandsome  things,  and  which  had  been  a 
great  cause  of  my  perpetual  motions  hitherto  between 
Wotton     and     London,    October     the    2d,    I    obtained   a 


i643  JOHN  EVELYN  39 

license  of  his  Majesty,  dated  at  Oxford  and  signed  by  the 
King,  to  travel  again. 

6th  November,  1643.  Lying  by  the  way  from  Wotton 
at  Sir  Ralph  Whitfield's,  at  Blechingley  (whither  both  my 
brothers  had  conducted  me),  I  arrived  at  London  on  the 
7th,  and  two  days  after  took  boat  at  the  Tower-wharf, 
which  carried  me  as  far  as  Sittingboume,  though  not 
without  danger,  I  being  only  in  a  pair  of  oars,  exposed 
to  a  hideous  storm:  but  it  pleased  God  that  we  got  in 
before  the  peril  was  considerable.  From  thence,  I  went 
by  post  to  Dover,  accompanied  with  one  Mr.  Thicknesse, 
a  very  dear   friend  of  mine. 

nth  November,  1643.  Having  a  reasonable  good 
passage,  though  the  weather  was  snowy  and  untoward 
enough,  we  came  before  Calais,  where,  as  we  went  on 
shore,  mistaking  the  tide,  our  shallop  struck  on  the  sands, 
with  no  little  danger;   but  at  length  we  got  off. 

Calais  is  considered  an  extraordinary  well-fortified 
place,  in  the  old  castle  and  new  citadel  regarding  the 
sea.  The  haven  consists  of  a  long  bank  of  sand,  lying 
opposite  to  it.  The  market  place  and  the  church  are  re- 
markable things,  besides  those  relics  of  our  former  domin- 
ion there.  I  remember  there  were  engraven  in  stone, 
upon  the  front  of  an  ancient  dwelling  which  was  showed 
us,  these  words  in  English  — "  God  save  the  King,  *  to- 
gether with  the  name  of  the  architect  and  date.  The 
walls  of  the  town  are  substantial;  but  the  situation  to- 
ward the  land  is  not  pleasant,  by  reason  of  the  marshes 
and  low  grounds  about  it. 

12th  November,  1643.  After  dinner  we  took  horse 
with  the  Messagere,  hoping  to  have  arrived  at  Boulogne 
that  night;  but  there  fell  so  great  a  snow,  accompanied 
with  hail,  rain,  and  sudden  darkness,  that  we  had  much 
ado  to  gain  the  next  village;  and  in  this  passage,  being 
to  cross  a  valley  by  a  causeway,  and  a  bridge  built  over 
a  small  river,  the  rain  that  had  fallen  making  it  an  im- 
petuous stream  for  near  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  my  horse 
slipping  had  almost  been  the  occasion  of  my  perishing. 
"We  none  of  us  went  to  bed;  for  the  soldiers  in  those 
parts  leaving  little  in  the  villages,  we  had  enough  to  do 
to  get  ourselves  dry,  by  morning,  between  the  fire  and 
the  fresh  straw.  The  next  day  early,  we  arrived  at  Bou- 
logne. 


40  DIARY  OF  ST.  denis 

^his  is  a  double  town,  one  part  of  it  situate  on  a  high 
rock,  or  downs ;  the  other,  called  the  lower  town,  is  yet 
with  a  great  declivity  toward  the  sea;  both  of  them  de- 
fended by  a  strong  castle,  which  stands  on  a  notable 
eminence.  Under  the  town  runs  the  river,  which  is  yet 
but  an  inconsiderable  brook.  Henry  VIII.,  in  the  siege  of 
this  place  is  said  to  have  used  those  great  leathern  guns 
which  I  have  since  beheld  in  the  Tower  of  London,  in- 
scribed, *-'•  Non  Marte  opus  est  cui  non  deficit  Mercurius^'* ; 
if  at  least  the  history  be  true,  which  my  Lord  Herbert 
doubts. 

The  next  morning,  in  some  danger  of  parties  [Spanish] 
surprising  us,  we  came  to  Montreuil,  built  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  most  conspicuous  hill,  environed  with  fair  and 
ample  meadows ;  but  all  the  suburbs  had  been  from  time 
to  time  ruined,  and  were  now  lately  burnt  by  the  Span- 
ish inroads.  This  town  is  fortified  with  two  very  deep 
dry  ditches;  the  walls  about  the  bastions  and  citadel  are 
a  noble  piece  of  masonry.  The  church  is  more  glori- 
ous without  than  within ;  the  market  place  large ;  but  the 
inhabitants  are  miserably  poor.  The  next  day,  we  came 
to  Abbeville,  having  passed  all  this  way  in  continual  ex- 
pectation of  the  volunteers,  as  they  call  them.  This 
town  affords  a  good  aspect  toward  the  hill  from  whence 
we  descended:  nor  does  it  deceive  us;  for  it  is  hand- 
somely built,  and  has  many  pleasant  and  useful  streams 
passing  through  it,  the  main  river  being  the  Somme, 
which  discharges  itself  into  the  sea  at  St.  Valery,  al- 
most in  view  of  the  town.  The  principal  church  is  a 
very  handsome  piece  of  Gothic  architecture,  and  the 
ports  and  ramparts  sweetly  planted  for  defense  and  or- 
nament. In  the  morning,  they  brought  us  choice  of 
guns  and  pistols  to  sell  at  reasonable  rates,  and 
neatly  made,  being  here  a  merchandise  of  great  account, 
the  town  abounding  in   gunsmiths. 

Hence  we  advanced  to  Beauvais,  another  town  of  good 
note,  and  having  the  first  vineyards  we  had  seen.  The 
next  day  to  Beaumont,  and  the  morrow  to  Paris,  having 
taken  our  repast  at  St.  Denis,  two  leagues  from  that  great 
city.  St.  Denis  is  considerable  only  for  its  stately  cathe- 
dral, and  the  dormitory  of  the  French  kings,  there  inhumed 
as  ours  at  Westminster  Abbey.  The  treasury  is  esteemed 
one  of  the  richest  in  Europe.     The  church  was  built  by 


i643  JOHN   EVELYN  41 

King  Dagobert,*  but  since  much  enlarged,  being  now  390 
feet  long,  100  in  breadth,  and  80  in  height,  without  com- 
prehending the  cover:  it  has  also  a  very  high  shaft  of 
stone,  and  the  gates  are  of  brass.  Here,  while  the  monks 
conducted  us,  we  were  showed  the  ancient  and  modem 
sepulchers  of  their  kings,  beginning  with  the  founder  to 
Louis  his  son,  with  Charles  Martel  and  Pepin,  son  and 
father  of  Charlemagne.  These  lie  in  the  choir,  and  without 
it  are  many  more:  among  the  rest  that  of  Bertrand  du 
Guesclin,  Constable  of  France ;  in  the  chapel  of  Charles  V. , 
all  his  posterity ;  and  near  him  the  magnificent  sepulcher 
of  Francis  I.,  with  his  children,  wars,  victories,  and  triumphs 
engraven  in  marble.  In  the  nave  of  the  church  lies  the 
catafalque,  or  hearse,  of  Louis  XIII.,  Henry  II.,  a  noble 
tomb  of  Francis  II. ,  and  Charles  IX.  Above  are  bodies  of 
several  Saints;  below,  under  a  state  of  black  velvet,  the 
late  Louis  XIII.,  father  of  this  present  monarch.  Every 
one  of  the  ten  chapels,  or  oratories,  had  some  Saints  in 
them;  among  the  rest,  one  of  the  Holy  Innocents.  The 
treasury  is  kept  in  the  sacristy  above,  in  which  are  crosses 
of  massy  gold  and  silver,  studded  with  precious  stones,  one 
of  gold  three  feet  high,  set  with  sapphires,  rubies,  and  great 
oriental  pearls.  Another  given  by  Charles  the  Great, 
having  a  noble  amethyst  in  the  middle  of  it,  stones  and 
pearls  of  inestimable  value.  Among  the  still  more  valu- 
able relics  are,  a  nail  from  our  Savior's  Cross,  in  a  box  of 
gold  full  of  precious  stones;  a  crucifix  of  the  true  wood  of 
the  Cross,  carved  by  Pope  Clement  III.,  enchased  in  a 
crystal  covered  with  gold;  a  box  in  which  is  some  of  the 
Virgin's  hair;  some  of  the  linen  in  which  our  blessed 
Savior  was  wrapped  at  his  nativity;  in  a  huge  reliquary, 
modeled  like  a  church,  some  of  our  Savior's  blood,  hair, 
clothes,  linen  with  which  he  wiped  the  Apostles'  feet ;  with 
many  other  equally  authentic  toys,  which  the  friar  who 
conducted  us  would  have  us  believe  were  authentic  relics. 
Among  the  treasures  is  the  crown  of  Charlemagne,  his 
seven-foot  high  scepter  and  hand  of  justice,  the  agraflfe  of 
his  royal  mantle,  beset  with  diamonds  and  rubies,  his 
sword,  belt,  and  spurs  of  gold;  the  crown  of  St.  Louis, 
covered  with  precious  stones,  among  which  is  one  vast  ruby, 
uncut,  of  inestimable  value,  weighing  300  carats  (under 
which  is  set  one  of  the  thorns  of  our  blessed  Savior's 
♦A.  D.  630. 


42  DIARY  OF  ST.  denis 

crown),  his  sword,  seal,  and  hand  of  justice.  The  two 
crowns  of  Henry  IV.,  his  scepter,  hand  of  justice,  and 
spurs.  The  two  crowns  of  his  son  Louis.  In  the  cloak- 
royal  of  Anne  of  Bretagne  is  a  very  great  and  rare  ruby. 
Divers  books  covered  with  solid  plates  of  gold,  and 
studded  with  precious  stones.  Two  vases  of  beryl,  two 
of  agate,  whereof  one  is  esteemed  for  its  bigness,  color, 
and  embossed  carving,  the  best  now  to  be  seen:  by  a 
special  favor  I  was  permitted  to  take  the  measure  and 
dimensions  of  it;  the  story  is  a  Bacchanalia  and  sacrifice 
to  Priapus ;  a  very  holy  thing  truly,  and  fit  for  a  cloister ! 
It  is  really  antique,  and  the  noblest  jewel  there.  There 
is  also  a  large  gondola  of  chrysolite,  a  huge  urn  of  por- 
phyry, another  of  calcedon,  a  vase  of  onyx,  the  largest  I 
had  ever  seen  of  that  stone;  two  of  crystal;  a  morsel  of 
one  of  the  waterpots  in  which  our  Savior  did  his  first 
miracle;  the  effigies  of  the  Queen  of  Saba,  of  Julius, 
Augustus,  Mark  Antony,  Cleopatra,  and  others,  upon 
sapphires,  topazes,  agates,  and  cornelians:  that  of  the 
queen  of  Saba*  has  a  Moorish  face;  those  of  Julius  and 
Nero  on  agates  are  rarely  colored  and  cut.  A  cup  in 
which  Solomon  was  used  to  drink,  and  an  Apollo  on  a 
great  amethyst.  There  lay  in  a  window  a  mirror  of  a 
kind  of  stone  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  poet  Virgil. 
Charlemagne's  chessmen,  full  of  Arabic  characters.  In 
the  press  next  the  door,  the  brass  lantern  full  of  crystals, 
said  to  have  conducted  Judas  and  his  company  to  appre- 
hend our  blessed  Savior.  A  fair  unicorn's  horn,  sent  by 
a  king  of  Persia,  about  seven  feet  long.  In  another 
press  (over  which  stands  the  picture  in  oil  of  their 
Orleans  Amazon  with  her  sword),  the  effigies  of  the  late 
French  kings  in  wax,  like  ours  in  Westminster,  covered 
with  their  robes ;  with  a  world  of  other  rarities.  Having 
rewarded  our  courteous  friar,  we  took  horse  for  Paris, 
where  we  arrived  about  five  in  the  afternoon.  In  the 
way  were  fair  crosses  of  stone  carved  with  fleur-de-lis  at 
every  furlong's  end,  where  they  affirm  St.  Denis  rested 
and  laid  down  his  head  after  martyrdom,  carrying  it 
from  the  place  where  this  monastery  is  builded.  We  lay 
at  Paris  at  the  Ville  de  Venice ;  where,  after  I  had  some- 
thing refreshed,  I  went  to  visit  Sir  Richard  Browne,  his 
Majesty's  Resident  with  the  French  king. 
*OrSheba. 


1643  JOHN  EVELYN  43 

5th  December,  1643.  The  Earl  of  Norwich  came  as  Am- 
bassador extraordinary :  I  went  to  meet  him  in  a  coach  and 
six  horses,  at  the  palace  of  Monsieur  de  Bassompifere, 
where  I  saw  that  gallant  person,  his  gardens,  terraces,  and 
rare  prospects.  My  lord  was  waited  on  by  the  master  of 
the  ceremonies,  and  a  very  great  cavalcade  of  men  of 
quality,  to  the  Palais  Cardinal,  where  on  the  23d  he  had 
audience  of  the  French  king,  and  the  queen  Regent  his 
mother,  in  the  golden  chamber  of  presence.  From  thence, 
I  conducted  him  to  his  lodgings  in  Rue  St.  Denis,  and 
so  took  my  leave. 

24th  December,  1643.  I  went  with  some  company  to 
see  some  remarkable  places  without  the  city:  as  the  Isle, 
and  how  it  is  encompassed  by  the  Rivers  Seine  and  the 
Ouse.  The  city  is  divided  into  three  parts,  whereof  the 
town  is  greatest.  The  city  lies  between  it  and  the  Uni- 
versity in  form  of  an  island.  Over  the  Seine  is  a  stately 
bridge  called  Pont  Neuf,  begun  by  Henry  III.  in  1578, 
finished  by  Henry  IV.  his  successor.  It  is  all  of  hewn 
freestone  found  under  the  streets,  but  more  plentifully  at 
Montmartre,  and  consists  of  twelve  arches,  in  the  midst 
of  which  ends  the  point  of  an  island,  on  which  are  built 
handsome  artificers'  houses.  There  is  one  large  passage 
for  coaches,  and  two  for  foot  passengers  three  or  four  feet 
higher,  and  of  convenient  breadth  for  eight  or  ten  to  go 
abreast.  On  the  middle  of  this  stately  bridge,  on  one 
side,  stands  the  famous  statue  of  Henry  the  Great  on 
horseback,  exceeding  the  natural  proportion  by  much ;  and, 
on  the  four  faces  of  a  stately  pedestal  (which  is  composed 
of  various  sorts  of  polished  marbles  and  rich  moldings), 
inscriptions  of  his  victories  and  most  signal  actions  are 
engraven  in  brass.  The  statue  and  horse  are  of  copper, 
the  work  of  the  great  John  di  Bologna,  and  sent  from 
Florence  by  Ferdinand  the  First,  and  Cosmo  the  Second, 
imcle  and  cousin  to  Mary  de  Medicis,  the  wife  of  King 
Henry,  whose  statue  it  represents.  The  place  where  it  is 
erected  is  inclosed  with  a  strong  and  beautiful  grate  of 
iron,  about  which  there  are  always  mountebanks  showing 
their  feats  to  the  idle  passengers.  From  hence  is  a  rare 
prospect  toward  the  Louvre  and  suburbs  of  St.  Germains, 
the  Isle  du  Palais,  and  Notre  Dame.  At  the  foot  of  this 
bridge  is  a  water-house,  on  the  front  whereof,  at  a  great 
height,  is  the   story  of   Our    Savior   and    the    woman   of 


44  DIARY  OF  paris 

Samaria  pouring  water  out  of  a  bucket.  Above,  is  a  very- 
rare  dial  of  several  motions,  with  a  chime,  etc.  The  water 
is  conveyed  by  huge  wheels,  pumps,  and  other  engines, 
from  the  river  beneath.  The  confluence  of  the  people 
and  multitude  of  coaches  passing  every  moment  over 
the  bridge,  to  a  new  spectator  is  an  agreeable  diversion. 
Other  bridges  there  are,  as  that  of  Notre  Dame  and  the 
Pont-au-Change,  etc.,  fairly  built,  with  houses  of  stone, 
which  are  laid  over  this  river;  only  the  Pont  St.  Anne, 
landing  the  suburbs  of  St.  Germains  at  the  Tuileries,  is 
built  of  wood,  having  likewise  a  water  house  in  the  midst 
of  it,  and  a  statue  of  Neptune  casting  water  out  of  a 
whale's  mouth,  of  lead,  but  much  inferior  to  the  Samaritan. 

The  University  lies  southwest  on  higher  ground,  con- 
tiguous to,  but  the  lesser  part  of,  Paris.  They  reckon  no 
less  than  sixty-five  colleges ;  but  they  in  nothing  approach 
ours  at  Oxford  for  state  and  order.  The  booksellers  dwell 
within  the  University.  The  schools  (of  which  more  here- 
after) are  very  regular. 

The  suburbs  are  those  of  St.  Denis,  Honor^,  St.  Marcel, 
St.  Jaques,  St.  Michael,  St.  Victoire,  and  St.  Germains, 
which  last  is  the  largest,  and  where  the  nobility  and 
persons  of  best  quality  are  seated:  and  truly  Paris,  com- 
prehending the  suburbs,  is,  for  the  material  the  houses 
are  built  with,  and  many  noble  and  magnificent  piles, 
one  of  the  most  gallant  cities  in  the  world;  large  in 
circuit,  of  a  round  form,  very  populous,  but  situated  in 
a  bottom,  environed  with  gentle  declivities,  rendering 
some  places  very  dirty,  and  making  it  smell  as  if  sulphur 
were  mingled  with  the  mud;  yet  it  is  paved  with  a  kind 
of  freestone,  of  near  a  foot  square,  which  renders  it 
more  easy  to  walk  on  than  our  pebbles  in  London. 

On  Christmas  eve,  I  went  to  see  the  Cathedral  at  Notre 
Dame,  erected  by  Philip  Augustus,  but  begun  by  King 
Robert,  son  of  Hugh  Capet.  It  consists  of  a  Gothic 
fabric,  sustained  with  120  pillars,  which  make  two  aisles 
in  the  church  round  about  the  choir,  without  comprehend- 
ing the  chapels,  being  174  paces  long,  60  wide,  and  100 
high.  The  choir  is  inclosed  with  stonework  graven  with 
the  sacred  history,  and  contains  forty-five  chapels  chan- 
celled  with  iron.  At  the  front  of  the  chief  entrance  are 
statues  in  relievo  of  the  kings,  twenty-eight  in  number, 
from  Childebert  to  the  founder,  Philip;  and  above  them 


1643-44  JOHN   EVELYN  45 

are  two  high  square  towers,  and  another  of  a  smaller  size, 
bearing  a  spire  in  the  middle,  where  the  body  of  the 
church  forms  a  cross.  The  great  tower  is  ascended  by 
389  steps,  having  twelve  galleries  from  one  to  the  other. 
They  greatly  reverence  the  crucifix  over  the  screen  of 
the  choir,  with  an  image  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.  There 
are  some  good  modern  paintings  hanging  on  the  pillars. 
The  most  conspicuous  statute  is  the  huge  colossal  one  of 
St.  Christopher ;  with  divers  other  figures  of  men,  houses, 
prospects  and  rocks,  about  this  gigantic  piece;  being  of 
one  stone,  and  more  remarkable  for  its  bulk  than  any 
other  perfection.  This  is  the  prime  church  of  France  for 
dignity,  having  archdeacons,  vicars,  canons,  priests,  and 
chaplains  in  good  store,  to  the  number  of  127.  It  is  also 
the  palace  of  the  archbishop.  The  young  king  was  there 
with  a  great  and  martial  gfuard,  who  entered  the  nave 
of  the  church  with  drums  and  fifes,  at  the  ceasing  of 
which  I  was  entertained  with  the  church  music;  and  so 
I  left  him. 

4th  January,  1644.  I  passed  this  day  with  one  Mr.  J. 
Wall,  an  Irish  gentleman,  who  had  been  a  friar  in  Spain, 
and  afterward  a  reader  in  St.  Isodore's  chair,  at  Rome; 
but  was,  I  know  not  how,  getting  away,  and  pretending 
to  be  a  soldier  of  fortune,  an  absolute  cavalier,  having, 
as  he  told  us,  been  a  captain  of  horse  in  Germany.  It 
is  certain  he  was  an  excellent  disputant,  and  so 
strangely  given  to  it  that  nothing  could  pass  him.  He 
would  needs  persuade  me  to  go  with  him  this  morning 
to  the  Jesuits'  College,  to  witness  his  polemical  talent. 
We  found  the  Fathers  in  their  Church  at  the  Rue  St. 
Antoine,  where  one  of  them  showed  us  that  noble  fab- 
ric, which  for  its  cupola,  pavings,  incrustations  of  mar- 
ble, the  pulpit,  altars  (especially  the  high  altar),  organ, 
lavatorimn,  etc.,  but  above  all,  for  the  richly  carved  and 
incomparable  front  I  esteem  to  be  one  of  the  most  per- 
fect pieces  of  architecture  in  Europe,  emulating  even 
some  of  the  greatest  now  at  Rome  itself.  But  this  not 
being  what  our  friar  sought,  he  led  us  into  the  adjoin- 
ing convent,  where,  having  shown  us  the  library,  they 
began  a  very  hot  dispute  on  some  points  of  divinity, 
which  our  cavalier  contested  only  to  show  his  pride,  and 
to  that  indiscreet  height,  that  the  Jesuits  would  hardly 
bring  us  to  our  coach,  they  being  put  beside  all  patience. 


46  DIARY  OP  PARIS 

The  next  day,  we  went  into  the  University,  and  into  the 
College  of  Navarre,  which  is  a  spacious,  well-built  quad- 
rangle, having  a  very  noble  library. 

Thence  to  the  Sorbonne,  an  ancient  fabric  built  by  one 
Robert  de  Sorbonne,  whose  name  it  retains,  but  the  res- 
toration which  the  late  Cardinal  de  Richelieu  has  made 
to  it  renders  it  one  of  the  most  excellent  modem  build- 
ings; the  sumptuous  church,  of  admirable  architecture,  is 
far  superior  to  the  rest.  The  cupola,  portico,  and  whole 
design  of  the  church,  are  very  magnificent. 

We  entered  into  some  of  the  schools,  and  in  that  of 
divinity  we  found  a  grave  Doctor  in  his  chair,  with  a 
multitude  of  auditors,  who  all  write  as  he  dictates;  and 
this  they  call  a  Course.  After  we  had  sat  a  little,  our 
cavalier  started  up,  and  rudely  enough  began  to  dispute 
with  the  doctor;  at  which,  and  especially  as  he  was  clad 
in  the  Spanish  habit,  which  in  Paris  is  the  greatest  bug- 
bear imaginable,  the  scholars  and  doctor  fell  into  such  a 
fit  of  laughter,  that  nobody  could  be  heard  speak  for  a 
while:  but  silence  being  obtained,  he  began  to  speak 
Latin,  and  made  his  apology  in  so  good  a  style,  that 
their  derision  was  turned  to  admiration;  and  beginning 
to  argue,  he  so  baffled  the  Professor,  that  with  universal 
applause  they  all  rose  up,  and  did  him  great  honors, 
waiting  on  us  to  the  very  street  and  our  coach,  and  tes- 
tifying great  satisfaction. 

2d  February,  1644.  I  heard  the  news  of  my  nephew 
George's  birth,  which  was  on  January  15th,  English  style, 
1644. 

3d  February,  1644.  I  went  to  the  Exchange.  The 
late  addition  to  the  buildings  is  very  noble ;  but  the  gal- 
leries where  they  sell  their  petty  merchandise  nothing  so 
stately  as  ours  at  London,  no  more  than  the  place  where 
they  walk  below,  being  only  a  low  vault. 

The  Palaise,  as  they  call  the  upper  part,  was  built  in 
the  time  of  Philip  the  Fair,  noble  and  spacious.  The 
great  Hall  annexed  to  it,  is  arched  with  stone,  having  a 
range  of  pillars  in  the  middle,  round  which,  and  at  the 
sides,  are  shops  of  all  kinds,  especially  booksellers*.  One 
side  is  full  of  pews  for  the  clerks  of  the  advocates,  who 
swarm  here  (as  ours  at  Westminster).  At  one  of  the  ends 
stands  an  altar,  at  which  mass  is  said  daily.  Within  are 
several  chambers,  courts,    treasuries,  etc.     Above  that  is 


i644  JOHN    EVELYN  47 

the  most  rich  and  glorious  Salle  d 'Audience,  the  chamber 
of  St.  Louis,  and  other  superior  Courts  where  the  Par- 
liament sits,  richly  gilt  on  embossed  carvings  and  frets, 
and  exceedingly  beautified. 

Within  the  place  where  they  sell  their  wares,  is  another 
narrower  gallery,  full  of  shops  and  toys,  etc.,  which  looks 
down  into  the  prison-yard.  Descending  by  a  large  pair 
of  stairs,  we  passed  by  Sainte  Chapelle,  which  is  a  church 
built  by  St.  Louis,  1242,  after  the  Gothic  manner:  it 
stands  on  another  church,  which  is  under  it,  sustained 
by  pillars  at  the  sides,  which  seem  so  weak  as  to  appear 
extraordinary  in  the  artist.  This  chapel  is  most  famous 
for  its  relics,  having  as  they  pretend,  almost  the  entire 
crown  of  thorns:  the  agate  patine,  rarely  sculptured, 
judged  one  of  the  largest  and  best  in  Europe.  There 
was  now  a  very  beautiful  spire  erecting.  The  court  be- 
low is  very  spacious,  capable  of  holding  many  coaches, 
and  surrounded  with  shops,  especially  engravers',  gold- 
smiths', and  watchmakers'.  In  it  are  a  fair  fountain  and 
portico.  The  Isle  du  Palais  consists  of  a  triangular  brick 
building,  whereof  one  side,  looking  to  the  river,  is  inhab- 
ited by  goldsmiths.  Within  the  court  are  private  dwell- 
ings. The  front,  looking  on  the  great  bridge,  is  possessed 
by  mountebanks,  operators,  and  puppet-players.  On  the 
other  part,  is  the  every  day's  market  for  all  sorts  of  pro- 
visions, especially  bread,  herbs,  flowers,  orange  trees, 
choice  shrubs.  Here  is  a  shop  called  Noah's  Ark,  where 
are  sold  all  curiosities,  natural  or  artificial,  Indian  or 
European,  for  luxury  or  use,  as  cabinets,  shells,  ivory, 
porcelain,  dried  fishes,  insects,  birds,  pictures,  and  a 
thousand  exotic  extravagances.  Passing  hence,  we  viewed 
the  port  Dauphine,  an  arch  of  excellent  workmanship; 
the  street  bearing  the  same  name,  is  ample  and  straight. 

4th  February,  1644.  I  went  to  see  the  Marais  de 
Temple,  where  are  a  noble  church  and  palace,  heretofore 
dedicated  to  the  Knights  Templar,  now  converted  to  a 
piazza,  not  much  unlike  ours  at  Covent  Garden ;  but  large 
and  not  so  pleasant,  though  built  all  about  with  divers 
considerable  palaces. 

The  Church  of  St.  Genevieve  is  a  place  of  great  devo- 
tion, dedicated  to  another  of  their  Amazons,  said  to  have 
delivered  the  city  from  the  English;  for  which  she  is 
esteemed    the   tutelary    saint   of    Paris.      It  stands   on  a 


48  DIARY   OF  Paris 

steep  eminence,  having  a  very  high  spire,  and  is  governed 
by  canons  regular.  At  the  Palais  Royal  Henry  IV.  built 
a  fair  quadrangle  of  stately  palaces,  arched  underneath. 
In  the  middle  of  a  spacious  area,  stands  on  a  noble 
pedestal  a  brazen  statue  of  Louis  XIII.,  which,  though 
made  in  imitation  of  that  in  the  Roman  capitol,  is 
nothing  so  much  esteemed  as  that  on  the  Pont  Neuf. 

The  hospital  of  the  Quinze-Vingts,  in  the  Rue  St. 
Honor6,  is  an  excellent  foundation;  but  above  all  is  the 
Hotel  Dieu  for  men  and  women,  near  Notre  Dame,  a 
princely,  pious,  and  expensive  structure.  That  of  the 
Charity  gave  me  great  satisfaction,  in  seeing  how  decently 
and  christianly  the  sick  people  are  attended,  even  to  deli- 
cacy. I  have  seen  them  served  by  noble  persons,  men  and 
women.  They  have  also  gardens,  walks,  and  fountains. 
Divers  persons  are  here  cut  for  the  stone,  with  great 
success,  yearly  in  May.  The  two  Chatelets  (supposed  to 
have  been  built  by  Julius  Caesar)  are  places  of  judicature 
in  criminal  causes;  to  which  is  a  strong  prison.  The 
courts  are  spacious  and  magnificent. 

8th  February,  1644.  I  took  coach  and  went  to  see  the 
famous  Jardine  Royale,  which  is  an  inclosure  walled  in, 
consisting  of  all  varieties  of  ground  for  planting  and  cul- 
ture of  medical  simples.  It  is  well  chosen,  having  in  it 
hills,  meadows,  wood  and  upland,  natural  and  artificial, 
and  is  richly  stored  with  exotic  plants.  In  the  middle  of 
the  parterre  is  a  fair  fountain.  There  is  a  very  fine 
house,  chapel,  laboratory,  orangery,  and  other  accom- 
modations for  the  President,  who  is  always  one  of  the 
king's  chief  physicians. 

From  hence,  we  went  to  the  other  side  of  the  town, 
and  to  some  distance  from  it,  to  the  Bois  de  Vincennes, 
going  by  the  Bastille,  which  is  the  fortress,  tower,  and 
magazine  of  this  great  city.  It  is  very  spacious  within, 
and  there  the  Grand  Master  of  the  artillery  has  his 
house,  with  fair  gardens  and  walks. 

The  Bois  de  Vincennes  has  in  it  a  square  and  noble 
castle,  with  magnificent  apartments,  fit  for  a  royal  court, 
not  forgetting  the  chapel.  It  is  the  chief  prison  for  per- 
sons of  quality.  About  it  there  is  a  park  walled  in,  full 
of  deer ;  and  in  one  part  there  is  a  grove  of  goodly  pine  trees. 

The  next  day,  I  went  to  see  the  Louvre  with  more 
attention,    its    several    courts    and    pavilions.        One     of 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  49 

the  quadrangles,  begun  by  Henry  IV.,  and  finished 
by  his  son  and  grandson,  is  a  superb,  but  mixed  struc- 
ture. The  cornices,  moldings,  and  compartments,  with 
the  insertion  of  several  colored  marbles,  have  been  of 
great  expense. 

We  went  through  the  long  gallery,  paved  with  white 
and  black  marble,  richly  fretted  and  painted  ^  fresco. 
The  front  looking  to  the  river,  though  of  rare  work  for 
the  carving,  yet  wants  of  that  magnificence  which  a 
plainer  and  truer  design  would  have  contributed  to  it. 

In  the  Cour  aux  Tuileries  is  a  princely  fabric;  the 
winding  geometrical  stone  stairs,  with  the  cupola,  I  take 
to  be  as  bold  and  noble  a  piece  of  architecture  as  an)'- 
in  Europe  of  the  kind.  To  this  is  a  corps  de  logis,  worthy 
of  so  great  a  prince.  Under  these  buildings,  through  a 
garden  in  which  is  an  ample  fountain,  was  the  king's 
printing  house,  and  that  famous  letter  so  much  esteemed. 
Here  I  bought  divers  of  the  classic  authors,  poets,  and 
others. 

We  returned  through  another  gallery,  larger,  but  not 
so  long,  where  hung  the  pictures  of  all  the  kings  and 
queens  and  prime  nobility  of  France. 

Descending  hence,  we  were  let  into  a  lower  very  large 
room,  called  the  Salle  des  Afitiques,  which  is  a  vaulted 
Cimelia,  destined  for  statues  only,  among  which  stands 
that  so  celebrated  Diana  of  the  Ephesians,  said  to  be  the 
same  which  uttered  oracles  in  that  renowned  Temple. 
Besides  these  colossean  figures  of  marble,  I  must  not 
forget  the  huge  globe  suspended  by  chains.  The  pav- 
ings, inlayings,  and  incrustations  of  this  Hall,  are  very 
rich. 

In  another  more  private  garden  toward  the  Queen's 
apartment  is  a  walk,  or  cloister,  under  arches,  whose  ter- 
race is  paved  with  stones  of  a  great  breadth;  it  looks 
toward  the  river,  and  has  a  pleasant  aviary,  fountain, 
stately  cypresses,  etc.  On  the  river  are  seen  a  prodigious 
number  of  barges  and  boats  of  g^eat  length,  full  of  hay, 
com,  wood,  wine,  and  other  commodities,  which  this  vast 
city  daily  consumes.  Under  the  long  gallery  we  have 
described,  dwell  goldsmiths,  painters,  statuaries,  and 
architects,  who  being  the  most  famous  for  their  art  in 
Christendom  have  stipends  allowed  them  by  the  King. 
Into  that  of  Monsieur  Saracin  we  entered,  who  was  then 
4 


50  DIARY  OF  st.  cloud 

molding  for  an  image  of  a  Madonna  to  be  cast  in  gold 
of  a  great  size  to  be  sent  by  the  Queen  Regent  to 
Loretto,  as  an  offering  for  the  birth  of  the  Dauphin,  now 
the  young  King. 

I  finished  this  day  with  a  walk  in  the  great  garden  of 
the  Tuileries,  rarely  contrived  for  privacy,  shade,  or 
company,  by  groves,  plantations  of  tall  trees,  especially 
that  in  the  middle,  being  of  elms,  the  other  of  mulberries ; 
and  that  labyrinth  of  cypresses;  not  omitting  the  noble 
hedges  of  pomegranates,  fountains,  fish-ponds,  and  an 
aviary;  but,  above  all,  the  artificial  echo,  redoubling  the 
words  so  distinctly;  and,  as  it  is  never  without  some  fair 
nymph  singing  to  its  gfrateful  returns ;  standing  at  one  of 
the  focuses,  which  is  under  a  tree  or  little  cabinet  of 
hedges,  the  voice  seems  to  descend  from  the  clouds;  at 
another,  as  if  it  was  underground.  This  being  at  the 
bottom  of  the  garden,  we  were  let  into  another,  which 
being  kept  with  all  imaginary  accurateness  as  to  the 
orangery,  precious  shrubs,  and  rare  fruits,  seemed  a  Par- 
adise. From  a  terrace  in  this  place  we  saw  so  many 
coaches,  as  one  would  hardly  think  could  be  maintained 
in  the  whole  city,  going,  late  as  it  was  in  the  year, 
toward  the  course,  which  is  a  place  adjoining,  of  near  an 
English  mile  long,  planted  with  four  rows  of  trees,  mak- 
ing a  large  circle  in  the  middle.  This  course  is  walled 
about,  near  breast  high,  with  squared  freestone,  and  has  a 
stately  arch  at  the  entrance,  with  sculpture  and  statues 
about  it,  built  by  Mary  di  Medicis.  Here  it  is  that  the 
gallants  and  ladies  of  the  Court  take  the  air  and  divert 
themselves,  as  with  us  in  Hyde  Park,  the  circle  being 
capable  of  containing  a  hundred  coaches  to  turn  commo- 
diously,  and  the  larger  of  the  plantations  for  five  or  six 
coaches  abreast. 

Returning  through  the  Tuileries,  we  saw  a  building  in 
which  are  kept  wild  beasts  for  the  King's  pleasure,  a 
bear,  a  wolf,  a  wild  boar,  a  leopard,  etc. 

27th  February,  1644.  Accompanied  with  some  English 
gentlemen,  we  took  horse  to  see  St.  Germains-en-Laye, 
a  stately  country  house  of  the  King,  some  five  leagues 
from  Paris.  By  the  way,  we  alighted  at  St.  Cloud, 
where,  on  an  eminence  near  the  river,  the  Archbishop  of 
Paris  has  a  garden,  for  the  house  is  not  very  consider- 
able, rarely  watered  and  furnished  with  fountains,  statues, 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  51 

and  groves;  the  walks  are  very  fair;  the  fountain  of 
Laocoon  is  in  a  large  square  pool,  throwing  the  water 
near  forty  feet  high,  and  having  about  it  a  multitude  of 
statues  and  basins,  and  is  a  surprising  object.  But  noth- 
ing is  more  esteemed  than  the  cascade  falling  from  the 
great  steps  into  the  lowest  and  longest  walk  from  the 
Mount  Parnassus,  which  consists  of  a  grotto,  or  shell- 
house,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  wherein  are  divers 
waterworks  and  contrivances  to  wet  the  spectators;  this 
is  covered  with  a  fair  cupola,  the  walls  painted  with  the 
Muses,  and  statues  placed  thick  about  it,  whereof  some 
are  antique  and  good.  In  the  upper  walks  are  two  per- 
spectives, seeming  to  enlarge  the  alleys,  and  in  this 
garden  are  many  other  ingenious  contrivances.  The 
palace,  as  I  said,  is  not  extraordinary.  The  outer  walls 
only  painted  h  fresco.  In  the  court  is  a  Volary,  and  the 
statues  of  Charles  IX.,  Henry  III.,  IV.,  and  Louis  XIII., 
on  horseback,  mezzo-relievo'd  in  plaster.  In  the  garden 
is  a  small  chapel;  and  under  shelter  is  the  figure  of 
Cleopatra,  taken  from  the  Belvidere  original,  with  others. 
From  the  terrace  above  is  a  tempest  well  painted;  and 
thence  an  excellent  prospect  toward  Paris,  the  meadows, 
and  river. 

At  an  inn  in  this  village  is  a  host  who  treats  all  the 
great  persons  in  princely  lodgings  for  furniture  and 
plate,  but  they  pay  well  for  it,  as  I  have  done.  Indeed, 
the  entertainment  is  very  splendid,  and  not  unreason- 
able, considering  the  excellent  manner  of  dressing  their 
meat,  and  of  the  service.  Here  are  many  debauches 
and  excessive  revelings,  as  being  out  of  all  noise  and 
observance. 

From  hence,  about  a  league  further,  we  went  to  see 
Cardinal  Richelieu's  villa,  at  Ruell.  The  house  is  small, 
but  fairly  built,  in  form  of  a  castle,  moated  round.  The 
offices  are  toward  the  road,  and  over  against  it  are  large 
vineyards,  walled  in.  But,  though  the  house  is  not  of 
the  greatest,  the  gardens  about  it  are  so  magnificent, 
that  I  doubt  whether  Italy  has  any  exceeding  it  for  all 
rarities  of  pleasure.  The  garden  nearest  the  pavilion 
is  a  parterre,  having  in  the  midst  divers  noble  brass 
statues,  perpetually  spouting  water  into  an  ample  basin, 
with  other  figures  of  the  same  metal;  but  what  is  most 
admirable  is  the   vast  inclosure,  and  variety  of  ground, 


52  DIARY   OF  ST.  germains 

in  the  large  garden,  containing  vineyards,  cornfields, 
meadows,  groves  (whereof  one  is  of  perennial  greens), 
and  walks  of  vast  length,  so  accurately  kept  and  culti- 
vated, that  nothing  can  be  more  ageeable.  On  one  of 
these  walks,  within  a  square  of  tall  trees,  is  a  basilisk 
of  copper,  which,  managed  by  the  fountaineer,  casts  water 
near  sixty  feet  high,  and  will  of  itself  move  round  so 
swiftly,  that  one  can  hardly  escape  wetting.  This  leads 
to  the  Citronifere,  which  is  a  noble  conserve  of  all  those 
rarities ;  and  at  the  end  of  it  is  the  Arch  of  Constantine, 
painted  on  a  wall  in  oil,  as  large  as  the  real  one  at 
Rome,  so  well  done,  that  even  a  man  skilled  in  paint- 
ing, may  mistake  it  for  stone  and  sculpture.  The  sky 
and  hills,  which  seem  to  be  between  the  arches,  are  so 
natural,  that  swallows  and  other  birds,  thinking  to  fly 
through,  have  dashed  themselves  against  the  wall.  I 
was  infinitely  taken  with  this  agreeable  cheat.  At  the 
further  part  of  this  walk  is  that  plentiful,  though  arti- 
ficial cascade,  which  rolls  down  a  very  steep  declivity, 
and  over  the  marble  steps  and  basins,  with  an  astonish- 
ing noise  and  fury;  each  basin  hath  a  jetto  in  it,  flowing 
like  sheets  of  transparent  glass,  especially  that  which 
rises  over  the  great  shell  of  lead,  from  whence  it  glides 
silently  down  a  channel  through  the  middle  of  a  spacious 
gravel  walk,  terminating  in  a  grotto.  Here  are  also 
fountains  that  cast  water  to  a  great  height,  and  large 
ponds,  two  of  which  have  islands  for  harbor  of  fowls,  of 
which  there  is  store.  One  of  these  islands  has  a  recep- 
tacle for  them  built  of  vast  pieces  of  rock,  near  fifty 
feet  high,  grown  over  with  moss,  ivy,  etc.,  shaded 
at  a  competent  distance  with  tall  trees:  in  this  rupellary 
nidary  do  the  fowl  lay  eggs,  and  breed.  We  then  saw 
a  large  and  very  rare  grotto  of  shell-work,  in  the  shape 
of  Satyrs,  and  other  wild  fancies:  in  the  middle  stands 
a  marble  table,  on  which  a  fountain  plays  in  divers 
forms  of  glasses,  cups,  crosses,  fans,  crowns,  etc.  Then 
the  fountaineer  represented  a  shower  of  rain  from  the 
top,  met  by  small  jets  from  below.  At  going  out,  two 
extravagant  musketeers  shot  us  with  a  stream  of  water 
from  their  musket  barrels.  Before  this  grotto  is  a  long 
pool  into  which  ran  divers  spouts  of  water  from  leaden 
escalop  basins.  The  viewing  this  paradise  made  us  late 
at  St.   Germains. 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  53 

The  first  building  of  this  palace  is  of  Charles  V.,  called 
the  Sage ;  but  Francis  I.  (that  true  virtuoso)  made  it  com- 
plete; speaking  as  to  the  style  of  magnificence  then  in 
fashion,  which  was  with  too  great  a  mixture  of  the  Gothic, 
as  may  be  seen  in  what  there  is  remaining  of  his  in  the 
old  Castle,  an  irregular  piece  as  built  on  the  old  founda- 
tion, and  having  a  moat  about  it.  It  has  yet  some  spacious 
and  handsome  rooms  of  state,  and  a  chapel  neatly  painted. 
The  new  Castle  is  at  some  distance,  divided  from  this  by 
a  court,  of  a  lower,  but  more  modern  design,  built  by 
Henry  IV.  To  this  belong  six  terraces,  built  of  brick  and 
stone,  descending  in  cascades  toward  the  river,  cut  out  of 
the  natural  hill,  having  under  them  goodly  vaulted  gal- 
leries; of  these,  four  have  subterranean  grots  and  rocks, 
where  are  represented  several  objects  in  the  manner  of 
scenes  and  other  motions,  by  force  of  water,  shown  by  the 
light  of  torches  only;  among  these,  is  Orpheus  with  his 
music ;  and  the  animals,  which  dance  after  his  harp ;  in  the 
second,  is  the  King  and  Dolphin;*  in  the  third,  is  Nep- 
tune sounding  his  trumpet,  his  chariot  drawn  by  sea 
horses ;  in  the  fourth,  the  story  of  Perseus  and  Andromeda ; 
mills ;  hermitages ;  men  fishing ;  birds  chirping ;  and  many 
other  devices.  There  is  also  a  dry  grot  to  refresh  in ;  all 
having  a  fine  prospect  toward  the  river,  and  the  goodly 
country  about  it,  especially  the  forest.  At  the  bottom,  is 
a  parterre ;  the  upper  terrace  nearly  half  a  mile  in  length, 
with  double  declivities,  arched  and  balustered  with  stone, 
of  vast  and  royal  cost. 

In  the  pavilion  of  the  new  Castle  are  many  fair  rooms, 
well  painted,  and  leading  into  a  very  noble  garden  and 
park,  where  is  a  pall-mall,  in  the  midst  of  which,  on  one 
of  the  sides,  is  a  chapel,  with  stone  cupola,  though  small, 
yet  of  a  handsome  order  of  architecture.  Out  of  the  park 
you  go  into  the  forest,  which  being  very  large,  is  stored 
with  deer,  wild  boars,  wolves,  and  other  wild  game.  The 
Tennis  Court,  and  Cavallerizzo,  for  the  managed  horses, 
are  also  observable. 

We  returned  to  Paris  by  Madrid,  another  villa  of  the 
King's,  built  by  Francis  I.,  and  called  by  that  name  to 
absolve  him  of  his  oath  that  he  would  not  go  from  Madrid 
(in  which  he  was  prisoner),  in  Spain,  but  from  whence 
he  made  his  escape.  This  house  is  also  built  in  a  park, 
*  Dauphin. 


54  DIARY  OF  Paris 

and  walled  in.     We  next  called  in  at  the  Bonnes-hommes, 
well  situated,  with  a  fair  chapel  and  library. 

ist  March,  1644.  I  went  to  see  the  Count  de  Liancourt's 
Palace  in  the  Rue  de  Seine,  which  is  well  built.  Toward 
his  study  and  bedchamber  joins  a  little  garden,  which, 
though  very  narrow,  by  the  addition  of  a  well-painted 
perspective,  is  to  appearance  greatly  enlarged;  to  this 
there  is  another  part,  supported  by  arches  in  which  runs 
a  stream  of  water,  rising  in  the  aviary,  out  of  a  statue, 
and  seeming  to  flow  for  some  miles,  by  being  artificially 
continued  in  the  painting,  when  it  sinks  down  at  the  wall. 
It  is  a  very  agreeable  deceit.  At  the  end  of  this  garden 
is  a  little  theater,  made  to  change  with  divers  pretty 
scenes,  and  the  stage  so  ordered,  with  figfures  of  men  and 
women  painted  on  light  boards,  and  cut  out,  and,  by  a 
person  who  stands  underneath,  made  to  act  as  if  they 
were  speaking,  by  guiding  them,  and  reciting  words  in 
different  tones,  as  the  parts  require.  We  were  led  into  a 
round  cabinet,  where  was  a  neat  invention  for  reflecting 
lights,  by  lining  divers  sconces  with  thin  shining  plates 
of  gilded  copper. 

In  one  of  the  rooms  of  state  was  an  excellent  painting 
of  Poussin,  being  a  Satyr  kneeling;  over  the  chimney, 
the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  by  Paulo  Veronese ;  another 
Madonna  over  the  door,  and  that  of  Joseph,  by  Cigali; 
in  the  Hall,  a  Cavaliero  di  Malta,  attended  by  his  page, 
said  to  be  of  Michael  Angelo;  the  Rape  of  Proserpine, 
with  a  very  large  landscape  of  Correggio.  In  the  next 
room  are  some  paintings  of  Primaticcio,  especially  the 
Helena,  the  naked  Lady  brought  before  Alexander, 
well  painted,  and  a  Ceres.  In  the  bedchamber  a  picture 
of  the  Cardinal  de  Liancourt,  of  Raphael,  rarely  colored. 
In  the  cabinet  are  divers  pieces  of  Bassano,  two  of 
Polemburg,  four  of  Paulo  Brill,  the  skies  a  little  too 
blue.  A  Madonna  of  Nicholao,  excellently  painted  on  a 
stone;  a  Judith  of  Mantegna;  three  women  of  Jeronimo; 
one  of  Stenwick ;  a  Madonna  after  Titian,  and  a  Magdalen 
of  the  same  hand,  as  the  Count  esteems  it:  two  small 
pieces  of  Paulo  Veronese,  being  the  Martyrdoms  of  St.  Jus- 
tina  and  St.  Catherine ;  a  Madonna  of  Lucas  Van  Leyden, 
sent  him  from  our  King ;  six  more  of  old  Bassano ;  two  ex- 
cellent drawings  of  Albert ;  a  Magdalen  of  Leonardo  da 
Vinci ;  four  of  Paulo ;  a  very  rare  Madonna  of  Titian,  given 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  55 

him  also  by  our  King;  the  Ecce  Hotno^  shut  up  in  a 
frame  of  velvet,  for  the  life  and  accurate  finishing  exceed- 
ing all  description.  Some  curious  agates,  and  a  chaplet 
of  admirable  invention,  the  intaglios  being  all  on  fruit 
stones.  The  Count  was  so  exceeding  civil,  that  he  would 
needs  make  his  lady  go  out  of  her  dressing  room,  that  he 
might  show  us  the  curiosities  and  pictures  in  it. 

We  went  thence  to  visit  one  Monsieur  Perishot,  one  of 
the  greatest  viri;uosos  in  France,  for  his  collection  of 
pictures,  agates,  medals,  and  flowers,  especially  tulips 
and  anemonies.  The  chiefest  of  his  paintings  was  a 
Sebastian,  of  Titian. 

From  him  we  went  to  Monsieur  Frene's,  who  showed 
us  many  rare  drawings,  a  Rape  of  Helen  in  black  chalk; 
many  excellent  things  of  Sneiders,  all  naked;  some  of 
Julio  and  Michael  Angelo;  a  Madonna  of  Passignano; 
some  things  of     Parmensis,  and  other  masters. 

The  next  morning,  being  recommended  to  one  Monsieur 
de  Hausse,  President  of  the  Parliament,  and  once  Ambas- 
sador at  Venice  for  the  French  King,  we  were  very  civilly 
received,  and  showed  his  library.  Among  his  paintings 
were  a  rare  Venus  and  Adonis  of  Veronese,  a  St.  An- 
thony, after  the  first  manner  of  Corregg^o,  and  a  rare 
Madonna  of  Palma. 

Sunday,  the  6th  of  March,  I  went  to  Charenton,  two 
leagues  from  Paris,  to  hear  and  see  the  manner  of  the 
French  Protestant  Church  service.  The  place  of  meet- 
ing they  call  the  Temple,  a  very  fair  and  spacious  room, 
built  of  freestone,  very  decently  adorned  with  paintings 
of  the  Tables  of  the  Law,  the  Lord's  Prayer,  and  Creed. 
The  pulpit  stands  at  the  upper  end  in  the  middle,  hav- 
ing an  inclosure  of  seats  about  it,  where  the  Elders  and 
persons  of  greatest  quality  and  strangers,  sit;  the  rest  of 
the  congregation  on  forms  and  low  stools,  but  none  in 
pews,  as  in  our  churches,  to  their  great  disgrace,  as 
nothing  so  orderly,  as  here  the  stools  and  other  cumber 
are  removed  when  the  assembly  rises.  I  was  greatly 
pleased  with  their  harmonious  singing  the  Psalms,  which 
they  all  learn  perfectly  well,  their  children  being  as  duly 
taught  these,  as  their  catechism. 

In  our  passage,  we  went  by  that  famous  bridge  over  the 
Mame,  where  that  renowned  echo  returns  the  voice  of  a 
good  singer  nine  or  ten  times. 


56  DIARY  OF  paris 

7th  March,  1644.  I  set  forward  with  some  company 
toward  Fontainebleau,  a  sumptuous  Palace  of  the  King's, 
like  ours  at  Hampton  Court,  about  fourteen  leagues  from 
the  city.  By  the  way,  we  pass  through  a  forest  so  pro- 
digiously encompassed  with  hideous  rocks  of  whitish  hard 
stone,  heaped  one  on  another  in  mountainous  heights, 
that  I  think  the  like  is  nowhere  to  be  found  more  hor- 
rid and  solitary.  It  abounds  with  stags,  wolves,  boars, 
and  not  long  after  a  lynx,  or  ounce,  was  killed  among 
them,  which  had  devoured  some  passengers.  On  the 
summit  of  one  of  these  gloomy  precipices,  intermingled 
with  trees  and  shrubs,  the  stones  hanging  over,  and  men- 
acing ruin,  is  built  an  hermitage.  In  these  solitudes, 
rogues  frequently  lurk  and  do  mischief  (and  for  whom 
we  were  all  well  appointed  with  our  carabines) ;  but  we 
arrived  safe  in  the  evening  at  the  village,  where  we  lay 
at  the  Home,  going  early  next   morning  to   the    Palace. 

This  House  is  nothing  so  stately  and  uniform  as  Hamp- 
ton Court,  but  Francis  I.  began  much  to  beautify  it ;  most 
of  all  Henry  IV.  (and  not  a  little)  the  late  King.  It 
abounds  with  fair  halls,  chambers,  and  galleries;  in  the 
longest,  which  is  360  feet  long,  and  18  broad,  are  painted 
the  Victories  of  that  great  Prince,  Henry  IV.  That  of 
Francis  I.,  called  the  grand  Gallery,  has  all  the  King's 
palaces  painted  in  it;  above  these,  in  sixty  pieces  of  ex- 
cellent work  in  fresco,  is  the  History  of  Ulysses,  from 
Homer,  by  Primaticcio,  in  the  time  of  Henry  III.,  es- 
teemed the  most  renowned  in  Europe  for  the  design. 
The  Cabinet  is  full  of  excellent  pictures,  especially  a 
Woman,  of  Raphael.  In  the  Hall  of  the  Guards  is  a 
piece  of  tapestry  painted  on  the  wall,  very  naturally, 
representing  the  victories  of  Charles  VII.  over  our  country- 
men. In  the  Salle  des  Festins  is  a  rare  Chimney-piece, 
and  Henry  IV,  on  horseback,  of  white  marble,  esteemed 
worth  18,000  crowns;  Clementia  and  Pax,  nobly  done. 
On  columns  of  jasper,  two  lions  of  brass.  The  new  stairs, 
and  a  half  circular  court,  are  of  modem  and  good  archi- 
tecture, as  is  a  chapel  built  by  Louis  XIII.,  all  of  jasper, 
with   several   incrustations  of  marble  through  the  inside. 

Having  seen  the  rooms,  we  went  to  the  volary,  which 
has  a  cupola  in  the  middle  of  it,  great  trees  and  bushes, 
it  being  full  of  birds  who  drank  at  two  fountains.  There 
is   also  a  fair  tennis    court,    and   noble   stables;    but   the 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  57 

beauty  of  all  are  the  gardens.  In  the  Court  of  the  Foun- 
tains stand  divers  antiquities  and  statues,  especially  a 
Mercury.  In  the  Queen's  Garden  is  a  Diana  ejecting  a 
fountain,  with  numerous  other  brass  statues. 

The  great  Garden,  180  toises  long  and  154  wide,  has 
in  the  center  a  fountain  of  Tyber  of  a  Colossean  figure 
of  brass,  with  the  Wolf  over  Romulus  and  Remus.  At 
each  comer  of  the  garden  rises  a  fountain.  In  the  gar- 
den of  the  piscina,  is  a  Hercules  of  white  marble;  next, 
is  that  of  the  pines,  and  without  that  a  canal  of  an 
English  mile  in  length,  at  the  end  of  which  rise  three 
jettos  in  the  form  of  a  fleur-de-lis,  of  a  great  height ;  on 
the  margin  are  excellent  walks  planted  with  trees.  The 
carps  come  familiarly  to  hand  (to  be  fed).  Hence  they 
brought  us  to  a  spring,  which  they  say  being  first  dis- 
covered by  a  dog,  gave  occasion  of  beautifying  this 
place,  both  with  the  palace  and  gardens.  The  white 
and  terrific  rocks  at  some  distance  in  the  forest,  yield 
one  of  the  most  august  and  stupendous  prospects  imag- 
inable. The  park  about  this  place  is  very  large,  and  the 
town  full  of  noblemen's  houses. 

Next  morning,  we  were  invited  by  a  painter,  who  was 
keeper  of  the  pictures  and  rarities,  to  see  his  own  col- 
lection. We  were  led  through  a  gallery  of  old  Rosso's 
work,  at  the  end  of  which,  in  another  cabinet,  were  three 
Madonnas  of  Raphael,  and  two  of  Andrea  del  Sarto.  In 
the  Academy  where  the  painter  himself  wrought,  was  a 
St.  Michael  of  Raphael,  very  rare;  St.  John  Baptist  of 
Leonardo,  and  a  Woman's  head;  a  Queen  of  Sicily,  and 
St.  Margaret  of  Raphael;  two  more  Madonnas,  whereof 
one  very  large,  by  the  same  hand;  some  more  of  del 
Sarto;  a  St.  Jerome,  of  Perino  del  Vaga;  the  Rape  of 
Proserpine,  very  good :  and  a  great  number  of  drawings. 

Returning  part  of  our  way  to  Paris,  that  day,  we 
visited  a  house  called  Maison  Rouge,  having  an  excellent 
prospect,  grot,  and  fountains,  one  whereof  rises  fifty  feet, 
and  resembles  the  noise  of  a  tempest,  battle  of  guns,  etc., 
at  its  issue. 

Thence  to  Essone,  a  house  of  Monsieur  Essling,  who 
is  a  great  virtuoso ;  there  are  many  good  paintings  in  it ; 
but  nothing  so  observable  as  his  gardens,  fountains,  fish- 
pools,  especially  that  in  a  triangular  form,  the  water  cast 
out  by  a  multitude  of   heads   about   it;   there   is  a  noble 


58  DIARY  OF  rouen 

cascade  and  pretty  baths,  with  all  accommodations.  Under 
a  marble  table  is  a  fountain  of  serpents  twisting  about  a 
globe. 

We  alighted  next  at  Corbeil,  a  town  famous  for  the 
siege  by  Henry  IV.  Here  we  slept,  and  returned  next 
morning  to  Paris. 

1 8th  March,  1644.  I  went  with  Sir  J.  Cotton,  a  Cam- 
bridgeshire Knight,  a  journey  into  Normandy.  The  first 
day,  we  passed  by  Gaillon,  the  Archbishop  of  Rouen's 
Palace.  The  gardens  are  highly  commended,  but  we  did 
not  go  in,  intending  to  reach  Pontoise  by  dinner.  This 
town  is  built  in  a  very  gallant  place,  has  a  noble  bridge 
over  the  Oise,  and  is  well  refreshed  with  fountains. 

This  is  the  first  town  in  Normandy,  and  the  furthest 
that  the  vineyards  extend  to  on  this  side  of  the  country, 
which  is  fuller  of  plains,  wood,  and  inclosures,  with  some 
towns  toward  the  sea,  very  like  England. 

We  lay  this  night  at  a  village,  called  Magny.  The  next 
day,  descending  a  very  steep  hill,  we  dined  at  Fleury, 
after  riding  five  leagues  down  St.  Catherine,  to  Rouen, 
which  affords  a  goodly  prospect,  to  the  ruins  of  that 
chapel  and  mountain.  This  country  so  abounds  with 
wolves  that  a  shepherd  whom  we  met,  told  us  one  of  his 
companions  was  strangled  by  one  of  them  the  day  before, 
and  that  in  the  midst  of  his  flock.  The  fields  are  mostly 
planted  with  pears  and  apples,  and  other  cider  fruits.  It 
is  plentifully  furnished  with  quarries  of  stone  and  slate, 
and  hath  iron  in  abundance. 

I  lay  at  the  White  Cross,  in  Rouen,  which  is  a  very 
large  city,  on  the  Seine,  having  two  smaller  rivers  be- 
sides, called  the  Aubette  and  Robec.  There  stand  yet 
the  ruins  of  a  magnificent  bridge  of  stone,  now  supplied 
by  one  of  boats  only,  to  which  come  up  vessels  of  con- 
siderable burden.  The  other  side  of  the  water  consists 
of  meadows,  and  there  have  the  Reformed  a  church. 

The  Cathedral  Notre  Dame  was  built,  as  they  acknowl- 
edge, by  the  English;  some  English  words  graven  in 
Gothic  characters  upon  the  front  seem  to  confirm  it.  The 
towers  and  whole  church  are  full  of  carving.  It  has  three 
steeples,  with  a  pyramid;  in  one  of  these,  I  saw  the 
famous  bell  so  much  talked  of,  thirteen  feet  in  height, 
thirty-two  round,  the  diameter  eleven,  weighing  40,000 
pounds. 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  59 

In  the  Chapel  d'Amboise,  built  by  a  Cardinal  of  that 
name,  lies  his  body,  with  several  fair  monuments.  The 
choir  has  behind  it  a  great  dragon  painted  on  the  wall, 
which  they  say  had  done  much  harm  to  the  inhabitants, 
till  vanquished  by  St.  Romain,  their  Archbishop ;  for  which 
there  is  an  annual  procession.  It  was  now  near  Easter, 
and  many  images  were  exposed  with  scenes  and  stories 
representing  the  Passion;  made  up  of  little  puppets,  to 
which  there  was  great  resort  and  devotion,  with  offerings. 
Before  the  church  is  a  fair  palace.  St.  Ouen  is  another 
goodly  church  and  an  abbey  with  fine  gardens.  Here  the 
King  hath  lodgings,  when  he  makes  his  progress  through 
these  parts.  The  structure,  where  the  Court  of  Parlia- 
ment is  kept,  is  very  magnificent,  containing  very  fair 
halls  and  chambers,  especially  La  Chambre  Dor^e.  The 
town-house  is  also  well  built,  and  so  are  some  gentle- 
men's houses;  but  most  part  of  the  rest  are  of  timber, 
like  our  merchants'  in  London,  in  the  wooden  part  of  the 
city. 

2 1  St  March,  1644.  On  Easter  Monday,  we  dined  at 
Totes,  a  solitary  inn  between  Rouen  and  Dieppe,  at  which 
latter  place  we  arrived.  This  town  is  situated  between 
two  mountains,  not  unpleasantly,  and  is  washed  on  the 
north  by  our  English  seas. 

The  port  is  commodious;  but  the  entrance  difficult.  It 
has  one  very  ample  and  fair  street,  in  which  is  a  pretty 
church.  The  Fort  Pollet  consists  of  a  strong  earth-work, 
and  commands  the  haven,  as  on  the  other  side  does  the 
castle,  which  is  also  well  fortified,  with  the  citadel  be- 
fore it ;  nor  is  the  town  itself  a  little  strong.  It  abounds 
with  workmen,  who  make  and  sell  curiosities  of  ivory 
and  tortoise-shells;  and  indeed  whatever  the  East  Indies 
afford  of  cabinets,  porcelain,  natural  and  exotic  rarities, 
are  here  to  be  had,  with  abundant  choice. 

23d  March,  1644.  We  passed  along  the  coast  by  a  very 
rocky  and  rugged  way,  which  forced  us  to  alight  many 
times  before  we  came  to  Havre  de  Grace,  where  we  lay 
that  night. 

The  next  morning,  we  saw  the  citadel,  strong  and  reg- 
ular, well  stored  with  artillery  and  ammunition  of  all 
sorts :  the  works  furnished  with  fair  brass  cannon,  having 
a  motto,  Ratio  ultima  Regum.  The  allogements  of  the 
garrison  are  uniform;    a  spacious   place   for  drawing  up 


6o  DIARY  OF  caen 

the  soldiers,  a  pretty  chapel,  and  a  fair  house  for  the 
Governor.  The  Duke  of  Richelieu  being  now  in  the  fort, 
we  went  to  salute  him ;  who  received  us  very  civilly,  and 
commanded  that  we  should  be  showed  whatever  we  de- 
sired to  see.  The  citadel  was  built  by  the  late  Cardinal 
de  Richelieu,  uncle  of  the  present  Duke,  and  may  be 
esteemed  one  of  the  strongest  in  France.  The  haven  is 
very  capacious. 

When  we  had  done  here,  we  embarked  ourselves  and 
horses  to  pass  to  Honfleur,  about  four  or  five  leagues 
distant,  where  the  Seine  falls  into  the  sea.  It  is  a  poor 
fisher- town,  remarkable  for  nothing  so  much  as  the  odd, 
yet  useful  habits  which  the  good  women  wear,  of  bears' 
and^  other  skins,  as  of  rugs  at  Dieppe,  and  all  along  these 
maritime  coasts. 

25th  March,  1644.  We  arrived  at  Caen,  a  noble  and 
beautiful  town,  situate  on  the  river  Orne,  which  passes 
quite  through  it,  the  two  sides  of  the  town  joined  only 
by  a  bridge  of  one  entire  arch.  We  lay  at  the  Angel, 
where  we  were  very  well  used,  the  place  being  abundantly 
furnished  with  provisions,  at  a  cheap  rate.  The  most  con- 
siderable object  is  the  great  Abbey  and  Church,  large 
and  rich,  built  after  the  Gothic  manner,  having  two  spires 
and  middle  lantern  at  the  west  end,  all  of  stone.  The 
choir  round  and  large,  in  the  center  whereof  elevated 
on  a  square,  handsome,  but  plain  sepulcher,  is  this 
inscription : 

«  Hoc  sepulchrum  invictissimi  juxta  et  clementissimi  conquestoris, 
Gulielmi,  dum  viverat  Anglorum  Regis,  Normannorum  Cenoraanno- 
rumque  Principis,  hujus  insignis  Abbatiae  piissimi  Fundatoris:  Cum- 
anno  1562  vesano  haereticorum  furore  direptum  fuisset,  pio  tandem 
nobilium  ejusdem  Abbatiae  religiosorum  gratitudinis  sensu  in  tam  bene- 
ficum  largitorem,  instauratum  fuit,  a"  D'ni  1642.  D'no  Johanne  de 
Bailhache  Assaetorii  proto  priore.     D.D.*' 

On  the  other  side  are  these  monkish  rhymes: 

<<  Qui  rexit  rigidos  Northmannos,  atq.  Britannos 

Audacter  vicit,  fortiter  obtinuit, 
Et  Cenomanensis  virtute  ceorcuit  ensis, 

Imperiique  sui  Legfibus  applicuit. 
Rex  magnus  parvS.  jacet  h^c  Gulielm*  in  UrnS,, 

Sufl&cit  et  magno  parva  domus  Domino. 
Ter  septem  gradibus  te  volverat  atq.  duobus 

Virginis  in  gremio  Phoebus,  ethic  obiit.*> 


1 644  JOHN  EVELYN  6i 

We  went  to  the  castle,  which  is  strong  and  fair,  and 
so  is  the  town-house,  built  on  the  bridge  which  unites 
the  two  towns.  Here  are  schools  and  an  University  for 
the  Jurists. 

The  whole  town  is  handsomely  built  of  that  excellent 
stone  so  well  known  by  that  name  in  England.  I  was 
led  to  a  pretty  garden,  planted  with  hedges  of  alatemus, 
having  at  the  entrance  a  screen  at  an  exceeding  height, 
accurately  cut  in  topiary  work,  with  well  understood 
architecture,  consisting  of  pillars,  nibhes,  friezes,  and  other 
ornaments,  with  great  curiosity;  some  of  the  columns 
curiously  wreathed,  others  spiral,   all  according  to  art. 

28th  March,  1644.  We  went  toward  Paris,  lying  the 
first  night  at  Evreux,  a  Bishop's  seat,  an  ancient  town, 
with  a  fair  cathedral ;  so  the  next  day  we  arrived  at  Paris. 

ist  April,  1644.  I  went  to  see  more  exactly  the  rooms 
of  the  fine  Palace  of  Luxemburg,  in  the  Fauxbourg  St. 
Germains,  built  by  Mary  di  Medicis,  and  I  think  one  of 
the  most  noble,  entire,  and  finished  piles  that  is  to  be 
seen,  taking  it  with  the  garden  and  all  its  accomplish- 
ments. The  gallery  is  of  the  painting  of  Rubens,  being 
the  history  of  the  Foundress's  Life,  rarely  designed;  at 
the  end  of  it  is  the  Duke  of  Orleans*  library,  well  fur- 
nished with  excellent  books,  all  bound  in  maroquin  and 
gilded,  the  valance  of  the  shelves  being  of  green  velvet, 
fringed  with  gold.  In  the  cabinet  joining  to  it  are  only 
the  smaller  volumes,  with  six  cabinets  of  medals,  and  an 
excellent  collection  of  shells  and  agates,  whereof  some 
are  prodigiously  rich.  This  Duke  being  very  learned  in 
medals  and  plants,  nothing  of  that  kind  escapes  him. 
There  are  other  spacious,  noble,  and  princely  furnished 
rooms,  which  look  toward  the  gardens,  which  are  nothing 
inferior  to  the  rest. 

The  court  below  is  formed  into  a  square  by  a  corridor, 
having  over  the  chief  entrance  a  stately  cupola,  covered 
with  stone:  the  rest  is  cloistered  and  arched  on  pilasters 
of  rustic  work.  The  terrace  ascending  before  the  front, 
paved  with  white  and  black  marble,  is  balustered  with 
white  marble,  exquisitely  polished. 

Only  the  hall  below  is  low,  and  the  staircase  somewhat 
of  a  heavy  design,  but  the  facia  toward  the  parterre 
which  is  also  arched  and  vaulted  with  stone,  is  of  admir- 
able beauty  and  full  of  sculpture. 


6a  DIARY  OF  paris 

The  gardens  are  near  an  English  mile  in  compass, 
inclosed  with  a  stately  wall,  and  in  a  good  air  The 
parterre  is  indeed  of  box,  but  so  rarely  designed  and 
accurately  kept  cut,  that  the  embroidery  makes  a  won- 
derful effect  to  the  lodgings  which  front  it.  'Tis  divided 
into  four  squares  and  as  many  circular  knots,  having  in 
the  center  a  noble  basin  of  marble  near  thirty  feet  in 
diameter  (as  I  remember),  in  which  a  Triton  of  brass 
holds  a  dolphin,  that  casts  a  girandola  of  water  near 
thirty  feet  high,  playing  perpetually,  the  water  being  con- 
veyed from  Arceuil  by  an  aqueduct  of  stone,  built  after 
the  old  Roman  magnificence.  About  this  ample  parterre, 
the  spacious  walks  and  all  included,  runs  a  border  of 
freestone,  adorned  with  pedestals  for  pots  and  statues, 
and  part  of  it  near  the  steps  of  the  terrace,  with  a  rail 
and  baluster  of  pure  white  marble. 

The  walks  are  exactly  fair,  long,  and  variously  descend- 
ing and  so  justly  planted  with  limes,  elms,  and  other 
trees,  that  nothing  can  be  more  delicious,  especially  that 
of  the  hornbeam  hedge,  which  being  high  and  stately, 
buts  full  on  the  fountain. 

Toward  the  further  end,  is  an  excavation  intended  for 
a  vast  fish-pool,  but  never  finished,  and  near  it  is  an 
inclosure  for  a  garden  of  simples,  well  kept;  and  here 
the  Duke  keeps  tortoises  in  great  number,  who  use  the 
pool  of  water  on  one  side  of  the  garden.  Here  is  also  a 
conservatory  for  snow.  At  the  upper  part,  toward  the 
palace,  is  a  grove  of  tall  elms  cut  into  a  star,  every  ray 
being  a  walk,  whose  center  is  a  large  fountain. 

The  rest  of  the  ground  is  made  into  several  inclosures 
(all  hedge-work  or  rows  of  trees)  of  whole  fields,  meadows, 
bocages,  some  of  them  containing  divers  acres. 

Next  the  street  side,  and  more  contiguous  to  the  house, 
are  knots  in  trail,  or  grass  work,  where  likewise  runs  a 
fountain.  Toward  the  grotto  and  stables,  within  a  wall, 
is  a  garden  of  choice  flowers,  in  which  the  duke  spends 
many  thousand  pistoles.  In  sum,  nothing  is  wanted  to 
render  this  palace  and  gardens  perfectly  beautiful  and 
magnificent;  nor  is  it  one  of  the  least  diversions  to  see 
the  number  of  persons  of  quality,  citizens  and  strangers, 
who  frequent  it,  and  to  whom  all  access  is  freely  permitted, 
so  that  you  shall  see  some  walks  and  retirements  full  of 
gallants  and  ladies ;  in  others  melancholy  friars ;  in  others, 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  63 

studious  scholars;  in  others,  jolly  citizens,  some  sitting  or 
lying  on  the  grass,  others  running  and  jumping;  some 
playing  at  bowls  and  ball,  others  dancing  and  singing;  and 
all  this  without  the  least  disturbance,  by  reason  of  the 
largeness  of  the  place. 

What  is  most  admirable,  you  see  no  gardeners,  or  men 
at  work,  and  yet  all  is  kept  in  such  exquisite  order,  as  if 
they  did  nothing  else  but  work;  it  is  so  early  in  the 
morning,  that  all  is  dispatched  and  done  without  the  least 
confusion. 

I  have  been  the  larger  in  the  description  of  this  para- 
dise, for  the  extraordinary  delight  I  have  taken  in  those 
sweet  retirements.  The  Cabinet  and  Chapel  nearer 
the  garden-front  have  some  choice  pictures.  All  the 
houses  near  this  are  also  very  noble  palaces,  especially 
Petite  Luxemburg.  The  ascent  of  the  street  is  handsome 
from  its  breadth,  situation,  and  buildings. 

I  went  next  to  view  Paris  from  the  top  of  St.  Jacques' 
steeple,  esteemed  the  highest  in  the  town,  from  whence 
I  had  a  full  view  of  the  whole  city  and  suburbs,  both 
which,  as  I  judge,  are  not  so  large  as  London:  though 
the  dissimilitude  of  their  several  forms  and  situations, 
this  being  round,  London  long, — renders  it  diflScult  to 
determine ;  but  there  is  no  comparison  between  the  build- 
ings, palaces,  and  materials,  this  being  entirely  of  stone 
and  more  sumptuous,  though  I  esteem  our  piazzas  to  ex- 
ceed  theirs. 

Hence  I  took  a  turn  in  St.  Innocent's  churchyard, 
where  the  story  of  the  devouring  quality  of  the  ground 
(consuming  bodies  in  twenty-four  hours),  the  vast  char- 
nels  of  bones,  tombs,  pyramids,  and  sepulchers,  took  up 
much  of  my  time,  together  with  the  hieroglyphical  char- 
acters of  Nicholas  Flamel's  philosophical  work,  who  had 
founded  this  church,  and  divers  other  charitable  estab- 
lishments, as  he  testifies  in  his  book. 

Here  divers  clerks  get  their  livelihood  by  inditing  let- 
ters for  poor  maids  and  other  ignorant  people  who  come 
to  them  for  advice,  and  to  write  for  them  into  the  coun- 
try, both  to  their  sweethearts,  parents,  and  friends; 
every  large  gravestone  serving  for  a  table.  Joining  to 
this  church  is  a  common  fountain,  with  good  relievos 
upon  it. 

The  next  day  I  was  carried    to    see    a    French   gentle- 


^4  DIARY  OF'  PARIS 

man's  curious  collection,  which  abounded  in  fair  and  rich 
jewels  of  all  sorts  of  precious  stones,  most  of  them  of 
great  sizes  and  value;  agates  and  onyxes,  some  of  them 
admirably  colored  and  antique;  nor  inferior  were  his 
landscapes  from  the  best  hands,  most  of  which  he  had 
caused  to  be  copied  in  miniature;  one  of  which,  rarely 
painted  on  stone,  was  broken  by  one  of  our  company,  by 
the  mischance  of  setting  it  up:  but  such  was  the  temper 
and  civility  of  the  gentleman,  that  it  altered  nothing  of 
his  free  and  noble  humor. 

The  next  morning,  I  was  had  by  a  friend  to  the  gar- 
den of  Monsieur  Morine,  who,  from  being  an  ordinary 
gardener,  is  become  one  of  the  most  skillful  and  curious 
persons  in  France  for  his  rare  collection  of  shells,  flowers, 
and  insects. 

His  garden  is  of  an  exact  oval  figure,  planted  with  cy- 
press, cut  flat  and  set  as  even  as  a  wall:  the  tulips,  ane- 
mones, ranunculuses,  crocuses,  etc.,  are  held  to  be  of 
the  rarest,  and  draw  all  the  admirers  of  that  kind  to  his 
house  during  the  season.  He  lived  in  a  kind  of  hermit- 
age at  one  side  of  his  garden,  where  his  collection  of 
porcelain  and  coral,  whereof  one  is  carved  into  a  large 
crucifix,  is  much  esteemed.  He  has  also  books  of  prints, 
by  Albert  [Durer],  Van  Leyden,  Callot,  etc.  His  collec- 
tion of  all  sorts  of  insects,  especially  of  butterflies,  is 
most  curious;  these  he  spreads  and  so  medicates,  that  no 
corruption  invading  them,  he  keeps  them  in  drawers,  so 
placed  as  to  represent  a  beautiful  piece  of  tapestry. 

He  showed  me  the  remarks  he  had  made  on  their  prop- 
agation, which  he  promised  to  publish.  Some  of  these, 
as  also  of  his  best  flowers,  he  had  caused  to  be  painted 
in  miniature  by  rare  hands,   and  some  in  oil. 

6th  April,  1644.  I  sent  my  sister  my  own  picture  in 
water  colors,*  which  she  requested  of  me,  and  went  to  see 
divers  of  the  fairest  palaces  of  the  town,  as  that  of  Ven- 
dome,  very  large  and  stately ;  Lougueville ;  Guise ;  Cond^ ; 

*  In  the  first  and  second  editions  of  the  «  Diary  »  many  trifling  personal 
details,  such  as  this  mention  of  the  author  having  sent  his  ovra  picture 
in  water  colors  to  his  sister,  were  omitted.  It  is  not  necessary  to  point 
them  out  in  detail.  They  are  always  of  this  personal  character ;  as, 
among  other  examples,  the  mention  of  the  wet  weather  preventing  the 
diarist  from  stirring  out,  and  that  of  his  coming  weary  to  his  lodg- 
ings. 


1 644  JOHN  EVELYN  65 

Chevereuse,  Nevers,  esteemed  one  of  the    best   in    Paris 
toward  the  river. 

I  often  went  to  the  Palais  Cardinal,  bequeathed  by 
Richelieu  to  the  King,  on  condition  that  it  should  be 
called  by  his  name;  at  this  time,  the  King  resided  in  it, 
because  of  the  building  of  the  Louvre.  It  is  a  very 
noble  house,  though  somewhat  low;  the  galleries,  paint- 
ings of  the  most  illustrious  persons  of  both  sexes,  the 
Queen's  baths,  presence-chamber  with  its  rich  carved 
and  gilded  roof,  theater,  and  large  garden,  in  which  is 
an  ample  fountain,  grove,  and  mall,  worthy  of  remark. 
Here  I  also  frequently  went  to  see  them  ride  and  exer- 
cise the  great  horse,  especially  at  the  Academy  of  Mon- 
sieur du  Plessis,  and  de  Veau,  whose  schools  of  that  art 
are  frequented  by  the  nobility ;  and  here  also  young  gen- 
tlemen are  taught  to  fence,  dance,  play  on  music,  and 
something  in  fortification  and  the  mathematics.  The  design 
is  admirable,  some  keeping  near  a  hundred  brave  horses, 
all  managed  to  the  great  saddle. 

12th  April,  1644.  I  took  coach,  to  see  a  general 
muster  of  all  the  gens  d'anncs  about  the  city,  in  the  Bois 
de  Boulogne,  before  their  Majesties  and  all  the  Grandees. 
They  were  reputed  to  be  near  20,000,  besides  the  spec- 
tators, who  much  exceeded  them  in  number.  Here  they 
performed  all  their  motions;  and,  being  drawn  up,  horse 
and  foot,  into  several  figures,  represented  a  battle. 

The  summer  now  drawing  near,  I  determined  to  spend 
the  rest  of  it  in  some  more  remote  town  on  the  river 
Loire;  and,  on  19th  of  April,  I  took  leave  of  Paris,  and,  by 
the  way  of  the  messenger,  agreed  for  my  passage  to  Or- 
leans. 

The  way  from  Paris  to  this  city,  as  indeed  most  of  the 
roads  in  France,  is  paved  with  a  small  square  freestone, 
so  that  the  country  does  not  much  molest  the  traveler 
with  dirt  and  ill  way,  as  in  England,  only  'tis  somewhat 
hard  to  the  poor  horses'  feet,  which  causes  them  to  ride 
more  temperately,  seldom  going  out  of  the  trot,  or  grand 
pas,  as  they  call  it.  We  passed  divers  walled  towns,  or 
villages;  among  others  of  note,  Chartres  and  Etampes, 
where  we  lay  the  first  night.  This  has  a  fair  church.  The 
next  day,  we  had  an  excellent  road;  but  had  liked  to 
come  short  home :  for  no  sooner  were  we  entered  two  or 
three  leagues  into  the  Forest  of  Orleans  (which  extends 
5 


66  DIARY  OP  ORLEANS 

itself  many  miles),  but  the  company  behind  us  were  set 
on  by  rogfues,  who,  shooting  from  the  hedges  and  fre- 
quent covert,  slew  four  upon  the  spot.  Among  the  slain 
was  a  captain  of  Swiss,  of  the  regiment  of  Picardy,  a 
person  much  lamented.  This  disaster  made  such  an 
alarm  in  Orleans  at  our  arrival,  that  the  Prevot  Marshal, 
with  his  assistants,  going  in  pursuit,  brought  in  two 
whom  they  had  shot,  and  exposed  them  in  the  great 
market  place,  to  see  if  any  would  take  cognizance  of 
them.  I  had  great  cause  to  give  God  thanks  for  this 
escape;  when  coming  to  Orleans  and  lying  at  the  White 
Cross,  I  found  Mr.  John  Nicholas,  eldest  son  to  Mr. 
Secretary.  In  the  night  a  cat  kittened  on  my  bed,  and 
left  on  it  a  young  one  having  six  ears,  eight  legs,  two 
bodies  from  the  middle  downward,  and  two  tails.  I  found 
it  dead,  but  warm,  in  the  morning  when  I  awaked. 

2ist  April,  1644.  I  went  about  to  view  the  city, 
which  is  well  built  of  stone,  on  the  side  of  the  Loire. 
About  the  middle  of  the  river  is  an  island,  full  of 
walks  and  fair  trees,  with  some  houses.  This  is  con- 
tiguous to  the  town  by  a  stately  stone  bridge,  reach- 
ing to  the  opposite  suburbs,  built  likewise  on  the  edge 
of  a  hill,  from  whence  is  a  beautiful  prospect.  At  one 
of  the  extremes  of  the  bridge  are  strong  towers,  and 
about  the  middle,  on  one  side,  is  the  statue  of  the 
Virgin  Mary,  or  Pieta,  with  the  dead  Christ  in  her 
lap,  as  big  as  the  life.  At  one  side  of  the  cross,  kneels 
Charles  VII.,  armed,  and  at  the  other  Joan  d'Arc, 
armed  also  like  a  cavalier,  with  boots  and  spurs,  her 
hair  disheveled,  as  the  deliveress  of  the  town  from  our 
countrjrmen,  when  they  besieged  it.  The  figures  are 
all  cast  in  copper,  with  a  pedestal  full  of  inscriptions,  as 
well  as  a  fair  column  joining  it,  which  is  all  adorned 
with  fleurs-de-lis  and  a  crucifix,  with  two  saints  pro- 
ceeding (as  it  were)  from  two  branches  out  of  its  capital 
The  inscriptions  on  the  cross  are  in  Latin :  *  Mors  Christi  in 
cruce  nos  d  contagione^  labis  et  csternorum  morborum  sana- 
vit. "  On  the  pedestal :  "  Rex  in  hoc  signo  hostes  profliga- 
vit,  et  Johanna  Virgo  Aureliam  obsidio  liber avit.  Non  diu 
ab  impiis  diruta,  restituta  sunt  hoc  anno  D'ni  1578.  Jean 
Buret^  m.  f. " —  ^'  Octannoque  Galliam  servitute  Britannicd 
liberavit.  A  Domino  factum  est  illud,  et  est  ntirabile  in 
oculis  nostris;  in  quorum  memorid  hcBc  nostm  fidei Insignia.^^ 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  67 

To  this  is  made  an  annual  procession  on  12th  of  May, 
mass  being-  sung  before  it,  attended  with  great  cere- 
mony and  concourse  of  people.  The  wine  of  this  place 
is  so  strong,  that  the  King's  cup  bearers  are,  as  I  was 
assured,  sworn  never  to  give  the  King  any  of  it:  but  it 
is  a  very  noble  liquor,  and  much  of  it  transported 
into  other  countries.  The  town  is  much  frequented  by 
strangers,  especially  Germans,  for  the  great  purity  of 
the  language  here  spoken,  as  well  as  for  divers  other 
privileges,  and  the  University,  which  causes  the  Eng- 
lish to  make  no  long  sojourn  here,  except  such  as  can 
drink  and  debauch.  The  city  stands  in  the  county  of 
Bealse  (Blaisois) ;  was  once  styled  a  Kingdom,  after- 
ward a  Duchy,  as  at  present,  belonging  to  the  second 
son  of  France.  Many  Councils  have  been  held  here, 
and  some  Kings  crowned.  The  University  is  very  an- 
cient, divided  now  by  the  students  into  that  of  four 
nations,  French,  High  Dutch,  Normans,  and  Picardines, 
who  have  each  their  respective  protectors,  several  of- 
ficers, treasurers,  consuls,  seals,  etc.  There  are  in  it  two 
reasonable  fair  public  libraries,  whence  one  may  bor- 
row a  book  to  one's  chamber,  giving  but  a  note  under 
hand,  which  is  an  extraordinary  custom,  and  a  confi- 
dence that  has  cost  many  libraries  dear.  The  first 
church  I  went  to  visit  was  St.  Croix;  it  has  been  a 
stately  fabric,  but  now  much  ruined  by  the  late  civil 
wars.  They  report  the  tower  of  it  to  have  been  the 
highest  in  France.  There  is  the  beginning  of  a  fair 
reparation.  About  this  cathedral  there  is  a  very  spa- 
cious cemetery.  The  townhouse  is  also  very  nobly 
built,  with  a  high  tower  to  it.  The  market  place  and 
streets,  some  whereof  are  deliciously  planted  with  limes, 
are  ample  and  straight,  so  well  paved  with  a  kind  of 
pebble,  that  I  have  not  seen  a  neater  town  in  France, 
In  fine,  this  city  was  by  Francis  I.  esteemed  the  most 
agreeable   of  his   vast   dominions. 

28th  April,  1644.  Taking  boat  on  the  Loire,  I  went 
toward  Blois,  the  passage  and  river  being  both  very 
pleasant.  Passing  Mehun,  we  dined  at  Baugenci,  and 
slept  at  a  little  town  called  St.  Dieu.  Quitting  our  bark, 
we  hired  horses  to  Blois,  by  the  way  of  Chambord,  a 
famous  house  of  the  King's,  built  by  Francis  I.  in  the 
middle  of  a  solitary  park,  full   of   deer,  inclosed    with    a 


68  DIARY   OF  blois 

wall.  I  was  particularly  desirous  of  seeing  this  palace, 
from  the  extravagance  of  the  design,  especially  the  stair- 
case, mentioned  by  Palladio.  It  is  said  that  1800  work- 
men were  constantly  employed  in  this  fabric  for  twelve 
years:  if  so,  it  is  wonderful  that  it  was  not  finished,  it 
being  no  greater  than  divers  gentlemen's  houses  in  Eng- 
land, both  for  room  and  circuit.  The  carvings  are  indeed 
very  rich  and  full.  The  staircase  is  devised  with  four 
entries,  or  assents,  which  cross  one  another,  so  that 
though  four  persons  meet,  they  never  come  in  sight,  but 
by  small  loopholes,  till  they  land.  It  consists  of  274 
steps  (as  I  remember),  and  is  an  extraordinary  work, 
but  of  far  greater  expense  than  use  or  beauty.  The 
chimneys  of  the  house  appear  like  so  many  towers.  About 
the  whole  is  a  large  deep  moat.  The  country  about  is 
full  of  com,  and  wine,  with  many  fair  noblemen's  houses. 
We  arrived  at  Blois  in  the  evening.  The  town  is  hilly, 
uneven,  and  rugged,  standing  on  the  side  of  the  Loire, 
having  suburbs  joined  by  a  stately  stone  bridge,  on  which 
is  a  pyramid  with  an  inscription.  At  the  entrance  of 
the  castle  is  a  stone  statue  of  Louis  XII.  on  horseback, 
as  large  as  life,  under  a  Gothic  state;  and  a  little  below 
are  these  words: 

*  Hie  ubi  natus  erat  dextro  Ludovicus  Olympo, 

Siimpsit  honoratS.  regia  sceptra  manu; 

Felix  quae  tanti  fulsit  Lux  nuncia  Regis  ! 

Gallica  non  alio  principe  digna  fuit.>> 

Under  this  is  a  very  wide  pair  of  gates,  nailed  full  of 
wolves  and  wild-boars'  heads.  Behind  the  castle  the 
present  Duke  Gaston  had  begun  a  fair  building,  through 
which  we  walked  into  a  large  garden,  esteemed  for  its 
furniture  one  of  the  fairest,  especially  for  simples  and 
exotic  plants,  in  which  he  takes  extraordinary  delight. 
On  the  right  hand  is  a  long  gallery  full  of  ancient  statues 
and  inscriptions,  both  of  marble  and  brass;  the  length, 
300  paces,  divides  the  garden  into  higher  and  lower 
ground,  having  a  very  noble  fountain.  There  is  the  por- 
trait of  a  hart,  taken  in  the  forest  by  Louis  XII.,  which 
has  twenty-four  antlers  on  its  head.  In  the  Collegiate 
Church  of  St.  Savior,  we  saw  many  sepulchres  of  the 
Earls  of  Blois. 

On  Sunday,  being  May-day,  we  walked  up  into  Pall 
Mall,    very   long,   and  so    noble    shaded    with  tall   trees 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  69 

(being  in  the  midst  of  a  great  wood),  that  unless  that  of 
Tours,   I  had  not  seen  a  statelier. 

From  hence,  we  proceeded  with  a  friend  of  mine  through 
the  adjoining  forest,  to  see  if  we  could  meet  any  wolves, 
which  are  here  in  such  numbers  that  they  often  come 
and  take  children  out  of  the  very  streets ;  yet  will  not  the 
Duke,  who  is  sovereign  here,  permit  them  to  be  destroyed. 
We  walked  five  or  six  miles  outright;  but  met  with 
none ;  yet  a  gentleman,  who  was  resting  himself  under  a 
tree,  with  his  horse  grazing  by  him,  told  us  that  half  an 
hour  before,  two  wolves  had  set  upon  his  horse,  and  had 
in  probability  devoured  him,  but  for  a  dog  which  lay  by 
him.  At  a  little  village  at  the  end  of  this  wood,  we  ate 
excellent  cream,  and  visited  a  castle  builded  on  a  very 
steep  cliff. 

Blois  is  a  town  where  the  langfuage  is  exactly  spoken; 
the  inhabitants  very  courteous ;  the  air  so  good,  that  it  is 
the  ordinary  nursery  of  the  King's  children.  The  people 
are  so  ingenious,  that,  for  goldsmith's  work  and  watches, 
no  place  in  France  affords  the  like.  The  pastures  by  the 
river  are  very  rich  and  pleasant. 

2d  May,  1644.  We  took  boat  again,  passing  by  Char- 
mont,  a  proud  castle  on  the  left  hand;  before  it  is  a 
sweet  island,  deliciously  shaded  with  tall  trees.  A  little 
distance  from  hence,  we  went  on  shore  at  Amboise,  a 
very  agreeable  village,  built  of  stone,  and  the  houses 
covered  with  blue  slate,  as  the  towns  on  the  Loire  gen- 
erally are ;  but  the  castle  chiefly  invited  us,  the  thickness 
of  whose  towers  from  the  river  to  the  top,  was  admi- 
rable. We  entered  by  the  drawbridge,  which  has  an 
invention  to  let  one  fall,  if  not  premonished.  It  is  full 
of  halls  and  spacious  chambers,  and  one  staircase  is  large 
enough,  and  sufficiently  commodious,  to  receive  a  coach, 
and  land  it  on  the  very  tower,  as  they  told  us  had  been 
done.  There  is  some  artillery  in  it;  but  that  which  is 
most  observable  is  in  the  ancient  chapel,  viz,  a  stag's 
head,  or  branches,  hung  up  by  chains,  consisting  of 
twenty  browantlers,  the  beam  bigger  than  a  man's  mid- 
dle, and  of  an  incredible  length.  Indeed,  it  is  mon- 
strous, and  yet  I  cannot  conceive  how  it  should  be  artificial 
they  show  also  the  ribs  and  vertebrae  of  the  same  beast; 
but  these  might  be  made  of  whalebone. 

Leaving  the   castle,  we    passed    Mont   Louis,  a  village 


70  DIARY  OF  tours 

having  no  houses  above  ground  but  such  only  as  are 
hewn  out  of  the  main  rocks  of  excellent  freestone.  Here 
and  there  the  funnel  of  a  chimney  appears  on  the  sur- 
face among  the  vineyards  which  are  over  them,  and  in 
this  manner  they  inhabit  the  caves,  as  it  were  sea-cliflEs, 
on  one  side  of  the  river  for  many  miles. 

We  now  came  within  sight  of  Tours,  where  we  were 
designed  for  the  rest  of  the  time  I  had  resolved  to  stay 
in  France,  the  sojournment  being  so  agreeable.  Tours 
is  situate  on  the  east  side  of  a  hill  on  the  river  Loire, 
having  a  fair  bridge  of  stone  called  St.  Edme ;  the  streets 
are  very  long,  straight,  spacious,  well  built,  and  exceed- 
ing clean ;  the  suburbs  large  and  pleasant,  joined  to  the 
city  by  another  bridge.  Both  the  church  and  monastery 
of  St.  Martin  are  large,  of  Gothic  building,  having  four 
square  towers,  fair  organs,  and  a  stately  altar,  where  they 
show  the  bones  and  ashes  of  St.  Martin,  with  other  relics. 
The  Mall  without  comparison  is  the  noblest  in  Europe  for 
length  and  shade,  having  seven  rows  of  the  tallest  and 
goodliest  elms  I  had  ever  beheld,  the  innermost  of  which 
do  so  embrace  each  other,  and  at  such  a  height,  that 
nothing  can  be  more  solemn  and  majestical.  Here  we 
played  a  party,  or  party  or  two,  and  then  walked  about 
the  town  walls,  built  of  square  stone,  filled  with  earth, 
and  having  a  moat.  No  city  in  France  exceeds  it  in 
beauty,  or  delight. 

6th  May,  1644.  We  went  to  St.  Gatian,  reported  to 
have  been  built  by  our  countrymen;  the  dial  and  clock- 
work are  much  esteemed.  The  church  has  two  handsome 
towers  and  spires  of  stone,  and  the  whole  fabric  is  very 
noble  and  venerable.  To  this  joins  the  palace  of  the 
Archbishop,  consisting  both  of  old  and  new  building, 
with  many  fair  rooms,  and  a  fair  garden.  Here  I  grew 
acquainted  with  one  Monsieur  Merey,  a  very  good  mu- 
sician. The  Archbishop  treated  me  very  courteously. 
We  visited  divers  other  churches  chapels,  and  monas' 
teries  for  the  most  part  neatly  built,  and  full  of  pretty 
paintings,  especially  the  Convent  of  the  Capuchins, 
which  has  a  prospect  over  the  whole  city,  and  many  fair 
walks. 

8th  May,  1644.  I  went  to  see  their  manufactures  in 
silk  (for  in  this  town  they  drive  a  very  considerable  trade 
with  silk- worms),  their  pressing   and   watering  the   gro- 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  71 

grams  and  camlets,  with  weights  of  an  extraordinary  poise, 
put  into  a  rolling  engine.  Here  I  took  a  master  of  the 
language,  and  studied  the  tongue  very  diligently,  recre- 
ating myself  sometimes  at  the  Mall,  and  sometimes  aboijt 
the  town.  The  house  opposite  my  lodging  had  been  for- 
merly a  King's  palace;  the  outside  was  totally  covered 
with  fleur-de-lis,  embossed  out  of  the  stone.  Here  Mary 
de  Medicis  held  her  Court,  when  she  was  compelled 
to  retire  from  Paris  by  the  persecution  of  the  great  Cardinal. 

25th  May,  1644.  Was  the  Fete  Dieu,  and  a  goodly 
procession  of  all  the  religious  orders,  the  whole  streets 
hung  with  their  best  tapestries,  and  their  most  precious 
movables  exposed;  silks,  damasks,  velvets,  plate,  and  pic- 
tures in  abundance ;  the  streets  strewed  with  flowers,  and 
full  of  pageantry,  banners,  and  bravery. 

6th  June,  1644.  I  went  by  water  to  visit  that  goodly 
and  venerable  Abbey  of  Marmoutiers,  being  one  of  the 
greatest  in  the  kingdom ;  to  it  is  a  very  ample  church  of 
stone,  with  a  very  high  pyramid.  Among  other  relics 
the  Monks  showed  us  is  the  Holy  AmpouUe,  the  same 
with  that  which  sacres  their  Kings  at  Rheims,  this  being 
the  one  that  anointed  Henry  IV.  Ascending  many 
steps,  we  went  into  the  Abbot's  Palace,  where  we  were 
showed  a  vast  tun  (as  big  as  that  at  Heidelberg),  which 
they  report  St.  Martin  (as  I  remember)  filled  from  one 
cluster  of  grapes  growing  there. 

7th  June,  1644.  We  walked  about  two  miles  from  the 
city  to  an  agreeable  solitude,  called  Du  Plessis,  a  house 
belonging  to  the  King.  It  has  many  pretty  gardens, 
full  of  nightingales;  and,  in  the  chapel,  lies  buried  the 
famous  poet,  Ronsard. 

Returning,  we  stepped  into  a  Convent  of  Franciscans, 
called  St.  Cosmo,  where  the  cloister  is  painted  with  the 
miracles  of  their  St.  Francis  h  Paula,  whose  ashes  lie  in 
their  chapel,  with  this  inscription :  **  Corpus  Sancti  Fran,  ct 
Paula  i^oj,  ij  Aprilis,  concrematur  verb  ab  Hcereticis  anno 
1562^  cujus  quidem  ossa  et  cineres  h\c  jacent.  **  The  tomb  has 
four  small  pyramids  of  marble  at  each  comer. 

9th  June,  1644.  I  was  invited  to  a  vineyard,  which 
was  so  artificially  planted  and  supported  with  arched 
poles,  that  stooping  down  one  might  see  from  end  to 
end,  a  very  great  length,  under  the  vines,  the  bunches 
hanging  down  in  abundance. 


72  DIARY  OF  TOURS 

2oth  June,  1644.  We  took  horse  to  see  certain  natural 
caves,  called  Gouttifere,  near  Colombifere,  where  there  is 
a  spring  within  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  very  deep  and 
so  excessive  cold,  that  the  drops  meeting  with  some 
lapidescent  matter,  it  converts  them  into  a  hard  stone, 
which  hangs  about  it  like  icicles,  having  many  others  in 
the  form  of  comfitures  and  sugar  plums,  as  we  call 
them. 

Near  this,  we  went  under  the  ground  almost  two  fur- 
longs, lighted  with  candles,  to  see  the  source  and  spring 
which  serves  the  whole  city,  by  a  passage  cut  through 
the  main  rock  of  freestone. 

28th  June,  1644.  I  went  to  see  the  palace  and  gardens 
of  Chevereux,  a  sweet  place. 

30th  June,  1644.  I  walked  through  the  vineyards  as 
far  as  Roche  Corb6,  to  the  ruins  of  an  old  and  very 
strong  castle,  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  English,  of 
great  height,  on  the  precipice  of  a  dreadful  cliff,  from 
whence  the  country  and  river  yield  a  most  incomparable 
prospect. 

27th  July,  1644.  I  heard  excellent  music  at  the  Jesuits, 
who  have  here  a  school  and  convent,  but  a  mean  chapel. 
We  have  now  store  of  those  admirable  melons,  so  much 
celebrated  in  France  for  the  best  in  the  kingdom. 

ist  August,  1644.  My  valet,  one  Garro,  a  Spaniard, 
bom  in  Biscao,  having  misbehaved,  I  was  forced  to  dis- 
charge him;  he  demanded  of  me  (besides  his  wages)  no 
less  than  100  crowns  to  carry  him  to  his  country;  refus- 
ing to  pay  it,  as  no  part  of  our  agreement,  he  had  the 
impudence  to  arrest  me;  the  next  day  I  was  to  appear 
in  Court,  where  both  our  avocats  pleaded  before  the 
Lieutenant  Civil;  but  it  was  so  unreasonable  a  pretense, 
that  the  Judge  had  not  patience  to  hear  it  out.  The 
Judge  immediately  acquitted  me,  after  he  had  reproached 
the  avocat  who  took  part  with  my  servant,  he  rose  from 
the  Bench,  and  making  a  courteous  excuse  to  me,  that 
being  a  stranger  I  should  be  so  used,  he  conducted  me 
through  the  court  to  the  street-door.  This  varlet  after- 
ward threatened  to  pistol  me.  The  next  day,  I  waited 
on  the  Lieutenant,  to  thank  him  for  his  great  civility. 

1 8th  August,  1644.  The  Queen  of  England  came  to 
Tours,  having  newly  arrived  in  France,  and  going  for 
Paris.     She    was  very  nobly  received   by  the  people  and 


1 644  JOHN  EVELYN  71 

clergy,  who  went  to  meet  her  with  the  trained  bands. 
After  the  harangue,  the  Archbishop  entertained  her  at 
his  Palace,  where  I  paid  my  duty  to  her.  The  20th  she 
set  forward  to  Paris 

8th  September,  1644.  Two  of  my  kinsmen  came  from 
Paris  to  this  place,  where  I  settled  them  in  their  pension 
and  exercises. 

14th  September,  1644.  We  took  post  for  Richelieu, 
passing  by  I'lsle  Bouchard,  a  village  in  the  way.  The 
next  day,  we  arrived,  and  went  to  see  the  Cardinal's 
Palace,  near  it.  The  town  is  built  in  a  low,  marshy 
ground,  having  a  narrow  river  cut  by  hand,  very  even 
and  straight,  capable  of  bringing  up  a  small  vessel.  It 
consists  of  only  one  considerable  street,  the  houses  on 
both  sides  ( as  indeed  throughout  the  town )  built  exactly 
uniform,  after  a  modem  handsome  design.  It  has  a 
large  goodly  market  house  and  place,  opposite  to  which 
is  the  church  built  of  freestone,  having  two  pyramids  of 
stone,  which  stand  hollow  from  the  towers.  The  church 
is  well  built,  and  of  a  well-ordered  architecture,  within 
handsomely  paved  and  adorned.  To  this  place  belongs 
an  Academy,  where,  besides  the  exercise  of  the  horse, 
arms,  dancing,  etc.,  all  the  sciences  are  taught  in  the 
vulgar  French  by  professors  stipendiated  by  the  great  Car- 
dinal, who  by  this,  the  cheap  living  there,  and  divers  privi- 
leges, not  only  designed  the  improvement  of  the  vulgar 
language,  but  to  draw  people  and  strangers  to  the  town ; 
but  since  the  Cardinal's  death,  it  is  thinly  inhabited; 
standing  so  much  out  of  the  way,  and  in  a  place  not 
well  situated  for  health,  or  pleasure.  He  was  allured  to 
build  by  the  name  of  the  place,  and  an  old  house  there 
belonging  to  his  ancestors.  This  pretty  town  is  hand- 
somely walled  about  and  moated,  with  a  kind  of  slight 
fortification,  two  fair  gates  and  drawbridges.  Before 
the  gate,  toward  the  palace,  is  a  spacious  circle,  where 
the  fair  is  annually  kept.  About  a  flight-shot  from  the 
town  is  the  Cardinal's  house,  a  princely  pile,  though  on 
an  old  design,  not  altogether  Gothic,  but  mixed,  and 
environed  by  a  clear  moat.  The  rooms  are  stately,  most 
richly  furnished  with  tissue,  damask,  arras,  and  velvet, 
pictures,  statues,  vases,  and  all  sorts  of  antiquities, 
especially  the  Caesars,  in  oriental  alabaster.  The  long 
gallery  is  painted  with  the  famous    acts  of  the  Founder; 


74  DIARY   OF  boukges 

the  roof  with  the  life  of  Julius  Caesar;  at  the  end  of  it 
is  a  cupola,  or  singing  theatre,  supported  by  very  stately 
pillars  of  black  marble.  The  chapel  anciently  belonged 
to  the  family  of  the  Founder.  The  court  is  very  ample. 
The  gardens  without  are  very  large,  and  the  parterres 
of  excellent  embroidery,  set  with  many  statues  of  brass 
and  marble;  the  groves,  meadows,  and  walks  are  a  real 
Paradise. 

1 6th  September,  1644.  We  returned  to  Tours,  from 
whence,  after  nineteen  weeks'  sojourn,  we  traveled  to- 
ward the  more  southern  part  of  France,  minding  now 
to  shape  my  course  so,  as  I  might  winter  in  Italy.  With 
my  friend,  Mr.  Thicknesse,  and  our  guide,  we  went  the 
first  day  seven  leagues  to  a  castle  called  Chenonceau, 
built  by  Catherine  de  Medicis,  and  now  belonging  to  the 
Duke  de  Vendome,  standing  on  a  bridge.  In  the  gallery, 
among  divers  other  excellent  statues,  is  that  of  Scipio 
Africanus,  of  oriental  alabaster. 

2ist  September,  1644,  We  passed  by  Villefranche,  where 
we  dined,  and  so  by  Muneton,  lying  at  Viaron-au-mouton, 
which  was  twenty  leagues.  The  next  day  by  Murg  to 
Bourges,  four  leagues,  where  we  spent  the  day.  This  is 
the  capital  of  Berry,  an  University  much  frequented  by 
the  Dutch,  situated  on  the  river  Eure.  It  stands  high, 
is  strong,  and  well  placed  for  defense;  is  environed  with 
meadows  and  vines,  and  the  living  here  is  very  cheap. 
In  the  suburbs  of  St.  Priv6,  there  is  a  fountain  of  sharp 
water  which  they  report  wholesome  against  the  stone. 
They  showed  us  a  vast  tree  which  they  say  stands  in  the 
center  of  France.  The  French  tongue  is  spoken  with 
great  purity  in  this  place.  St.  Stephen's  church  is  the 
cathedral,  well  built  h  la  Gothigue,  full  of  sepulchres  with- 
out-side, with  the  representation  of  the  final  Judgment 
over  one  of  the  ports.  Here  they  show  the  chapel  of 
Claude  de  la  Chastre,  a  famous  soldier  who  had  served 
six  kings  of  France  in  their  wars.  St.  Chapelle  is  built 
much  like  that  at  Paris,  full  of  relics,  and  containing  the 
bones  of  one  Briat,  a  giant  of  fifteen  cubits  high.  It  was 
erected  by  John,  Duke  of  Berry,  and  there  is  showed  the 
coronet  of  the  ^ukedom.  The  great  tower  is  a  Pharos 
for  defense  of  the  town,  very  strong,  in  thickness  eigh- 
teen feet,  fortified  with  graffs  and  works ;  there  is  a  garri- 
son in  it,  and  a  strange  engine  for  throwing  great  stones, 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  75 

and  the  iron  cage  where  Louis,  Duke  of  Orleans,  was 
kept  by  Charles  VIII.  Near  the  Town-house  stands  the 
College  of  Jesuits,  where  was  heretofore  an  Amphitheater, 
I  was  courteously  entertained  by  a  Jesuit,  who  had  us 
into  the  garden,  where  we  fell  into  disputation.  The 
house  of  Jaques  Coeur  is  worth  seeing.  Bourges  is  an 
Archbishopric  and  Primacy  of  Aquitaine.  I  took  my  leave 
of  Mr.  Nicholas,  and  some  other  English  there;  and,  on 
the  23d,  proceeded  on  my  journey  by  Pont  du  Charge; 
and  lay  that  evening  at  Coulaiure,  thirteen  leagues. 

24th  September,  1644.  By  Franchesse,  St.  Menoux, 
thence  to  Moulins,  where  we  dined.  This  is  the  chief 
town  of  the  Bourbonnois,  on  the  river  Allier,  very  nav- 
igable. The  streets  are  fair ;  the  castle  has  a  noble  pros- 
pect, and  has  been  the  seat  of  the  Dukes.  Here  is  a 
pretty  park  and  garden.  After  dinner,  came  many  who 
offered  knives  and  scissors  to  sell ;  it  being  a  town  famous 
for  these  trifles.  This  Duchy  of  Bourbon  is  ordinarily 
assigned  for  the  dowry  of  the  Queens  of  France. 

Hence,  we  took  horse  for  Varennes,  an  obscure  village, 
where  we  lay  that  night.  The  next  day,  we  went  some- 
what out  of  the  way  to  see  the  town  of  Bourbon  I'Arch- 
ambaut,  from  whose  ancient  and  rugged  castle  is  derived 
the  name  of  the  present  Royal  Family  of  France.  The 
castle  stands  on  a  flinty  rock,  overlooking  the  town.  In 
the  midst  of  the  streets  are  some  baths  of  medicinal 
waters,  some  of  them  excessive  hot,  but  nothing  so  neatly 
walled  and  adorned  as  ours  in  Somersetshire ;  and  indeed 
they  are  chiefly  used  to  drink  of,  our  Queen  being  then 
lodged  there  for  that  purpose.  After  dinner,  I  went  to 
see  the  St.  Chapelle,  a  prime  place  of  devotion,  where  is 
kept  one  of  the  thorns  of  our  Savior's  crown,  and  a  piece 
of  the  real  cross;  excellent  paintings  on  glass,  and  some 
few  statues  of  stone  and  wood,  which  they  show  for  curi- 
osities. Hence,  we  went  forward  to  La  Palise,  a  village 
that  lodged  us  that  night. 

26th  September,  1644.  We  arrived  at  Roane,  where  we 
quitted  our  guide,  and  took  post  for  Lyons,  Roane 
seemed  to  me  one  of  the  pleasantest  and  most  agreeable 
places  imaginable,  for  a  retired  person:  for,  besides  the 
situation  on  the  Loire,  there  are  excellent  provisions 
cheap  and  abundant.  It  being  late  when  we  left  this 
town,  we  rode  no  further  than  Tarare  that  night  (passing 


76  DIARY  OP  LYONS 

St.  Saforin),  a  little  desolate  village  in  a  valley  near  a 
pleasant  stream,  encompassed  with  fresh  meadows  and 
vineyards.  The  hills  which  we  rode  over  before  we  de- 
scended, and  afterward,  on  the  Lyons  side  of  this  place, 
are  high  and  mountainous;  fir  and  pines  growing  fre- 
quently on  them.  The  air  methought  was  much  altered 
as  well  as  the  manner  of  the  houses,  which  are  built 
flatter,  more  after  the  eastern  manner.  Before  I  went 
to  bed,  I  took  a  landscape  of  this  pleasant  terrace.  There 
followed  a  most  violent  tempest  of  thunder  and  lightning. 
27th  September,  1644.  We  rode  by  Pont  Charu  to 
Lyons,  which  being  but  six  leagues  we  soon  accom- 
plished, having  made  eighty-five  leagues  from  Tours  in 
seven  days.  Here  at  the  Golden  Lion,  rue  de  Flandre,  I 
met  divers  of  my  acquaintance,  who,  coming  from  Paris, 
were  designed  for  Italy.  We  lost  no  time  in  seeing  the 
city,  because  of  being  ready  to  accompany  these  gentle- 
men in  their  journey.  Lyons  is  excellently  situated  on 
the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Soane  and  Rhone,  which 
wash  the  walls  of  the  city  in  a  very  rapid  stream;  each 
of  these  has  its  bridge;  that  over  the  Rhone  consists  of 
twenty-eight  arches.  The  two  high  cliffs,  called  St.  Just 
and  St,  Sebastian,  are  very  stately;  on  one  of  them  stands 
a  strong  fort,  garrisoned.  We  visited  the  cathedral,  St. 
Jean,  where  was  one  of  the  fairest  clocks  for  art  and 
busy  invention  I  had  ever  seen.  The  fabric  of  the 
church  is  gothic,  as  are  likewise  those  of  St.  Etienne  and 
St.  Croix.  From  the  top  of  one  of  the  towers  of  St. 
Jean  (for  it  has  four)  we  beheld  the  whole  city  and 
country,  with  a  prospect  reaching  to  the  Alps,  many 
leagues  distant.  The  Archbishop's  palace  is  fairly  built. 
The  church  of  St.  Nisier  is  the  greatest;  that  of  the 
Jacobins  is  well  built.  Here  are  divers  other  fine 
churches  and  very  noble  buildings  we  had  not  time  to 
visit,  only  that  of  the  Charit6,  or  great  hospital  for  poor, 
infirm  people,  entertaining  about  1,500  souls,  with  a  school, 
granary,  gardens,  and  all  conveniences,  maintained  at  a 
wonderful  expense,  worthy  seeing.  The  place  of  the  Belle 
Cour  is  very  spacious,  observable  for  the  view  it  affords, 
so  various  and  agreeable,  of  hills,  rocks,  vineyards,  gar- 
dens, precipices,  and  other  extravagant  and  incomparable 
advantages  presenting  themselves  together.  The  Pall 
Mall  is  set  with    fair   trees.     In   fine,  this  stately,  clean, 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  77 

and  noble  city,  built  all  of  stone,  abounds  in  persons  of 
quality  and  rich  merchants:  those  of  Florence  obtaining 
great  privileges  above  the  rest.  In  the  Town-house,  they 
show  two  tables  of  brass,  on  which  is  engraven  Claudius's 
speech,  pronounced  to  the  Senate,  concerning  the  fran- 
chising of  the  town,  with  the  Roman  privileges.  There 
are  also  other  antiquities. 

30th  September,  1644.  We  bargained  with  a  waterman 
to  carry  us  to  Avignon  on  the  river,  and  got  the  first 
night  to  Vienne,  in  Dauphin^.  This  is  an  Archbishopric, 
and  the  province  gives  title  to  the  heir-apparent  of 
France.  Here  we  supped  and  lay,  having  among  other 
dainties,  a  dish  of  truffles,  which  is  a  certain  earth-nut, 
found  out  by  a  hog  trained  to  it,  and  for  which  those 
animals  are  sold  at  a  great  price.  It  is  in  truth  an  in- 
comparable meat.  We  were  shown  the  ruins  of  an 
amphitheatre,  pretty  entire ;  and  many  handsome  palaces, 
especially  that  of  Pontius  Pilate,  not  far  from  the  town, 
at  the  foot  of  a  solitary  mountain,  near  the  river,  having 
four  pinnacles.  Here  it  is  reported  he  passed  his  exile, 
and  precipitated  himself  into  the  lake  not  far  from  it. 
The  house  is  modem,  and  seems  to  be  the  seat  of  some 
gentleman;  being  in  a  very  pleasant,  though  melancholy 
place.  The  cathedral  of  Vienne  is  St.  Maurice;  and 
there  are  many  other  pretty  buildings,  but  nothing  more 
so,  than  the  mills  where  they  hammer  and  polish  the 
sword  blades. 

Hence,  the  next  morning  we  swam  ( for  the  river  here 
is  so  rapid  that  the  boat  was  only  steered)  to  a  small 
village  called  Thein,  where  we  dined.  Over  against  this 
is  another  town,  named  Toumon,  where  is  a  very  strong 
castle  under  a  high  precipice.  To  the  castle  joins  the 
Jesuits'  College,  who  have  a  fair  library.  The  prospect 
was  so  tempting,  that  I  could  not  forbear  designing  it 
with  my  crayon. 

We  then  came  to  Valence,  a  capital  city  carrying  the 
title  of  a  Duchy;  but  the  Bishop  is  now  sole  Lord  tem- 
poral of  it,  and  the  country  about  it.  The  town  having 
a  University  famous  for  the  study  of  the  civil  law,  is 
much  frequented ;  but  the  churches  are  none  of  the  fairest, 
having  been  greatly  defaced  in  the  time  of  the  wars. 
The  streets  are  full  of  pretty  fountains.  The  citadel  is 
strong  and  garrisoned.     Here   we   passed   the  night,  and 


78  DIARY  OF  avignon 

the  next  morning  by  Pont  St.  Esprit,  which  consists  of 
twenty-two  arches;  in  the  piers  of  the  arches  are  windows, 
as  it  were,  to  receive  the  water  when  it  is  high  and  full. 
Here  we  went  on  shore,  it  being  very  dangerous  to  pass 
the  bridge  in  a  boat. 

Hence,  leaving  our  barge,  we  took  horse,  seeing  at  a 
distance  the  town  and  principality  of  Orange ;  and,  lodging 
one  night  on  the  way,  we  arrived  at  noon  at  Avignon. 
This  town  has  belonged  to  the  Popes  ever  since  the  time 
of  Clement  V.;  being,  in  1352,  alienated  by  Jane,  Queen 
of  Naples  and  Sicily.  Entering  the  gates,  the  soldiers 
at  the  guard  took  our  pistols  and  carbines,  and  examined 
us  very  strictly ;  after  that,  having  obtained  the  Governor's 
and  the  Vice-Legate's  leave  to  tarry  three  days,  we  were 
civilly  conducted  to  our  lodging.  The  city  is  on  the 
Rhone,  and  divided  from  the  newer  part,  or  town,  which 
is  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  by  a  very  fair  stone 
bridge  ( which  has  been  broken ) ;  at  one  end  is  a  very 
high  rock,  on  which  is  a  strong  castle  well  furnished 
with  artillery.  The  walls  of  the  city  are  of  large,  square 
freestone,  the  most  neat  and  best  in  repair  I  ever  saw. 
It  is  full  of  well-built  palaces;  those  of  the  Vice-Legate 
and  Archbishop  being  the  most  magnificent.  There  are 
many  sumptuous  churches,  especially  that  of  St.  Magda- 
lene and  St.  Martial,  wherein  the  tomb  of  the  Cardinal 
d'Amboise  is  the  most  observable.  Clement  VI.  lies 
buried  in  that  of  the  Celestines,  the  altar  whereof  is  ex- 
ceedingly rich :  but  for  nothing  I  more  admired  it  than  the 
tomb  of  Madonna  Laura,  the  celebrated  mistress  of 
Petrarch.  We  saw  the  Arsenal,  the  Pope's  palace,  and 
the  Synagogue  of  the  Jews,  who  here  are  distinguished 
by  their  red  hats.  Vaucluse,  so  much  renowned  for  the 
solitude  of  Petrarch,  we  beheld  from  the  castle;  but 
could  not  go  to  visit  it  for  want  of  time,  being  now 
taking  mules  and  a  guide  for  Marseilles. 

We  lay  at  Loumas;  the  next  morning,  came  to  Aix, 
having  passed  that  extremely  rapid  and  dangerous  river 
of  Durance.  In  this  tract,  all  the  heaths,  or  commons, 
are  covered  with  rosemary,  lavender,  lentiscus,  and  the 
like  sweet  shrubs,  for  many  miles  together;  which  to  me 
was  very  pleasant.  Aix  is  the  chief  city  of  Provence, 
being  a  Parliament  and  Presidential  town,  with  other 
royal    Courts   and    Metropolitan    jurisdiction.     It  is    well 


i644  JOHN  EVELYN  79 

built,  the  houses  very  high,  and  the  streets  ample.  The 
Cathedral,  St.  Savior's,  is  a  noble  pile  adorned  with  in- 
numerable figures;  especially  that  of  St.  Michael;  the 
Baptisterie,  the  Palace,  the  Court,  built  in  a  most  spac- 
ious piazza,  are  very  fair.  The  Duke  of  Guise's  house 
Is  worth  seeing,  being  furnished  with  many  antiquities 
in  and  about  it.  The  Jesuits  have  here  a  royal  College, 
'And  the  City  is  a  University. 

7th  October,  1644.  We  had  a  most  delicious  journey 
to  Marseilles,  through  a  country  sweetly  declining  to  the 
south  and  Mediterranean  coasts,  full  of  vineyards  and 
olive-yards,  orange  trees,  myrtles,  pomegranates,  and 
the  like  sweet  plantations,  to  which  belong  pleasantly- 
situated  villas  to  the  number  of  above  1,500,  built  all  of 
freestone,  and  in  prospect  showing  as  if  they  were  so 
many  heaps  of  snow  dropped  out  of  the  clouds  among 
those  perennial  greens.  It  was  almost  at  the  shutting 
of  the  gates  that  we  arrived.  Marseilles  is  on  the  sea- 
coast,  on  a  pleasant  rising  ground,  well  walled,  with  an 
excellent  port  for  ships  and  galleys,  secured  by  a  huge 
chain  of  iron  drawn  across  the  harbor  at  pleasure;  and 
there  is  a  well-fortified  tower  with  three  other  forts, 
especially  that  built  on  a  rock;  but  the  castle  command- 
ing the  city  is  that  of  Notre  Dame  de  la  Garde.  In  the 
chapel  hung  up  are  divers  crocodiles*  skins. 

We  went  then  to  visit  the  galleys,  being  about  twenty- 
five  in  number;  the  Capitaine  of  the  Galley  Royal  gave 
us  most  courteous  entertainment  in  his  cabin,  the  slaves 
in  the  interim  playing  both  loud  and  soft  music  very 
rarely.  Then  he  showed  us  how  he  commanded  their 
motions  with  a  nod,  and  his  whistle  making  them  row 
out.  The  spectacle  was  to  me  new  and  strange,  to  see 
so  many  hundreds  of  miserably  naked  persons,  their 
heads  being  shaven  close,  and  having  only  high  red 
bonnets,  a  pair  of  coarse  canvas  drawers,  their  whole 
backs  and  legs  naked,  doubly  chained  about  their  middle 
and  legs,  in  couples,  and  made  fast  to  their  seats,  and 
all  commanded  in  a  trice  by  an  imperious  and  cruel 
seaman.  One  Turk  among  the  rest  he  much  favored, 
who  waited  on  him  in  his  cabin,  but  with  no  other  dress 
than  the  rest,  and  a  chain  locked  about  his  leg,  but  not 
coupled.  This  galley  was  richly  carved  and  gilded,  and 
most   of   the  rest  were  very  beautiful.     After   bestowing 


8o  DIARY  OF  perigueux 

something  on  the  slaves,  the  capitaine  sent  a  band  of 
them  to  give  us  music  at  dinner  where  we  lodged.  I 
was  amazed  to  contemplate  how  these  miserable  caitiffs 
lie  in  their  galley  crowded  together ;  yet  there  was  hardly 
one  but  had  some  occupation,  by  which,  as  leisure  and 
calms  permitted,  they  got  some  little  money,  insomuch 
as  some  of  them  have,  after  many  years  of  cruel  servi- 
tude, been  able  to  purchase  their  liberty.  The  rising- 
forward  and  falling-back  at  their  oar,  is  a  miserable 
spectacle,  and  the  noise  of  their  chains,  with  the  roaring 
of  the  beaten  waters,  has  something  of  strange  and  fear- 
ful in  it  to  one  unaccustomed  to  it.  They  are  ruled  and 
chastised  by  strokes  on  their  backs  and  soles  of  their 
feet,  on  the  least  disorder,  and  without  the  least  humanity, 
yet  are  they  cheerful  and  full  of  knavery. 

After  dinner,  we  saw  the  church  of  St.  Victoire,  where 
is  that  saint's  head  in  a  shrine  of  silver,  which  weighs 
600  pounds.  Thence  to  Notre  Dame,  exceedingly 
well  built,  which  is  the  cathedral.  Thence  to  the  Duke 
of  Guise's  Palace,  the  Palace  of  Justice,  and  the  Maison 
du  Roi;  but  nothing  is  more  strange  than  the  great 
number  of  slaves  working  in  the  streets,  and  carrying 
burdens,  with  their  confused  noises,  and  jingling  of 
their  huge  chains.  The  chief  trade  of  the  town  is  in 
silks  and  drugs  out  of  Africa,  Syria,  and  Egypt,  and 
Barbary  horses,  which  are  brought  hither  in  great 
numbers.  The  town  is  governed  by  four  captains,  has 
three  consuls,  ■  and  one  assessor,  three  judges  royal ;  the 
merchants  have  a  judge  for  ordinary  causes.  Here  we 
bought  umbrellas  against  the  heats,  and  consulted  of  our 
journey  to  Cannes  by  land,  for  fear  of  the  Picaroon 
Turks,  who  make  prize  of  any  small  vessels  about  these 
parts;  we  not  finding  a  galley  bound  for  Genoa,  whither 
we  were  designed. 

9th  October,  1644.  We  took  mules,  passing  the  first 
night  very  late  in  sight  of  St.  Baume,  and  the  solitary 
grot  where  they  affirmed  Mary  Magdalen  did  her  pen- 
ance. The  next  day,  we  lay  at  Perigueux,  a  city  built 
on  an  old  foundation ;  witness  the  ruins  of  a  most  stately 
amphitheatre,  which  I  went  out  to  design,  being  about  a 
flight-shot  from  the  town;  they  call  it  now  the  Rolsies. 
There  is  also  a  strong  tower  near  the  town,  called 
the  Visone,  but  the  town  and  city  are   at  some   distance 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  8i 

from  each  other.  It  is  a  bishopric;  has  a  cathedral 
with  divers  noblemen's  houses  in  sight  of  the  sea.  The 
place  was  formerly  called  Forum  Julij,  well  known  by 
antiquaries. 

loth  October,  1644.  We  proceeded  by  the  ruins  of  a 
stately  aqueduct.  The  soil  about  the  country  is  rocky, 
full  of  pines  and  rare  simples. 

nth  October,  1644.  We  lay  at  Cannes,  which  is  a 
small  port  on  the  Mediterranean;  here  we  agreed  with 
a  seaman  to  carry  us  to  Genoa,  and,  having  procured  a 
bill  of  health  (without  which  there  is  no  admission  at  any 
town  in  Italy),  we  embarked  on  the  12th.  We  touched 
at  the  islands  of  St.  Margaret  and  St.  Honore,  lately  re- 
taken from  the  Spaniards  with  great  bravery  by  Prince 
Harcourt.  Here,  having  paid  some  small  duty,  we 
bought  some  trifles  oflfered  us  by  the  soldiers,  but  with- 
out going  on  shore.  Hence,  we  coasted  within  two  leagues 
of  Antibes,  which  is  the  utmost  town  in  France.  Thence 
by  Nice,  a  city  in  Savoy,  built  all  of  brick,  which  gives 
it  a  very  pleasant  appearance  toward  the  sea,  having  a 
very  high  castle  which  commands  it.  We  sailed  by 
Morgus,  now  called  Monaco,  having  passed  Villa  Franca, 
heretofore  Portus  Herculis,  when,  arriving  after  the  gates 
were  shut,  we  were  forced  to  abide  all  night  in  the 
barge,  which  was  put  into  the  haven,  the  wind  coming 
contrary.  In  the  morning,  we  were  hastened  away,  hav- 
ing no  time  permitted  us  by  our  avaricious  master  to  go 
up  and  see  this  strong  and  considerable  place,  which 
now  belongs  to  a  prince  of  the  family  of  Grimaldi,  of 
Genoa,  who  has  put  both  it  and  himself  under  the  pro- 
tection of  the  French.  The  situation  is  on  a  promontory 
of  solid  stone  and  rock.  The  town  walls  very  fair.  We 
were  told  that  within  it  was  an  ample  court,  and  a 
palace,  furnished  with  the  most  rich  and  princely  mov- 
ables, and  a  collection  of  statues,  pictures,  and  massy 
plate  to  an  immense  amount. 

We  sailed  by  Menton  and  Ventimiglia,  being  the  first 
city  of  the  republic  of  Genoa;  supped  at  Oneglia,  where 
we  anchored  and  lay  on  shore.  The  next  morning,  we 
coasted  in  view  of  the  Isle  of  Corsica,  and  St.  Remo, 
where  the  shore  is  furnished  with  evergreens,  oranges, 
citrons,  and  date  trees;  we  lay  at  Port  Mauritio.  The 
next  morning  by  Diano,  Araisso,  famous  for  the  best 
6 


82  DIARY   OF  SAVONA 

coral  fishing,  growing  in  abundance  on  the  rocks,  deep 
and  continually  covered  by  the  sea.  By  Albenga  and 
Finale,  a  very  fair  and  strong  town  belonging  to  the 
King  of  Spain,  for  which  reason  a  monsieur  in  our  ves- 
sel was  extremely  afraid,  as  was  the  patron  of  our  bark, 
for  they  frequently  catch  French  prizes  as  they  creep  by 
these  shores  to  go  into  Italy ;  he  therefore  plied  both  sails 
and  oars,  to  get  under  the  protection  of  a  Genoese  gal- 
ley that  passed  not  far  before  us,  and  in  whose  company 
we  sailed  as  far  as  the  Cape  of  Savona,  a  town  built  at  the 
rise  of  the  Apennines:  for  all  this  coast  (except  a  little 
of  St.  Remo)  is  a  high  and  steep  mountainous  gpround, 
consisting  all  of  rock-marble,  without  any  grass,  tree,  or 
rivage,  formidable  to  look  on.  A  strange  object  it  is,  to 
consider  how  some  poor  cottages  stand  fast  on  the  de- 
clivities of  these  precipices,  and  by  what  steps  the  inhab- 
itants ascend  to  them.  The  rock  consists  of  all  sorts  of 
the  most  precious  marbles. 

Here,  on  the  15th,  forsaking  our  galley,  we  encoun- 
tered a  little  foul  weather,  which  made  us  creep  terra, 
terra,  as  they  call  it,  and  so  a  vessel  that  encountered 
us  advised  us  to  do;  but  our  patron,  striving  to  double 
the  point  of  Savona,  making  out  into  the  wind  put  us 
into  great  hazard;  for  blowing  very  hard  from  land  be- 
tween those  horrid  gaps  of  the  mountains,  it  set  so  vio- 
lently, as  raised  on  the  sudden  so  great  a  sea,  that  we 
could  not  recover  the  weather-shore  for  many  hours, 
insomuch  that,  what  with  the  water  already  entered,  and 
the  confusion  of  fearful  passengers  (of  which  one  was 
an  Irish  bishop,  and  his  brother,  a  priest,  were  confess- 
ing some  as  at  the  article  of  death),  we  were  almost 
abandoned  to  despair,  our  pilot  himself  giving  us  up  for 
lost.  And  now,  as  we  were  weary  with  pumping  and 
laving  out  the  water,  almost  sinking,  it  pleased  God  on 
the  sudden  to  appease  the  wind,  and  with  much  ado  and 
great  peril  we  recovered  the  shore,  which  we  now  kept 
in  view  within  half  a  league  in  sight  of  those  pleasant 
villas,  and  within  scent  of  those  fragrant  orchards  which 
are  on  this  coast,  full  of  princely  retirements  for  the 
sumptuousness  of  their  buildings,  and  nobleness  of  the 
plantations,  especially  those  at  St.  Pietro  d'Arena;  from 
whence,  the  wind  blowing  as  it  did,  might  perfectly  be 
smelt  the  peculiar  joys  of  Italy  in  the  perfumes  of  orange, 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  83 

citron,  and  jasmine  flowers,  for  divers  leagues  sea- 
ward. * 

1 6th  October,  1644.  We  got  to  anchor  under  the  Pharos, 
or  watch-tower,  built  on  a  high  rock  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Mole  of  Genoa,  the  weather  being  still  so  foul  that  for 
two  hours  at  least  we  durst  not  stand  into  the  haven. 
Toward  evening  we  adventured,  and  came  on  shore  by 
the  Prattique-house,  where,  after  strict  examination  by 
the  Syndics,  we  were  had  to  the  Ducal  Palace,  and  there 
our  names  being  taken,  we  were  conducted  to  our  inn, 
kept  by  one  Zacharias,  an  Englishman.  I  shall  never 
forget  a  story  of  our  host  Zachary,  who,  on  the  relation 
of  our  peril,  told  us  another  of  his  own,  being  ship- 
wrecked, as  he  affirmed  solemnly,  in  the  middle  of  a  great 
sea  somewhere  in  the  West  Indies,  that  he  swam  no  less 
than  twenty-two  leagues  to  another  island,  with  a  tinder- 
box  wrapped  up  in  his  hair,  which  was  not  so  much  as 
wet  all  the  way;  that  picking  up  the  carpenter's  tools 
with  other  provisions  in  a  chest,  he  and  the  carpenter, 
who  accompanied  him  (good  swimmers  it  seems  both), 
floated  the  chest  before  them;  and,  arriving  at  last  in  a 
place  full  of  wood,  they  built  another  vessel,  and  so 
escaped!  After  this  story,  we  no  more  talked  of  our 
danger;  Zachary  put  us  quite  down. 

17th  October,  1644.  Accompanied  by  a  most  courteous 
marchand,  called  Tomson,  we  went  to  view  the  rarities. 
The  city  is  built  in  the  hollow  or  bosom  of  a  mountain, 
whose  ascent  is  very  steep,  high,  and  rocky,  so  that, 
from  the  Lantern  and  Mole  to  the  hill,  it  represents  the 
shape  of  a  theater;  the  streets  and  buildings  so  ranged 
one  above  another,  as  our  seats  are  in  the  playhouses; 
but,  from  their  materials,  beauty,  and  structure,  never 
was  an  artificial  scene  more  beautiful  to  the  eye,  nor  is 
any  place,  for  the  size  of  it,  so  full  of  well-designed  and 
stately  palaces,  as  may  be  easily  concluded  by  that  rare 
book  in  a  large  folio  which  the  great  virtuoso  and  painter, 
Paul  Rubens,  has  published,  though  it  contains  [the  de- 
scription of]  only  one   street  and  two  or  three  churches. 

The  first  palace  we  went  to  visit  was  that  of  Hieronymo 
del  Negros,  to  which  we  passed  by  boat   across  the  har- 

*  Evelyn  seems  to  have  been  much  enchanted  by  the  fragrancy  of 
the  air  of  this  coast,  for  he  has  noticed  it  again  in  his  dedication  of 
the  « Fumifugium,»  to  Charles  the  Second. 


84  DIARY  OF  Genoa 

bor.  Here  I  could  not  but  observe  the  sudden  and  devil- 
ish passion  of  a  seaman,  who  plying  us  was  intercepted 
by  another  fellow,  that  interposed  his  boat  before  him 
and  took  us  in;  for  the  tears  gushing  out  of  his  eyes,  he 
put  his  finger  in  his  mouth  and  almost  bit  it  off  by  the 
joint,  showing  it  to  his  antagonist  as  an  assurance  to  him 
of  some  bloody  revenge,  if  ever  he  came  near  that  part 
of  the  harbor  again.  Indeed  this  beautiful  city  is  more 
stained  with  such  horrid  acts  of  revenge  and  murders, 
than  any  one  place  in  Europe,  or  haply  in  the  world, 
where  there  is  a  political  government,  which  makes  it 
unsafe  to  strangers.  It  is  made  a  galley  matter  to  carry  a 
knife  whose  point  is  not  broken  off. 

This  palace  of  Negros  is  richly  furnished  with  the  rarest 
pictures ;  on  the  terrace,  or  hilly  garden,  there  is  a  grove 
of  stately  trees,  among  which  are  sheep,  shepherds,  and 
wild  beasts,  cut  very  artificially  in  a  gray  stone;  foun- 
tains, rocks,  and  fish  ponds ;  casting  your  eyes  one  way, 
you  would  imagine  yourself  in  a  wilderness  and  silent 
country;  sideways,  in  the  heart  of  a  great  city;  and  back- 
ward, in  the  midst  of  the  sea.  All  this  is  within  one 
acre  of  ground.  In  the  house,  I  noticed  those  red-plaster 
floors  which  are  made  so  hard,  and  kept  so  polished,  that 
for  some  time  one  would  take  them  for  whole  pieces  of 
porphyry.  I  have  frequently  wondered  that  we  never 
practiced  this  [art]  in  England  for  cabinets  and  rooms  of 
state,  for  it  appears  to  me  beyond  any  invention  of  that 
kind;  but  by  their  carefully  covering  them  with  canvass 
and  fine  mattresses,  where  there  is  much  passage,  I 
suppose  they  are  not  lasting  there  in  glory,  and  haply 
they  are  often  repaired. 

There  are  numerous  other  palaces  of  particular  curi- 
osities, for  the  marchands  being  very  rich,  have,  like  our 
neighbors,  the  Hollanders,  little  or  no  extent  of  ground 
to  employ  their  estates  in ;  as  those  in  pictures  and  hang- 
ings, so  these  lay  it  out  on  marble  houses  and  rich  fur- 
niture. One  of  the  greatest  here  for  circuit  is  that  of  the 
Prince  Doria,  which  reaches  from  the  sea  to  the  summit 
of  the  mountains.  The  house  is  most  magnificently  built 
without,  nor  less  gloriously  furnished  within,  having  whole 
tables  and  bedsteads  of  massy  silver,  many  of  them  set 
with  agates,  on^-xes,  cornelians,  lazulis,  pearls,  torquoises, 
and  other  precious  stones.     The  pictures  and  statues  are 


1044  JOHN   EVELYN  85 

innumerable.  To  this  palace  belong  three  gardens,  the 
first  whereof  is  beautified  with  a  terrace,  supported  by- 
pillars  of  marble;  there  is  a  fountain  of  eagles,  and  one 
of  Neptune,  with  other  sea-gods,  all  of  the  purest  white 
marble;  they  stand  in  a  most  ample  basin  of  the  same 
stone.  At  the  side  of  this  garden  is  such  an  aviary  as 
Sir  Francis  Bacon  describes  in  his  *-^  Sermones  Fidelium,^^  or 
*  Essays,  *  wherein  grow  trees  of  more  than  two  feet  diame- 
ter, besides  cypress,  myrtles,  lentiscuses,  and  other  rare 
shrubs,  which  serve  to  nestle  and  perch  all  sorts  of  birds, 
who  have  air  and  place  enough  under  their  airy  canopy, 
supported  with  huge  iron  work,  stupendous  for  its  fabric 
and  the  charge.  The  other  two  gardens  are  full  of  orange 
trees,  citrons,  and  pomegranates,  fountains,  grots,  and 
statues.  One  of  the  latter  is  a  colossal  Jupiter,  under 
which  is  the  sepulchre  of  a  beloved  dog,  for  the  care  of 
which  one  of  this  family  received  of  the  King  of  Spain 
500  crowns  a  year,  during  the  life  of  that  faithful  animal. 
The  reservoir  of  water  here  is  a  most  admirable  piece  of 
art;  and  so  is  the  grotto  over  against  it. 

We  went  hence  to  the  Palace  of  the  Dukes,  where  is 
also  the  Court  of  Justice ;  thence  to  the  Merchant's  Walk, 
rarely  covered.  Near  the  Ducal  Palace  we  saw  the  pub- 
lic armory,  which  was  almost  all  new,  most  neatly  kept 
and  ordered,  sufficient  for  30,000  men.  We  were  showed 
many  rare  inventions  and  engines  of  war  peculiar  to  that 
armory,  as  in  the  state  when  guns  were  first  put  in  use. 
The  garrison  of  the  town  chiefly  consists  of  Germans  and 
Corsicans.  The  famous  Strada  Nova,  built  wholly  of 
polished  marble,  was  designed  by  Rubens,  and  for  state- 
liness  of  the  buildings,  paving,  and  evenness  of  the  street, 
is  far  superior  to  any  in  Europe,  for  the  number  of 
houses;  that  of  Don  Carlo  Doria  is  a  most  magnificent 
structure.  In  the  gardens  of  the  old  Marquis  Spinola, 
I  saw  huge  citrons  hanging  on  the  trees,  applied  like 
our  apricots  to  the  walls.  The  churches  are  no  less  splen- 
did than  the  palaces;  that  of  St.  Francis  is  wholly  built  of 
Parian  marble;  St.  Laurence,  in  the  middle  of  the  city, 
of  white  and  black  polished  stone,  the  inside  wholly  in- 
crusted  with  marble  and  other  precious  materials ;  on  the 
altar  of  St.  John  stand  four  sumptuous  columns  of  por- 
phyry; and  here  we  were  showed  an  emerald,  supposed 
to  be  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.     The  church  of  St. 


86  DIARY  OF  genoa 

Ambrosio,  belonging  to  the  Jesuits,  will,  when  finished, 
exceed  all  the  rest;  and  that  of  the  Annunciada,  founded 
at  the  charges  of  one  family,  in  the  present  and  future 
design  can  never  be  outdone  for  cost  and  art.  From 
the  churches  we  walked  to  the  Mole,  a  work  of  solid  huge 
stone,  stretching  itself  near  600  paces  into  the  main  sea, 
and  secures  the  harbor,  heretofore  of  no  safety.  Of  all 
the  wonders  of  Italy,  for  the  art  and  nature  of  the  de- 
sign, nothing  parallels  this.  We  passed  over  to  the  Pha- 
ros, or  Lantern,  a  tower  of  very  great  height.  Here  we 
took  horses,  and  made  the  circuit  of  the  city  as  far  as 
the  new  walls,  built  of  a  prodigious  height,  and  with 
Herculean  industry;  witness  those  vast  pieces  of  whole 
mountains  which  they  have  hewn  away,  and  blown  up 
with  gunpowder,  to  render  them  steep  and  inaccessible. 
They  are  not  much  less  than  twenty  English  miles  in  ex- 
tent, reaching  beyond  the  utmost  buildings  of  the  city. 
From  one  of  these  promontories  we  could  easily  discern 
the  island  of  Corsica;  and  from  the  same,  eastward,  we 
saw  a  vale  having  a  great  torrent  running  through  a  most 
desolate  barren  country ;  and  then  turning  our  eyes  more 
northward,  saw  those  delicious  villas  of  St.  Pietro  d'Ar- 
ena,  which  present  another  Genoa  to  you,  the  ravishing 
retirements  of  the  Genoese  nobility.  Hence,  with  much 
pain,  we  descended  toward  the  Arsenal,  where  the  gal- 
leys lie  in  excellent  order. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  city  are  much  affected  to  the 
Spanish  mode  and  stately  garb.  From  the  narrowness 
of  the  streets,  they  use  sedans  and  litters,  and  not  coaches. 

19th  October,  1644.  We  embarked  in  a  felucca  for 
Livomo,  or  Leghorn ;  but  the  sea  running  very  high,  we 
put  in  at  Porto  Venere,  which  we  made  with  peril,  be- 
tween two  narrow  horrid  rocks,  against  which  the  sea 
dashed  with  great  velocity;  but  we  were  soon  delivered 
into  as  great  a  calm  and  a  most  ample  harbor,  being  in 
the  Golfo  di  Spetia.  From  hence,  we  could  see  Pliny's 
Delphini  Promontorium,  now  called  Capo  fino.  Here  stood 
that  famous  city  of  Luna,  whence  the  port  was  named 
Lunaris,  being  about  two  leagues  over,  more  resembling 
a  lake  than  a  haven,  but  defended  by  castles  and  exces- 
sive high  mountains.  We  landed  at  Lerici,  where,  being 
Sunday,  was  a  great  procession,  carrying  the  Sacrament 
about  the   streets   in   solemn   devotion.     After  dinner  we 


1 64+  JOHN   EVELYN  87 

took  post-horses,  passing  through  whole  groves  of  olive 
trees,  the  way  somewhat  rugged  and  hilly  at  first,  but  aft- 
erward pleasant.  Thus  we  passed  through  the  towns  of 
Sarzana  and  Massa,  and  the  vast  marble  quarries  of  Car- 
rara, and  lodged  in  an  obscure  inn,  at  a  place  called 
Viregio.  The  next  morning  we  arrived  at  Pisa,  where  I 
met  my  old  friend,  Mr.  Thomas  Henshaw,  who  was  then 
newly  come  out  of  Spain,  and  from  whose  company  I  never 
parted  till  more  than  a  year  after. 

The  city  of  Pisa  is  as  much  worth  seeing  as  any  in 
Italy;  it  has  contended  with  Rome,  Florence,  Sardinia, 
Sicily,  and  even  Carthage.  The  palace  and  church  of  St. 
Stefano  (where  the  order  of  knighthood  called  by  that 
name  was  instituted)  drew  first  our  curiosity,  the  outside 
thereof  being  altogether  of  polished  marble ;  within,  it  is 
full  of  tables  relating  to  this  Order;  over  which  hang 
divers  banners  and  pendants,  with  other  trophies  taken 
by  them  from  the  Turks,  against  whom  they  are  particu- 
larly obliged  to  fight;  though  a  religious  order,  they  are 
permitted  to  marr>'.  At  the  front  of  the  palace  stands  a 
fountain,  and  the  statue  of  the  great  Duke  Cosmo.  The 
Campanile,  or  Settezonio,  built  by  John  Venipont,  a  Ger- 
man, consists  of  several  orders  of  pillars,  thirty  in  a  row, 
designed  to  be  much  higher.  It  stands  alone  on  the  right 
side  of  the  cathedral,  strangely  remarkable  for  this,  that 
the  beholder  would  expect  it  to  fall,  being  built  exceed- 
ingly declining,  by  a  rare  address  of  the  architect;  and 
how  it  is  supported  from  falling  I  think  would  puzzle  a 
good  geometrician.  The  Duomo,  or  Cathedral,  standing 
near  it,  is  a  superb  structure,  beautified  with  six  columns 
of  great  antiquity;  the  gates  are  of  brass,  of  admirable 
workmanship.  The  cemetery  called  Campo  Santo  is  made 
of  divers  galley  ladings  of  earth  formerly  brought  from 
Jerusalem,  said  to  be  of  such  a  nature,  as  to  consume 
dead  bodies  in  forty  hours.  'Tis  cloistered  with  marble 
arches;  and  here  lies  buried  the  learned  Philip  Decius, 
who  taught  in  this  University.  At  one  side  of  this  church 
stands  an  ample  and  well-wrought  marble  vessel,  which 
heretofore  contained  the  tribute  paid  yearly  by  the  city 
to  Caesar.  It  is  placed,  as  I  remember,  on  a  pillar  of 
opal  stone,  with  divers  other  antique  urns.  Near  this, 
and  in  the  same  field,  is  the  Baptistery  of  San  Giovanni, 
built  of  pure  white  marble,  and  covered  with  so  artificial 


88  DIARY  OF  livorno 

a  cupola,  that  the  voice  uttered  under  it  seems  to  break 
out  of  a  cloud.  The  font  and  pulpit,  supported  by  four 
lions,  is  of  inestimable  value  for  the  preciousness  of  the 
materials.  The  place  where  these  buildings  stand  they 
call  the  Area.  Hence,  we  went  to  the  College,  to  which 
joins  a  gallery  so  furnished  with  natural  rarities,  stones, 
minerals,  shells,  dried  animals,  skeletons,  etc.,  as  is  hardly 
to  be  seen  in  Italy.  To  this  the  Physic  Garden  lies, 
where  is  a  noble  palm  tree,  and  very  fine  waterworks. 
The  river  Arno  runs  through  the  middle  of  this  stately 
city,  whence  the  main  street  is  named  Lung  'Arno.  It  is 
so  ample  that  the  Duke's  galleys,  built  in  the  arsenal 
here,  are  easily  conveyed  to  Livorno;  over  the  river  is 
an  arch,  the  like  of  which,  for  its  flatness,  and  serving 
for  a  bridge,  is  nowhere  in  Europe.  The  Duke  has  a 
stately  Palace,  before  which  is  placed  the  statue  of  Ferdi- 
nand the  Third;  over  against  it  is  the  Exchange,  built 
of  marble.  Since  this  city  came  to  be  under  the  Dukes 
of  Tuscany,  it  has  been  much  depopulated,  though  there 
is  hardly  in  Italy  any  which  exceeds  it  for  stately  edifices. 
The  situation  of  it  is  low  and  flat;  but  the  inhabitants 
have  spacious  gardens,   and  even  fields  within  the  walls. 

2 1  St  October,  1644.  We  took  coach  to  Livorno,  through 
the  Great  Duke's  new  park  full  of  huge  cork  trees,  the 
underwood  all  myrtles,  among  which  were  many  buffaloes 
feeding,  a  kind  of  wild  ox,  short  nose  with  horns  re- 
versed; those  who  work  with  them  command  them,  as 
our  bearwards  do  the  bears,  with  a  ring  through  the 
nose,  and  a  cord.  Much  of  this  park,  as  well  as  a  great 
part  of  the  country  about  it,  is  very  fenny,  and  the  air 
very  bad. 

Leghorn  is  the  prime  port  belonging  to  all  the  Duke's 
territories;  heretofore  a  very  obscure  town,  but  since 
Duke  Ferdinand  has  strongly  fortified  it  (after  the  mod- 
em way),  drained  the  marshes  by  cutting  a  channel 
thence  to  Pisa  navigable  sixteen  miles,  and  has  raised  a 
Mole,  emulating  that  at  Genoa,  to  secure  the  shipping, 
it  is  become  a  place  of  great  receipt;  it  has  also  a  place 
for  the  galleys,  where  they  lie  safe.  Before  the  sea  is 
an  ample  piazza  for  the  market,  where  are  the  statues 
in  copper  of  the  four  slaves,  much  exceeding  the  life  for 
proportion,  and,  in  the  judgment  of  most  artists,  one  of 
the  best  pieces  of  modern  work.     Here,  especially  in  this 


IG44  JOHN   EVELYN  89 

piazza,  is  such  a  concourse  of  slaves,  Turks,  Moors,  and 
other  nations,  that  the  number  and  confusion  is  prodi- 
gious ;  some  buying,  others  selling,  others  drinking,  others 
playing,  some  working,  others  sleeping,  fighting,  singing, 
weeping,  all  nearly  naked,  and  miserably  chained.  Here 
was  a  tent,  where  any  idle  fellow  might  stake  his  lib- 
erty against  a  few  crowns,  at  dice,  or  other  hazard;  and, 
if  he  lost,  he  was  immediately  chained  and  led  away  to 
the  galleys,  where  he  was  to  serve  a  term  of  years,  but 
from  whence  they  seldom  returned;  many  sottish  per- 
sons, in  a  drunken  bravado,  would  try  their  fortune  in 
this  way. 

The  houses  of  this  neat  town  are  very  uniform,  and 
excellently  painted  d  fresco  on  the  outer  walls,  with 
representations  of  many  of  their  victories  over  the  Turks. 
The  houses,  though  low  on  account  of  the  earthquakes 
which  frequently  happen  here,  (as  did  one  during  my 
being  in  Italy),  are  very  well  built;  the  piazza  is  very 
fair  and  commodious,  and,  with  the  church,  whose  four 
columns  at  the  portico  are  of  black  marble  polished, 
gave  the  first  hint  to  the  building  both  of  the  church 
and  piazza  in  Covent  Garden  with  us,  though  very  im- 
perfectly pursued. 

z2d  October,  1644,  From  Livomo,  I  took  coach  to 
Empoly,  where  we  lay,  and  the  next  day  arrived  at 
Florence,  being  recommended  to  the  house  of  Sigtior 
Bariti^re.  in  the  Piazza  del  Spirito  Santo,  where  we  were 
exceedingly  well  treated.  Florence  is  at  the  foot  of  the 
Apennines,  the  west  part  full  of  stately  groves  and 
pleasant  meadows,  beautified  with  more  than  a  thousand 
houses  and  country  palaces  of  note,  belonging  to  gentle- 
men of  the  town.  The  river  Arno  runs  through  the 
city,  in  a  broad,  but  very  shallow  channel,  dividing  it,  as 
it  were,  in  the  middle,  and  over  it  are  four  most  sump- 
tuous bridges  of  stone.  On  that  nearest  to  our  quarter 
are  the  four  Seasons,  in  white  marble;  on  another  are 
the  goldsmiths'  shops;  at  the  head  of  the  former  stands 
a  column  of  ophite,  upon  which  a  statue  of  Justice,  with 
her  balance  and  sword,  cut  out  of  porphyry,  and  the 
more  remarkable  for  being  the  first  which  had  been 
carved  out  of  thcA  hard  material,  and  brought  to  per- 
fection, after  the  art  had  been  utterly  lost;  they  say  this 
W-vs  done  by  hardening  the  tools  in  the   juice   of  certain 


90  DIARY   OF  Florence 

herbs.  This  statue  was  erected  in  that  corner,  because 
there  Cosmo  was  first  saluted  with  the  news  of  Sienna 
being  taken. 

Near  this  is  the  famous  Palazzo  di  Strozzi,  a  princely 
piece  of  architecture,  in  a  rustic  manner.  The  Palace  of 
Pitti  was  built  by  that  family,  but  of  late  greatly  beau- 
tified by  Cosmo  with  huge  square  stones  of  the  Doric, 
Ionic,  and  the  Corinthian  orders,  with  a  terrace  at  each 
side  having  rustic  uncut  balustrades,  with  a  fountain  that 
ends  in  a  cascade  seen  from  the  great  gate,  and  so  form- 
ing a  vista  to  the  gardens.  Nothing  is  more  admirable 
than  the  vacant  staircase,  marbles,  statues,  urns,  pictures, 
court,  grotto,  and  waterworks.  In  the  quadrangle  is  a 
huge  jetto  of  water  in  a  volto  of  four  faces,  with  noble 
statues  at  each  square,  especially  the  Diana  of  porphyry 
above  the  grotto.  We  were  here  shown  a  prodigious 
great  loadstone. 

The  garden  has  every  variety,  hills,  dales,  rocks,  groves, 
aviaries,  vi varies,  fountains,  especially  one  of  five  jettos, 
the  middle  basin  being  one  of  the  longest  stones  I  ever 
saw.  Here  is  everything  to  make  such  a  Paradise  de- 
lightful. In  the  garden  I  saw  a  rose  grafted  on  an  orange 
tree.  There  was  much  topiary-work,  and  columns  in 
architecture  about  the  hedges.  The  Duke  has  added  an 
ample  laboratory,  over  against  which  stands  a  fort  on  a 
hill,  where  they  told  us  his  treasure  is  kept.  In  this 
Palace  the  Duke  ordinarily  resides,  living  with  his  Swiss 
guards,  after  the  frugal  Italian  way,  and  even  selling 
what  he  can  spare  of  his  wines,  at  the  cellar  under  his 
very  house,  wicker  bottles  dangling  over  even  the  chief 
entrance  into  the  palace,  serving  for   a  vintner's  bush. 

In  the  Church  of  Santo  Spirito  the  altar  and  reliquary 
are  most  rich,  and  full  of  precious  stones;  there  are  four 
pillars  of  a  kind  of  serpentine,  and  some  of  blue.  Hence 
we  went  to  another  Palace  of  the  Duke's,  called  Palazzo 
Vecchio,  before  which  is  a  statue  of  David,  by  Michael 
Angelo,  and  one  of  Hercules,  killing  Cacus,  the  work  of 
Baccio  Bandinelli.  The  quadrangle  about  this  is  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  and  in  the  hall  are  many  rare  marbles, 
as  those  of  Leo  X.  and  Clement  VII.,  both  Popes  of  the 
Medicean  family;  also  the  acts  of  Cosmo,  in  rare  paint- 
ing. In  the  chapel  is  kept  (as  they  would  make  one 
believe)  the  original  Gospel  of  St.  John,  written  with  his 


1 644  JOHN  EVELYN  91 

own  hand;  and  the  famous  Florentine  Pandects,  and 
divers  precious  stones.  Near  it  is  another  pendent  Tower 
like  that  of  Pisa,  always  threatening  ruin. 

Under  the  Court  of  Justice  is  a  stately  arcade  for  men  to 
walk  in,  and  over  that,  the  shops  of  divers  rare  artists  who 
continually  work  for  the  great  Duke.  Above  this  is  that 
renowned  Ceimeliarcha,  or  repository,  wherein  are  hun- 
dreds of  admirable  antiquities,  statues  of  marble  and 
metal,  vases  of  porphyry,  etc. ;  but  among  the  statues  none 
so  famous  as  the  Scipio,  the  Boar,  the  Idol  of  Apollo, 
brought  from  the  Delphic  Temple,  and  two  triumphant 
columns.  Over  these  hang  the  pictures  of  the  most 
famous  persons  and  illustrious  men  in  arts  or  arms,  to 
the  number  of  300,  taken  out  of  the  museum  of  Paulus 
Jovius.  They  then  led  us  into  a  large  square  room,  in  the 
middle  of  which  stood  a  cabinet  of  an  octangular  form, 
so  adorned  and  furnished  with  crystals,  agates,  and  sculp- 
tures, as  exceeds  any  description.  This  cabinet  is  called 
the  Tribuna  and  in  it  is  a  pearl  as  big  as  an  hazelnut. 
The  cabinet  is  of  ebony,  lazuli,  and  jasper;  over  the  door 
is  a  round  of  M.  Angelo;  on  the  cabinet,  Leo  X,  with 
other  paintings  of  Raphael,  del  Sarto,  Perugino,  and 
Correggio,  viz,  a  St.  John,  a  Virgin,  a  Boy,  two  Apostles, 
two  heads  of  Durer,  rarely  carved.  Over  this  cabinet  is 
a  globe  of  ivory,  excellently  carved;  the  Labors  of  Her- 
cules, in  massy  silver,  and  many  incomparable  pictures  in 
small.  There  is  another,  which  had  about  it  eight  Ori- 
ental columns  of  alabaster,  on  each  whereof  was  placed  a 
head  of  a  Caesar,  covered  with  a  canopy  so  richly  set  with 
precious  stones,  that  they  resembled  a  firmament  of  stars. 
Within  it  was  our  Savior's  Passion,  and  the  twelve 
Apostles  in  amber.  This  cabinet  was  valued  at  two 
hundred  thousand  crowns.  In  another,  with  calcedon 
pillars,  was  a  series  of  golden  medals.  Here  is  also 
another  rich  ebony  cabinet  cupolaed  with  a  tortoise  shell, 
and  containing  a  collection  of  gold  medals  esteemed  worth 
50,000  crowns;  a  wreathed  pillar  of  Oriental  alabaster, 
divers  paintings  of  Da  Vinci,  Pontomo,  del  Sarto,  an 
Ecce  Homo  of  Titian,  a  Boy  of  Bronzini,  etc.  They 
showed  us  a  branch  of  coral  fixed  on  the  rock,  which  they 
affirm  does  still  grow.  In  another  room,  is  kept  the 
Tabernacle  appointed  for  the  chapel  of  St.  Laurence, 
about  which  are  placed  small  statues  of  Saints,  of  precious 


92  DIARY    OF  FLORENCE 

material;  a  piece  of  such  art  and  cost,  that  having  been 
these  forty  years  in  perfecting,  it  is  one  of  the  most 
curious  things  in  the  world.  Here  were  divers  tables  of 
Pietra  Commesso,  which  is  a  marble  ground  inlaid  with 
several  sorts  of  marbles  and  stones  of  various  colors  rep- 
resenting flowers,  trees,  beasts,  birds,  and  landscapes.  In 
one  is  represented  the  town  of  Leghorn,  by  the  same  hand 
who  inlaid  the  altar  of  St.  Laurence,  Domenico  Benotti,  of 
whom  I  purchased  nineteen  pieces  of  the  same  work  for 
a  cabinet.  In  a  press  near  this  they  showed  an  iron  nail, 
one  half  whereof  being  converted  into  gold  by  one  Thurn- 
heuser,  a  German  chemist,  is  looked  on  as  a  great  rarity ; 
but  it  plainly  appeared  to  have  been  soldered  together. 
There  is  a  curious  watch,  a  monstrous  turquoise  as  big  as 
an  egg,  on  which  is  carved  an  emperor's  head. 

In  the  armory  are  kept  many  antique  habits,  as  those 
of  Chinese  kings;  the  sword  of  Charlemagne;  Hannibal's 
headpiece ;  a  loadstone  of  a  yard  long,  which  bears  up 
86  lbs.  weight,  in  a  chain  of  seventeen  links,  such  as  the 
slaves  are  tied  to.  In  another  room  are  such  rare  turn- 
eries in  ivory,  as  are  not  to  be  described  for  their  curi- 
osity. There  is  a  fair  pillar  of  oriental  alabaster ;  twelve 
vast  and  complete  services  of  silver  plate,  and  one  of 
gold,  all  of  excellent  workmanship;  a  rich  embroidered 
saddle  of  pearls  sent  by  the  Emperor  to  this  Duke;  and 
here  is  that  embroidered  chair  set  with  precious  stones 
in  which  he  sits,  when,  on  St.  John's  day,  he  receives 
the  tribute  of  the  cities. 

25th  October,  1644.  We  went  to  the  Portico  where 
the  famous  statue  of  Judith  and  Holofernes  stands,  also 
the  Medusa,  all  of  copper;  but  what  is  most  admirable 
is  the  Rape  of  a  Sabine,  with  another  man  under  foot, 
the  confusion  and  turning  of  whose  limbs  is  most  admir- 
able. It  is  of  one  entire  marble,  the  work  of  John  di 
Bologna,  and  is  most  stupendous;  this  stands  directly 
against  the  great  piazza,  where,  to  adorn  one  fountain, 
are  erected  four  marble  statues  and  eight  of  brass,  repre- 
senting Neptune  and  his  family  of  sea  gods,  of  a  Colos- 
sean  magnitude,  with  four  sea  horses,  in  Parian  marble 
of  Lamedrati,  in  the  midst  of  a  very  great  basin :  a  work, 
I  think,  hardly  to  be  paralleled  Here  is  also  the  famous 
statue  of  David,  by  M.  Angelo;  Hercules  and  Cacus,  by 
Baccio  Bandinelli ;  the  Perseus,  in  copper,  by  Benevento, 


1 644  JOHN  EVELYN  93 

and  the  Judith  of  Donajtelli,  which  stand  publicly  before 
the  old  Palace  with  the  Centaur  of  Bologna,  huge  Colos- 
sean  figures.  Near  this  stand  Cosmo  di  Medicis  on  horse- 
back, in  brass  on  a  pedestal  of  marble,  and  four  copper 
bassorelievos  by  John  di  Bologna,  with  divers  inscrip- 
tions; the  Ferdinand  the  First,  on  horseback,  is  of  Pietro 
Tacca.  The  brazen  boar,  which  serves  for  another  public 
fountain,  is  admirable. 

After  dinner,  we  went  to  the  Church  of  the  Annun- 
ciata,  where  the  Duke  and  his  Court  were  at  their  devo- 
tions, being  a  place  of  extraordinary  repute  for  sanctity : 
for  here  is  a  shrine  that  does  great  miracles,  [proved]  by 
innumerable  votive  tablets,  etc. ,  covering  almost  the  walls 
of  the  whole  church.  This  is  the  image  of  Gabriel,  who 
saluted  the  Blessed  Virgin,  and  which  the  artist  finished  so 
well,  that  he  was  in  despair  of  performing  the  Virgin's 
face  so  well;  whereupon  it  was  miraculously  done  for  him 
while  he  slept;  but  others  say  it  was  painted  by  St.  Luke 
himself.  Whoever  it  was,  infinite  is  the  devotion  of  both 
sexes  to  it.  The  altar  is  set  off  with  four  columns  of 
oriental  alabaster,  and  lighted  by  thirty  great  silver  lamps. 
There  are  innumerable  other  pictures  by  rare  masters. 
Our  Savior's  Passion  in  brass  tables  inserted  in  marble, 
is  the  work  of  John  di    Bologna   and    Baccio    Bandinelli. 

To  this  church  joins  a  convent,  whose  cloister  is  painted 
in  fresco  very  rarely.  There  is  also  near  it  an  hospital  for 
1 ,  000  persons,  with  nurse-children,  and  several  other  charit- 
able accommodations. 

At  the  Duke's  Cavalerizza,  the  Prince  has  a  stable  of  the 
finest  horses  of  all  countries,  Arabs,  Turks,  Barbs,  Gen- 
nets,  English,  etc.,  which  are  continually  exercised  in  the 
manage. 

Near  this  is  a  place  where  are  kept  several  wild  beasts, 
as  wolves,  cats,  bears,  tigers,  and  lions.  They  are  loose  in 
a  deep  walled  court,  and  therefore  to  be  seen  with  more 
pleasure  than  those  at  the  Tower  of  London,  in  their 
grates.  One  of  the  lions  leaped  to  a  surprising  height, 
to  catch  a  joint  of  mutton  which  I  caused  to  be  hung 
down. 

♦There  are  many  plain  brick  towers  erected  for  de- 
fense, when  this  was  a  free  state.     The  highest  is  called 

*  There  seems  to  be  here  an  omission  in  the  MS.  betv.xen  their  leav- 
ing Florence  and  going  to  Sienna. 


94  DIARY  OF  sienna 

the  Mangio,  standing  at  the  foot  of  the  piazza  which  we 
went  first  to  see  after  our  arrival.  At  the  entrance  of 
this  tower  is  a  chapel  open  toward  the  piazza,  of  marble 
well  adorned  with  sculpture. 

On  the  other  side  is  the  Signoria,  or  Court  of  Justice, 
well  built  a  la  moderna^  of  brick;  indeed  the  bricks  of 
Sienna  are  so  well  made,  that  they  look  almost  as  well 
as  porphyry  itself,  having  a  kind  of  natural  polish. 

In  the  Senate-house  is  a  very  fair  Hall  where  they 
sometimes  entertain  the  people  with  public  shows  and 
operas,  as  they  call  them.  Toward  the  left  are  the  stat- 
ues of  Romulus  and  Remus  with  the  wolf,  all  of  brass, 
placed  on  a  column  of  ophite  stone,  which  they  report 
was  brought  from  the  renowned  Ephesian  Temple.  These 
ensigns  being  the  arms  of  the  town,  are  set  up  in  divers 
of  the  streets  and  public  ways  both  within  and  far  with- 
out the  city. 

The  piazza  compasses  the  facciata  of  the  court  and 
chapel,  and,  being  made  with  descending  steps,  much  re- 
sembles the  figure  of  an  escalop  shell.  The  white  ranges 
of  pavement,  intermixed  with  the  excellent  bricks  above 
mentioned,  with  which  the  town  is  generally  well  paved, 
render  it  very  clean.  About  this  market  place  ( for  so  it 
is)  are  many  fair  palaces,  though  not  built  with  excess 
of  elegance.  There  stands  an  arch,  the  work  of  Baltaz- 
zar  di  Sienna,  built  with  wonderful  ingenuity,  so  that  it  is 
not  easy  to  conceive  how  it  is  supported,  yet  it  has  some 
imperceptible  contiguations,  which  do  not  betray  them- 
selves easily  to  the  eye.  On  the  edge  of  the  piazza  is  a 
goodly  fountain  beautified  with  statues,  the  water  issu- 
ing out  of  the  wolves'  mouths,  being  the  work  of  Jacobo 
Quercei,  a  famous  artist.  There  are  divers  other  public 
fountains  in  the  city,  of  good  design. 

After  this  we  walked  to  the  Sapienza,  which  is  the 
University,  or  rather  College,  where  the  high  Germans 
enjoy  many  particular  privileges  when  they  addict  them- 
selves to  the  civil  law:  and  indeed  this  place  has  produced 
many  excellent  scholars,  besides  those  three  Popes,  Alex- 
ander, Pius  II.,  and  III.,  of  that  name,  the  learned  ^neas 
Sylvius ;  and  both  were  of  the  ancient  house  of  the  Picco- 
lomini. 

The  chief  street  is  called  Strada  Romana,  in  which 
Pius  II.  has  built  a  most  stately  palace  of  square  stone. 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  95 

with  an  incomparable  portico  joining  near  to  it.  The 
town  is  commanded  by  a  castle  which  hath  four  bastions 
and  a  garrison  of  soldiers.  Near  it  is  a  list  to  ride  horses 
in,  much  frequented  by  the  gallants  in  summer. 

Not  far  from  hence  is  the  Church  and  Convent  of  the 
Dominicans,  where  in  the  chapel  of  St.  Catherine  of 
Sienna  they  show  her  head,  the  rest  of  her  body  being 
translated  to  Rome.  The  Duomo,  or  Cathedral,  both 
without  and  within,  is  of  large  square  stones  of  black  and 
white  marble  polished,  of  inexpressible  beauty,  as  is  the 
front  adorned  with  sculpture  and  rare  statues.  In  the 
middle  is  a  stately  cupola  and  two  columns  of  sundry 
streaked  colored  marble.  About  the  body  of  the  church, 
on  a  cornice  within,  are  inserted  the  heads  of  all  the  Popes. 
The  pulpit  is  beautified  with  marble  figures,  a  piece  of 
exquisite  work;  but  what  exceeds  all  description  is  the 
pavement,  where  (besides  the  various  emblems  and  other 
figures  in  the  nave )  the  choir  is  wrought  with  the  history 
of  the  Bible,  so  artificially  expressed  in  the  natural  colors 
of  the  marbles,  that  few  pictures  exceed  it.  Here  stands 
a  Christo,  rarely  cut  in  marble,  and  on  the  large  high  altar  is 
a  brazen  vessel  of  admirable  invention  and  art.  The  organs 
are  exceeding  sweet  and  well  tuned.  On  the  left  side  of 
the  altar  is  the  library,  where  are  painted  the  acts  of 
^neas  Sylvius,  and  others  by  Raphael.  They  showed  us 
an  arm  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  wherewith,  they  say,  he 
baptized  our  Savior  in  Jordan;  it  was  given  by  the  King 
^f  Peloponnesus  to  one  of  the  Popes,  as  an  inscription 
testifies.  They  have  also  St.  Peter's  sword,  with  which 
he  smote  ofiE  the  ear  of  Malchus. 

Just  against  the  cathedral,  we  went  into  the  Hospital, 
where  they  entertain  and  refresh  for  three  or  four  days, 
gratis,  such  pilgrims  as  go  to  Rome.  In  the  chapel  be- 
longing to  it  lies  the  body  of  St.  Susorius,  their  founder, 
as  yet  uncorrupted,  though  dead  many  hundreds  of  years. 
They  show  one  of  the  nails  which  pierced  our  Savior,  and 
Saint  Chrysostom's  ** Comment  on  the  Gospel,"  written  by 
his  own  hand.  Below  the  hill  stands  the  pool  called 
Fonte  Brande,  where  fish  are  fed  for  pleasure  more  than 
food. 

St.  Francis's  Church  is  a  large  pile,  near  which,  yet  a 
little  without  the  city,  grows  a  tree  which  they  report  in 
their  legend  grew  from  the  Saint's  staff,  which,  on  going 


g6  DiARY  OF  torrinieri 

to  sleep,  he  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  at  his  waking  found 
it  had  grown  a  large  tree.  They  affirm  that  the  wood  of 
it  in  decoction  cures  sundry  diseases. 

2d  November,  1644.  We  went  from  Sienna,  desirous 
of  being  present  at  the  cavalcade  of  the  new  Pope,  Inno- 
cent X.,*  who  had  not  yet  made  the  grand  procession  to 
St.  John  di  Laterano.  We  set  out  by  Porto  Romano, 
the  country  all  about  the  town  being  rare  for  hunting 
and  game.  Wild  boar  and  venison  are  frequently  sold  in 
the  shops  in  many  of  the  towns  about  it.  We  passed 
near  Monte  Oliveto,  where  the  monastery  of  that  Order 
is  pleasantly  situated,  and  worth  seeing.  Passing  over  a 
bridge,  which,  by  the  inscription,  appears  to  have  been 
built  by  Prince  Matthias,  we  went  through  Buon-Convento, 
famous  for  the  death  of  the  Emperor,  Henry  VII.,  who 
was  here  poisoned  with  the  Holy  Eucharist.  Thence,  we 
came  to  Torrinieri,  where  we  dined.  This  village  is  in  a 
sweet  valley,  in  view  of  Montalcino,  famous  for  the  rare 
Muscatello.f  After  three  miles  more,  we  go  by  St.  Quirico, 
and  lay  at  a  private  osteria  near  it,  where,  after  we  were 
provided  of  lodging,  came  in  Cardinal  Donghi,  a  Genoese 
by  birth,  now  come  from  Rome;  he  was  so  civil  as  to 
entertain  us  with  great  respect,  hearing  we  were  English, 
for  that,  he  told  us  he  had  been  once  in  our  country. 
Among  other  discourse,  he  related  how  a  dove  had  been 
seen  to  sit  on  the  chair  in  the  Conclave  at  the  election 
of  Pope  Innocent,  which  he  magnified  as  a  great  good 
omen,  with  other  particulars  which  we  inquired  of  him, 
till  our  suppers  parted  us.  He  came  in  great  state  with 
his  own  bedstead  and  all  the  furniture,  yet  would  by  no 
means  suffer  us  to  resign  the  room  we  had  taken  up  in 
the  lodging  before  his  arrival.  Next  morning,  we  rode 
by  Monte  Pientio,  or,  as  vulgarly  called,  Monte  Mantu- 
miato,  which  is  of  an  excessive  height,  ever  and  anon 
peeping  above  any  clouds  with  its  snowy  head,  till  we 
had  climbed  to  the  inn  at  Radicofani,  built  by  Ferdinand, the 
great  Duke,  for  the  necessary  refreshment  of  travelers 
in  so  inhospitable  a  place.  As  we  ascended,  we  entered 
a  very  thick,  solid,  and  dark  body  of  clouds,  looking  like 
rocks  at  a  little  distance,  which  lasted  near  a  mile  in  going 
up ;  they  were  dry  misty  vapors,  hanging  undissolved  for 

*  John  Baptista  Pamphili,  chosen  Pope  in  October,  1644,  died  in  1655. 
f  The  wine  so  called. 


i644  JOHN  EVELYN  97 

a  vast  thickness,  and  obscuring  both  the  sun  and  earth, 
so  that  we  seemed  to  be  in  the  sea  rather  than  in  the 
clouds,  till,  having  pierced  through  it,  we  came  into  a 
most  serene  heaven,  as  if  we  had  been  above  all  human 
conversation,  the  mountain  appearing  more  like  a  great 
island  than  joined  to  any  other  hills ;  for  we  could  perceive 
nothing  but  a  sea  of  thick  clouds  rolling  under  our  feet 
like  huge  waves,  every  now  and  then  suffering  the  top 
of  some  other  mountain  to  peep  through,  which  we  could 
discover  many  miles  off:  and  between  some  breaches  of 
the  clouds  we  could  see  landscapes  and  villages  of  the 
subjacent  country.  This  was  one  of  the  most  pleasant, 
new,  and  altogether  surprising  objects  that  I  had  ever 
beheld. 

On  the  summit  of  this  horrid  rock  (for  so  it  is)  is  built 
a  very  strong  fort,  garrisoned,  and  somewhat  beneath  it 
is  a  small  town;  the  provisions  are  drawn  up  with  ropes 
and  engines,  the  precipice  being  otherwise  inaccessible. 
At  one  end  of  the  town  lie  heaps  of  rocks  so  strangely 
broken  off  from  the  ragged  mountain,  as  would  affright 
one  with  their  horror  and  menacing  postures.  Just  op- 
posite to  the  inn  gushed  out  a  plentiful  and  most  useful 
fountain  which  falls  into  a  great  trough  of  stone,  bear- 
ing the  Duke  of  Tuscany's  arms.  Here  we  dined,  and  I 
with  my  black  lead  pen  took  the  prospect.  It  is  one  of 
the  utmost  confines  of  the  Etrurian  State  toward  St. 
Peter's  Patrimony,  since  the  gift  of  Matilda  to  Gregory 
VII.,  as  is  pretended. 

Here  we  pass  a  stone  bridge,  built  by  Pope  Gregory 
XIV.,  and  thence  immediately  to  Acquapendente,  a  town 
situated  on  a  very  ragged  rock,  down  which  precipitates 
an  entire  river  (which  gives  it  the  denomination),  with  a 
most  horrid  roaring  noise.  We  lay  at  the  posthouse,  on 
which  is  this  inscription: 

'•^  U  Insegna  dell  a  Post  a,  d  post  a  a  post  a. 
In  questa  posta,  fin  che  habbia  d  sua  posta 
Ogn'  un  Cavallo  a  Vetturiin  Posta?^ 

Before  it  was  dark,  we  went  to  see  the  Monastery  of 
the  Franciscans,  famous  for  six  learned  Popes,  and  sun- 
dry other  great  scholars,  especially  the  renowned  physi- 
cian and  anatomist,  Fabricius  de  Acquapendente,  who 
was  bred  and  born  there. 
7 


98  DIARY  OF  viterbo 

4th  November,  1 644.  After  a  little  riding,  we  descended 
toward  the  Lake  of  Bolsena,  which  being  above  twenty 
miles  in  circuit,  yields  from  hence  a  most  incomparable 
prospect.  Near  the  middle  of  it  are  two  small  islands, 
in  one  of  which  is  a  convent  of  melancholy  Capuchins, 
where  those  of  the  Farnesian  family  are  interred.  Pliny 
calls  it  Tarquiniensis  Lacus^  and  talks  of  divers  floating 
islands  about  it,  but  they  did  not  appear  to  us.  The 
lake  is  environed  with  mountains,  at  one  of  whose  sides 
we  passed  toward  the  town  Bolsena,  anciently  Volsinium, 
famous  in  those  times,  as  is  testified  by  divers  rare  sculp- 
tures in  the  court  of  St.  Christiana's  church,  the  urn, 
altar,  and  jasper  columns. 

After  seven  miles'  riding,  passing  through  a  wood 
heretofore  sacred  to  Juno,  we  came  to  Montefiascone, 
the  head  of  the  Falisci,  a  famous  people  in  old  time, 
and  heretofore  Falernum,  as  renowned  for  its  excellent 
wine,  as  now  for  the  story  of  the  Dutch  Bishop,  who 
lies  buried  in  St.   Flavian's  church  with  this  epitaph: 

*-*•  Propter  Est,  Est,  dominus  meus  mortuus  est?'* 

Because,  having  ordered  his  servant  to  ride  before,  and 
inquire  where  the  best  wine  was,  and  there  write  Est^ 
the  man  found  some  so  good  that  he  wrote  Est,  Est, 
upon  the  vessels,  and  the  Bishop  drinking  too  much  of 
it,  died. 

From  Montefiascone,  we  travel  a  plain  and  pleasant 
champaign  to  Viterbo,  which  presents  itself  with  much 
state  afar  off,  in  regard  of  her  many  lofty  pinnacles  and 
towers;  neither  does  it  deceive  our  expectation;  for  it  is 
exceedingly  beautified  with  public  fountains,  especially 
that  at  the  entrance,  which  is  all  of  brass  and  adorned 
with  many  rare  figures,  and  salutes  the  passenger  with  a 
most  agreeable  object  and  refreshing  waters.  There  are 
many  Popes  buried  in  this  city,  and  in  the  palace  is 
this  odd  inscription: 

^^Ostridzs  victoriam  in  Gig  ant  as  Htteris  historiographtcis  in  hoc 
antiquissimo  marmore  inscriptam,  ex  Herculis  dim,  nunc  Divi 
Laurentij  Teniplo  translatam,  ad  conversanda:  veins tiss .  patria 
monument  a  atg'  decora  hie  locandum  statuit  S.P.Q.  K» 

Under  it: 

^*- Sum  Osiris  Rex  Jupiter  universo  in  t err  arum  orbe.*^ 


1 644  JOHN  EVELYN  99 

« Sunt  Osiris  Rex  qui  ab  Itala  in  Gig  antes  exercitus  veni,  vidi, 
et  vici.'"* 

*  Sum  Osiris  Rex  qu  terrarum  pacata  Italiam  decern  cCnos  quorum 
inventor  fui^^ 

Near  the  town  is  a  sulphurous  fountain,  which  con- 
tinually boils.  After  dinner  we  took  horse  by  the  new 
way  of  Capranica,  and  so  passing  near  Mount  Ciminus 
and  the  Lake,  we  began  to  enter  the  plains  of  Rome; 
at  which  sight  my  thoughts  were  strangely  elevated,  but 
soon  allayed  by  so  violent  a  shower,  which  fell  just  as 
we  were  contemplating  that  proud  Mistress  of  the  world, 
and  descending  by  the  Vatican  (for  at  that  gate  we 
entered),  that  before  we  got  into  the  city  I  was  wet  to 
the  skin. 

I  came  to  Rome  on  the  4th  of  November,  1644, 
about  five  at  night ;  and  being  perplexed  for  a  convenient 
lodging,  wandered  up  and  down  on  horseback,  till  at  last 
one  conducted  us  to  Monsieur  Petit's,  a  Frenchman,  near 
the  Piazza  Spagnola.  Here  I  alighted,  and,  having  bar- 
gained with  my  host  for  twenty  crowns  a  month,  I  caused 
a  good  fire  to  be  made  in  my  chamber  and  went  to  bed, 
being  so  very  wet.  The  next  morning  (for  I  was  resolved 
to  spend  no  time  idly  here)  I  got  acquainted  with  several 
persons  who  had  long  lived  at  Rome.  I  was  especially 
recommended  to  Father  John,  a  Benedictine  monk  and 
Superior  of  his  Order  for  the  English  College  of  Douay, 
a  person  of  singular  learning,  religion,  and  humanity; 
also  to  Mr.  Patrick  Gary,  an  Abbot,  brother  to  our 
learned  Lord  Falkland,  a  witty  young  priest,  who  after- 
ward came  over  to  our  church ;  Dr.  Bacon  and  Dr.  Gibbs, 
physicians  who  had  dependence  on  Cardinal  Caponi,  the 
latter  being  an  excellent  poet;  Father  Courtney,  the 
chief  of  the  Jesuits  in  the  English  College;  my  Lord 
of  Somerset,  brother  to  the  Marquis  of  Worcester;  and 
some  others,  from  whom  I  received  instructions  how  to 
behave  in  town,  with  directions  to  masters  and  books  to 
take  in  search  of  the  antiquities,  churches,  collections, 
etc.  Accordingly,  the  next  day,  November  6th,  I  began 
to  be  very  pragmatical.* 

•The  sense  in  which  Evelyn  uses  this  word  is  that  of  its  old 
signification,  as  being  very  active  and  full  of  business,  setting  to 
work  systematically  with  what  he  came  upon,  namely,  to  view  the 
antiquities  and  beauties  of  Rome. 


loo  DIARY  OF  ROME 

In  the  first  place,  our  sights-man  (for  so  they  name 
certain  persons  here  who  get  their  living  by  leading 
strangers  about  to  see  the  city)  went  to  the  Palace  Far- 
nese,  a  magnificent  square  structure,  built  by  Michael 
Angelo,  of  the  three  orders  of  columns  after  the  ancient 
manner,  and  when  architecture  was  but  newly  recovered 
from  the  Gothic  barbarity.  The  court  is  square  and  ter- 
raced, having  two  pairs  of  stairs  which  lead  to  the  upper 
rooms,  and  conducted  us  to  that  famous  gallery  painted 
by  Augustine  Caracci,  than  which  nothing  is  more  rare  of 
that  art ;  so  deep  and  well-studied  are  all  the  figures,  that 
it  would  require  more  judgment  than  I  confess  I  had,  to 
determine  whether  they  were  flat,  or  embossed.  Thence, 
we  passed  into  another,  painted  in  chiarosctiro,  represent- 
ing the  fabulous  history  of  Hercules.  We  went  out  on  a 
terrace,  where  was  a  pretty  garden  on  the  leads,  for  it  is 
built  in  a  place  that  has  no  extent  of  ground  backward. 
The  great  hall  is  wrought  by  Salviati  and  Zuccharo,  fur- 
nished with  statues,  one  of  which  being  modern  is  the 
figure  of  a  Farnese,  in  a  triumphant  posture,  of  white 
marble,  worthy  of  admiration.  Here  we  were  shown  the 
Miiseum  of  Fulvius  Ursinos,  replete  with  innumerable 
collections;  but  the  Major-Domo  being  absent,  we  could 
not  at  this  time  see  all  we  wished.  Descending  into  the 
court,  we  with  astonishment  contemplated  those  two  in- 
comparable statues  of  Hercules  and  Flora,  so  much  cele- 
brated by  Pliny,  and  indeed  by  all  antiquity,  as  two  of  the 
most  rare  pieces  in  the  world;  there  likewise  stands  a 
modem  statue  of  Hercules  and  two  Gladiators,  not  to  be 
despised.  In  a  second  court  was  a  temporary  shelter  of 
boards  over  the  most  stupendous  and  never-to-be-suffi- 
ently-admired  Torso  of  Amphion  and  Dirce,  represented 
in  five  figures,  exceeding  the  life  in  magnitude,  of  the 
purest  white  marble,  the  contending  work  of  those  famous 
statuaries,  Apollonius  and  Taurisco,  in  the  time  of  Augus- 
tus, hewed  out  of  one  entire  stone,  and  remaining  un- 
blemished, to  be  valued  beyond  all  the  marbles  of  the 
world  for  its  antiquity  and  workmanship.  There  are 
divers  other  heads  and  busts.  At  the  entrance  of  this 
stately  palace  stand  two  rare  and  vast  fountains  of  garnito 
stone,  brought  into  this  piazza  out  of  Titus's  Baths. 
Here,  in  summer,  the  gentlemen  of  Rome  take  the  fresco 
in  their  coaches  and  on  foot.     At  the  sides  of  this  court 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  loi 

we  visited  the  palace  of  Signer  Pichini,  who  has  a  good 
collection  of  antiquities,  especially  the  Adonis  of  Parian 
marble,  which  my  Lord  Arundel  would  once  have  pur- 
chased, if  a  great  price  would  have  been  taken  for  it. 

We  went  into  the  Campo  Vaccixo,  by  the  ruins  of  the 
Temple  of  Peace,  built  by  Titus  Vespasianus,  and  thought 
to  be  the  largest  as  well  as  the  most  richly  furnished  of 
all  the  Roman  dedicated  places:  it  is  now  a  heap  rather 
than  a  temple,  yet  the  roof  and  volto  continue  firm,  show- 
ing it  to  have  been  formerly  of  incomparable  workman- 
ship. This  goodly  structure  was,  none  knows  how^ 
consumed  by  fire  the  very  night,  by  all  computation,  that 
our  blessed  Savior  was  bom. 

From  hence  we  passed  by  the  place  into  which  Curtius 
precipitated  himself  for  the  love  of  his  country,  now 
without  any  sign  of  a  lake,  or  vorago.  Near  this  stand 
some  columns  of  white  marble,  of  exquisite  work,  sup- 
posed to  be  part  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Tonans,  built 
by  Augustus;  the  work  of  the  capitals  (being-  Corinthian) 
and  architrave  is  excellent,  full  of  sacrificing  utensils. 
There  are  three  other  of  Jupiter  Stator.  Opposite  to 
these  are  the  oratories,  or  churches,  of  St,  Cosmo  and 
Damiano,  heretofore  the  Temples  of  Romulus;  a  pretty 
old  fabric,  with  a  tribunal,  or  tholus  within,  wrought  all 
of  Mosaic.  The  gates  before  it  are  brass,  and  the  whole 
much  obliged  to  Pope  Urban  VIII.  In  this  sacred  place 
lie  the  bodies  of  those  two  martyrs;  and  in  a  chapel  on 
the  right  hand   is    a  rare  painting  of  Cavaliere  Baglioni. 

We  next  entered  St.  Lorenzo  in  Miranda.  The  portico 
is  supported  by  a  range  of  most  stately  columns ;  the  in- 
scription cut  in  the  architrave  shows  it  to  have  been  the 
Temple  of  Faustina.  It  is  now  made  a  fair  church,  and 
has  an  hospital  which  joins  it.  On  the  same  side  is  St. 
Adriano,  heretofore  dedicated  to  Saturn.  Before  this 
was  once  placed  a  military  column,  supposed  to  be  set 
in  the  center  of  the  city,  from  whence  they  used  to  com- 
pute the  distance  of  all  the  cities  and  places  of  note 
under  the  dominion  of  those  universal  monarchs.  To 
this  church  are  likewise  brazen  gates  and  a  noble  front; 
just  opposite  we  saw  the  heaps  and  ruins  of  Cicero's  pal- 
ace. Hence  we  went  toward  Mons  Capitolinus,  at  the 
foot  of  which  stands  the  arch  of  Septimus  Severus,  full 
and    entire,    save   where  the   pedestal   and    some   of  the 


LIB.'^ARY 


102  DIARY  OF  ROME 

lower  members  are  choked  up  with  ruins  and  earth. 
This  arch  is  exceedingly  enriched  with  sculpture  and  tro- 
phies, with  a  large  inscription.  In  the  terrestrial  and 
naval  battles  here  graven,  is  seen  the  Roman  Aries  (the 
battering-ram);  and  this  was  the  first  triumphal  arch  set 
up  in  Rome.  The  Capitol,  to  which  we  climbed  by  very 
broad  steps,  is  built  about  a  square  court,  at  the  right 
hand  of  whicn,  going  up  from  Campo  Vaccino,  gushes  a 
plentiful  stream  from  the  statue  of  Tiber,  in  porphyry, 
very  antique,  and  another  representing  Rome ;  but,  above 
all,  is  the  admirable  figure  of  Marforius,  casting  water 
into  a  most  ample  concha.  The  front  of  this  court  is 
crowned  with  an  excellent  fabric  containing  the  Courts 
of  Justice,  and  where  the  Criminal  Notary  sits,  and 
others.  In  one  of  the  halls  they  show  the  statues  of 
Gregory  XIII.  and  Paul  III.,  with  several  others.  To 
this  joins  a  handsome  tower,  the  whole  faciata  adorned 
with  noble  statues,  both  on  the  outside  and  on  the 
battlements,  ascended  by  a  double  pair  of  stairs,  and  a 
stately  Posario. 

In  the  center  of  the  court  stands  that  incomparable 
horse  bearing  the  Emperor  Marcus  Aurelius,  as  big  as 
the  life,  of  Corinthian  metal,  placed  on  a  pedestal  of 
marble,  esteemed  one  of  the  noblest  pieces  of  work  now 
extant,  antique  and  very  rare.  There  is  also  a  vast  head 
of  a  colossean  magnitude,  of  white  marble,  fixed  in  the 
wall.  At  the  descending  stairs  are  set  two  horses  of 
white  marble  governed  by  two  naked  slaves,  taken  to  be 
Castor  and  Pollux,  brought  from  Pompey's  Theatre.  On 
the  balustrade,  the  trophies  of  Marius  against  the  Cim- 
brians,  very  ancient  and  instructive.  At  the  foot  of  the 
steps  toward  the  left  hand  is  that  Colonna  Miliaria,  with 
the  globe  of  brass  on  it,  mentioned  to  have  been  formerly 
set  in  Campo  Vaccino.  On  the  same  hand,  is  the  palace 
of  the  Signiori  Conservatori,  or  three  Consuls,  now  the 
civil  governors  of  the  city,  containing  the  fraternities,  or 
halls  and  guilds  (as  we  call  them),  of  sundry  companies, 
and  other  offices  of  state.  Under  the  portico  within,  are 
the  statues  of  Augustus  Caesar,  a  Bacchus,  and  the  so 
renowned  Colonna  Rostrata  of  Duillius,  with  the  excellent 
bassi-relievi.  In  a  smaller  court,  the  statue  of  Constan- 
tine,  on  a  fountain,  a  Minerva's  head  of  brass,  and  that 
of  Commodus,  to  which  belongs  a  hand,  the  thumb  whereof 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  103 

is  at  least  an  ell  long,  and  yet  proportionable;  but  the 
rest  of  the  colosse  is  lost.  In  the  comer  of  this  court 
stand  a  horse  and  lion  fighting,  as  big  as  life,  in  white 
marble,  exceedingly  valued;  likewise  the  Rape  of  the 
Sabines ;  two  cumbent  figures  of  Alexander  and  Mammea ; 
two  monstrous  feet  of  a  colosse  of  Apollo;  the  Sepulchre 
of  Agrippina;  and  the  standard,  or  antique  measure  of 
the  Roman  foot.  Ascending  by  the  steps  of  the  other  cor- 
ner, are  inserted  four  basso-relievos,  viz,  the  triumph  and 
sacrifice  of  Marcus  Aurelius,  which  last,  for  the  antiquity 
and  rareness  of  the  work,  I  caused  my  painter,  Carlo 
Neapolitano,  to  copy.  There  are  also  two  statues  of  the 
Muses,  and  one  of  Adrian,  the  Emperor;  above  stands 
the  figure  of  Marius,  and  by  the  wall  Marsyas  bound  to 
a  tree ;  all  of  them  excellent  and  antique.  Above  in  the 
lobby  are  inserted  into  the  walls  those  ancient  laws,  on 
brass,  called  the  Twelve  Tables ;  a  fair  Madonna  of  Pietro 
Perugino,  painted  on  the  wall;  near  which  are  the  ar- 
chives, full  of  ancient  records. 

In  the  great  hall  are  divers  excellent  paintings  of  Cava- 
liero  Giuseppe  d'Arpino,  a  statue  in  brass  of  Sextus  V. 
and  of  Leo  X.,  of  marble..  In  another  hall  are  many 
modern  statues  of  their  late  Consuls  and  Governors,  set 
about  with  fine  antique  heads ;  others  are  painted  by  ex- 
cellent masters,  representing  the  actions  of  M.  Scsevola, 
Horatius  Codes,  etc.  The  room  where  the  Conserva- 
tori  now  feast  upon  solemn  days,  is  tapestried  with  crim- 
son damask,  embroidered  with  gold,  having  a  state  or 
balduquino  of  crimson  velvet,  very  rich ;  the  frieze  above 
rarely  painted.  Here  are  in  brass,  Romulus  and  Remus 
sucking  the  wolf,  of  brass,  with  the  Shepherd,  Faustulus, 
by  them ;  also  the  boy  plucking  the  thorn  out  of  his  foot, 
of  brass,  so  much  admired  by  artists.  There  are  also 
holy  statues  and  heads  of  Saints.  In  a  gallery  near  ad- 
'joining  are  the  names  of  the  ancient  Consuls,  Praetors, 
and  Fasti  Romani,  so  celebrated  by  the  learned ;  also  the 
figure  of  an  old  woman;  two  others  representing  Poverty; 
and  more  in  fragments.  In  another  large  rooin,  furnished 
with  velvet,  are  the  statue  of  Adonis,  very  rare,  and 
divers  antique  heads.  In  the  next  chamber,  is  an  old 
statue  of  Cicero,  one  of  another  Consul,  a  Hercules  in 
brass,  two  women's  heads  of  incomparable  work,  six 
other  statues;  and,  over  the  chimney,  a  very  rare  basso- 


I04  DIARY   OF  home 

relievo,  and  other  figures.  In  a  little  lobby  before  the 
chapel,  is  the  statue  of  Hannibal,  a  Bacchus  very  antique, 
busioes  of  Pan  and  Mercury,  with  other  old  heads.  All 
these  noble  statues,  etc.,  belong  to  the  city,  and  cannot 
be  disposed  of  to  any  private  person,  or  removed  hence, 
but  are  preserved  for  the  honor  of  the  place,  though  great 
sums  have  been  offered  for  them  by  divers  Princes, 
lovers  of  art,  and  antiquity.  We  now  left  the  Capitol, 
certainly  one  of  the  most  renowned  places  in  the  world, 
even  as  now  built  by  the  design  of  the  famous  M. 
Angelo. 

Returning  home  by  Ara  Coeli,  we  mounted  to  it  by 
more  than  loo  marble  steps,  not  in  devotion,  as  I  ob- 
served some  to  do  on  their  bare  knees,  but  to  see  those 
two  famous  statues  of  Constantine,  in  white  marble, 
placed  there  out  of  his  baths.  In  this  church  is  a 
Madonna,  reported  to  be  painted  by  St.  Luke,  and  a 
column,  on  which  we  saw  the  print  of  a  foot,  which  they 
affirm  to  have  been  that  of  the  Angel,  seen  on  the  Castle 
of  St.  Angelo.  Here  the  feast  of  our  Blessed  Savior's 
nativity  being  yearly  celebrated  with  divers  pageants, 
they  began  to  make  the  preparation.  Having  viewed  the 
Palace  and  fountain,  at  the  other  side  of  the  stairs,  we 
returned  weary  to  our  lodgings. 

On  the  7th  of  November,  we  went  again  near  the 
Capitol,  toward  the  Tarpeian  rock,  where  it  has  a  goodly 
prospect  of  the  Tiber.  Thence,  descending  by  the  Tul- 
lianum,  where  they  told  us  St.  Peter  was  imprisoned, 
they  showed  us  a  chapel  ( S.  Pietro  de  Vincoli )  in  which 
a  rocky  side  of  it  bears  the  impression  of  his  face.  In 
the  nave  of  the  church  gushes  a  fountain,  which  they 
say  was  caused  by  the  Apostle's  prayers,  when  having 
converted  some  of  his  fellow-captives  he  wanted  water 
to  make  them  Christians.  The  painting  of  the  Ascension 
is  by  Raphael.  We  then  walked  about  Mount  Palatinus 
and  the  Aventine,  and  thence  to  the  Circus  Maximus, 
capable  of  holding  40, 000  spectators,  now  a  heap  of  ruins, 
converted  into  gardens.  Then  by  the  Forum  Boarium^ 
where  they  have  a  tradition  that  Hercules  slew  Cacus, 
some  ruins  of  his  temple  remaining.  The  Temple  of 
Janus  Quadrifrons,  having  four  arches,  importing  the  four 
Seasons,  and  on  each  side  niches  for  the  months,  is  still 
a  substantial  and  pretty  entire  antiquity.     Near  to  this  is 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  105 

the  Arcus  Argentariorum.  Bending  now  toward  the 
Tiber,  we  went  into  the  Theater  of  Marcellus,  which 
would  hold  80,000  persons,  built  by  Augustus,  and  ded- 
icated to  his  nephew;  the  architecture,  from  what 
remains,  appears  to  be  inferior  to  none.  It  is  now  wholly 
converted  into  the  house  of  the  Savelli,  one  of  the  old 
Roman  families.  The  people  were  now  generally  busy 
in  erecting  temporary  triumphs  and  arches  with  statues 
and  flattering  inscriptions  against  his  Holiness's  grand 
procession  to  St.  John  di  Laterani,  among  which  the 
Jews  also  began  one  in  testimony  of  gratitude  for  their 
protection  under  the  Papal  State.  The  Palazzo  Barberini, 
designed  by  the  present  Pope's  architect,  Cavaliero  Ber- 
nini, seems  from  the  size  to  be  as  princely  an  object,  as 
any  modern  building  in  Europe.  It  has  a  double  portico, 
at  the  end  of  which  we  ascended  by  two  pair  of  oval 
stairs,  all  of  stone,  and  void  in  the  well.  One  of  these 
led  us  into  a  stately  hall,  the  volto  whereof  was  newly 
painted  d  fresco^  by  the  rare  hand  of  Pietro  Berretini  il 
Cortone.  To  this  is  annexed  a  gallery  completely  fur- 
nished with  whatever  art  can  call  rare  and  singular,  and 
a  library  full  of  worthy  collections,  medals,  marbles,  and 
manuscripts;  but,  above  all,  an  Egyptian  Osiris,  remark- 
able for  its  unknown  material  and  antiquity.  In  one  of 
the  rooms  near  this  hangs  the  Sposaliccio  of  St.  Sebas- 
tian, the  original  of  Annibal  Caracci,  of  which  I  pro- 
cured a  copy,  little  inferior  to  the  prototype;  a  table,  in 
my  judgment,  superior  to  anything  I  had  seen  in  Rome. 
In  the  court  is  a  vast  broken  giiglia,  or  obelisk,  having 
divers  hieroglyphics  cut  on  it. 

8th  November,  1644.  We  visited  the  Jesuits'  Church, 
the  front  whereof  is  esteemed  a  noble  piece  of  architec- 
ture, the  design  of  Jacomo  della  Porta  and  the  famous 
Vignola.  In  this  church  lies  the  body  of  their  renowned 
Ignatius  Loyola,  an  arm  of  Xaverius,  their  other  Apos- 
tle ;  and,  at  the  right  end  of  their  high  altar,  their  cham- 
pion, Cardinal  Bellarmine.  Here  Father  Kircher  (professor 
of  Mathematics  and  the  oriental  tongues)  showed  us  many 
singular  courtesies,  leading  us  into  their  refectory,  dis- 
pensatory, laboratory,  gardens,  and  finally  (through  a 
hall  hung  round  with  pictures  of  such  of  their  order  as 
had  been  executed  for  their  pragmatical  and  busy  adven- 
tures) into  his  own  study,  where,    with    Dutch   patience, 


io6  DIARY   OF  rome 

lie  showed  us  his  perpetual  motions,  catoptrics,  magnet- 
ical  experiments,  models,  and  a  thousand  other  crotchets 
and  devices,  most  of  them  since  published  by  himself, 
or  his  industrious  scholar,  Schotti. 

Returning  home,  we  had  time  to  view  the  Palazzo  de 
Medicis,  which  was  an  house  of  the  Duke  of  Florence 
near  our  lodging,  upon  the  brow  of  Mons  Pincius,  hav- 
ing a  fine  prospect  toward  the  Campo  Marzo.  It  is  a 
magnificent,  strong  building,  with  a  substruction  very- 
remarkable,  and  a  portico  supported  with  columns  to- 
ward the  gardens,  with  two  huge  lions,  of  marble,  at 
the  end  of  the  balustrade.  The  whole  outside  of  the 
facciata  is  incrusted  with  antique  and  rare  basso-relievos 
and  statues.  Descending  into  the  garden  is  a  noble  foun- 
tain governed  by  a  Mercury  of  brass.  At  a  little  dis- 
tance, on  the  left,  is  a  lodge  full  of  fine  statues,  among 
which  the  Sabines,  antique  and  singularly  rare.  In  the 
arcade  near  this  stand  twenty-four  statues  of  great  price, 
and  hard  by  is  a  mount  planted  with  cypresses,  rep- 
resenting a  fortress,  with  a  goodly  fountain  in  the  mid- 
dle. Here  is  also  a  row  balustred  with  white  marble, 
covered  over  with  the  natural  shrubs,  ivy,  and  other 
perennial  greens,  divers  statues  and  heads  being  placed 
as  in  niches.  At  a  little  distance  are  those  famed  stat- 
ues of  Niobe  and  her  family,  in  all  fifteen,  as  large  as 
the  life,  of  which  we  have  ample  mention  in  Pliny,  es- 
teemed among  the  best  pieces  of  work  in  the  world  for 
the  passions  they  express,  and  all  other  perfections  of 
that  stupendous  art.  There  is  likewise  in  this  garden  a 
fair  obelisk,  full  of  hieroglyphics.  In  going  out,  the 
fountain  before  the  front  casts  water  near  fifty  feet  in 
height,  when  it  is  received  in  a  most  ample  marble  basin. 
Here  they  usually  rode  the  great  horse  every  morning; 
which  gave  me  much  diversion  from  the  terrace  of  my 
own  chamber,  where  I  could  see  all  their  motions.  This 
evening,  I  was  invited  to  hear  rare  music  at  the  Chiesa 
Nova;  the  black  marble  pillars  within  led  us  to  that 
most  precious  oratory  of  Philippus  Nerius,  their  founder; 
they  being  of  the  oratory  of  secular  priests,  under  no 
vow.  There  are  in  it  divers  good  pictures,  as  the  As- 
sumption of  Girolamo  Mutiano;  the  Crucifix;  the  Visita- 
tion of  Elizabeth;  the  Presentation  of  the  Blessed  Virgin; 
Christo  Sepolto,  of  Guido  Rheno,  Caravaggio,  Arpino,  and 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  107 

others.  This  fair  church  consists  of  fourteen  altars,  and 
as  many  chapels.  In  it  is  buried  (besides  their  Saint) 
Caesar  Baronius,  the  great  annalist.  Through  this,  we 
went  into  the  sacristia,  where,  the  tapers  being  lighted, 
one  of  the  Order  preached ;  after  him  stepped  up  a  child 
of  eight  or  nine  years  old,  who  pronounced  an  oration 
with  so  much  grace,  that  I  never  was  better  pleased 
than  to  hear  Italian  so  well  and  so  intelligently  spoken. 
This  course  it  seems  they  frequently  use,  to  bring  their 
scholars  to  a  habit  of  speaking  distinctly,  and  forming 
their  action  and  assurance,  which  none  so  much  want  as 
ours  in  England.  This  being  finished,  began  their  inotet- 
tos,  which  in  a  lofty  cupola  richly  painted,  were  sung  by 
eunuchs,  and  other  rare  voices,  accompanied  by  theor- 
boes,  harpsichords,  and  viols,  so  that  we  were  even  rav- 
ished with  the  entertainment  of  the  evening.  This  room 
is  painted  by  Cortona,  and  has  in  it  two  figures  in  the 
niches,  and  the  church  stands  in  one  of  the  most  stately 
streets  of  Rome. 

loth  November,  1644.  We  went  to  see  Prince  Ludo- 
visio's  villa,  where  was  formerly  the  Viridarium  of  the 
poet,  Sallust.  The  house  is  very  magnificent,  and  the 
extent  of  the  ground  exceedingly  large,  considering  that 
it  is  in  a  city ;  in  every  quarter  of  the  garden  are  antique 
statues,  and  walks  planted  with  cypress.  To  this  garden 
belongs  a  house  of  retirement,  built  in  the  fignire  of  a 
cross,  after  a  particular  ordonnance,  especially  the  stair- 
case. The  whiteness  and  smoothness  of  the  excellent 
pargeting  was  a  thing  I  much  observed,  being  almost  as 
even  and  polished,  as  if  it  had  been  of  marble.  Above, 
is  a  fair  prospect  of  the  city.  In  one  of  the  chambers 
hang  two  famous  pieces  of  Bassano,  the  one  a  Vulcan, 
the  other  a  Nativity;  there  is  a  German  clock  full  of 
rare  and  extraordinary  motions;  and,  in  a  little  room 
below  are  many  precious  marbles,  columns,  urns,  vases, 
and  noble  statues  of  porphyr)%  oriental  alabaster,  and 
other  rare  materials.  About  this  fabric  is  an  ample  area, 
environed  with  sixteen  vast  jars  of  red  earth,  wherein 
the  Romans  used  to  preserve  their  oil,  or  wine  rather, 
which  they  buried,  and  such  as  are  properly  called  testcB. 
In  the  Palace  I  must  never  forget  the  famous  statue  of 
the  Gladiator,  spoken  of  by  Pliny,  so  much  followed  by 
all  the  rare  artists  as  the  many  copies   testify,  dispersed 


io8  DIARY   OF  rome 

through  almost  all  Europe,  both  in  stone  and  metal. 
There  is  also  a  Hercules,  a  head-  of  porphyry,  and  one 
of  Marcus  Aurelius.  In  the  villa-house  is  a  man's  body 
flesh  and  all,  petrified,  and  even  converted  to  marble,  as 
it  was  found  in  the  Alps,  and  sent  by  the  Emperor  to 
one  of  the  Popes;  it  lay  in  a  chest,  or  coffin,  lined  with 
black  velvet,  and  one  of  the  arms  being  broken,  you  may 
see  the  perfect  bone  from  the  flesh  which  remains  entire. 
The  Rape  of  Proserpine,  in  marble,  is  of  the  purest 
white,  the  work  of  Bernini.  In  the  cabinet  near  it  are 
innumerable  small  brass  figures,  and  other  curiosities. 
But  what  some  look  upon  as  exceeding  all  the  rest,  is  a 
very  rich  bedstead  (which  sort  of  gross  furniture  the 
Italians  much  glory  in,  as  formerly  did  our  grandfathers 
in  England  in  their  inlaid  wooden  ones)  inlaid  with  all 
sorts  of  precious  stones  and  antique  heads,  onyxes, 
agates,  and  cornelians,  esteemed  to  be  worth  80  or  90,000 
crowns.  Here  are  also  divers  cabinets  and  tables  of  the 
Florence  work,  besides  pictures  in  the  gallery,  especially 
the  Apollo  —  a  conceited  chair  to  sleep  in  with  the  legs 
stretched  out,  with  hooks,  and  pieces  of  wood  to  draw 
out  longer  or  shorter. 

From  this  villa,  we  went  to  see  Signor  Angeloni's 
study,  who  very  courteously  showed  us  such  a  collection 
of  rare  medals  as  is  hardly  to  be  paralleled;  divets  good 
pictures,  and  many  outlandish  and  Indian  curiosities,  and 
things  of  nature. 

From  him,  we  walked  to  Monte  Cavallo,  heretofore 
called  Mons  Quirinalis,  where  we  saw  those  two  rare 
horses,  the  work  of  the  rivals  Phidias  and  Praxiteles,  as 
they  were  sent  to  Nero  (by  Tiridates  King)  out  of  Ar- 
menia. They  were  placed  on  pedestals  of  white  marble 
by  Sextus  V.,  by  whom  I  suppose  their  injuries  were 
repaired,  and  are  governed  by  four  naked  slaves,  like 
those  at  the  foot  of  the  Capitol.  Here  runs  a  most  noble 
fountain,  regarding  four  of  the  most  stately  streets  for 
building  and  beauty  to  be  seen  in  any  city  of  Europe. 
Opposite  to  these  statues  is  the  Pope's  summer  palace, 
built  by  Gregory  XIII. ;  and,  in  my  opinion,  it  is,  for 
largeness  and  the  architecture,  one  of  the  most  conspic- 
uous in  Rome,  having  a  stately  portico  which  leads  round 
the  court  under  columns,  in  the  centre  of  which  there 
runs  a  beautiful  fountain.     The  chapel  is  incrusted  with 


1 644  JOHN  EVELYN  109 

such  precious  materials,  that  nothing  can  be  more  rich, 
or  glorious,  nor  are  the  other  ornaments  and  movables 
about  it  at  all  inferior.  The  hall  is  painted  by  Lanfranci, 
and  others.  The  garden,  which  is  called  the  Belvedere 
di  Monte  Cavallo,  in  emulation  of  that  of  the  Vatican, 
is  most  excellent  for  air  and  prospect;  its  exquisite  foun- 
tains, close  walks,  grots,  piscinas,  or  stews  for  fish,  planted 
about  with  venerable  cypresses,  and  refreshed  with  water- 
music,  aviaries,  and  other  rarities. 

12th  November,  1644.  We  saw  Dioclesian's  Baths, 
whose  ruins  testify  the  vastness  of  the  original  founda- 
tion and  magnificence;  by  what  M.  Angelo  took  from 
the  ornaments  about  it,  'tis  said  he  restored  the  then 
almost  lost  art  of  architecture.  This  monstrous  pile  was 
built  by  the  labor  of  the  primitive  Christians,  then  under 
one  of  the  ten  great  persecutions.  The  Church  of  St. 
Bernardo  is  made  out  of  one  only  of  these  ruinous  cupolas, 
and  is  in  the  form  of  an  urn  with  a  cover. 

Opposite  to  this,  is  the  Fontana  delle  Therme,  otherwise 
called  Fons  Felix;  in  it  is  a  basso-relievo  of  white  marble, 
representing  Moses  striking  the  rock,  which  is  'adorned 
with  camels,  men,  women,  and  children  drinking,  as  large 
as  life ;  a  work  for  the  design  and  vastness  truly  magnifi- 
cent. The  water  is  conveyed  no  less  than  twenty-two 
miles  in  an  aqueduct  by  Sextus  V.,  ex  agro  Columna,  by 
way  of  Praeneste,  as  the  inscription  testifies.  It  gushes 
into  three  ample  lavers  raised  about  with  stone,  before 
which  are  placed  two  lions  of  a  strange  black  stone,  very 
rare  and  antique.  Near  this  are  the  store-houses  for  the 
city's  corn,  and  over  against  it  the  Church  of  St.  Susanna, 
where  were  the  gardens  of  Sallust.  The  facikta  of  this 
church  is  noble,  the  soffito  within  gilded  and  full  of 
pictures ;  especially  famous  is  that  of  Susanna,  by  Baldassa 
di  Bologna.  The  tribunal  of  the  high  altar  is  of  exquisite 
work,  from  whose  marble  steps  you  descend  under  ground 
to  the  repository  of  divers  Saints.  The  picture  over  this 
altar  is  the  work  of  Jacomo  Siciliano.  The  foundation  is 
for  Bernadine  Nuns, 

Santa  Maria  della  Vittoria  presents  us  with  the  most 
ravishing  front.  In  this  church  was  sung  the  Te  Deum  by 
Gregory  XV.,  after  the  signal  victory  of  the  Emperor  at 
Prague;  the  standards  then  taken  still  hang  up,  and  the 
impress  waving  this  motto  over  the  Pope's  arms,  Extir- 


no  DIARY    OF  ROME 

pentur.  I  observed  that  the  high  altar  was  much  fre- 
quented for  an  image  of  the  Virgin.  It  has  some  rare 
statues,  as  Paul  ravished  into  the  third  heaven,  by  Fia- 
mingo,  and  some  good  pictures.  From  this,  we  bent 
toward  Dioclesian's  Baths,  never  satisfied  with  contem- 
plating that  immense  pile,  in  building  which  150,000  Chris- 
tians were  destined  to  labor  fourteen  years,  and  were  then 
all  murdered.  Here  is  a  monastery  of  Carthusians,  called 
Santa  Maria  degli  Angeli,  the  architecture  of  M.  Angelo, 
and  the  cloister  encompassing  walls  in  an  ample  garden. 

Mont  Alto's  villa  is  entered  by  a  stately  gate  of  stone 
built  on  the  Viminalis,  and  is  no  other  than  a  spacious 
park  full  of  fountains,  especially  that  which  salutes  us  at 
the  front;  stews  for  fish;  the  cypress  walks  are  so  beset 
with  statues,  inscriptions,  relievos,  and  other  ancient 
marbles,  that  nothing  can  be  more  stately  and  solemn. 
The  citron  trees  are  uncommonly  large.  In  the  palace 
joining  to  it  are  innumerable  collections  of  value.  Return- 
ing, we  stepped  into  St.  Agnes  church,  where  there  is  a 
tribunal  of  antique  mosaic,  and  on  the  altar  a  most  rich 
ciborio  of  brass,  with  a  statue  of  St.  Agnes  in  oriental 
alabaster.  The  church  of  Santa  Constanza  has  a  noble 
cupola.  Here  they  showed  us  a  stone  ship  borne  on  a 
column  heretofore  sacred  to  Bacchus,  as  the  relievo  inti- 
mates by  the  drunken  emblems  and  instruments  wrought 
upon  it.  The  altar  is  of  rich  porphyry,  as  I  remember. 
Looking  back,  we  had  the  entire  view  of  the  Via  Pia  down 
to  the  two  horses  before  the  Monte  Cavallo,  before  men- 
tioned, one  of  the  most  glorious  sights  for  state  and 
magnificence  that  any  city  can  show  a  traveler.  We  re- 
turned by  Porta  Pia,  and  the  Via  Salaria,  near  Campo 
Scelerato,  in  whose  gloomy  caves  the  wanton  Vestals  were 
heretofore  immured  alive. 

Thence  to  Via  Felix,  a  straight  and  noble  street  but 
very  precipitous,  till  we  came  to  the  four  fountains  of 
Lepidus,  built  at  the  abutments  of  four  stately  ways, 
making  an  exact  cross  of  right  angles;  and,  at  the  foun- 
tains, are  as  many  cumbent  figures  of  marble,  under  very 
large  niches  of  stone,  the  water  pouring  into  huge  basins. 
The  church  of  St.  Carlo  is  a  singular  fabric  for  neatness, 
of  an  oval  design,  built  of  a  new  white  stone;  the  col- 
umns are  worth  notice.  Under  it  is  another  church  of  a 
structure  nothing  less  admirable. 


i644  JOHN  EVELYN  iii 

Next,  we  came  to  Santa  Maria  ^laggiore,  built  upon 
the  Esqueline  Mountain,  which  gives  it  a  most  conspicu- 
ous face  to  the  street  at  a  great  distance.  The  design  is 
mixed  partly  antique,  partly  modem.  Here  they  affirm 
that  the  Blessed  Virgin  appearing,  showed  where  it  should 
be  built  300  years  since.  The  first  pavement  is  rare  and 
antique;  so  is  the  portico  built  by  P.  P.  Eugenius  11. 
The  ciborio  is  the  work  of  Paris  Romano,  and  the  tri- 
bunal of  Mosaic. 

We  were  showed  in  the  church  a  concha  of  porphyry, 
wherein  they  say  Patricius,  the  founder,  lies.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  famous  of  the  seven  Roman  Churches,  and 
is,  in  my  opinion  at  least,  after  St.  Peter's,  the  most  mag- 
nificent. Above  all,  for  incomparable  glory  and  mate- 
rials, are  the  two  chapels  of  Sextus  V.  and  Paulus  V. 
That  of  Sextus  was  designed  by  Dom.  Fontana,  in  which 
are  two  rare  gpreat  statues,  and  some  good  pieces  of 
painting;  and  here  they  pretended  to  show  some  of  the 
Holy  Innocents'  bodies  slain  by  Herod:  as  also  that  re- 
nowned tabernacle  of  metal,  gilt,  sustained  by  four  angels, 
holding  as  many  tapers,  placed  on  the  altar.  In  this 
chapel  is  the  statue  of  Sextus,  in  copper,  with  basso- 
relievos  of  most  of  his  famous  acts,  in  Parian  marble; 
but  that  of  P.  Paulus,  which  we  next  entered,  opposite  to 
this,  is  beyond  all  imagination  glorious,  and  above  de- 
scription. It  is  so  encircled  with  agates,  and  other  most 
precious  materials,  as  to  dazzle  and  confound  the  behold- 
ers. The  basso-relievos  are  for  the  most  part  of  pure 
snowy  marble,  intermixed  with  figures  of  molten  brass, 
double  gilt,  on  lapis  lazuli.  The  altar  is  a  most  stupen- 
dous piece;  but  most  incomparable  is  the  cupola  painted 
by  Giuseppe  Rheni,  and  the  present  Baglioni,  full  of  ex- 
quisite sculptures.  There  is  a  most  sumptuous  sacristia; 
and  the  piece  over  the  altar  was  by  the  hand  of  St. 
Luke ;  if  you  will  believe  it.  Paulus  V.  hath  here  likewise 
built  two  other  altars;  under  the  one  lie  the  bones  of 
the  Apostle,  St.  Matthias.  In  another  oratory,  is  the 
statue  of  this  Pope,  and  the  head  of  the  Congo  Ambas- 
sador, who  was  converted  at  Rome,  and  died  here.  In  a 
third  chapel,  designed  by  Michael  Angelo,  lie  the  bodies 
of  Platina,  and  the  Cardinal  of  Toledo,  Honorius  III., 
Nicephorus  IV.,  the  ashes  of  St.  Hierom,  and  many 
others.     In    that    of    Sextus  V.,    before    mentioned,    was 


112  DIARY  OF  ROME 

showed  us  part  of  the  crib  in  which  Christ  was  swaddled 
at  Bethlehem ;  there  is  also  the  statue  of  Pius  V. ;  and 
going  out  at  the  further  end,  is  the  resurrection  of  Laz- 
arus, by  a  very  rare  hand.  In  the  portico,  is  this  late 
inscription:  *-'- Cardinal  Antonio  Barberino  Archypresbytero, 
aream  niarnioreafn  quvm  Christianorum  pietas  exsculpsit, 
laborante  sub  Tyrannis  ecclesid,  ut  esset  loci  sanctitate  vener- 
abilior,  Francis  Gualdus  Arm.  Eques  S.  Stephani  i  suis 
cedibus  hue  transtulit  et  ornavit,  16^2?'*  Just  before  this 
portico,  stands  a  very  sublime  and  stately  Corinthian 
column,  of  white  marble,  translated  hither  for  an  orna- 
ment from  the  old  Temple  of  Peace,  built  by  Vespasian, 
having  on  the  plinth  of  the  capital  the  image  of  our 
Lady,  gilt  on  metal;  at  the  pedestal  runs  a  fountain. 
Going  down  the  hill,  we  saw  the  obelisk  taken  from  the 
Mausoleum  of  Augustus,  and  erected  in  this  place  by 
Domenico  Fontana,  with  this  epigraph:  *■*•  Sextus  V.  Pont. 
Max.  Obeliscum  ex  Egypto  advectum.,  Augusti  in  Mausoleo 
dicatum,  eversum  deinde  et  in  pliires  confractum  partes,  in 
via  ad  S.  Rochuni  j'acentem,  in  pristinam  faciem  restitutunt 
Salutiferce  Cruci feliciiis  hicerigijussit,  anno  MDLXXXVIII, 
Pont.  IIP^\    and  so  we  came  weary  to  our  lodgings. 

At  the  foot  of  this  hill,  is  the  church  of  St.  Prudentia, 
in  which  is  a  well,  filled  with  the  blood  and  bones  of 
several  martyrs,  but  grated  over  with  iron,  and  visited 
by  many  devotees.  Near  this  stands  the  church  of  her 
sister,  S.  Praxedeis,  much  frequented  for  the  same  reason. 
In  a  little  obscure  place,  canceled  in  with  iron  work,  is 
the  pillar,  or  stump,  at  which  they  relate  our  Blessed 
Savior  was  scourged,  being  full  of  bloody  spots,  at  which 
the  devout  sex  are  always  rubbing  their  chaplets,  and  convey 
their  kisses  by  a  stick  having  a  tassel  on  it.  Here,  besides  a 
noble  statue  of  St.  Peter,  is  the  tomb  of  the  famous  Cardinal 
Cajetan,  an  excellent  piece;  and  here  they  hold  that  St. 
Peter  said  his  first  mass  at  Rome,  with  the  same  altar 
and  the  stone  he  kneeled  on,  he  having  been'  first  lodged 
in  this  house,  as  they  compute  about  the  forty-fourth 
year  of  the  Incarnation.  They  also  show  many  relics,  or 
rather  rags,  of  his  mantle.  St.  Laurence  in  Panispema 
did  next  invite  us,  where  that  martyr  was  cruelly  broiled 
on  the  gridiron,  there  yet  remaining.  St.  Bridget  is 
buried  in  this  church  under  a  stately  monument.  In  the 
front  of  the  pile  is  the  suffering  of  St.  Laurence  painted 


1604  JOHN   EVELYN  113 

d fresco  on  the  wall.  The  fabric  is  nothing  but  Gothic.  On 
the  left  is  the  Therma  Novatii ;  and,  on  the  right,  Agrip- 
pina's  Lavacrum. 

14th  November,  1644.  We  passed  again  through  the 
stately  Capitol  and  Campo  Vaccino  toward  the  Amphi- 
theater of  Vespasian,  but  first  stayed  to  look  at  Titus's 
Triumphal  Arch,  erected  by  the  people  of  Rome,  in 
honor  of  his  victory  at  Jerusalem;  on  the  left  hand 
whereof  he  is  represented  drawn  in  a  chariot  with  four 
horses  abreast;  on  the  right  hand,  or  side  of  the  arch 
within,  is  sculptured  in  figures,  or  basso-relievo  as  big 
as  the  life  (and  in  one  entire  marble)  the  Ark  of  the 
Covenant,  on  which  stands  the  seven-branched  candle- 
stick described  in  Leviticus,  as  also  the  two  Tables  of 
the  Law,  all  borne  on  men's  shoulders  by  the  bars,  as 
they  are  described  in  some  of  St.  Hierom's  bibles;  be- 
fore this,  go  many  crowned  and  laureated  figures,  and 
twelve  Roman  fasces  with  other  sacred  vessels.  This 
much  confirmed  the  idea  I  before  had ;  and  therefore,  for 
the  light  it  gave  to  the  Holy  History,  I  caused  my 
painter,  Carlo,  to  copy  it  exactly.  The  rest  of  the  work 
of  the  Arch  is  of  the  noblest,  best  understood  composita; 
and  the  inscription  is  this,  in  capital  letters: 

s.   p.    Q.    R. 

D.    TITO,    D.     VESPASIANI,    F.    VESPASIANI     AVGVSTO. 

Santa  Maria  Nova  is  on  the  place  where  they  told  us 
Simon  Magus  fell  out  of  the  air  at  St.  Peter's  prayer, 
and  burst  himself  to  pieces  on  a  flint.  Near  this  is  a 
marble  monument,  erected  by  the  people  of  Rome  in 
memory  of  the  Pope's  return  from  Avignon. 

Being  now  passed  the  ruins  of  Meta-Sudante  (which 
stood  before  the  Colosseum,  so  called,  because  there  once 
stood  here  the  statue  of  Commodus  provided  to  refresh 
the  gladiators),  we  enter  the  mighty  ruins  of  the  Ves- 
pasian Amphitheatre,  begun  by  Vespasian,  and  finished 
by  that  excellent  prince,  Titus.  It  is  830  Roman  palms 
in  length  {i.  e.  130  paces),  90  in  breadth  at  the  area, 
with  caves  for  the  wild  beasts  which  used  to  be  baited 
by  men  instead  of  dogs;  the  whole  oval  periphery  28884^ 
palms,  and  capable  of  containing  87,000  spectators  with 
ease  and  all  accommodation:  the  three  rows  of  circles  are 
yet  entire;  the  first  was  for  the  senators,  the  middle  for 

8 


114  DIARY   OF  ROME 

the  nobility,  the  third  for  the  people.  At  the  dedication 
of  this  place  were  5,000  wild  beasts  slain  in  three  months 
during  which  the  feast  lasted,  to  the  expense  of  ten 
millions  of  gold.  It  was  built  of  Tiburtine  stone,  a  vast 
height,  with  the  five  orders  of  architecture,  by  30,000 
captive  Jews.  It  is  without,  of  a  perfect  circle,  and  was 
once  adorned  thick  with  statues,  and  remained  entire, 
till  of  late  that  some  of  the  stones  were  carried  away  to 
repair  the  city  walls  and  build  the  Famesian  palace. 
That  which  still  appears  most  admirable  is,  the  contriv- 
ance of  the  porticos,  vaults,  and  stairs,  with  the  exces- 
sive altitude,  which  well  deserves  this  distich  of  the  poet : 

^^Oninzs  CcEsareo  cedat  labor  Amphitheatro; 
Unum  pro  cunctis  fama  loquatur  opus.^ 

Near  it  is  a  small  chapel  called  Santa  Maria  della  Pieta 
nel  Colisseo,  which  is  erected  on  the  steps,  or  stages,  very 
lofty  at  one  of  its  sides,  or  ranges,  within,  and  where  there 
lives  only  a  melancholy  hermit.  I  ascended  to  the  very 
top  of  it  with  wonderful  admiration. 

The  Arch  of  Constantine  the  Great  is  close  by  the 
Meta-Sudante,  before  mentioned,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
Via  Appia,  on  one  side  Monte  Celio,  and  is  perfectly  entire, 
erected  by  the  people  in  memory  of  his  victory  over  Max- 
entius,  at  the  Pons  Milvius,  now  Ponte  Mole.  In  the  front 
is  this  inscription: 

IMP.    CAES.    FL.    CONSTANTINO    MAXIMO 

P.    F.    AVGVSTO    S.    P.    Q.    R. 
QVOD    INSTINCTV    DIVINITATIS    MENTIS 

MAGNITVDINE    GYM    EXERCITV    SVO 

TAM   DE    TYRANNO    QYAM    DE    OMNI   EIVS 

FACTIONE    YNO    TEMPORE    IVSTIS 

REMPYBLICAM    VLTYS    EST    ARMIS 

ARCVM    TRIYMPHIS   INSIGNEM    DICAYIT. 

Hence,  we  went  to  St.  Gregorio,  in  Monte  Celio,  where 
are  many  privileged  altars,  and  there  they  showed  us  an 
arm  of  that  saint,  and  other  relics.  Before  this  church 
stands  a  very  noble  portico. 

15th  November,  1644.  Was  very  wet,  and  I  stirred 
not  out,  and  the  i6th  I  went  to  visit  Father  John,  Pro- 
vincial of  the  Benedictines. 


i644  JOHN  EVELYN  115 

17th  November,  1644.  I  walked  to  Villa  Borghese,  a 
house  and  ample  garden  on  Mons  Pincius,  yet  somewhat 
without  the  city  walls,  circumscribed  by  another  wall  full 
of  small  turrets  and  banqueting-houses ;  which  makes  it 
appear  at  a  distance  like  a  little  town.  Within  it  is  an 
elysium  of  delight,  having  in  the  centre  of  it  a  noble 
palace;  but  the  entrance  of  the  garden  presents  us  with 
a  very  glorious  fabric,  or  rather  door-case,  adorned  with 
divers  excellent  marble  statues.  This  garden  abounded 
with  all  sorts  of  delicious  fruit  and  exotic  simples,  foun- 
tains of  sundry  inventions,  groves,  and  small  rivulets. 
There  is  also  adjoining  to  it  a  vivarium  for  ostriches, 
peacocks,  swans,  cranes,  etc.,  and  divers  strange  beasts, 
deer,  and  hares.  The  grotto  is  very  rare,  and  repre- 
sents, among  other  devices,  artificial  rain,  and  sundry 
shapes  of  vessels,  flowers,  etc. ;  which  is  eflFected  by 
changing  the  heads  of  the  fountains.  The  groves  are  of 
cypress,  laurel,  pine,  myrtle,  and  olive.  The  four  sphinxes 
are  very  antique,  and  worthy  observation.  To  this  is  a 
volary,  full  of  curious  birds.  The  house  is  square  with 
turrets,  from  which  the  prospect  is  excellent  toward 
Rome,  and  the  environing  hills,  covered  as  they  now  are 
with  snow,  which  indeed  commonly  continues  even  a 
gfreat  part  of  the  summer,  affording  sweet  refreshment. 
Round  the  house  is  a  baluster  of  white  marble,  with  fre- 
quent jettos  of  water,  and  adorned  with  a  multitude  of 
statues.  The  walls  of  the  house  are  covered  with  antique 
incrustations  of  history,  as  that  of  Curtius,  the  Rape  of 
Europa,  Leda,  etc.  The  cornices  above  consist  of  fruit- 
ages and  festoons,  between  which  are  niches  furnished 
with  statues,  which  order  is  observed  to  the  very  roof. 
In  the  lodge,  at  the  entry,  are  divers  good  statues  of 
Consuls,  etc.,  with  two  pieces  of  field  artillery  upon  car- 
riages, ( a  mode  much  practiced  in  Italy  before  the  great 
men's  houses )  which  they  look  on  as  a  piece  of  state 
more  than  defense.  In  the  first  hall  within,  are  the 
twelve  Roman  Emperors,  of  excellent  marble;  between 
them  stand  porphyry  columns,  and  other  precious  stones 
of  vast  height  and  magnitude,  with  urns  of  oriental 
alabaster.  Tables  of  pietra-commessa :  and  here  is  that 
renowned  Diana  which  Pompey  worshiped,  of  eastern 
marble:  the  most  incomparable  Seneca  of  touch,  bleeding 
in  an  huge   vase    of   porphyry,  resembling   the   drops  of 


u6  DIARY    OF  rome 

his  blood;  the  so  famous  Gladiator,  and  the  Hermaph- 
rodite upon  a  quilt  of  stone.  The  new  piece  of  Daphne, 
and  David,  of  Cavaliero  Bernini,  is  observable  for  the 
pure  whiteness  of  the  stone,  and  the  art  of  the  statuary 
plainly  stupendous.  There  is  a  multitude  of  rare  pictures 
of  infinite  value,  by  the  best  masters;  huge  tables  of 
porphyry,  and  two  exquisitely  wrought  vases  of  the 
same.  In  another  chamber,  are  divers  sorts  of  instru- 
ments of  music :  among  other  toys  that  of  a  satyr,  which 
so  artificially  expressed  a  human  voice,  with  the  motion 
of  eyes  and  head,  that  it  might  easily  afright  one  who 
was  not  prepared  for  that  most  extravagant  sight.  They 
showed  us  also  a  chair  that  catches  fast  any  one  who 
sits  down  in  it,  so  as  not  to  be  able  to  stir  out,  by  cer- 
tain springs  concealed  in  the  arms  and  back  thereof, 
which  at  sitting  down  surprises  a  man  on  the  sudden, 
locking  him  in  by  the  arms  and  thighs,  after  a  true 
treacherous  Italian  guise.  The  perspective  is  also  con- 
siderable, composed  by  the  position  of  looking-glasses, 
which  render  a  strange  multiplication  of  things  resembling 
divers  most  richly  furnished  rooms.  Here  stands  a  rare 
clock  of  German  work;  in  a  word,  nothing  but  what  is 
magnificent  is  to  be  seen  in  this  Paradise. 

The  next  day,  I  went  to  the  Vatican,  where,  in  the 
morning,  I  saw  the  ceremony  of  Pamfilio,  the  Pope's 
nephew,  receiving  a  Cardinal's  hat;  this  was  the  first 
time  I  had  seen  his  Holiness  in  pontificalibus.  After  the 
Cardinals  and  Princes  had  met  in  the  consistory,  the 
ceremony  was  in  the  Pope's  chapel,  where  he  was  at  the 
altar  invested  with  most  pompous  rites. 

19th  November,  1644.  I  visited  St.  Peter's,  that  most 
stupendous  and  incomparable  Basilica,  far  surpassing  any 
now  extant  in  the  world,  and  perhaps,  Solomon's  Temple 
excepted,  any  that  was  ever  built.  The  largeness  of  the 
piazza  before  the  portico  is  worth  observing,  because  it 
affords  a  noble  prospect  of  the  church,  not  crowded  up, 
as  for  the  most  part  is  the  case  in  other  places  where 
great  churches  are  erected.  In  this  is  a  fountain,  out  of 
which  gushes  a  river  rather  than  a  stream  which,  ascend- 
ing a  good  height,  breaks  upon  a  round  emboss  of  marble 
into  millions  of  pearls  that  fall  into  the  subjacent  basins 
with  great  noise ;  I  esteem  this  one  of  the  goodliest  foun- 
tains I  ever  saw. 


i644  JOHN   fiVELYl\^  '  117 

Next  is  the  obelisk  transported  out  of  Egypt,  and  dedi- 
cated by  Octavius  Augustus  to  Julius  Caesar,  whose 
ashes  it  formerly  bore  on  the  summit;  but,  being  since 
overturned  by  the  barbarians,  was  re-erected  with  vast 
cost  and  a  most  stupendous  invention  by  Domenico 
Fontana,  architect  to  Sextus  V.  The  obelisk  consists  of 
one  entire  square  stone  without  hieroglyphics,  in  height 
seventy-two  feet,  but  comprehending  the  base  and  all  it 
is  108  feet  high,  and  rests  on  four  lions  of  gilded  copper, 
so  as  you  may  see  through  the  base  of  the  obelisk  and 
plinth  of  the  pedestal. 

Upon  two  faces  of  the  obelisk  is  engraven 

DIVO    CAES.    DIVI 

IVLII    F.     AVGVSTO 

TI.    CAES.    DIVI    AVG. 

F.     AVGVS.     SACRVM. 

It  now  bears  on  the  top  a  cross  in  which  it  is  said 
that  Sextus  V.  inclosed  some  of  the  holy  wood ;  and  under 
it  is  to  be  read  by  good  eyes: 

SANCTISSIMAE     CRVCI 

SEXTVS    V.    PONT.    MAX. 

CONSECRAVIT. 

E.     PRIORE     SEDE    AVVLSVM 

ET    CAESS.      AVG.     AC    TIB. 

1.  L,     ABLATUM    M.D.LXXXVI. 

On  the  four  faces  of  the  base  below: 

I.       CHRISTVS    VINCIT. 

CHRISTVS    REGNAT. 

CHRISTVS    IMPERAT. 

CHRISTVS    AB    OMNI    MALO 

PLEBEM    SVAM    DEFENDAT. 

2.  SEXTVS    V.      PONT.     MAX. 
OBKLISCVM    VATICANVM    DIIS    GENTIVM 

IMPIO    CVLTV    DICATVM 

AD    APOSTOLORVM    LIMINA 

OPEROSO    LABORE    TRANSTVLIT 

AN.     M.D.LXXXVI.     PONT.    II. 


ii8  DIARY   OF  ROME 

'  3.       ECCE    CRVX    DOMINI 

FVGITE     PARTES 

ADVERSAE 

VINCIT    LEO 

DE    TRIBV    IVDA. 

4.       SEXTVS     V.    PONT.    MAX. 

CRVCI    INVICTAE 

OBELISCVM     VATICANVM 

AB    IMPIA    SVPERSTITIONE 

EXPIATVM    IVSTIVS 

ET    FELICITVS    CONSECRAVIT 

AN.   M.D.L.  XXXVI.    PONT.   II. 

A  little  lower: 

DOMINICVS       FONTANA       EX      PAGO      MILIAGRI       NOVOCOMENSIS 

TRANSTVLIT    ET    EREXIT. 

It  is  reported  to  have  taken  a  year  in  erecting,  to  have 
cost  37,975  crowns,  the  labor  of  907  men,  and  75  horses: 
this  being  the  first  of  the  four  Egyptian  obelisks  set  up 
at  Rome,  and  one  of  the  forty-two  brought  to  the  city 
out  of  Egypt,  set  up  in  several  places,  but  thrown  down 
by  the  Goths,  Barbarians,  and  earthquakes.  Some  coaches 
stood  before  the  steps  of  the  ascent,  whereof  one,  belong- 
ing to  Cardinal  Medici,  had  all  the  metal  work  of  massy 
silver,  viz,  the  bow  behind  and  other  places.  The  coaches 
at  Rome,  as  well  as  covered  wagons  also  much  in  use, 
are  generally  the  richest  and  largest  I  ever  saw.  Before 
the  facciata  of  the  church  is  an  ample  pavement.  The 
church  was  first  begun  by  St.  Anacletus,  when  rather  a 
chapel,  on  a  foundation,  as  they  give  out,  of  Constan- 
tine  the  Great,  who,  in  honor  of  the  Apostles,  carried 
twelve  baskets  full  of  sand  to  the  work.  After  him, 
Julius  II.  took  it  in  hand,  to  which  all  his  successors 
have  contributed  more  or  less. 

The  front  is  supposed  to  be  the  largest  and  best- 
studied  piece  of  architecture  in  the  world;  to  this  we 
went  up  by  four  steps  of  marble.  The  first  entrance  is 
supported  by  huge  pilasters;  the  volto  within  is  the  rich- 
est possible,  and  overlaid  with  gold.  Between  the  five 
large  anti-ports  are  columns  of  enormous  height  and 
compass,  with    as   many   gates   of   brass,    the    work   and 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  119 

sculpture  of  Pollaivola,  the  Florentine,  full  of  cast  figures 
and  histories  in  a  deep  relievo.  Over  this  runs  a  terrace 
of  like  amplitude  and  ornament,  where  the  Pope,  at 
solemn  times,  bestows  his  Benediction  on  the  vulgar. 
On  each  side  of  this  portico  are  two  campaniles^  or 
towers,  whereof  there  was  but  one  perfected,  of  admira- 
ble art.  On  the  top  of  all,  runs  a  balustrade  which 
edges  it  quite  round,  and  upon  this  at  equal  distances 
are  Christ  and  the  twelve  Disciples  of  gigantic  size  and 
stature,  yet  below  showing  no  greater  than  the  life. 
Entering  the  church,  admirable  is  the  breadth  of  the 
volto,  or  roof,  which  is  all  carved  with  foliage  and  roses 
overlaid  with  gold  in  nature  of  a  deep  basso-relievo,  ^ 
Vantique.  The  nave,  or  body,  is  in  form  of  a  cross, 
whereof  the  foot-part  is  the  longest;  and,  at  the  interno- 
dium  of  the  transept,  rises  the  cupola,  which  being  all 
of  stone  and  of  prodigious  height  is  more  in  compass 
than  that  of  the  Pantheon  (which  was  the  largest  among 
the  old  Romans,  and  is  yet  entire)  or  any  other  known. 
The  inside,  or  concave,  is  covered  with  most  exquisite 
Mosaic,  representing  the  Celestial  Hierarchy,  by  Giuseppe 
d  Arpino,  full  of  stars  of  gold;  the  convex,  or  outside, 
exposed  to  the  air,  is  covered  with  lead,  with  great  ribs 
of  metal  double  gilt  (as  are  also  the  ten  other  lesser 
cupolas,  for  no  fewer  adorn  this  glorious  structure), 
which  gives  a  great  and  admirable  splendor  in  all  parts 
of  the  city.  On  the  summit  of  this  is  fixed  a  brazen  globe 
gilt,  capable  of  receiving  thirty-five  persons.  This  I 
entered,  and  engraved  my  name  among  other  travelers. 
Lastly,  is  the  Cross,  the  access  to  which  is  between  the 
leaden  covering  and  the  stone  convex,  or  arch-work;  a 
most  truly  astonishing  piece  of  art!  On  the  battlements 
of  the  church,  also  all  overlaid  with  lead  and  marble, 
you  would  imagine  yourself  in  a  town,  so  many  are  the 
cupolas,  pinnacles,  towers,  juttings,  and  not  a  few  houses 
inhabited  by  men  who  dwell  there,  and  have  enough  to 
do  to  look  after  the  vast  reparations  which  continually 
employ  them. 

Having  seen  this,  we  descended  into  the  body  of  the 
church,  full  of  collateral  chapels  and  large  oratories,  most 
of  them  exceeding  the  size  of  ordinary  churches ;  but  the 
principal  are  four  incrusted  with  most  precious  marbles 
and  stones  of  various  colors,  adorned  with  an  infinity  of 


lao  DIARY  OF  romb 

statues,  pictures,  stately  altars,  and  innumerable  relics. 
The  altar-piece  of  St.  Michael  being  of  Mosaic,  I  could 
not  pass  without  particular  note,  as  one  of  the  best  of 
that  kind.  The  chapel  of  Gregory  XIII.,  where  he  is 
buried,  is  most  splendid.  Under  the  cupola,  and  in  the 
center  of  the  church,  stands  the  high  altar,  consecrated 
first  by  Clement  VIII.,  adorned  by  Paul  V.,  and  lately 
covered  by  Pope  Urban  VIII. ;  with  that  stupendous 
canopy  of  Corinthian  brass,  which  heretofore  was  brought 
from  the  Pantheon ;  it  consists  of  four  wreathed  columns, 
partly  channelled  and  encircled  with  vines,  on  which 
hang  little  puti  birds  and  bees  (the  arms  of  the  Barber- 
ini),  sustaining  a  baldacchino  of  the  same  metal.  The 
four  columns  weigh  an  hundred  and  ten  thousand  pounds, 
all  over  richly  gilt;  this,  with  the  pedestals,  crown,  and 
statues  about  it,  form  a  thing  of  that  art,  vastness,  and 
magnificence,  as  is  beyond  all  that  man's  industry  has 
produced  of  the  kind;  it  is  the  work  of  Bernini,  a  Flor- 
entine sculptor,  architect,  painter,  and  poet,  who,  a  little 
before  my  coming  to  the  city,  gave  a  public  opera  (for 
so  they  call  shows  of  that  kind),  wherein  he  painted  the 
scenes,  cut  the  statues,  invented  the  engines,  composed 
the  music,  writ  the  comedy,  and  built  the  theater.  Op- 
posite to  either  of  these  pillars,  under  those  niches  which, 
with  their  columns,  support  the  weighty  cupola,  are 
placed  four  exquisite  statues  of  Parian  marble,  to  which 
are  four  altars;  that  of  St.  Veronica,  made  by  Fra.  Mochi, 
has  over  it  the  reliquary,  where  they  showed  us  the 
miraculous  Sudarium  indued  with  the  picture  of  our  Sav- 
ior's face,  with  this  inscription:  ^*- Salvatoris  imaginem  Ve- 
roniccB  Sudario  exceptant  ut  loci  majestas  decenttr  custodiret, 
Urbanus  VIII.  Pont.  Max.  Marmoreum  signum  et  Altar e 
addidit,  Conditorium  extruxit  et  ornavit.  *' 

Right  against  this  is  that  of  Longinus,  of  a  Colossean 
magnitude,  also  by  Bernini,  and  over  him  the  conserva- 
tory of  the  iron  lance  inserted  in  a  most  precious  crystal, 
with  this  epigraph :  "  Longini  Lanceam  quam  Innocentius 
VIII.  h  Bajazete  Turcarum  Tyranno  accepit,  Urbanus  VIII. 
statud  appositd,  et  Sacello  substructo^  in  exornatutn  Condito- 
rium transtulit.^'* 

The  third  chapel  has  over  the  altar  the  statue  of  our 
countrywoman,  St.  Helena,  the  mother  of  Constantine  the 
Great ;  the  work  of  Boggi,  an  excellent  sculptor ;  and  here 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  121 

is  preserved  a  great  piece  of  the  pretended  wood  of  the 
holy  cross,  which  she  is  said  to  have  first  detected  mirac- 
ulously in  the  Holy  Land.  It  was  placed  here  by  the  late 
Pope  with  this  inscription :  *^  Partem  Crucis  quain  Helena 
Imperatrix  i  Calvario  in  Urbem  adduxit,  Urbanus  VIII. 
Pont.  Max.  i  Sissoriand  Basilicd  desumptam,  additis  ard  et 
statud,  h\c  in   Vaticano  collocavit.^'* 

The  fourth  hath  over  the  altar,  and  opposite  to  that 
of  St.  Veronica,  the  statue  of  St.  Andrew,  the  work  of 
Flamingo,  admirable  above  all  the  other;  above  is  pre- 
served the  head  of  that  Apostle,  richly  enchased.  It  is 
said  that  this  excellent  sculptor  died  mad  to  see  his 
statue  placed  in  a  disadvantageous  light  by  Bernini,  the 
chief  architect,  who  found  himself  outdone  by  this  artist. 
The  inscription  over  it  is  this: 

<<  St.  AndrecB  caput  quod  Pius  II.  ex  Achaid  in  Vaticanum  aspor- 
tandum  curavit,  Urbanus  VIII.  novis  hie  ornamentis  decoratum 
sacrisque  statues  ae  Saeelli  honoribus  eoli  voluit.'"'* 

The  relics  showed  and  kept  in  this  church  are  without 
number,  as  are  also  the  precious  vessels  of  gold,  silver, 
and  gems,  with  the  vests  and  services  to  be  seen  in  the 
Sacristy,  which  they  showed  us.  Under  the  high  altar 
is  an  ample  grot  inlaid  with  pietra-commessa,  wherein 
half  of  the  bodies  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  are  pre- 
served; before  hang  divers  great  lamps  of  the  richest 
plate,  burning  continually.  About  this  and  contiguous 
to  the  altar,  runs  a  balustrade,  in  form  of  a  theater,  of 
black  marble.  Toward  the  left,  as  you  go  out  of  the 
church  by  the  portico,  a  little  beneath  the  high  altar,  is 
an  old  brass  statue  of  St.  Peter  sitting,  under  the  soles 
of  whose  feet  many  devout  persons  rub  their  heads,  and 
touch  their  chaplets.  This  was  formerly  cast  from  a 
statue  of  Jupiter  Capitolinus.  In  another  place,  stands 
a  column  grated  about  with  iron,  whereon  they  report 
that  our  Blessed  Savior  was  often  wont  to  lean  as  he 
preached  in  the  Temple.  In  the  work  of  the  reliquary 
under  the  cupola  there  are  eight  wreathed  columns 
brought  from  the  Temple  of  Solomon.  In  another 
chapel,  they  showed  us  the  chair  of  St.  Peter,  or,  as 
they  name  it,  the  Apostolical  Throne.  But  among  all  the 
chapels  the  one  most  glorious  has  for  an  altar-piece  a 
Madonna  bearing  a   dead  Christ  on   her   knees,  in  white 


122  DIARY     OF  ROME 

marble,  the  work  of  Michael  Angelo.  At  the  upper  end 
of  the  Cathedral,  are  several  stately  monuments,  espe. 
cially  that  of  Urban  VI 11.  Round  the  cupola,  and  in 
many  other  places  in  the  church,  are  confession  seats, 
for  all  languages,  Hebrew,  Greek,  Latin,  Spanish,  Italian, 
French,  English,  Irish,  Welsh,  Sclavonian,  Dutch,  etc.,  as 
it  is  written  on  their  friezes  in  golden  capitals,  and  there 
are  still  at  confessions  some  of  all  nations.  Toward  the 
lower  end  of  the  church,  and  on  the  side  of  a  vast  pillar 
sustaining  a  weighty  roof,  is  the  depositum  and  statue  of 
the  Countess  Matilda,  a  rare  piece,  with  basso-relievos 
about  it  of  white  marble,  the  work  of  Bernini.  Here 
are  also  those  of  Sextus  IV.  and  Paulus  III,,  etc. 
Among  the  exquisite  pieces  in  this  sumptuous  fabric  is 
that  of  the  ship  with  St.  Peter  held  up  from  sinking  by 
our  Savior;  the  emblems  about  it  are  the  Mosaic  of  the 
famous  Giotto,  who  restored  and  made  it  perfect  after 
it  had  been  defaced  by  the  Barbarians.  Nor  is  the 
pavement  under  the  cupola  to  be  passed  over  without 
observation,  which  with  the  rest  of  the  body  and  walls 
of  the  whole  church,  are  all  inlaid  with  the  richest  of 
pietra-commessa,  in  the  most  splendid  colors  of  polished 
marbles,  agates,  serpentine,  porphyry,  calcedon,  etc., 
wholly  incrusted  to  the  very  roof.  Coming  out  by  the 
portico  at  which  we  entered,  we  were  shown  the  Porta 
Santa,  never  opened  but  at  the  year  of  jubilee.  This 
glorious  foundation  hath  belonging  to  it  thirty  canons, 
thirty-six  beneficiates,  twenty-eight  clerks  beneficed,  with 
innumerable  chaplains,  etc.,  a  Cardinal  being  always 
archpriest;  the  present  Cardinal  was  Francisco  Barberini, 
who  also  styled  himself  Protector  of  the  English,  to  whom 
he  was  indeed  very  courteous. 

2oth  November,  1644,  I  went  to  visit  that  ancient  See 
and  Cathedral  of  St.  John  di  Laterano,  and  the  holy 
places  thereabout.  This  is  a  church  of  extraordinary 
devotion,  though,  for  outward  form,  not  comparable  to 
St.  Peter's,  being  of  Gothic  ordonnance.  Before  we  went 
into  the  cathedral,  the  Baptistery  of  St.  John  Baptist 
presented  itself,  being  formerly  part  of  the  Great  Con- 
stantine's  palace,  and,  as  it  is  said,  his  chamber  where 
by  St.  Silvester  he  was  made  a  Christian.  It  is  of  an 
octagonal  shape,  having  before  the  entrance  eight  fair 
pillars  of  rich   porphyry,  each  of  one  entire  piece,  their 


1 644  JOHN   EVELYN  123 

capitals  of  divers  orders,  supporting  lesser  columns  of 
white  marble,  and  these  supporting  a  noble  cupola,  the 
molding  whereof  is  excellently  wrought.  In  the  chapel 
which  they  affirm  to  have  been  the  lodging  place  of  this 
Emperor,  all  women  are  prohibited  from  entering,  for 
the  malice  of  Herodias  who  caused  him  to  lose  his  head. 
Here  are  deposited  several  sacred  relics  of  St.  James, 
Mary  Magdalen,  St.  Matthew,  etc. ,  and  two  goodly  pictures. 
Another  chapel,  or  oratory  near  it,  is  called  St.  John  the 
Evangelist,  well  adorned  with  marbles  and  tables,  es- 
pecially those  of  Cavaliere  Giuseppe,  and  of  Tempesta, 
in  fresco.  We  went  hence  into  another  called  St.  Ve- 
nantius,  in  which  is  a  tribunal  all  of  Mosiac  in  figures 
of  Popes.  Here  is  also  an  altar  of  the  Madonna,  much 
visited,  and  divers  Sclavonish  saints,  companions  of  Pope 
John  IV.  The  portico  of  the  church  is  built  of  materials 
brought  from  Pontius  Pilate's  house  in  Jerusalem. 

The  next  sight  which  attracted  our  attention,  was  a 
wonderful  concourse  of  people  at  their  devotions  before 
a  place  called  Scala  Sancta,  to  which  is  built  a  noble 
front.  Entering  the  portico,  we  saw  those  large  marble 
stairs,  twenty-eight  in  number,  which  are  never  ascended 
but  on  the  knees,  some  lip-devotion  being  used  on  every 
step;  on  which  you  may  perceive  divers  red  specks  of 
blood  under  a  grate,  which  they  affirm  to  have  been 
drops  of  our  Blessed  Savior,  at  the  time  he  was  so  bar- 
barously misused  by  Herod's  soldiers ;  for  these  stairs  are 
reported  to  have  been  translated  hither  from  his  palace 
in  Jerusalem.  At  the  top  of  them  is  a  chapel,  whereat 
they  enter  (but  we  could  not  be  permitted)  by  gates  of 
marble,  being  the  same  our  Savior  passed  when  he  went 
out  of  Herod's  house.  This  they  name  the  Sanctum  Sanc- 
torum, and  over  it  we  read  this  epigraph: 

Non  est  in  toto  sanctior  orbe  locus. 

Here,  through  a  grate,  we  saw  that  picture  of  Christ 
painted  (as  they  say)  by  the  hand  of  St.  Luke,  to  the 
life.  Descending  again,  we  saw  before  the  church  the 
obelisk,  which  is  indeed  most  worthy  of  admiration.  It 
formerly  lay  in  the  Circo  Maximo,  and  was  erected  here 
by  Sextus  V.,  in  1587,  being  112  feet  in  height  without 
the  base  or  pedestal;  at  the  foot  nine  and  a  half  one 
way,  and  eight  the  other.     This   pillar  was   first  brought 


124  DIARY  OF  ROME 

from  Thebes  at  the  utmost  confines  of  Egypt,  to  Alex- 
andria, from  thence  to  Constantinople,  thence  to  Rome, 
and  is  said  by  Ammianus  Marcellinus  to  have  been  dedi- 
cated to  Rameses,  King  of  Egypt.  It  was  transferred  to 
this  city  by  Constantine  the  son  of  the  Great,  and  is  full 
of  hieroglyphics,  serpents,  men,  owls,  falcons,  oxen,  in- 
struments, etc.,  containing  (as  Father  Kircher  the  Jesuit 
will  shortly  tell  us  in  a  book  which  he  is  ready  to  publish ) 
all  the  recondite  and  abstruse  learning  of  that  people. 
The  vessel,  galley,  or  float,  that  brought  it  to  Rome  so 
many  hundred  leagues,  must  needs  have  been  of  wonder- 
ful bigness  and  strange  fabric.  The  stone  is  one  and 
entire,  and  (having  been  thrown  down)  was  erected  by 
the  famous  Dom.  Fontana,  for  that  magnificent  Pope, 
Sextus  v.,  as  the  rest  were;  it  is  now  cracked  in  many 
places,  but  solidly  joined.  The  obelisk  is  thus  inscribed 
at  the  several  faciatas: 

Fl.  Const antinus  Augustus,  Constantini  Augusti  F.  Obeliscum 
d,  patre  suo  mo  turn  diuq;  AlexandricB  jacentem,  trecentorum  re- 
migum  impositum  navi  mirandcB  vastitatis  per  mare  Tyberitnq; 
magnis  molibus  Romam  convectum  in  Circo  Max.  i)onendum  S.P. 
Q.R.D.D. 

On  the  second  square: 

Fl.  Const  antinus  Max:  Aug:  Christiana  fidei  Vindex  Sf  As- 
sertor  Obeliscum  ab  ^gyptio  Rege  impuro  voto  Soli  dicatum,  sedi- 
bus  avulsum  suis  per  Nilum  transfer.  Alexandriam,  ut  Novam 
Romam  ab  se  tune  conditam  eo  decoraret  monumento. 

On  the  third: 

Sextns  V.  Pontifex  Max:  Obeliscum  hunc  specie  eximid  temporum 
calamitate  fr actum,  Circi  Maximi  ruinis  humo,  limog;  altk  demer- 
sum,  multd  impetisd  extraxit,  hunc  in  locum  magno  labore  transtulit, 
formaq;  pristind  accurate  vestitum,  Cruci  invictissima  dicavit 
anno   M.D.LXXXVIII.  Pont.   II I  I. 

On  the  fourth: 

Constantinus  per  Crucem  Victor  d  Silvestro  Mc  Baptizatus  Cru- 
cis  gloriam  propagavit. 

Leaving  this  wonderful  monument  (before  which  is  a 
stately  public  fountain,  with  a  statue  of  St.  John  in  the 
middle  of  it),  we  visited  His  Holiness's  palace,  being  a 
little  on  the  left  hand,  the  design  of  Fontana,  architect 
to  Sextus  V.     This  I  take  to  be  one  of   the  best  palaces 


1644  JOHN   EVELYN  125 

in  Rome;  but  not  staying  we  entered  the  church  of  St. 
John  di  Laterano,  which  is  properly  the  Cathedral  of 
the  Roman  See,  as  I  learned  by  these  verses  eng^raven 
upon  the  architrave  of  the  portico: 

Dogmate  Papali  datur,  et  simul  Imperiali 

Qudd  Sim  cunctarum  mater  caput  EcclesiarH 

Hinc  Salvatoris  caelestia  regna  datoris 

Nomine  Sanxerunt,  cum  cuncta  per  acta  fuerunt; 

Sic  vos  ex  toto  conversi  supplice  voto 

Nostra  qudd  hcBc  cedes;  tibi  Christe  sit  inclyta  sedes. 

It  is  called  Lateran,  from  a  noble  family  formerly 
dwelling  it  seems  hereabouts,  on  Mons  Caelius.  The 
church  is  Gothic,  and  hath  a  stately  tribunal;  the  paint- 
ings are  of  Pietro  Pisano.  It  was  the  first  church  that 
was  consecrated  with  the  ceremonies  now  introduced, 
and  where  altars  of  stone  supplied  those  of  wood  hereto- 
fore in  use,  and  made  like  large  chests  for  the  easier 
removal  in  times  of  persecution ;  such  an  altar  is  still  the 
great  one  here  preserved,  as  being  that  on  which  (they 
hold)  St.  Peter  celebrated  mass  at  Rome;  for  which 
reason  none  but  the  Pope  may  now  presume  to  make 
that  use  of  it.  The  pavement  is  of  all  sorts  of  precious 
marbles,  and  so  are  the  walls  to  a  great  height,  over 
which  it  is  painted  d  fresco  with  the  life  and  acts  of 
Constantine  the  Great,  by  most  excellent  masters.  The 
organs  are  rare,  supported  by  four  columns.  The  soffito 
is  all  richly  gilded,  and  full  of  pictures.  Opposite  to  the 
porta  is  an  altar  of  exquisite  architecture,  with  a  taber- 
nacle on  it  all  of  precious  stones,  the  work  of  Targoni; 
on  this  is  a  coeyia  of  plate,  the  invention  of  Curtius 
Vanni,  of  exceeding  value;  the  tables  hanging  over  it 
are  of  Giuseppe  d'  Arpino.  About  this  are  four  excellent 
columns  transported  out  of  Asia  by  the  Emperor  Titus, 
of  brass,  double  gilt,  about  twelve  feet  in  height;  the 
walls  between  them  are  incrusted  with  marble  and  set 
with  statues  in  niches,  the  vacuum  reported  to  be  filled 
with  holy  earth,  which  St.  Helena  sent  from  Jerusalem 
to  her  son,  Constantine,  who  set  these  pillars  where  they 
now  stand.  At  one  side  of  this  is  an  oratory  full  of  rare 
paintings  and  monuments,  especially  those  of  the  great 
Connest^bile  Colonna.  Out  of  this  we  came  into  the 
sacristia,  full  of  good  pictures  of  Albert  and  others.  At 
the  end  of  the  church  is  a  flat  stone   supported  by   four 


126  DIARY   OF  ROME 

pillars  which  they  affirm  to  have  been  the  exact  height 
of  our  Blessed  Savior,  and  say  they  never  fitted  any 
mortal  man  that  tried  it,  but  he  was  either  taller  or 
shorter;  two  columns  of  the  veil  of  the  Temple  which 
rent  at  his  passion;  the  stone  on  which  they  threw  lots 
for  his  seamless  vesture;  and  the  pillar  on  which  the 
cock  crowed,  after  Peter's  denial;  and,  to  omit  no  fine 
thing,  the  just  length  of  the  Virgin  Mary's  foot  as  it 
seems  her  shoemaker  affirmed!  Here  is  a  sumptuous 
cross,  beset  with  precious  stones,  containing  some  of  the 
VERY  wood  of  the  holy  cross  itself;  with  many  other 
things  of  this  sort:  also  numerous  most  magnificent 
monuments,  especially  those  of  St.  Helena,  of  porphyry; 
Cardinal  Farneze;  Martin  I.,  of  copper;  the  pictures  of 
Mary  Magdalen,  Martin  V.,  Laurentius  Valla,  etc.,  are  of 
Gaetano;  the  Nunciata,  designed  by  M.  Angelo;  and  the 
great  crucifix  of  Sermoneta.  In  a  chapel  at  one  end  of 
the  porch  is  a  statue  of  Henry  IV.  of  France,  in  brass, 
standing  in  a  dark  hole,  and  so  has  done  many  years; 
perhaps  from  not  believing  him  a  thorough  proselyte. 
The  two  famous  CEcumenical  Councils  were  celebrated 
in  this  Church  by  Pope  Simachus,  Martin  I.,  Stephen, 
etc. 

Leaving  this  venerable  church  (for  in  truth  it  has  a 
certain  majesty  in  it),  we  passed  through  a  fair  and  large 
hospital  of  good  architecture,  having  some  inscriptions 
put  up  by  Barberini,  the  late  Pope's  nephew.  We  then 
went  by  St.  Sylvia,  where  is  a  noble  statue  of  St.  Greg- 
ory P.,  begun  by  M.  Angelo;  a  St.  Andrew,  and  the 
bath  of  St.  Cecilia.  In  this  church  are  some  rare  paint- 
ings, especially  that  story  on  the  wall  of  Guido  Reni. 
Thence  to  St.  Giovanni  e  Paula,  where  the  friars  are 
reputed  to  be  great  chemists.  The  choir,  roof,  and  paint- 
ings in  the  tribuna  are  excellent. 

Descending  the  Mons  Caelius,  we  came  against  the  ves- 
tiges of  the  Palazzo  Maggiore,  heretofore  the  Golden 
House  of  Nero;  now  nothing  but  a  heap  of  vast  and 
confused  ruins,  to  show  what  time  and  the  vicissitude  of 
human  things  does  change  from  the  most  glorious  and 
magnificent  to  the  most  deformed  and  confused.  We 
next  went  into  St.  Sebastian's  Church,  which  has  a  hand- 
some front:  then  we  passed  by  the  place  where  Romulus 
and    Remus    were    taken   up   by    Faustulus,  the    Forum 


i644  JOHN    EVELYN  127 

Romanum,  and  so  by  the  edge  of  the  Mons  Palatinus; 
where  we  saw  the  ruins  of  Pompey's  house,  and  the 
Church  of  St.  Anacletus ;  and  so  into  the  Circus  Maximus, 
heretofore  capable  of  containing  a  hundred  and  sixty 
thousand  spectators,  but  now  all  one  entire  heap  of  rub- 
bish, part  of  it  converted  into  a  garden  of  pot  herbs. 
We  concluded  this  evening  with  hearing  the  rare  voices 
and  music  at  the  Chiesa  Nova. 

2 1  St  November,  1644.  I  was  carried  to  see  a  great 
virtuoso,  Cavali^ro  Pozzo,  who  showed  us  a  rare  collection 
of  all  kind  of  antiquities,  and  a  choice  library,  over 
which  are  the  effigies  of  most  of  our  late  men  of  polite 
literature.  He  had  a  great  collection  of  the  antique 
basso-relievos  about  Rome,  which  this  curious  man  had 
caused  to  be  designed  in  several  folios :  many  fine  medals ; 
the  stone  which  Pliny  calls  Enhydros;  it  had  plainly  in 
it  the  quantity  of  half  a  spoonful  of  water,  of  a  yellow 
pebble  color,  of  the  bigness  of  a  walnut.  A  stone  paler 
than  an  amethyst,  which  yet  he  affirmed  to  be  the  true 
carbuncle,  and  harder  than  a  diamond;  it  was  set  in  a 
ring,  without  foil,  or  anything  at  the  bottom,  so  as  it 
was  transparent,  of  a  gfreenish  yellow,  more  lustrous 
than  a  diamond.  He  had  very  pretty  things  painted  on 
crimson  velvet,  designed  in  black,  and  shaded  and  height- 
ened with  white,  set  in  frames;  also  a  number  of  choice 
designs  and  drawings. 

Hence  we  walked  to  the  Suburra  and  -^rarium  Satumi, 
where  yet  remain  some  ruins  and  an  inscription.  From 
thence  to  St.  Pietro  in  vinctilis,  one  of  the  seven  churches 
on  the  Esquiline,  an  old  and  much-frequented  place  of 
great  devotion  for  the  relics  there,  especially  the  bodies 
of  the  seven  Maccabean  brethren,  which  lie  under  the 
altar.  On  the  wall  is  a  St.  Sebastian,  of  mosaic,  after 
the  Greek  manner:  but  what  I  chiefly  regarded  was,  that 
noble  sepulchre  of  Pope  Julius  II.,  the  work  of  M.  Angelo; 
with  that  never-sufficiently-to-be-admired  statue  of  Moses, 
in  white  marble,  and  those  of  Vita  Contemplativa  and 
Activa,  by  the  same  incomparable  hand.  To  this  church 
belongs  a  monastery,  in  the  court  of  whose  cloisters  grow 
two  tall  and  very  stately  palm  trees.  Behind  these,  we 
walked  a  turn  among  the  Baths  of  Titus,  admiring  the 
strange  and  prodigious  receptacles  for  water,  which  the 
vulgar  call  the  Setti  Sali,  now  all  in  heaps. 


128  DIARY   OF  ROME 

2  2d  November,  1644.  Was  the  solemn  and  greatest 
ceremony  of  all  the  State  Ecclesiastical,  viz,  the  proces- 
sion of  the  Pope  (Innocent  X.)  to  St.  John  di  Laterano, 
which,  standing  on  the  steps  of  Ara  Cell,  near  the  Cap- 
itol, I  saw  pass  in  this  manner:  —  First  went  a  guard  of 
Switzers  to  make  way,  and  divers  of  the  avant  guard  of 
horse  carrying  lances.  Next  followed  those  who  carried 
the  robes  of  the  Cardinals,  two  and  two;  then  the  Cardi- 
nals  mace  bearers ;  the  caudatari,  on  mules ;  the  masters 
of  their  horse;  the  Pope's  barber,  tailor,  baker,  gardener, 
and  other  domestic  officers,  all  on  horseback,  in  rich  liv- 
eries; the  squires  belonging  to  the  Guard;  five  men  in 
rich  liveries  led  five  noble  Neapolitan  horses,  white  as 
snow,  covered  to  the  ground  with  trappings  richly  em- 
broidered ;  which  is  a  service  paid  by  the  King  of  Spain  for 
the  kingdoms  of  Naples  and  Sicily,  pretended  feudatories 
to  the  Pope;  three  mules  of  exquisite  beauty  and  price, 
trapped  in  crimson  velvet;  next  followed  three  rich  lit- 
ters with  mules,  the  litters  empty;  the  master  of  the 
horse  alone,  with  his  squires ;  five  trumpeters ;  the  armerieri 
estra  muros;  the  fiscal  and  consistorial  advocates;  capel- 
lani.  camerieri  de  honore^  cubiculari  and  chamberlains, 
called  secreti. 

Then  followed  four  other  camerieri,  with  four  caps  of 
the  dignity-pontifical,  which  were  Cardinals'  hats  carried 
on  staves;  four  trumpets;  after  them  a  number  of  noble 
Romans  and  gentlemen  of  quality,  very  rich,  and  followed 
by  innumerable  staffi^ri  and  pages ;  the  secretaries  of  the 
chancellaria,  abbreviatori-accoliti  in  their  long  robes,  and 
on  mules ;  auditori  di  rota;  the  dean  of  the  rdti  and  mas- 
ter of  the  sacred  palace,  on  mules,  with  grave  but  rich 
footclothes,  and  in  flat  episcopal  hats;  then  went  more 
of  the  Roman  and  other  nobility  and  courtiers,  with 
divers  pages  in  most  rich  liveries  on  horseback ;  fourteen 
drums  belonging  to  the  Capitol;  the  marshals  with  their 
staves;  the  two  syndics;  the  conservators  of  the  city,  in 
robes  of  crimson  damask;  the  knight-gonfalonier  and 
prior  of  the  R.  R.,  in  velvet  toques;  six  of  his  Holiness's 
mace  bearers ;  then  the  captain,  or  governor,  of  the  Castle 
of  St.  Angelo,  upon  a  brave  prancer;  the  governor  of 
the  city;  on  both  sides  of  these  two  long  ranks  of  Switz- 
ers, the  masters  of  the  ceremonies;  the  cross  bearer  on 
horseback,  with  two  priests  at  each  hand  on  foot ;  pages, 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  1^ 

footmen,  and  guards,  in  abundance.  Then  came  the 
Pope  himself,  carried  in  a  litter,  or  rather  open  chair,  of 
crimson  velvet,  richly  embroidered,  and  borne  by  two 
stately  mules;  as  he  went  he  held  up  two  fingers,  bless- 
ing the  multitude  who  were  on  their  knees,  or  looking 
out  of  their  windows  and  houses,  with  loud  vivas  and 
acclamations  of  felicity  to  their  new  Prince,  This  chair 
was  followed  by  the  master  of  his  chamber,  cup  bearer, 
secretary,  and  physician ;  then  came  the  Cardinal-Bishops, 
Cardinal- Priests,  Cardinal-Deacons,  Patriarchs,  Arch- 
bishops, and  Bishops,  all  in  their  several  and  distinct 
habits,  some  in  red,  others  in  green  flat  hats  with  tassels, 
all  on  gallant  mules  richly  trapped  with  velvet,  and  led 
by  their  servants  in  gi^eat  state  and  multitudes;  after 
them,  the  apostolical  protonotary,  auditor,  treasurer,  and 
referendaries ;  lastly,  the  trumpets  of  the  rear  guard,  two 
pages  of  arms  in  helmets  with  feathers,  and  carrying 
lances ;  two  captains ;  the  pontifical  standard  of  the  Church ; 
the  two  alfieri^  or  comets,  of  the  Pope's  light  horse,  who 
all  followed  in  armor  and  carrying  lances;  which,  with 
innumerable  rich  coaches,  litters,  and  people,  made  up 
the  procession.  What  they  did  at  St.  John  di  Laterano, 
I  could  not  see,  by  reason  of  the  prodigious  crowd;  so  I 
spent  most  of  the  day  in  \'iewing  the  two  triumphal 
arches  which  had  been  purposely  erected  a  few  days  be- 
fore, and  till  now  covered ;  the  one  by  the  Duke  of  Parma, 
in  the  Foro  Romano,  the  other  by  the  Jews  in  the  Capi- 
tol, with  flattering  inscriptions.  They  were  of  excellent 
architecture,  decorated  with  statues  and  abundance  of 
ornaments  proper  for  the  occasion,  since  they  were  but 
temporary,  and  made  up  of  boards,  cloth,  etc.,  painted 
and  framed  on  the  sudden,  but  as  to  outward  appear- 
ance, solid  and  very  stately.  The  night  ended  with  fire- 
works. What  I  saw  was  that  which  was  built  before  the 
Spanish  Ambassador's  house,  in  the  Piazza  del  Trinita, 
and  another,  before  that  of  the  French.  The  first  ap- 
peared to  be  a  mighty  rock,  bearing  the  Pope's  Arms,  a 
dragon,  and  divers  figures,  which  being  set  on  fire  by  one 
who  flung  a  rocket  at  it,  kindled  immediately,  yet  pre- 
serving the  figure  both  of  the  rock  and  statues  a  very 
long  time;  insomuch  as  it  was  deemed  ten  thousand  re- 
ports of  squibs  and  crackers  spent  themselves  in  order. 
That  before  the  French  Ambassador's  Palace  was  a  Diana 
9 


130  DIARY  OF  rome 

drawn  in  a  chariot  by  her  dogs,  with  abundance  of  other 
figures  as  large  as  the  life,  which  played  with  fire  in  the 
same  manner.  In  the  meantime,  the  windows  of  the 
whole  city  were  set  with  tapers  put  into  lanterns,  or 
sconces,  of  several  colored  oiled  paper,  that  the  wind 
might  not  annoy  them;  this  rendered  a  most  glorious 
show.  Besides  these,  there  were  at  least  twenty  other 
fireworks  of  vast  charge  and  rare  art  for  their  invention 
before  divers  Ambassadors,  Princes,  and  Cardinals'  Pal- 
aces, especially  that  on  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  being 
a  pyramid  of  lights,  of  great  height,  fastened  to  the  ropes 
and  cables  which  support  the  standard  pole.  The  streets 
were  this  night  as  light  as  day,  full  of  bonfires,  cannon 
roaring,  music  playing,  fountains  running  wine,  in  all 
excess  of  joy  and  triumph. 

23d  November,  1644.  I  went  to  the  Jesuits'  College 
again,  the  front  whereof  gives  place  to  few  for  its 
architecture,  most  of  its  ornaments  being  of  rich  marble. 
It  has  within  a  noble  portico  and  court,  sustained  by 
stately  columns,  as  is  the  corridor  over  the  portico,  at 
the  sides  of  which  are  the  schools  for  arts  and  sciences, 
which  are  here  taught  as  at  the  University.  Here  I  heard 
Father  Athanasius  Kircher  upon  a  part  of  Euclid,  which 
he  expounded.  To  this  joins  a  glorious  and  ample  church 
for  the  students ;  a  second  is  not  fully  finished ;  and  there 
are  two  noble  libraries,  where  I  was  showed  that  famous 
wit  and  historian,  Famianus  Strada.  Hence  we  went  to 
the  house  of  Hippolito  Vitellesco  (afterward  bibliothecary 
of  the  Vatican  library),  who  showed  us  one  of  the  best 
collections  of  statues  in  Rome,  to  which  he  frequently 
talks  as  if  they  were  living,  pronouncing  now  and  then 
orations,  sentences,  and  verses,  sometimes  kissing  and 
embracing  them.  He  has  a  head  of  Brutus  scarred  in 
the  face  by  order  of  the  Senate  for  killing  Julius; 
this  is  much  esteemed.  Also  a  Minerva,  and  others  of 
great  value.  This  gentleman  not  long  since  purchased 
land  in  the  kingdom  of  Naples,  in  hope,  by  digging  the 
ground,  to  find  more  statues;  which  it  seems  so  far  suc- 
ceeded, as  to  be  much  more  worth  than  the  purchase. 
We  spent  the  evening  at  the  Chiesa  Nova,  where  was 
excellent  music;  but,  before  that  began,  the  courteous 
fathers  led  me  into  a  nobly  furnished  library,  contiguous 
to  their  most  beautiful  convent. 


i644  JOHN   EVELYN  131 

28th  November,  1644.  I  went  to  see  the  garden  and 
house  of  the  Aldobrandini,  now  Cardinal  Borghese's. 
This  palace  is,  for  architecture,  magnificence,  pomp,  and 
state,  one  of  the  most  considerable  about  the  city.  It 
has  four  fronts,  and  a  noble  piazza  before  it.  Within 
the  courts,  under  arches  supported  by  marble  columns, 
are  many  excellent  statues.  Ascending  the  stairs,  there 
is  a  rare  figure  of  Diana,  of  white  marble.  The  St. 
Sebastian  and  Hermaphrodite  are  of  stupendous  art. 
For  paintings,  our  Savior's  Head,  by  Correggio;  several 
pieces  of  Raphael,  some  of  which  are  small;  some  of 
Bassano  Veronese ;  the  Leda,  and  two  admirable  Venuses, 
are  of  Titian's  pencil;  so  is  the  Psyche  and  Cupid;  the 
head  of  St.  John,  borne  by  Herodias;  two  heads  of 
Albert  Durer,  very  exquisite.  We  were  shown  here  a  fine 
cabinet  and  tables  of  Florence  work  in  stone.  In  the 
gardens  are  many  fine  fountains,  the  walls  covered  with 
citron  trees,  which,  being  rarely  spread,  invest  the  stone 
work  entirely;  and,  toward  the  street,  at  a  back  gate, 
the  port  is  so  handsomely  clothed  with  ivy  as  much 
pleased  me.  About  this  palace  are  many  noble  antique 
bassi-relievi :  two  especially  are  placed  on  the  gfround, 
representing  armor,  and  other  military  furniture  of  the 
Romans;  beside  these,  stand  about  the  garden  numer- 
ous rare  statues,  altars,  and  urns.  Above  all  for  an- 
tiquity and  curiosity  (as  being  the  only  rarity  of  that 
nature  now  known  to  remain)  is  that  piece  of  old  Roman 
painting  representing  the  Roman  Sponsalia,  or  celebration 
of  their  marriage,  judged  to  be  1,400  years  old,  yet  are 
the  colors  very  lively,  and  the  design  very  entire,  though 
found  deep  in  the  ground.  For  this  morsel  of  painting's 
sake  only,  it  is  said  the  Borghesi  purchased  the  house, 
because  this  being  on  a  wall  in  a  kind  of  banqueting 
house  in  the  garden,  could  not  be  removed,  but  passes 
with  the  inheritance. 

29th  November,  1644.  I  a  second  time  visited  the 
Medicean  Palace,  being  near  my  lodging,  the  more  ex- 
actly to  have  a  view  of  the  noble  collections  that  adorn 
it,  especially  the  bassi-relievi  and  antique  friezes  inserted 
about  the  stone  work  of  the  house.  The  Saturn,  of  metal, 
standing  in  the  portico,  is  a  rare  piece ;  so  is  the  Jupiter 
and  Apollo,  in  the  hall.  We  were  now  led  into  those 
rooms  above   we  could  not  see  before,  full  of  incompar- 


132  DIARY   OF  ROME 

able  statues  and  antiquities ;  above  all,  and  haply  prefer- 
able to  any  in  the  world,  are  the  Two  Wrestlers,  for  the 
inextricable  mixture  with  each  other's  arms  and  legs  is 
stupendous.  In  the  great  chamber  is  the  Gladiator,  whet- 
ting a  knife;  but  the  Venus  is  without  parallel,  being 
the  masterpiece  of  one  whose  name  you  see  graven  under 
it  in  old  Greek  characters ;  nothing  in  sculpture  ever  ap- 
proached this  miracle  of  art.  To  this  add  Marcius,  Gany- 
mede, a  little  Apollo  playing  on  a  pipe;  some  relievi 
incrusted  on  the  palace  walls ;  and  an  antique  vas  of 
marble,  near  six  feet  high.  Among  the  pictures  may  be 
mentioned  the  Magdalen  and  St.  Peter,  weeping.  I  pass 
over  the  cabinets  and  tables  of  pietra  commessa,  being 
the  proper  invention  of  the  Florentines.  In  one  of  the 
chambers  is  a  whimsical  chair,  which  folded  into  so  many 
varieties,  as  to  turn  into  a  bed,  a  bolster,  a  table,  or  a 
couch.  I  had  another  walk  in  the  garden,  where  are  two 
huge  vases,  or  baths  of  stone. 

I  went  further  up  the  hill  to  the  Pope's  Palaces  at 
Monte  Cavallo,  where  I  now  saw  the  garden  more  exactly, 
and  found  it  to  be  one  of  the  most  magnificent  and  pleas- 
ant in  Rome.  I  am  told  the  gardener  is  annually  al- 
lowed 2,000  scudi  for  the  keeping  of  it.  Here  I  observed 
hedges  of  myrtle  above  a  man's  height;  others  of  laurel, 
oranges,  nay,  of  ivy  and  juniper;  the  close  walks,  and 
rustic  grotto;  a  crypt,  of  which  the  laver,  or  basin,  is 
of  one  vast,  entire,  antique  porphyry,  and  below  this 
flows  a  plentiful  cascade ;  the  steps  of  the  grotto  and  the 
roofs  being  of  rich  Mosiac.  Here  are  hydraulic  organs, 
a  fish  pond,  and  an  ample  bath.  From  hence,  we  went 
to  taste  some  rare  Greco;  and  so  home. 

Being  now  pretty  weary  of  continual  walking,  I  kept 
within,  for  the  most  part,  till  the  6th  of  December;  and, 
during  this  time,  I  entertained  one  Signor  Alessandro, 
who  gave  me  some  lessons  on  the  theorbo. 

The  next  excursion  was  over  the  Tiber,  which  I  crossed 
in  a  ferry-boat,  to  see  the  Palazzo  di  Ghisi,  standing  in 
Transtevere,  fairly  built,  but  famous  only  for  the  paint- 
ing a  fresco  on  the  volto  of  the  portico  toward  the  garden ; 
the  story  is  the  Amours  of  Cupid  and  Psyche,  by  the 
hand  of  the  celebrated  Raphael  d'Urbino.  Here  you  al- 
ways see  painters  designing  and  copying  after  it,  being 
esteemed    one    of   the    rarest   pieces   of   that   art   in   the 


1644  JOHN   EVELYN  133 

world;  and  with  great  reason.  I  must  not  omit  that  in- 
comparable table  of  Galatea  (as  I  remember),  so  care- 
fully preserved  in  the  cupboard  at  one  of  the  ends  of  this 
walk,  to  protect  it  from  the  air,  being  a  most  lively 
painting.  There  are  likewise  excellent  things  of  Baldas- 
sare,  and  others. 

Thence  we  went  to  the  noble  house  of  the  Duke  of 
Bracciano,  fairly  built,  with  a  stately  court  and  fountain. 

Next,  we  walked  to  St.  Mary's  Church,  where  was  the 
Taberna  Meritoria,  where  the  old  Roman  soldiers  received 
their  triumphal  garland,  which  they  ever  after  wore. 
The  high  altar  is  very  fair,  adorned  with  columns  of 
porphyry:  here  is  also  some  mosaic  work  about  the  choir, 
and  the  Assumption  is  an  esteemed  piece.  It  is  said 
that  this  church  was  the  first  that  was  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin  at  Rome.  In  the  opposite  piazza  is  a  very  sump- 
tuous fountain. 

12th  December,  1644.  I  went  again  to  St.  Peter's  to 
see  the  chapels,  churches,  and  grots  under  the  whole 
church  (like  our  St.  Faith's  under  Paul's),  in  which  lie 
interred  a  multitude  of  Saints,  Martyrs,  and  Popes; 
among  them  our  country^man,  Adrian  IV.,  (Nicholas 
Brekespere)  in  a  chest  of  porphyry;  Sir  J.  Chrysostom; 
Petronella;  the  heads  of  St.  James  minor,  St.  Luke,  St. 
Sebastian,  and  our  Thomas  k  Becket;  a  shoulder  of  St. 
Christopher;  an  arm  of  Joseph  of  Arimathea;  Longinus; 
besides  134  more  bishops,  soldiers,  princes,  scholars, 
cardinals,  kings,  emperors,  their  wives;  too  long  to  par- 
ticularize. 

Hence  we  walked  into  the  cemetery,  called  Campo 
Santo,  the  earth  consisting  of  several  ship-loads  of  mold, 
transported  from  Jerusalem,  which  consumes  a  carcass 
in  twenty-four  hours.  To  this  joins  that  rare  hospital, 
where  once  was  Nero's  circus ;  the  next  to  this  is  the  In- 
quisition-house and  prison,  the  inside  whereof,  I  thank 
God,  I  was  not  curious  to  see.  To  this  joins  His  Holi- 
ness's  Horsegnards. 

On  Christmas-eve,  I  went  not  to  bed,  being  desirous 
of  seeing  the  many  extraordinary  ceremonies  performed 
then  in  their  churches,  at  midnight  masses  and  sermons. 
I  walked  from  church  to  church  the  whole  night  in  ad- 
miration at  the  multitude  of  scenes  and  pageantry  which 
the  friars  had  with  much   industry  and   craft   set  out,  to 


134  DIARY   OF  rome 

catch  the  devout  women  and  superstitious  sort  of  people, 
who  never  parted  without  dropping  some  money  into  a 
vessel  set  on  purpose;  but  especially  observable  was  the 
puppetry  in  the  Church  of  the  Minerva,  representing  the 
Nativity.  I  thence  went  and  heard  a  sermon  at  the  Apol- 
linare;  by  which  time  it  was  morning.  On  Christmas- 
day  his  Holiness  sang  mass,  the  artillery  of  St.  Angelo 
went  off,  and  all  this  day  was  exposed  the  cradle  of  our 
Lord. 

29th  December,  1644.  We  were  invited  by  the  English 
Jesuits  to  dinner,  being  their  great  feast  of  Thomas  [k 
Becket]  of  Canterbury.  We  dined  in  their  common  re- 
fectory, and  afterward  saw  an  Italian  comedy  acted  by 
their  alumni  before  the  Cardinals. 

January,  1645.  We  saw  pass  the  new  officers  of  the 
people  of  Rome;  especially,  for  their  noble  habits  were 
most  conspicuous,  the  three  Consuls,  now  called  Con- 
servators, who  take  their  places  in  the  Capitol,  having 
been  sworn  the  day  before  between  the  hands  of  the 
Pope.  We  ended  the  day  with  the  rare  music  at  the 
Chiesa  Nova. 

6th  January,  1645.  Was  the  ceremony  of  our  Savior's 
baptism  in  the  Church  of  St.  Athanasius,  and  at  Ara 
Celi  was  a  great  procession,  del  Bambino,  as  they  call  it, 
where  were  all  the  magistrates,  and  a  wonderful  con- 
course of  people. 

7th  January,  1645.  A  sermon  was  preached  to  the 
Jews,  at  Ponte  Sisto,  who  are  constrained  to  sit  till  the 
hour  is  done;  but  it  is  with  so  much  malice  in  their 
countenances,  spitting,  humming,  coughing,  and  motion, 
that  it  is  almost  impossible  they  should  hear  a  word 
from  the  preacher.     A  conversion  is  very  rare, 

14th  January,  1645.  The  heads  of  St.  Peter  and  St. 
Paul  are  exposed  at  St.  John  Laterano. 

15th  January,  1645.  The  zitelle,  or  young  wenches, 
which  are  to  have  portions  given  them  by  the  Pope,  being 
poor,  and  to  marry  them,  walked  in  procession  to  St. 
Peter's,  where  the  Veronica  was  shown. 

I  went  to  the  Ghetto,  where  the  Jews  dwell  as  in  a 
suburb  by  themselves;  being  invited  by  a  Jew  of  my 
acquaintance  to  see  a  circumcision.  I  passed  by  the 
Piazza  Judea,  where  their  seraglio  begins;  for,  being 
environed  with   walls,    they  are  locked  up  every  night. 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  135 

In  this  place  remains  yet  part  of  a  stately  fabric,  which 
my  Jew  told  me  had  been  a  palace  of  theirs  for  the 
ambassador  of  their  nation,  when  their  country  was  sub- 
ject to  the  Romans.  Being  led  through  the  Synagogue 
into  a  private  house,  I  found  a  world  of  people  in  a 
chamber:  by  and  by  came  an  old  man,  who  prepared 
and  laid  in  order  divers  instruments  brought  by  a  little 
child  of  about  seven  years  old  in  a  box.  These  the  man 
laid  in  a  silver  basin;  the  knife  was  much  like  a  short 
razor  to  shut  into  the  half.  Then  they  burnt  some  in- 
cense in  a  censer,  which  perfumed  the  room  all  the 
while  the  ceremony  was  performing.  In  the  basin  was 
a  little  cap  made  of  white  paper  like  a  capuchin's  hood, 
not  bigger  than  the  finger:  also  a  paper  of  a  red  astrin- 
gent powder,  I  suppose  of  bole;  a  small  instrument  of 
silver,  cleft  in  the  middle  at  one  end,  to  take  up  the 
prepuce  withal;  a  fine  linen  cloth  wrapped  up.  These 
being  all  in  order,  the  women  brought  the  infant 
swaddled,  out  of  another  chamber,  and  delivered  it  to 
the  Rabbi,  who  carried  and  presented  it  before  an  altar, 
or  cupboard,  dressed  up,  on  which  lay  the  five  Books  of 
Moses,  and  the  Commandments,  a  little  unrolled.  Before 
this,  with  profound  reverence,  and  mumbling  a  few 
words,  he  waved  the  child  to  and  fro  awhile;  then  he 
delivered  it  to  another  Rabbi,  who  sat  all  this  time 
upon  a  table.  While  the  ceremony  was  performing,  all 
the  company  fell  singing  a  Hebrew  hymn,  in  a  barbarous 
tone,  waving  themselves  to  and  fro;  a  ceremony  they 
observe  in  all  their  devotions. —  The  Jews  in  Rome  all 
wear  yellow  hats,  live  only  upon  brokage  and  usury, 
very  poor  and  despicable,  beyond  what  they  are  in  other 
territories  of  Princes  where  they  are  permitted. 

1 8th  January,  1645.  I  went  to  see  the  Pope's  Palace, 
the  Vatican,  where  he  for  the  most  part  keeps  his  Court. 
It  was  first  built  by  Pope  Symmachus,  and  since  augmented 
to  a  vast  pile  of  building  by  his  successors.  That  part  of 
it  added  by  Sextus  V.  is  most  magnificent.  This  leads  us 
into  divers  terraces  arched  sub  dio,  painted  by  Raphael 
with  the  histories  of  the  Bible,  so  esteemed,  that  artists 
come  from  all  parts  of  Europe  to  make  their  studies  from 
these  designs.  The  foliage  and  grotesque  about  some  of 
the  compartments  are  admirable.  In  another  room  are 
represented  at  large,  maps  and  plots  of  most  countries  in 


136  DIARY   OF  ROME 

the  world,  in  vast  tables,  with  brief  descriptions.  The 
stairs  which  ascend  out  of  St.  Peter's  portico  into  the 
first  hall,  are  rarely  contrived  for  ease;  these  lead  into 
the  hall  of  Gregory  XIII.,  the  walls  whereof,  half  way  to 
the  roof,  are  incrusted  with  most  precious  marbles  of 
various  colors  and  works.  So  is  also  the  pavement  inlaid 
work;  but  what  exceeds  description  is,  the  volta,  or  roof 
itself,  which  is  so  exquisitely  painted,  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  for  the  skillfuUest  eyes  to  discern  whether  it  be 
the  work  of  the  pencil  upon  a  flat,  or  of  a  tool  cut  deep 
in  stone.  The  Rota  dentata,  in  this  admirable  perspec- 
tive, on  the  left  hand  as  one  goes  out,  the  Setella,  etc., 
are  things  of  art  incomparable.  Certainly  this  is  one  of 
the  most  superb  and  royal  apartments  in  the  world,  much 
too  beautiful  for  a  guard  of  gigantic  Switzers,  who  do 
nothing  but  drink  and  play  at  cards  in  it.  Going  up  these 
stairs  is  a  painting  of  St  Peter,  walking  on  the  sea 
toward  our  Savior. 

Out  of  this  I  went  into  another  hall,  just  before  the 
chapel,  called  the  Skla  del  Conclave,  full  of  admirable 
paintings;  among  others  is  the  Assassination  of  Coligni, 
the  great  [Protestant]  French  Admiral,  murdered  by  the 
Duke  of  Guise,  in  the  Parisian  massacre  at  the  nuptials 
of  Henry  IV.  with  Queen  Margaret;  under  it  is  written, 
*  Coligni  et  sociorum  ccedes :  *^  on  the  other  side,  *  Rex  Coligi 
necem  prohat.  * 

There  is  another  very  large  picture,  under  which  is 
inscribed : 

^^ Alexander  Pafa  III.,  Frederici  Primi  Imferatoris  iram  et  im- 
fetum  ftigiens,  ahdidit  se  Venetijs;  cognitum  et  cl  senatu  j^erhonorifich 
susceptum,  Othone  Imperatoris  filio  navali  prcelio  victo  captoq;  Freder- 
icus,  pace  facta,  supplex  adorat;  fidem  et  obedtentiam  pollicitus.  Ita 
Pontifici sua  dignitas  Venet.  Reip.  beneficio  restituta  MCLXXVIII.^'** 

This  inscription  I  the  rather  took  notice  of,  because 
Urban  VIII.  had  caused  it  to  be  blotted  out  during  the 
difference  between  him  and  that  State;  but  it  was  now 
restored  and  refreshed  by  his  successor,  to  the  great  honor 

*Pope  Alexander  III.,  flying  from  the  wrath  and  violence  of  the 
Emperor  Frederick  I.,  took  shelter  at  Venice,  where  he  was  acknowl- 
edged, and  most  honorably  received  by  the  Senate.  The  Emperor's 
son,  Otho,  being  conquered  and  taken  in  a  naval  battle,  the  Emperor, 
having  made  peace,  became  a  suppliant  to  the  Pope,  promising  fealty 
and  obedience.  Thus  his  dignity  was  restored  to  the  Pontiff,  by  the 
aid  of  the  Republic  of  Venice,  mclxxviii. 


1 645  JOHN   EVELYN  137 

of  the  Venetians.  The  Battle  of  Lepanto  is  another  fair 
piece  here. 

Now  we  came  into  the  Pope's  chapel,  so  much  cele- 
brated for  the  Last  Judgment  painted  by  M.  Angelo 
Buonarotti.  It  is  a  painting  in  fresco,  upon  a  dead  wall 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  chapel,  just  over  the  high  altar, 
of  a  vast  design  and  miraculous  fancy,  considering  the 
multitude  of  naked  figures  and  variety  of  posture.  The 
roof  also  is  full  of  rare  work.  Hence,  we  went  into 
the  sacristia  where  were  showed  all  the  most  precious 
vestments,  copes,  and  furniture  of  the  chapel.  One 
priestly  cope,  with  the  whole  suite,  had  been  sent  from 
one  of  our  English  Henr>''s,  and  is  shown  for  a  great 
rarity.  There  were  divers  of  the  Pope's  pantoufles  that 
are  kissed  on  his  foot,  having  rich  jewels  embroidered  on 
the  instep,  covered  with  crimson  velvet;  also  his  tiara, 
or  triple  crown,  divers  miters,  crosiers,  etc.,  all  bestudded 
\sath  precious  stones,  gold,  and  pearl,  to  a  very  gfreat 
value;  a  very  large  cross,  carved  (as  they  affirm)  out  of 
the  holy  wood  itself;  numerous  utensils  of  crystal,  gold, 
agate,  amber,  and  other  costly  materials  for  the  altar. 

We  then  went  into  those  chambers  painted  with  the 
Histories  of  the  burning  of  Rome,  quenched  by  the  pro- 
cession of  a  Crucifix;  the  victory  of  Constantine  over 
Maxentius ;  St.  Peter's  delivery  out  of  Prison ;  all  by  Julio 
Romano,  and  are  therefore  called  the  Painters'  Academy, 
because  you  always  find  some  young  men  or  other  de- 
signing from  them:  a  civility  which  is  not  refused  in 
Italy,  where  any  rare  pieces  of  the  old  and  best  masters 
are  extant,  and  which  is  the  occasion  of  breeding  up 
many  excellent  men  in  that  profession. 

The  Sala  Clementina's  Suffito  is  painted  by  Cherubin 
Alberti,  with  an  ample  landscape  of  Paul    Bril's. 

We  were  then  conducted  into  a  new  gallery,  whose 
sides  were  painted  with  \4ews  of  the  most  famous  places, 
towns,  and  territories  in  Italy,  rarely  done,  and  upon  the 
roof  the  chief  Acts  of  the  Roman  Church  since  St.  Pe- 
ter's pretended  See  there.  It  is  doubtless  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  galleries  in  Europe. —  Out  of  this  we 
came  into  the  Consistory,  a  noble  room,  the  volt  a  painted 
in  grotesque,  as  I  remember.  At  the  upper  end,  is  an 
elevated  throne  and  a  baldachin,  or  canopy  of  state,  for 
his  Holiness,  over  it 


138  DIARY   OP  ROMK 

From  thence,  through  a  very  long  gallery  (longer,  I 
think,  than  the  French  Kings  at  the  Louvre),  but  only 
of  bare  walls,  we  were  brought  into  the  Vatican  Library. 
This  passage  was  now  full  of  poor  people,  to  each  of 
whom,  in  his  passage  to  St.  Peter's,  the  Pope  gave  a 
mezzo  grosse  I  believe  they  were  in  number  near  1,500 
or  2,000  persons. 

This  library  is  the  most  nobly  built,  furnished,  and  beau- 
tified of  any  in  the  world ;  ample,  stately,  light,  and  cheer- 
ful, looking  into  a  most  pleasant  garden.  The  walls  and 
roof  are  painted,  not  with  antiques  and  grotesques,  like 
our  Bodleian  at  Oxford,  but  emblems,  figures,  diagrams, 
and  the  like  learned  inventions,  found  out  by  the  wit 
and  industry  of  famous  men,  of  which  there  are  now 
whole  volumes  extant.  There  were  likewise  the  effigies 
of  the  most  illustrious  men  of  letters  and  fathers  of  the 
church,  with  divers  noble  statues,  in  white  marble,  at 
the  entrance,  viz.,  Hippolytus  and  Aristides.  The  Gen- 
eral Councils  are  painted  on  the  side  walls.  As  to  the 
ranging  of  the  books,  they  are  all  shut  up  in  presses  of 
wainscot,  and  not  exposed  on  shelves  to  the  open  air, 
nor  are  the  most  precious  mixed  among  the  more  ordi- 
nary, which  are  showed  to  the  curious  only;  such  are 
those  two  Virgils  written  on  parchment,  of  more  than  a 
thousand  years  old ;  the  like,  a  Terence ;  the  ^*  Acts  of  the 
Apostles  *  in  golden  capital  letters;  Petrarch's  ^*  Epigrams,* 
written  with  his  own  hand;  also  a  Hebrew  parchment, 
made  up  in  the  ancient  manner,  from  whence  they  were 
first  called  ^*  Volumina  * ,  with  the  Comua ;  but  what  we 
English  do  much  inquire  after,  the  book  which  our  Henry 
Vni.  writ  against  Luther.* 

The  largest  room  is  100  paces  long;  at  the  end  is  the 
gallery  of  printed  books ;  then  the  gallery  of  the  Duke  of 
Urban's  library,  in  which  are  MSS.  of  remarkable  minia- 

*  This  very  book,  by  one  of  those  curious  chances  that  occasionally 
happen,  found  its  way  into  England  some  forty  years  ago,  and  was 
seen  by  the  Editor  of  the  early  edition  of  this  « Diary. »  It  may  be 
worth  remarking  that  wherever,  in  the  course  of  it,  the  title  of  «  De- 
fender of  the  Faith »  was  subjoined  to  the  name  of  Henry,  the 
Pope  had  drawn  his  pen  through  the  title.  The  name  of  the 
King  occurred  in  his  own  handwriting  both  at  the  beginning 
and  end;  and  on  the  binding  were  the  Royal  Arms.  Its  pos- 
sessor had  purchased  it  in  Italy  for  a  few  shillings  from  an  old 
bookstall. 


i64S  JOHN  EVELYN  139 

ture,  and  divers  Chinese,  Mexican,  Samaritan,  Abyssinian, 
and  other  oriental  books. 

In  another  wing  of  the  edifice,  200  paces  long,  were 
all  the  books  taken  from  Heidelberg,  of  which  the  learned 
Gruter,  and  other  great  scholars,  had  been  keepers. 
These  walls  and  volte  are  painted  with  representations  of 
the  machines  invented  by  Domenico  Fontana  for  erection 
of  the  obelisks;  and  the  true  design  of  Mahomet's  sepul- 
chre at  Mecca. 

Out  of  this  we  went  to  see  the  Conclave,  where,  during 
a  vacancy,  the  Cardinals  are  shut  up  till  they  are  agreed 
upon  a  new  election;  the  whole  manner  whereof  was  de- 
scribed to  us. 

Hence  we  went  into  the  Pope's  Armory,  under  the 
library.     Over  the  door  is  this  inscription: 

*  URBANUS    VIII.     LITTERIS    ARMA,    ARMA    LITTERIS.* 

I  hardly  believe  any  prince  in  Europe  is  able  to  show  a 
more  completely  furnished  library  of  Mars,  for  the  quality 
and  quantity,  which  is  40,000  complete  for  horse  and 
foot,  and  neatly  kept.  Out  of  this  we  passed  again  by 
the  long  gallery,  and  at  the  lower  end  of  it  down  a  very 
large  pair  of  stairs,  round,  without  any  steps  as  usually, 
but  descending  with  an  evenness  so  ample  and  easy,  that 
a  horse-litter,  or  coach,  may  with  ease  be  drawn  up;  the 
sides  of  the  vacuity  are  set  with  columns:  those  at  Am- 
boise,  on  the  Loire,  in  France,  are  something  of  this 
invention,  but  nothing  so  spruce.  By  these,  we  de- 
scended into  the  Vatican  gardens,  called  Belvedere,  where 
entering  first  into  a  kind  of  court,  we  were  showed  those 
incomparable  statues  (so  famed  by  Pliny  and  others)  of 
Laocoon  with  his  three  sons  embraced  by  a  huge  ser- 
pent, all  of  one  entire  Parian  stone,  very  white  and 
perfect,  somewhat  bigger  than  the  life,  the  work  of  those 
three  celebrated  sculptors,  Agesandrus,  Polydorus,  and 
Artemidorus,  Rhodians;  it  was  found  among  the  ruins  of 
Titus's  baths,  and  placed  here.  Pliny  says  this  statue  is 
to  be  esteemed  before  all  pictures  and  statues  in  the 
world;  and  I  am  of  his  opinion,  for  I  never  beheld  any- 
thing of  art  approach  it.  Here  are  also  those  two  famous 
images  of  Nilus  with  the  children  playing  about  him, 
and  that  of  Tiber;  Romulus  and  Remus  with  the  Wolf; 
the  dying  Cleopatra;   the  Venus  and   Cupid,  rare  pieces; 


140  DIARY  OP  ROME 

the  Mercury;  Cybel  Hercules;  Apollo;  Antinous:  most 
of  which  are,  for  defense  against  the  weather,  shut  up 
in  niches  with  wainscot  doors.  We  were  likewise  showed 
the  relics  of  the  Hadrian  Moles,  viz,  the  Pine,  a  vast 
piece  of  metal  which  stood  on  the  summit  of  that  mauso- 
leum; also  a  peacock  of  copper,  supposed  to  have  been 
part  of  Scipio'o  monument. 

In  the  garden  without  this  (which  contains  a  vast  cir- 
cuit of  ground)  are  many  stately  fountains,  especially  two 
casting  water  into  antique  lavers,  brought  from  Titus's 
baths;  some  fair  grots  and  water- works,  that  noble  cas- 
cade where  the  ship  dances,  with  divers  other  pleasant 
inventions,  walks,  terraces,  meanders,  fruit  trees,  and  a 
most  goodly  prospect  over  the  greatest  part  of  the  city. 
One  fountain  under  the  gate  I  must  not  omit,  consisting 
of  three  jettos  of  water  gushing  out  of  the  mouths  or 
proboscides  of  bees  (the  arms  of  the  late  Pope),  because  of 
the  inscription: 

«  Quid  miraris  Apem,  quae  niel  de  Jioribus  haurit? 
Si  tibi  me  Hit  am  gutture  fundit  aquam. » 

23d  January,  1645.  We  went  without  the  walls  of  the 
city  to  visit  St  Paul's,  to  which  place  it  is  said  the 
Apostle  bore  his  own  head  after  Nero  had  caused  it  to 
be  cut  off.  The  church  was  founded  by  the  great  Con- 
stantine;  the  main  roof  is  supported  by  100  vast  columns 
of  marble,  and  the  Mosaic  work  of  the  great  arch  is 
wrought  with  a  very  ancient  story  A°  440;  as  is  likewise 
that  of  the  facciata.  The  gates  are  brass,  made  at  Con- 
stantinopole  in  1070,  as  you  may  read  by  those  Greek  verses 
engraven  on  them.  The  church  is  near  500  feet  long 
and  258  in  breadth,  and  has  five  great  aisles  joined  to  it, 
on  the  basis  of  one  of  whose  columns  is  this  odd  title: 
"  Fl.  Eugenius  Asellus  C.  C.  Prcef.  Urbis  V.  S.  L  reparavit.  *' 
Here  they  showed  us  that  miraculous  Crucifix  which  they 
say  spake  to  St.  Bridget:  and,  just  before  the  Ciborio, 
stand  two  excellent  statues.  Here  are  buried  part  of  the 
bodies  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  Peter.  The  pavement  is  richly 
interwoven  with  precious  Oriental  marbles  about  the  high 
altar,  where  are  also  four  excellent  paintings,  whereof 
one,  representing  the  stoning  of  St.  Stephen,  is  by  the 
hand  of  a  Bolognian  lady,  named  Lavinia.  The  taber- 
nacle on    this   altar  is  of  excellent   architecture,    and  the 


1 645  JOHN  EVELYN  141 

pictures  in  the  Chapel  del  Sacramento  are  of  Lanfranco. 
Divers  other  relics  there  be  also  in  this  venerable  church, 
as  a  part  of  St.  Anna;  the  head  of  the  Woman  of  Samaria; 
the  chain  which  bound  St.  Paul,  and  the  eculeus  used 
in  tormenting  the  primitive  Christians.  The  church 
stands  in  the  Via  Ositensis,  about  a  mile  from  the  walls 
of  the  city,  separated  from  many  buildings  near  it  except 
the  Trie  Fontana,  to  which  (leaving  our  coach)  .we  walked, 
going  over  the  mountain  or  little  rising,  upon  which  story 
says  a  hundred  seventy  and  four  thousand  Christians  had 
been  martyred  by  Maximianus,  Dioclesian,  and  other 
bloody  tyrants.  On  this  stand  St.  Vincent's  and  St. 
Anastasius;  likewise  the  Church  of  St.  Maria  Scala  del 
Cielo,  in  whose  Tribuna  is  a  very  fair  Mosaic  work.  The 
Church  of  the  Trie  Fontana  (as  they  are  called)  is  per- 
fectly well  built,  though  but  small  (whereas  that  of  St. 
Paul  is  but  Gothic),  having  a  noble  cupola  in  the  mid- 
dle; in  this  they  show  the  pillar  to  which  St.  Paul  was 
bound,  when  his  head  was  cut  off,  and  from  whence  it 
made  three  prodigious  leaps,  where  there  immediately 
broke  out  the  three  remaining  fountains,  which  give  de- 
nomination to  this  church.  The  waters  are  reported  to 
be  medicinal :  over  each  is  erected  an  altar  and  a  chained 
ladle,  for  better  tasting  of  the  waters.  That  most  ex- 
cellent picture  of  St.   Peter's  Crucifixion  is  of  Guido. 

25th  January,  1645.  ^  went  again  to  the  Palazzo  Farnese, 
to  see  some  certain  statues  and  antiquities  which,  by  rea- 
son of  the  Major-Domo  not  being  within,  I  could  not 
formerly  obtain.  In  the  hall  stands  that  triumphant 
Colosse  of  one  of  the  family,  upon  three  figures,  a  mod- 
em, but  rare  piece.  About  it  stood  some  Gladiators;  and, 
at  the  entrance  into  one  of  the  first  chambers,  are  two 
cumbent  figures  of  Age  and  Youth,  brought  hither  from 
St.  Peter's  to  make  room  for  the  Longinus  under  the 
cupola.  Here  was  the  statue  of  a  ram  running  at  a  man 
on  horseback,  a  most  incomparable  expression  of  Fury, 
cut  in  stone ;  and  a  table  of  pietra-commessa,  very  curious. 
The  next  chamber  was  all  painted  a  fresco,  by  a  rare 
hand,  as  was  the  carving  in  wood  of  the  ceiling,  which, 
as  I  remember,  was  in  cedar,  as  the  Italian  mode  is,  and 
not  poor  plaster,  as  ours  are;  some  of  them  most  richly 
gilt.  In  a  third  room,  stood  the  famous  Venus,  and  the 
child  Hercules  strangling  a  serpent,  of  Corinthian  brass, 


142  DIARY   OF  ROME 

antique,  on  a  very  curious  basso-relievo ;  the  sacrifice  to 
Priapus;  the  Egyptian  Isis,  in  the  hard,  black  ophite 
stone,  taken  out  of  the  Pantheon,  greatly  celebrated  by 
the  antiquaries:  likewise  two  tables  of  brass,  containing 
divers  old  Roman  laws.  At  another  side  of  this  chamber, 
was  the  statue  of  a  wounded  Amazon  falling  from  her 
horse,  worthy  the  name  of  the  excellent  sculptor,  whoever 
the  artist  was.  Near  this  was  a  bass-relievo  of  a  Baccha- 
nalia, with  a  most  curious  Silenus.  The  fourth  room  was 
totally  environed  with  statues;  especially  observable  was 
that  so  renowned  piece  of  a  Venus  looking  backward  over 
her  shoulder,  and  divers  other  naked  figures,  by  the  old 
Greek  masters.  Over  the  doors  are  two  Venuses,  one  of 
them  looking  on  her  face  in  a  glass,  by  M.  Angelo;  the 
other  is  painted  by  Caracci.  I  never  saw  finer  faces, 
especially  that  under  the  mask,  whose  beauty  and  art  are 
not  to  be  described  by  words.  The  next  chamber  is  also 
full  of  statues;  most  of  them  the  heads  of  Philosophers, 
very  antique.  One  of  the  Caesars  and  another  of  Hanni- 
bal cost  1,200  crowns.  Now  I  had  a  second  view  of  that 
never-to-be-sufl&ciently-admired  gallery,  painted  in  deep 
relievo,  the  work  of  ten  years'  study,  for  a  trifling  reward. 
In  the  wardrobe  above  they  showed  us  fine  wrought  plate, 
porcelain,  mazers  of  beaten  and  solid  gold,  set  with  dia- 
monds, rubies,  and  emeralds;  a  treasure,  especially  the 
workmanship  considered,  of  inestimable  value.  This  is  all 
the  Duke  of  Parma's.  Nothing  seemed  to  be  more  curious 
and  rare  in  its  kind  than  the  complete  service  of  the 
purest  crystal,  for  the  altar  of  the  chapel,  the  very  bell, 
cover  of  a  book,  sprinkler,  etc.,  were  all  of  the  rock,  in- 
comparably sculptured,  with  the  holy  story  in  deep  Levati ; 
thus  was  also  wrought  the  crucifix,  chalice,  vases,  flower- 
pots, the  largest  and  purest  crystal  that  my  eyes  ever 
beheld.  Truly  I  looked  on  this  as  one  of  the  greatest 
curiosities  I  had  seen  in  Rome.  In  another  part  were 
presses  furnished  with  antique  arms,  German  clocks,  per- 
petual motions,  watches,  and  curiosities  of  Indian  works. 
A  very  ancient  picture  of  Pope  Eugenius ;  a  St.  Bernard ; 
and  a  head  of  marble  found  long  since,  supposed  to  be  a 
true  portrait  of  our  Blessed  Savior's  face. 

Hence,  we  went  to  see  Dr.  Gibbs,  a  famous  poet  and 
countryman  of  ours,  who  had  some  intendency  in  an 
hospital    built    on    the   Via   Triumphalis,  called   Christ's 


1045  JOHN   EVELYN  143 

Hospital,  which  he  showed  us.  The  Infirmatory,  where 
the  sick  lay,  was  paved  with  various  colored  marbles, 
and  the  walls  hung  with  noble  pieces;  the  beds  are 
very  fair;  in  the  middle  is  a  stately  cupola,  under  which 
is  an  altar  decked  with  divers  marble  statues,  all  in 
sight  of  the  sick,  who  may  both  see  and  hear  mass,  as 
they  lie  in  their  beds.  The  organs  are  very  fine,  and 
frequently  played  on  to  recreate  the  people  in  pain.  To 
this  joins  an  apartment  destined  for  the  orphans;  and 
there  is  a  school:  the  children  wear  blue,  like  ours  in 
London,  at  an  hospital  of  the  same  appellation.  Here 
are  forty  nurses,  who  give  suck  to  such  children  as  are 
accidentally  found  exposed  and  abandoned.  In  another 
quarter,  are  children  of  a  bigger  growth,  450  in  num- 
ber, who  are  taught  letters.  In  another,  500  girls,  under 
the  tuition  of  divers  religious  matrons,  in  a  monastery, 
as  it  were,  by  itself.  I  was  assured  there  were  at  least 
2,000  more  maintained  in  other  places.  I  think  one 
apartment  had  in  it  near  1,000  beds;  these  are  in  a  very 
long  room,  having  an  inner  passage  for  those  who  at- 
tend, with  as  much  care,  sweetness,  and  conveniency  as 
can  be  imagined,  the  Italians  being  generally  very  neat. 
Under  the  portico,  the  sick  may  walk  out  and  take  the 
air.  Opposite  to  this,  are  other  chambers  for  such  as 
are  sick  of  maladies  of  a  more  rare  and  difficult  cure, 
and  they  have  rooms  apart.  At  the  end  of  the  long 
corridor  is  an  apothecary's  shop,  fair  and  very  well  stored; 
near  which  are  chambers  for  persons  of  better  quality, 
who  are  yet  necessitous.  Whatever  the  poor  bring  is,  at 
their  coming  in,  delivered  to  a  treasurer,  who  makes  an 
inventory,  and  is  accountable  to  them,  or  their  represen- 
tatives if  they  die. 

To  this  building  joins  the  house  of  the  commendator, 
who,  with  his  officers  attending  the  sick,  make  up  ninety 
persons;  besides  a  convent  and  an  ample  church  for  the 
friars  and  priests  who  daily  attend.  The  church  is  ex- 
tremely neat,  and  the  sacristia  is  very  rich.  Indeed  it  is 
altogether  one  of  the  most  pious  and  worthy  foundations 
I  ever  saw.  Nor  is  the  benefit  small  which  divers  young 
physicians  and  chirurgeons  reap  by  the  experience  they 
learn  here  among  the  sick,  to  whom  those  students  have 
free  access.  Hence,  we  ascended  a  very  steep  hill,  near 
the    Port    St.    Pancratio,  to    that    stately  fountain    called 


144  DIARY   OF  Rome 

Acqua  Paula,  being  the  aqueduct  which  Augustus  had 
brought  to  Rome,  now  re-edified  by  Paulus  V. ;  a  rare 
piece  of  architecture,  and  which  serves  the  city  after  a 
journey  of  thirty-five  miles,  here  pouring  itself  into  divers 
ample  lavers,  out  of  the  mouths  of  swans  and  dragons, 
the  arms  of  this  Pope.  Situate  on  a  very  high  mount,  it 
makes  a  most  glorious  show  to  the  city,  especially  when 
the  sun  darts  on  the  water  as  it  gfusheth  out.  The  in- 
scriptions on  it  are: 

^^ Paulus  V.  Romanus  Ponttfex  Oft.  Max.  Aquceductus  ah  Augusta 
Ccesare  extructos,  ceii  longinqua  vetusiate  collafsos,  in  ampliorem  for- 
man  restituit  anno  salutis  M.D.CIX.  Pont.   F.* 

And  toward  the  fields: 

'■^Paulus  V.  Rom.  Pontifex  Oftimus  Maximus,  priori  ductu  longis- 
simi  tern f  oris  injuria pene  diruto,  sublimiorem?* 


[One  or  more  leaves  are  here  wanting  in   Evelyn's   MS.,   descriptive 
of  other  parts  of  Rome,  and  of  his  leaving  the  city.] 

Thence  to  Velletri,  a  town  heretofore  of  the  Volsci, 
where  is  a  public  and  fair  statue  of  P.  Urban  VIII.,  in 
brass,  and  a  stately  fountain  in  the  street.  Here  we  lay 
and  drank  excellent  wine. 

28th  January,  1645.  We  dined  at  Sermonetta,  descend- 
ing all  this  morning  down  a  stony  mountain,  unpleasant, 
yet  full  of  olive  trees;  and,  anon,  pass  a  tower  built  on  a 
rock,  kept  by  a  small  guard  against  the  banditti  who  in- 
fest those  parts,  daily  robbing  and  killing  passengers,  as 
my  Lord  Banbury  and  his  company  found  to  their  cost 
a  little  before.  To  this  gTiard  we  gave  some  money,  and 
so  were  suffered  to  pass,  which  was  still  on  the  Appian 
to  the  Tres  Taberncs  (whither  the  brethren  came  from 
Rome  to  meet  St.  Paul,  Acts,  c.  28) ;  the  ruins  whereof 
are  yet  very  fair,  resembling  the  remainder  of  some  con- 
siderable edifice,  as  may  be  judged  by  the  vast  stones 
and  fairness  of  the  arched  work.  The  country  environ- 
ing this  passage  is  hilly,  but  rich;  on  the  right  hand 
stretches  an  ample  plain,  being  the  Pomptini  Campi.  We 
reposed  this  night  at  Pipemo,  in  the  posthouse  without 
the  town ;  and  here  I  was  extremely  troubled  with  a  sore 
hand,  which  now  began  to  fester,  from  a  mischance  at 
Rome,  upon  my  base,  unlucky,  stiff-necked,  trotting,  car- 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  145 

rion  mule;  which  are  the  most  wretched  beasts  in  the 
world.  In  this  town  was  the  poet  Virgil's  Camilla 
bom. 

The  day  following,  we  were  fain  to  hire  a  strong  con- 
voy of  about  thirty  firelocks,  to  'guard  us  through  the 
cork  woods  (much  infested  with  the  banditti)  as  far  as 
Fossa  Nuova,  where  was  the  Forum  Appii,  and  now 
stands  a  church  with  a  great  monastery,  the  place  where 
Thomas  Aquinas  both  studied  and  lies  buried.  Here  we 
all  alighted,  and  were  most  courteously  received  by  the 
Monks,  who  showed  us  many  relics  of  their  learned  Saint 
and  at  the  high  altar  the  print  forsooth  of  the  mule's 
hoof  which  he  caused  to  kneel  before  the  Host.  The 
church  is  old,  built  after  the  Gothic  manner;  but  the 
place  is  very  agreeably  melancholy.  After  this,  pursuing 
the  same  noble  [Appian]  way  (which  we  had  before  left 
a  little),  we  found  it  to  stretch  from  Capua  to  Rome  it- 
self, and  afterward  as  far  as  Brundusium.  It  was  built 
by  that  famous  Consul,  twenty-five  feet  broad,  every 
twelve  feet  something  ascending  for  the  ease  and  firmer 
footing  of  horse  and  man ;  both  the  sides  are  also  a  little 
raised  for  those  who  travel  on  foot.  The  whole  is  paved 
with  a  kind  of  beach-stone,  and,  as  I  said,  ever  and  anon 
adorned  with  some  old  ruin,  sepulchre,  or  broken  statue. 
In  one  of  these  monuments  PanciroUus  tells  us  that,  in 
the  time  of  Paul  III.,  there  was  found  the  body  of  a 
young  lady,  swimming  in  a  kind  of  bath  of  precious  oil, 
or  liquor,  fresh  and  entire  as  if  she  had  been  living, 
neither  her  face  discolored,  nor  her  hair  disordered;  at 
her  feet  burnt  a  lamp,  which  suddenly  expired  at  the 
opening  of  the  vault;  having  flamed,  as  was  computed, 
now  1,500  years,  by  the  conjecture  that  she  was  Tulliola, 
the  daughter  of  Cicero,  whose  body  was  thus  found,  and 
as  the  inscription  testified.  We  dined  this  day  at  Ter- 
racina,  heretofore  the  famous  Anxur,  which  stands  upon 
a  very  eminent  promontory,  the  Circean  by  name. 
While  meat  was  preparing,  I  went  up  into  the  town, 
and  viewed  the  fair  remainders  of  Jupiter's  Temple,  now 
converted  into  a  church,  adorned  with  most  stately  col- 
umns ;  its  architecture  has  been  excellent,  as  may  be  de- 
duced from  the  goodly  cornices,  moldings,  and  huge 
white  marbles  of  which  it  is  built.  Before  the  portico 
stands  a  pillar  thus  inscribed: 
10 


146  DIARY  OF  fondi 

Jnclyta  Gothorum  Regis  monumenta  vetusta 
Anxuri  hoc  Oculos  exposuere  loco;^'* 

for,  it  seems,  Theodoric  drained  their  marches. 
On  another  more  ancient: 

*•*•  Imp.  CcBsar  Divi  NervcE  Filius  Nerva  Trojanus  Aug.  German- 
icus  Dacicus.  Pontif.  Max.  Trib.  Pop.  xviii.  Imp.  vi.  Cos.  v.  p.  p. 
xviii.     Silues  sud  pecunid  stravit. » 

Meaning  doubtless,  some  part  of  the  Via  Appia.     Then  : 

*  Tit.  Upio.  Aug.  optato  Pontano  Procuratori  et  Prcefect.  CI  as  sis. 
—  7/1  Julius.   T.  Fab.  optatus  ii.  viry> 

Here  is  likewise  a  Columna  Milliaria,  with  something 
engraven  on  it,  but  I  could  not  stay  to  consider  it.  Com- 
ing down  again,  I  went  toward  the  sea-side  to  contem- 
plate that  stupendous  strange  rock  and  promontory, 
cleft  by  hand,  I  suppose,  for  the  better  passage.  Within 
this  is  the  Circean  Cave,  which  I  went  into  a  good  way; 
it  makes  a  dreadful  noise,  by  reason  of  the  roaring  and 
impetuous  waves  continually  assaulting  the  beach,  and 
that  in  an  unusual  manner.  At  the  top,  at  an  excessive 
height,  stands  an  old  and  very  great  castle.  We  arrived 
this  night  at  Fondi,  a  most  dangerous  passage  for  rob- 
bing; and  so  we  passed  by  Galba's  villa,  and  anon  en- 
tered the  kingdom  of  Naples,  where,  at  the  gate,  this 
epigraph  saluted  us:  *•*-  Hospes^  hie  sunt  fines  Regni  Neopol- 
itani;  si  amieus  advents,  pacati  omnia  invenies,  et  malis 
moribus  pulsis,  bonas  leges.^^  The  Via  Appia  is  here  a 
noble  prospect;  having  before  considered  how  it  was  car- 
ried through  vast  mountains  of  rocks  for  many  miles,  by 
most  stupendous  labor:  here  it  is  infinitely  pleasant, 
beset  with  sepulchres  and  antiquities,  full  of  sweet  shrubs 
in  the  environing  hedges.  At  Fondi,  we  had  oranges 
and  citrons  for  nothing,  the  trees  growing  in  every  cor- 
ner, charged  with  fruit. 

29th  January,  1645.  We  descried  Mount  Caecubus,  fa- 
mous for  the  generous  wine  it  heretofore  produced,  and 
so  rode  onward  the  Appian  Way,  beset  with  myrtles,  len- 
tiscuses,  bays,  pomegranates,  and  whole  groves  of  orange 
trees,  and  most  delicious  shrubs,  till  we  came  to  Formi- 
ana  [Formiae],  where  they  showed  us  Cicero's  tomb, 
standing  in  an  olive  grove,  now  a  rude  heap  of  stones 
without  form  or  beauty;  for  here  that  incomparable  ora- 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  147 

tor  was  murdered.  I  shall  never  forget  how  exceedingly 
I  was  delighted  with  the  sweetness  of  this  passage,  the 
sepulchre  mixed  among  all  sorts  of  verdure;  besides 
being  now  come  within  sight  of  the  noble  city,  Cajeta 
[Gaieta],  which  gives  a  surprising  prospect  along  the 
Tyrrhene  Sea,  in  manner  of  a  theater:  and  here  we  be- 
held that  strangely  cleft  rock,  a  frightful  spectacle,  which 
they  say  happened  upon  the  passion  of  our  Blessed  Sa- 
vior; but  the  haste  of  our  procaccio  did  not  suffer  us  to 
dwell  so  long  on  these  objects  and  the  many  antiquities 
of  this  town  as  we  desired. 

At  Formi,  we  saw  Cicero's  grot;  dining  at  Mola,  and 
passing  Sinuessa,  Garigliano  (once  the  city  Mintem),  and 
beheld  the  ruins  of  that  vast  amphitheater  and  aqueduct 
yet  standing;  the  river  Liris,  which  bounded  the  old  La- 
tium,  Falemus,  or  Mons  Massacus,  celebrated  for  its  wine, 
now  named  Garo;  and  this  night  we  lodged  at  a  little 
village  called  St.  Agatha,  in  the  Falemian  Fields,  near 
to  Aurunca  and  Sessa. 

The  next  day.  having  passed  [the  river]  Vultumus,  we 
come  by  the  Torre  di  Francolisi,  where  Hannibal,  in 
danger  from  Fabius  Maximus,  escaped  by  debauching 
his  enemies ;  and  so  at  last  we  entered  the  most  pleasant 
plains  of  Campania,  now  called  Terra  di  Lavoro;  in  very 
truth,  I  think,  the  most  fertile  spot  that  ever  the  sun 
shone  upon.  Here  we  saw  the  slender  ruins  of  the 
once  mighty  Capua,  contending  at  once  both  with  Rome 
and  Carthage,  for  splendor  and  empire,  now  nothing  but 
a  heap  of  rubbish,  except  showing  some  vestige  of  its 
former  magnificence  in  pieces  of  temples,  arches,  theatres, 
columns,  ports,  vaults,  colosses,  etc.,  confounded  together 
by  the  barbarous  Goths  and  Longobards;  there  is, 
however,  a  new  city,  nearer  to  the  road  by  two  miles, 
fairly  raised  out  of  these  heaps.  The  passage  from  this 
town  to  Naples  (which  is  about  ten  or  twelve  English 
post  miles)  is  as  straight  as  a  line,  of  great  breadth, 
fuller  of  travelers  than  I  remember  any  of  our  greatest 
and  most  frequented  roads  near  London;  but,  what  is 
extremely  pleasing,  is  the  great  fertility  of  the  fields, 
planted  with  fruit  trees,  whose  boles  are  serpented  with 
excellent  vines,  and  they  so  exuberant,  that  it  is  com- 
monly reported  one  vine  will  load  five  mules  with  its 
grapes.      What   adds   much    to  the  pleasure  of  the  sight 


148  DIARY  OF  NAPLES 

is,  that  the  vines,  climbing  to  the  summit  of  the  trees, 
reach  in  festoons  and  fruitages  from  one  tree  to  another, 
planted  at  exact  distances,  forming  a  more  delightful 
picture  than  painting  can  describe.  Here  grow  rice, 
canes  for  sugar,  olives,  pomegranates,  mulberries,  citrons, 
oranges,  figs,  and  other  sorts  of  rare  fruits.  About  the 
middle  of  the  way  is  the  town  Aversa,  whither  came 
three  or  four  coaches  to  meet  our  lady  travelers,  of  whom 
we  now  took  leave,  having  been  very  merry  by  the  way 
with  them  and  the  capitdno,  their  gallant. 

31st  January,  1645.  About  noon  we  entered  the  city 
of  Naples,  alighting  at  the  Three  Kings,  where  we  found 
the  most  plentiful  fare  all  the  time  we  were  in  Naples. 
Provisions  are  wonderfully  cheap ;  we  seldom  sat  down  to 
fewer  than  eighteen  or  twenty  dishes  of  exquisite  meat 
and  fruits. 

The  morrow  after  our  arrival,  in  the  afternoon,  we 
hired  a  coach  to  carry  us  about  the  town.  First,  we  went 
to  the  castle  of  St.  Elmo,  built  on  a  very  high  rock, 
whence  we  had  an  entire  prospect  of  the  whole  city, 
which  lies  in  shape  of  a  theatre  upon  the  sea-brink,  with 
all  the  circumjacent  islands,  as  far  as  Capreae,  famous 
for  the  debauched  recesses  of  Tiberius.  This  fort  is 
the  bridle  of  the  whole  city,  and  was  well  stored  and 
garrisoned  with  native  Spaniards.  The  strangeness  of 
the  precipice  and  rareness  of  the  prospect  of  so  many 
magnificent  and  stately  palaces,  churches,  and  monas- 
teries, with  the  Arsenal,  the  Mole,  and  Mount  Vesuvius 
in  the  distance,  all  in  full  command  of  the  eye,  make  it 
one  of  the  richest  landscapes  in  the  world. 

Hence,  we  descended  to  another  strong  castle,  called 
II  Castello  Nuovo,  which  protects  the  shore;  but  they 
would  by  no  entreaty  permit  us  to  go  in;  the  outward 
defense  seems  to  consist  but  in  four  towers,  very  high, 
and  an  exceeding  deep  graff,  with  thick  walls.  Opposite 
to  this  is  the  tower  of  St.  Vincent,  which  is  also 
very  strong. 

Then  we  went  to  the  very  noble  palace  of  the  Vice- 
roy, partly  old,  and  part  of  a  newer  work;  but  we  did 
not  stay  long  here.  Toward  the  evening,  we  took  the 
air  upon  the  Mole,  a  street  on  the  rampart,  or  bank, 
raised  in  the  sea  for  security  of  their  galleys  in  port, 
built  as  that  of  Genoa.     Here  I  observed  a  rich  fountain 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  149 

in  the  middle  of  the  piazza,  and  adorned  with  divers  rare 
statues  of  copper,  representing  the  Sirens,  or  Deities  of 
the  Parthenope,  spouting  large  streams  of  water  into  an 
ample  shell,  all  of  cast  metal,  and  of  great  cost.  This 
stands  at  the  entrance  of  the  Mole,  where  we  met  many 
of  the  nobility  both  on  horseback  and  in  their  coaches 
to  take  the  fresco  from  the  sea,  as  the  manner  is,  it  be- 
ing in  the  most  advantageous  quarter  for  good  air,  de- 
light and  prospect.  Here  we  saw  divers  goodly  horses 
who  handsomely  become  their  riders,  the  Neapolitan  gen- 
tlemen. This  Mole  is  about  500  paces  in  length,  and 
paved  with  a  square  hewn  stone.  From  the  Mole,  we 
ascend  to  a  church  of  great  antiquity,  formerly  sacred  to 
Castor  and  Pollux,  as  the  Greek  letters  carved  on  the 
architrave  and  the  busts  of  their  two  statues  testify.  It 
is  now  converted  into  a  stately  oratory  by  the  Theatines. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  most  magnificent  pile,  and  except 
St.  Peter's  in  Rome,  Naples  exceeds  all  cities  for  stately 
churches  and  monasteries.  We  were  told  that  this  day 
the  blood  of  St.  Januarius  and  his  head  should  be  ex- 
posed, and  so  we  found  it,  but  obtained  not  to  see  the 
miracle  of  the  boiling  of  this  blood.  The  next  we  went 
to  see  was  St.  Peter's,  richly  adorned,  the  chapel  espe- 
cially, where  that  Apostle  said  mass,  as  is  testified  on  the 
wall. 

After  dinner  we  went  to  St.  Dominic,  where  they  showed 
us  the  crucifix  that  is  reported  to  have  said  these  words 
to  St.  Thomas,  *  Ben^  de  me  scripsisti,  Thoma.  *  Hence,  to 
the  Padri  Olivetani,  famous  for  the  monument  of  the 
learned  Alexander-ab- Alexandre. 

We  proceeded,  the  next  day,  to  visit  the  church  of 
Santa  Maria  Maggiore,  where  we  spent  much  time  in  sur- 
veying the  chapel  of  Joh.  Jov.  Pontanus,  and  in  it  the 
several  and  excellent  sentences  and  epitaphs  on  himself, 
wife,  children,  and  friends,  full  of  rare  wit,  and  worthy 
of  recording,  as  we  find  them  in  several  writers.  In  the 
same  chapel  is  shown  an  arm  of  Titus  Livius,  with  this 
epigraph.  '•'•  Titi  Livij  brachiuvi  quod  Anton.  Panortnita 
a  Patavinis  impeiravit^  Jo.  Jovianus  Pontanus  multos  post 
annos  hdc  in  loco  ponendum  curavit.  * 

Climbing  a  steep  hill,  we  came  to  the  monastery  and 
Church  of  the  Carthusians,  from  whence  is  a  most  goodly 
prospect  toward  the  sea  and  city,  the  one  full  of  galleys 


ISO  DIARY  OF  NAPLES 

and  ships,  the  other  of  stately  palaces,  churches,  mon- 
asteries, castles,  gardens,  delicious  fields  and  meadows. 
Mount  Vesuvius  smoking,  the  promontory  of  Minerva 
and  Misenum,  Capreae,  Prochyta,  Ischia,  Pausilipum, 
Puteoli,  and  the  rest,  doubtless  one  of  the  most  diver- 
tissant  and  considerable  vistas  in  the  world.  The  church 
is  most  elegantly  built;  the  very  pavements  of  the  com- 
mon cloister  being  all  laid  with  variously  polished  mar- 
bles, richly  figured.  They  showed  us  a  massy  cross  of 
silver,  much  celebrated  for  the  workmanship  and  carving, 
and  said  to  have  been  fourteen  years  in  perfecting.  The 
choir  also  is  of  rare  art;  but  above  all  to  be  admired,  is 
the  yet  unfinished  church  of  the  Jesuits,  certainly,  if  ac- 
complished, not  to  be  equalled  in  Europe.  Hence,  we 
passed  by  the  Palazzo  Caraffii,  full  of  ancient  and  very 
noble  statues:  also  the  palace  of  the  Orsini.  The  next 
day,  we  did  little  but  visit  some  friends,  English  mer- 
chants, resident  for  their  negotiation;  only  this  morning 
at  the  Viceroy's  Cavalerizza  I  saw  the  noblest  horses  that 
I  had  ever  beheld,  one  of  his  sons  riding  the  menage 
with  that  address  and  dexterity  as  I  had  never  seen  any- 
thing approach  it. 

4th  February,  1645.  ^^  were  invited  to  the  collection 
of  exotic  rarities  in  the  Museum  of  Ferdinando  Impe- 
rati,  a  Neapolitan  nobleman,  and  one  of  the  most  ob- 
servable palaces  in  the  city,  the  repository  of  incomparable 
rarities.  Among  the  natural  herbals  most  remarkable 
was  the  Byssus  marina  and  Pinna  marina;  the  male  and 
female  chameleon ;  an  Onocrotatus ;  an  extraordinary  great 
crocodile;  some  of  the  Orcades  Anates,  held  here  for  a 
great  rarity;  likewise  a  salamander;  the  male  and  female 
Manucordiata,  the  male  having  a  hollow  in  the  back,  in 
which  it  is  reported  the  female  both  lays  and  hatches 
her  eggs;  the  mandragoras,  of  both  sexes;  Papyrus, 
made  of  several  reeds,  and  some  of  silk;  tables  of 
the  rinds  of  trees,  written  with  Japonic  characters; 
another  of  the  branches  of  palm;  many  Indian  fruits; 
a  crystal  that  had  a  quantity  of  uncongealed  water 
within  its  cavity;  a  petrified  fisher's  net;  divers  sorts  of 
tarantulas,  being  a  monstrous  spider,  with  lark-like  claws, 
and  somewhat  bigger. 

5th  February,  1645.  This  day  we  beheld  the  Vice- 
king's  procession,  which  was  very  splendid  for  the  relics, 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  151 

banners,  and  music  that  accompanied  the  Blessed  Sacra- 
ment.    The  ceremony  took  up  most  of  the  morning. 

6th  February,  1645.  We  went  by  coach  to  take  the 
air,  and  see  the  diversions,  or  rather  madness  of  the 
Carnival;  the  courtesans  (who  swarm  in  this  city  to  the 
number,  as  we  are  told,  of  30,000,  registered  and  paying 
a  tax  to  the  State )  flinging  eggs  of  sweet  water  into  our 
coach,  as  we  passed  by  the  houses  and  windows.  Indeed, 
the  town  is  so  pestered  with  these  cattle,  that  there 
needs  no  small  mortification  to  preserve  from  their  en- 
chantment, while  they  display  all  their  natural  and  arti- 
ficial beauty,  play,  sing,  feign  compliment,  and  by  a 
thousand  studied  devices  seek  to  inveigle  foolish  young 
men. 

7th  February,  1645.  The  next  day,  being  Saturday, 
we  went  four  miles  out  of  town  on  mules,  to  see  that 
famous  volcano,  Mount  Vesuvius.  Here  we  pass  a  fair 
fountain,  called  Labulla,  which  continually  boils,  supposed 
to  proceed  from  Vesuvius,  and  thence  over  a  river  and 
bridge,  where  on  a  large  upright  stone,  is  engraven  a 
notable  inscription  relative  to  the  memorable  eruption 
in  1630. 

Approaching  the  hill,  as  we  were  able  with  our  mules, 
we  alighted,  crawling  up  the  rest  of  the  proclivity  with 
great  difficulty,  now  with  our  feet,  now  with  our  hands, 
not  without  many  untoward  slips  which  did  much  bruise 
us  on  the  various  colored  cinders,  with  which  the  whole 
mountain  is  covered,  some  like  pitch,  others  full  of  per- 
fect brimstone,  others  metallic,  interspersed  with  innu- 
merable pumices  (of  all  which  I  made  a  collection),  we  at 
the  last  gained  the  summit  of  an  extensive  altitude. 
Turning  our  faces  toward  Naples,  it  presents  one  of  the 
goodliest  prospects  in  the  world;  all  the  Baiae,  Cuma, 
Elysian  Fields,  Capreas,  Ischia,  Prochyta,  Misenus,  Puteoli, 
that  goodly  city,  with  a  great  portion  of  the  Tyrrhene 
Sea,  offering  themselves  to  your  view  at  once,  and  at  so 
agreeable  a  distance,  as  nothing  can  be  more  delightful. 
The  mountain  consists  of  a  double  top,  the  one  pointed 
very  sharp,  and  commonly  appearing  above  any  clouds, 
the  other  blunt.  Here,  as  we  approached,  we  met  many 
large  gaping  clefts  and  chasms,  out  of  which  issued  such 
sulphurous  blasts  and  smoke,  that  we  dared  not  stand 
long  near  them.     Having  gained  the  very  summit,  I  laid 


152  DIARY  OF  VESUVIUS 

myself  down  to  look  over  into  that  most  frightful  and 
terrible  vorago,  a  stupendous  pit  of  near  three  miles  in 
circuit,  and  half  a  mile  in  depth,  by  a  perpendicular 
hollow  cliff  (like  that  from  the  highest  part  of  Dover 
Castle),  with  now  and  then  a  craggy  prominency  jetting 
out.  The  area  at  the  bottom  is  plane,  like  an  even  floor, 
which  seems  to  be  made  by  the  wind  circling  the  ashes 
by  its  eddy  blasts.  In  the  middle  and  centre  is  a  hill, 
shaped  like  a  great  brown  loaf,  appearing  to  consist  of 
sulphurous  matter,  continually  vomiting  a  foggy  exhala- 
tion, and  ejecting  huge  stones  with  an  impetuous  noise 
and  roaring,  like  the  report  of  many  muskets  discharg- 
ing. This  horrid  barathrum  engaged  our  attention  for 
some  hours,  both  for  the  strangeness  of  the  spectacle, 
and  the  mention  which  the  old  histories  make  of  it,  as 
one  of  the  most  stupendous  curiosities  in  nature,  and 
which  made  the  learned  and  inquisitive  Pliny  adventure 
his  life  to  detect  the  causes,  and  to  lose  it  in  too  desper- 
ate an  approach.  It  is  likewise  famous  for  the  stratagem 
of  the  rebel,  Spartacus,  who  did  so  much  mischief  to  the 
State  lurking  among  and  protected  by,  these  horrid 
caverns,  when  it  was  more  accessible  and  less  dangerous 
than  it  is  now;  but  especially  notorious  it  is  for  the  last 
conflagration,  when,  in  anno  1630,  it  burst  out  beyond 
what  it  had  ever  done  in  the  memory  of  history;  throw- 
ing out  huge  stones  and  fiery  pumices  in  such  quantity, 
as  not  only  environed  the  whole  mountain,  but  totally 
buried  and  overwhelmed  divers  towns  and  their  inhabit- 
ants, scattering  the  ashes  more  than  a  hundred  miles, 
and  utterly  devastating  all  those  vineyards,  where  form- 
erly grew  the  most  incomparable  Greco;  when,  bursting 
through  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  it  absorbed  the  very 
sea,  and,  with  its  whirling  waters,  drew  in  divers  galleys 
and  other  vessels  to  their  destruction,  as  is  faithfully 
recorded.  We  descended  with  more  ease  than  we  climbed 
up,  through  a  deep  valley  of  pure  ashes,  which  at  the 
late  eruption  was  a  flowing  river  of  melted  and  burning 
brimstone,  and  so  came  to  our  mules  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain. 

On  Sunday,  we  with  our  guide  visited  the  so  much  cele- 
brated Baia,  and  natural  rarities  of  the  places  adjacent. 
Here  we  entered  the  mountain  Pausilypus,  at  the  left 
hand  of  which  they  showed  us  Virgil's  sepulchre  erected 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  153 

on  a  steep  rock,  in  form  of  a  small  rotunda  or  cupolated 
column,  but  almost  overgrown  with  bushes  and  wild  bay- 
trees.     At  the  entrance  is  this  inscription: 

Stanisi  Cencovius. 

ij8g. 

Qui  cinceres  ?     Tumuli  hcec  vestigia,  conditur  olim 

Ille  hdc  qui  cecinit  Pascua,  Rura  Duces. 

Can  Ree  MDLIII* 

After  we  were  advanced  into  this  noble  and  altogether 
wonderful  crypt,  consisting  of  a  passage  spacious  enough 
for  two  coaches  to  go  abreast,  cut  through  a  rocky  moun- 
tain near  three  quarters  of  a  mile  (by  the  ancient  Cim- 
merii  as  reported,  but  as  others  say  by  L.  Cocceius,  who 
employed  a  hundred  thousand  men  on  it),  we  came  to 
the  midway,  where  there  is  a  well  bored  through  the 
diameter  of  this  vast  mountain,  which  admits  the  light 
into  a  pretty  chapel,  hewn  out  of  the  natural  rock,  wherein 
hang  divers  lamps,  perpetually  burning.  The  way  is 
paved  under  foot ;  but  it  does  not  hinder  the  dust,  which 
rises  so  excessively  in  this  much-frequented  passage,  that 
we  were  forced  at  midday  to  use  a  torch.  At  length, 
we  were  delivered  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth  into  one 
of  the  most  delicious  plains  in  the  world:  the  oranges, 
lemons,  pomegranates,  and  other  fruits,  blushing  yet  on 
the  perpetually  green  trees;  for  the  summer  is  here 
eternal,  caused  by  the  natural  and  adventitious  heat  of 
the  earth,  warmed  through  the  subterranean  fires,  as  was 
shown  us  by  our  guide,  who  alighted,  and,  cutting  up  a 
turf  with  his  knife,  and  delivering  it  to  me,  it  was  so  hot, 
I  was  hardly  able  to  hold  it  in  my  hands.  This  moun- 
tain is  exceedingly  fruitful  in  vines,  and  exotics  grow 
readily. 

We  now  came  to  a  lake  of  about  two  miles  in  circum- 
ference, environed  with  hills;  the  water  of  it  is  fresh  and 
sweet  on  the  surface,  but  salt  at  bottom;  some  mineral 
salt  conjectured  to  be  the  cause,  and  it  is  reported  of  that 

*  Such  is  the  inscription,  as  copied  by  Evelyn ;  but  as  its  sense  is  not 
very  clear,  and  the  Diary  contains  instances  of  incorrectness  in  tran- 
scribing, it  may  be  desirable  to  subjoin  the  distich  said  (by  Keysler  in 
his  «  Travels, >>  ii.  433)  to  be  the  only  one  in  the  whole  mausoleum: 

«  Qucp  cifteris  tu7nulo  here  vestigia  f  conditur  olim 
Ille  hoc  qtii  cecinit  pascua,  rura,  duces?^ 


154  DIARY   OF  lago   d'agnano 

profunditude  in  the  middle  that  it  is  bottomless.  The 
people  call  it  Lago  d'Agnano,  from  the  multitude  of 
serpents  which,  involved  together  about  the  spring,  fall 
down  from  the  cliffy  hills  into  it.  It  has  no  fish,  nor  will 
any  live  in  it.  We  tried  the  old  experiment  on  a  dog  in 
the  Grotto  del  Cane,  or  Charon's  Cave;  it  is  not  above 
three  or  four  paces  deep,  and  about  the  height  of  a  man, 
nor  very  broad.  Whatever  having  life  enters  it,  presently 
expires.  Of  this  we  made  trial  with  two  dogs,  one  of 
which  we  bound  to  a  short  pole  to  guide  him  the  more 
directly  into  the  further  part  of  the  den,  where  he  was  no 
sooner  entered,  but  —  without  the  least  noise,  or  so  much 
as  a  struggle,  except  that  he  panted  for  breath,  lolling  out 
his  tongue,  his  eyes  being  fixed :  —  we  drew  him  out  dead 
to  all  appearance ;  but  immediately  plunging  him  into  the 
adjoining  lake,  within  less  than  half  an  hour  he  recovered, 
and  swimming  to  shore,  ran  away  from  us.  We  tried  the 
same  on  another  dog,  without  the  application  of  the 
water,  and  left  him  quite  dead.  The  experiment  has  been 
made  on  men,  as  on  that  poor  creature  whom  Peter  of 
Toledo  caused  to  go  in ;  likewise  on  some  Turkish  slaves ; 
two  soldiers,  and  other  foolhardy  persons,  who  all  per- 
ished, and  could  never  be  recovered  by  the  water  of  the 
lake,  as  are  dogs;  for  which  many  learned  reasons  have 
been  offered,  as  Simon  Majolus  in  his  book  of  the  Canic- 
ular-days has  mentioned,  colloq.  15.  And  certainly  the 
most  likely  is,  the  effect  of  those  hot  and  dry  vapors 
which  ascend  out  of  the  earth,  and  are  condensed  by  the 
ambient  cold,  as  appears  by  their  converting  into  crystal- 
line drops  on  the  top,  while  at  the  bottom  it  is  so 
excessively  hot,  that  a  torch  being  extinguished  near  it, 
and  lifted  a  little  distance,  was  suddenly  re-lighted. 

Near  to  this  cave  are  the  natural  stoves  of  St.  Germain, 
of  the  nature  of  sudatories,  in  certain  chambers  parti- 
tioned with  stone  for  the  sick  to  sweat  in,  the  vapors 
here  being  exceedingly  hot,  and  of  admirable  success  in 
the  gout,  and  other  coid  distempers  of  the  nerves.  Hence, 
we  climed  up  a  hill,  the  very  highway  in  several  places 
even  smoking  with  heat  like  a  furnace.  The  mountains 
were  by  the  Greeks  called  Leucogaei,  and  the  fields 
Phlegraen.  Hercules  here  vanquished  the  Giants,  assisted 
with  lightning.  We  now  came  to  the  Court  of  Vulcan, 
consisting  of  a  valley  near  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 


1 645  JOHN   EVELYN  155 

the  margin  environed  with  steep  cliffs,  out  of  whose 
sides  and  foot  break  forth  fire  and  smoke  in  abundance, 
making  a  noise  like  a  tempest  of  water,  and  sometimes 
discharging  in  loud  reports,  like  so  many  guns.  The 
heat  of  this  place  is  wonderful,  the  earth  itself  being 
almost  unsufferable,  and  which  the  subterranean  fires 
have  made  so  hollow,  by  having  wasted  the  matter  for 
so  many  years,  that  it  sounds  like  a  drum  to  those  who 
walk  upon  it;  and  the  water  thus  struggling  with  those 
fires  bubbles  and  spouts  aloft  into  the  air.  The  mouths 
of  these  spiracles  are  bestrewed  with  variously  colored 
cinders,  which  rise  with  the  vapor,  as  do  many  colored 
stones,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  combustible  mat- 
ter, insomuch  as  it  is  no  little  adventure  to  approach 
them.  They  are,  however,  daily  frequented  both  by  sick 
and  well;  the  former  receiving  the  fumes,  have  been 
recovered  of  diseases  esteemed  incurable.  Here  we  found 
a  great  deal  of  sulphur  made,  which  they  refine  in  certain 
houses  near  the  place,  casting  it  into  canes,  to  a  very 
gfreat  value.  Near  this  we  were  showed  a  hill  of  alum, 
where  is  one  of  the  best  mineries,  yielding  a  considerable 
revenue.  Some  flowers  of  brass  are  found  here;  but  I 
could  not  but  smile  at  those  who  persuade  themselves 
that  here  are  the  gates  of  purgatory  (for  which  it  may 
be  they  have  erected,  very  near  it,  a  convent,  and  named 
it  St.  Januarius),  reporting  to  have  often  heard  screeches 
and  horrible  lamentations  proceeding  from  these  caverns 
and  volcanoes ;  with  other  legends  of  birds  that  are  never 
seen,  save  on  Sundays,  which  cast  themselves  into  the 
lake  at  night,  appearing  no  more  all  the  week  after. 

We  now  approached  the  ruins  of  a  very  stately  temple, 
or  theater,  of  172  feet  in  length,  and  about  80  in 
breadth,  thrown  down  by  an  earthquake,  not  long  since; 
it  was  consecrated  to  Vulcan,  and  under  the  ground  are 
many  strange  meanders;  from  which  it  is  named  the 
Labyrinth  ;  this  place  is  so  haunted  with  bats,  that  their 
perpetual  fluttering  endangered  the  putting  out  our  links. 

Hence,  we  passed  again  those  boiling  and  smoking  hills, 
till  we  came  to  Pozzolo,  formerly  the  famous  Puteoli,  the 
landing-place  of  St.  Paul,  when  he  came  into  Italy,  after 
the  tempest  described  in  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles.  Here 
we  made  a  good  dinner,  and  bought  divers  medals,  an- 
tiquities, and  other  curiosities,  of  the  country  people,  who 


156  DIARY  OF  PozzoLO 

daily  find  such  things  among  the  very  old  ruins  of  those 
places.  This  town  was  formerly  a  Greek  colony,  built  by 
the  Samians,  a  seasonable  commodious  port,  and  full  of 
observable  antiquities.  We  saw  the  ruins  of  Neptune's 
Temple,  to  whom  this  place  was  sacred,  and  near  it  the 
stately  palace  and  gardens  of  Peter  de  Toledo,  formerly 
mentioned.  Afterward,  we  visited  that  admirably  built 
Temple  of  Augustus,  seeming  to  have  been  hewn  out  of 
an  entire  rock,  though  indeed  consisting  of  several  square 
stones.  The  inscription  remains  thus:  **Z.  Calphurnius 
L.  F.  Templum  Augusto  cutn  ornametitis  D.  Z)./"  and  under 
it,  *Z.  Coccejus  L.  C.  Postu^ni  L.  Auctus  Architectus?'*  It  is 
now  converted  into  a  church,  in  which  they  showed  us  huge 
bones,  which  they  affirm  to  have  been  of  some  giant. 

We  went  to  see  the  ruins  of  the  old  haven,  so  compact 
with  that  bituminous  sand  in  which  the  materials  are  laid, 
as  the  like  is  hardly  to  be  found,  though  all  this  has  not 
been  sufficient  to  protect  it  from  the  fatal  concussions  of 
several  earthquakes  (frequent  here)  which  have  almost 
demolished  it,  thirteen  vast  piles  of  marble  only  remain- 
ing; a  stupendous  work  in  the  bosom  of  Neptune!  To 
this  joins  the  bridge  of  Caligula,  by  which  (having  now 
embarked  ourselves)  we  sailed  to  the  pleasant  Baia,  almost 
four  miles  in  length,  all  which  way  that  proud  Emperor 
would  pass  in  triumph.  Here  we  rowed  along  toward  a 
villa  of  the  orator  Cicero's,  where  we  were  shown  the 
ruins  of  his  Academy;  and,  at  the  foot  of  a  rock,  his 
Baths,  the  waters  reciprocating  their  tides  with  the  neigh- 
boring sea.  Hard  at  hand,  rises  Mount  Gaurus,  being,  as 
I  conceived,  nothing  save  a  heap  of  pumices,  which  here 
float  in  abundance  on  the  sea,  exhausted  of  all  inflam- 
mable matter  by  the  fire,  which  renders  them  light  and 
porous,  so  as  the  beds  of  nitre,  which  lie  deep  under 
them,  having  taken  fire,  do  easily  eject  them.  They  dig 
much  for  fancied  treasure  said  to  be  concealed  about  this 
place.  From  hence,  we  coasted  near  the  ruins  of  Portus 
Julius,  where  we  might  see  divers  stately  palaces  that  had 
been  swallowed  up  by  the  sea  after  earthquakes.  Coming 
to  shore,  we  pass  by  the  Lucrine  Lake,  so  famous  here- 
tofore for  its  delicious  oysters,  now  producing  few  or  none, 
being  divided  from  the  sea  by  a  bank  of  incredible  labor, 
the  supposed  work  of  Hercules ;  it  is  now  half  choked  up 
with  rubbish,  and   by  part  of  the  new  mountain,  which 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  157 

rose  partly  out  of  it,  and  partly  out  of  the  sea,  and  that 
in  the  space  of  one  night  and  a  day,  to  a  very  great  al- 
titude, on  the  29th  September,  1538,  after  many  terrible 
earthquakes,  which  ruined  divers  places  thereabout,  when 
at  midnight  the  sea  retiring  near  200  paces,  and  yawning 
on  the  sudden,  it  continued  to  vomit  forth  flames  and 
fiery  stones  in  such  quantity,  as  produced  this  whole 
mountain  by  their  fall,  making  the  inhabitants  of  Pozzolo 
to  leave  their  habitations,  supposing  the  end  of  the  world 
had  been  come. 

From  the  left  part  of  this,  we  walked  to  the  Lake 
Avernus  of  a  round  form,  and  totally  environed  with 
mountains.  This  lake  was  feigned  by  the  poet  for  the 
gates  of  hell,  by  which  ^neas  made  his  descent,  and 
where  he  sacrificed  to  Pluto  and  the  Manes.  The  waters 
are  of  a  remarkably  black  color;  but  I  tasted  of  them 
without  danger;  hence,  they  feign  that  the  river  Styx 
has  its  source.  At  one  side,  stand  the  handsome  ruins 
of  a  Temple  dedicated  to  Apollo,  or  rather  Pluto,  but  it 
is  controverted.  Opposite  to  this,  having  new  lighted 
our  torches,  we  enter  a  vast  cave,  in  which  having  gone 
about  two  hundred  paces,  we  pass  a  narrow  entry  which 
leads  us  into  a  room  of  about  ten  paces  long,  propor- 
tionably  broad  and  high;  the  side  walls  and  roof  retain 
still  the  golden  mosaic,  though  now  exceedingly  decayed 
by  time.  Here  is  a  short  cell  or  rather  niche,  cut  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  somewhat  resembling  a  couch,  in  which 
they  report  that  the  Sibylla  lay,  and  uttered  her  Oracles ; 
but  it  is  supposed  by  most  to  have  been  a  bath  only. 
This  subterranean  grot  leads  quite  through  to  Cuma, 
but  is  in  some  places  obstructed  by  the  earth  which  has 
sunk  in,  so  as  we  were  constrained  back  again,  and  to 
creep  on  our  bellies,  before  we  came  to  the  light.  It  is 
reported  Nero  had  once  resolved  to  cut  a  channel  for 
two  great  galleys  that  should  have  extended  to  Ostia, 
150  miles  distant.     The  people  now  call  it  Licola. 

From  hence,  we  ascended  to  that  most  ancient  city  of 
Italy,  the  renowned  Cuma,  built  by  the  Grecians.  It 
stands  on  a  very  eminent  promontory,  but  is  now  a 
heap  of  ruins.  A  little  below,  stands  the  Arco  Felice, 
heretofore  part  of  Apollo's  Temple,  with  the  foundations 
of  divers  goodly  buildings;  among  whose  heaps  are  fre- 
quently  found   statues  and  other   antiquities,  by  such  as 


158  DIARY  OF  MisENUS 

dig  for  them.  Near  this  is  the  Lake  Acherutia,  and 
Acheron.  Returning  to  the  shore,  we  came  to  the  Bagni 
de  Tritoli  and  Diana,  which  are  only  long  narrow  pas- 
sages cut  through  the  main  rock,  where  the  vapors 
ascend  so  hot,  that  entering  with  the  body  erect  you 
will  even  faint  with  excessive  perspiration;  but,  stooping 
lower,  as  sudden  a  cold  surprises.  These  sudatories  are 
much  in  request  for  many  infirmities.  Now  we  entered 
the  haven  of  the  Bahise,  where  once  stood  that  famous 
town,  so-called  from  the  companion  of  Ulysses  here 
buried;  not  without  great  reason  celebrated  for  one  of 
the  most  delicious  places  that  the  sun  shines  on,  accord- 
ing to  that  of  Horace: 

'•^■Nullus  in  Orbe  locus  Baits  prcBlucet  antcenis.'^ 

Though,  as  to  the  stately  fabrics,  there  now  remain 
little  save  the  ruins,  whereof  the  most  entire  is  that  of 
Diana's  Temple,  and  another  of  Venus.  Here  were  those 
famous  poles  of  lampreys  that  would  come  to  hand  when 
called  by  name,  as  Martial  tells  us.  On  the  summit  of 
the  rock  stands  a  strong  castle  garrisoned  to  protect  the 
shore  from  Turkish  pirates.  It  was  once  the  retiring 
place  of  Julius  Caesar. 

Passing  by  the  shore  again,  we  entered  Bauli,  observa- 
ble from  the  monstrous  murder  of  Nero  committed  on 
his  mother  Agrippina.  Her  sepulchre  was  yet  shown 
us  in  the  rock,  which  we  entered,  being  covered  with 
sundry  heads  and  figures  of  beasts.  We  saw  there  the 
roots  of  a  tree  turned  into  stone,  and  are  continually 
dropping. 

Thus  having  viewed  the  foundations  of  the  old  Cimmeria, 
the  palaces  of  Marius,  Pompey,  Nero,  Hortensius,  and 
other  villas  and  antiquities,  we  proceeded  toward  the 
promontory  of  Misenus,  renowned  for  the  sepulchre  of 
.^Eneas's  Trumpeter.  It  was  once  a  great  city,  now  hardly 
a  ruin,  said  to  have  been  built  from  this  place  to  the 
promontory  of  Minerva,  fifty  miles  distant,  now  discon- 
tinued and  demolished  by  the  frequent  earthquakes.  Here 
was  the  villa  of  Caius  Marius,  where  Tiberius  Caesar 
died ;  and  here  runs  the  Aqueduct,  thought  to  be  dug  by 
Nero,  a  stupendous  passage,  heretofore  nobly  arched  with 
marble,  as  the  ruins  testify.  Hence,  we  walked  to  those 
receptacles    of    water   called   Piscina  Mirabilis,    being  a 


1 645  JOHN  EVELYN  159 

vault  of  500  feet  long,  and  twenty-two  in  breadth,  the 
roof  propped  up  with  four  ranks  of  square  pillars,  twelve 
in  a  row;  the  walls  are  brick,  plastered  over  with  such 
a  composition  as  for  strength  and  politure  resembles 
white  marble.  'Tis  conceived  to  have  been  built  by  Nero, 
as  a  conservatory  for  fresh  water;  as  were  also  the  Centi 
Camerelli,  into  which  we  were  next  led.  All  these  crypta 
being  now  almost  sunk  into  the  earth,  show  yet  their 
former  amplitude  and  magnificence. 

Returning  toward  the  Baia,  we  again  pass  the  Elysian 
Fields,  so  celebrated  by  the  poets,  nor  unworthily,  for 
their  situation  and  verdure,  being  full  of  myrtles  and 
sweet  shrubs,  and  having  a  most  delightful  prospect 
toward  the  Tyrrhene  Sea.  Upon  the  verge  of  these 
remain  the  ruins  of  the  ^lercato  di  Saboto,  formerly  a 
Circus ;  over  the  arches  stand  divers  urns,  full  of  Roman 
ashes. 

Having  well  satisfied  our  curiosity  among  these  antiqui- 
ties, we  retired  to  our  felucca,  which  rowed  us  back 
again  toward  Pozzolo,  at  the  very  place  of  St,  Paul's 
landing.  Keeping  along  the  shore,  they  showed  us  a 
place  where  the  sea  water  and  sands  did  exceedingly  boil. 
Thence,  to  the  island  Nesis,  once  the  fabulous  Nymph; 
and  thus  we  leave  the  Baia,  so  renowned  for  the  sweet 
retirements  of  the  most  opulent  and  voluptuous  Romans. 
They  certainly  were  places  of  uncommon  amenity,  as 
their  yet  tempting  site,  and  other  circumstances  of  natural 
curiosities,  easily  invite  me  to  believe,  since  there  is  not 
in  the  world  so  many  stupendous  rarities  to  be  met  with, 
as  in  the  circle  of  a  few  miles  which  environ  these  bliss- 
ful abodes. 

8th  February,  1645.  Returned  to  Naples,  we  went  to 
see  the  Arsenal,  well  furnished  with  galleys  and  other 
vessels.  The  city  is  crowded  with  inhabitants,  gentle- 
men and  merchants.  The  government  is  held  of  the 
Pope  by  an  annual  tribute  of  40,000  ducats  and  a  white 
jennet;  but  the  Spaniard  trusts  more  to  the  power  of 
those  his  natural  subjects  there;  Apulia  and  Calabria 
yielding  him  near  four  millions  of  crowns  yearly  to  main- 
tain it.  The  country  is  divided  into  thirteen  Provinces, 
twenty  Archbishops,  and  one  hundred  and  seven  Bishops; 
the  estates  of  the  nobility,  in  default  of  the  male  line, 
reverting  to  the  King.     Besides    the    Vice-Roy,    there    is 


i6o  DIARY  OF  Naples 

among  the  Chief  Magistrates  a  High  Constable,  Admiral, 
Chief  Justice,  Great  Chamberlain,  and  Chancellor,  with  a 
Secretary;  these  being  prodigiously  avaricious,  do  won- 
derfully enrich  themselves  out  of  the  miserable  people's 
labor,  silks,  manna,  sugar,  oil,  wine,  rice,  sulphur,  and 
alum;  for  with  all  these  riches  is  this  delicious  country 
blest.  The  manna  falls  at  certain  seasons  on  the  adjoin- 
ing hills  in  form  of  a  thick  dew.  The  very  winter  here 
is  a  summer,  ever  fruitful,  so  that  in  the  middle  of  Feb- 
ruary we  had  melons,  cherries,  apricots,  and  many  other 
sorts  of   fruit. 

The  building  of  the  city  is  for  the  size  the  most  mag- 
nificent of  any  in  Europe,  the  streets  exceeding  large, 
well  paved,  having  many  vaults  and  conveyances  under 
them  for  the  sulliage;  which  renders  them  very  sweet 
and  clean,  even  in  the  midst  of  winter.  To  it  belongeth 
more  than  3,000  churches  and  monasteries,  and  these  the 
best  built  and  adorned  of  any  in  Italy.  They  greatly 
affect  the  Spanish  gravity  in  their  habit ;  delight  in  good 
horses;  the  streets  are  full  of  gallants  on  horseback,  in 
coaches  and  sedans,  from  hence  brought  first  into  Eng- 
land by  Sir  Sanders  Duncomb.  The  women  are  gener- 
ally well  featured,  but  excessively  libidinous.  The  country 
people  so  jovial  and  addicted  to  music,  that  the  very 
husbandmen  almost  universally  play  on  the  guitar,  sing- 
ing and  composing  songs  in  praise  of  their  sweethearts, 
and  will  commonly  go  to  the  field  with  their  fiddle ;  they 
are  merry,  witty,  and  genial;  all  which  I  much  attribute 
to  the  excellent  quality  of  the  air.  They  have  a  deadly 
hatred  to  the  French,  so  that  some  of  our  company  were 
flouted  at  for  wearing  red  cloaks,  as  the  mode  then  was. 

This  I  made  the  non  ultra  of  my  travels,  sufficiently 
sated  with  rolling  up  and  down,  and  resolving  within 
myself  to  be  no  longer  an  individuum  vagum,  if  ever  I 
got  home  again;  since,  from  the  report  of  divers  experi- 
enced and  curious  persons,  I  had  been  assured  there  was 
little  more  to  be  seen  in  the  rest  of  the  civil  world, 
after  Italy,  France,  Flanders,  and  the  Low  Countries, 
but  plain   and   prodigious   barbarism. 

Thus,  about  the  7th  of  February,*  we  set  out  on  our 
return  to  Rome  by  the    same  way   we  came,    not  daring 

♦Evelyn's  dates  in  this  portion  of  his. Diary  appear  to  require  oc- 
casionally that  qualification  of  « about.* 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  i6i 

to  adventure  by  sea,  as  some  of  our  company  were  in- 
clined to  do,  for  fear  of  Turkish  pirates  hovering  on  that 
coast ;  nor  made  we  any  stay  save  at  Albano,  to  view  the 
celebrated  place  and  sepulchre  of  the  famous  duelists 
who  decided  the  ancient  quarrel  between  their  imperious 
neighbors  with  the  loss  of  their  lives.  These  brothers, 
the  Horatii  and  Curiatii,  lie  buried  near  the  highway, 
under  two  ancient  pyramids  of  stone,  now  somewhat  de- 
cayed and  overgrown  with  rubbish.  We  took  the  oppor- 
tunity of  tasting  the  wine  here,  which  is  famous. 

Being  arrived  at  Rome  on  the  13th  of  February,  we 
were  again  invited  to  Signor  Angeloni's  study,  where  with 
greater  leisure  we  surveyed  the  rarities,  as  his  cabinet 
and  medals  especially,  esteemed  one  of  the  best  collec- 
tions of  them  in  Europe.  He  also  showed  us  two  antique 
lamps,  one  of  them  dedicated  to  Pallas,  the  other  Laribus 
Sacru\  as  appeared  by  their  inscriptions ;  some  old  Roman 
rings  and  keys;  the  Egyptian  Isis,  cast  in  iron;  sundry 
rare  basso-relievos;  good  pieces  of  paintings,  principally 
of  Christ  of  Correggio,  with  this  painter's  own  face  admi- 
rably done  by  himself;  divers  of  both  the  Bassanos;  a 
great  number  of  pieces  by  Titian,  particularly  the 
Triumphs;  an  infinity  of  natural  rarities,  dried  animals, 
Indian  habits  and  weapons,  shells,  etc. ;  dives  very  antique 
statues  of  brass:  some  lamps  of  so  fine  in  earth  that 
they  resembled  cornelians,  for  transparency  and  color; 
hinges  of  Corinthian  brass,  and  one  great  nail  of  the 
same  metal  found  in  the  ruins  of  Nero's  golden  house. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  ferried  over  to  Transtevere,  to  the 
palace  of  Gichi,  to  review  the  works  of  Raphael:  and, 
returning  by  St.  Angelo,  we  saw  the  castle  as  far  as  was 
permitted,  and  on  the  other  side  considered  those  admi- 
rable pilasters  supposed  to  be  of  the  foundation  of 
the  Pons  Sublicius,  over  which  Horatius  Codes  passed; 
here  anchor  three  or  four  water  mills,  invented  by  Beli- 
zarius:  and  thence  had  another  sight  of  the  Farnesi's  gar- 
dens, and  of  the  terrace  where  is  that  admirable  paint- 
ing of  Raphael,  being  a  Cupid  playing  with  a  Dolphin, 
wrought  a  fresco,  preserved  in  shutters  of  wainscot,  as 
well  it  merits,  being  certainly  one  of  the  most  wonder- 
ful pieces  of  work  in  the  world. 

14th  February,  1645.  ^  went  to  Santa  Cecilia,  a  church 
built  and  endowed  by  Cardinal  Sfrondaeti,  who  has  erected 
II 


i62  DIARY  OF  ROME 

a  stately  altar  near  the  body  of  this  martyr,  not  long  be- 
fore found  in  a  vesture  of  silk  girt  about,  a  veil  on  her 
head,  and  the  bloody  scars  of  three  wounds  on  the  neck ; 
the  body  is  now  in  a  silver  chest,  with  her  statue  over  it, 
in  snow-white  marble.  Other  Saints  lie  here,  decorated 
with  splendid  ornaments,  lamps,  and  incensories  of  great 
cost.  A  little  farther,  they  show  us  the  Bath  of  St. 
Cecilia,  to  which  joins  a  Convent  of  Friars,  where  is  the 
picture  of  the  Flagellation' by  Vanni,  and  the  columns  of 
the  portico,  taken  from  the  Baths  of   Septimius  Severus. 

15th  February,  1645.  Mr.  Henshaw  and  I  walked  by 
the  Tiber,  and  visited  the  Stola  Tybertina  ( now  St.  Bar- 
tholomew's), formerly  cut  in  the  shape  of  a  ship,  and 
wharfed  with  marble,  in  which  a  lofty  obelisk  repre- 
sented the  mast.  In  the  church  of  St.  Bartholomew  is 
the  body  of  the  Apostle.  Here  are  the  ruins  of  the  Temple 
of  -^sculapius,  now  converted  into  a  stately  hospital  and 
a  pretty  convent.  Opposite  to  it,  is  the  convent  and  church 
of  St.  John  Calabita,  where  I  saw  nothing  remarkable,  save 
an  old  broken  altar.  Here  was  the  Temple  of  Fortuna 
Virilis.  Hence,  we  went  to  a  cupola,  now  a  church, 
formerly  dedicated  to  the  sun.  Opposite  to  it,  Santa 
Maria  Schola  Graeca,  where  formerly  that  tongue  was 
taught;  said  to  be  the  second  church  dedicated  in  Rome 
to  the  Blessed  Virgin;  bearing  also  the  title  of  a  Car- 
dinalate.  Behind  this  stands  the  great  altar  of  Hercules, 
much  demolished.  Near  this,  being  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Aventine,  are  the  Pope's  salt  houses.  Ascending  the  hill, 
we  came  to  St,  Sabina,  an  ancient  fabric,  formerly  sacred 
to  Diana;  there,  in  a  chapel,  is  an  admirable  picture, 
the  work  of  Livia  Fontana,  set  about  with  columns  of 
alabaster,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  church  is  a  stone, 
cast,  as  they  report,  by  the  Devil  at  St.  Dominic,  while 
he  was  at  mass.  Hence,  we  traveled  toward  a  heap  of 
rubbish,  called  the  Marmorata,  on  the  bank  of  the  Tiber, 
a  magazine  of  stones;  and  near  which  formerly  stood  a 
triumphal  arch,  in  honor  of  Horatius  vanquishing  the 
Tuscans.     The  ruins  of  the  bridge  yet  appear. 

We  were  now  got  to  Mons  Testaceus,  a  heap  of  pot- 
sherds, almost  200  feet  high,  thought  to  have  been  thrown 
there  and  amassed  by  the  subjects  of  the  Commonwealth 
bringing  their  tribute  in  earthen  vessels,  others  (more 
probably )  that  it  was  a  quarter  of   the  town  where  pot- 


1 645  JOHN   EVELYN  163 

ters  lived ;  at  the  summit  Rome  affords  a  noble  prospect. 
Before  it  is  a  spacious  green,  called  the  Hippodrome, 
where  Olympic  games  were  celebrated,  and  the  people 
mustered,  as  in  our  London  Artillery-Ground.  Going 
hence,  to  the  old  wall  of  the  city,  we  much  admired  the 
pyramid,  or  tomb,  of  Caius  Cestius,  of  white  marble, 
one  of  the  most  ancient  entire  monuments,  inserted  in  the 
wall,  with  this  inscription: 

«  C.  Cestius  L.  F.  Fob.  Epulo  ( an  order  of  priests )  Fr.  Tr.  pi. 
VII.  Vir.  Epuionum.^^ 

And  a  little  beneath: 

*^Opus  absolutum  ex  testamento  diebus  CCCXXX.  arbitratu. 
Fonti  F.  F.  Cla.  Melee  Heredis  et  Fothi  L. » 

At  the  left  hand,  is  the  Port  of  St.  Paul,  once  Terge- 
mina,  out  of  which  the  three  Horatii  passed  to  encounter 
the  Curiatii  of  Albano.  Hence,  bending  homeward  by  St. 
Saba,  by  Antoninus's  baths  (which  we  entered),  is  the 
marble  sepulchre  of  Vespasian.  The  thickness  of  the 
walls  and  the  stately  ruins  show  the  enormous  magni- 
tude of  these  baths.  Passing  by  a  corner  of  the  Circus 
Maximus,  we  viewed  the  place  where  stood  the  Septi- 
zonium,  demolished  by  Sextus  V.,  for  fear  of  its  falling. 
Going  by  Mons  Coelius,  we  beheld  the  devotions  of  St. 
Maria  in  Navicula,  so  named  from  a  ship  carved  out  in 
white  marble  standing  on  a  pedestal  before  it,  supposed  to 
be  the  vow  of  one  escaped  from  shipwreck.  It  has  a 
glorious  front  to  the  street.  Adjoining  to  this  are  the 
Hortii  Mathaei,  which  only  of  all  the  places  about  the 
city  I  omitted  visiting,  though  I  was  told  inferior  to  no 
garden  in  Rome  for  statues,  ancient  monuments,  aviaries, 
fountains,  groves,  and  especially  a  noble  obelisk,  and 
maintained  in  beauty  at  an  expense  of  6,000  crowns 
yearly,  which,  if  not  expended  to  keep  up  its  beauty, 
forfeits  the  possession  of  a  greater  revenue  to  another 
family:  so  curious  are  they  in  their  villas  and  places  of 
pleasure,  even  to  excess. 

The  next  day,  we  went  to  the  once  famous  Circus  Cara- 
calla,  in  the  midst  of  which  there  now  lay  prostrate  one 
of  the  most  stately  and  ancient  obelisks,  full  of  Egyptian 
hieroglyphics.  It  was  broken  into  four  pieces,  when  over- 
thrown by  the  Barbarians,  and  would  have  been  pur- 
chased and  transported   into  England  by  the  magnificent 


i6i  DIARY   OF  ROME 

Thomas  Earl  of  Arundel,  could  it  have  been  well  re- 
moved to  the  sea.  This  is  since  set  together  and  placed 
on  the  stupendous  artificial  rock  made  by  Innocent  X., 
and  serving  for  a  fountain  in  Piazza  Navona,  the  work 
of  Bernini,  the  Pope's  architect.  Near  this  is  the  sepul- 
chre of  Metellus,  of  massy  stone,  pretty  entire,  now 
called  Capo  di  Bovo.  Hence,  to  a  small  oratory,  named 
^^ Domine,  quo  vadis^^;  where  the  tradition  is,  that  our 
Blessed  Savior  met  St.  Peter  as  he  fled,  and  turned  him 
back  again. 

St.  Sebastian's  was  the  next,  a  mean  structure  (the 
faccidta  excepted,  but  is  venerable,  especially  for  the 
relics  and  grots,  in  which  lie  the  ashes  of  many  holy 
men.  Here  is  kept  the  pontifical  chair  sprinkled  with 
the  blood  of  Pope  Stephen,  to  which  great  devotion  is 
paid;  also  a  well  full  of  martyrs'  bones,  and  the  sepul- 
chre of  St.  Sebastian,  with  one  of  the  arrows  (used  in 
shooting  him).  These  are  preserved  by  the  Fulgentine 
Monks,  who  have  here  their  monastery,  and  who  led  us  down 
into  a  grotto  which  they  affirmed  went  divers  furlongs 
under  ground ;  the  sides,  or  walls  which  we  passed  were 
filled  with  bones  and  dead  bodies,  laid  (as  it  were)  on 
shelves,  whereof  some  were  shut  up  with  broad  stones 
and  now  and  then  a  cross,  or  a  palm,  cut  in  them.  At 
the  end  of  some  of  these  subterranean  passages,  were 
square  rooms  with  altars  in  them,  said  to  have  been  the 
receptacles  of  primitive  Christians,  in  the  times  of  per- 
secution, nor  seems  it  improbable. 

17th  February,  1645.  I  was  invited,  after  dinner,  to 
the  Academy  of  the  Humorists,  kept  in  a  spacious  hall 
belonging  to  Signor  Mancini,  where  the  wits  of  the  town 
meet  on  certain  days  to  recite  poems,  and  debate  on 
several  subjects.  The  first  that  speaks  is  called  the 
Lord,  and  stands  in  an  eminent  place,  and  then  the  rest 
of  the  Virtuosi  recite  in  order.  By  these  ingenious  ex- 
ercises, besides  the  learned  discourses,  is  the  purity  of 
the  Italian  tongue  daily  improved.  The  room  is  hung 
round  with  devices,  or  emblems,  with  mottoes  under 
them.  There  are  several  other  Academies  of  this  nature, 
bearing  like  fantastical  titles.  In  this  of  the  Humorists 
is  the  picture  of  Guarini,  the  famous  author  of  the  Pas- 
tor Fido,  once  of  this  society.  The  chief  part  of  the  day 
we  spent  in  hearing  the  academic  exercises. 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  165 

1 8th  February,  1645.  We  walked  to  St.  Nicholas  in 
Carcere;  it  has  a  fair  front,  and  within  are  parts  of  the 
bodies  of  St.  Mark  and  Marcellino;  on  the  Tribuna  is  a 
painting  of  Gentileschi,  and  the  altar  of  Caval ;  Bag- 
lioni,  with  some  other  rare  paintings.  Coming  round 
from  hence  we  passed  by  the  Circus  Flaminius,  formerly 
very  large,  now  totally  in  ruins.  In  the  afternoon,  we 
visited  the  English  Jesuits,  with  whose  Superior,  P.  Staf- 
ford, I  was  well  acquainted;  who  received  us  courteously. 
They  call  their  church  and  college  St.  Thomasso  de  gli 
Inglesi,  and  is  a  seminary.  Among  other  trifles,  they 
show  the  relics  of  Becket,  their  reputed  martjT.  Of 
paintings  there  i5  one  of  Durante,  and  many  represent- 
ing the  sufiferings  of  several  of  their  society  executed  in 
England,  especially  F.  Campion. 

In  the  Hospital  of  the  Pelerini  della  S.  Trinita,  I  had 
seen  the  feet  of  many  pilgrims  washed  by  Princes,  Car- 
dinals, and  noble  Romans,  and  served  at  table,  as  the 
ladies  and  noble  women  did  to  other  poor  creatures  in 
another  room.  It  was  told  us  that  no  less  than  444,000 
men  had  been  thus  treated  in  the  Jubilee  of  1600,  and 
25,500  women,  as  appears  by  the  register,  which  brings 
store  of  money. 

Returning  homeward,  I  saw  the  palace  of  Cardinal 
Spada,  where  is  a  most  magnificent  hall  painted  by  Daniel 
de  Volterra  and  Giulio  Piacentino,  who  made  the  fret  in 
the  little  Court;  but  the  rare  perspectives  are  of  Bolog- 
nesi.  Near  this  is  the  Mont  Pieta,  instituted  as  a  bank 
for  the  poor,  who,  if  the  sum  be  not  great,  may  have 
money  upon  pawns.  To  this  joins  St.  Martino,  to  which 
belongs  a  Schola,  or  Corporation,  that  do  many  works  of 
charity.  Hence  we  came  through  Campo  di  Fiori,  or 
herb-market,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  a  fountain  casting 
out  water  of  a  dolphin,  in  copper;  and  in  this  piazza  is 
common  execution  done. 

19th  Februar)'',  1645.  I  went,  this  afternoon,  to  visit 
my  Lord  John  Somerset,  brother  to  the  Marquis  of 
"Worcester,  who  had  his  apartment  in  Palazzo  della  Can- 
cellaria,  belonging  to  Cardinal  Francesco  Barberini,  as 
Vice-chancellor  of  the  Church  of  Rome,  and  Protector  of 
the  English.  The  building  is  of  the  famous  architect, 
Bramante,  of  incrusted  marble,  with  four  ranks  of  noble 
lights;  the  principal  entrance  is  of  Fontana's  design,  and 


1 66  DIARY  OF  rome 

all  marble ;  the  portico  within  sustained  by  massy  columns ; 
on  the  second  peristyle  above,  the  chambers  are  rarely 
painted  by  Salviati  and  Vasari;  and  so  ample  is  this 
palace,  that  six  princes  with  their  families  have  been 
received  in  it  at  one  time,  without  incommoding  each  other. 

2oth  February,  1645.  I  went,  as  was  my  usual  custom, 
and  spent  an  afternoon  in  Piazza  Navona,  as  well  as  to 
see  what  antiquities  I  could  purchase  among  the  people 
who  hold  market  there  for  medals,  pictures,  and  such 
curiosities,  as  to  hear  the  mountebanks  prate  and  dis- 
tribute their  medicines.  This  was  formerly  the  Circus, 
or  Agonales,  dedicated  to  sports  and  pastimes,  and  is 
now  the  greatest  market  of  the  city,  having  three  most 
noble  fountains,  and  the  stately  palaces  of  the  Pamfilii, 
St.  Giacomo  de  Spagnoli  belonging  to  that  nation,  to 
which  add  two  convents  for  friars  and  nuns,  all  Span- 
ish. In  this  Church  was  erected  a  most  stately  catafalco, 
or  capellar  ardente,  for  the  death  of  the  Queen  of  Spain ; 
the  church  was  hung  with  black,  and  here  I  heard  a  Span- 
ish sermon,  or  funeral  oration,  and  observed  the  statues, 
devices,  and  impresses  hung  about  the  walls,  the  church 
and  pyramid  stuck  with  thousands  of  lights  and  tapers, 
which  made  a  glorious  show.  The  statue  of  St.  James 
is  by  Sansovino;  there  are  also  some  good  pictures  of 
Caracci.  The  faccidta,  too,  is  fair.  Returning  home,  I 
passed  by  the  stumps  of  old  Pasquin,  at  the  comer  of  a 
street,  called  Strada  Pontificia;  here  they  still  paste  up 
their  drolling  lampoons  and  scurrilous  papers.  This  had 
formerly  been  one  of  the  best  statues  for  workmanship 
and  art  in  all  the  city,  as  the  remaining  bust  does  still  show. 

2ist  February,  1645.  I  walked  in  the  morning  up  the 
hill  toward  the  Capuchins,  where  was  then  Cardinal  Un- 
ufrio  (brother  to  the  late  Pope  Urban  VIII.)  of  the  same  or- 
der. He  built  them  a  pretty  church,  full  of  rare  pictures, 
and  there  lies  the  body  of  St.  Felix,  that  they  say  still 
does  miracles.  The  piece  at  the  great  altar  is  by  Lan- 
frame.  It  is  a  lofty  edifice,  with  a  beautiful  avenue  of 
trees,  and  in  a  good  air.  After  dinner,  passing  along  the 
Strada  del  Corso,  I  observed  the  column  of  Antoninus, 
passing  under  Arco  Portugallo,  which  is  but  a  relic,  here- 
tofore erected  in  honor  of  Domitian,  called  now  Portu- 
gallo, from  a  Cardinal  living  near  it.  A  little  further  on 
the  right  hand  stands  the  column  in  a  small  piazza,  here- 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  167 

tofore  set  up  in  honor  of  M.  Aurelius  Antoninus,  com- 
prehending in  a  basso-relievo  of  white  marble  his  hostile 
acts  against  the  Parthians,  Armenians,  Germans,  etc; 
but  it  is  now  somewhat  decayed.  On  the  summit  has 
been  placed  the  image  of  St.  Paul,  of  gilded  copper. 
The  pillar  is  said  to  be  161  feet  high,  ascended  by  207 
steps,  receiving  light  by  fifty-six  apertures,  without  de- 
facing the  sculpture. 

At  a  little  distance,  are  the  relics  of  the  Emperor's 
palace,  the  heads  of  whose  pillars  show  them  to  have 
been  Corinthian. 

Turning  a  little  down,  we  came  to  another  piazza,  in 
which  stands  a  sumptuous  vase  of  porphyry,  and  a  fair 
fountain;  but  the  grace  of  this  market,  and  indeed  the 
admiration  of  the  whole  world,  is  the  Pantheon,  now  called 
S.  Maria  della  Rotonda,  formerly  sacred  to  all  the  Gods, 
and  still  remaining  the  most  entire  antiquity  of  the  city. 
It  was  built  by  Marcus  Agrippa,  as  testifies  the  architrave 
of  the  portico,  sustained  by  thirteen  pillars  of  Theban 
marble,  six  feet  thick,  and  fifty- three  in  height,  of  one 
entire  stone.     In  this  porch  is  an  old  inscription. 

Entering  the  church,  we  admire  the  fabric,  wholly 
covered  with  one  cupola,  seemingly  suspended  in  the  air, 
and  receiving  light  by  a  hole  in  the  middle  only.  The 
structure  is  near  as  high  as  broad,  viz,  144  feet,  not 
counting  the  thickness  of  the  walls,  which  is  twenty- 
two  more  to  the  top,  all  of  white  marble ;  and,  till  Urban 
VIII,  converted  part  of  the  metal  into  ordnance  of  war 
against  the  Duke  of  Parma,  and  part  to  make  the  high 
altar  in  St.  Peter's,  it  was  all  over  covered  with  Corinthian 
brass,  ascending  by  forty  degrees  within  the  roof,  or 
convex,  of  the  cupola,  richly  carved  in  octagons  in  the 
stone.  There  are  niches  in  the  walls,  in  which  stood 
heretofore  the  statues  of  Jupiter  and  the  other  Gods  and 
Goddesses;  for  here  was  that  Venus  which  had  hung  in 
her  ear  the  other  Union*  that  Cleopatra  was  about  to  dis- 

•  And  in  the  cup  an  union  shall  he  throw, 
Richer  than  that  which  four  successive  kings 
In  Denmark's  crown  have  worn. 

— Shakespeare,  «  Hamlet,*  Act  v.  Sc.  2. 

Theobald  says,  an  union  is  the  finest  sort  of  pearl,  and  has  its  place 
in  all  crowns  and  coronets.  The  Latin  word  for  a  single  large  pearl,  it 
is  hardly  necessary  to  add,  is  unto. 


i68  DIARY  OF  ROME 

solve  and  drink  up,  as  she  had  done  its  fellow.  There 
are  several  of  these  niches,  one  above  another  for  the 
celestial,  terrestrial,  and  subterranean  deities;  but  the 
place  is  now  converted  into  a  church  dedicated  to  the 
Blessed  Virgin  and  all  the  Saints.  The  pavement  is  ex- 
cellent, and  the  vast  folding-gates,  of  Corinthian  brass. 
In  a  word,  it  is  of  all  the  Roman  antiquities  the  most 
worthy  of  notice.  There  lie  interred  in  this  Temple  the 
famous  Raphael  di  Urbino,  Perino  del  Vaga,  F.  Zuccharo, 
and  other  painters. 

Returning  home,  we  pass  by  Cardinal  Cajetan's  Palace, 
a  noble  piece  of  architecture  of  Vincenzo  Ammanatti, 
which  is  the  grace  of  the  whole  Corso. 

2 2d  February,  1645.  I  went  to  Trinitd  del  Monte,  a 
monastery  of  French,  a  noble  church  built  by  Louis  XI. 
and  Charles  VIII.,  the  chapels  well  painted,  especially 
that  by  Zaccara  da  Volterra,  and  the  cloister  with  the 
miracles  of  their  St.  Francis  de  Paulo,  and  the  heads  of 
the  French  Kings.  In  the  pergolo  above,  the  walls  are 
wrought  with  excellent  perspective,  especially  the  St. 
John;  there  are  the  Babylonish  dials,  invented  by  Kir- 
cher,  the  Jesuit.  This  convent,  so  eminently  situated 
on  Mons  Pincius,  has  the  entire  prospect  of  Campus 
Martins,  and  has  a  fair  garden  which  joins  to  the  Palazzo 
di  Medici. 

23d  February,  1645.  I  went  to  hear  a  sermon  at  St. 
Giacomo  degli  Incurabili,  a  fair  church  built  by  F,  da 
Volterra,  of  good  architecture,  and  so  is  the  hospital, 
where  only  desperate  patients  are  brought.  I  passed  the 
evening  at  St.  Maria  del  Popolo,  heretofore  Nero's 
sepulchre,  where  his  ashes  lay  many  years  in  a  marble 
chest.  To  this  church  joins  the  monastery  of  St.  Augus- 
tine, which  has  pretty  gardens  on  Mons  Pincius,  and  in 
the  church  is  the  miraculous  shrine  of  the  Madonna 
which  Pope  Paul  III.  brought  barefooted  to  the  place, 
supplicating  for  a  victory  over  the  Turks  in  1464.  In  a 
chapel  of  the  Ghisi,  are  some  rare  paintings  of  Raphael, 
and  noble  sculptures.  Those  two  in  the  choir  are  by 
Sansovino,  and  in  the  Chapel  de  Cerasii,  a  piece  of  Cara- 
vaggio.  Here  lie  buried  many  great  scholars  and  artists, 
of  which  I  took  notice  of  this  inscription: 

*  Hospes,  disce  novum  mortis  genus;  improba  felts, 
Dum  trahitur,  dig  Hum  mordet,  et  inter  eo?^ 


1 645  JOHN    EVELYN  169 

Opposite  to  the  faccidtce  of  the  church  is  a  superb 
obelisk  full  of  hieroglyphics,  the  same  that  Sennesertus, 
King  of  Egypt,  dedicated  to  the  Sun;  brought  to  Rome 
by  Augustus,  erected  in  the  Circus  Maximus,  and  since 
placed  here  by  Pope  Sextus  V.  It  is  eighty-eight  feet 
high,  of  one  entire  stone,  and  placed  with  great  art  and 
engines  by  the  famous  Domenico  Fontana. 

Hence,  turning  on  the  right  out  of  the  Porto  del 
Popolo,  we  came  to  Justinian's  gardens,  near  the  Muro 
Torto,  so  prominently  built  as  threatening  every  moment 
to  fall,  yet  standing  so  for  these  thousand  years.  Under 
this  is  the  burying  place  for  the  common  prostitutes, 
where  they  are  put  into  the  ground,  sans  ceremonie. 

24th  February,  1645.  We  walked  to  St.  Roche's  and 
Martine's,  near  the  brink  of  the  Tiber,  a  large  hospital 
for  both  sexes.  Hence,  to  the  Mausoleum  Augusti,  be- 
tween the  Tiber  and  the  Via  Flaminia,  now  much  ruined, 
which  had  formerly  contended  for  its  sumptuous  archi- 
tecture. It  was  intended  as  a  cemetery  for  the  Roman 
Emperors,  had  twelve  ports,  and  was  covered  with  a 
cupola  of  white  marble,  environed  with  stately  trees  and 
innumerable  statues,  all  of  it  now  converted  into  a  gar- 
den. We  passed  the  afternoon  at  the  Sapienza,  a  very 
stately  building  full  of  good  marbles,  especially  the  por- 
tico, of  admirable  architecture.  These  are  properly  the 
University  Schools,  where  lectures  are  read  on  Law, 
Medicine,  and  Anatomy,  and  students  perform  their 
exercises. 

Hence,  we  walked  to  the  church  of  St.  Andrea  della 
Valle,  near  the  former  Theater  of  Pompey,  and  the 
famous  Piccolomini,  but  given  to  this  church  and  the 
Order,  who  are  Theatins.  The  Barberini  have  in  this 
place  a  chapel,  of  curious  incrusted  marbles  of  several 
sorts,  and  rare  paintings.  Under  it  is  a  place  where  St. 
Sebastian  is  said  to  have  been  beaten  with  rods  before 
he  was  shot  with  darts.  The  cupola  is  painted  by  Lan- 
franc,  an  inestimable  work,  and  the  whole  fabric  and 
monastery  adjoining  are  admirable. 

25th  February,  1645.  ^  was  invited  by  a  Dominican 
Friar,  whom  we  usually  heard  preach  to  a  number  of 
Jews,  to  be  godfather  to  a  converted  Turk  and  Jew.  The 
ceremony  was  performed  in  the  Church  of  Santa  Maria 
sopra  la  Minerva,  near   the   Capitol.     They  were  clad  in 


I70  DIARY   OF  rome 

white;  then  exorcised  at  their  entering  the  church  with 
abundance  of  ceremonies,  and,  when  led  into  the  choir, 
were  baptized  by  a  Bishop,  in  pontificalibus.  The  Turk 
lived  afterward  in  Rome,  sold  hot  waters  and  would 
bring  us  presents  when  he  met  us,  kneeling  and  kissing 
the  hems  of  our  cloaks;  but  the  Jew  was  believed  to 
be  a  counterfeit.  This  church,  situated  on  a  spacious 
rising,  was  formerly  consecrated  to  Minerva.  It  was  well 
built  and  richly  adorned,  and  the  body  of  St.  Catherine 
di  Sienna  lies  buried  here.  The  paintings  of  the  chapel 
are  by  Marcello  Venuti;  the  Madonna  over  the  altar  is 
by  Giovanni  di  Fiesole,  called  the  Angelic  Painter,  who 
was  of  the  Order  of  these  Monks.  There  are  many 
charities  dealt  publicly  here,  especially  at  the  procession 
on  the  Annunciation,  where  I  saw  his  Holiness,  with  all 
the  Cardinals,  Prelates,  etc.,  in  pontificalibus;  dowries 
being  given  to  300  poor  girls  all  clad  in  white.  The 
Pope  had  his  tiara  on  his  head,  and  was  carried  on  men's 
shoulders  in  an  open  armchair,  blessing  the  people  as 
he  passed.  The  statue  of  Christ,  at  the  Columna,  is 
esteemed  one  of  the  masterpieces  of  M.  Angelo:  innum- 
erable are  the  paintings  by  the  best  artists,  and  the 
organ  is  accounted  one  of  the  sweetest  in  Rome.  Car- 
dinal Bembo  is  interred  here.  We  returned  by  St. 
Mark's,  a  stately  church,  with  an  excellent  pavement, 
and  a  fine  piece  by  Perugino,  of  the  Two  Martyrs.  Ad- 
joining to  this  is  a  noble  palace  built  by  the  famous 
Bramante. 

26th  February,  1645.  Ascending  the  hill,  we  came  to 
the  Forum  Trajanum,  where  his  column  stands  yet  en- 
tire, wrought  with  admirable  basso-relievo  recording  the 
Dacian  war,  the  figures  at  the  upper  part  appearing  of 
the  same  proportion  with  those  below.  It  is  ascended 
by  192  steps,  enlightened  with  44  apertures,  or  windows, 
artificially  disposed;  in  height  from  the  pedestal  140 
feet. 

It  had  once  the  ashes  of  Trajan  and  his  statue,  where 
now  stands  St.  Peter's  of  gilt  brass,  erected  by  Pope 
Sextus  V.  The  sculpture  of  this  stupendous  pillar  is 
thought  to  be  the  work  of  Apollodorus ;  but  what  is  very 
observable  is,  the  descent  to  the  plinth  of  the  pedestal, 
showing  how  this  ancient  city  lies  now  buried  in  her 
ruins;  this  monument  being  at  first   set    up   on   a   rising 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  171 

ground.  After  dinner,  we  took  the  air  in  Cardinal  Ben- 
tivoglio's  delicious  gardens,  now  but  newly  deceased.  He 
had  a  fair  palace  built  by  several  good  masters  on  part 
of  the  ruins  of  Constantine's  Baths;  well  adorned  with 
columns  and  paintings,  especially  those  of  Guido  Reni. 

27th  February,  1645.  In  the  morning  Mr.  Henshaw 
and  myself  walked  to  the  Trophies  of  Marius,  erected  in 
honor  of  his  victory  over  the  Cimbrians,  but  these  now 
taken  out  of  their  niches  are  placed  on  the  balusters  of 
the  Capitol,  so  that  their  ancient  station  is  now  a  ruin. 
Keeping  on  our  way,  we  came  to  St.  Croce  of  Jerusa- 
lem, built  by  Constantine  over  the  demolition  of  the 
Temple  of  Venus  and  Cupid,  which  he  threw  down;  and 
it  was  here,  they  report,  he  deposited  the  wood  of  the 
true  Cross,  found  by  his  mother,  Helena;  in  honor 
whereof  this  church  was  built,  and  in  memory  of  his  vic- 
tory over  Maxentius  when  that  holy  sign  appeared  to 
him.  The  edifice  without  is  Gothic,  but  very  glorious 
within,  especially  the  roof,  and  one  tribuna  (gallery) 
well  painted.  Here  is  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Helena, 
the  floor  whereof  is  of  earth  brought  from  Jerusalem; 
the  walls  are  of  fair  mosaic,  in  which  they  suffer  no 
women  to  enter,  save  once  a  year.  Under  the  high  altar 
of  the  Church  is  buried  St.  Anastasius,  in  Lydian  mar 
ble,  and  Benedict  VII. ;  and  they  show  a  number  of  relics, 
exposed  at  our  request;  with  a  phial  of  our  blessed  Sav- 
ior's blood;  two  thorns  of  his  crown;  three  chips  of 
the  real  cross;  one  of  the  nails,  wanting  a  point;  St. 
Thomas's  doubting  finger;  and  a  fragment  of  the  title  (put 
on  the  cross),  being  part  of  a  thin  board;  some  of  Judas's 
pieces  of  silver;  and  many  more,  if  one  had  faith  to  be- 
lieve it.  To  this  venerable  church  joins  a  Monastery,  the 
gardens  taking  up  the  space  of  an  ancient  amphitheatre. 

Hence,  we  passed  beyond  the  walls  out  at  the  Port  of 
St.  Laurence,  to  that  Saint's  church,  and  where  his  ashes 
are  enshrined.  This  was  also  built  by  the  same  great 
Constantine,  famous  for  the  Coronation  of  Pietro  Altissio- 
dorensis.  Emperor  of  Constantinople,  by  Honorius  11. 
It  is  said  the  corpse  of  St.  Stephen,  the  proto  martyr, 
was  deposited  here  by  that  of  St.  Sebastian,  which  it 
had  no  sooner  touched,  but  Sebastian  gave  it  place  of 
its  own  accord.  The  Church  has  no  less  than  seven 
privileged  altars,  and  excellent  pictures.     About  the  walls 


172  DIARY    OP  ROME 

are  painted  this  martyr's  sufferings;  and,  when  they  built 
them,  the  bones  of  divers  saints  were  translated  to  other 
churches.  The  front  is  Gothic.  In  our  return,  we  saw  a 
small  ruin  of  an  aqueduct  built  by  Quintus  Marcius, 
the  praetor;  and  so  passed  through  that  incomparable 
straight  street  leading  to  Santa  Maria  Maggiore,  to  our 
lodging,  sufficiently  tired. 

We  were  taken  up  next  morning  in  seeing  the  imperti- 
nences of  the  Carnival,  when  all  the  world  are  as  mad 
at  Rome  as  at  other  places;  but  the  most  remarkable 
were  the  three  races  of  the  Barbary  horses,  that  run  in 
the  Strada  del  Corso  without  riders,  only  having  spurs  so 
placed  on  their  backs,  and  hanging  down  by  their  sides, 
as  by  their  motion  to  stimulate  them :  then  of  mares,  then 
of  asses,  of  buffalos,  naked  men,  old  and  young,  and 
boys,  and  abundance  of  idle  ridiculous  pastime.  One 
thing  is  remarkable,  their  acting  comedies  on  a  stage 
placed  on  a  cart,  or  plaustrum,  where  the  scene,  or  tir- 
ing place,  is  made  of  boughs  in  a  rural  manner,  which 
they  drive  from  street  to  street  with  a  yoke  or  two  of 
oxen,  after  the  ancient  guise.  The  streets  swarm  with 
prostitutes,  buffoons,  and  all  manner  of  rabble. 

ist  March,  1645.  At  the  Greek  Church,  we  saw  the 
Eastern  ceremonies  performed  by  a  Bishop,  etc.,  in  that 
tongue.  Here  the  unfortunate  Duke  and  Duchess  of 
Bouillon  received  their  ashes,  it  being  the  first  day  of 
Lent.  There  was  now  as  much  trudging  up  and  down 
of  devotees,  as  the  day  before  of  licentious  people;  all 
saints  alike  to  appearance. 

The  gardens  of  Justinian,  which  we  next  visited,  are 
very  full  of  statues  and  antiquities,  especially  urns;  among 
which  is  that  of  Minutius  Felix ;  a  terminus  that  formerly 
stood  in  the  Appian  way,  and  a  huge  colossi  of  the  Em- 
peror Justinian.  There  is  a  delicate  aviary  on  the  hill; 
the  whole  gardens  furnished  with  rare  collections,  fresh, 
shady,  and  adorned  with  noble  fountains.  Continuing 
our  walk  a  mile  farther,  we  came  to  Pons  Milvius,  now 
Mela,  where  Constantine  overthrew  Maxentius,  and  saw 
the  miraculous  sign  of  the  cross.  In  hoc  signo  vinces.  It 
was  a  sweet  morning,  and  the  bushes  were  full  of  night- 
ingales. Hence,  to  Aqua  Claudia  again,  an  aqueduct  fin- 
ished by  that  Emperor  at  the  expense  of  eight  millions. 
In  the  afternoon,  to  Famese's   gardens,    near  the  Campo 


1 645  JOHN   EVELYN  173 

Vaccino;  and  upon  the  Palatine  Mount  to  survey  the 
ruins  of  Juno's  Temple,  in  the  Piscina,  a  piazza  so-called 
near  the  famous  bridge  built  by  Antoninus  Pius,  and  re- 
edified  by  Pope  Sextus  IV. 

The  rest  of  this  week,  we  went  to  the  Vatican,  to  hear 
the  sermons,  at  St.  Peter's,  of  the  most  famous  preach- 
ers, who  discourse  on  the  same  subjects  and  text  yearly, 
full  of  Italian  eloquence  and  action.  On  our  Lady  day, 
25th  March,  we  saw  the  Pope  and  Cardinals  ride  in  pomp 
to  the  Minerva,  the  great  guns  of  the  Castle  of  St.  An- 
gelo  being  fired,  when  he  gives  portions  to  500  zitelle 
(young  women),  who  kiss  his  feet  in  procession,  some 
destined  to  marry,  some  to  be  nuns;  —  the  scholars  of  the 
college  celebrating  the  blessed  Virgin  with  their  compo- 
sitions. The  next  day,  his  Holiness  was  busied  in  bless- 
ing golden  roses,  to  be  sent  to  several  great  Princes ;  the 
Procurator  of  the  Carmelites  preaching  on  our  Savior's 
feeding  the  multitude  with  five  loaves,  the  ceremony 
ends.  The  sacrament  being  this  day  exposed,  and  the 
relics  of  the  Holy  Cross,  the  concourse  about  the  streets 
is  extraordinary.  On  Palm -Sunday,  there  was  a  great 
procession,  after  a  papal  mass, 

nth  April,  1645.  St.  Veronica's  handkerchief  (with 
the  impression  of  our  Savior's  face)  was  exposed,  and 
the  next  day  the  spear,  with  a  world  of  ceremony.  On 
Holy  Thursday,  the  Pope  said  mass,  and  afterward  car- 
ried the  Host  in  procession  about  the  chapel,  with  an 
infinity  of  tapers.  This  finished,  his  Holiness  was  carried 
in  his  open  chair  on  men's  shoulders  to  the  place  where, 
reading  the  Bull  In  Ccend  Domini,  he  both  curses  and 
blesses  all  in  a  breath;  then  the  guns  are  again  fired. 
Hence,  he  went  to  the  Ducal  hall  of  the  Vatican,  where 
he  washed  the  feet  of  twelve  poor  men,  with  almost  the 
same  ceremony  as  it  is  done  at  Whitehall ;  they  have  clothes, 
a  dinner,  and  alms,  which  he  gives  with  his  own  hands, 
and  serves  at  their  table ;  they  have  also  gold  and  silver 
medals,  but  their  garments  are  of  white  woolen  long 
robes,  as  we  paint  the  Apostles.  The  same  ceremonies 
are  done  by  the  Conservators  and  other  officers  of  state 
at  St.  John  di  Lateran;  and  now  the  table  on  which 
they  say  our  blessed  Lord  celebrated  his  last  supper  is 
set  out,  and  the  heads  of  the  Apostles.  In  every  famous 
church  they  are  busy  in  dressing  up  their  pageantries  to 


174  DIARY   OF  rome 

represent  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  of  which  we  went  to  visit 
divers. 

On  Good  Friday,  we  went  again  to  St.  Peter's,  where 
the  handkerchief,  lance,  and  cross  were  all  exposed,  and 
worshiped  together.  All  the  confession  seats  were  filled 
with  devout  people,  and  at  night  was  a  procession  of  sev- 
eral who  most  lamentably  whipped  themselves  till  the  blood 
stained  their  clothes,  for  some  had  shirts,  others  upon 
the  bare  back,  having  visors  and  masks  on  their  faces; 
at  every  three  or  four  steps  dashing  the  knotted  and 
raveled  whip  cord  over  their  shoulders,  as  hard  as  they 
could  lay  it  on ;  while  some  of  the  religious  orders  and 
fraternities  sung  in  a  dismal  tone,  the  lights  and  crosses 
going  before,  making  all  together  a  horrible  and  indeed 
heathenish  pomp. 

The  next  day,  there  was  much  ceremony  at  St.  John 
di  Laterano,  so  as  the  whole  week  was  spent  in  running 
from  church  to  church,  all  the  town  in  busy  devotion, 
great  silence,  and  unimaginable  superstition. 

Easter  day,  I  was  awakened  by  the  guns  from  St. 
Angelo:  we  went  to  St,  Peter's,  where  the  Pope  himself 
celebrated  mass,  showed  the  relics  before-named,  and 
gave  a  public  Benediction. 

Monday,  we  went  to  hear  music  in  the  Chiesa  Nova; 
and,  though  there  were  abundance  of  ceremonies  at  the 
other  great  churches,  and  great  exposure  of  relics,  yet 
being  wearied  with  sights  of  this  nature,  and  the  season 
of  the  year,  summer,  at  Rome  being  very  dangerous,  by 
reason  of  the  heat  minding  us  of  returning  northward, 
we  spent  the  rest  of  our  time  in  visiting  such  places  as 
we  had  not  yet  sufficiently  seen.  Only  I  do  not  forget 
the  Pope's  benediction  of  the  Gonfalone^  or  Standard,  and 
giving  the  hallowed  palms;  and,  on  May  Day,  the  great 
procession  of  the  University  and  the  muleteers  at  St. 
Anthony's,  and  their  setting  up  a  foolish  May  pole  in  the 
Capitol,  very  ridiculous.  We  therefore  now  took  coach  a 
little  out  of  town,  to  visit  the  famous  Roma  Soterr^nea, 
being  much  like  what  we  had  seen  at  St.  Sebastians. 
Here,  in  a  cornfield,  guided  by  two  torches,  we  crept  on 
our  bellies  into  a  little  hole,  about  twenty  paces,  which 
delivered  us  into  a  large  entry  that  led  us  into  several 
streets,  or  alleys,  a  good  depth  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth, 
a  strange  and  fearful  passage   for    divers  miles,  as  Bosio 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  175 

has  measured  and  described  them  in  his  book.  We  ever 
and  anon  came  into  pretty  square  rooms,  that  seemed  to 
be  chapels  with  altars,  and  some  adorned  with  very  ordi- 
nary ancient  painting.  Many  skeletons  and  bodies  are 
placed  on  the  sides  one  above  the  other  in  degrees  like 
shelves,  whereof  some  are  shut  up  with  a  coarse  flat  stone, 
having  engraven  on  them  Pro  Christo^  or  a  cross  and 
palms,  which  are  supposed  to  have  been  martyrs.  Here, 
in  all  likelihood,  were  the  meetings  of  the  Primitive 
Christians  during  the  persecutions,  as  Pliny  the  Younger 
describes  them.  As  I  was  pr^'ing  about,  I  found  a  glass 
phial,  filled  (as  was  conjectured)  with  dried  blood,  and 
two  lachrymatories.  Many  of  the  bodies,  or  rather  bones 
(for  there  appeared  nothing  else)  lay  so  entire,  as  if 
placed  by  the  art  of  the  chirurgeon,  but  being  only 
touched  fell  all  to  dust.  Thus,  after  wandering  two  or 
three  miles  in  this  subterranean  meander,  we  returned 
almost  blind  when  we  came  into  the  daylight,  and  even 
choked  by  the  smoke  of  the  torches.  It  is  said  that  a 
French  bishop  and  his  retinue  adventuring  too  far  into 
these  dens,  their  lights  going  out,  were  never  heard  of 
more. 

We  were  entertained  at  night  with  an  English  play  at 
the  Jesuits',  where  we  before  had  dined;  and  the  next  day 
at  Prince  Galicano's,  who  himself  composed  the  music  to 
a  magnificent  opera,  where  were  present  Cardinal  Pam- 
philio,  the  Pope's  nephew,  the  Governors  of  Rome,  the 
cardinals,  the  ambassadors,  ladies,  and  a  number  of  nobil- 
ity and  strangers.  There  had  been  in  the  morning  a 
joust  and  tournament  of  several  young  gentlemen  on  a 
formal  defy,  to  which  we  had  been  invited;  the  prizes 
being  distributed  by  the  ladies,  after  the  knight-errantry 
way.  The  lancers  and  swordsmen  running  at  tilt  against 
the  barriers,  with  a  great  deal  of  clatter,  but  without 
any  bloodshed,  giving  much  diversion  to  the  spectators, 
and  was  new  to  us  travelers. 

The  next  day  Mr.  Henshaw  and  I  spent  the  morning  in 
attending  the  entrance  and  cavalcade  of  Cardinal  Medici, 
the  ambassador  from  the  Grand  Duke  of  Florence,  by  the 
Via  Flaminia.  After  dinner,  we  went  again  to  the  Villa 
Borghese,  about  a  mile  without  the  city;  the  garden  is 
rather  a  park,  or  a  Paradise,  contrived  and  planted  with 
walks   and   shades   of   myrtles,  cypress,   and  other  trees, 


176  DIARY   OF  ROME 

and  gproves,  with'abundance  of  fountains,  statues,  and  bass- 
relievos,  and  several  pretty  murmuring  rivulets.  Here 
they  had  hung  large  nets  to  catch  woodcocks.  There 
was  also  a  vivary,  where,  among  other  exotic  fowls,  was 
an  ostrich;  besides  a  most  capacious  aviary;  and,  in  an- 
other inclosed  part,  a  herd  of  deer.  Before  the  palace 
(which  might  become  the  court  of  a  great  prince)  stands 
a  noble  fountain,  of  white  marble,  enriched  with  statues. 
The  outer  walls  of  the  house  are  encrusted  with  excellent 
antique  bass-relievos,  of  the  same  marble,  incomished 
with  festoons  and  niches  set  with  statues  from  the  foun- 
dation to  the  roof.  A  stately  portico  joins  the  palace, 
full  of  statues  and  columns  of  marble,  urns,  and  other 
curiosities  of  sculpture.  In  the  first  hall  were  the  Twelve 
Caesars,  of  antique  marble,  and  the  whole  apartments  fur- 
nished with  pictures  of  the  most  celebrated  masters,  and 
two  rare  tables  of  porph3rry,  of  great  value.  But  of  this 
already:  for  I  often  visited  this  delicious  place. 

This  night  were  glorious  fire-works  at  the  palace  of 
Cardinal  Medici  before  the  gate,  and  lights  of  several 
colors  all  about  the  windows  through  the  city,  which  they 
contrive  by  setting  the  candles  in  little  paper  lanterns 
dyed  with  various  colors,  placing  hundreds  of  them  from 
story  to  story;  which  renders  a  gallant  show. 

4th  May,  1645.  Having  seen  the  entry  of  the  ambassa- 
dor of  Lucca,  I  went  to  the  Vatican,  where,  by  favor  of 
our  Cardinal  Protector,  Fran.  Barberini,  I  was  admitted 
into  the  Consistory,  heard  the  ambassador  make  his  ora- 
tion in  Latin  to  the  Pope,  sitting  on  an  elevated  state, 
or  throne,  and  changing  two  pontifical  mitres ;  after  which, 
I  was  presented  to  kiss  his  toe,  that  is,  his  embroidered 
slipper,  two  Cardinals  holding  up  his  vest  and  surplice; 
and  then,  being  sufficiently  blessed  with  his  thumb  and 
two  fingers  for  that  day  I  returned  home  to  dinner. 

We  went  again  to  see  the  medals  of  Signor  Gotefredi, 
which  are  absolutely  the  best  collection  in  Rome. 

Passing  the  Ludovisia  Villa,  where  the  petrified  human 
figure  lies,  found  on  the  snowy  Alps ;  I  measured  the 
hydra,  and  found  it  not  a  foot  long ;  the  three  necks  and 
fifteen  heads  seem  to  be  but  patched  up  with  several 
pieces  of  serpents'  skins. 

5th  May,  1645.  We  took  coach,  and  went  fifteen  miles 
out  of  the  city  to    Frascati,    formerly   Tusculum,  a  villa 


i64S  JOHN  EVELYN  177 

of  Cardinal  Aldobrandini,  built  for  a  country  house;  but 
surpassing-,  in  my  opinion,  the  most  delicious  places  I 
ever  beheld  for  its  situation,  elegance,  plentiful  water, 
groves,  ascents,  and  prospects.  Just  behind  the  palace 
(which  is  of  excellent  architecture)  in  the  centre  of  the 
inclosure,  rises  a  high  hill,  or  mountain,  all  over  clad 
with  tall  wood,  and  so  formed  by  nature,  as  if  it  had 
been  cut  out  by  art,  from  the  summit  whereof  falls  a 
cascade,  seeming  rather  a  great  river  than  a  stream  pre- 
cipitating- into  a  large  theatre  of  water,  representing  an 
exact  and  perfect  rainbow,  when  the  sun  shines  out. 
Under  this,  is  made  an  artificial  grot,  wherein  are  curious 
rocks,  hydraulic  organs,  and  all  sorts  of  singing  birds, 
moving  and  chirping  by  force  of  the  water,  with  several 
other  pageants  and  surprising  inventions.  In  the  centre 
of  one  of  these  rooms,  rises  a  copper  ball  that  continu- 
ally dances  about  three  feet  above  the  pavement,  by  vir- 
tue of  a  wind  conveyed  secretly  to  a  hole  beneath  it; 
with  many  other  devices  to  wet  the  unwary  spectators, 
so  that  one  can  hardly  step  without  wetting  to  the  skin. 
In  one  of  these  theaters  of  water,  is  an  Atlas  spouting 
up  the  stream  to  a  very  great  height;  and  another  mon- 
ster makes  a  terrible  roaring  with  a  horn;  but,  above 
all,  the  representation  of  a  storm  is  most  natural,  with 
such  fury  of  rain,  wind,  and  thunder,  as  one  would 
imagine  oneself  in  some  extreme  tempest.  The  garden 
has  excellent  walks  and  shady  groves,  abundance  of  rare 
fruit,  oranges,  lemons,  etc.,  and  the  goodly  prospect  of 
Rome,  above  all  description,  so  as  I  do  not  wonder  that 
Cicero  and  others  have  celebrated  this  place  with  such 
encomiums.  The  Palace  is  indeed  built  more  like  a 
cabinet  than  anything  composed  of  stone  and  mortar; 
it  has  in  the  middle  a  hall  furnished  with  excellent  mar- 
bles and  rare  pictures,  especially  those  of  Gioseppino 
d'Arpino;  the  movables  are  princely  and  rich.  This 
was  the  last  piece  of  architecture  finished  by  Giacomo 
della  Porta,  who  built  it  for  Pietro  Cardinal  Aldobran- 
dini, in  the  time  of  Clement  VIII.  * 

We  went  hence  to  another  house  and  o^arden  not  far 
distant,  on  the  side  of  a  hill  called  Mondragone,  finished 
by  Cardinal  Scipio  Borghese,  an  ample  and  kingly  edifice. 

•Cardinal  Hippolito  Aldobrandini  was  elected  Pope  in  January, 
2592,  by  the  name  of  Clement  VIII.,  and  died  in  March,  1605. 

13 


178  DIARY   OF  tivoli 

It  has  a  very  long  gallery,  and  at  the  end  a  theatre  for 
pastimes,  spacious  courts,  rare  grots,  vineyards,  olive- 
grounds,  groves  and  solitudes.  The  air  is  so  fresh  and 
sweet,  as  few  parts  of  Italy  exceed  it;  nor  is  it  inferior 
to  any  palace  in  the  city  itself  for  statues,  pictures,  and 
furniture;  but,  it  growing  late,  we  could  not  take  such 
particular  notice  of  these  things  as  they  deserved. 

6th  May,  1645.  We  rested  ourselves;  and  next  day,  in 
a  coach,  took  our  last  farewell  of  visiting  the  circumja- 
cent places,  going  to  Tivoli,  or  the  old  Tiburtum.  At 
about  six  miles  from  Rome,  we  pass  the  Teverone,  a 
bridge  built  by  Mammea,  the  mother  of  Severus,  and  so 
by  divers  ancient  sepulchres,  among  others  that  of  Val- 
erius Volusi;  and  near  it  past  the  sinking  suphurous 
river  over  the  Ponte  Lucano,  where  we  found  a  heap,  or 
turret,  full  of  inscriptions,  now  called  the  Tomb  of 
Plautius.  Arrived  at  Tivoli,  we  went  first  to  see  the 
palace  d'Este,  erected  on  a  plain,  but  where  was  form- 
erly an  hill.  The  palace  is  very  ample  and  stately.  In 
the  garden,  on  the  right  hand,  are  sixteen  vast  conchas 
of  marble,  jetting  out  waters;  in  the  midst  of  these 
stands  a  Janus  quadrifrons,  that  cast  forth  four  girandolas, 
called  from  the  resemblance  (to  a  particular  exhibition 
in  fireworks  so  named  )  the  Fountana  di  Spdccho  (look- 
ing-glass ).  Near  this  is  a  place  for  tilting.  Before  the 
ascent  of  the  palace  is  the  famous  fountain  of  Leda,  and 
not  far  from  that,  four  sweet  and  delicious  gardens. 
Descending  thence  are  two  pyramids  of  water,  and  in  a 
grove  of  trees  near  it  the  fountains  of  Tethys,  Escula- 
pius,  Arethusa,  Pandora,  Pomona,  and  Flora;  then  the 
prancing  Pegasus  Bacchus,  the  Grot  of  Venus,  the  two 
Colosses  of  Melicerta  and  Sibylla  Tiburtina,  all  of  ex- 
quisite marble,  copper,  and  other  suitable  adornments. 
The  Cupids  pouring  out  water  are  especially  most  rare, 
and  the  urns  on  which  are  placed  the  ten  nymphs.  The 
grots  are  richly  paved  with  pietra-commessa,  shells,  coral, 
etc. 

Toward  Roma  Triumphans,  leads  a  long  and  spacious 
walk,  full  of  fountains,  under  which  is  historized  the 
whole  Ovidian  Metamorphosis,  in  rarely  sculptured  mezzo 
relievo.  At  the  end  of  this,  next  the  wall,  is  the  city  of 
Rome  as  it  was  in  its  beauty,  of  small  models,  repre- 
senting   that     city,    with    its    amphitheatres;    naumachi, 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  179 

thermae,  temples,  arches,  aqueducts,  streets,  and  other 
magnificences,  with  a  little  stream  running  through  it  for 
the  Tiber,  gushing  out  of  an  urn  next  to  the  statue  of 
the  river.  In  another  garden,  is  a  noble  aviary,  the  birds 
artificial,  and  singing  till  an  owl  appears,  on  which  they 
suddenly  change  their  notes.  Near  this  is  the  fountain 
of  dragons,  casting  out  large  streams  of  water  with  great 
noise.  In  another  grotto,  called  Grotto  di  Natura,  is  an 
hydraulic  organ;  and  below  this  are  divers  stews  and 
fish  ponds,  in  one  of  which  is  the  statue  of  Neptune  in 
his  chariot  on  a  seahorse,  in  another  a  Triton ;  and  lastly, 
a  garden  of  simples.  There  are  besides  in  the  palace 
many  rare  statues  and  pictures,  bedsteads  richly  inlaid, 
and  sundry  other  precious  movables:  the  whole  is  said 
to  have  cost  the  best  part  of  a  million. 

Having  gratified  our  curiosity  with  these  artificial 
miracles,  and  dined,  we  went  to  see  the  so  famous  natural 
precipice  and  cascade  of  the  river  Anio,  rushing  down 
from  the  mountains  of  Tivoli  with  that  fury  that,  what 
with  the  mist  it  perpetually  casts  up  by  the  breaking  of 
the  water  against  the  rocks,  and  what  with  the  sun 
shining  on  it  and  forming  a  natural  Iris,  and  the 
prodigious  depth  of  the  gulf  below,  it  is  enough  to 
astonish  one  that  looks  on  it.  Upon  the  summit  of  this 
rock  stands  the  ruins  and  some  pillars  and  cornices  of 
the  Temple  of  Sibylla  Tyburtina,  or  Albunea,  a  round 
fabric,  still  discovering  some  of  its  pristine  beauty.  Here 
was  a  gread  deal  of  gunpowder  drying  in  the  sun,  and  a 
little  beneath,  mills  belonging  to  the  Pope. 

And  now  we  returned  to  Rome.  By  the  way,  we  were 
showed,  at  some  distance,  the  city  Praeneste,  and  the 
Hadrian  villa,  now  only  a  heap  of  ruins;  and  so  came 
late  to  our  lodging. 

We  now  determined  to  desist  from  visiting  any  more 
curiosities,  except  what  should  happen  to  come  in  our 
way,  when  my  companion,  Mr.  Henshaw,  or  myself  should 
go  to  take  the  air:  only  I  may  not  omit  that  one  after- 
noon, diverting  ourselves  in  the  Piazza  Navona,  a  mounte- 
bank there  to  allure  curious  strangers,  taking  off  a  ring 
from  his  finger,  which  seemed  set  with  a  dull,  dark  stone 
a  little  swelling  out,  like  what  we  call  (though  untruly) 
a  toadstone,  and  wetting  his  finger  a  little  in  his  mouth, 
and  then  touching  it,  it  emitted  a  luculent  flame  as  bright 


i8o  DIARY   OF  rome 

and  large  as  a  small  wax  candle;  then,  blowing  it  out, 
repeated  this  several  times.  I  have  much  regretted  that 
I  did  not  purchase  the  receipt  of  him  for  making  that 
composition  at  what  price  soever;  for  though  there 
is  a  process  in  Jo.  Baptista  Porta  and  others  how  to  do 
it,  yet  on  several  trials  they  none  of  them  have  suc- 
ceeded. 

Among  other  observations  I  made  in  Rome  are  these: 
as  to  coins  and  medals,  ten  asses  make  the  Roman  denarius, 
five  the  quinarius,  ten  denarii  an  aureus;  which  accompt 
runs  almost  exactly  with  what  is  now  in  use  of  quatrini, 
baiocs,  julioSy  and  scudi,  each  exceeding  the  other  in  the 
proportion  of  ten.  The  sestertius  was  a  small  silver  coin, 
marked  h.  s.  or  rather  ll%  valued  two  pounds  and  a 
half  of  silver,  viz,  250  de?iarii,  about  twenty-five  golden 
ducati.  The  stamp  of  the  Roman  denarius  varied,  having 
sometimes  a  Janus  bifrons,  the  head  of  Roma  armed,  or 
with  a  chariot  and  two  horses,  which  were  called  bigi; 
if  with  four,  quadrigi:  if  with  a  Victoria,  so  named. 
The  mark  of  the  denarius  was  distinguished  >  |  <  thus, 
or  X;  the  quinarius  of  half  value,  had,  on  one  side,  the 
head  of  Rome  and  V;  the  reverse.  Castor  and  Pollux  on 
horseback,  inscribed  Roma,  etc. 

I  observed  that  in  the  Greek  church  they  made  the 
sigfn  of  the  cross  from  the  right  hand  to  the  left;  con- 
trary to  the  Latins  and  the  schismatic  Greeks;  gave  the 
benediction  with  the  first,  second,  and  little  finger 
stretched  out,  retaining  the  third  bent  down,  expressing 
a  distance  of  the  third  Person  of  the  Holy  Trinity  from 
the  first  two. 

For  sculptors  and  architects,  we  found  Bernini  and 
Algardi  were  in  the  greatest  esteem;  Fiamingo,  as  a 
statuary;  who  made  the  Andrea  in  St.  Peter's,  and  is 
said  to  have  died  mad  because  it  was  placed  in  an  ill 
light.  Among  the  painters,  Antonio  de  la  Cornea,  who 
has  such  an  address  of  counterfeiting  the  hands  of  the 
ancient  masters  so  well  as  to  make  his  copies  pass  for 
originals;  Pietro  de  Cortone,  Monsieur  Poussin,  a  French- 
man, and  innumerable  more.  Fioravanti,  for  armor, 
plate,  dead  life,  tapestry,  etc.  The  chief  masters  of 
music,  after  Marc  Antonio,  the  best  treble,  is  Cavalier 
Lauretto,  an  eunuch;  the  next  Cardinal  Bichi's  eunuch, 
Bianchi,  tenor,  and    Nicholai,  bass.      The  Jews  in  Rome 


LORD    WILLIAM  RUSSELL    TAKING  LEAVE   OF 
HIS  CHILDREN,  1683 

Ftiotogravtire  after  a  painting  by  Bridges 


1 645  JOHN  EVELYN  i8i 

wore  red  hats,  till  the  Cardinal  of  Lyons,  being  short- 
sighted, lately  saluted  one  of  them,  thinking  him  to  be 
a  Cardinal  as  he  passed  by  his  coach ;  on  which  an  order 
was  made,  that  they  should  use  only  the  yellow  color. 
There  was  now  at  Rome  one  Mrs.  Ward,  an  English  de- 
votee, who  much  solicited  for  an  order  of  Jesuitesses. 

At  executions  I  saw  one,  a  gentleman,  hanged  in  his 
cloak  and  hat  for  murder.  They  struck  the  malefactor 
with  a  club  that  first  stunned  him,  and  then  cut  his 
throat.  At  Naples  they  use  a  frame,  like  ours  at 
Halifax.* 

It  is  reported  that  Rome  has  been  once  no  less  than 
fifty  miles  in  compass,  now  not  thirteen,  containing  in 
it  3,000  churches  and  chapels,  monasteries,  etc.  It  is 
divided  into  fourteen  regions  or  wards;  has  seven  moun- 
tains, and  as  many  campi  or  valleys;  in  these  are  fair 
parks,  or  gardens,  called  villas,  being  only  places  of 
recess  and  pleasure,  at  some  distance  from  the  streets, 
yet  within  the  walls. 

The  bills  of  exchange  I  took  up  from  my  first  entering 
Italy  till  I  went  from  Rome,  amounting  to  but  616  ducati 
di  banco,  though  I  purchased  many  books,  pictures,  and 
curiosities. 

1 8th  May,  1645.  I  intended  to  have  seen  Loretto,  but, 
being  disappointed  of  moneys  long  expected,  I  was  forced 
to  return  by  the  same  way  I  came,  desiring,  if  possible, 
to  be  at  Venice  by  the  Ascension,  and  therefore  I  di- 
verted to  take  Leghorn  in  the  way,  as  well  to  furnish 
me  with  credit  by  a  merchant  there,  as  to  take  order  for 
transporting  such  collections  as  I  had  made  at  Rome. 
When  on  my  way,  turning  about  to  behold  this  once  and 
yet  glorious  city,  from  an  eminence,  I  did  not,  without 
some  regret,  give  it  my  last  farewell. 

Having  taken  leave  of  our  friends  at  Rome,  where  I 
had  sojourned  now  about  seven  months,  autumn,  winter, 
and  spring,  I  took  coach,  in  company  with  two  courteous 
Italian  gentlemen.  In  the  afternoon,  we  arrived  at  a 
house,  or  rather  castle,  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Parma, 
called  Caprarola,  situate  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  that  over- 
looks a  little  town,  or  rather  a  natural  and  stupendous 
rock;  witness  those  vast  caves  serving  now  for  cellarage, 
where  we  were  entertained  with  most  generous  wine  of  sev- 

*A  g^illDtine. 


1 82  DIARY   OF  SIENNA 

eral  sorts,  being  just  tinder  the  foundation.  The  palace 
was  built  by  the  famous  architect,  Vignola,  at  the  cost 
of  Cardinal  Alex.  Farnese,  in  form  of  an  octagon,  the 
court  in  the  middle  being  exactly  round,  so  as  rather 
to  resemble  a  fort,  or  castle;  yet  the  chambers  within 
are  all  of  them  square,  which  makes  the  walls  exceed- 
ingly thick.  One  of  these  rooms  is  so  artificially  con- 
trived, that  from  the  two  opposite  angles  may  be  heard 
the  least  whisper;  they  say  any  perfect  square  does  it. 
Most  of  the  paintings  are  by  Zuccari.  It  has  a  stately 
entry,  on  which  spouts  an  artificial  fountain  within  the 
porch.  The  hall,  chapel,  and  a  great  number  of  lodging 
chambers  are  remarkable;  but  most  of  all  the  pictures 
and  witty  inventions  of  Hannibal  Caracci;  the  Dead 
Christ  is  incomparable.  Behind  are  the  gardens  full  of 
statues  and  noble  fountains,  especially  that  of  the  Shep- 
herds. After  dinner,  we  took  horse,  and  lay  that  night 
at  Monte  Rossi,  twenty  miles  from  Rome. 

19th  May,  1645.  W®  dined  at  Viterbo,  and  lay  at  St. 
Laurenzo.  Next  day,  at  Radicofani,  and  slept  at  Tur- 
nera, 

2ist  May,  1645.  ^®  dined  at  Sienna,  where  we  could 
not  pass  admiring  the  great  church  built  entirely  both 
within  and  without  with  white  and  black  marble  in  pol- 
ished squares,  by  Macarino,  showing  so  beautiful  after 
a  shower  has  fallen.  The  floor  within  is  of  various  col- 
ored marbles,  representing  the  story  of  both  Testaments, 
admirably  wrought.  Here  lies  Pius  II.  The  bibliot^ca 
is  painted  by  P.  Perrugino  and  Raphael.  The  life  of 
-^neas  Sylvius  is  in  fresco;  in  the  middle  are  the 
Three  Graces,  in  antique  marble,  very  curious,  and  the 
front  of  this  building,  though  Gothic,  is  yet  very  fine. 
Among  other  things,  they  show  St.  Catharine's  dis- 
ciplining cell,  the  door  whereof  is  half  cut  out  into 
chips  by  the  pilgrims  and  devotees,  being  of  deal  wood. 

Setting  out  hence  for  Pisa,  we  went  again  to  see  the 
Duomo  in  which  the  Emperor  Henry  VII.  lies  buried, 
poisoned  by  a  monk  in  the  Eucharist.  The  bending  tower 
was  built  by  Busqueto  Delichio,  a  Grecian  architect,  and 
is  a  stupendous  piece  of  art.  In  the  gallery  of  curiosities 
is  a  fair  mummy:  the  tail  of  a  sea-horse;  coral  growing 
on  a  man's  skull ;  a  chariot  automaton ;  two  pieces  of  rock 
crystal,  in  one  of  which  is  a  drop  of  water,  in  the  other 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  183 

three  or  four  small  worms;  two  embalmed  children;  divers 
petrifactions,  etc.  The  garden  of  simples  is  well  furnished, 
and  has  in  it  the  deadly  yew,  or  taxus,  of  the  ancients; 
which  Dr.  Belluccio,  the  superintendent,  affirms  that  his 
workmen  cannot  endure  to  clip  for  above  the  space  of 
half  an  hour  at  a  time,  from  the  pain  of  the  head  which 
surprises  them. 

We  went  hence  from  Leghorn,  by  coach,  where  I  took 
up  ninety  crowns  for  the  rest  of  my  journey,  with  letters 
of  credit  for  Venice,  after  I  had  sufficiently  complained 
of  my  defeat  of  correspondence  at  Rome. 

The  next  day,  I  came  to  Lucca,  a  small  but  pretty 
territory  and  state  of  itself.  The  city  is  neat  and  well 
fortified,  with  noble  and  pleasant  walks  of  trees  on  the 
works,  where  the  gentry  and  ladies  used  to  take  the  air. 
It  is  situate  on  an  ample  plain  by  the  river  Serchio,  yet 
the  country  about  it  is  hilly.  The  Senate-house  is  mag- 
nificent. The  church  of  St.  Michael  is  a  noble  piece,  as 
is  also  St.  Fredian,  more  remarkable  to  us  for  the  corpse 
of  St.  Richard,  an  English  king,*  who  died  here  on  his 
pilgrimage  toward  Rome.     This  epitaph  is  on  his  tomb : 

Htc  rex  Richardus  requtescit,  sceptifer,  altnus; 
Rex  Fuit  Angloruvi;  regnuni  tenet  iste  Poloruin. 
Regnum  demisit;  pro  Christo  cuncta  reliquit. 
Ergo,  Richardum  nobis  debit  Anglia  sanctum. 
Uic  genitor  Sanctce    Wulburgoe  Virginis  alma; 
Est  Vrillebaldi  sancti  simul  et  Vinebaldi, 
Suffragium  quorum  nobis  det  regna  Polorum. 

Next  this,  we  visited  St.  Croce,  an  excellent  structure 
all  of  marble  both  without  and  within,  and  so  adorned 
as  may  vie  with  many  of  the  fairest  even  in  Rome:  wit- 
ness the  huge  cross,  valued  at  ^^  15, 000,  above  all  vener- 
able for  that  sacred  volto  which  ( as  tradition  goes )  was 
miraculously  put  on  the  image  of  Christ,  and  made  by 
Nicodemus,  while  the  artist,  finishing  the  rest  of  the 
body,  was  meditating  what  face  to  set  on  it.  The  in- 
habitants are  exceedingly  civil  to  strangers,  above  all 
places  in  Italy,  and  they  speak  the  purest  Italian.  It  is 
also  cheap  living,  which  causes  travelers  to  set  up  their 
rest  here    more    than   in    Florence,    though  a  more   cele- 

*  What  partictilar  Richard  King  of  England  this  was,  it  is  impossible 
to  say ;  the  tomb  still  exists,  and  has  long  been  a  crux  to  antiquaries 
and  travelers. 


1 84  DIARY   OP  piSTORiA 

brated  city ;  besides,  the  ladies  here  are  very  conversable, 
and  the  religious  women  not  at  all  reserved ;  of  these  we 
bought  gloves  and  embroidered  stomachers,  generally 
worn  by  gentlemen  in  these  countries.  The  circuit  of 
this  state  is  but  two  easy  days'  journey,  and  lies  mixed 
with  the  Duke  of  Tuscany's  but  having  Spain  for  a  pro- 
tector (though  the  least  bigoted  of  all  Roman  Catholics), 
and  being  one  of  the  fortified  cities  in  Italy,  it  remains 
in  peace.  The  whole  country  abounds  in  excellent 
olives,  etc. 

Going  hence  for  Florence,  we  dined  at  Pistoria,  where, 
besides  one  church,  there  was  little  observable:  only  in 
the  highway  we  crossed  a  rivulet  of  salt  water,  though 
many  miles  from  the  sea.  The  country  is  extremely 
pleasant,  full  of  gardens,  and  the  roads  straight  as  a  line 
for  the  best  part  of  that  whole  day,  the  hedges  planted 
with  trees  at  equal  distances,  watered  with  clear  and 
plentiful  streams. 

Rising  early  the  next  morning  we  arrived  at  Peggio  Im- 
periale,  being  a  palace  of  the  Great  Duke,  not  far 
from  the  city,  having  omitted  it  in  my  passage  to  Rome. 
The  ascent  to  the  house  is  by  a  stately  gallery  as  it  were 
of  tall  and  overgrown  cypress  trees  for  near  half  a  mile. 
At  the  entrance  of  these  ranges,  are  placed  statues  of  the 
Tiber  and  Arno,  of  marble;  those  also  of  Virgil,  Ovid, 
Petrarch,  and  Dante.  The  building  is  sumptuous,  and 
curiously  furnished  within  with  cabinets  of  pietra-com- 
messa  in  tables,  pavements,  etc. ,  which  is  a  magnificence, 
or  work,  particularly  affected  at  Florence.  The  pictures 
are,  Adam  and  Eve  by  Albert  Durer,  very  excellent;  as 
is  that  piece  of  carving  in  wood  by  the  same  hand  stand- 
ing in  a  cupboard.  Here  is  painted  the  whole  Austrian 
line;  the  Duke's  mother,  sister  to  the  Emperor,  the  foun- 
dress of  this  palace,  than  which  there  is  none  in  Italy 
that  I  had  seen  more  magnificently  adorned,  or  furnished. 

We  could  not  omit  in  our  passage  to  re-visit  the  same, 
and  other  curiosities  which  we  had  neglected  on  our  first 
being  at  Florence.  We  went,  therefore,  to  see  the  famous 
piece  of  Andrea  del  Sarto,  in  the  Annunciata.  The  story 
is,  that  the  painter  in  a  time  of  dearth  borrowed  a  sack  of 
corn  of  the  religious  of  that  convent,  and  repayment  being 
demanded,  he  wrought  it  out  in  this  picture,  which  repre- 
sents Joseph  sitting  on  a  sack  of  corn,  and  reading  to  the 


1 645  JOHN  EVELYN  i8 

Blessed  Virgfin;  a  piece  infinitely  valued.  There  fell  down 
in  the  cloister  an  old  man's  face  painted  on  the  wall  in 
fresco,  greatly  esteemed,  and  broke  into  crumbs;  the 
Duke  sent  his  best  painters  to  make  another  instead  of 
it,  but  none  of  them  would  presume  to  touch  a  pencil 
where  Andrea  had  wrought,  like  another  Apelles;  but 
one  of  them  was  so  industrious  and  patient,  that,  pick- 
ing up  the  fragfments,  he  laid  and  fastened  them  so 
artificially  together,  that  the  injury  it  had  received  was 
hardly  discernible.  Andrea  del  Sarto  lies  buried  in  the 
same  place.  Here  is  also  that  picture  of  Bartolomeo, 
who  hax-ing  spent  his  utmost  skill  in  the  face  of  the  angel 
Gabriel,  and  being  troubled  that  he  could  not  exceed  it  in 
the  Virgin,  he  began  the  body  and  to  finish  the  clothes, 
and  so  left  it,  minding  in  the  morning  to  work  on  the  face ; 
but,  when  he  came,  no  sooner  had  he  drawn  away  the  cloth 
that  was  hung  before  it  to  preserve  it  from  the  dust,  than 
an  admirable  and  ravishing  face  was  found  ready  painted ; 
at  which  miracle  all  the  city  came  in  to  worship.  It  is  now 
kept  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Salutation,  a  place  so  enriched  by 
devotees,  that  none  in  Italy,  save  Loretto,  is  said  to  exceed 
it.  This  picture  is  always  covered  with  three  shutters,  one 
of  which  is  of  massy  silver;  methinks  it  is  very  brown,  the 
forehead  and  cheeks  whiter,  as  if  it  had  been  scraped. 
They  report  that  those  who  have  the  honor  of  seeing  it 
never  lose  their  sight  —  happy  then  we !  Belonging  to  this 
church  is  a  world  of  plate,  some  whole  statues  of  it,  and 
lamps  innumerable,  besides  the  costly  vows  hung  up,  some 
of  gold,  and  a  cabinet  of  precious  stones. 

Visiting  the  Duke's  repository  again,  we  told  at 
least  forty  ranks  of  porphyr}'-  and  other  statues,  and 
twenty-eight  whole  figures,  many  rare  paintings  and  re- 
lievos, two  square  columns  with  trophies.  In  one  of  the 
galleries,  twenty-four  figures,  and  fifty  antique  heads;  a 
Bacchus  of  M.  Angelo,  and  one  of  Bandinelli;  a  head  of 
Bernini,  and  a  most  lovely  Cupid,  of  Parian  marble;  at 
the  further  end,  two  admirable  women  sitting,  and  a  man 
fighting  with  a  centaur ;  three  figures  in  little  of  Andrea ; 
a  huge  candlestick  of  amber;  a  table  of  Titian's  painting, 
and  another  representing  God  the  Father  sitting  in  the 
air  on  the  Four  Evangelists;  animals;  divers  smaller 
pieces  of  Raphael ;  a  piece  of  pure  virgin  gold,  as  big  as 
an  ^%Z,     In  the  third    chamber  of   rarities  is   the  square 


1 86  DIARY  OF  Florence 

cabinet,  valued  at  80,000  crowns,  showing  on  every  front, 
a  variety  of  curious  work;  one  of  birds  and  flowers,  of 
pietra-commessa\  one,  a  descent  from  the  cross,  of  M. 
Angelo;  on  the  third,  our  Blessed  Savior  and  the  Apostles, 
of  amber;  and,  on  the  fourth,  a  crucifix  of  the  same. 
Between  the  pictures,  two  naked  Venuses,  by  Titian; 
Adam  and  Eve,  by  Durer;  and  several  pieces  of  Portde- 
none,  and  del  Frate.  There  is  a  globe  of  six  feet  diame- 
ter. In  the  Armory,  were  an  entire  elk,  a  crocodile,  and 
among  the  harness,  several  targets  and  antique  horse- 
arms,  as  that  of  Charles  V. ;  two  set  with  turquoises,  and 
other  precious  stones;  a  horse's  tail,  of  a  wonderful 
length.  Then,  passing  the  Old  Palace,  which  has  a  very 
great  hall  for  feasts  and  comedies,  the  roof  rarely  painted, 
and  the  side  walls  with  six  very  large  pictures  represent- 
ing battles,  the  work  of  Gio.  Vassari.  Here  is  a  maga- 
zine full  of  plate;  a  harness  of  emeralds;  the  furnitures 
of  an  altar  four  feet  high,  and  six  in  length,  of  massy 
gold;  in  the  middle  is  placed  the  statue  of  Cosmo 
II.,  the  bass-relievo  is  of  precious  stones,  his  breeches 
covered  with  diamonds;  the  moldings  of  this  statue,  and 
other  ornaments,  festoons,  etc.,  are  garnished  with  jewels 
and  great  pearls,  dedicated  to  St.  Charles,  with  this  in- 
scription, in  rubies: 

*<  Cosimus  Secundus  Dei  gratia  Magnus  Dux  EtruricB  ex  voto^ 

There  is  also  a  King  on  horseback,  of  massy  gold,  two 
feet  high,  and  an  infinity  of  such  like  rarities.  Looking 
at  the  Justice,  in  copper,  set  up  on  a  column  by  Cosmo, 
in  1555,  after  the  victory  over  Sienna,  we  were  told  that 
the  Duke,  asking  a  gentleman  how  he  liked  the  piece,  he 
answered,  that  he  liked  it  very  well,  but  that  it  stood  too 
high  for  poor  men  to  come  at  it. 

Prince  Leopold  has,  in  this  city,  a  very  excellent  col- 
lection of  paintings,  especially  a  St.  Catherine  of  P.  Ver- 
onese ;  a  Venus  of  marble,  veiled  from  the  middle  to  the 
feet,  esteemed  to  be  of  that  Greek  workman  who  made 
the  Venus  at  the  Medici's  Palace  in  Rome,  altogether  as 
good,  and  better  preserved,  an  inestimable  statue,  not 
long  since  found  about  Bologna. 

Signor  Gaddi  is  a  lettered  person,  and  has  divers  rari- 
ties, statues,  and  pictures  of  the  best  masters,  and  one 
bust  of  marble  as  much  esteemed  as  the  most  antique  in 


i6i5  JOHN   EVELYN  187 

Italy,  and  many  curious  manuscripts;  his  best  paintings 
are,  a  Virgin  of  del  Sarto,  mentioned  by  Vassari,  a  St. 
John,  by  Raphael,  and  an  Ecce  Homo,  by  Titian. 

The  hall  of  the  Academy  de  la  Crusca  is  hung  about 
with  impresses  and  devices  painted,  all  of  them  relating 
to  corn  sifted  from  the  bran;  the  seats  are  made  like 
breadbaskets  and  other  rustic  instruments  used  about 
wheat,  and  the  cushions  of  satin,  like  sacks. 

We  took  our  farewell  of  St.  Laurence,  more  particularly 
noticing  that  piece  of  the  Resurrection,  which  consists  of  a 
prodigious  number  of  naked  figxires,  the  work  of  Pontormo. 
On  the  left  hand  is  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Laurence,  by 
Bronzino,  rarely  painted  indeed.  In  a  chapel  is  the  tomb 
of  Pietro  di  Medici,  and  his  brother  John,  of  copper, 
excellently  designed,  standing  on  two  lions'  feet,  which 
end  in  foliage,  the  work  of  M.  Angelo.  Over  against  this, 
are  sepulchres  of  all  the  ducal  family.  The  altar  has  a 
statue  of  the  Virgin  giving  suck,  and  two  Apostles. 
Paulus  Jovius  has  the  honor  to  be  buried  in  the  cloister. 
Behind  the  choir  is  the  superb  chapel  of  Ferdinand  I., 
consisting  of  eight  faces,  four  plain,  four  a  little  hollowed ; 
in  the  other  are  to  be  the  sepulchres,  and  a  niche  of 
paragon,  for  the  statue  of  the  prince  now  living,  all  of 
copper  gilt;  above,  is  a  large  table  of  porphyry,  for  an 
inscription  for  the  Duke,  in  letters  of  jasper.  The  whole 
chapel,  walls,  pavement,  and  roof,  are  full  of  precious 
stones  united  with  the  moldings,  which  are  also  of  gilded 
copper,  and  so  are  the  bases  and  capitals  of  the  columns. 
The  tabernacle,  with  the  whole  altar,  is  inlaid  with  cor- 
nelians, lazuli,  serpentine,  agates,  onyxes,  etc.  On  the 
other  side  are  six  very  large  columns  of  rock  crystal, 
eight  figures  of  precious  stones  of  several  colors,  inlaid  in 
natural  figures,  not  inferior  to  the  best  paintings,  among 
which  are  many  pearls,  diamonds,  amethysts,  topazes, 
sumptuous  and  sparkling  beyond  description.  The  win- 
dows without  side  are  of  white  marble.  The  library  is 
the  architecture  of  Raphael;  before  the  port  is  a  square 
vestibule  of  excellent  art,  of  all  the  orders,  without  con- 
fusion; the  ascent  to  it  from  the  library  is  excellent. 
We  numbered  eighty-eight  shelves,  all  MSS.  and  bound  in 
red,  chained;  in  all  about  3,500  volumes,  as  they  told  us. 

The  Arsenal  has  sufHcient  to  arm  70,000  men,  accurately 
preserved  and  kept,  with  divers  lusty  pieces  of  ordnance. 


1 88  DIARY    OF  bologna 

whereof  one  is  for  a  ball  of  300  pounds  weight,  and 
another  for  160,  which  weighs  72,500  pounds. 

When  I  was  at  Florence,  the  celebrated  masters  were: 
for  pietra-commessa  (a  kind  of  mosaic,  or  inlaying,  of 
various  colored  marble,  and  other  more  precious  stones), 
Dominico  Benetti  and  Mazotti ;  the  best  statuary,  Vincentio 
Brochi.  This  statuary  makes  those  small  figures  in  plaster 
and  pasteboard,  which  so  resemble  copper  that,  till  one 
handles  them,  they  cannot  be  distinguished,  he  has  so  rare 
an  art  of  bronzing  them ;  I  bought  four  of  him.  The  best 
painter,  Pietro  Beretino  di  Cortona. 

This  Duke  has  a  daily  tribute  for  every  courtezan,  or 
prostitute,  allowed  to  practice  that  infamous  trade  in  his 
dominions,  and  so  has  his  Holiness  the  Pope,  but  not  so 
much  in  value. 

Taking  leave  of  our  two  jolly  companions,  Signor  Gio- 
vanni and  his  fellow,  we  took  horses  for  Bologna;  and, 
by  the  way,  alighted  at  a  villa  of  the  Grand  Duke's, 
called  Pratolino.  The  house  is  a  square  of  four  pavil- 
ions, with  a  fair  platform  about  it,  balustred  with  stone, 
situate  in  a  large  meadow,  ascending  like  an  amphithea- 
ter, having  at  the  bottom  a  huge  rock,  with  water  run- 
ning in  a  small  channel,  like  a  cascade;  on  the  other 
side,  are  the  gardens.  The  whole  place  seems  conse- 
crated to  pleasure  and  summer  retirement.  The  inside 
of  the  palace  may  compare  with  any  in  Italy  for  furni- 
ture of  tapestry,  beds,  etc.,  and  the  gardens  are  deli- 
cious, and  full  of  fountains.  In  the  grove  sits  Pan  feeding 
his  fi[ock,  the  water  making  a  melodious  sound  through 
his  pipe;  and  a  Hercules,  whose  club  yields  a  shower  of 
water,  which,  falling  into  a  great  shell,  has  a  naked 
woman  riding  on  the  backs  of  dolphins.  In  another 
grotto  is  Vulcan  and  his  family,  the  walls  richly  com- 
posed of  corals,  shells,  copper,  and  marble  figures,  with 
the  hunting  of  several  beasts,  moving  by  the  force  of 
water.  Here,  having  been  well  washed  for  our  curiosity, 
we  went  down  a  large  walk,  at  the  sides  whereof  several 
slender  streams  of  water  gush  out  of  pipes  concealed  un- 
derneath, that  interchangeably  fall  into  each  other's  chan- 
nels, making  a  lofty  and  perfect  arch,  so  that  a  man  on 
horseback  may  ride  under  it,  and  not  receive  one  drop 
of  wet.  This  canopy,  or  arch  of  water,  I  thought  one 
of   the   most   surprising  magnificences  I   had  ever  seen, 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  189 

and  very  refreshing  in  the  heat  of  the  summer.  At  the 
end  of  this  very  long  walk,  stands  a  woman  in  white 
marble,  in  posture  of  a  laundress  wringing  water  out  of 
a  piece  of  linen,  very  naturally  formed,  into  a  vast  laver, 
the  work  and  invention  of  M.  Angelo  Buonarotti.  Hence, 
we  ascended  Mount  Parnassus,  where  the  Muses  played 
to  us  on  hydraulic  organs.  Near  this  is  a  great  aviary. 
All  these  waters  came  from  the  rock  in  the  garden,  on 
which  is  the  statue  of  a  giant  representing  the  Apen- 
nines, at  the  foot  of  which  stands  this  villa.  Last  of  all, 
we  came  to  the  labyrinth,  in  which  a  huge  colosse  of 
Jupiter  throws  out  a  stream  over  the  garden.  This  is 
fifty  feet  in  height,  having  in  his  body  a  square  cham- 
ber, his  eyes  and  mouth  serving    for  windows  and  door. 

We  took  horse  and  supped  that  night  at  II  Ponte,  pass- 
ing a  dreadful  ridge  of  the  Apennines,  in  many  places 
capped  with  snow,  which  covers  them  the  whole  summer. 
We  then  descended  into  a  luxurious  and  rich  plain.  The 
next  day  we  passed  through  Scarperia,  mounting  the 
hills  again,  where  the  passage  is  so  straight  and  precip- 
itous toward  the  right  hand,  that  we  climbed  them  with 
much  care  and  danger;  lodging  at  Firenzuolo,  which  is 
a  fort  built  among  the  rocks,  and  defending  the  confines 
of  the  Great  Duke's  territories. 

The  next  day  we  passed  by  the  Pietramala,  a  burn- 
ing mountain.  At  the  summit  of  this  prodigious  mass 
of  hills,  we  had  an  unpleasant  way  to  Pianura,  where  we 
slept  that  night  and  were  entertained  with  excellent 
wine.  Hence  to  Scargalasino,  and  to  bed  at  Loiano. 
This  plain  begins  about  six  miles  from  Bologna. 

Bologna  belongs  to  the  Pope,  and  is  a  famous  Univer- 
sity, situate  in  one  of  the  richest  spots  of  Europe  for  all 
sorts  of  provisions.  It  is  built  like  a  ship,  whereof  the 
Torre  d'Asinelli  may  go  for  the  mainmast.  The  city  is 
of  no  great  strength,  having  a  trifling  wall  about  it,  in 
circuit  near  five  miles,  and  two  in  length.  This  Torre 
d'Asinelli,  ascended  by  447  steps  of  a  foot  rise,  seems 
exceedingly  high,  is  very  narrow,  and  the  more  con- 
spicuous from  another  tower  called  Garisendi,  so  artifi- 
cially built  of  brick  (which  increases  the  wonder)  that  it 
seems  ready  to  fall.  It  is  not  now  so  high  as  the  other; 
but  they  say  the  upper  part  was  formerly  taken  down, 
for  fear  it  should  really  fall,  and  do  mischief. 


190  DIARY   OF  bologna 

Next,  we  went  to  see  an  imperfect  church,  called  St. 
Petronius,  showing  the  intent  of  the  founder,  had  he 
gone  on.  From  this,  our  guide  led  us  to  the  schools,  which 
indeed  are  very  magnificent.  Thence  to  St.  Dominic's, 
where  that  saint's  body  lies  richly  enshrined.  The  stalls, 
or  seats,  of  this  goodly  church  have  the  history  of  the  Bible 
inlaid  with  several  woods,  very  curiously  done,  the  work 
of  one  Fr.  Damiano  di  Bergamo,  and  a  friar  of  that 
order.  Among  other  relics,  they  show  the  two  books  of 
Esdras,  written  with  his  own  hand.  Here  lie  buried  Jac, 
Andreas,  and  divers  other  learned  persons.  To  the 
church  joins  the  convent,  in  the  quadrangle  whereof  are 
old  cypresses,  said  to  have  been   planted   by  their  saint. 

Then  we  went  to  the  palace  of  the  Legate;  a  fair 
brick  building,  as  are  most  of  the  houses  and  buildings, 
full  of  excellent  carving  and  moldings,  so  as  nothing  in 
stone  seems  to  be  better  finished  or  more  ornamental ;  wit- 
ness those  excellent  columns  to  be  seen  in  many  of  their 
churches,  convents,  and  public  buildings;  for  the  whole 
town  is  so  cloistered,  that  one  may  pass  from  house  to 
house  through  the  streets  without  being  exposed  either 
to  rain  or  sun. 

Before  the  stately  hall  of  this  palace  stands  the  statue 
of  Paul  IV.  and  divers  others;  also  the  monument  of 
the  coronation  of  Charles  V.  The  piazza  before  it  is 
the  most  stately  in  Italy,  St.  Mark's  at  Venice  only  ex- 
cepted. In  the  center  of  it  is  a  fountain  of  Neptune,  a 
noble  figure  in  copper.  Here  I  saw  a  Persian  walking 
about  in  a  rich  vest  of  cloth  of  tissue,  and  several  other 
ornaments,  according  to  the  fashion  of  his  country,  which 
much  pleased  me;  he  was  a  young  handsome  person,  of 
the  most  stately  mien. 

I  would  fain  have  seen  the  library  of  St.  Savior,  fa- 
mous for  the  number  of  rare  manuscripts ;  but  could  not, 
so  we  went  to  St.  Francis,  a  glorious  pile,  and  exceed- 
ingly adorned  within. 

After  dinner  I  inquired  out  a  priest  and  Dr.  Montal- 
bano,  to  whom  I  brought  recommendations  from  Rome: 
this  learned  person  invented,  or  found  out,  the  composi- 
tion of  the  lapis  illuminabilis,  or  phosphorus.  He  showed 
me  their  property  (for  he  had  several),  being  to  retain 
the  light  of  the  sun  for  some  competent  time,  by  a  kind 
of  imbibition,  by  a  particular  way  of  calcination.     Some 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  191 

of  these  presented  a  blue  color,  like  the  flame  of  brim- 
stone, others  like  coals  of  a  kitchen  fire.  The  rest  of 
the  afternoon  was  taken  up  in  St.  Michael  in  Bosco, 
built  on  a  steep  hill  on  the  edge  of  the  city,  for  its 
fabric,  pleasant  shade  and  groves,  cellars,  dormitory,  and 
prospects,  one  of  the  most  delicious  retirements  I  ever 
saw;  art  and  nature  contending  which  shall  ekceed;  so 
as  till  now  I  never  envied  the  life  of  a  friar.  The  whole 
town  and  country  to  a  vast  extent  are  under  command 
of  their  eyes,  almost  as  far  as  Venice  itself.  In  this 
convent  there  are  many  excellent  paintings  of  Guido 
Reni;  above  all,  the  little  cloister  of  eight  faces,  painted 
by  Caracci  in  fresco.  The  carvings  in  wood,  in  the 
sacristy,  are  admirable,  as  is  the  inlaid  work  about  the 
chapel,  which  even  emulates  the  best  paintings;  the  work 
is  so  delicate  and  tender.  The  paintings  of  the  Savior 
are  of  Caracci  and  Leonardo,  and  there  are  excellent 
things  of  Raphael  which  we  could  not  see. 

In  the  church  of  St.  John  is  a  fine  piece  of  St.  Cecilia, 
by  Raphael.  As  to  other  paintings,  there  is  in  the 
church  of  St.  Gregory  an  excellent  picture  of  a  Bishop 
giving  the  habit  of  St.  Bernard  to  an  armed  soldier, 
with  several  other  figures  in  the  piece,  the  work  of 
Guerchino.  Indeed,  this  city  is  full  of  rare  pieces,  espe- 
cially of  Guido  Domenico,  and  a  virgin  named  Isabella 
Sirani,  now  living,  who  has  painted  many  excellent 
pieces,  and  imitates  Guido  so  well,  that  many  skillful 
artists  have  been  deceived. 

At  the  Mendicants  are  the  Miracles  of  St.  Eloy,  by 
Reni,  after  the  manner  of  Caravaggio,  but  better;  and 
here  they  showed  us  that  famous  piece  of  Christ  calling 
St.  Matthew,  by  Annibal  Caracci.  The  Marquis  Magni- 
ani  has  the  whole  frieze  of  his  hall  painted  in  fresco  by 
the  same  hand. 

Many  of  the  religious  men  nourish  those  lapdogs 
which  the  ladies  are  so  fond  of,  and  which  they  here 
sell.  They  are  a  pigmy  sort  of  spaniels,  whose  noses  they 
break  when  puppies ;  which,  in  my  opinion,  deforms  them. 

At  the  end  of  the  turning  in  one  of  the  wings  of  the 
dormitory  of  St.  Michael,  I  found  a  paper  pasted  near 
the  window,  containing  the  dimensions  of  most  of  the 
famous  churches  in  Italy  compared  with  their  towers 
here,  and  the  length  of  this  gallery,  a  copy  whereof  I  took. 


192 


DIARY  OF 


FERRARA 


Braccia* 

Piedi  di  Bolognia 

Canna  di 
Roma. 

St.  Pietro  di  Roma,  longo 
Cupalo  del  muro,  alta    .     . 
Torre  d'  Asinello,  alto 
Dormitorio  de  St.  Mich,  a 
Bologn.  longo    .... 

284 
210 
2o8| 

254 

473 
350 
348 

423 

84 
60 
59  pr.  "•  6 

12% 

From  hence  being  brought  to  a  subterranean  territory 
of  cellars,  the  courteous  friars  made  us  taste  a  variety  of 
excellent  wines;  and  so  we  departed  to   our  inn. 

The  city  is  famous  also  for  sausages;  and  here  is  sold 
great  quantities  of  Parmegiano  cheese,  with  Botargo, 
Caviare,  etc.,  which  makes  some  of  their  shops  perfume 
the  streets  with  no  agreeable  smell.  We  furnished  our- 
selves with  wash  balls,  the  best  being  made  here, 
and  being  a  considerable  commodity.  This  place  has  also 
been  celebrated  for  lutes  made  by  the  old  masters,  Mollen, 
Hans  Frey,  and  Nicholas  Sconvelt,  which  were  of  extraor- 
dinary price;  the  workmen  were  chiefly  Germans.  The 
cattle  used  for  draught  in  this  country  (which  is  very  rich 
and  fertile,  especially  in  pasturage)  are  covered  with 
housings  of  linen  fringed  at  the  bottom,  that  dangle  about 
them,  preserving  them  from  flies,  which  in  summer  are 
very  troublesome. 

From  this  pleasant  city,  we  proceeded  toward  Ferrara, 
carrying  with  us  a  bulletino,  or  bill  of  health  ( customary 
in  all  these  parts  of  Italy,  especially  in  the  State  of 
Venice )  and  so  put  ourselves  into  a  boat  that  was  towed 
with  horses,  often  interrupted  by  the  sluices  (inventions 
there  to  raise  the  water  for  the  use  of  mills,  and  to  fill 
the  artificial  canals)  at  each  of  which  we  stayed  till 
passage  was  made.  We  went  by  the  Castle  Bentivoglio, 
and,  about  night  arrived  at  an  ugly  inn  called  Mai  Al- 
bergo,  agreeable  to  its  name,  whence,  after  we  had  supped, 
we  embarked  and  passed  that  night  through  the  Fens, 
where  we  were  so  pestered  with  those  flying  glow- 
worms, called  Luccioli,  that  one  who  had  never  heard  of 
them,  would  think  the  country  full  of  sparks  of  fire. 
Beating  some  of  them  down  and  applying  them  to  a 
book,  I  could  read  in  the  dark  by  the  light  they  afforded. 

Quitting  our  boat,  we  took  coach,  and  by  morning  got 
to  Ferrara,  where,  before   we    could   gain    entrance,  our 

*A  measure  of  half  an  elL 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  193 

guns  and  arms  were  taken  from  us  of  custom,  the  lock 
being-  taken  off  before,  as  we  were  advised.  The  city  is 
in  a  low  marshy  country,  and  therefore  well  fortified. 
The  houses  and  streets  have  nothing  of  beauty,  except 
the  palace  and  church  of  St.  Benedict,  where  Ariosto  lies 
buried,  and  there  are  some  good  statues,  the  palazzo  del 
Diamante,  citadel,  church  of  St.  Dominico.  The  market- 
place is  very  spacious,  having  in  its  centre  the  figure  of 
Nicholao  Olao  once  Duke  of  Ferrara,  on  horseback,  in 
copper.  It  is,  in  a  word,  a  dirty  town,  and,  though  the 
streets  be  large  they  remain  ill  paved;  yet  it  is  a  Uni- 
versity and  now  belongs  to  the  Pope.  Though  there  are 
not  many  fine  houses  in  the  city,  the  inn  where  we 
lodged  was  a  very  noble  palace,  having  an  Angel  for  its 
sign. 

We  parted  from  hence  about  three  in  the  afternoon, 
and  went  some  of  our  way  on  the  canal,  and  then  embarked 
on  the  Po ;  or  Padus ;  by  the  poets  called  Eridanus,  where 
they  feign  Phaeton  to  have  fallen  after  his  rash  attempt, 
and  where  lo  was  metamorphosed  into  a  cow.  There 
was  in  our  company,  among  others,  a  Polonian  Bishop, 
who  was  exceeding  civil  to  me  in  this  passage,  and  after- 
ward did  me  many  kindnesses  at  Venice.  We  supped 
this  night  at  a  place  called  Corbua,  near  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city,  Adria,  which  gives  name  to  the  Gulf,  or 
Sea.  After  three  miles,  having  passed  thirty  on  the  Po, 
we  embarked  in  a  stout  vessel,  and  through  an  artificial 
caaal,  very  straight,  we  entered  the  Adige,  which  carried 
us  by  break  of  day  into  the  Adriatic,  and  so  sailing  pros- 
perously by  Chioza  (a  town  upon  an  island  in  this  sea), 
and  Palestina,  we  came  over  against  Malamocco  (the  chief 
port  and  anchorage  where  our  English  merchantmen  lie 
that  trade  to  Venice)  about  seven  at  night,  after  we  had 
stayed  at  least  two  hours  for  permission  to  land,  our  bill 
of  health  being  delivered,  according  to  custom.  So  soon 
as  we  came  on  shore,  we  were  conducted  to  the  Dogana, 
where  our  portmanteaus  were  visited,  and  then  we  got 
to  our  lodging,  which  was  at  honest  Signor  Paulo  Rhodo- 
mante's  at  the  Black  Eagle,  near  the  Rialto,  one  of  the 
best  quarters  of  the  town.  This  journey  from  Rome  to 
Venice  cost  me  seven  pistoles,  and  thirteen  julios. 

June,   1645.      The   next    morning,    finding   myself    ex- 
tremely  weary  and   beaten    with  my   journey,  I  went  to 
13 


194  DIARY  OF  VENICE 

one  of  their  bagnios,  where  you  are  treated  after  the 
eastern  manner,  washing  with  hot  and  cold  water,  with 
oils,  and  being  rubbed  with  a  kind  of  strigil  of  seal- 
skin, put  on  the  operator's  hand  like  a  glove.  This  bath 
did  so  open  my  pores,  that  it  cost  me  one  of  the  greatest 
colds  I  ever  had  in  my  life,  for  want  of  necessary  caution 
in  keeping  myself  warm  for  some  time  after ;  for,  coming 
out,  I  immediately  began  to  visit  the  famous  places  of 
the  city;  and  travelers  who  come  into  Italy  do  nothing 
but  run  up  and  down  to  see  sights,  and  this  city  well 
deserved  our  admiration,  being  the  most  wonderfully 
placed  of  any  in  the  world,  built  on  so  many  hundred 
islands,  in  the  very  sea,  and  at  good  distance  from  the 
continent.  It  has  no  fresh  water  except  what  is  reserved 
in  cistern  from  rain,  and  such  as  is  daily  brought  from 
terra  firma  in  boats,  yet  there  was  no  want  of  it,  and  all 
sorts  of  excellent  provisions  were  very  cheap. 

It  is  said  that  when  the  Huns  overran  Italy,  some 
mean  fishermen  and  others  left  the  mainland,  and  fled 
for  shelter  to  these  despicable  and  muddy  islands,  which, 
in  process  of  time,  by  industry,  are  grown  to  the  great- 
ness of  one  of  the  most  considerable  States,  considered 
as  a  Republic,  and  having  now  subsisted  longer  than  any 
of  the  four  ancient  Monarchies,  flourishing  in  great  state, 
wealth,  and  glory,  by  the  conquest  of  great  territories  in 
Italy,  Dacia,  Greece,  Candia,  Rhodes,  and  Sclavonia,  and 
at  present  challenging  the  empire  of  all  the  Adriatic  Sea, 
which  they  yearly  espouse  by  casting  a  gold  ring 
into  it  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony,  on  Ascension-day; 
the  desire  of  seeing  this  was  one  of  the  reasons  that 
hastened  us  from  Rome. 

The  Doge,  having  heard  mass  in  his  robes  of  state 
(which  are  very  particular,  after  the  eastern  fashion), 
together  with  the  Senate  in  their  gowns,  embarked  in 
their  gloriously  painted,  carved,  and  gilded  Bucentora, 
environed  and  followed  by  innumerable  galleys,  gondo- 
las, and  boats,  filled  with  spectators,  some  dressed  in 
masquerade,  trumpets,  music,  and  cannons.  Having 
rowed  about  a  league  into  the  Gulf,  the  Duke,  at  the 
prow,  casts  a  gold  ring  and  cup  into  the  sea,  at  which  a 
loud  acclamation  is  echoed  from  the  great  guns  of  the 
Arsenal,  and  at  the  Liddo.     We  then  returned. 

Two  days  after,  taking  a  gondola,  which  i«  their  water- 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  195 

coach  (for  land  ones,  there  are  many  old  men  in  this 
city  who  never  saw  one,  or  rarely  a  horse),  we  rode  up 
and  down  the  channels,  which  answer  to  our  streets. 
These  vessels  are  built  very  long  and  narrow,  having 
necks  and  tails  of  steel,  somewhat  spreading  at  the  beak 
like  a  fish's  tail,  and  kept  so  exceedingly  polished  as  to 
give  a  great  lustre;  some  are  adorned  with  carving, 
others  lined  with  velvet  (commonly  black),  with  curtains 
and  tassels,  and  the  seats  like  couches,  to  lie  stretched 
on,  while  he  who  rows,  stands  upright  on  the  very  edge 
of  the  boat,  and,  with  one  oar  bending  forward  as  if  he 
would  fall  into  the  sea,  rows  and  turns  with  incredible 
dexterity;  thus  passing  from  channel  to  channel,  landing 
his  fare,  or  patron,  at  what  house  he  pleases.  The  beaks 
of  these  vessels  are  not  unlike  the  ancient  Roman  ros- 
trums. 

The  first  public  building  I  went  to  see  was  the  Rialto, 
a  bridge  of  one  arch  over  the  grand  canal,  so  large  as  to 
admit  a  galley  to  row  under  it,  built  of  good  marble, 
and  having  on  it,  besides  many  pretty  shops,  three  am- 
ple and  stately  passages  for  people  without  any  incon- 
venience, the  two  outmost  nobly  balustered  with  the  same 
stone;  a  piece  of  architecture  much  to  be  admired.  It 
was  evening,  and  the  canal  where  the  Noblesse  go  to 
take  the  air,  as  in  our  Hyde  Park,  was  full  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen.  There  are  many  times  dangerous  stops,  by 
reason  of  the  multitude  of  gondolas  ready  to  sink  one 
another;  and  indeed  they  affect  to  lean  them  on  one 
side,  that  one  who  is  not  accustomed  to  it,  would  be 
afraid  of  over-setting.  Here  they  were  singing,  playing 
on  harpsichords,  and  other  music,  and  serenading  their 
mistresses;  in  another  place,  racing,  and  other  pastimes 
on  the  water,  it  being  now  exceeding  hot. 

Next  day,  I  went  to  their  Exchange,  a  place  like  ours, 
frequented  by  merchants,  but  nothing  so  magnificent; 
from  thence,  my  gfuide  led  me  to  the  Fondigo  di  Todes- 
chi,  which  is  their  magazine,  and  here  many  of  the 
merchants,  especially  Germans,  have  their  lodging  and 
diet,  as  in  a  college.  The  outside  of  this  stately  fabric 
is  painted  by  Giorgione  da  Castelfranco,  and  Titian 
himself. 

Hence,  I  passed  through  the  Mercera,  one  of  the  most 
delicious   streets   in   the   world   for    the   sweetness   of  it. 


196  DIARY   OF  VENICE 

and  is  all  the  way  on  both  sides  tapestried  as  it  were 
with  cloth  of  gold,  rich  damasks  and  other  silks,  which 
the  shops  expose  and  hang  before  their  houses  from  the 
first  floor,  and  with  that  variety  that  for  near  half  the 
year  spent  chiefly  in  this  city,  I  hardly  remember  to 
have  seen  the  same  piece  twice  exposed;  to  this  add  the 
perfumes,  apothecaries'  shops,  and  the  innumerable  cages 
of  nightingales  which  they  keep,  that  entertain  you 
with  their  melody  from  shop  to  shop,  so  that  shutting 
your  eyes,  you  would  imagine  yourself  in  the  country, 
when  indeed  you  are  in  the  middle  of  the  sea.  It  is 
almost  as  silent  as  the  middle  of  a  field,  there  being 
neither  rattling  of  coaches  nor  trampling  of  horses. 
This  street,  paved  with  brick,  and  exceedingly  clean, 
brought  us  through  an  arch  into  the  famous  piazza  of 
St.  Mark. 

Over  this  porch  stands  that  admirable  clock,  celebrated, 
next  to  that  of  Strasburg,  for  its  many  movements; 
among  which,  about  twelve  and  six,  which  are  their 
hours  of  Ave  Maria,  when  all  the  town  are  on  their  knees, 
come  forth  the  three  Kings  led  by  a  star,  and  passing 
by  the  image  of  Christ  in  his  Mother's  arms,  do  their 
reverence,  and  enter  into  the  clock  by  another  door. 
At  the  top  of  this  turret,  another  automaton  strikes  the 
quarters.  An  honest  merchant  told  me  that  one  day 
walking  in  the  piazza,  he  saw  the  fellow  who  kept  the 
clock  struck  with  this  hammer  so  forcibly,  as  he  was 
stooping  his  head  near  the  bell,  to  mend  something  amiss 
at  the  instant  of  striking,  that  being  stunned,  he  reeled 
over  the  battlements,  and  broke  his  neck.  The  buildings 
in  this  piazza  are  all  arched,  on  pillars,  paved  within 
with  black  and  white  polished  marble,  even  to  the  shops, 
the  rest  of  the  fabric  as  stately  as  any  in  Europe,  being 
not  only  marble,  but  the  architecture  is  of  the  famous 
Sansovini,  who  lies  buried  in  St.  Jacomo,  at  the  end  of  the 
piazza.  The  battlements  of  this  noble  range  of  buildings, 
are  railed  with  stone,  and  thick-set  with  excellent  statues, 
which  add  a  great  ornament.  One  of  the  sides  is  yet 
much  more  Roman-like  than  the  other  which  regards  the 
sea,  and  where  the  church  is  placed.  The  other  range 
is  plainly  Gothic;  and  so  we  entered  into  St.  Mark's 
Church,  before  which  stand  two  brass  pedestals  exqui- 
sitely cast  and   figured,    which   bear   as   many  tall  masts 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  197 

painted  red,  on  which,  upon  great  festivals,  they  hang 
flags  and  streamers.  The  church  is  also  Gothic;  yet  for 
the  preciousness  of  the  materials,  being  of  several  rich 
marbles,  abundance  of  porphyry,  serpentine,  etc.,  far  ex- 
ceeding any  in  Rome,  St.  Peter's  hardly  excepted.  I 
much  admired  the  splendid  history  of  our  blessed  Savior, 
composed  all  of  Mosaic  over  the  facciata,  below  which 
and  over  the  four  chief  gates  are  cast  four  horses  in 
copper  as  big  as  the  life,  the  same  that  formerly  were 
transported  from  Rome  by  Constantine  to  Byzantium, 
and  thence  by  the  Venetians  hither.*  They  are  supported 
by  eight  porphyry  columns,  of  very  great  size  and  value. 
Being  come  into  the  church,  you  see  nothing,  and  tread 
on  nothing,  but  what  is  precious.  The  floor  is  all  inlaid 
with  agates,  lazulis,  chalcedons,  jaspers,  porphyries,  and 
other  rich  marbles,  admirable  also  for  the  work ;  the  walls 
sumptuously  incrusted,  and  presenting  to  the  imagination 
the  shapes  of  men,  birds,  houses,  flowers,  and  a  thou- 
sand varieties.  The  roof  is  of  most  excellent  Mosaic; 
but  what  most  persons  admire  is  the  new  work  of  the 
emblematic  tree  at  the  other  passage  out  of  the  church. 
In  the  midst  of  this  rich  volto  rise  five  cupolas,  the  mid- 
dle very  large  and  sustained  by  thirty-six  marble  columns, 
eight  of  which  are  of  precious  marbles:  under  these  cu- 
polas is  the  high  altar,  on  which  is  a  reliquary  of  several 
sorts  of  jewels,  engraven  with  figures,  after  the  Greek 
manner,  and  set  together  with  plates  of  pure  gold.  The 
altar  is  covered  with  a  canopy  of  ophite,  on  which  is 
sculptured  the  story  of  the  Bible,  and  so  on  the  pillars, 
which  are  of  Parian  marble,  that  support  it.  Behind 
these,  are  four  other  columns  of  transparent  and  true 
Oriental  alabaster,  brought  hither  out  of  the  mines  of 
Solomon's  Temple,  as  they  report.  There  are  many  chap- 
els and  notable  monuments  of  illustrious  persons,  dukes, 
cardinals,  etc.,  as  Zeno,  J.  Soranzi,  and  others:  there  is 
likewise  a  vast  baptistry,  of  copper.  Among  other  ven- 
erable relics  is  a  stone,  on  which  they  say  our  blessed 
Lord  stood  preaching  to  those  of  Tyre  and  Sidon,  and 
near  the  door  is  an  image  of  Christ,  much  adorned,  es- 
teeming it  very  sacred,  for  that  a  rude  fellow  striking 
it  they  say,  there  gushed  out  a  torrent  of  blood.     In  one 

♦They  were  taken  away  by  Bonaparte  to  Paris;   but  in  1815,  were 
rent  back  to  Venice. 


198  DIARY  OF  VENICE 

of  the  comers  lies  the  body  of  St.  Isidore,  brought  hither 
500  years  since  from  the  island  of  Chios.  A  little  farther, 
they  show  the  picture  of  St.  Dominic  and  Francis, 
affirmed  to  have  been  made  by  the  Abbot  Joachim  (many 
years  before  any  of  them  were  born).  Going  out  of  the 
church,  they  showed  us  the  stone  where  Alexander  III. 
trod  on  the  neck  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  Barbarossa, 
pronouncing  that  verse  of  the  psalm,  *■*•  super  basiliscum,^^ 
etc.  The  doors  of  the  church  are  of  massy  copper. 
There  are  near  500  pillars  in  this  building,  most  of  them 
porphyry  and  serpentine,  and  brought  chiefly  from  Athens, 
and  other  parts  of  Greece,  formerly  in  their  power.  At 
the  comer  of  the  church,  are  inserted  into  the  main 
wall  four  figures,  as  big  as  life,  cut  in  porphyry;  which 
they  say  are  the  images  of  four  brothers  who  poisoned 
one  another,  by  which  means  were  escheated  to  the  Re- 
public that  vast  treasury  of  relics  now  belonging  to  the 
church.  At  the  other  entrance  that  looks  toward  the 
sea,  stands  in  a  small  chapel  that  statue  of  our  Lady, 
made  (as  they  affirm)  of  the  same  stone,  or  rock,  out  of 
which  Moses  brought  water  to  the  murmuring  Israelites 
at  Horeb,  or  Meriba. 

After  all  that  is  said,  this  church  is,  in  my  opinion, 
much  too  dark  and  dismal,  and  of  heavy  work;  the  fab- 
ric,—  as  is  much  of  Venice,  both  for  buildings  and  other 
fashions  and  circumstances, —  after  the  Greeks,  their 
next  neighbors. 

The  next  day,  by  favor  of  the  French  ambassador,  I 
had  admittance  with  him  to  view  the  Reliquary,  called 
here  Tesoro  di  San  Marco,  which  very  few,  even  of  trav- 
elers, are  admitted  to  see.  It  is  a  large  chamber  full  of 
presses.  There  are  twelve  breastplates  or  pieces  of  pure 
golden  armor,  studded  with  precious  stones,  and  as  many 
crowns  dedicated  to  St.  Mark,  by  so  many  noble  Vene- 
tians, who  had  recovered  their  wives  taken  at  sea  by 
the  Saracens;  many  curious  vases  of  agates;  the  cap,  or 
coronet,  of  the  Dukes  of  Venice,  one  of  which  had  a 
ruby  set  on  it,  esteemed  worth  200,000  crowns;  two  uni- 
corns' horns;  numerous  vases  and  dishes  of  agate,  set 
thick  with  precious  stones  and  vast  pearls;  divers  heads 
of  Saints  enchased  in  gold;  a  small  ampulla,  or  glass, 
with  our  Savior's  blood ;  a  great  morsel  of  the  real  cross ; 
one  of  the  nails;   a  thorn-,   a  fragment  of  the  column  *.o 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  199 

which  our  Lord  was  bound,  when  scourged;  the  standard 
or  ensign,  of  Constantine ;  a  piece  of  St.  Luke's  arm ;  a 
rib  of  St.  Stephen;  a  finger  of  Mary  Magdalen;  numer- 
ous other  things,  which  I  could  not  remember.  But  a 
priest,  first  vesting  himself  in  his  sacerdotals,  with  the 
stole  about  his  neck,  showed  us  the  gospel  of  St.  Mark 
(their  tutelar  patron)  written  by  his  own  hand,  and  whose 
body  they  show  buried  in  the  church,  brought  hither 
from  Alexandria  many  years  ago. 

The  Religious  de  li  Servi  have  fine  paintings  of  Paolo 
Veronese,  especially  the  Magdalen. 

A  French  gentleman  and  myself  went  to  the  Courts  of 
Justice,  the  Senate  House,  and  Ducal  Palace.  The  first 
court  near  this  church  is  almost  wholly  built  of  several 
colored  sorts  of  marble,  like  checkerwork  on  the  outside; 
this  is  sustained  by  vast  pillars,  not  very  shapely,  but 
observable  for  their  capitals,  and  that  out  of  thirty-three 
no  two  are  alike.  Under  this  fabric  is  the  cloister  where 
merchants  meet  morning  and  evening,  as  also  the  grave 
senators  and  gentlemen,  to  confer  of  state  affairs,  in  their 
gowns  and  caps,  like  so  many  philosophers;  it  is  a  very 
noble  and  solemn  spectacle.  In  another  quadrangle, 
stood  two  square  columns  of  white  marble,  carved,  which 
they  said  had  been  erected  to  hang  one  of  their  Dukes 
on,  who  designed  to  make  hirfiself  Sovereign.  Going 
through  a  stately  arch,  there  were  standing  in  niches 
divers  statues  of  great  value,  among  which  is  the  so 
celebrated  Eve,  esteemed  worth  its  weight  in  gold;  it  is 
just  opposite  to  the  stairs  where  are  two  Colossuses  of 
Mars  and  Neptune,  by  Sansovino.  We  went  up  into  a 
Corridor  built  with  several  Tribunals  and  Courts  of  Jus- 
tice; and  by  a  well-contrived  staircase  were  landed  in 
the  Senate  hall,  which  appears  to  be  one  of  the  most 
noble  and  spacious  rooms  in  Europe,  being  seventy-six 
paces  long,  and  thirty-two  in  breadth.  At  the  upper  end, 
are  the  Tribunals  of  the  Doge,  Council  of  Ten,  and 
Assistants:  in  the  body  of  the  hall,  are  lower  ranks  of 
seats,  capable  of  containing  1,500  Senators;  for  they  con- 
sist of  no  fewer  on  grand  debates.  Over  the  Duke's 
throne  are  the  paintings  of  the  Final  Judgment,  by 
Tintoret,  esteemed  among  the  best  pieces  in  Europe. 
On  the  roof  are  the  famous  Acts  of  the  Republic,  painted 
by    several    excellent    masters,  especially    Bassano;    next 


200  DIARY   OF  VENici 

them,  are  the  effigies  of  the  several  Dukes,  with  their 
Elogies.  Thm,  we  turned  into  a  great  Court  painted 
with  the  Batt'e  of  Lepanto,  an  excellent  piece;  afterward, 
into  the  Chamber  of  the  Council  of  Ten,  painted  by  the 
most  celebrated  masters.  From  hence,  by  the  special 
favor  of  an  Illiistrissimo,  we  were  carried  to  see  the 
private  Armory  cf  the  Palace,  and  so  to  the  same  court 
we  first  entered,  nobly  built  of  polished  white  marble, 
part  of  which  is  the  Duke's  Court,  pro  tempore;  there 
are  two  wells  adorned  with  excellent  work  in  copper. 
This  led  us  to  the  seaside,  where  stand  those  columns 
of  ophite  stone  in  the  entire  piece,  of  a  great  height, 
one  bearing  St.  Mark's  Lion,  the  other  St.  Theodorus: 
these  pillars  were  brought  from  Greece,  and  set  up  by 
Nicholas  Baraterius,  the  architect;  between  them  public 
executions  are  performed. 

Having  fed  our  eyes  with  the  noble  prospect  of  the 
Island  of  St.  George,  the  galleys,  gondolas,  and  other 
vessels  passing  to  and  fro,  we  walked  under  the  cloister 
on  the  other  side  of  this  goodly  piazza,  being  a  most 
magnificent  building,  the  design  of  Sansovino.  Here  we 
went  into  the  Zecca,  or  mint;  at  the  entrance,  stand  two 
prodigious  giants,  or  Hercules,  of  white  marble,  we  saw 
them  melt,  beat,  and  coin  silver,  gold,  and  copper.  We 
then  went  up  into  the  Procuratory,  and  a  library  of 
excellent  MSS.  and  books  belonging  to  it  and  the  public. 
After  this,  we  climbed  up  the  tower  of  St.  Mark,  which 
we  might  have  done  on  horseback,  as  it  is  said  one  of 
the  French  Kings  did;  there  being  no  stairs,  or  steps, 
but  returns  that  take  up  an  entire  square  on  the  arches 
forty  feet,  broad  enough  for  a  coach.  This  steeple  stands 
by  itself,  without  any  church  near  it,  and  is  rather  a 
watch  tower  in  the  corner  of  the  great  piazza,  230  feet  in 
height,  the  foundation  exceeding  deep;  on  the  top,  is 
an  angel,  that  turns  with  the  wind;  and  from  hence  is 
a  prospect  down  the  Adriatic,  as  far  as  Istria  and  the 
Dalmatian  side,  with  the  surprising  sight  of  this  miracu- 
lous city,  lying  in  the  bosom  of  the  sea,  in  the  shape  of 
a  lute,  the  numberless  islands  tacked  together  by  no 
fewer  than  450  bridges.  At  the  foot  of  this  tower,  is  a 
public  tribunal  of  excellent  work,  in  white  marble 
polished,  adorned  with  several  brass  statues  and  figures  of 
stone  and  mezzo-relievo,  the  performance  of  some  rare  artist. 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  201 

It  was  now  Ascension- week,  and  the  gfreat  mart,  or  fair, 
of  the  whole  year  was  kept,  everj^body  at  liberty  and  jolly; 
the  noblemen  stalking  with  their  ladies  on  choppines.  These 
are  high-heeled  shoes,  particularly  affected  by  these  proud 
dames,  or,  as  some  say,  invented  to  keep  them  at  home,  it 
being  very  difficult  to  walk  with  them ;  whence,  one  being 
asked  how  he  liked  the  Venetian  dames,  replied,  they  were 
"  mezzo  car7ie,  mezzo  legno^  *^  half  flesh,  half  wood,  and  he 
would  have  none  of  them.  The  truth  is,  their  garb  is 
very  odd,  as  seeming  always  in  masquerade;  their  other 
habits  also  totally  different  from  all  nations.  They  wear 
very  long,  crisp  hair,  of  several  streaks  and  colors,  which 
they  make  so  by  a  wash,  disheveling  it  on  the  brims  of 
a  broad  hat  that  has  no  crown,  but  a  hole  to  put  out  their 
heads  by;  they  dry  them  in  the  sun,  as  one  may  see  them 
at  their  windows.  In  their  tire,  they  set  silk  flowers  and 
sparkling  stones,  their  petticoats  coming  from  their  very 
arm-pits,  so  that  they  are  near  three  quarters  and  a  half 
apron;  their  sleeves  are  made  exceedingly  wide,  under 
which  their  shift-sleeves  as  wide,  and  commonly  tucked 
up  to  the  shoulder,  showing  their  naked  arms,  through 
false  sleeves  of  tiffany,  girt  with  a  bracelet  or  two,  with 
knots  of  point  richly  tagged  about  their  shoulders  and 
other  places  of  their  body,  which  they  usually  cover  with 
a  kind  of  yellow  veil  of  lawn,  very  transparent.  Thus 
attired,  they  set  their  hands  on  the  heads  of  two  matron- 
like servants,  or  old  women,  to  support  them,  who  are 
mumbling  their  beads.  It  is  ridiculous  to  see  how  these 
ladies  crawl  in  and  out  of  their  gondolas,  by  reason  of 
their  choppines ;  and  what  dwarfs  they  appear,  when  taken 
down  from  their  wooden  scaffolds;  of  these  I  saw  near 
thirty  together,  stalking  half  as  high  again  as  the  rest  of 
the  world.  For  courtesans,  or  the  citizens,  may  not  wear 
choppines,  but  cover  their  bodies  and  faces  with  a  veil  of 
a  certain  glittering  taffeta,  or  lustr^e,  out  of  which  they 
now  and  then  dart  a  glance  of  their  eye,  the  whole  face 
being  otherwise  entirely  hid  with  it:  nor  may  the  com- 
mon misses  take  this  habit;  but  go  abroad  barefaced. 
To  the  comer  of  these  virgin-veils  hang  broad  but  flat 
tassels  of  curious  Point  de  Venice.  The  married  women 
go  in  black  veils.  The  nobility  wear  the  same  color,  but 
a  fine  cloth  lined  with  taffeta,  in  summer,  with  fur  of  the 
bellies  of  squirrels,  in  the  winter,  which  all  put  on  at  a 


tot  DIARY   OF  VENICE 

certain  day,  girt  with  a  girdle  embossed  with  silver; 
the  vest  not  much  different  from  what  our  Bachelors  of 
Arts  wear  in  Oxford,  and  a  hood  of  cloth,  made  like  a 
sack,  cast  over  their  left  shoulder,  and  a  round  cloth  black 
cap  fringed  with  wool,  which  is  not  so  comely ;  they  also 
wear  their  collar  open,  to  show  the  diamond  button  of  the 
stock  of  their  shirt.  I  have  never  seen  pearls  for  color  and 
bigness  comparable  to  what  the  ladies  wear,  most  of  the 
noble  families  being  very  rich  in  jewels,  especially  pearls, 
which  are  always  left  to  the  son,  or  brother  who  is  des- 
tined to  marry ;  which  the  eldest  seldom  do.  The  Doge's 
vest  is  of  crimson  velvet,  the  Procurator's,  etc.  of  damask, 
very  stately.  Nor  was  I  less  surprised  with  the  strange 
variety  of  the  several  nations  seen  every  day  in  the  streets 
and  piazzas;  Jews,  Turks,  Armenians,  Persians,  Moors, 
Greeks,  Sclavonians,  some  with  their  targets  and  buck- 
lers, and  all  in  their  native  fashions,  negotiating  in  this 
famous  Emporium,  which  is  always  crowded  with  strangers. 
This  night,  having  with  my  Lord  Bruce  taken  our 
places  before  we  went  to  the  Opera,  where  comedies  and 
other  plays  are  represented  in  recitative  music,  by  the 
most  excellent  musicians,  vocal  and  instrumental,  with 
variety  of  scenes  painted  and  contrived  with  no  less  art 
of  perspective,  and  machines  for  flying  in  the  air,  and 
other  wonderful  notions;  taken  together,  it  is  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  and  expensive  diversions  the  wit  of  man 
can  invent.  The  history  was,  Hercules  in  Lydia;  the 
scenes  changed  thirteen  times.  The  famous  voices,  Anna 
Rencia,  a  Roman,  and  reputed  the  best  treble  of  women ; 
but  there  was  an  eunuch  who,  in  my  opinion,  surpassed 
her ;  also  a  Genoese  that  sung  an  incomparable  bass.  This 
held  us  by  the  eyes  and  ears  till  two  in  the  morning, 
when  we  went  to  the  Ghetto  de  san  Felice,  to  see  the 
noblemen  and  their  ladies  at  basset,  a  game  at  cards 
which  is  much  used ;  but  they  play  not  in  public,  and  all 
that  have  inclination  to  it  are  in  masquerade,  without 
speaking  one  word,  and  so  they  come  in,  play,  lose  or 
gain,  and  go  away  as  they  please.  This  time  of  license 
is  only  in  carnival  and  this  Ascension-week;  neither  are 
their  theatres  open  for  that  other  magnificence,  or  for 
ordinary  comedians,  save  on  these  solemnities,  they  being 
a  frugal  and  wise  people,  and  exact  observers  of  all 
sumptuary  laws. 


1 645  JOHN  EVELYN  203 

There  being  at  this  time  a  ship  bound  for  the  Holy 
Land,  I  had  resolved  to  embark,  intending  to  see  Jerusa- 
lem, and  other  parts  of  Syria,  Egypt  and  Turkey;  but 
after  I  had  provided  all  necessaries,  laid  in  snow  to  cool 
our  drink,  bought  some  sheep,  poultry,  biscuit,  spirits, 
and  a  little  cabinet  of  drugs  in  case  of  sickness,  our  ves- 
sel (whereof  Captain  Powell  was  master),  happened  to  be 
pressed  for  the  service  of  the  State,  to  carry  provisions  to 
Candia,  now  newly  attacked  by  the  Turks;  which  alto- 
gether frustrated  my  design,  to  my  great  mortification. 

On  the  ...  of  June,  we  went  to  Padua,  to  the  fair  of 
their  St.  Anthony,  in  company  of  divers  passengers. 
The  first  terra  firma  we  landed  at  was  Fusina,  being 
only  an  inn  where  we  changed  our  barge,  and  were  then 
drawn  up  by  horses  through  the  river  Brenta,  a  straight 
channel  as  even  as  a  line  for  twenty  miles,  the  country 
on  both  sides  deliciously  adorned  with  country  villas  and 
gentlemen's  retirements,  gardens  planted  with  oranges, 
figs,  and  other  fruit,  belonging  to  the  Venetians.  At 
one  of  these  villas  we  went  ashore  to  see  a  pretty  con- 
trived palace.  Observable  in  this  passage  was  buying 
their  water  of  those  who  farm  the  sluices;  for  this  arti- 
ficial river  is  in  some  places  so  shallow,  that  reserves  of 
water  are  kept  with  sluices,  which  they  open  and  shut 
with  a  most  ingenious  invention,  or  engine,  governed 
even  by  a  child.  Thus  they  keep  up  the  water,  or  let 
it  go,  till  the  next  channel  be  either  filled  by  the  stop, 
or  abated  to  the  level  of  the  other;  for  which  every  boat 
pays  a  certain  duty.  Thus,  we  stayed  near  half  an  hour 
and  more,  at  three  several  places,  so  as  it  was  evening 
before  we  got  to  Padua.  This  is  a  very  ancient  city,  if 
the  tradition  of  Antenor's,  being  the  founder,  be  not  a 
fiction;  but  thus  speaks  the  inscription  over  a  stately 
gate: 

^^Hanc  antiqutssimam  urbent  liter  arum  omnium  asylum,  cujus 
agrum fertilitatis  Lumen  Natura  esse  voluit,  Antenor  condidit, 
anno  ante  Christum  natum  M.  Cxviii;  Senaius  autem  Venetus  his 
belli  propugnaculis  ornavit.^'* 

The  town  stands  on  the  river  Padus,  whence  its  name, 
and  is  generally  built  like  Bologna,  on  arches  and  on 
brick,  so  that  one  may  walk  all  around  it,  dry,  and  in 
the  shade;  which  is  very  convenient  in  these  hot  coun- 
tries, and  I  think  I  was   never  sensible  •£  S9  burning  a 


204  DIARY   OP  PADUA 

heat  as  I  was  this  season,  especially  the  next  day,  which 
was  that  of  the  fair,  filled  with  noble  Venetians,  by 
reason  of  a  great  and  solemn  procession  to  their  famous 
cathedral.  Passing  by  St.  Lorenzo,  I  met  with  this 
subscription : 

*■*■  Inclytus  Antenor  patriam  vox  nisa  quietem 

Transtulit  hue  Henetu?n  Dardanidumq ;  fuga, 
Expulit  Euganeos,  Patavinam  condtdit  urbetn. 
Quern,  teg  it  hie  humili  marmore  ecesa  domus?'* 

Under  the  tomb,  was  a  cobbler  at  his  work.  Being 
now  come  to  St.  Antony's  (the  street  most  of  the  way 
straight,  well  built,  and  outside  excellently  painted  in 
fresco)^  we  surveyed  the  spacious  piazza,  in  which  is 
erected  a  noble  statue  of  copper  of  a  man  on  horseback, 
in  memory  of  one  Catta  Malata,  a  renowned  captain. 
The  church,  h  la  Greca,  consists  of  five  handsome 
cupolas,  leaded.  At  the  left  hand  within  is  the  tomb  of  St. 
Antony  and  his  altar,  about  which  a  mezzo-relievo  of 
the  miracles  ascribed  to  him  is  exquisitely  wrought  in 
white  marble  by  the  three  famous  sculptors,  Tullius 
Lombardus,  Jacobus  Sansovinus,  and  Hieronymus  Com- 
pagno.  A  little  higher  is  the  choir,  walled  parapet- 
fashion,  with  sundry  colored  stone,  half  relievo,  the  work 
of  Andrea  Reccij.  The  altar  within  is  of  the  same 
metal,  which,  with  the  candlestick  and  bases,  is,  in  my 
opinion,  as  magnificent  as  any  in  Italy.  The  wainscot 
of  the  choir  is  rarely  inlaid  and  carved.  Here  are  the 
sepulchres  of  many  famous  persons,  as  of  Rodolphus 
Fulgosi,  etc. ;  and  among  the  rest,  one  for  an  exploit  at 
sea,  has  a  galley  exquisitely  carved  thereon.  The  pro- 
cession bore  the  banners  with  all  the  treasure  of  the 
cloister,  which  was  a  very  fine  sight. 

Hence,  walking  over  the  Prato  delle  Valle,  I  went  to 
see  the  convent  of  St.  Justina,  than  which  I  never  be- 
held one  more  magnificent.  The  church  is  an  excellent 
piece  of  architecture,  of  Andrea  Palladio,  richly  paved, 
with  a  stately  cupola  that  covers  the  high  altar  enshrin- 
ing the  ashes  of  that  saint.  It  is  of  pietra-commessa,  con- 
sisting of  flowers  very  naturally  done.  The  choir  is  inlaid 
with  several  sorts  of  wood  representing  the  holy  history, 
finished  with  exceeding  industry.  At  the  far  end,  is  that 
rare  painting  of  St.  Justina's  Martyrdom,  by  Paolo  Vero- 
nese; and  a  stone  on  which  they  told  us  divers  primitive 


i645  JOHN   EVELYN  205 

Christians  had  been  decapitated.  In  another  place  (to 
which  leads  a  small  cloister  well  painted)  is  a  dry  well, 
covered  with  a  brass-work  grate,  wherein  are  the  bones 
of  divers  martyrs.  They  show  also  the  bones  of  St.  Luke, 
in  an  old  alabaster  coffin;  three  of  the  Holy  Innocents; 
and  the  bodies  of  St.  Maximus  and  Prosdocimus.*  The 
dormitory  above  is  exceedingly  commodious  and  stately; 
but  what  most  pleased  me,  was  the  old  cloister  so  well 
painted  with  the  legendary  saints,  mingled  with  many 
ancient  inscriptions,  and  pieces  of  urns  dug  up,  it  seems, 
at  the  foundation  of  the  church.  Thus,  having  spent 
the  day  in  rambles,   I  returned  the  next  day  to  Venice. 

The  arsenal  is  thought  to  be  one  of  the  best  furnished 
in  the  world.  We  entered  by  a  strong  port,  always 
guarded,  and,  ascending  a  spacious  gallery,  saw  arms  of 
back,  breast,  and  head,  for  many  thousands;  in  another 
were  saddles;  over  them,  ensigns  taken  from  the  Turks. 
Another  hall  is  for  the  meeting  of  the  Senate ;  passing  a 
graff,  are  the  smiths'  forges,  where  they  are  continually 
employed  on  anchors  and  iron  work.  Near  it  is  a  well 
of  fresh  water,  which  they  impute  to  two  rhinoceros's 
horns  which  they  say  lie  in  it,  and  will  preserve  it  from 
ever  being  empoisoned.  Then  we  came  to  where  the  car- 
penters were  building  their  magazines  of  oars,  masts,  etc., 
for  an  hundred  galleys  and  ships,  which  have  all  their 
apparel  and  furniture  near  them.  Then  the  foundry, 
where  they  cast  ordnance;  the  forge  is  450  paces  long, 
and  one  of  them  has  thirteen  furnaces.  There  is  one 
cannon,  weighing  16,573  pounds,  cast  while  Henry  the 
Third  dined,  and  put  into  a  galley  built,  rigged,  and 
fitted  for  launching  within  that  time.  They  have  also 
arms  for  twelve  galeasses,  which  are  vessels  to  row,  of 
almost  150  feet  long,  and  thirty  wide,  not  counting  prow 
or  poop,  and  contain  twenty-eight  banks  of  oars,  each 
seven  men,  and  to  carry  1,300  men,  with  three  masts. 
In  another,  a  magazine  for  fifty  galleys,  and  place  for 
some  hundreds  more.  Here  stands  the  Bucentaur,  with 
a  most  ample  deck,  and  so  contrived  that  the  slaves  are 
not  seen,  having  on  the  poop  a  throne  for  the  Doge  to 
sit,  when  he  goes  in  triumph  to  espouse  the  Adriatic. 
Here  is  also  a  gallery  of  200  yards  long  for  cables,  and 
above  that  a  magazine  of  hemp.     Opposite  these,  are  the 

*St  Peter's  disciple,  first  Bishop  of  Padua. 


2o6  DIARY  OF  Venice 

saltpetre  houses,  and  a  large  row  of  cells,  or  houses,  to 
protect  their  galleys  from  the  weather.  Over  the  gate, 
as  we  go  out,  is  a  room  full  of  great  and  small  guns, 
some  of  which  discharge  six  times  at  once.  Then,  there 
is  a  court  full  of  cannon,  bullets,  chains,  grapples,  grena- 
does,  etc.,  and  over  that  arms  for  800,000  men,  and  by 
themselves  arms  for  400,  taken  from  some  that  were  in 
a  plot  against  the  state ;  together  with  weapons  of  ofEense 
and  defense  for  sixty-two  ships ;  thirty- two  pieces  of  ord- 
nance, on  carriages  taken  from  the  Turks,  and  one  pro- 
digious mortar-piece.  In  a  word,  it  is  not  to  be  reckoned 
up  what  this  large  place  contains  of  this  sort.  There 
were  now  twenty-three  galleys,  and  four  galley-grossi,  of 
too  oars  to  a  side.  The  whole  arsenal  is  walled  about, 
and  may  be  in  compass  about  three  miles,  with  twelve 
towers  for  the  watch,  besides  that  the  sea  environs  it. 
The  workmen,  who  are  ordinarily  500,  march  out  in 
military  order,  and  every  evening  receive  their  pay 
through  a  small  hole  in  the  gate  where  the  governor 
lives. 

The  next  day,  I  saw  a  wretch  executed,  who  had  mur- 
dered his  master,  for  which  he  had  his  head  chopped  off 
by  an  ax  that  slid  down  a  frame  of  timber,  between  the 
two  tall  columns  in  St.  Mark's  piazza,  at  the  sea-brink; 
the  executioner  striking  on  the  ax  with  a  beetle;  and 
so  the  head  fell  off  the  block. 

Hence,  by  Gudala,  we  went  to  see  Grimani's  Palace, 
the  portico  whereof  is  excellent  work.  Indeed,  the  world 
cannot  show  a  city  of  more  stately  buildings,  considering 
the  extent  of  it,  all  of  square  stone,  and  as  chargeable 
in  their  foundations  as  superstructure,  being  all  built  on 
piles  at  an  immense  cost.  We  returned  home  by  the 
church  of  St.  Johanne  and  Paulo,  before  which  is,  in 
copper,  the  statue  of  Bartolomeo  Colone,  on  horseback, 
double  gilt,  on  a  stately  pedestal,  the  work  of  Andrea 
Verrochio,  a  Florentine,  This  is  a  very  fine  church,  and 
has  in  it  many  rare  altarpieces  of  the  best  masters,  es- 
pecially that  on  the  left  hand,  of  the  Two  Friars  slain, 
which  is  of  Titian. 

The  day  after,  being  Sunday,  I  went  over  to  St. 
George's  to  the  ceremony  of  the  schismatic  Greeks,  who 
are  permitted  to  have  their  church,  though  they  are  at 
defiance  with  Rome.     They  allow  no  carved  images,  but 


1 645  JOHN   EVELYN  207 

many  painted,  especially  the  story  of  their  patron  and 
his  dragon.  Their  rites  differ  not  much  from  the  Latins, 
save  that  of  communicating  in  both  species,  and  distri- 
bution of  the  holy  bread.  We  afterward  fell  into  a  dis- 
pute with  a  Candiot,  concerning  the  procession  of  the 
Holy  Ghost.     The  church  is  a  noble  fabric. 

The  church  of  St.  Zachary  is  a  Greek  building,  by  Leo 
IV.,  Emperor,  and  has  in  it  the  bones  of  that  prophet, 
with  divers  other  saints.  Near  this,  we  visited  St.  Luke's, 
famous  for  the  tomb  of  Aretin, 

Tuesday,  we  visited  several  other  churches,  as  Santa 
Maria,  newly  incrusted  with  marble  on  the  outside,  and 
adorned  with  porphyry,  ophite,  and  Spartan  stone.  Near 
the  altar  and  under  the  organ,  are  sculptures,  that  are 
said  to  be  of  the  famous  artist  Praxiteles.  To  that  of 
St.  Paul  I  went  purposely,  to  see  the  tomb  of  Titian. 
Then  to  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  where  among  other 
heroes,  lies  Andrea  Baldarius,  the  inventor  of  oars  ap- 
plied to  great  vessels  for  fighting. 

We  also  saw  St.  Roche,  the  roof  whereof  is,  with  the 
school,  or  hall,  of  that  rich  confraternity,  admirably 
painted  by  Tintoretto,  especially  the  Crucifix  in  the 
sacristia.  We  saw  also  the  church  of  St.  Sebastian,  and 
Carmelites'  monastery. 

Next  day,  taking  our  gondola  at  St.  Mark's,  I  passed 
to  the  island  of  St.  George  Maggiore,  where  is  a  Con- 
vent of  Benedictines,  and  a  well-built  church  of  Andrea 
Palladio,  the  great  architect.  The  pavement,  cupola, 
choir,  and  pictures,  very  rich  and  sumptuous.  The 
cloister  has  a  fine  garden  to  it,  which  is  a  rare  thing  at 
Venice,  though  this  is  an  island  a  little  distant  from  the 
city;  it  has  also  an  olive  orchard,  all  environed  by  the 
sea.  The  new  cloister  now  building  has  a  noble  staircase 
paved  with  white  and  black  marble. 

From  hence,  we  visited  St.  Spirit©,  and  St.  Laurence, 
fair  churches  in  several  islands;  but  most  remarkable  is 
that  of  the  Padri  Olivetani,  in  St.  Helen's  island,  for  the 
rare  paintings  and  carvings,  with  inlaid  work,  etc. 

The  next  morning,  we  went  again  to  Padua,  where, 
on  the  following  day,  we  visited  the  market,  which  is 
plentifully  furnished,  and  exceedingly  cheap.  Here  we 
saw  the  great  hall,  built  in  a  spacious  piazza,  and  one  of 
the  most  magnificent   in  Europe ;   itc  ascent  is  by  steps  a 


2o8  DIARY  OF  Padua 

good  height,  of  a  reddish  marble  polished,  much  used  in 
these  parts,  and  happily  found  not  far  off;  it  is  almost 
200  paces  long,  and  forty  in  breadth,  all  covered  with 
lead,  without  any  support  of  columns.  At  the  further  end 
stands  the  bust,  in  white  marble,  of  Titus  Livius,  the 
historian.  In  this  town  is  the  house  wherein  he  was  born, 
full  of  inscriptions,  and  pretty  fair. 

Near  to  the  monument  of  Speron  Speroni,  is  painted 
on  the  ceiling  the  celestial  zodiac,  and  other  astronomical 
figures;  without  side,  there  is  a  corridor,  in  manner  of 
a  balcony,  of  the  same  stone ;  and  at  the  entry  of  each 
of  the  three  gates  is  the  head  of  some  famous  person, 
as  Albert  Eremitano,  Julio  Paullo  (lawyers),  and  Peter 
Aponius.  In  the  piazza  is  the  Podesta's  and  Capitano 
Grande's  Palace,  well  built;  but  above  all,  the  Monte 
Pietk,  the  front  whereof  is  of  most  excellent  architec- 
ture. This  is  a  foundation  of  which  there  is  one  in  most 
of  the  cities  in  Italy,  where  there  is  a  continual  bank 
of  money  to  assist  the  poorer  sort,  on  any  pawn,  and  at 
reasonable  interest,  together  with  magazines  for  deposit  of 
goods,  till  redeemed. 

Hence,  to  the  Schools  of  this  flourishing  and  ancient 
University,  especially  for  the  study  of  physic  and  anatomy. 
They  are  fairly  built  in  quadrangle,  with  cloisters  beneath, 
and  above  with  columns.  Over  the  great  gate  are  the 
arms  of  the  Venetian  State,  and  under  the  lion  of  St. 
Mark. 

Sic  ingredere,  ut  teipso  quotidie  doctior;  sic  egredere  ut  indies 
Patrice  Christianceq ;  Repicblicce  utilior  evadas;  it  a  dgtnitm  Gym- 
nasium d,  te  felicit^r  se  ornatum  existimabit. 

CIC.  IX. 

About  the  court  walls,  are  carved  in  stone  and  painted 
the  blazons  of  the  Consuls  of  all  the  nations,  that  from 
time  to  time  have  had  that  charge  and  honor  in  the 
University,  which  at  my  being  there  was  my  worthy  friend 
Dr.  Rogers,  who  here  took  that  degree. 

The  Schools  for  the  lectures  of  the  several  sciences  are 
above,  but  none  of  them  comparable,  or  so  much  fre- 
quented, as  the  theater  for  anatomy,  which  is  excellently 
contrived  both  for  the  dissector  and  spectators.  I  was 
this  day  invited  to  dinner,  and  in  the  afternoon  (30th 
July)  received    my   matricula^    being    resolved    to    spend 


i645  JOHN  EVELYN  209 

some  months  here  at  study,  especially  physic  and  anatomy, 
of  both  which  there  were  now  the  most  famous  professors 
in  Europe.  My  matricula  contained  a  clause,  that  I,  my 
goods,  servants,  and  messengers,  should  be  free  from  all 
tolls  and  reprises,  and  that  we  might  come,  pass,  return, 
buy,  or  sell,  without  any  toll,  etc. 

The  next  morning,  I  saw  the  garden  of  simples,  rarely 
furnished  with  plants,  and  gave  order  to  the  gardener  to 
make  me  a  collection  of  them  for  an  hortus  hy emails^  by 
permission  of  the  Cavalier  Dr.  Veslingius,  then  Prefect 
and  Botanic  Professor  as  well  as  of  Anatomy. 

This  morning,  the  Earl  of  Arundel,*  now  in  this  city,  a 
famous  collector  of  paintings  and  antiquities,  invited  me 
to  go  with  him  to  see  the  garden  of  Mantua,  where,  as 
one  enters,  stands  a  huge  colosse  of  Hercules.  From 
hence  to  a  place  where  was  a  room  covered  with  a  noble 
cupola,  built  purposely  for  music ;  the  fillings  up,  or  cove, 
between  the  walls,  were  of  urns  and  earthen  pots,  for  the 
better  sounding;  it  was  also  well  painted.  After  dinner, 
we  walked  to  the  Palace  of  Foscari  all'  Arena,  there  re- 
maining yet  some  appearances  of  an  ancient  theater, 
though  serving  now  for  a  court  only  before  the  house. 
There  were  now  kept  in  it  two  eagles,  a  crane,  a  Mauri- 
tanian  sheep,  a  stag,  and  sundry  fowls,  as  in  a  vivary. 

Three  days  after,  I  returned  to  Venice,  and  passed  over 
to  Murano,  famous  for  the  best  glasses  in  the  world, 
where  having  viewed  their  furnaces,  and  seen  their  work, 
I  made  a  collection  of  divers  curiosities  and  glasses,  which 
I  sent  for  England  by  long  sea.  It  is  the  white  flints 
they  have  from  Pavia,  which  they  pound  and  sift  ex- 
ceedingly small,  and  mix  with  ashes  made  of  a  seaweed 
brought  out  of  Syria,  and  a  white  sand,  that  causes  this 
manufacture  to  excel.  The  town  is  a  Podestaria  by  it- 
self, at  some  miles  distant  on  the  sea  from  Venice,  and 
like  it,  built  on  several  small  islands.  In  this  place,  are 
excellent  oysters,  small  and  well  tasted  like  our  Colches- 
ter, and  they  were  the  first,  as  I  remember,  that  I  ever 
could  eat;  for  I  had  naturally  an  aversion  to  them. 

At  our  return  to  Venice,  we  met  several  gondolas  full 
of  Venetian  ladies,  who  come  thus  far  in  fine  weather  to 

*  The  celebrated  Thomas,  Earl  of  Arundel,  part  of  whose  coUectifra 
was  eventually  procured  for  the  University  of  Oxford  by  Evelyn,  and  is 
distinguished  by  the  name  Marmora  Arunde liana, 
14 


2IO  DIARY   OF  VENICE 

take  the  air,  with  music  and  other  refreshments.  Besides 
that,  Murano  is  itself  a  very  nobly  built  town,  and  has 
divers  noblemen's   palaces   in   it,  and  handsome  gardens. 

In  coming  back,  we  saw  the  islands  of  St.  Christopher 
and  St.  Michael,  the  last  of  which  has  a  church  enriched 
and  incrusted  with  marbles  and  other  architectonic  orna- 
ments, which  the  monks  very  courteously  showed  us.  It 
was  built  and  founded  by  Margaret  Emiliana  of  Verona, 
a  famous  courtesan,  who  purchased  a  great  estate,  and 
by  this  foundation  hoped  to  commute  for  her  sins.  We 
then  rowed  by  the  isles  of  St.  Nicholas,  whose  church, 
with  the  monuments  of  the  Justinian  family,  entertained 
us  awhile;  and  then  got  home. 

The  next  morning,  Captain  Powell,  in  whose  ship  I 
was  to  embark  toward  Turkey,  invited  me  on  board, 
lying  about  ten  miles  from  Venice,  where  we  had  a  din- 
ner of  English  powdered  beef  and  other  good  meat,  with 
store  of  wine  and  great  guns,  as  the  manner  is.  After 
dinner,  the  Captain  presented  me  with  a  stone  he  had 
lately  brought  from  Grand  Cairo,  which  he  took  from  the 
mummy-pits,  full  of  hieroglyphics;  I  drew  it  on  paper 
with  the  true  dimensions,  and  sent  it  in  a  letter  to  Mr. 
Henshaw  to  communicate  to  Father  Kircher,  who  was 
then  setting  forth  his  great  work  "  Obeliscus  Pamphilius," 
where  it  is  described,  but  without  mentioning  my  name. 
The  stone  was  afterward  brought  for  me  into  England, 
and  landed  at  Wapping,  where,  before  I  could  hear  of  it, 
it  was  broken  into  several  fragments,  and  utterly  defaced, 
to  my  no  small  disappointment. 

The  boatswain  of  the  ship  also  gave  me  a  hand  and 
foot  of  a  mummy,  the  nails  whereof  had  been  overlaid 
with  thin  plates  of  gold,  and  the  whole  body  was  per- 
fect, when  he  brought  it  out  of  Egypt;  but  the  avarice 
of  the  ship's  crew  broke  it  to  pieces,  and  divided  the 
body  among  them.  He  presented  me  also  with  two 
Egyptian  idols,  and  some  loaves  of  the  bread  which  the 
Coptics  use  in  the  Holy  Sacrament,  with  other  curiosities. 

8th  August,  1645.  I  ^^^  news  from  Padua  of  my 
election  to  be  Syndicus  Artist  arum,  which  caused  me, 
after  two  days  idling  in  a  country  villa  with  the  Consul 
of  Venice,  to  hasten  thither,  that  I  might  discharge 
myself  of  that  honor,  because  it  was  not  only  chargeable, 
but  would  have  hindered  my  progress,  and  they  chose   a 


1 645  JOHN   EVELYN  211 

Dutch  gentleman  in  my  place,  which  did  not  well  please 
my  countrymen,  who  had  labored  not  a  little  to  do  me 
the  greatest  honor  a  stranger  is  capable  of  in  that 
University.  Being  freed  from  this  impediment,  and  hav- 
ing taken  leave  of  Dr.  Janicius,  a  Polonian,  who  was  go- 
ing as  physician  in  the  Venetian  galleys  to  Candia,  I  went 
again  to  Venice,  and  made  a  collection  of  several  books 
and  some  toys.  Three  days  after,  I  returned  to  Padua, 
where  I  studied  hard  till  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Henshaw, 
Bramstone,  and  some  other  English  gentlemen  whom  I 
had  left  at  Rome,  and  who  made  me  go  back  to  Venice, 
where  I  spent  some  time  in  showing  them  what  I  had 
seen  there. 

26th  September,  1645.  ^7  dear  friend,  and  till  now  my 
constant  fellow-traveler,  Mr.  Thicknesse,  being  obliged 
to  return  to  England  upon  his  particular  concern,  and 
who  had  served  his  Majesty  in  the  wars,  I  accompanied 
him  part  of  his  way,  ,and,  on  the  28th,  returned  to 
Venice. 

29th  September,  1645.  Michaelmas  day,  I  went  with 
my  Lord  Mowbray  (eldest  son  to  the  Earl  of  Arundel, 
and  a  most  worthy  person)  to  see  the  collection  of  a 
noble  Venetian,  Signor  Rugini.  He  has  a  stately  palace, 
richly  furnished  with  statues  and  heads  of  Roman  Em- 
perors, all  placed  in  an  ample  room.  In  the  next,  was  a 
cabinet  of  medals,  both  Latin  and  Greek,  with  divers 
curious  shells  and  two  fair  pearls  in  two  of  them;  but, 
above  all,  he  abounded  in  things  petrified,  walnuts,  eggs 
in  which  the  yoke  rattled,  a  pear,  a  piece  of  beef  with 
the  bones  in  it,  a  whole  hedgehog,  a  plaice  on  a  wooden 
trencher  turned  into  stone  and  very  perfect,  charcoal,  a 
morsel  of  cork  yet  retaining  its  levity,  sponges,  and  a 
piece  of  taffety  part  rolled  up,  with  innumerable  more. 
In  another  cabinet,  supported  by  twelve  pillars  of  oriental 
agate,  and  railed  about  with  crystal,  he  showed  us  sev- 
eral noble  intaglios  of  agate,  especially  a  head  of  Ti- 
berius, a  woman  in  a  bath  with  her  dog,  some  rare 
cornelians,  onyxes,  crystals,  etc.,  in  one  of  which  was  a 
drop  of  water  not  congealed,  but  moving  up  and  down, 
when  shaken;  above  all,  a  diamond  which  had  a  very 
fair  ruby  growing  in  it;  divers  pieces  of  amber,  wherein 
were  several  insects,  in  particular  one  cut  like  a  heart 
that    contained    in    it    a    salamander    without    the    least 


212  DIARY    OF  PADUA 

defect,  and  many  pieces  of  mosaic.  The  fabric  of  this 
cabinet  was  very  ingenious,  set  thick  with  agates,  tur- 
quoises, and  other  precious  stones,  in  the  midst  of  which 
was  an  antique  of  a  dog  in  stone  scratching  his  ear, 
very  rarely  cut,  and  comparable  to  the  greatest  curiosity 
I  had  ever  seen  of  that  kind  for  the  accurateness  of  the 
work.  The  next  chamber  had  a  bedstead  all  inlaid  with 
agates,  crystals,  cornelians,  lazuli,  etc.,  esteemed  worth 
16,000  crowns;  but,  for  the  most  part,  the  bedsteads  in 
Italy  are  of  forged  iron  gilded,  since  it  is  impossible  to 
keep  the  wooden  ones  from  the  cimices. 

From  hence,  I  returned  to  Padua,  when  that  town 
was  so  infested  with  soldiers,  that  many  houses  were 
broken  open  in  the  night,  some  murders  committed,  and 
the  nuns  next  our  lodging  disturbed,  so  as  we  were 
forced  to  be  on  our  guard  with  pistols  and  other  fire- 
arms to  defend  our  doors;  and  indeed  the  students  them- 
selves take  a  barbarous  liberty  in  the  evenings  when 
they  go  to  their  strumpets,  to  stop  all  that  pass  by  the 
house  where  any  of  their  companions  in  folly  are  with 
them.  This  custom  they  call  chi  vali^  so  as  the  streets 
are  very  dangerous,  when  the  evenings  grow  dark;  nor 
is  it  easy  to  reform  this  intolerable  usage,  where  there 
are   so  many  strangers  of  several   nations. 

Using  to  drink  my  wine  cooled  with  snow  and  ice,  as 
the  manner  here  is,  I  was  so  afflicted  with  an  angina 
and  sore  throat,  that  it  had  almost  cost  me  my  life. 
After  all  the  remedies  Cavalier  Veslingius,  chief  professor 
here,  could  apply,  old  Salvatico  (that  famous  physician) 
being  called,  made  me  be  cupped,  and  scarified  in  the 
back  in  four  places;  which  began  to  give  me  breath, 
and  consequently  life;  for  I  was  in  the  utmost  danger; 
but,  God  being  merciful  to  me,  I  was  after  a  fortnight 
abroad  again,  when,  changing  my  lodging,  I  went  over 
against  Pozzo  Pinto;  where  I  bought  for  winter  provi- 
sion 3,000  weight  of  excellent  grapes, -and  pressed  my  own 
wine,  which  proved  incomparable  liquor. 

This  was  on  loth  of  October  Soon  after  came  to  visit 
me  from  Venice  Mr.  Henry  Howard,  grandchild  to  the 
Earl  of  Arundel,  Mr.  Bramstone,  son  to  the  Lord  Chief 
Justice,  and  Mr.  Henshaw,  with  whom  I  went  to  another 
part  of  the  city  to  lodge  near  St.  Catherine's  over  against 
the  monastery  of  nims,  where  we  hired  the  whole  house, 


1645-46  JOHN    EVELYN  213 

and  lived  very  nobly.  Here  I  learned  to  play  on  the 
theorb,  thought  by  Signor  Dominico  Bassano,  who  had  a 
daughter  married  to  a  doctor  of  laws,  that  played  and 
sung  to  nine  several  instruments,  with  that  skill  and 
address  as  few  masters  in  Italy  exceeded  her;  she  like- 
wise composed  divers  excellent  pieces:  I  had  never  seen 
any  play  on  the  Naples  viol  before.  She  presented  me 
afterward  with  two  recitativos  of  hers,  both  words  and 
music. 

31st  October,  1645.  Being  my  birthday,  the  nuns  of 
St.  Catherine's  sent  me  flowers  of  silkwork.  We  were 
very  studious  all  this  winter  till  Christmas,  when  on 
Twelfth-day,  we  invited  all  the  English  and  Scots  in 
town  to  a  feast,  which  sunk  our  excellent  wine  consider- 
ably. 

1645-46.  In  January,  Signor  Molino  was  chosen  Doge 
of  Venice,  but  the  extreme  snow  that  fell,  and  the  cold, 
hindered  my  going  to  see  the  solemnity,  so  as  I  stirred 
not  from  Padua  till  Shrovetide,  when  all  the  world  repair 
to  Venice,  to  see  the  folly  and  madness  of  the  Carnival ; 
the  women,  men,  and  persons  of  all  conditions  disguising 
themselves  in  antique  dresses,  with  extravagant  music 
and  a  thousand  gambols,  traversing  the  streets  from  house 
to  house,  all  places  being  then  accessible  and  free  to  enter. 
Abroad,  they  fling  eggs  filled  with  sweet  water,  but  some- 
times not  over-sweet.  They  also  have  a  barbarous  custom 
of  hunting  bulls  about  the  streets  and  piazzas,  which  is 
very  dangerous,  the'  passages  being  generally  narrow. 
The  youth  of  the  several  wards  and  parishes  contend  in 
other  masteries  and  pastimes,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to 
recount  the  universal  madness  of  this  place  during  this 
time  of  license.  The  great  banks  are  set  up  for  those 
who  will  play  at  bassett ;  the  comedians  have  liberty,  and 
the  operas  are  open;  witty  pasquils  are  thrown  about, 
and  the  mountebanks  have  their  stages  at  every  corner. 
The  diversions  which  chiefly  took  me  up  was  three  noble 
operas,  where  were  excellent  voices  and  music,  the  most 
celebrated  of  which  was  the  famous  Anna  Rencia,  whom 
we  invited  to  a  fish  dinner  after  four  days  in  Lent, 
when  they  had  given  over  at  the  theater.  Accompanied 
with  an  eunuch  whom  she  brought  with  her,  she  enter- 
tained us  with  rare  music,  both  of  them  singing  to  a 
harpsichord.      It   growing   late,    a  gentleman   of   Venice 


214  DIARY   OF  VENICE 

came  for  her,  to  show  her  the  galleys,  now  ready  to  sail 
for  Candia.  This  entertainment  produced  a  second,  given 
us  by  the  English  consul  of  the  merchants,  inviting  us 
to  his  house,  where  he  had  the  Genoese,  the  most  cele- 
brated bass  in  Italy,  who  was  one  of  the  late  opera  band. 
This  diversion  held  us  so  late  at  night,  that,  conveying  a 
gentlewoman  who  had  supped  with  us  to  her  gondola  at 
the  usual  place  of  landing,  we  were  shot  at  by  two  car- 
bines from  another  gondola,  in  which  were  a  noble  Vene- 
tian and  his  courtesan  unwilling  to  be  disturbed,  which 
made  us  run  in  and  fetch  other  weapons,  not  knowing 
what  the  matter  was,  till  we  were  informed  of  the  danger 
we  might  incur  by  pursuing  it  farther. 

Three  days  after  this,  I  took  my  leave  of  Venice,  and 
went  to  Padua,  to  be  present  at  the  famous  anatomy 
lecture,  celebrated  here  with  extraordinary  apparatus, 
lasting  almost  a  whole  month.  During  this  time,  I  saw 
a  woman,  a  child,  and  a  man  dissected  with  all  the  man- 
ual operations  of  the  chirurgeon  on  the  human  body. 
The  one  was  performed  by  Cavalier  Veslingius  and  Dr. 
Jo.  Athelsteninus  Leonoenas,  of  whom  I  purchased  those 
rare  tables  of  veins  and  nerves,  and  caused  him  to  prepare  a 
third  of  the  lungs,  liver,  and  nervi  sexti  par:  with  the  gastric 
veins,  which  I  sent  into  England,  and  afterward  presented 
to  the  Royal  Society,  being  the  first  of  that  kind  that 
had  been  seen  there,  and,  for  aught  I  know,  in  the  world, 
though  afterward  there  were  others.  When  the  anatomy 
lectures,  which  were  in  the  mornings,  were  ended,  I  went 
to  see  cures  done  in  the  hospitals;  and  certainly  as  there 
are  the  greatest  helps  and  the  most  skillful  physicians,  so 
there  are  the  most  miserable  and  deplorable  objects  to 
to  exercise  upon.  Nor  is  there  any,  I  should  think,  so 
powerful  an  argument  against  the  vice  reigning  in  this 
licentious  country,  as  to  be  spectator  of  the  misery  these 
poor  creatures  undergo.  They  are  indeed  very  care- 
fully  attended,  and  with  extraordinary  charity. 

2oth  March,  1646.  I  returned  to  Venice,  where  I  took 
leave  of  my  friends. 

2  2d  March,  1646.  I  was  invited  to  excellent  English 
potted  venison,  at  Mr.   Hobbson's,  a  worthy  merchant. 

23d  March,  1646.  I  took  my  leave  of  the  Patriarch  and 
the  Prince  of  Wirtemberg,  and  Monsieur  Grotius  (son  of 
the  learned  Hugo)  now  going  as  commander  to    Candia; 


1646  JOHN   EVELYN  215 

and,  in  the  afternoon,  received  of  Vandervoort,  my  mer- 
chant, my  bills  of  exchange  of  300  ducats  for  my  jour- 
ney. He  showed  me  his  rare  collection  of  Italian  books, 
esteemed  very  curious,  and  of  good  value. 

The  next  day,  I  was  conducted  to  the  Ghetto,  where 
the  Jews  dwell  together  in  as  a  tribe  or  ward,  where  I 
was  present  at  a  marriage.  The  bride  was  clad  in  white, 
sitting  in  a  lofty  chair,  and  covered  with  a  white  veil; 
then  two  old  Rabbis  joined  them  together,  one  of  them 
holding  a  glass  of  wine  in  his  hand,  which,  in  the  midst 
of  the  ceremony,  pretending  to  deliver  to  the  woman,  he 
let  fall,  the  breaking  whereof  was  to  signify  the 
frailty  of  our  nature,  and  that  we  must  expect  disas- 
ters and  crosses  amid  all  enjoyments.  This  done  we 
had  a  fine  banquet,  and  were  brought  into  the  bride- 
chamber,  where  the  bed  was  dressed  up  with  flowers, 
and  the  counterpane  strewn  in  works.  At  this  ceremony, 
we  saw  divers  very  beautiful  Portuguese  Jewesses,  with 
whom  we  had  some  conversation. 

I  went  to  the  Spanish  Ambassador  with  Bonifacio,  his 
confessor,  and  obtained  his  pass  to  serve  me  in  the  Span- 
ish dominions ;  without  which  I  was  not  to  travel,  in  this 
pompous  form: 

'•^  Don  Caspar  de  Teves  y  Guzman,  Marques  de  la  Fuente,  Sehor 
Le  Lerena  y  Verazuza,  Commendador  de  Colos,  en  la  Orden  de  Sant 
Yago,  Alcalde  Mayor  perpetuo  y  Escrivano  Mayor  de  la  Ciudad 
de  Sevilla,  Gentilhombre  de  la  Camara  de  S.  M.  su  Azimtlero 
Mayor,  de  su  Consejo,  su  Embaxador  extraor  dinar  to  a  los  Prin- 
cipes  de  Italia,  y  Alemania,  y  a  est  a  serenissima  Republica  de 
Venetia,  etc.  Haviendo  de  partir  de  esta  Ciudad  para  La  Milan 
el  Signior  Cavallero  Evelyn  Ingles,  con  un  Criado,  mi  han  ped- 
ido  Passa-porte  para  los  Estatos  de  su  M.  Le  he  niandado  dar 
el  presente,  firmando  de  mi  mano,  y  sellado  con  el  sello  de  mis 
armas,  por  el  qual  encargo  a  todos  los  menestros  de  S.  M.  antes 
quien  le  presentase  y  a  los  que  no  lo  son,  supplico  les  dare  passar 
libramente  sin  permitir  que  se  le  haya  vexacion  alguna  antes 
mandar  le  las  favor  para  continuar  su  viage.  Fecho  en  Vene- 
cia a  24  del  mes  de   Marzo  del  atio  1646. 

Mar.    de   la  Fuentcs,   etc.'*'* 

Having  packed  up  my  purchases  of  books,  pictures,  casts, 
treacle,  etc.  (the  making  an  extraordinary  ceremony 
whereof  I  had  been  curious  to  observe,  for  it  is  ex- 
tremely pompous  and  worth  seeing),  I  departed  from 
Venice,    accompanied   with     Mr.    Waller    (the   celebrated 


2i6  DIARY    OF  VENICE 

poet),  now  newly  gotten  out  of  England,  after  the  Par- 
liament had  extremely  worried  him  for  attempting  to  put 
in  execution  the  commission  of  Array,  and  for  which 
the  rest  of  his  colleagues  were  hanged  by  the  rebels. 

The  next  day.  I  took  leave  of  my  comrades  at  Padua, 
and  receiving  some  directions  from  Dr.  Salvatico  as  to 
the  care  of  my  health,  I  prepared  for  my  journey  toward 
Milan. 

It  was  Easter- Monday  that  I  was  invited  to  breakfast 
at  the  Earl  of  Arundel's.  I  took  my  leave  of  him  in  his 
bed,  where  I  left  that  great  and  excellent  man  in  tears 
on  some  private  discourse  of  crosses  that  had  befallen 
his  illustrious  family,  particularly  the  undutifulness  of 
his  grandson  Philip  turning  Dominican  Friar  (since 
Cardinal  of  Norfolk),  and  the  misery  of  his  country  now 
embroiled  in  civil  war.  He  caused  his  gentleman  to 
give  me  directions,  all  written  with  his  own  hand,  what 
curiosities  I  should  inquire  after  in  my  journey;  and,  so 
enjoining  me  to  write  sometimes  to  him,  I  departed. 
There  stayed  for  me  below,  Mr.  Henry  Howard  (after- 
ward Duke  of  Norfolk),  Mr.  J.  Digby,  son  of  Sir  Kenelm 
Digby,  and  other  gentlemen,  who  conducted  me  to  the 
coach. 

The  famous  lapidaries  of  Venice  for  false  stones  and 
pastes,  so  as  to  emulate  the  best  diamonds,  rubies,  etc., 
were  Marco  Terrasso     and  Gilbert. 

An  account  of  what  Bills  of  Exchange  I  took  up  at  Venice  since 
my  coming  from  Rome,  till  my  departure  from   Padua: 


nth  Aug.,  1645 

200 

7th  Sept. 

135 

ist  Oct.       . 

100 

15th  Jan.,  1646 

100 

23d  April 

300 

835  Ducati  di  Banco. 

In  company,  then,  with  Mr.  Waller,  one  Captain  Wray 
(son  of  Sir  Christopher,  whose  father  had  been  in  arms 
against  his  Majesty,  and  therefore  by  no  means  welcome 
to  us),  with  Mr.  Abdy,  a  modest  and  learned  man,  we 
got  that  night  to  Vicenza,  passing  by  the  Eugan^an  hills, 
celebrated  for  the  prospects  and  furniture  of  rare  simples, 
which  we  found  growing  about  them.  The  ways  were 
something   deep,  the   whole   country   flat  and  even  as  a 


1646  JOHN  EVELYN  217 

bowling-green.  The  common  fields  lie  square,  and  are 
orderly  planted  with  fruit  trees,  which  the  vines  run  and 
embrace,  for  many  miles,  with  delicious  streams  creeping 
along  the  ranges. 

Vicenza  is  a  city  in  the  Marquisate  of  Treviso,  yet 
appertaining  to  the  Venetians,  full  of  gentlemen  and 
splendid  palaces,  to  which  the  famous  Palladio,  bom  here, 
has  exceedingly  contributed,  having  been  the  architect. 
Most  conspicuous  is  the  Hall  of  Justice;  it  has  a  tower 
of  excellent  work ;  the  lower  pillars  are  of  the  first  order ; 
those  in  the  three  upper  corridors  are  Doric ;  under  them, 
are  shops  in  a  spacious  piazza.  The  hall  was  built  in 
imitation  of  that  at  Padua,  but  of  a  nobler  design,  h  la 
moderne.  The  next  morning,  we  visited  the  theater,  as 
being  of  that  kind  the  most  perfect  now  standing,  and 
built  by  Palladio,  in  exact  imitation  of  the  ancient 
Romans,  and  capable  of  containing  5,000  spectators.  The 
scene,  which  is  all  of  stone,  represents  an  imperial  city, 
the  order  Corinthian,  decorated  with  statues.  Over  the 
Scenario  is  inscribed :  "  Virtuti  ac  Genio  Olympior:  Aca- 
demia  Theatrum  hoc  a  fundainentis  erexit  Palladio  Architect: 
1584..  ®  The  scene  declines  eleven  feet,  the  soffito  painted 
with  clouds.  To  this  there  joins  a  spacious  hall  for 
solemn  days  to  ballot  in,  and  a  second  for  the  Academics. 
In  the  piazza  is  also  the  podesta,  or  governor's  house, 
the  facciata  being  of  the  Corinthian  order,  very  noble. 
The  piazza  itself  is  so  large  as  to  be  capable  of  jousts 
and  tournaments,  the  nobility  of  this  city  being  exceed- 
ingly addicted  to  this  knight-errantry,  and  other  martial 
diversions.  In  this  place  are  two  pillars  in  imitation  of 
of  those  at  St.  Mark's  at  Venice,  bearing  one  of  them 
a  winged  lion,  the  other  the  statue  of  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist. 

In  a  word,  this  sweet  town  has  more  well-built  palaces 
than  any  of  its  dimensions  in  all  Italy,  besides  a  number 
begun  and  not  yet  finished  ( but  of  stately  design )  by 
reason  of  the  domestic  dissensions  between  them  and  those 
of  Brescia,  fomented  by  the  sage  Venetians,  lest  by  com- 
bining, they  might  think  of  recovering  their  ancient 
liberty.  For  this  reason,  also,  are  permitted  those  dis- 
orders and  insolences  committed  at  Padua  among  the 
yoath  of  these  two  territories.  It  is  no  dishonor  in  this 
country  to  be  some  generations  in  finishing  their  palaces. 


ai8  DIARY  OF  verona 

that  without  exhausting  themselves  by  a  vast  expense  at 
once,  they  may  at  last  erect  a  sumptuous  pile.  Count 
Oleine's  Palace  is  near  perfected  in  this  manner.  Count 
Ulmarini  is  more  famous  for  his  gardens,  being  without 
the  walls,  especially  his  cedrario,  or  conserve  of  oranges, 
eleven  score  of  my  paces  long,  set  in  order  and  ranges, 
making  a  canopy  all  the  way  by  their  intermixing  branches 
for  more  than  200  of  my  single  paces,  and  which  being 
full  of  fruit  and  blossoms,  was  a  most  delicious  sight. 
In  the  middle  of  this  garden,  was  a  cupola  made  of  wire, 
supported  by  slender  pillars  of  brick,  so  closely  covered 
with  ivy,  both  without  and  within,  that  nothing  was  to 
be  perceived  but  green ;  between  the  arches  there  dangled 
festoons  of  the  same.  Here  is  likewise  a  most  inextric- 
able labyrinth. 

I  had  in  this  town  recommendation  to  a  very  civil  and 
ingenious  apothecary,  called  Angelico,  who  had  a  pretty 
collection  of  paintings.  I  would  fain  have  visited  a 
palace,  called  the  Rotunda,  which  was  a  mile  out  of  town, 
belonging  to  Count  Martio  Capra;  but  one  of  our  com- 
panions hastening  to  be  gone,  and  little  minding  any- 
thing save  drinking  and  folly,  caused  us  to  take  coach 
sooner  than  we  should  have  done. 

A  little  from  the  town,  we  passed  the  Campo  Martio, 
set  out  in  imitation  of  ancient  Rome,  wherein  the  nobles 
exercised  their  horses,  and  the  ladies  make  the  Corso;  it 
is  entered  by  a  stately  triumphal  arch,  the  invention  of 
Palladia 

Being  now  set  out  for  Verona,  about  midway  we  dined 
at  Ostaria  Nova,  and  came  late  to  our  resting-place, 
which  was  the  Cavaletto,  just  over  the  monument  of 
the  Scalageri,*  formerly  princes  of  Verona,  adorned  with 
many  devices  in   stone  of  ladders,  alluding  to  the  name. 

Early  next  morning,  we  went  about  the  city,  which  is 
built  on  the  gentle  declivity,  and  bottom  of  a  hill,  en- 
vironed in  part  with  some  considerable  mountains  and 
downs  of  fine  grass,  like  some  places  in  the  south  of 
England,  and,  on  the  other  side,  having  the  rich  plain 
where  Caius  Marius  overthrew  the  Cimbrians.  The  city 
is  divided  in  the  midst  by  the  river  Adige,  over  which 
are  divers  stately  bridges,  and  on  its  banks  are  many 
goodly  palaces,  whereof  one  is  well  painted  in  chiaro-oscuro 

•OrdeUaScala. 


1646  JOHN   EVELYN  219 

on  the  outside,  as  are  divers  in  this  dry  climate  of 
Italy. 

The  first  thing  that  engaged  our  attention  and  wonder, 
too,  was  the  amphitheater,  which  is  the  most  entire  of 
ancient  remains  now  extant.  The  inhabitants  call  it  the 
Arena  :  it  has  two  porticos,  one  within  the  other,  and  is 
thirty-four  rods  long,  twenty-two  in  breadth,  with  forty- 
two  ranks  of  stone  benches,  or  seats,  which  reach  to  the 
top.  The  vastness  of  the  marble  stones  is  stupendous. 
*  L.  V.  Flaniinius^  Consul,  anno.  urb.  con.  liii.  *  This  I 
esteem  to  be  one  of  the  noblest  antiquities  in  Europe,  it 
is  so  vast  and  entire,  having  escaped  the  ruins  of  so 
many  other  public  buildings  for  above  1,400  years. 

There  are  other  arches,  as  that  of  the  victory  of 
Marius;  temples,  aqueducts,  etc.,  showing  still  consider- 
able remains  in  several  places  of  the  town,  and  how 
magnificent  it  has  formerly  been.  It  has  three  strong 
castles  and  a  large  and  noble  wall.  Indeed,  the  whole 
city  is  bravely  built,  especially  the  Senate  house,  where 
we  saw  those  celebrated  statues  of  Cornelius  Nepos, 
^milius  Marcus,  Plinius,  and  Vitruvius,  all  having  hon- 
ored Verona  by  their  birth;  and,  of  later  date,  Julius 
Caesar  Scaliger,  that  prodigy  of  learning. 

In  the  evening  we  saw  the  garden  of  Count  Giusti's 
villa  where  are  walks  cut  out  of  the  main  rock,  from 
whence  we  had  a  pleasant  prospect  of  Mantua  and  Parma, 
though  at  great  distance.  At  the  entrance  of  this  gar- 
den, grows  the  goodliest  cypress,  I  fancy,  in  Europe,  cut 
in  a  pyramid;  it  is  a  prodigious  tree  both  for  breadth 
and  height,  entirely  covered,  and  thick  to  the  base. 

Dr.  Cortone,  a  civilian,  showed  us,  among  other  rarities, 
a  St.  Dorothea,  of  Raphael.  We  could  not  see  the  rare 
drawings,  especially  of  Parmensis,  belonging  to  Dr.  Mar- 
cello,  another  advocate,  on  account  of  his  absence. 

Verona  deserved  all  those  elogies  Scaliger  has  hon- 
ored it  with ;  for  in  my  opinion,  the  situation  is  the  most 
delightful  I  ever  saw,  it  is  so  sweetly  mixed  with  rising 
ground  and  valleys,  so  elegantly  planted  with  trees  on 
which  Bacchus  seems  riding  as  it  were  in  triumph  every 
autumn,  for  the  vines  reach  from  tree  to  tree ;  here,  of  all 
places  I  have  seen  in  Italy,  would  I  fix  a  residence. 
Well  has  that  learned  man  given  it  the  name  of  the  very 
eye  of  the   world: 


220  DIARY    OF  BRESCIA 

®  Oscelle  mundt,  Sidus  Itali  ccelz, 
Flos   Urbiutn,  Jlos  cornicuuTnq'  amcenum, 
Quot  sunt,  eruntve,  quot  fuere,    Verona?'* 

The  next  morning  we  traveled  over  the  downs  where 
Marius  fought  and  fancied  ourselves  about  Winchester, 
and  the  country  toward  Dorsetshire,  We  dined  at  an  inn 
called  Cavalli  Caschieri,  near  Peschiera,  a  very  strong 
fort  of  the  Venetian  Republic,  and  near  the  Lago  di 
Garda,  which  disembogues  into  that  of  Mantua,  near  forty 
miles  in  length,  highly  spoken  of  by  my  Lord  Arundel 
to  me,  as  the  most  pleasant  spot  in  Italy,  for  which  reason 
I  observed  it  with  the  more  diligence,  alighting  out  of 
the  coach,  and  going  up  to  a  grove  of  cypresses  growing 
about  a  gentleman's  country-house,  from  whence  indeed 
it  presents  a  most  surprising  prospect.  The  hills  and 
gentle  risings  about  it  produce  oranges,  citrons,  olives, 
figs,  and  other  tempting  fruits,  and  the  waters  abound 
in  excellent  fish,  especially  trouts.  In  the  middle  of  this 
lake  stands  Sermonea,  on  an  island;  here  Captain  Wray 
bought  a  pretty  nag  of  the  master  of  our  inn  where  we 
dined,  for  eight  pistoles,  which  his  wife,  our  hostess,  was 
so  unwilling  to  part  with,  that  she  did  nothing  but  kiss 
and  weep  and  hang  about  the  horse's  neck,  till  the  cap- 
tain rode   away. 

We  came  this  evening  to  Brescia,  which  next  morning 
we  traversed,  according  to  our  custom,  in  search  of  an- 
tiquities and  new  sights.  Here,  I  purchased  of  old  Laz- 
arino  Cominazzo  my  fine  carbine,  which  cost  me  nine 
pistoles,  this  city  being  famous  for  these  firearms,  and 
that  workman,  Jo.  Bap.  Franco,  the  best  esteemed.  The 
city  consists  most  in  artists,  every  shop  abounding  in 
guns,  swords,  armorers,  etc.  Most  of  the  workmen  come 
out  of  Germany.  It  stands  in  a  fertile  plain,  yet  the 
castle  is  built  on  a  hill.  The  streets  abound  in  fair 
fountains.  The  Torre  della  Pallada  is  of  a  noble  Tuscan 
order,  and  the  Senate  house  is  inferior  to  few.  The  pi- 
azza Ts  but  indifferent;  some  of  the  houses  arched  as  at 
Padua.  The  Cathedral  was  under  repair.  We  would 
from  hence  have  visited  Parma,  Piacenza,  Mantua,  etc. ; 
but  the  banditti  and  other  dangerous  parties  being 
abroad,  committing  many  enormities,  we  were  contented 
with  a  Pisgah  sight  of  them. 

We  dined  next  day,  at  Ursa   Vecchia,    and,    after   din- 


1646  JOHN   EVELYN  221 

ner,  passed  by  an  exceeding  strong-  fort  of  the  Venetians, 
called  Ursa  Nova,  on  their  frontier.  Then  by  the  river 
Oglio,  and  so  by  Sonano,  where  we  enter  the  Spanish 
dominions,  and  that  night  arrived  at  Crema,  which  belongs 
to  Venice,  and  is  well  defended.  The  Podesta's  Palace  is 
finely  built,  and  so  is  the  Duomo,  or  Cathedral,  and  the 
tower  to  it,  with  an  ample  piazza. 

Early  next  day,  after  four  miles'  riding,  we  entered 
into  the  State  of  Milan,  and  passed  by  Lodi,  a  great  city 
famous  for  cheese,  little  short  of  the  best  Parmeggiano. 
We  dined  at  Marignano,  ten  miles  before  coming  to 
Milan,  where  we  met  half  a  dozen  suspicious  cavaliers, 
who  yet  did  us  no  harm.  Then,  passing  as  through  a 
continual  garden,  we  went  on  with  exceeding  pleasure; 
for  it  is  the  Paradise  of  Lombardy,  the  highways  as  even 
and  straight  as  a  line,  the  fields  to  a  vast  extent  planted 
with  fruit  about  the  inclosures,  vines  to  every  tree  at 
equal  distances,  and  watered  with  frequent  streams. 
There  was  likewise  much  com,  and  olives  in  abundance. 
At  approach  of  the  city,  some  of  our  company,  in  dread 
of  the  Inquisition  (severer  here  than  in  all  Spain), 
thought  of  throwing  away  some  Protestant  books  and 
papers.  We  arrived  about  three  in  the  afternoon,  when 
the  ofl&cers  searched  us  thoroughly  for  prohibited  goods; 
but,  finding  we  were  only  gentlemen  travelers,  dismissed 
us  for  a  small  reward,  and  we  went  quietly  to  our  inn, 
the  Three  Kings,  where,  for  that  day,  we  refreshed  our- 
selves, as  we  had  need.  The  next  morning,  we  delivered 
our  letters  of  recommendation  to  the  learned  and  courte- 
ous Ferrarius,  a  Doctor  of  the  Ambrosian  College,  who 
conducted  us  to  all  the  remarkable  places  of  the  town, 
the  first  of  which  was  the  famous  Cathedral,  We  entered 
by  a  portico,  so  little  inferior  to  that  of  Rome  that, 
when  it  is  finished,  it  will  be  hard  to  say  which  is  the 
fairest;  the  materials  are  all  of  white  and  black  marble, 
with  columns  of  great  height,  of  Egyptian  granite.  The 
outside  of  the  church  is  so  full  of  sculpture,  that  you  may 
number  4,000  statues,  all  of  white  marble,  among  which 
that  of  St.  Bartholomew  is  esteemed  a  masterpiece.  The 
church  is  very  spacious,  almost  as  long  as  St.  Peter's  at 
Rome,  but  not  so  large.  About  the  choir,  the  sacred 
Story  is  finely  sculptured,  in  snow-white  marble,  nor  know 
I  where  it  is  exceeded.     About  the  body  of  the  church 


232  DIARY    OF  MILAN 

are  the  miracles  of  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  and  in  the 
vault  beneath  is  his  body  before  the  high  altar,  grated, 
and  inclosed,  in  one  of  the  largest  crystals  in  Europe. 
To  this  also  belongs  a  rich  treasure.  The  cupola  is  all 
of  marble  within  and  without,  and  even  covered  with 
great  planks  of  marble,  in  the  Gothic  design.  The  win- 
dows are  most  beautifully  painted.  Here  are  two  very 
fair  and  excellent  organs.  The  fabric  is  erected  in 
the  midst  of  a  fair  piazza,  and  in  the  center  of  the 
city. 

Hence,  we  went  to  the  Palace  of  the  Archbishop,  which 
is  a  quadrangle,  the  architecture  of  Theobaldi,  who  de- 
signed much  for  Philip  II.  in  the  Escurial,  and  has  built 
much  in  Milan.  Hence,  into  the  Governor's  Palace,  who 
was  Constable  of  Castile.  Tempted  by  the  glorious  tapes- 
tries and  pictures,  I  adventured  so  far  alone,  that  peep- 
ing into  a  chamber  where  the  great  man  was  under  the 
barber's  hands,  he  sent  one  of  his  negroes  (a  slave) 
to  know  what  I  was.  I  made  the  best  excuse  I  could, 
and  that  I  was  only  admiring  the  pictures,  which  he  re- 
turning and  telling  his  lord,  I  heard  the  Governor  reply 
that  I  was  a  spy;  on  which  I  retired  with  all  the  speed 
I  could,  passed  the  guard  of  Swiss,  got  into  the  street, 
and  in  a  moment  to  my  company,  who  were  gone  to  the 
Jesuits'  Church,  which  in  truth  is  a  noble  structure,  the 
front  especially,  after  the  modern.  After  dinner,  we 
were  conducted  to  St.  Celso,  a  church  of  rare  architec- 
ture, built  by  Bramante ;  the  carvings  of  the  marble  fac- 
ciata  are  by  Annibal  Fontana,  whom  they  esteem  at 
Milan  equal  to  the  best  of  the  ancients.  In  a  room  join- 
ing to  the  church,  is  a  marble  Madonna,  like  a  Colosse,  of 
the  same  sculptor's  work,  which  they  will  not  expose  to 
the  air.  There  are  two  sacristias^  in  one  of  which  is  a 
fine  Virgin,  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci ;  in  the  other  is  one  of 
Raphael  d'Urbino,  a  piece  which  all  the  world  admires. 
The  Sacristan  showed  us  a  world  of  rich  plate,  jewels, 
and  embroidered  copes,  which  are  kept  in  presses. 

Next,  we  went  to  see  the  Great  Hospital,  a  quadran- 
gular cloister  of  a  vast  compass,  a  truly  royal  fabric,  with 
an  annual  endowment  of  50,000  crowns  of  gold.  There 
is  in  the  middle  of  it  a  cross  building  for  the  sick,  and, 
just  under  it,  an  altar  so  placed  as  to  be  seen  in  all 
places  of  the  Infirmary. 


1646  JOHN  EVELYN  223 

There  are  divers  colleges  built  in  this  quarter,  richly- 
provided  for  by  the  same  Borromeo  and  his  nephew,  the 
last  Cardinal  Frederico,  some  not  yet  finished,  but  of  ex- 
cellent design. 

In  St.  Eustorgio,  they  tell  us,  formerly  lay  the  bodies 
of  the  three  Magi,  since  translated  to  Cologne  in  Ger- 
many; they,  however,  preserve  the  tomb,  which  is  a 
square  stone,  on  which  is  engraven  a  star,  and,  under  it, 
*•*•  Sepulchrujn  triuni  Magoruni.^^ 

Passing  by  St.  Laurence,  we  saw  sixteen  columns  of 
marble,  and  the  ruins  of  a  Temple  of  Hercules,  with  this 
inscription  yet  standing: 

«//«/.  Ccesart  L.  Aurelio  Vera  Aug.  Arminiaco  Medio  Parthdco 
Maxi  Tribi  Pott  VII.  Impi  IIII.  Cos.  III.  P.  P.  Divi  Antonini 
Pij  Divi  Hadriani  Nepoti  Divi  Trajani  Parthici  Pro-Nepoti  Divt 
Nervce  Abnepoti  Dec.  Dec.''* 

We  concluded  this  day's  wandering  at  the  Monastery  of 
Madonna  delle  Grazie,  and  in  the  refectory  admired  that 
celebrated  Coena  Dommi  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  which 
takes  up  the  entire  wall  at  the  end,  and  is  the  same 
that  the  great  virtuoso,  Francis  I.,  of  France,  was  so 
enamored  of,  that  he  consulted  to  remove  the  whole  wall 
by  binding  it  about  with  ribs  of  iron  and  timber,  to  con- 
vey it  into  France.  It  is  indeed  one  of  the  rarest  paint- 
ings that  was  ever  executed  by  Leonardo,  who  was  long 
in  the  service  of  that  Prince,  and  so  dear  to  him  that  the 
King,  coming  to  visit  him  in  his  old  age  and  sickness,  he 
expired  in  his  arms.  But  this  incomparable  piece  is  now 
exceedingly  impaired. 

Early  next  morning  came  the  learned  Dr.  Ferrarius  to 
visit  us,  and  took  us  in  his  coach  to  see  the  Ambrosian 
Library,  where  Cardinal  Fred  Borromeo  has  expended  so 
vast  a  sum  on  this  building,  and  in  furnishing  with  curi- 
osities, especially  paintings  and  drawings  of  inestimable 
value  among  painters.  It  is  a  school  fit  to  make  the 
ablest  artists.  There  are  many  rare  things  of  Hans 
Breugel,  and  among  them  the  Four  Elements.  In  this 
room,  stands  the  glorious  [boasting]  inscription  of  Cav- 
aliero  Galeazzo  Arconati,  valuing  his  gift  to  the  library  of 
several  drawings  by  Da  Vinci ;  but  these  we  could  not  see, 
the  keeper  of  them  being  out  of  town,  and  he  always 
carr}4ng  the  keys  with  him;  but  my  Lord  Marshal,  who 
had  seen  them,  told  me  all  but  one  book  are  small   that 


224  DIARY    OF  MILAN 

a  huge  folio  contained  400  leaves  full  of  scratches  of 
Indians,  etc.  But  whereas  the  inscription  pretends  that 
our  King  Charles  had  offered  ^^1,000  for  them, —  the  truth 
is,  and  my  Lord  himself  told  me,  that  it  was  he  who 
treated  with  Galeazzo  for  himself,  in  the  name  and  by 
permission  of  the  King,  and  that  the  Duke  of  Feria,  who 
was  then  Governor,  should  make  the  bargain;  but  my 
Lord,  having  seen  them  since,  did  not  think  them  of  so 
much  worth. 

In  the  great  room,  where  is  a  goodly  library,  on  the 
right  hand  of  the  door,  is  a  small  wainscot  closet,  fur- 
nished with  rare  manuscripts.  Two  original  letters  of  the 
Grand  Signor  were  shown  us,  sent  to  two  Popes,  one  of 
which  was  (as  I  remember)  to  Alexander  VI.  [Borgia],  and 
the  other  mentioning  the  head  of  the  lance  which  pierced 
our  Blessed  Savior's  side,  as  a  present  to  the  Pope:  I 
would  feign  have  gotten  a  copy  of  them,  but  could  not; 
I  hear,  however,  that  they  are  since  translated  into  Italian, 
and  that  therein  is  a  most  honorable  mention  of   Christ 

We  revisited  St.  Ambrose's  church.  The  high  altar  is 
supported  by  four  porphyry  columns,  and  under  it  lie  the 
remains  of  that  holy  man.  Near  it  they  showed  us  a  pit,  or 
well  (an  obscure  place  it  is),  where  they  say  St.  Ambrose 
baptized  St.  Augustine,  and  recited  the  Te  Deum;  for  so 
imports  the  inscription.  The  place  is  also  famous  for  some 
Councils  that  have  been  held  here,  and  for  the  coronation 
of  divers  Italian  Kings  and  Emperors,  receiving  the  iron 
crown  from  the  Archbishop  of  this  see.*  They  show  the 
History  by  Josephus,  written  on  the  bark  of  trees.  The 
high  altar  is  wonderfully  rich. 

Milan  is  one  of  the  most  princely  cities  in  Europe :  it  has 
no  suburbs,  but  is  circled  with  a  stately  wall  for  ten  miles, 
in  the  center  of  a  country  that  seems  to  flow  with  milk 
and  honey.  The  air  is  excellent;  the  fields  fruitful  to 
admiration,  the  market  abounding  with  all  sorts  of  pro- 
visions. In  the  city  are  near  100  churches,  71  monas- 
teries, and  40,000  inhabitants;  it  is  of  a  circular  figure, 
fortified  with  bastions,  full  of  sumptuous  palaces  and  rare 
artists,  especially  for  works  in  crystal,  which  is  here  cheap, 
being  found  among  the  Alps.  They  have  curious  straw- 
work  among  the  nuns,  even  to  admiration.  It  has  a  good 
river,  and  a  citadel  at  some  small  distance  from  the  city, 
♦  Bonaparte  afterward  took  it,  and  placed  it  on  his  own  head. 


1646  JOHN  EVELYN  225 

commanding-  it,  of  great  strength  for  its  works  and 
munitions  of  all  kinds.  It  was  built  by  Galeatius  II., 
and  consists  of  four  bastions,  and  works  at  the  angles  and 
fronts ;  the  graff  is  faced  with  brick  to  a  very  great  depth ; 
has  two  strong  towers  as  one  enters,  and  within  is  another 
fort,  and  spacious  lodgings  for  the  soldiers,  and  for  exer- 
cising them.  No  accommodation  for  strength  is  wanting, 
and  all  exactly  uniform.  They  have  here  also  all  sorts  of 
work  and  tradesmen,  a  great  magazine  of  arms  and  pro- 
visions. The  fosse  is  of  spring  water,  with  a  mill  for 
gprinding  corn,  and  the  ramparts  vaulted  underneath.  Don 
Juan  Vasques  Coronada  was  now  Governor;  the  garrison 
Spaniards  only. 

There  is  nothing  better  worth  seeing  than  the  collection 
of  Signor  Septalla,  a  canon  of  St.  Ambrose,  famous  over 
Christendom  for  his  learning  and  virtues.  Among  other 
things,  he  showed  us  an  Indian  wood,  that  has  the  perfect 
scent  of  civet;  a  flint,  or  pebble,  that  has  a  quantity  of 
water  in  it,  which  is  plainly  to  be  seen,  it  being  clear  as 
agate;  divers  crystals  that  have  water  moving  in  them, 
some  of  them  having  plants,  leaves,  and  hog's  bristles  in 
them;  much  amber  full  of  insects,  and  divers  things  of 
woven  amianthus. 

Milan  is  a  sweet  place,  and  though  the  streets  are  nar- 
row, they  abound  in  rich  coaches,  and  are  full  of  noblesse, 
who  frequent  the  course  every  night.  Walking  a  turn  in 
the  portico  before  the  dome,  a  cavaliero  who  passed  by, 
hearing  some  of  us  speaking  English,  looked  a  good  while 
earnestly  on  us,  and  by  and  by  sending  his  servant,  desiring 
we  would  honor  him  the  next  day  at  dinner.  We  looked 
on  this  as  an  odd  invitation,  he  not  speaking  to  us  him- 
self, but  we  returned  his  civility  with  thanks,  though  not 
fully  resolved  what  to  do,  or  indeed  what  might  be  the 
meaning  of  it  in  this  jealous  place ;  but  on  inquiry,  it  was 
told  us  he  was  a  Scots  Colonel,  who  had  an  honorable 
command  in  the  city,  so  that  we  agreed  to  go.  This  after- 
noon, we  were  wholly  taken  up  in  seeing  an  opera  rep- 
resented by  some  Neapolitans,  performed  all  in  excellent 
music  with  rare  scenes,  in  which  there  acted  a  celebrated 
beauty. 

Next  morning,  we  went  to  the  Colonel's,  who  had  sent 
his  servant  again  to  conduct  us  to  his  house,  which  we 
found  to  be  a  noble  palace,  richly  furnished.  There  were 
X5 


226  DIARY  OF  MILAN 

other  guests,  all  soldiers,  one  of  them  a  Scotchman,  but 
we  could  not  leam  one  of  their  names.  At  dinner,  he 
excused  his  rudeness  that  he  had  not  himself  spoken  to 
us;  telling  us  it  was  his  custom,  when  he  heard  of  any 
English  travelers  (who  but  rarely  would  be  known  to 
pass  through  that  city  for  fear  of  the  Inquisition),  to  in- 
vite them  to  his  house,  where  they  might  be  free.  We 
had  a  sumptuous  dinner;  and  the  wine  was  so  tempting, 
that  after  some  healths  had  gone  about,  and  we  had  risen 
from  the  table,  the  Colonel  led  us  into  his  hall,  where 
there  hung  up  divers  colors,  saddles,  bridles,  pistols,  and 
other  arms,  being  trophies  which  he  had  taken  with  his 
own  hands  from  the  enemy;  among  them,  he  would  needs 
bestow  a  pair  of  pistols  on  Captain  Wray,  one  of  our 
fellow-travelers,  and  a  good  drinking  gentleman,  and  on 
me  a  Turkish  bridle  woven  with  silk  and  very  curiously 
embossed,  with  other  silk  trappings,  to  which  hung  a  half 
moon  finely  wrought,  which  he  had  taken  from  a  bashaw 
whom  he  had  slain.  With  this  glorious  spoil,  I  rode  the 
rest  of  my  journey  as  far  as  Paris,  and  brought  it  after- 
ward into  England.  He  then  showed  us  a  stable  of  brave 
horses,  with  his  menage  and  cavalerizzo.  Some  of  the 
horses  he  caused  to  be  brought  out,  which  he  mounted, 
and  performed  all  the  motions  of  an  excellent  horseman. 
When  this  was  done,  and  he  had  alighted, — contrary  to 
the  advice  of  his  gfroom  and  page,  who  knew  the  nature 
of  the  beast,  and  that  their  master  was  a  little  spirited 
with  wine,  he  would  have  a  fiery  horse  that  had  not  yet 
been  managed  and  was  very  ungovernable,  but  was  other- 
wise a  very  beautiful  creature;  this  he  mounting,  the 
horse,  getting  the  reins  in  a  full  carriere,  rose  so  desper- 
ately that  he  fell  quite  back,  crushing  the  Colonel  so 
forcibly  against  the  wall  of  the  menage,  that  though  he 
sat  on  him  like  a  Centaur,  yet  recovering  the  jade  on  all 
fours  again,  he  desired  to  be  taken  down  and  so  led  in, 
where  he  cast  himself  on  a  pallet;  and,  with  infinite 
lamentations,  after  some  time  we  took  leave  of  him,  be- 
ing now  speechless.  The  next  morning,  going  to  visit 
him,  we  found  before  the  door  the  canopy  which  they 
usually  carry  over  the  host,  and  some  with  lighted  tapers ; 
which  made  us  suspect  he  was  in  a  very  sad  condition,  and 
so  indeed  we  found  him,  an  Irish  Friar  standing  by  his 
bedside  as  confessing  him,  or  at  least  disguising  a  con- 


1646  JOHN   EVELYN  227 

fession,  and  other  ceremonies  used  in  extremis;  for  we 
afterward  learned  that  the  gentleman  was  a  Protestant, 
and  had  this  Friar,  his  confidant ;  which  was  a  dangerous 
thing  at  Milan,  had  it  been  but  suspected.  At  our  entrance, 
he  sighed  grievously,  and  held  up  his  hands,  but  was  not 
able  to  speak.  After  vomiting  some  blood,  he  kindly  took 
us  all  by  the  hand,  and  made  signs  that  he  should  see  us  ^ 
no  more,  which  made  us  take  our  leave  of  him  with 
extreme  reluctancy  and  affliction  for  the  accident.  This 
sad  disaster  made  us  consult  about  our  departure  as  soon 
as  we  could,  not  knowing  how  we  might  be  inquired 
after,  or  engaged,  the  Inquisition  being  so  cruelly  formi- 
dable and  inevitable,  on  the  least  suspicion.  The  next 
morning,  therefore,  discharging  our  lodgings,  we  agreed 
for  a  coach  to  carry  us  to  the  foot  of  the  Alps,  not  a  little 
concerned  for  the  death  of  the  Colonel,  which  we  now 
heard  of,  and  who  had  so  courteously  entertained  us. 

The  first  day  we  got  as  far  as  Castellanza,  by  which 
runs  a  considerable  river  into  Lago  Maggiore;  here,  at 
dinner,  were  two  or  three  Jesuits,  who  were  very  prag- 
matical and  inquisitive,  whom  we  declined  conversa- 
tion with  as  decently  as  we  could;  so  we  pursued  our 
journey  through  a  most  fruitful  plain,  but  the  weather  • 
was  wet  and  uncomfortable.  At  night,  we  lay  at 
Sesto. 

The  next  morning,  leaving  our  coach,  we  embarked 
in  a  boat  to  carry  us  over  the  lake  (being  one  of  the 
largest  in  Europe),  and  whence  we  could  see  the 
towering  Alps,  and  among  them  the  great  San  Ber- 
nardo, esteemed  the  highest  mountain  in  Europe,  appear- 
ing to  be  some  miles  above  the  clouds.  Through  this 
vast  water,  passes  the  river  Ticinus,  which  discharges 
itself  into  the  Po,  by  which  means  Helvetia  transports 
her  merchandizes  into  Italy,  which  we  now  begfin  to 
leave   behind  us. 

Having  now  sailed  about  two  leagues,  we  were  hauled 
ashore  at  Arona,  a  strong  town  belongfing  to  the  Duchy 
of  Milan,  where,  being  examined  by  the  Governor,  and 
paying  a  small  duty,  we  were  dismissed.  Opposite  to 
this  fort,  is  Angiera,  another  small  town,  the  passage 
very  pleasant  with  the  prospect  of  the  Alps  covered 
with  pine  and  fir  trees,  and  above  them  snow.  We 
passed   the   pretty  island   Isabella,    about  the  middle  of 


328  DIARY   OF  I9©LA 

the  lake,  on  which  is  a  fair  house  built  on  a  mount; 
indeed,  the  whole  island  is  a  mount  ascended  by  sev- 
eral terraces  and  walks  all  set  above  with  orange  and 
citron  trees. 

The  next  we  saw  was  Isola,  and  we  left  on  our  right 
hand  the  Isle  of  St.  Jovanni;  and  so  sailing  by  another 
small  town  built  also  on  an  island,  we  arrived  at  night 
at  Margazzo,  an  obscure  village  at  the  end  of  the  lake, 
and  at  the  very  foot  of  the  Alps,  which  now  rise  as  it 
were  suddenly  after  some  hundreds  of  miles  of  the  most 
even  country  in  the  world,  and  where  there  is  hardly  a 
stone  to  be  found,  as  if  Nature  had  here  swept  up  the 
rubbish  of  the  earth  in  the  Alps,  to  form  and  clear  the 
plains  of  Lombardy,  which  we  had  hitherto  passed  since 
our  coming  from  Venice.  In  this  wretched  place,  I  lay 
on  a  bed  stuffed  with  leaves,  which  made  such  a  crack- 
ling and  did  so  prick  my  skin  through  the  tick,  that  I 
could  not  sleep.  The  next  morning,  I  was  furnished 
with  an  ass,  for  we  could  not  get  horses ;  instead  of  stir- 
rups, we  had  ropes  tied  with  a  loop  to  put  our  feet  in, 
which  supplied  the  place  of  other  trappings.  Thus,  with 
my  gallant  steed,  bridled  with  my  Turkish  present,  we 
passed  through  a  reasonably  pleasant  but  very  narrow 
valley,  till  we  came  to  Duomo,  where  we  rested,  and, 
having  showed  the  Spanish  pass,  the  Governor  would 
press  another  on  us,  that  his  secretary  might  get  a 
crown.  Here  we  exchanged  our  asses  for  mules,  sure- 
footed on  the  hills  and  precipices,  being  accustomed  to 
pass  them.  Hiring  a  gfuide,  we  were  brought  that  night 
through  very  steep,  craggy,  and  dangerous  passages  to  a 
village  called  Vedra,  being  the  last  of  the  King  of  Spain's 
dominions  in  the  Duchy  of  Milan.  We  had  a  very  in- 
famous wretched  lodging. 

The  next  morning  we  mounted  again  through  strange, 
horrid,  and  fearful  crags  and  tracts,  abounding  in  pine 
trees,  and  only  inhabited  by  bears,  wolves,  and  wild 
goats;  nor  could  we  anywhere  see  above  a  pistol  shot  be- 
fore us,  the  horizon  being  terminated  with  rocks  and 
mountains,  whose  tops,  covered  with  snow,  seemed  to 
touch  the  skies,  and  in  many  places  pierced  the  clouds. 
Some  of  these  vast  mountains  were  but  one  entire  stone, 
between  whose  clefts  now  and  then  precipitated  great 
cataracts  of  melted  snow,  and  other  waters,  which  made 


1646  JOHN  EVELYN  289 

a  terrible  roaring,  echoing  from  the  rocks  and  cavities; 
and  these  waters  in  some  places  breaking  in  the  fall, 
wet  us  as  if  we  had  passed  through  a  mist,  so  as  we 
could  neither  see  nor  hear  one  another,  but,  trusting  to 
our  honest  mules,  we  jogged  on  our  way.  The  narrow 
bridges,  in  some  places  made  only  by  felling  huge  fir  trees, 
and  laying  them  athwart  from  mountain  to  mountain,  over 
cataracts  of  stupendous  depth,  are  very  dangerous,  and 
so  are  the  passages  and  edges  made  by  cutting  away  the 
main  rock;  others  in  steps;  and  in  some  places  we  pass 
between  mountains  that  have  been  broken  and  fallen  on 
one  another;  which  is  very  terrible,  and  one  had  need 
of  a  sure  foot  and  steady  head  to  climb  some  of  these 
precipices,  besides  that  they  are  harbors  for  bears  and 
wolves,  who  have  sometimes  assaulted  travelers.  In  these 
straits,  we  frequently  alighted,  now  freezing  in  the  snow, 
and  anon  frying  by  the  reverberation  of  the  sun  against 
the  cliffs  as  we  descend  lower,  when  we  meet  now  and 
then  a  few  miserable  cottages  so  built  upon  the  declining 
of  the  rocks,  as  one  would  expect  their  sliding  down. 
Among  these,  inhabit  a  goodly  sort  of  people,  having 
monstrous  gullets,  or  wens  of  flesh,  growing  to  their 
throats,  some  of  which  I  have  seen  as  big  as  an  hundred 
pound  bag  of  silver  hanging  under  their  chins;  among 
the  women  especially,  and  that  so  ponderous,  as  that  to 
ease  them,  many  wear  linen  cloth  bound  about  their 
head,  and  coming  under  the  chin  to  support  it;  but  quis 
tumidum  guttur  miratur  in  Alpibus?  Their  drinking  so 
much  snow  water  is  thought  to  be  the  cause  of  it;  the 
men  using  more  wine,  are  not  so  strumous  as  the  women. 
The  truth  is,  they  are  a  peculiar  race  of  people,  and 
many  great  water  drinkers  here  have  not  these  prodigious 
tumors;  it  runs,  as  we  say,  in  the  blood,  and  is  a  vice 
in  the  race,  and  renders  them  so  ugly,  shriveled  and  de- 
formed, by  its  drawing  the  skin  of  the  face  down,  that 
nothing  can  be  more  frightful;  to  this  add  a  strange 
puffing  dress,  furs,  and  that  barbarous  language,  being  a 
mixture  of  corrupt  High  German,  French,  and  Italian. 
The  people  are  of  great  stature,  extremely  fierce  and 
rude,  yet  very  honest  and  trusty. 

This  night,  through  almost  inaccessible  heights,  we 
came  in  prospect  of  Mons  Sempronius,  now  Mount  Sam- 
pion,  which  has  on  its  summit  a  few  huts  and  a  chapel. 


as©  DIARY   OF  MOUNT  SAMPION 

Approaching  this,  Captain  Wray's  water  spaniel  (a  huge 
filthy  cur  that  had  followed  him  out  of  England )  hunted . 
a  herd  of  goats  down  the  rocks  into  a  river  made  by  the 
melting  of  the  snow.  Arrived  at  our  cold  harbor  ( though 
the  house  had  a  stove  in  every  room)  and  supping  on 
cheese  and  milk  with  wretched  wine,  we  went  to  bed  in 
cupboards  so  high  from  the  floor,  that  we  climbed  them 
by  a  ladder;  we  were  covered  with  feathers,  that  is, 
we  lay  between  two  ticks  stuffed  with  them,  and  all  little 
enough  to  keep  one  warm.  The  ceilings  of  the  rooms 
are  strangely  low  for  those  tall  people.  The  house  was 
now  ( in  September )  half  covered  with  snow,  nor  is  there 
a  tree,  or  a  bush,  growing  within  many  miles. 

From  this  uncomfortable  place,  we  prepared  to  hasten 
away  the  next  morning;  but,  as  we  were  getting  on  our 
mules,  comes  a  huge  young  fellow  demanding  money  for 
a  goat  which  he  affirmed  that  Captain  Wray's  dog  had 
killed ;  expostulating  the  matter,  and  impatient  of  staying 
in  the  cold,  we  set  spurs  and  endeavored  to  ride  away, 
when  a  multitude  of  people  being  by  this  time  gotten 
together  about  us  (for  it  being  Sunday  morning  and  at- 
tending for  the  priest  to  say  mass),  they  stopped  our 
mules,  beat  us  off  our  saddles,  and,  disarming  us  of  our 
carbines,  drew  us  into  one  of  the  rooms  of  our  lodging, 
and  set  a  guard  upon  us.  Thus  we  continued  prisoners 
till  mass  was  ended,  and  then  came  half  a  score  grim 
Swiss,  who,  taking  on  them  to  be  magistrates,  sat  down 
on  the  table,  and  condemned  us  to  pay  a  pistole  for  the 
goat,  and  ten  more  for  attempting  to  ride  away,  threat- 
ening that  if  we  did  not  pay  it  speedily,  they  would  send 
us  to  prison,  and  keep  us  to  a  day  of  public  justice, 
where,  as  they  perhaps  would  have  exaggerated  the  crime, 
for  they  pretended  we  had  primed  our  carbines  and  would 
have  shot  some  of  them  ( as  indeed  the  Captain  was  about 
to  do  ),  we  might  have  had  our  heads  cut  off,  as  we  were 
told  afterward,  for  that  among  these  rude  people  a  very 
small  misdemeanor  does  often  meet  that  sentence. 
Though  the  proceedings  appeared  highly  unjust,  on  con- 
sultation among  ourselves  we  thought  it  safer  to  rid  our- 
selves out  of  their  hands,  and  the  trouble  we  were  brought 
into;  and  therefore  we  patiently  laid  down  the  money, 
and  with  fierce  countenances  had  our  mules  and  arms 
delivered  to  us,  and  glad  we  were  to  escape   as   we   did. 


1646  JOHN  EVELYN  231 

This  was  cold  entertainment,  but  our  journey  after  was 
colder,  the  rest  of  the  way  having  been  ( as  they  told  us) 
covered  with  snow  since  the  Creation;  no  man  remem- 
bered it  to  be  without;  and  because,  by  the  frequent 
snowing,  the  tracks  are  continually  filled  up,  we  passed  by 
several  tall  masts  set  up  to  guide  travelers,  so  as  for 
many  miles  they  stand  in  ken  of  one  another,  like  to  our 
beacons.  In  some  places,  where  there  is  a  cleft  between 
two  mountains,  the  snow  fills  it  up,  while  the  bottom, 
being  thawed,  leaves  as  it  were  a  frozen  arch  of  snow, 
and  that  so  hard  as  to  bear  the  greatest  weight;  for  as 
it  snows  often,  so  it  perpetually  freezes,  of  which  I  was 
so  sensible  that  it  flawed  the  very  skin  of  my  face. 

Beginning  now  to  descend  a  little.  Captain  Wray's 
horse  (that  was  our  sumpter  and  carried  all  our  baggage) 
plunging  through  a  bank  of  loose  snow,  slid  down  a  fright- 
ful precipice,  which  so  incensed  the  choleric  cavalier,  his 
master,  that  he  was  sending  a  brace  of  bullets  into  the 
poor  beast,  lest  our  guide  should  recover  him,  and  run 
away  with  his  burden ;  but,  just  as  he  was  lifting  up  his  car- 
bine, we  gave  such  a  shout,  and  so  pelted  the  horse  with 
snow-balls,  as  with  all  his  might  plunging  through  the 
snow,  he  fell  from  another  steep  place  into  another  bot- 
tom, near  a  path  we  were  to  pass.  It  was  yet  a  good 
while  ere  we  got  to  him,  but  at  last  we  recovered  the 
place,  and,  easing  him  of  his  charge,  hauled  him  out  of 
the  snow,  where  he  had  been  certainly  frozen  in,  if  we 
had  not  prevented  it,  before  night.  It  was  as  we  judged 
almost  two  miles  that  he  had  slid  and  fallen,  yet  with- 
out any  other  harm  than  the  benumbing  of  his  limbs  for 
the  present,  but,  with  lusty  rubbing  and  chafing  he  began 
to  move,  and,  after  a  little  walking,  performed  his  jour- 
ney well  enough.  All  this  way,  affrighted  with  the  dis- 
aster of  this  horse,  we  trudged  on  foot,  driving  our  mules 
before  us;  sometimes  we  fell,  sometimes  we  slid,  through 
this  ocean  of  snow,  which  after  October  is  impassible. 
Toward  night,  we  came  into  a  larger  way,  through  vast 
woods  of  pines,  which  clothe  the  middle  parts  of  these 
rocks.  Here,  they  were  burning  some  to  make  pitch  and 
rosin,  peeling  the  knotty  branches,  as  we  do  to  make 
charcoal,  reserving  what  melts  from  them,  which  hard- 
ens into  pitch.  We  passed  several  cascades  of  dissolved 
snow,  that  had  made  channels  of  formidable  depth  in  the 


23*  DIARY  OP  sioN 

crevices  of  the  mountains,  and  with  such  a  fearful  roaring 
as  we  could  hear  it  for  seven  long  miles.  It  is  from 
these  sources  that  the  Rhone  and  the  Rhine,  which  pass 
through  all  France  and  Germany,  derive  their  originals. 
Late  at  night,  we  get  to  a  town  called  Briga,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Alps,  in  the  Valteline.  Almost  every  door  had 
nailed  on  the  outside  and  next  the  street  a  bear's,  wolf's, 
or  fox's  head,  and  divers  of  them,  all  three;  a  savage 
kind  of  sight,  but,  as  the  Alps  are  full  of  the  beasts,  the 
people  often  kill  them.  The  next  morning,  we  returned 
to  our  guide,  and  took  fresh  mules,  and  another  to  con- 
duct us  to  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  passing  through  as  pleas- 
ant a  country  as  that. we  had  just  traveled  was  melancholy 
and  troublesome.  A  strange  and  sudden  change  it  seemed; 
for  the  reverberation  of  the  sunbeams  from  the  moun- 
tains and  rocks  that  like  walls  range  it  on  both  sides,  not 
above  two  flight-shots  in  breadth,  for  a  very  great  num- 
ber of  miles,  renders  the  passage  excessively  hot. 
Through  such  extremes  we  continued  our  journey,  that 
goodly  river,  the  Rhone,  gliding  by  us  in  a  narrow  and 
quiet  channel  almost  in  the  middle  of  this  Canton,  fer- 
tilizing the  country  for  grass  and  corn,  which  grow  here 
in  abundance. 

We  arrived  this  night  at  Sion,  a  pretty  town  and  city, 
a  bishop's  seat,  and  the  head  of  Valesia.  There  is  a 
castle,  and  the  bishop  who  resides  in  it,  has  both  civil 
and  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction.  Our  host,  as  the  custom 
of  these  Cantons  is,  was  one  of  the  chiefest  of  the  town, 
and  had  been  a  Colonel  in  France:  he  treated  us  with 
extreme  civility,  and  was  so  displeased  at  the  usage  we 
received  at  Mount  Sampion,  that  he  would  needs  give 
us  a  letter  to  the  Governor  of  the  country,  who  resided 
at  St.  Maurice,  which  was  in  our  way  to  Geneva,  to 
revenge  the  affront.  This  was  a  true  old  blade,  and  had 
been  a  very  curious  virtuoso,  as  we  found  by  a  hand- 
some collection  of  books,  medals,  pictures,  shells,  and 
other  antiquities.  He  showed  two  heads  and  horns  of 
the  true  Capricorn,  which  animal  he  told  us  was  fre- 
quently killed  among  the  mountains ;  one  branch  of  them 
was  as  much  as  I  could  well  lift,  and  near  as  high  as 
my  head,  not  much  unlike  the  greater  sort  of  goat's, 
save  that  they  bent  forward,  by  help  whereof  they  climb 
up    and    hang    on    inaccessible    rocks,    from   whence  the 


1646  JOHN  EVELYN  233 

inhabitants  now  and  then  shoot  them.  They  speak  pro- 
digious things  of  their  leaping  from  crag  to  crag,  and  of 
their  sure  footing,  notwithstanding  their  being  cloven- 
footed,  unapt  (one  would  think)  to  take  hold  and  walk 
so  steadily  on  those  horrible  ridges  as  they  do.  The 
Colonel  would  have  given  me  one  of  these  beams,  but  the 
want  of  a  convenience  to  carry  it  along  with  me,  caused  me 
to  refuse  his  courtesy.  He  told  me  that  in  the  castle 
there  were  some  Roman  and  Christian  antiquities,  and 
he  had  some  inscriptions  in  his  own  garden.  He  invited 
us  to  his  country-house,  where  he  said  he  had  better 
pictures,  and  other  rarities;  but,  our  time  being  short,  I 
could  not  persuade  my  companions  to  stay  and  visit  the 
places  he  would  have  had  us  see,  nor  the  offer  he  made 
to  show  us  the  hunting  of  the  bear,  wolf,  and  other 
wild  beasts.  The  next  morning,  having  presented  his 
daughter,  a  pretty  well-fashioned  young  woman,  with  a 
small  ruby  ring,  we  parted  somewhat  late  from  our 
l^enerous  host. 

Passing  through  the  same  pleasant  valley  between  the 
horrid  mountains  on  either  hand,  like  a  gallery  many 
miles  in  length,  we  got  to  Martigni,  where  also 
We  were  well  entertained.  The  houses  in  this  country 
are  all  built  of  fir  boards,  planed  within,  low,  and  seldom 
above  one  story.  The  people  very  clownish  and  rusticly 
clad,  after  a  very  odd  fashion,  for  the  most  part  in  blue 
cloth,  very  whole  and  warm,  with  little  variety  of  dis- 
tinction between  the  gentleman  and  common  sort,  by  a 
law  of  their  country  being  exceedingly  frugal.  Add  to 
this  their  great  honesty  and  fidelity,  though  exacting 
enough  for  what  they  part  with :  I  saw  not  one  beggar. 
We  paid  the  value  of  twenty  shillings  English,  for  a 
day's  hire  of  one  horse.  Every  man  goes  with  a  sword 
by  his  side,  the  whole  country  well  disciplined,  and 
indeed  impregnable,  which  made  the  Romans  have  such 
ill  success  against  them;  one  lusty  Swiss  at  their  nar- 
row passages  is  sufficient  to  repel  a  legion.  It  is  a 
frequent  thing  here  for  a  young  tradesman,  or  farmer, 
to  leave  his  wife  and  children  for  twelve  or  fifteen  years, 
and  seek  his  fortune  in  the  wars  in  Spain,  France, 
Italy,  or  Germany,  and  then  return  again  to  work.  I 
look  upon  this  country  to  be  the  safest  spot  of  all  Europe, 
neither  envied   nor   envying;    nor  are  any  of  them  rich, 


234  DIARY    OF  beveretta 

nor  poor;  they  live  in  great  simplicity  and  tranquillity; 
and,  though  of  the  fourteen  Cantons  half  be  Roman 
Catholics,  the  rest  reformed,  yet  they  mutually  agree, 
and  are  confederate  with  Geneva,  and  are  its  only 
security  against  its  potent  neighbors,  as  they  themselves 
are  from  being  attacked  by  the  greater  potentates,  by 
the  mutual  jealousy  of  their  neighbors,  as  either  of 
them  would  be  overbalanced,  should  the  Swiss,  who  are 
wholly  mercenary  and  auxiliaries,  be  subjected  to  France 
or  Spain. 

We  were  now  arrived  at  St.  Maurice,  a  large  handsome 
town  and  residence  of  the  President,  where  justice  is 
done.  To  him  we  presented  our  letter  from  Sion,  and 
made  known  the  ill  usage  we  had  received  for  killing  a 
wretched  goat,  which  so  incensed  him,  that  he  swore  if  we 
would  stay  he  would  not  only  help  us  to  recover  our 
money  again,  but  most  severely  punish  the  whole  rabble ; 
but  our  desire  of  revenge  had  by  this  time  subsided,  and 
glad  we  were  to  be  gotten  so  near  France,  which  we  reck- 
oned as  good  as  home.  He  courteously  invited  us  to  dine 
with  him;  but  we  excused  ourselves,  and,  returning  to 
our  inn,  while  we  were  eating  something  before  we  took 
horse,  the  Governor  had  caused  two  pages  to  bring  us  a 
present  of  two  great  vessels  of  covered  plate  full  of  ex- 
cellent wine,  in  which  we  drank  his  health,  and  rewarded 
the  youths;  they  were  two  vast  bowls  supported  by  two 
Swiss,  handsomely  wrought  after  the  German  manner. 
This  civility  and  that  of  our  host  at  Sion,  perfectly  recon- 
ciled us  to  the  highlanders;  and  so,  proceeding  on  our 
journey  we  passed  this  afternoon  through  the  gate  which 
divides  the  Valais  from  the  Duchy  of  Savoy,  into  which 
we  were  now  entering,  and  so,  through  Montei,  we  arrived 
that  evening  at  Beveretta.  Being  extremely  weary  and 
complaining  of  my  head,  and  finding  little  accommodation 
in  the  house,  I  caused  one  of  our  hostess's  daughters  to 
be  removed  out  of  her  bed  and  went  immediately  into  it 
while  it  was  yet  warm,  being  so  heavy  with  pain  and 
drowsiness  that  I  would  not  stay  to  have  the  sheets 
changed ;  but  I  shortly  after  paid  dearly  for  my  impatience, 
falling  sick  of  the  smallpox  as  soon  as  I  came  to  Geneva, 
for  by  the  smell  of  frankincense  and  the  tale  the  good 
woman  told  me  of  her  daughter  having  had  an  ague,  I 
afterward  concluded  she  had  been  newly  recovered  of  the 


1646  JOHN  EVELYN  235 

smallpox.  Notwithstanding  this,  I  went  with  my  com- 
pany, the  next  day,  hiring  a  bark  to  carry  us  over  the 
lake ;  and  indeed,  sick  as  I  was,  the  weather  was  so  serene 
and  bright,  the  water  so  calm,  and  air  so  temperate,  that 
never  had  travelers  a  sweeter  passage.  Thus,  we  sailed 
the  whole  length  of  the  lake,  about  thirty  miles,  the 
countries  bordering  on  it  (Savoy  and  Berne)  affording  one 
of  the  most  delightful  prospects  in  the  world,  the  Alps 
covered  with  snow,  though  at  a  great  distance,  yet  show- 
ing their  aspiring  tops.  Through  this  lake,  the  river 
Rhodanus  passes  with  that  velocity  as  not  to  mingle  with 
its  exceeding  deep  waters,  which  are  very  clear,  and  breed 
the  most  celebrated  trout  for  largeness  and  goodness  of 
any  in  Europe.  I  have  ordinarily  seen  one  of  three  feet 
in  length  sold  in  the  market  for  a  small  price,  and  such 
we  had  in  the  lodging  where  we  abode,  which  was  at  the 
White  Cross.  All  this  while,  I  held  up  tolerably;  and  the 
next  morning  having  a  letter  for  Signor  John  Diodati, 
the  famous  Italian  minister  and  translator  of  the  Holy 
Bible  into  that  language,  I  went  to  his  house,  and  had  a 
gfreat  deal  of  discourse  with  that  learned  person.  He  told 
me  he  had  been  in  England,  driven  by  tempest  into  Deal, 
while  sailing  for  Holland,  that  he  had  seen  London,  and 
was  exceedingly  taken  with  the  civilities  he  received.  He 
so  much  approved  of  our  Church-government  by  Bishops, 
that  he  told  me  the  French  Protestants  would  make  no 
scruple  to  submit  to  it  and  all  its  pomp,  had  they  a  king  of 
the  Reformed  religion  as  we  had.  He  exceedingly  deplored 
the  difference  now  between  his  Majesty  and  the  Parliament. 
After  dinner,  came  one  Monsieur  Saladine,  with  his  little 
pupil,  the  Earl  of  Caernarvon,  to  visit  us,  offering  to  carry 
us  to  the  principal  places  of  the  town ;  but,  being  now  no 
more  able  to  hold  up  my  head,  I  was  constrained  to  keep 
my  chamber,  imagining  that  my  very  eyes  would  have 
dropped  out;  and  this  night  I  felt  such  a  stinging  about 
me,  that  I  could  not  sleep.  In  the  morning,  I  was  very 
ill,  but  sending  for  a  doctor,  he  persuaded  me  to  be 
bled.  He  was  a  very  learned  old  man,  and,  as  he  said, 
he  had  been  physician  to  Gustavus  the  Great,  King  of 
Sweden,  when  he  passed  this  way  into  Italy,  under  the 
name  of  Monsieur  Gars,  the  initial  letters  of  Gustavus 
Adolphus  Rex  Sueciae,  and  of  our  famous  Duke  of  Buck- 
ingham,   on   his   returning  out   of   Italy.     He   afterward 


236  DIARY    OF  GENEVA 

acknowledged  that  he  should  not  have  bled  me,  had  he 
suspected  the  smallpox,  which  broke  out  a  day  after. 
He  afterward  purged  me,  and  applied  leeches,  and  God 
knows  what  this  would  have  produced,  if  the  spots  had 
not  appeared,  for  he  was  thinking  of  bleeding  me  again. 
They  now  kept  me  warm  in  bed  for  sixteen  days,  tended 
by  a  vigilant  Swiss  matron,  whose  monstrous  throat, 
when  I  sometimes  awakened  out  of  unquiet  slumbers,  would 
affright  me.  After  the  pimples  were  come  forth,  which 
were  not  many,  I  had  much  ease  as  to  pain,  but  infi- 
nitely afflicted  with  heat  and  noisomeness.  By  God's 
mercy,  after  five  weeks'  keeping  my  chamber,  I  went 
abroad.  Monsieur  Saladine  and  his  lady  sent  me  many  re- 
freshments. Monsieur  Le  Chat,  my  physician,  to  excuse 
his  letting  me  bleed,  told  me  it  was  so  burnt  and  vicious 
as  it  would  have  proved  the  plague,  or  spotted  fever,  had 
he  proceeded  by  any  other  method.  On  my  recovering 
sufficiently  to  go  abroad,  I  dined  at  Monsieur  Saladine 's, 
and  in  the  afternoon  went  across  the  water  on  the  side 
of  the  lake,  and  took  a  lodging  that  stood  exceedingly 
pleasant,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  city  for  the  better 
airing;  but  I  stayed  only  one  night,  having  no  company 
there,  save  my  pipe;  so,  the  next  day,  I  caused  them  to 
row  me  about  the  lake  as  far  as  the  great  stone,  which 
they  call  Neptune's  Rock,  on  which  they  say  sacrifice 
was  anciently  offered  to  him.  Thence,  I  landed  at  cer- 
tain cherry  gardens  and  pretty  villas  by  the  side  of  the 
lake,  and  exceedingly  pleasant.  Returning,  I  visited 
their  conservatories  of  fish;  in  which  were  trouts  of  six 
and  seven  feet  long,  as  they  affirmed. 

The  Rhone,  which  parts  the  city  in  the  midst  dips  into 
a  cavern  underground,  about  six  miles  from  it,  and  after- 
ward rises  again,  and  runs  its  open  course,  like  our  Mole, 
or  Swallow,  by  Dorking,  in  Surrey.  The  next  morning 
(being  Thursday)  I  heard  Dr.  Diodati  preach  in  Italian, 
many  of  that  country,  especially  of  Lucca,  his  native 
place,  being  inhabitants  of  Geneva,  and  of  the  Reformed 
religion. 

The  town  lying  between  Germany,  France,  and  Italy, 
those  three  tongues  are  familiarly  spoken  by  the  inhab- 
itants. It  is  a  strong,  well-fortified  city,  part  of  it  built 
on  a  rising  ground.  The  houses  are  not  despicable,  but 
the   high    pent-houses  (for  I  can   hardly  call  them  clois- 


1646  JOHN   EVELYN  237 

ters,  being  all  of  wood),  through  which  the  people  pass 
dry  and  in  the  shade,  winter  and  summer,  exceedingly 
deform  the  fronts  of  the  buildings.  Here  are  abundance 
of  booksellers;  but  their  books  are  of  ill  impressions; 
these,  with  watches  (of  which  store  are  made  here),  crys- 
tal, and  excellent  screwed  guns,  are  the  staple  commod- 
ities.    All  provisions  are  good  and  cheap. 

The  town-house  is  fairly  built  of  stone ;  the  portico  has 
four  black  marble  columns ;  and,  on  a  table  of  the  same, 
under  the  city  arms,  a  demi-eagle  and  cross,  between 
cross-keys,  is  a  motto,  "Post  Tenebras  Lux,"  and  this 
inscription : 

Quum  anno  ijjj  projligatd  Romand  Anti-Christi  Tyranntde, 
abrogatisq:  ejus  super stitionibus,  sacro-sancta  Christi  Religio  hie 
in  suatn  puritate7n,  Ecclesid  in  meliorem  ordinem  singulari  Dei 
beneficio  repositd,  et  simul  pulsis  fugatisq;  hostibus,  urbs  ipsa  in 
suam  libertatem,  non  sine  insigni  miraculo,  restituta  fuerit;  Sen- 
atus  Populusq ;  Genevensis  Monutnentum  hoc  perpetuce  memorice 
causd  fieri  atque  hoc  loco  erigi  curavii,  quod  suam  erga  Deunt 
gratitudinem  ad  posteros  testatum  fuerit. 

The  territories  about  the  town  are  not  so  large  as  many 
ordinary  gentlemen  have  about  their  country  farms,  for 
which  cause  they  are  in  continual  watch,  especially  on 
the  Savoy  side;  but,  in  case  of  any  siege  the  Swiss  are 
at  hand,  as  this  inscription  in  the  same  place  shows, 
toward  the  street: 

D.O.M.S. 

Anno  a  verd  Religiotte  divinitHs  cum  veteri Libertate  Genevas  reS' 
titutd,  et  quasi  novo  Jubilceo  ineunte,  plurimis  vitatis  domi  et 
forsi  insidiis  et  superatis  tempestatibus,  et  cum.  Helvetiorum.  Pri- 
mari  Tigurini  cequo  jure  in  societatem.  perpetuam  nobiscum.  ven- 
erint,  et  veteres  fidissimi  socii  Bernenses  prius  vinculum,  novo 
adstrinxerint,  S.P.Q.G.  quod  felix  esse  velit  D.O.M.  tanti,  ben- 
eficii monumentutn  consecrdrunt,  anno  temporis  ultimi  cco.io.xx^Vf. 

In  the  Senate-house,  were  fourteen  ancient  urns,  dug 
up  as  they  were  removing  earth  in  the  fortifications. 

A  little  out  of  the  town  is  a  spacious  field,  which  they 
call  Campus  Martins ;  and  well  it  may  be  so  termed,  with 
better  reason,  than  that  at  Rome  at  present  (which  is  no 
more  a  field,  but  all  built  into  streets),  for  here  on  every 
Sunday,  after  the  evening  devotions,  this  precise  people 
permit  their  youth  to  exercise  arms,  and  shoot  in  guns, 
and    in    the    long    and    cross    bows,  in  which    they   are 


238  DIARY    OF  GENEVA 

exceedingly  expert,  reputed  to  be  as  dexterous  as  any  peo- 
ple in  the  world.  To  encourage  this,  they  yearly  elect 
him  who  has  won  most  prizes  at  the  mark,  to  be  their 
king,  as  the  king  of  the  long-bow,  gun,  or  cross-bow. 
He  then  wears  that  weapon  in  his  hat  in  gold,  with  a 
crown  over  it  made  fast  to  the  hat  like  a  brooch.  In 
this  field,  is  a  long  house  wherein  their  arms  and  furni- 
ture are  kept  in  several  places  very  neatly.  To  this  joins 
a  hall,  where,  at  certain  times,  they  meet  and  feast;  in 
the  glass  windows  are  the  arms  and  names  of  their  kings 
[of  arms].  At  the  side  of  the  field,  is  a  very  noble  Pail- 
Mall,  but  it  turns  with  an  elbow.  There  is  also  a  bowling- 
place,  a  tavern,  and  a  trey-table,  and  here  they  ride 
their  menaged  horses.  It  is  also  the  usual  place  of 
public  execution  of  those  who  suffer  for  any  capital 
crime,  though  committed  in  another  country,  by  which  law 
divers  fugitives  have  been  put  to  death,  who  have  fled 
hither  to  escape  punishment  in  their  own  country. 
Among  other  severe  punishments  here,  adultery  is  death. 
Having  seen  this  field,  and  played  a  game  at  mall,  I 
supped   with    Mr.    Saladine. 

On  Sunday,  I  heard  Dr.  Diodati  preach  in  French, 
and  after  the  French  mode,  in  a  gown  with  a  cape,  and 
his  hat  on.  The  Church  Government  is  severely  Presby- 
terian, after  the  discipline  of  Calvin  and  Beza,  who  set 
it  up,  but  nothing  so  rigid  as  either  our  Scots  or  English 
sectaries  of  that  denomination.  In  the  afternoon,  Monsieur 
Morice,  a  most  learned  young  person  and  excellent  poet, 
chief  Professor  of  the  University,  preached  at  St.  Peter's, 
a  spacious  Gothic  fabric.  This  was  heretofore  a  cathedral 
and  a  reverend  pile.  It  has  four  turrets,  on  one  of 
which  stands  a  continual  sentinel;  in  another  cannons 
are  mounted.  The  church  is  very  decent  within;  nor 
have  they  at  all  defaced  the  painted  windows,  which  are 
full  of  pictures  of  saints;  nor  the  stalls,  which  are  all 
carved  with  the  history  of  our  Blessed  Savior. 

In  the  afternoon,  I  went  to  see  the  young  townsmen 
exercise  in  Mars'  Field,  where  the  prizes  were  pewter- 
plates  and  dishes;  'tis  said  that  some  have  gained  com- 
petent estates  by  what  they  have  thus  won.  Here  I 
first  saw  huge  ballistae,  or  cross-bows,  shot  in,  being  such 
as  they  formerly  used  in  wars,  before  great  guns  were 
known ;  they  were  placed  in  frames,  and  had  great  screws 


1646  JOHN  EVELYN  239 

to  bend  them,  doing  execution  at  an  incredible  distance. 
They  were  most  accurate  at  the  long-bow  and  musket, 
rarely  missing  the  smallest  mark.  I  was  as  busy  with 
the  carbine  I  brought  from  Brescia  as  any  of  them. 
After  every  shot,  I  found  them  go  into  a  long  house,  and 
cleanse  their  guns,  before  they  charged  again. 

On  Monday,  I  was  invited  to  a  little  garden  without 
the  works,  where  were  many  rare  tulips,  anemones,  and 
other  choice  flowers.  The  Rhone,  running  athwart  the 
town  out  of  the  Lake,  makes  half  the  city  a  suburb, 
which,  in  imitation  of  Paris,  they  call  St.  Germain's 
Fauxbourg,  and  it  has  a  church  of  the  same  name.  On 
two  wooden  bridges  that  cross  the  river  are  several 
water-mills,  and  shops  of  trades,  especially  smiths  and 
cutlers;  between  the  bridges  is  an  island,  in  the  midst 
of  which  is  a  very  ancient  tower,  said  to  have  been 
built  by  Julius  Caesar.  At  the  end  of  the  other  bridge 
is  the  mint,  and  a  fair  sun-dial. 

Passing  again  by  the  town-house,  I  saw  a  large  crocodile 
hanging  in  chains;  and  against  the  wall  of  one  of  the 
chambers,  seven  judges  were  painted  without  hands, 
except  one  in  the  middle,  who  has  but  one  hand;  I  know 
not  the  story.  The  Arsenal  is  at  the  end  of  this  build- 
ing, well  furnished  and  kept. 

After  dinner  Mr.  Morice  led  us  to  the  college,  a  fair 
structure ;  in  the  lower  part  are  the  schools,  which  consist 
of  nine  classes;  and  a  hall  above,  where  the  students 
assemble;  also  a  good  library.  They  showed  us  a  very 
ancient  Bible,  of  about  300  years  old,  in  the  vulgar  French, 
and  a  MS.  in  the  old  Monkish  character:  here  have  the 
Professors  their  lodgings.  I  also  went  to  the  Hospital, 
which  is  very  commodious ;  but  the  Bishop's  Palace  is  now 
a  prison.     * 

This  town  is  not  much  celebrated  for  beautiful  women, 
for,  even  at  this  distance  from  the  Alps,  the  gentlewomen 
have  somewhat  full  throats ;  but  our  Captain  Wray  (after- 
ward Sir  William,  eldest  son  of  that  Sir  Christopher,  who 
had  both  been  in  arms  against  his  Majesty  for  the  Parlia- 
ment) fell  so  mightily  in  love  with  one  of  Monsieur  Sala- 
dine's  daughters  that,  with  much  persuasion,  he  could  not 
be  prevailed  on  to  think  on  his  journey  into  France,  the 
season  now  coming  on  extremely  hot. 

My  sickness  and  abode  here  cost  me  forty-five  pistoles  of 


24©  DIARY    OF  ORLEANS 

gold  to  my  host,  and  five  to  my  honest  doctor,  who  for  six 
weeks'  attendance  and  the  apothecary  thought  it  so  gener- 
ous a  reward  that,  at  my  taking  leave,  he  presented  me 
with  his  advice  for  the  regimen  of  my  health,  written  with 
his  own  hand  in  Latin.  This  regimen  I  much  observed, 
and  I  bless  God  passed  the  journey  without  inconvenience 
from  sickness,  but  it  was  an  extraordinarily  hot  unpleas- 
ant season  and  journey,  by  reason  of  the  craggy  ways. 

5th  July,  1646.  We  took,  or  rather  purchased,  a  boat, 
for  it  could  not  be  brought  back  against  the  stream  of  the 
Rhone.  "We  were  two  days  going  to  Lyons,  passing  many 
admirable  prospects  of  rocks  and  cliffs,  and  near  the  town 
down  a  very  steep  declivity  of  water  for  a  full  mile.  From 
Lyons,  we  proceeded  the  next  morning,  taking  horse  to 
Roanne,  and  lay  that  night  at  Feurs.  At  Roanne  we 
indulged  ourselves  with  the  best  that  all  France  affords, 
for  here  the  provisions  are  choice  and  plentiful,  so  as  the 
supper  we  had  might  have  satisfied  a  prince.  We  lay  in 
damask  beds,  and  were  treated  like  emperors.  The  town 
is  one  of  the  neatest  built  in  all  France,  on  the  brink  of 
the  Loire ;  and  here  we  agreed  with  an  old  fisher  to  row 
us  as  far  as  Orleans.  The  first  night  we  came  as  far  as 
Nevers,  early  enough  to  see  the  town,  the  Cathedral  (St. 
Cyre),  the  Jesuits'  College,  and  the  Castle,  a  palace  of  the 
Duke's,  with  the  bridge  to  it  nobly  built. 

The  next  day  we  passed  by  La  Charit6,  a  pretty  town, 
somewhat  distant  from  the  river.  Here  I  lost  my  faithful 
spaniel  Piccioli,  who  had  followed  me  from  Rome.  It 
seems  he  had  been  taken  up  by  some  of  the  Governor's 
pages,  or  footmen,  without  recovery;  which  was  a  great 
displeasure  to  me,  because  the  cur  had  many  useful 
qualities. 

The  next  day  we  arrived  at  Orleans,  taking  our  turns 
to  row,  of  which  I  reckon  my  share  came  to  little  less 
than  twenty  leagues.  Sometimes,  we  footed  it  through 
pleasant  fields  and  meadows ;  sometimes,  we  shot  at  fowls, 
and  other  birds;  nothing  came  amiss:  sometimes,  we 
played  at  cards,  while  others  sung,  or  were  composing 
verses;  for  we  had  the  g^reat  poet,  Mr.  Waller,  in  our 
company,  and  some  other  ingenious  persons. 

At  Orleans  we  abode  but  one  day;  the  next,  leaving 
our  mad  Captain  behind  us,  I  arrived  at  Paris,  rejoiced 
that,  after  so   many  disasters  and   accidents  in  a  tedious 


1646-47  JOHN  EVELYN  241 

peregrination,  I  was  gotten  so  near  home,  and  here  I 
resolved  to  rest  myself  before  I  went  further. 

It  was  now  October,  and  the  only  time  that  in  my 
whole  life  that  I  spent  most  idly,  tempted  from  my  more 
profitable  recesses;  but  I  soon  recovered  my  better  reso- 
lutions and  fell  to  my  study,  learning  the  High  Dutch 
and  Spanish  tongues,  and  now  and  then  refreshing  my 
dancing,  and  such  exercises  as  I  had  long  omitted,  and 
which  are  not  in  much  reputation  among  the.  sober  Italians. 

28th  January,  1647.  I  changed  my  lodging  in  the  Place 
de  Monsieur  de  Metz,  near  the  Abbey  of  St.  Germains; 
and  thence,  on  the  12th  of  February,  to  another  in  Rue 
Columbier,  where  I  had  a  very  fair  apartment,  which 
cost  me  four  pistoles  per  month.  The  i8th,  I  frequented 
a  course  of  Chemistry,  the  famous  Monsieur  Le  Febure 
operating  upon  most  of  the  nobler  processes.  March  3d, 
Monsieur  Mercure  began  to  teach  me  on  the  lute,  though 
to  small  perfection. 

In  May,  I  fell  sick,  and  had  very  weak  eyes;  for  which 
I  was  four  times  let  bleed. 

2 2d  May,  1647,  My  valet  (Herbert)  robbed  me  of 
clothes  and  plate,  to  the  value  of  three  score  pounds; 
but,  through  the  diligence  of  Sir  Richard  Browne,  his 
Majesty's  Resident  at  the  Court  of  France,  and  with 
whose  lady  and  family  I  had  contracted  a  great  friend- 
ship (and  particularly  set  my  affections  on  a  daughter), 
I  recovered  most  of  them,  obtaining  of  the  Judge,  with 
no  small  difficulty,  that  the  process  against  the  thief 
should  not  concern  his  life,  being  his  first  offense, 

loth  June,  1647.  We  concluded  about  my  marriage,  in 
order  to  which  I  went  to  St.  Germains,  where  his  Maj- 
esty, then  Prince  of  Wales,  had  his  court,  to  desire  of 
Dr.  Earle,  then  one  of  his  chaplains  (since  Dean  of  West- 
minster, Clerk  of  the  Closet,  and  Bishop  of  Salisbury),  that 
he  would  accompany  me  to  Paris,  which  he  did;  and,  on 
Thursday,  27th  of  June,  1647,  he  married  us  in  Sir  Richard 
Browne's  chapel,  between  the  hours  of  eleven  and  twelve, 
some  few  select  friends  being  present.  And  this 
being  Corpus  Christi  feast,  was  solemnly  observed  in  this 
country;  the  streets  were  sumptuously  hung  with  tap- 
estry, and  strewed  with  flowers, 

loth  September,  1647.  Being  called  into  England,  to 
settle  my  affairs  after  an  absence  of  four  years,  I  took 
It 


242  DIARY    OP  WOTTON 

leave  of  the  Prince  and  Queen,  leaving  my  wife,  yet 
very  young,  under  the  care  of  an  excellent  lady  and 
prudent  mother, 

4th  October,  1647.  I  sealed  and  declared  my  will,  and 
that  morning  went  from  Paris,  taking  my  journey  through 
Rouen,  Dieppe,  Ville-dieu,  and  St.  Vallerie,  where  I 
stayed  one  day  with  Mr.  Waller,  with  whom  I  had  some 
affairs,  and  for  which  cause  I  took  this  circle  to  Calais, 
where  I  arrived  on  the  nth,  and  that  night  embarking 
in  a  packet  boat,  was  by  one  o'clock  got  safe  to  Dover; 
for  which  I  heartily  put  up  my  thanks  to  God  who  had 
conducted  me  safe  to  my  own  country,  and  been  merci- 
ful to  me  through  so  many  aberrations.  Hence,  taking 
post,  I  arrived  at  London  the  next  day  at  evening,  be- 
ing the  2d  of  October,  new  style. 

5th  October,  1647.  I  came  to  Wotton,  the  place  of  my 
birth,  to  my  brother,  and  on  the  10th  to  Hampton  Court 
where  I  had  the  honor  to  kiss  his  Majesty's  hand,  and 
give  him  an  account  of  several  things  I  had  in  charge, 
he  being  now  in  the  power  of  those  execrable  villains 
who  not  long'  after  murdered  him.  I  lay  at  my 
cousin,  Sergeant  Hatton's  at  Thames  Ditton,  whence,  on 
the  13th,  I  went  to  London. 

14th  October,  1647.  To  Sayes  Court,  at  Deptford,  in 
Kent  (since  my  house),  where  I  found  Mr.  Pretyman, 
my  wife's  uncle,  who  had  charge  of  it  and  the  estate 
about  it,  during  my  father-in-law's  residence  in  France. 
On  the  15th,  I  again  occupied  my  own  chambers  in  the 
Middle  Temple. 

9th  November,  1647.  My  sister  opened  to  me  her 
marriage  with  Mr.   Glanville. 

14th  January,  1647-48.  From  London  I  went  to  Wotton 
to  see  my  young  nephew;  and  thence  to  Baynards  [in 
Ewhurst],  to  visit  my  brother  Richard. 

5th  February,  1648.  Saw  a  tragi-comedy  acted  in  the 
cockpit,  after  there  had  been  none  of  these  diversions 
for  many  years  during  the   war. 

28th  February,  1648.  I  went  with  my  noble  friend. 
Sir  William  Ducy  (afterward  Lord  Downe),  to  Thistle- 
worth,  where  we  dined  with  Sir  Clepesby  Crew,  and 
afterward  to  see  the  rare  miniatures  of  Peter  Oliver,  and 
rounds  of  plaster,  and  then  the  curious  flowers  of  Mr. 
Barill's  garden,  who  has  some  good  medals  and  pictures. 


1647-48  JOHN  EVELYN  243 

Sir  Clepesby  has  fine  Indian  hangings,  and  a  very  good 
chimney-piece  of  water  colors,  by  Breughel,  which  I 
bought  for  him. 

26th  April,  1648.  There  was  a  great  uproar  in  London, 
that  the  rebel  army  quartering  at  Whitehall,  would  plun- 
der the  City,  on  which  there  was  published  a  Proclama- 
tion for  all  to  stand  on  their  guard. 

4th  May,  1648.  Came  up  the  Essex  petitioners  for  an 
agreement  between  his  Majesty  and  the  rebels.  The  i6th, 
the  Surrey  men  addressed  the  Parliament  for  the  same; 
of  which  some  of  them  were  slain  and  murdered  by 
Cromwell's  guards,  in  the  new  palace  yard.  I  now  sold 
the  impropriation  of  South  Mailing,  near  Lewes,  in  Sus- 
sex, to  Messrs.   Kemp  and  Alcock,  for  ;^3,ooo. 

30th  May,  1648.  There  was  a  rising  now  in  Kent,  my 
Lord  of  Norwich  being  at  the  head  of  them.  Their  iirst 
rendezvous  was  in  Broome-field,  next  my  house  at  Sayes 
Court,  whence  they  went  to  Maidstone,  and  so  to  Col- 
chester, where  was  that  memorable  siege. 

27th  June,  1648.  I  purchased  the  manor  of  Hurcott, 
in  Worcestershire,  of  my  brother  George,  for  ^^3,300. 

ist  July,  1648.  I  sate  for  my  picture,  in  which  there 
is  a  Death's  head,  to  Mr.  Walker,  that  excellent  painter. 

loth  July,  1648.  News  was  brought  me  of  my  Lord 
Francis  Villiers  being  slain  by  the  rebels  near  Kingston. 

i6th  August  1648.  I  went  to  Woodcote  (in  Epsom)  to 
the  wedding  of  my  brother,  Richard,  who  married  the 
daughter  and  coheir  of  Esquire  Minn,  lately  deceased; 
by  which  he  had  a  great  estate  both  in  land  and  money 
on  the  death  of  a  brother.  The  coach  in  which  the  bride 
and  bridegroom  were,  was  overturned  in  coming  home; 
but  no  harm  was  done. 

28th  August,  1648.  To  London  from  Sayes  Court,  and 
saw  the  celebrated  follies  of  Bartholomew  Fair. 

1 6th  September,  1648.  Came  my  lately  married  brother, 
Richard,  and  his  wife,  to  visit  me,  when  I  showed  them 
Greenwich,  and  her  Majesty's  Palace,  now  possessed  by 
the  rebels. 

28th  September,  1648.  I  went  to  Albury,  to  visit  the 
Countess  of  Arundel,  and  returned  to  Wotton. 

31st  October,  1648.  I  went  to  see  my  manor  of  Pres- 
ton Beckhelvyn,  and  the  Cliffhouse. 

29th  November,  1648.    Myself,  with  Mr.  Thomas  Offley, 


244  DIARY   OF  LONDON 

and  Lady  Gerrard,  christened  my  niece  Mary,  eldest 
daughter  of  my  brother,  George  Evelyn,  by  my  Lady 
Cotton,  his  second  wife.  I  presented  my  niece  a  piece 
of  plate  which  cost  me  ;!^i8,  and  caused  this  inscription 
to  be  set  on  it- 

In  memo  ri am  facti: 
Anno  cic  Ix.  XLiix.    Cal.Decem.viii.    Virginum  castiss:   Xtianorum 

INNOCENTISS:    NePT:     sua  vis:     MARIiE.  JOHAN.    EVELYNUS   AVUNCULUS   ET 

SuscEPTOR  Vasculum  HOC  CUM  Epigraphe  L.  M.   Q.  D. 
Ave  Maria  Gratia  sis  plena;  Dominus  tecum. 

ad  December,  1648.  This  day  I  sold  my  manor  oi 
Hurcott  for  ^3,400  to  one  Mr.  Bridges. 

13th  December,  1648.  The  Parliament  now  sat  up  the 
whole  night,  and  endeavored  to  have  concluded  the  Isle 
of  Wight  Treaty ;  but  were  surprised  by  the  rebel  army ; 
the  members  dispersed,  and  great  confusion  every  where 
in  expectation  of  what  would  be  next. 

17th  December,  1648.  I  heard  an  Italian  sermon,  in 
Mercers'  Chapel,  one  Dr.  Middleton,  an  acquaintance  of 
mine,  preaching. 

1 8th  December,  1648.  I  got  privately  into  the  council 
of  the  rebel  army,  at  Whitehall,  where  I  heard  horrid 
villanies. 

This  was  a  most  exceedingly  wet  year,  neither  frost  nor 
snow  all  the  winter  for  more  than  six  days  in  all.  Cat« 
tie  died  every  where  of  a  murrain. 

ist  January,  1648-49.  I  had  a  lodging  and  some  books 
at  my  father-in-law's  house,  Sayes  Court. 

2d  January,  1649.  I  went  to  see  my  old  friend  and 
fellow-traveler,  Mr.  Henshaw,  who  had  two  rare  pieces 
of  Stenwyck's  perspective. 

17th  January,  1649.  To  London.  I  heard  the  rebel, 
Peters,  incite  the  rebel  powers  met  in  the  Painted  Cham- 
ber, to  destroy  his  Majesty;  and  saw  that  archtraitor, 
Bradshaw,  who  not  long  after  condemned  him. 

19th  January,  1649.  ^  returned  home,  passing  an  ex- 
traordinary danger  of  being  drowned  by  our  wherries 
falling  foul  in  the  night  on  another  vessel  then  at  anchor, 
shooting  the  bridge  at  three  quarters'  ebb,  for  which 
His  mercy  God  Almighty  be  praised. 

2ist  January,  1649.  Was  published  my  translation  of 
Liberty  and  Servitude,  for  the  preface  of  which  I  was 
severely  threatened. 


1648-49  JOHN  EVELYN  245 

2 2d  January,  1649.  I  went  through  a  course  of  chem- 
istry, at  Sayes  Court.  Now  was  the  Thames  frozen  over, 
and  horrid  tempests  of  wind. 

The  villany  of  the  rebels  proceeding  now  so  far  as  to 
try,  condemn,  and  murder  our  excellent  King  on  the 
30th  of  this  month,  struck  me  with  such  horror,  that  I 
kept  the  day  of  his  martyrdom  a  fast,  and  would  not  be 
present  at  that  execrable  wickedness;  receiving  the  sad 
account  of  it  from  my  brother  George,  and  Mr.  Owen, 
who  came  to  visit  me  this  afternoon,  and  recounted  all 
the  circumstances. 

ist  February,  1649.  Now  were  Duke  Hamilton,  the 
Earl  of  Norwich,  Lord  Capell,  etc.,  at  their  trial  before 
the  rebels'  New  Court  of  Injustice. 

15th  February,  1649.  I  went  to  see  the  collection  of 
one  Trean,  a  rich  merchant,  who  had  some  good  pictures, 
especially  a  rare  perspective  of  Stenwyck ;  from  thence, 
to  other  virtuosos. 

The  painter.  La  Neve  has  an  Andromeda,  but  I  think 
it  a  copy  after  Vandyke  from  Titian,  for  the  original  is 
in  France.  Webb,  at  the  Exchange,  has  some  rare  things 
in  miniature,  of  Breughel's,  also  Putti,  in  twelve  squares, 
that  were  plundered  from  Sir  James  Palmer. 

At  Du  Bois,  we  saw  two  tables  of  Putti,  that  were 
gotten,  I  know  not  how,  out  of  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo, 
by  old  Petit,  thought  to  be  Titian's;  he  had  some  good 
heads  of  Palma,  and  one  of  Stenwyck.  Bellcar  showed 
us  an  excellent  copy  of  his  Majesty's  Sleeping  Venus  and 
the  Satyr,  with  other  figures;  for  now  they  had  plun- 
dered, sold,  and  dispersed  a  world  of  rare  paintings  of 
the  King's,  and  his  loyal  subjects.  After  all.  Sir  William 
Ducy  showed  me  some  excellent  things  in  miniature,  and 
in  oil  of  Holbein's;  Sir  Thomas  More's  head,  and  a  whole- 
length  figure  of  Edward  VI.,  which  were  certainly  his 
Majesty's;  also  a  picture  of  Queen  Elizabeth;  the  Lady 
Isabella  Thynne;  a  rare  painting  of  Rothenhamer,  being 
a  Susanna;  and  a  Magdalen,  of  Quintin,  the  blacksmith; 
also  a  Henry  VIII.,  of  Holbein;  and  Francis  I.,  rare 
indeed,  but  of  whose  hand  I  know  not. 

1 6th  February,  1649.  Paris  being  now  strictly  besieged 
by  the  Prince  de  Cond^,  my  wife  being  shut  up  with  her 
father  and  mother,  I  wrote  a  letter  of  consolation  to  her: 
and,  on  the  2  2d,  having  recommended   Obadiah   Walker, 


246  DIARY  OF  LONDON 

a  learned  and  most  ingenious  person,  to  be  tutor  to,  and 
travel  with,  Mr.  Hillyard's  two  sons,  returned  to  Sayes 
Court. 

25th  February,  1649.  Came  to  visit  me  Dr.  Joyliffe, 
discoverer  of  the  lymphatic  vessels,  and  an  excellent  anat- 
omist. 

26th  February,  1649,  Came  to  see  me  Captain  George 
Evelyn,  my  kinsman,  the  great  traveler,  and  one  who 
believed  himself  a  better  architect  than  really  he  was; 
witness  the  portico  in  the  Garden  at  Wotton;  yet  the 
great  room  at  Albury  is  somewhat  better  understood. 
He  had  a  large  mind,  but  over-built  everything. 

27th  February,  1649.  Came  out  of  France  my  wife's 
uncle  ( Paris  still  besieged ),  being  robbed  at  sea  by  the 
Dunkirk  pirates:  I  lost,  among  other  goods,  my  wife's 
picture,  painted  by  Monsieur  Bourdon. 

5th  March,  1649.  Now  were  the  Lords  murdered  in 
the  Palace  Yard. 

i8th  March,  1649.  Mr.  Owen,  a  sequestered  and  learned 
minister,  preached  in  my  parlor,  and  gave  us  the  blessed 
Sacrament,  now  wholly  out  of  use  in  the  parish  churches, 
on  which  the  Presbyterians  and  fanatics  had  usurped. 

2ist  March,  1649.  I  received  letters  from  Paris  from 
my  wife,  and  from  Sir  Richard  [Browne],  with  whom  I 
kept  up  a  political  correspondence,  with  no  small  danger 
of  being  discovered. 

25th  March,  1649.  I  heard  the  Common  Prayer  (a 
rare  thing  in  these  days )  in  St.  Peter's,  at  Paul's  Wharf, 
London ;  and,  in  the  morning,  the  Archbishop  of  Armagh, 
that  pious  person  and  learned  man.  Usher,  in  Lincoln's- 
Inn  Chapel. 

2d  April,  1649.  To  London,  and  inventoried  my 
movables  that  had  hitherto  been  dispersed  for  fear  of 
plundering:  wrote  into  France,  touching  my  sudden 
resolutions  of  coming  over  to  them.  On  the  8th,  again 
heard  an  excellent  discourse  from  Archbishop  Usher,  on 
Ephes.  4,  V.  26-27. 

My  Italian  collection  being  now  arrived,  came  Moulins, 
the  great  chinirgeon,  to  see  and  admire  the  Tables  of 
Veins  and  Arteries,  which  I  purchased  and  caused  to  be 
drawn  out  of  several  human  bodies  at  Padua. 

nth  April,  1649.  Received  news  out  of  France  that 
peace  was  concluded;  dined  with  Sir   Joseph   Evelyn,    at 


1649  JOHN  EVELYN  247 

Westminster;  and  on  the  13th  I  saw  a  private  dissection 
at  Moulins's  house. 

17th  April,  1649.  I  fell  dangerously  ill  of  my  head; 
was  blistered  and  let  bleed  behind  the  ears  and  forehead : 
on  the  23d,  began  to  have  ease  by  using  the  fumes  of 
camomile  on  embers  applied  to  my  ears,  after  all  the 
physicians  had  done  their  best, 

29th  April,  1649.  I  saw  in  London  a  huge  ox  bred  in 
Kent,  17  feet  in  length,  and  much  higher  than  I  could 
reach. 

12th  May,  1649.  I  purchased  the  manor  of  Warley 
Magna,  in  Essex:  in  the  afternoon  went  to  see  Gildron's 
collections  of  paintings,  where  I  found  Mr.  Endymion 
Porter,  of  his  late  Majesty's  bedchamber. 

17th  May,  1649.  Went  to  Putney  by  water,  in  the 
barge  with  divers  ladies,  to  see  the  schools,  or  colleges, 
of  the  young  gentlewomen. 

19th  May,  1649.  To  see  a  rare  cabinet  of  one  Dela- 
barr,  who  had  some  good  paintings,  especially  a  monk 
at  his  beads. 

30th  May,  1649.  Unkingship  was  proclaimed,  and  his 
Majesty's  statues  thrown  down  at  St.  Paul's  Portico,  and 
the  Exchange. 

7th  June,  1649.  I  visited  Sir  Arthur  Hopton  *  (brother 
to  Sir  Ralph,  Lord  Hopton,  that  noble  hero),  who  having 
been  Ambassador  extraordinary  in  Spain,  sojourned  some 
time  with  my  father-in-law  at  Paris,  a  most  excellent  person. 
Also  Signora  Lucretia,  a  Greek  lady,  whom  I  knew  in 
Italy,  now  come  over  with  her  husband,  an  English 
gentleman.  Also,  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Arundel, 
taking  leave  of  them  and  other  friends  now  ready  to  de- 
part for  France.  This  night  was  a  scuffle  between  some 
rebel  soldiers  and  gentlemen  about  the   Temple. 

June  loth,  1649.  Preached  the  Archbishop  of  Armagh 
in  Lincoln's-Inn,  from  Romans  5,  verse  13.  I  received 
the  blessed  Sacrament,  preparatory  to  my  journey. 

13th  June,  1649.  I  dined  with  my  worthy  friend,  Sir 
John  Owen,  newly  freed  from  sentence  of  death  among 
the  lords  that  suffered.  With  him  was  one  Carew,  who 
played  incomparably  on  the  Welsh  harp,  afterward  I 
treated  divers  ladies  of  my  relations,  in   Spring   Garden. 

*  Sir  Arthur  Hopton  was  uncle,  not  brother  to  Lord  Hopton  (so 
well  known  for  his  services  to  Charles  in  the  course  of  the  Civil  War). 


24*  DIARY    OF  GRAVESEND 

This  night  was  buried  with  great  pomp,  Dorislaus,  slain 
at  the  Hague,  the  villain  who  managed  the  trial  against 
his  sacred  Majesty. 

17th  June,  1649.  I  got  a  pass  from  the  rebel  Brad- 
shaw,  then  in  great  power. 

20th  June,  1649.  I  went  to  Putney,  and  other  places 
on  the  Thames,  to  take  prospects  in  crayon,  to  carry  into 
France,  where  I  thought  to  have  them  engraved. 

2d  July,  1649.  I  went  from  Wotton  to  Godstone  (the 
residence  of  Sir  John  Evelyn),  where  was  also  Sir  John 
Evelyn  of  Wilts.,  when  I  took  leave  of  both  Sir  Johns 
and  their  ladies.  Mem.  the  prodigious  memory  of  Sir 
John  of  Wilts'  daughter,  since  married  to  Mr.  W.  Pierre- 
pont,  and  mother  of  the  present  Earl  of  Kingston.  I 
returned  to  Sayes  Court  this  night. 

4th  July,  1649.  Visited  Lady  Hatton,  her  lord  sojourn- 
ing at  Paris  with  my  father-in-law. 

9th  July,  1649.  Dined  with  Sir  Walter  Pye,  and  my 
good  friend,  Mr.  Eaton,  afterward  a  judge,  who  corre- 
sponded with  me  in  France. 

nth  July,  1649.  Came  to  see  me  old  Alexander  Rosse, 
the  divine  historian  and  poet;  Mr.  Henshaw,  Mr.  Scud- 
amore,  and  other  friends  to  take  leave  of  me. 

12th  July,  1649.  It  was  about  three  in  the  afternoon, 
I  took  oars  for  Gravesend,  accompanied  by  my  cousin, 
Stephens,  and  sister,  Glanville,  who  there  supped  with 
me  and  returned;  whence  I  took  post  immediately  to 
Dover,  where  I  arrived  by  nine  in  the  morning;  and, 
about  eleven  that  night,  went  on  board  a  barque  guarded 
by  a  pinnace  of  eight  guns;  this  being  the  first  time  the 
Packet-boat  had  obtained  a  convoy,  having  several  times 
before  been  pillaged.  We  had  a  good  passage,  though 
chased  for  some  hours  by  a  pirate,  but  he  dared  not 
attack  our  frigate,  and  we  then  chased  him  till  he  got 
under  the  protection  of  the  castle  at  Calais.  It  was  a 
small  privateer  belonging  to  the  Prince  of  Wales.  I 
carried  over  with  me  my  servant,  Richard  Hoare,  an 
incomparable  writer  of  several  hands,  whom  I  afterward 
preferred  in  the  Prerogative  Office,  at  the  return  of  his 
Majesty,  Lady  Catherine  Scott,  daughter  of  the  Earl  of 
Norwich,  followed  us  in  a  shallop,  with  Mr.  Arthur 
Slingsby,  who  left  England  incognito.  At  the  entrance 
of  the  town,  the  Lieutenant  Governor,  being  on  his  hor^e 


i649  JOHN   EVELYN  249 

with  the  guards,  let  us  pass  courteously.  I  visited  Sir 
Richard  Lloyd,  an  English  gentleman,  and  walked  in  the 
church,  where  the  ornament  about  the  high  altar  of  black 
marble  is  very  fine,  and  there  is  a  good  picture  of  the 
Assumption,  The  citadel  seems  to  be  impregnable,  and 
the  whole  country  about  it  to  be  laid  under  water  by 
sluices  for  many  miles. 

1 6th  July,  1649.  We  departed  from  Paris,  in  company 
with  that  very  pleasant  lady.  Lady  Catherine  Scott,  and 
others.  In  all  this  journey  we  were  greatly  apprehensive 
of  parties,  which  caused  us  to  alight  often  out  of  our 
coach  and  walk  separately  on  foot,  with  our  guns  on  our 
shoulders,  in  all  suspected  places. 

ist  August,  1649.  At  three  in  the  afternoon  we  came 
to  St.  Denis,  saw  the  rarities  of  the  church  and  treasury; 
and  so  to  Paris  that  evening. 

The  next  day,  came  to  welcome  me  at  dinner  the  Lord 
High  Treasurer  Cottington,  Sir  Edward  Hyde,  Chancel- 
lor, Sir  Edward  Nicholas,  Secretary  of  State,  Sir  George 
Carteret,  Governor  of  Jersey,  and  Dr.  Earle,  having  now 
been  absent  from  my  wife  above  a  year  and  a  half. 

1 8th  August,  1649.  I  went  to  St.  Germains,  to  kiss  his 
Majesty's  hand;  in  the  coach,  which  was  my  Lord  Wil- 
mot's,  went  Mrs.  Barlow,  the  King's  mistress*  and  mother 
to  the  Duke  of  Monmouth,  a  brown,  beautiful,  bold,  but 
insipid  creature. 

19th  August,  1649.  I  went  to  salute  the  French  King 
and  the  Queen  Dowager;  and,  on  the  21st,  returned  in 
one  of  the  Queen's  coaches  with  my  Lord  Germain,  Duke 
of  Buckingham,  Lord  Wentworth,  and  Mr.  Croftes,  since 
Lord   Croftes. 

7th  September,  1649.  Went  with  my  wife  and  dear 
Cousin  to  St.  Germains,  and  kissed  the  Queen-Mother's 
hand ;  dined  with  my  Lord  Keeper  and  Lord  Hatton.  Divers 
of  the  great  men  of  France  came  to  see  the  King.  The 
next  day,  came  the  Prince  of  Cond6.  Returning  to  Paris, 
we  went  to  see  the  President  Maison's  palace,  built  cas- 

*  The  lady  here  referred  to  was  Lucy,  daughter  of  Richard  "Walters, 
Esq..  of  Haverfordwest.  She  had  two  children  by  the  King;  James, 
subsequently  so  celebrated  as  the  Duke  of  Monmouth,  and  Mary,  whose 
lot  was  obscure  in  comparison  with  that  of  her  brother,  but  of  course 
infinitely  happier.  She  married  a  Mr.  William  Sarsfield,  of  Ireland, 
and  after  his  death.  William  Fanshawe,  Esq, 


250  DIARY  OF  »aw» 

tie-wise,  of  a  milk-white  fine  freestone;  tlie  house  not 
vast,  but  well  contrived,  especially  the  staircase,  and  the 
ornaments  of  Putti,  about  it.  It  is  environed  in  a  dry 
moat,  the  offices  under  ground,  the  gardens  very  excel- 
lent with  extraordinary  long  walks,  set  with  elms,  and  a 
noble  prospect  toward  the  forest,  and  on  the  Seine  to- 
ward Paris.  Take  it  altogether,  the  meadows,  walks, 
river,  forest,  corn-ground,  and  vineyards,  I  hardly  saw 
anything  in  Italy  to  exceed  it.  The  iron  gates  are  very 
magnificent.  He  has  pulled  down  a  whole  village  to 
make  room  for  his  pleasure  about  it. 

1 2th  September,  1649.  Dr.  Crighton,  a  Scotchman,  and 
one  of  his  Majesty's  chaplains,  a  learned  Grecian  who  set 
out  the  Council  of  Florence,  preached. 

13th  September,  1649.  The  King  invited  the  Prince 
of  Cond6  to  supper  at  St.  Cloud ;  there  I  kissed  the  Duke 
of  York's  hand  in  the  tennis  court,  where  I  saw  a  famous 
match  between  Monsieur  Saumeurs  and  Colonel  Cooke, 
and  so  returned  to  Paris.  It  was  noised  about  that  I 
was  knighted,  a  dignity  I  often  declined. 

ist  October,  1649.  Went  with  my  cousin  Tuke  (after- 
ward Sir  Samuel),  to  see  the  fountains  of  St.  Cloud  and 
Ruel;  and,  after  dinner,  to  talk  with  the  poor  ignorant 
and  superstitious  anchorite  at  Mount  Calvary,  and  so  to 
Paris. 

2d  October,  1649.  Came  Mr.  William  Coventry  (after- 
ward Sir  William)  and  the  Duke's  secretary,  etc.,  to  visit 
me. 

5th  October,  1649.  Dined  with  Sir  George  Ratcliffe, 
the  great  favorite  of  the  late  Earl  of  Strafford,  formerly 
Lord  Deputy  of  Ireland,  decapitated. 

7th  October,  1649.  To  the  Louvre,  to  visit  the  Countess 
of  Moreton,  governess  to  Madame. 

15th  October,  1649.  Came  news  of  Drogheda  being 
taken  by  the  rebels,  and  all  put  to  the  sword,  which 
made  us  A'-ery  sad,  forerunning  the  loss  of  all  Ireland. 

2 1  St  October,  1649.  I  went  to  hear  Dr.  d'Avinson's 
lecture  in  the  physical  garden,  and  see  his  laboratory, 
he  being  Prefect  of  that  excellent  garden,  and  Professor 
Botanicus. 

30th  October,  1649.  I  was  at  the  funeral  of  one  Mr. 
Downes,  a  sober  English  gentleman.  We  accompanied 
his    corpse   to   Charenton,   where   he   was  interred  in  a 


i649  JOHN  EVELYN  251 

cabbage-garden,  yet  with  the  office  of  our  church,  which 
was  said  before  in  our  chapel  at  Paris.  Here  I  saw  also 
where  they  buried  the  great  soldier,  Gassion,  who  had  a 
tomb  built  over  him  like  a  fountain,  the  design  and  ma- 
terials mean  enough.  I  returned  to  Paris  with  Sir  Philip 
Musgrave,  and  Sir  Marmaduke  Langdale,  since  Lord 
Langdale  —  Memorandum.  This  was  a  very  sickly  and 
mortal  autumn. 

5th  November,  1649.  I  received  divers  letters  out  of 
England,  requiring  me  to  come  over  about  settling  some 
of  my  concerns. 

7th  November,  1649.  Dr.  George  Morley  (since  Bishop 
of  Winchester)  preached  in  our  chapel  on  Matthew  4, 
verse  3. 

1 8th  November,  1649,  I  went  with  my  father-in-law  to 
see  his  audience  at  the  French  Court,  where  next  the 
Pope's  Nuncio,  he  was  introduced  by  the  master  of  cere- 
monies, and,  after  delivery  of  his  credentials,  as  from  our 
King,  since  his  father  s  murder,  he  was  most  graciously 
received  by  the  King  of  France  and  his  mother,  with 
whom  he  had  a  long  audience.  This  was  in  the  Palais 
Cardinal. 

After  this,  being  presented  to  his  Majesty  and  the 
Queen  Regent  I  went  to  see  the  house  built  by  the  late 
great  Cardinal  de  Richelieu.  The  most  observable  thing 
is  the  gallery,  painted  with  the  portraits  of  the  most 
illustrious  persons  and  single  actions  in  France,  with  in- 
numerable emblems  between  every  table.  In  the  middle 
of  the  gallery,  is  a  neat  chapel,  rarely  paved  in  work 
and  devices  of  several  sorts  of  marble,  besides  the  altar- 
piece  and  two  statues  of  white  marble,  one  of  St.  John, 
the  other  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  by  Bernini.  The  rest  of 
the  apartments  are  rarely  gilded  and  carved,  with  some 
good  modem  paintings.  In  the  presence  hang  three 
huge  branches  of  crystal.  In  the  French  King's  bed- 
chamber, is  an  alcove  like  another  chamber,  set  as  it 
were  in  a  chamber  like  a  movable  box,  with  a  rich 
embroidered  bed.  The  fabric  of  the  palace  is  not  mag- 
nificent, being  but  of  two  stories;  but  the  garden  is  so 
spacious  as  to  contain  a  noble  basin  and  fountain  con- 
tinually playing,  and  there  is  a  mall,  with  an  elbow,  or 
turning,  to  protract  it.  So  I  left  his  Majesty  on  the 
terrace,    busy    in    seeing    a    bull-baiting,    and    returned 


253  DIARY   OF  PARIS 

home  in  Prince  Edward's  coach  with  Mr.  Paul,  the  Prince 
Elector's  agent. 

19th  November,  1649.  Visited  Mr.  Waller,  where  meet- 
ing Dr.  Holden,  an  English  Sorbonne  divine,  we  fell  into 
some  discourse  about  religion. 

28th  December,  1649.  Going  to  wait  on  Mr.  Waller, 
I  viewed  St.  Stephen's  church;  the  building,  though 
Gothic,  is  full  of  carving;  within  it  is  beautiful,  espe- 
cially the  choir  and  winding  stairs.  The  glass  is  well 
painted,  and  the  tapestry  hung  up  this  day  about  the 
choir,  representing  the  conversion  of  Constantine,  was 
exceedingly  rich. 

I  went  to  that  excellent  eng^raver,  Du  Bosse,  for  his 
instruction  about  some  difficulties  in  perspective  which 
were  delivered  in  his  book, 

I  concluded  this  year  in  health,  for  which  I  gave  solemn 
thanks  to  Almighty  God.* 

29th  December,  1649.  I  christened  Sir  Hugh  Rilie's 
child  with  Sir  George  Radcliffe  in  our  chapel,  the  par- 
ents being  so  poor  that  they  had  provided  no  gossips, 
so  as  several  of  us  drawing  lots  it  fell  on  me,  the 
Dean  of  Peterborough  (  Dr.  Cousin )  officiating :  we  named 
it  Andrew,  being  on  the  eve  of  that  Apostle's  day. 

ist  January,  1649-50.  I  began  this  Jubilee  with  the 
public  office  in  our  chapel:  dined  at  my  Lady  Herbert's, 
wife  of  Sir  Edward  Herbert,  afterward  Lord  Keeper. 

i8th  January,  1650.  This  night  was  the  Prince  of 
Cond^  and  his  brother  carried  prisoners  to  the  Bois  de 
Vincennes. 

6th  February,  1650.  In  the  evening,  came  Signor 
Alessandro,  one  of  the  Cardinal  Mazarine's  musicians, 
and  a  person  of  great  name  for  his  knowledge  in  that 
art,  to  visit  my  wife,  and  sung  before  divers  persons  of 
quality  in  my   chamber. 

ist  March,  1650.  I  went  to  see  the  masquerados,  which 
was  very  fantastic;  but  nothing  so  quiet  and  solemn  as 
I  found  it  at  Venice. 

13th  March,  1650.  Saw  a  triumph  in  Monsieur  del 
Camp's  Academy,  where  divers  of  the  French  and  Eng- 
lish noblesse,  especially  my  Lord  of  Ossory,  and  Rich- 
ard, sons  to  the  Marquis  of  Ormond  (afterward  Duke),  did 

*  This  he  does  not  fail  to  repeat  at  the  end  of  every  year,  but  it  will 
not  always  be  necessary  here  to  insert  IL 


1649-50  JOHN  EVELYN  253 

their  exercises  on  horseback  in  noble  equipage,  before  a 
world  of  spectators  and  great  persons,  men  and  ladies. 
It  ended  in  a  collation. 

25th  April,  1650.  I  went  out  of  town  to  see  Madrid,  a 
palace  so  called,  built  by  Francis  I.  It  is  observable 
only  for  its  open  manner  of  architecture,  being  much 
of  terraces  and  galleries  one  over  another  to  the  very 
roof;  and  for  the  materials,  which  are  mostly  of  earth 
painted  like  porcelain,  or  China-ware,  whose  colors  appear 
very  fresh,  but  is  very  fragile.  There  are  whole  statues 
and  relievos  of  this  pottery,  chimney-pieces,  and  columns 
both  within  and  without.  Under  the  chapel  is  a  chimney 
in  the  midst  of  a  room  parted  from  the  Salle  des  Gardes. 
The  house  is  fortified  with  a  deep  ditch,  and  has  an  ad- 
mirable vista  toward  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  and  river. 

30th  April,  1650.  I  went  to  see  the  collection  of  the 
famous  sculptor,  Steffano  de  la  Bella,  returning  now  into 
Italy,  and  bought  some  prints ;  and  likewise  visited  Perelle, 
the  landscape  graver. 

3d  May,  1650.  At  the  hospital  of  La  Charit€  I  saw  the 
operation  of  cutting  for  the  stone.  A  child  of  eight  or 
nine  years  old  underwent  the  operation  with  most  extra- 
ordinary patience,  and  expressing  great  joy  when  he  saw 
the  stone  was  drawn.  The  use  I  made  of  it  was,  to  give 
Almighty  God  hearty  thanks  that  I  had  not  been  subject 
to  this  deplorable  infirmity. 

7th  May,  1650.  I  went  with  Sir  Richard  Browne's  lady 
and  my  wife,  together  with  the  Earl  of  Chesterfield,  Lord 
Ossory  and  his  brother,  to  Vamber,  a  place  near  the  city 
famous  for  butter;  when,  coming  homeward,  being  on 
foot,  a  quarrel  arose  between  Lord  Ossory  and  a  man  in 
a  garden,  who  thrust  Lord  Ossory  from  the  gate  with 
uncivil  language ;  on  which  our  young  gallants  struck  the 
fellow  on  the  pate,  and  bade  him  ask  pardon,  which  he 
did  with  much  submission,  and  so  we  parted.  But  we 
were  not  gone  far  before  we  heard  a  noise  behind  us,  and 
saw  people  coming  with  guns,  swords,  staves,  and  forks, 
and  who  followed,  flinging  stones ;  on  which,  we  turned,  and 
were  forced  to  engage,  and  with  our  swords,  stones,  and 
the  help  of  our  servants  (one  of  whom  had  a  pistol)  made 
our  retreat  for  near  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  when  we  took 
shelter  in  a  house,  where  we  were  besieged,  and  at  length 
forced  to   submit    to  be   prisoners.      Lord    Hatton,    with 


254  DIARY     OF  Paris 

some  others,  were  taken  prisoners  in  the  flight,  and  his 
lordship  was  confined  under  three  locks  and  as  many 
doors  in  this  rude  fellow's  master's  house,  who  pretended 
to  be  steward  to  Monsieur  St.  Germain,  one  of  the  presidents 
of  the  Grand  Chambre  du  Parlement,  and  a  Canon  of  Notre 
Dame.  Several  of  us  were  much  hurt.  One  of  our  lack- 
eys escaping  to  Paris,  caused  the  bailiff  of  St.  Germain 
to  come  with  his  guard  and  rescue  us.  Immediately 
afterward,  came  Monsieur  St.  Germain  himself,  in  great 
wrath,  on  hearing  that  his  housekeeper  was  assaulted; 
but  when  he  saw  the  King's  ofl&cers,  the  gentlemen  and 
noblemen,  with  his  Majesty's  Resident  and  understood 
the  occasion,  he  was  ashamed  of  the  accident,  requesting 
the  fellow's  pardon,  and  desiring  the  ladies  to  accept  their 
submission  and  a  supper  at  his  house.  It  was  ten  o'clock 
at  night  ere  we  got  to  Paris,  guarded  by  Prince  Griffith 
(a  Welsh  hero  going  under  that  name,  and  well  known 
in  England  for  his  extravagancies),  together  with  the 
scholars  of  two  academies,  who  came  forth  to  assist  and 
meet  us  on  horseback,  and  would  fain  have  alarmed  the 
town  we  received  the  affront  from :  which,  with  much  ado, 
we  prevented. 

12th  May,  1650.  Complaint  being  come  to  the  Queen 
and  Court  of  France  of  the  affront  we  had  received,  the 
President  was  ordered  to  ask  pardon  of  Sir  R.  Browne, 
his  Majesty's  Resident,  and  the  fellow  to  make  submis- 
sion, and  be  dismissed.  There  came  along  with  him  the 
President  de  Thou,  son  of  the  gfreat  Thuanus  [the  his- 
torian ],  and  so  all  was  composed.  But  I  have  often  heard 
that  gallant  gentleman,  my  Lord  Ossory,  afl&rm  solemnly 
that  in  all  the  conflicts  he  was  ever  in  at  sea  or  on  land 
(in  the  most  desperate  of  both  which  he  had  often  been), 
he  believed  he  was  never  in  so  much  danger  as  when 
these  people  rose  against  us.  He  used  to  call  it  the 
hataile  de  Vambre,  and  remember  it  with  a  g^eat  deal  of 
mirth  as  an  adventure,  en  cavalier. 

24th  May,  1650.  We  were  invited  by  the  Noble  Acad- 
emies to  a  running  at  the  ring  where  were  many  brave 
horses,  gallants,  and  ladies,  my  Lord  Stanhope  entertain- 
ing us  with  a  collation. 

12th  June,  1650.  Being  Trinity  Sunday,  the  Dean  of 
Peterborough  preached ;  after  which  there  was  an  ordina- 
tion of  two   divines,  Durell   and   Brevent  (the  one   was 


1650  JOHN  EVELYN  455 

afterward  Dean  of  Windsor,  the  other  of  Durham, 
both  very  learned  persons).  The  Bishop  of  Galloway 
officiated  with  great  gravity,  after  a  pious  and  learned 
exhortation  declaring  the  weight  and  dignity  of  their 
function,  especially  now  in  a  time  of  the  poor  Church  of 
England's  affliction.  He  magnified  the  sublimity  of  the 
calling,  from  the  object,  viz,  the  salvation  of  men's  souls, 
and  the  glory  of  God;  producing  many  human  instances 
of  the  transitoriness  and  vanity  of  all  other  dignity;  that 
of  all  the  triumphs  the  Roman  conquerors  made,  none 
was  comparable  to  that  of  our  Blessed  Savior's,  when  he 
led  captivity  captive,  and  gave  gifts  to  men,  namely,  that 
of  the  Holy  Spirit,  by  which  his  faithful  and  painful 
ministers  triumphed  over  Satan  as  often  as  they  reduced  a 
sinner  from  the  error  of  his  ways.  He  then  proceeded 
to  the  ordination.  They  were  presented  by  the  Dean  in 
their  surplices  before  the  altar,  the  Bishop  sitting  in  a 
chair  at  one  side;  and  so  were  made  both  Deacons  and 
Priests  at  the  same  time,  in  regard  to  the  necessity  of 
the  times,  there  being  so  few  Bishops  left  in  England, 
and  consequently  danger  of  a  failure  of  both  functions. 
Lastly,  they  proceeded  to  the  Communion.  This  was  all 
performed  in  Sir  Richard  Browne's  chapel,  at  Paris. 

13th  June,  1650.  I  sate  to  the  famous  sculptor,  Nan- 
teuil,  who  was  afterward  made  a  knight  by  the  French 
King  for  his  art.  He  engraved  my  picture  in  copper. 
At  a  future  time  he  presented  me  with  my  own  picture, 
done  all  with  his  pen;  an  extraordinary  curiosity. 

2ist  June,  1650.  I  went  to  see  the  Samaritan,  or  pump, 
at  the  end  of  the  Pont  Neuf,  which,  though  to  appear- 
ance promising  no  great  matter,  is,  besides  the  machine, 
furnished  with  innumerable  rarities  both  of  art  and  na- 
ture; especially  the  costly  grotto,  where  are  the  fairest 
corals,  growing  out  of  the  very  rock,  that  I  have  seen; 
also  great  pieces  of  crystals,  amethysts,  gold  in  the  mine, 
and  other  metals  and  marcasites,  with  two  great  conchas, 
which  the  owner  told  us  cost  him  200  crowns  at  Amster- 
dam. He  showed  us  many  landscapes  and  prospects, 
very  rarely  painted  in  miniature,  some  with  the  pen  and 
crayon;  divers  antiquities  and  relievos  of  Rome;  above 
all,  that  of  the  inside  of  the  amphitheater  of  Titus,  in- 
comparably drawn  by  Monsieur  St.  CI  ere  himself;  two 
boys  and  three   skeletons,  molded   by   Fiamingo;  a  book 


256  DIARY   OP  CALAIS 

of  statues,  with  the  pen  made  for  Henry  IV.,  rarely  ex- 
ecuted, and  by  which  one  may  discover  many  errors  in 
the  taille-douce  of  Perrier,  who  has  added  divers  conceits 
of  his  own  that  are  not  in  the  originals.  He  has  like- 
wise an  infinite  collection  of  taille-douces^  richly  bound 
in  morocco. 

He  led  us  into  a  stately  chamber  furnished  to  have  en- 
tertained a  prince,  with  pictures  of  the  greatest  masters, 
especially  a  Venus  of  Perino  del  Vaga;  the  Putti  carved 
in  the  chimney-piece  by  the  Fleming;  the  vases  of  porce- 
lain, and  many  designed  by  Raphael;  some  paintings  of 
Poussin,  and  Fioravanti;  antiques  in  brass;  the  looking- 
glass  and  stands  rarely  carved.  In  a  word,  all  was  great, 
choice,  and  magnificent,  and  not  to  be  passed  by  as  I 
had  often  done,  without  the  least  suspicion  that  there 
were  such  rare  things  to  be  seen  in  that  place.  At  a 
future  visit,  he  showed  a  new  grotto  and  a  bathing  place, 
hewn  through  the  battlements  of  the  arches  of  Pont 
Neuf  into  a  wide  vault  at  the  intercolumniation,  so  that 
the  coaches  and  horses  thundered  over  our  heads. 

27th  June,  1650.  I  made  my  will,  and,  taking  leave 
of  my  wife  and  other  friends,  took  horse  for  England, 
paying  the  messenger  eight  pistoles  for  me  and  my  serv- 
ant to  Calais,  setting  out  with  seventeen  in  company 
well-armed,  some  Portuguese,  Swiss,  and  French,  whereof 
six  were  captains  and  officers.  We  came  the  first  night 
to  Beaumont;  next  day,  to  Beauvais,  and  lay  at  Pois, 
and  the  next,  without  dining,  reached  Abbeville;  next, 
dined  at  Montreuil,  and  proceeding  met  a  company  on 
foot  (being  now  within  the  inroads  of  the  parties  which 
dangerously  infest  this  day's  journey  from  St.  Omers 
and  the  frontiers),  which  we  drew  very  near  to,  ready 
and  resolute  to  charge  through,  and  accordingly  were 
ordered  and  led  by  a  captain  of  our  train;  but,  as  we 
were  on  the  speed,  they  called  out,  and  proved  to  be 
Scotchmen,  newly  raised  and  landed,  and  few  among 
them  armed.  This  night,  we  were  well  treated  at 
Boulogne.  The  next  day,  we  marched  in  good  order,  the 
passage  being  now  exceeding  dangerous,  and  got  to  Calais 
by  a  little  after  two.  The  sun  so  scorched  my  face, 
that  it  made  the  skin  peel  off. 

I  dined  with  Mr.  Booth,  his  Majesty's  agent;  and, 
about  three   in   the   afternoon,  embarked  in   the  packet- 


1650  JOHN  EVELYN  257 

boat;  hearing  there  was  a  pirate  then  also  setting  sail, 
we  had  security  from  molestation,  and  so  with  a  fair  S. 
W.  wind  in  seven  hours  we  landed  at  Dover.  The  busy 
watchman  would  have  us  to  the  mayor  to  be  searched, 
but  the  gentleman  being  in  bed.  we  were  dismissed. 

Next  day,  being  Sunday,  they  would  not  permit  us  to 
ride  post,  so  that  afternoon  our  trunks  were  visited. 

The  next  morning,  by  four,  we  set  out  for  Canterbury, 
where  I  met  with  my  Lady  Catherine  Scott,  whom  that 
very  day  twelve  months  before  I  met  at  sea  going  for 
France;  she  had  been  visiting  Sir  Thomas  Peyton,  not 
far  off,  and  would  needs  carry  me  in  her  coach  to 
Gravesend.  We  dined  at  Sittingboume,  came  late  to 
Gravesend,  and  so  to  Deptford,  taking  leave  of  my  lady 
about  four  the  next  morning. 

5th  July,  1650.  I  supped  in  the  city  with  my  Lady 
Catherine  Scott,  at  one  Mr.  Dubois,  where  was  a  gentle- 
woman called  Everard,  who  was  a  very  great  chemist. 

Sunday  7th  July,  1650.  In  the  afternoon,  having  a  mind 
to  see  what  was  doing  among  the  Rebels,  then  in  full 
possession  at  Whitehall,  I  went  thither,  and  found  one  at 
exercise  in  the  chapel,  after  their  way;  thence,  to  St. 
James's,  where  another  was  preaching  in  the  court  abroad. 

17th  July,  1650.  I  went  to  London  to  obtain  a  pass,* 
intending  but  a  short  stay  in  England. 

25th  July,  1650.  I  went  by  Epsom  to  Wotton,  saluting 
Sir  Robert  Cook  and  my  sister  Glanville;  the  country 
was  now  much  molested  by  soldiers,  who  took  away 
gentlemen's  horses  for  the  senace  of  the  state,  as  then 
called. 

*  A  copy  of  it  is  subjoined .  «  These  are  to  will  and  require  you  to 
permit  and  suffer  the  bearer  thereof,  John  Evelyn,  Esq.,  to  transport 
himself,  two  servants,  and  other  necessaries,  into  any  port  of  France 
without  any  your  lets  or  molestations,  of  which  you  are  not  to  fail,  and 
for  which  this  shall  be  your  suflBcient  warrant  Given  at  the  Council 
of  State  at  Whitehall  this  25th  of  June,  1650. 

«  Signed  in  the  Name  and  by  Order  of  the  Council  of  State, 
appointed  by  authority  of  Parliament, 

Jo.  Bradshawe,  President 
®  To  all  Customers,  Comptrollers  and  Searchers,  and 

all  other  officers  of  the  Ports,  or  Customs. » 
Subjoined  to  the  signature,   Evelyn  has  added  in  his  own  writing; 
« The  hand  of  that  villain  who  sentenced  our  Charles  I.*of  B[lessed] 
M[emory.»]     Its  endorsement,  also  in  his  writing,  is,  "The  Pass  from 
the  Council  of  State,  1650. » 
17 


258  DIARY    OF  CALAIS 

4th  August,  1650.  I  heard  a  sermon  at  the  Rolls;  and, 
in  the  afternoon,  wandered  to  divers  churches,  the  pul- 
pits full  of  novices  and  novelties. 

6th  August,  1650.  To  Mr.  Walker's,  a  good  painter, 
who  showed  me  an  excellent  copy  of  Titian. 

12th  Augfust,  1650.  Set  out  for  Paris,  taking  post  at 
Gravesend,  and  so  that  night  to  Canterbury,  where  being 
surprised  by  the  soldiers,  and  having  only  an  antiquated 
pass,  with  some  fortunate  dexterity  I  got  clear  of  them 
though  not  without  extraordinary  hazard,  having  before 
counterfeited  one  with  success,  it  being  so  difficult  to 
procure  one  of  the  rebels  without  entering  into  oaths, 
which  I  never  would  do.  At  Dover,  money  to  the 
searchers  and  officers  was  as  authentic  as  the  hand  and 
seal  of  Bradshawe  himself,  where  I  had  not  so  much  as 
my  trunk  opened. 

13th  August,  1650,  At  six  in  the  evening,  set  sail  for 
Calais ;  the  wind  not  favorable,  I  was  very  sea-sick,  com- 
ing to  an  anchor  about  one  o'clock;  about  five  in  the 
morning,  we  had  a  long  boat  to  carry  us  to  land,  though 
at  a  good  distance;  this  we  willingly  entered,  because 
two  vessels  were  chasing  us;  but,  being  now  almost 
at  the  harbor's  mouth,  through  inadvertency  there  broke 
in  upon  us  two  such  heavy  seas,  as  had  almost  sunk  the 
boat,  I  being  near  the  middle  up  in  water.  Our  steers- 
man, it  seems,  apprehensive  of  the  danger,  was  preparing 
to  leap  into  the  sea  and  trust  to  swimming,  but  seeing 
the  vessel  emerge,  he  put  her  into  the  pier,  and  so,  God 
be  thanked!  we  got  to  Calais,  though  wet. 

Here  I  waited  for  company,  the  passage  toward  Paris 
being  still  infested  with  volunteers  from  the  Spanish 
frontiers. 

i6th  August,  1650.  The  Regiment  of  Picardy,  consist- 
ing of  about  1,400  horse  and  foot  (among  them  was  a 
captain  whom  I  knew),  being  come  to  town,  I  took  horses 
for  myself  and  servant,  and  marched  under  their  protec- 
tion to  Boulogne.  It  was  a  miserable  spectacle  to  see 
how  these  tattered  soldiers  pillaged  the  poor  people  of 
their  sheep,  poultry,  corn,  cattle,  and  whatever  came  in 
their  way ;  but  they  had  such  ill  pay,  that  they  were  ready 
themselves  to  starve. 

As  we  passed  St.  Denis,  the  people  were  in  uproar, 
the   guards   doubled,  and  everybody  running   with   their 


i6so-5i  JOHN    EVELYN  259 

movables  to  Paris,  on  an  alarm  that  the  enemy  was 
within  five  leagues  of  them;  so  miserably  exposed  was 
even  this  part  of  France  at  this  time. 

The  30th,  I  got  to  Paris,  after  an  absence  of  two  months 
only. 

ist  September,  1650.  My  Lady  Herbert  invited  me  to 
dinner;  Paris,  and  indeed  all  France,  being  full  of  loyal 
fugitives. 

Came  Mr.  Waller  to  see  me,  about  a  child  of  his  which 
the  Popish  midwife  had  baptized. 

15th  October,  1650.  Sir  Thomas  Osborne  (afterward 
Lord  Treasurer)  and  Lord  Stanhope  shot  for  a  wager  of 
five  louis,  to  be  spent  on  a  treat ;  they  shot  so  exact  that 
it  was  a  drawn  match. 

I  St  November,  1650.  Took  leave  of  my  Lord  Stanhope, 
going  on  his  journey  toward  Italy;  also  visited  my  Lord 
Hatton,  Comptroller  of  his  Majesty's  Household,  the 
Countess  of  Morton,  Governess  to  the  Lady  Henrietta, 
and   Mrs.    Gardner,  one  of  the  Queen's  maids   of  honor. 

6th  November,  1650.  Sir  Thomas  Osborne  supping  with 
us,  his  groom  was  set  upon  in  the  street  before  our  house, 
and  received  two  wounds,  but  gave  the  assassin  nine,  who 
was  carried  off  to  the  Charit6  Hospital.  Sir  Thomas  went 
for  England  on  the  8th,  and  carried  divers  letters  for  me 
to  my  friends. 

1 6th  November,  1650.  I  went  to  Monsieur  Visse's,  the 
French  King's  Secretary,  to  a  concert  of  French  music  and 
voices,  consisting-  of  twenty-four,  two  theorbos,  and  but 
one  bass  viol,  being  a  rehearsal  of  what  was  to  be  sung 
at  vespers  at  St.  Cecelia's,  on  her  feast,  she  being  patroness 
of  Musician's.  News  arrived  of  the  death  of  the  Princess 
of  Orange  of  the  smallpox. 

14th  December,  1650.  I  went  to  visit  Mr.  Ratcliffe,  in 
whose  lodging  was  an  imposter  that  had  liked  to  have 
imposed  upon  us  a  pretended  secret  of  multiplying  gold ; 
it  is  certain  he  had  lived  some  time  in  Paris  in  extraordi- 
nary splendor,  but  I  found  him  to  be  an  egregious  cheat. 

2 2d  December,  1650.  Came  the  learned  Dr.  Boet  to 
visit  me, 

31st  December,  1650.  I  gave  Grod  thanks  for  his  mercy 
and  protection  the  past  year,  and  made  up  my  accounts, 
which  came  this  year  to  7,015  livres,   near  jQ6oo  sterling. 

ist  January,  1650-51.     I  wrote  to  my  brother  at  Wotton, 


26d  DIARY  OP  PARIS 

about  his  garden  and  fountains.  After  evening  prayer, 
Mr.  Wainsford  called  on  me :  he  had  long  been  Consul  at 
Aleppo,  and  told  me  many  strange  things  of  those  coun- 
tries, the  Arabs  especially. 

27th  January,  165 1.  I  had  letters  of  the  death  of  Mrs. 
Newton,  my  grand-mother-in-law;  she  had  a  most  tender 
care  of  me  during  my  childhood,  and  was  a  woman  of 
extraordinary  charity  and  piety. 

29th  January,  165 1.  Dr.  Duncan  preached  on  8  Matt. 
V.  34,  showing  the  mischief  of  covetousness.  My  Lord 
Marquis  of  Ormonde  and  Inchiquin,  come  newly  out  of 
Ireland,  were  this  day  at  chapel. 

9th  February,  165 1.  Cardinal  Mazarin  was  proscribed 
by  Arret  du  Parlement,  and  great  commotions  began  in 
Paris. 

23d  February,  165 1.  I  went  to  see  the  Bonnes  Hommes, 
a  convent  that  has  a  fair  cloister  painted  with  the 
lives  of  hermits;  a  glorious  altar  now  erecting  in  the 
chapel ;  the  garden  on  the  rock  with  divers  descents,  with 
a  fine  vineyard,  and  a  delicate  prospect  toward  the  city. 

24th  February,  1651.  I  went  to  see  a  dromedary,  a 
very  monstrous  beast,  much  like  the  camel,  but  larger. 
There  was  also  dancing  on  the  rope;  but,  above  all,  sur- 
prising to  those  who  were  ignorant  of  the  address,  was 
the  water-spouter,  who,  drinking  only  fountain-water, 
rendered  out  of  his  mouth  in  several  glasses  all  sorts  of 
wine  and  sweet  waters.  For  a  piece  of  money  he  dis- 
covered the  secret  to  me,  I  waited  on  Friar  Nicholas  at 
the  convent  at  Chaillot,  who,  being  an  excellent  chemist, 
showed  me  his  laboratory,  and  rare  collection  of  spagyr- 
ical  remedies.  He  was  both  physician  and  apothecary  of 
the  convent,  and,  instead  of  the  names  of  his  drugs,  he 
painted  his  boxes  and  pots  with  the  figure  of  the  drug, 
or  simple,  contained  in  them.  He  showed  me  as  a  rarity 
some  0  of  antimony.  He  had  cured  Monsieur  Senatin  of 
a  desperate  sickness,  for  which  there  was  building  a 
monumental  altar  that  was  to  cost  ;;^i,5oo. 

nth  March,  165 1.  I  went  to  the  Chatelet,  or  prison, 
where  a  malefactor  was  to  have  the  question,  or  tort- 
ure, given  to  him,  he  refusing  to  confess  the  robbery 
with  which  he  was  charged,  which  was  thus:  they  first 
bound  his  wrist  with  a  strong  rope,  or  small  cable,  and 
one  end  of  it  to  an  iron  ring  made  fast  to  the  wall,  about 


1651  JOHN  EVELYN  261 

four  feet  from  the  floor,  and  then  his  feet  with  another 
cable,  fastened  about  five  feet  further  than  his  utmost 
length  to  another  ring  on  the  floor  of  the  room.  Thus 
suspended,  and  yet  lying  but  aslant,  they  slid  a  horse  of 
wood  under  the  rope  which  bound  his  feet,  which  so  ex- 
ceedingly stiffened  it,  as  severed  the  fellow's  joints  in 
miserable  sort,  drawing  him  out  at  length  in  an  extraor- 
dinary manner,  he  having  only  a  pair  of  linen  drawers 
on  his  naked  body.  Then,  they  questioned  him  of  a  rob- 
bery (the  lieutenant  being  present  and  a  clerk  that 
wrote),  which  not  confessing,  they  put  a  higher  horse 
under  the  rope,  to  increase  the  torture  and  extension. 
In  this  agony,  confessing  nothing,  the  executioner  with 
a  horn  (just  such  as  they  drench  horses  with)  stuck  the 
end  of  it  into  his  mouth,  and  poured  the  quantity  of  two 
buckets  of  water  down  his  throat  and  over  him,  which 
so  prodigiously  swelled  him,  as  would  have  pitied  and 
aflErighted  any  one  to  see  it;  for  all  this,  he  denied  all 
that  was  charged  to  him.  They  then  let  him  down,  and 
carried  him  before  a  warm  fire  to  bring  him  to  himself, 
being  now  to  all  appearance  dead  with  pain.  What  be- 
came of  him,  I  know  not;  but  the  gentleman  whom  he 
robbed  constantly  averred  him  to  be  the  man,  and  the 
fellow's  suspicious  pale  looks,  before  he  knew  he  should 
be  racked,  betrayed  some  guilt;  the  lieutenant  was  also 
of  that  opinion,  and  told  us  at  first  sight  (for  he  was  a 
lean,  dry,  black  young  man)  he  would  conquer  the  tor- 
ture; and  so  it  seems  they  could  not  hang  him,  but  did 
use  in  such  cases,  where  the  evidence  is  very  presumptive, 
to  send  them  to  the  galleys,  which  is  as  bad  as  death. 

There  was  another  malefactor  to  succeed,  but  the 
spectacle  was  so  uncomfortable,  that  I  was  not  able  to 
stay  the  sight  of  another.  It  represented  yet  to  me  the 
intolerable  sufferings  which  our  Blessed  Savior  must  needs 
undergo,  when  his  body  was  hanging  with  all  its  weight 
upon  the  nails  on  the  cross. 

20th  March,  165 1.  I  went  this  night  with  my  wife  to 
a  ball  at  the  Marquis  de  Crevecoeur's,  where  were  divers 
princes,  dukes,  and  great  persons;  but  what  appeared  to 
me  very  mean  was,  that  it  began  with  a  puppet-play. 

6th  May,  1651.  I  attended  the  ambassador  to  a  masque 
at  Court,  where  the  French  King  in  person  danced  five 
entries,  but  being  engaged  in  discourse,  and  better  enter- 


262  DIARY  OF  PARIS 

tained  with  one  of  the  Queen- Regent's  secretaries,  I 
soon  left  the  entertainment. 

nth  May,  165 1.  To  the  Palace  Cardinal,  where  the  Mas- 
ter of  the  Ceremonies  placed  me  to  see  the  royal  masque, 
or  opera.  The  first  scene  represented  a  chariot  of  sing- 
ers composed  of  the  rarest  voices  that  could  be  procured, 
representing  Comaro*  and  Temperance;  this  was  over- 
thrown by  Bacchus  and  his  revelers;  the  rest  consisted 
of  several  entries  and  pageants  of  excess,  by  all  the  ele- 
ments, A  masque  representing  fire  was  admirable;  then 
came  a  Venus  out  of  the  clouds.  The  conclusion  was  a 
heaven,  whither  all  ascended.  But  the  glory  of  the  masque 
was  the  great  persons  performing  in  it,  the  French  King, 
his  brother  the  Duke  of  Anjou,  with  all  the  grandees  of 
the  Court,  the  King  performing  to  the  admiration  of  all. 
The  music  was  twenty-nine  violins,  vested  h  V antique, 
but  the  habits  of  the  masquers  were  stupendously  rich 
and  glorious. 

23d  May,  1 65 1.  I  went  to  take  leave  of  the  ambassa- 
dors for  Spain,  which  were  my  Lord  Treasurer  Cotting- 
ton  and  Sir  Edward  Hyde;  and,  as  I  returned,  I  visited 
Mr.  Morine's  garden,  and  his  other  rarities,  especially 
corals,  minerals,  stones,  and  natural  curiosities;  crabs  of 
the  Red  Sea,  the  body  no  bigger  than  a  small  bird's  &%Z> 
but  flatter,  and  the  two  legs,  or  claws,  a  foot  in  length. 
He  had  abundance  of  shells,  at  least  1,000  sorts,  which 
furnished  a  cabinet  of  great  price;  and  had  a  very  curi- 
ous collection  of  scarabees  and  insects,  of  which  he  was 
compiling  a  natural  history.  He  had  also  the  pictures  of 
his  choice  flowers  and  plants  in  miniature.  He  told  me 
there  were  10,000  sorts  of  tulips  only.  He  had  taille- 
douces  out  of  number;  the  head  of  the  rhinoceros  bird, 
which  was  very  extravagant,  and  one  butterfly  resembling 
a  perfect  bird. 

25th  May,  165 1.  I  went  to  visit  Mr.  Thomas  White,  a 
learned  priest  and  famous  philosopher,!  author  of  the  book 
"De    Mundo,"   with    whose   worthy  brother  I     was    well 

*  The  famous  Venetian  writer  on  Temperance. 

t  A  native  of  Essex,  who  was  bom  in  1582,  educated  abroad,  and,  his 
family  being  Catholic,  became  a  priest  of  that  church,  the  sub-rector  of 
the  college  at  Douay.  He  advocated  the  Cartesian  philosophy,  and  this 
brought  him  into  an  extensive  correspondence  with  Hobbes  and  Des. 
cartes,  in  the  course  of  which  he  Latinized  his  name  into  Thomas  Albius, 
pr  De  Albis.    He  died  in  1676. 


1651  JOHN   EVELYN  263 

acquainted  at  Rome.  I  was  shown  a  cabinet  of  Maroquin,  or 
Turkey  leather,  so  curiously  inlaid  with  other  leather,  and 
gilding,  that  the  workman  demanded  for  it  800  livres. 

The  Dean  (of  Peterborough)  preached  on  the  feast  of 
Pentecost,  perstringing  those  of  Geneva  for  their  irrever- 
ence of  the  Blessed  Virgin. 

4th  June,  165 1.  Trinity  Sunday,  I  was  absent  from 
church  in  the  afternoon  on  a  charitable  affair  for  the 
Abbess  of  Bourcharvant,  who  but  for  me  had  been  abused 
by  that  chemist,  Du  Menie.  Returning,  I  stepped  into  the 
Grand  Jesuits,  who  had  this  high  day  exposed  their  Cibarium, 
made  all  of  solid  gold  and  imagery,  a  piece  of  infinite 
cost.  Dr.  Croydon,  coming  out  of  Italy  and  from  Padua, 
came  to  see  me,  on  his  return  to  England. 

5th  June,  165 1.  I  accompanied  my  Lord  Strafford,  and 
some  other  noble  persons,  to  hear  Madam  Lavaran  sing, 
which  she  did  both  in  French  and  Italian  excellently  well, 
but  her  voice  was  not  strong. 

7th  June,  165 1.  Corpus  Christi  Day,  there  was  a  grand 
procession,  all  the  streets  tapestried,  several  altars  erected 
there,  full  of  images,  and  other  rich  furniture,  especially 
that  before  the  Court,  of  a  rare  design  and  architecture. 
There  were  abundance  of  excellent  pictures  and  great 
vases  of  silver. 

13th  June,  1 65 1.  I  went  to  see  the  collection  of  one  Mon- 
sieur Poignant,  which  for  variety  of  agates,  crystals,  onyxes, 
porcelain,  medals,  statues,  relievos,  paintings,  taille-douces, 
and  antiquities,  might  compare  with  the  Italian  virtuosos. 

2ist  June,  1 65 1.  I  became  acquainted  with  Sieur 
William  Curtius,  a  very  learned  and  judicious  person  of  the 
Palatinate.  He  had  been  a  scholar  to  Alstedius,  the  Ency- 
clopedist, was  well  advanced  in  years,  and  now  Resident 
for  his  Majesty  at  Frankfort. 

2d  July,  1 65 1.  Came  to  see  me  the  EarJ  of  Strafford, 
Lord  Ossory  and  his  brother,  Sir  John  Southcott,  Sir 
Edward  Stawell,  two  of  my  Lord  Spencer's  sons,  and  Dr. 
Stewart,  Dean  of  St.  Paul's,  a  learned  and  pious  man, 
where  we  entertained  the  time  upon  several  subjects, 
especially  the  affairs  of  England,  and  the  lamentable 
condition  of  our  Church.  The  Lord  Gerrard  also  called 
to   see  my   collection   of   sieges   and  battles. 

2ist  July,  1651.  An  extraordinary  fast  was  celebrated 
in  our  Chapel,  Dr.  Stewart,  Dean  of   St.  Paul's,  preaching. 


264  DIARY  OF  Paris 

2d  August,  165 1.  I  went  with  my  wife  to  Conflans, 
where  were  abundance  of  ladies  and  others  bathing  in 
the  river;  the  ladies  had  their  tents  spread  on  the 
water  for   privacy. 

29th  August,  1 65 1.  Was  kept  as  a  solemn  fast  for 
the  calamities  of  our  poor  Church,  now  trampled  on 
by  the  the  rebels.  Mr.  Waller,  being  at  St.  Germains, 
desired  me  to  send  him  a  coach  from  Paris,  to  bring 
my  wife's  goddaughter  to  Paris,  to  be  buried  by  the 
Common    Prayer. 

6th  September,  165 1.  I  went  with  my  wife  to  St. 
Germains,  to  condole  with  Mr.  Waller's  loss.  I  carried 
with  me  and  treated  at  dinner  that  excellent  and  pious 
person  the  Dean  of  St.  Paul's,  Dr.  Stewart,  and  Sir 
Lewis  Dives  (half-brother  to  the  Earl  of  Bristol),  who 
entertained  us  with  his  wonderful  escape  out  of  prison 
in  Whitehall,  the  very  evening  before  he  was  to  have 
been  put  to  death,  leaping  down  out  of  a  jakes  two 
stories  high  into  the  Thames  at  high  water,  in  the 
coldest  of  winter,  and  at  night;  so  as  by  swimming  he 
got  to  a  boat  that  attended  for  him,  though  he  was 
gfuarded  by  six  musketeers.  After  this,  he  went  about 
in  women's  habit,  and  then  in  a  small-coal-man's,  travel- 
ing 200  miles  on  foot,  embarked  for  Scotland  with 
some  men  he  had  raised,  who  coming  on  shore  were 
all  surprised  and  imprisoned  on  the  Marquis  of  Mont- 
rose's score ;  he  not  knowing  anything  of  their  barbarous 
murder  of  that  hero.  This  he  told  us  was  his  fifth 
escape,  and  none  less  miraculous;  with  this  note,  that 
the  charging  through  1,000  men  armed,  or  whatever 
danger  could  befall  a  man,  he  believed  could  not  more 
confound  and  distract  a  man's  thoughts  than  the  execu- 
tion of  a  premeditated  escape,  the  passions  of  hope  and 
fear  being  so  strong.  This  knight  was  indeed  a  val- 
iant gentleman ;  but  not  a  little  given  to  romance,  when 
he  spoke  of  himself.  I  returned  to  Paris  the  same 
evening. 

7th  September,  1651.  I  went  to  visit  Mr.  Hobbes,  the 
famous  philosopher  of  Malmesbury,  with  whom  I  had 
long  acquaintance.  From  his  window  we  saw  the  whole 
equipage  and  glorious  cavalcade  of  the  young  French 
Monarch,  Louis  XIV.,  passing  to  Parliament,  when  first 
he  took  the  kingly  government  on  him,  now  being  in  his 


W.irrant  to  ExcciUe  King  Charles  the  First,  A.D.  /64S 

At  the  High  Court  0/  Justice  for  the  trying  and  judging  0/  Charles 
Steuart,  king  of  England,  January  29,  Anno  Domini  164S. 

Whereas  Charles  Steuart,  king  of  England,  is  and  standeth  cotivicted, 
attaynted,  and  condemned  of  high  Treason  and  other  high  crymes,  and 
Sentence  uppon  Saturday  last  zuas pronounced  against  him  by  this  Court  to 
be  putt  to  death  by  the  severing  of  his  head  from  his  body,  of  which  Sentence 
execution  yet  reniayneth  to  be  done :  These  arc  therefore  to  ivilland  require 
you  to  see  the  said  sentence  executed  in  the  open  Strcete  before  Whitehall  upon 
the  morrow  being  the  Thirtieth  day  of  this  instant  month  of  January, 
between  the  hours  of  Tenn  in  the  morning  and  five  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
same  day,  with  full  effect.  And  for  so  doing  this  shall  be  your  sufficient 
warrant.  And  these  are  to  require  all  Officers  and  Soldiery  and  other  the 
good  people  of  this  nation  of  England  to  be  assisting  unto  you  in  this  Service. 
Given  under  our  hands  and  Seals. 

To  Collonell  Ffrancis  Hacker 
Colonell  Hunks 

and  Lieutenant  Colonell  Phayre, 
and  to  every  of  them. 


Jo.  Bradshawe 
Tho.  Grey 
O.  Cromwell 
Edw.   Whalley 


F.  Livesey 
John  Okcy 
J.  Danvers 
Jo.  Bourchier 
H.  Ireton 


Har.  Waller 
John  Blakiston 
J.  Hutchinson 
Will.  Goff 
Tho.  Pride 


Tho.  Maulevercr    Pr.  Temple 
T.  Harrison 
J.  Hewson 


Hcfi.  Smyth 
Per.  Pel  ham 
Ri.  Deane 
Robert  Tichborne 
H.  Edwards 
Daniel  Blag  rave 
Oiven  Rowe 
William  Per  soy 
Adrian  Scrape 
James  Temple 


A.  Garland 
Edm.  Ludlowe 
Henry  Martcii 
Vincent  Potter 
Win.  Constable 
Rich.  Ingoldsby 
Will.  Cawley 
Jo  Barkstead 
Isaac  Ewer 
Johfi  Dixwell 
Valetititie  Wauton 


Symon  Mayne 
Tho.  Horton 
J.  Jones 
John  Brown 
Gilbert  Miliington 
George  Fleetwood 
J  A  lured 
Robert  Lilburne 
Will.  Gay 
Anth.  Staplcy 
Gre.  Norton 
Tho.  Challoner 


Tho.  Wogan 
John  Venne 

Gregory  Clement 
Jo.  Downcs 
Jiio.  Wayte 

Tho.  Scot 
Jo.  Careiv 
Miles  Corbet 


Cdarrant  to  €«calt  lUog 


J*  » .  J3  t<l-ft*^to'^ 


55^ 


SU^^y^.^ 


FROM  THE  ORIGINAL  DOC 


jarle^  a^  im.^.D.  1648. 


<»»4^ 


IN    THE    HOUSE    OF  LORDS. 


1651  JOHN  EVELYN  365 

14th  year,  out  of  his  minority  and  the  Queen  Regent's 
pupilage.  First  came  the  captan  of  the  King's  Aids,  at 
the  head  of  50,  richly  liveried;  next,  the  Queen-Mother's 
Light  Horse,  100,  the  lieutenant  being  all  over  covered 
with  embroidery  and  ribbons,  having  before  him  four 
trumpets  habited  in  black  velvet,  full  of  lace,  and  casques 
of  the  same.  Then,  the  King's  Light  Horse,  200,  richly 
habited,  with  four  trumpets  in  blue  velvet  embroidered 
with  gold,  before  whom  rode  the  Count  d'Olonne  coronet 
[cornet],  whose  belt  was  set  with  pearl.  Next  went  the 
grand  Pr^vot's  company  on  foot,  with  the  Pr^vot  on 
horseback;  after  them,  the  Swiss  in  black  velvet  toques, 
led  by  two  gallant  cavaliers  habited  in  scarlet-colored 
satin,  after  their  country  fashion,  which  is  very  fantastic ; 
he  had  in  his  cap  a  pennach  of  heron,  with  a  band  of 
diamonds,  and  about  him  twelve  little  Swiss  boys,  with 
halberds.  Then,  came  the  Aide  des  C^r ^monies;  next, 
the  grandees  of  court,  governors  of  places  and  lieuten- 
ants-general of  provinces,  magnificently  habited  and 
mounted;  among  whom  I  must  not  forget  the  Chevalier 
Paul,  famous  for  many  sea-fights  and  signal  exploits 
there,  because  it  is  said  he  had  never  been  an  Academist, 
and  yet  governed  a  verj'  unruly  horse,  and  besides  his 
rich  suit  his  Malta  Cross  was  esteemed  at  10,000  crowns. 
These  were  headed  by  two  trumpets,  and  the  whole 
troop,  covered  with  gold,  jewels,  and  rich  caparisons, 
were  followed  by  six  trumpets  in  blue  velvet  also,  pre- 
ceding as  many  heralds  in  blue  velvet  semie  with  fleurs- 
de-lis,  caduces  in  their  hands,  and  velvet  caps  on  their 
heads;  behind  them,  came  one  of  the  masters  of  the 
ceremonies ;  then,  divers  marshals  and  many  of  the  nobil- 
ity, exceeding  splendid;  behind  them  Count  d'Harcourt, 
grand  Ecuyer,  alone,  carrying  the  King's  sword  in  a 
scarf,  which  he  held  up  in  a  blue  sheath  studded  with  fleurs- 
de-lis;  his  horse  had  for  reins  two  scarfs  of  black  taffet. 
Then  came  abundance  of  footmen  and  pages  of  the  King, 
new-liveried  with  white  and  red  feathers ;  next,  the  garde 
du  corps  and  other  officers ;  and  lastly,  appeared  the  King 
himself  on  an  Isabella  barb,  on  which  a  housing  semee, 
with  crosses  of  the  Order  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  and  fleurs- 
de-lis;  the  King  himself,  like  a  young  Apollo,  was  in  a 
suit  so  covered  with  rich  embroidery,  that  one  could 
perceive  nothing  of  the  stuff   under    it;  he    went  almost 


266  DIARY   OF  paris 

the  whole  way  with  his  hat  in  hand,  saluting  the  ladies 
and  acclamators,  who  had  filled  the  windows  with  their 
beauty,  and  the  air  with  Vive  le  Roi.  He  seemed  a 
prince  of  a  grave  yet  sweet  countenance.  After  the 
King,  followed  divers  great  persons  of  the  Court,  ex- 
ceeding splendid,  also  his  esquires;  masters  of  horse,  on 
foot;  then  the  company  of  Exempts  des  Gardes^  and  six 
guards  of  Scotch.  Between  their  files  were  divers  princes 
of  the  blood,  dukes,  and  lords;  after  all  these,  the 
Queen's  guard  of  Swiss,  pages,  and  footmen;  then,  the 
Queen-Mother  herself,  in  a  rich  coach,  with  Monsieur  the 
King's  brother,  the  Duke  of  Orleans,  and  some  other 
lords  and  ladies  of  honor.  About  the  coach,  marched 
her  Exempts  des  Gardes:  then  the  company  of  the  King's 
Gens  d'armes,  well  mounted,  150,  with  four  trumpets, 
and  as  many  of  the  Queen's;  lastly,  an  innumerable 
company  of  coaches  full  of  ladies  and  gallants.  In  this 
equipage,  passed  the  monarch  to  the  Parliament,  hence- 
forth exercising  his  kingly  government. 

15th  September,  1651.  I  accompanied  Sir  Richard 
Browne,  my  father-in-law,  to  the  French  Court,  when  he 
had  a  favorable  audience  of  the  French  King,  and  the 
Queen,  his  mother ;  congratulating  the  one  on  his  coming 
to  the  exercise  of  his  royal  charge,  and  the  other's  pru- 
dent and  happy  administration  during  her  late  regency, 
desiring  both  to  preserve  the  same  amity  for  his  master, 
our  King,  as  they  had  hitherto  done,  which  they  both 
promised,  with  many  civil  expressions  and  words  of 
course  upon  such  occasions.  We  were  accompanied  both 
going  and  returning  by  the  Introductor  of  Ambassadors 
and  Aid  of  Ceremonies.  I  also  saw  the  audience  of 
Morosini,  the  Ambassador  of  Venice,  and  divers  other  Min- 
isters of  State  from  German  Princes,  Savoy,  etc.  Afterward 
I  took  a  walk  in  the  King's  gardens,  where  I  observed 
that  the  mall  goes  the  whole  square  there  of  next  the 
wall,  and  bends  with  an  angle  so  made  as  to  glance  the 
wall;  the  angle  is  of  stone.  There  is  a  basin  at  the  end 
of  the  garden  fed  by  a  noble  fountain  and  high  jetto. 
There  were  in  it  two  or  three  boats,  in  which  the  King 
now  and  then  rows  about.  In  another  part  is  a  complete 
fort,  made  with  bastions,  graft,  half-moons,  ravelins, 
and  furnished  with  great  guns  cast  on  purpose  to  instruct 
the  King  in  fortification. 


1651  JOHN   EVELYN  267 

226.  September,  1651.  Arrived  the  news  of  the  fatal 
battle  at  Worcester,  which  exceedingly  mortified  our  ex- 
pectations. 

28th  September,  1651.  I  was  shown  a  collection  of 
books  and  prints  made  for  the  Duke  of  York. 

ist  October,  165 1.  The  Dean  of  Peterborough  [Dr. 
Cosin]  preached  on  Job  xiii.,  verse  15,  encouraging  our 
trust  in  God  on  all  events  and  extremities,  and  for  estab- 
lishing and  comforting  some  ladies  of  great  quality,  who 
were  then  to  be  discharged  from  our  Queen-Mother's 
service  unless  they  would  go  over  to  the    Romish   Mass. 

The  Dean,  dining  this  day  at  our  house,  told  me  the 
occasion  of  publishing  those  Ofl&ces,  which  among  the 
Puritans  were  wont  to  be  called  Cosin's  cozening  Devo- 
tions, by  way  of  derision.  At  the  first  coming  of  the 
Queen  into  England,  she  and  her  French  ladies  were 
often  upbraiding  our  religion,  that  had  neither  appointed 
nor  set  forth  any  hours  of  prayer,  or  breveries,  by  which 
ladies  and  courtiers,  who  have  much  spare  time,  might 
edify  and  be  in  devotion,  as  they  had.  Our  Protestant 
ladies,  scandalized  it  seems  at  this,  moved  the  matter  to 
the  King;  whereupon  his  Majesty  presently  called  Bishop 
White  to  him  and  asked  his  thoughts  of  it,  and  whether 
there  might  not  be  found  some  forms  of  prayer  proper 
on  such  occasions,  collected  out  of  some  already  approved 
forms,  that  so  the  court  ladies  and  others  (who  spent 
much  time  in  trifling)  might  at  least  appear  as  devout, 
and  be  so  too,  as  the  new-come-over  French  ladies,  who 
took  occasion  to  reproach  our  want  of  zeal  and  religion. 
On  which,  the  Bishop  told  his  Majesty  that  it  might  be 
done  easily,  and  was  very  necessary;  whereupon  the 
King  commanded  him  to  employ  some  person  of  the 
clergy  to  compile  such  a  Work,  and  presently  the  Bishop 
naming  Dr.  Cosin,  the  King  enjoined  him  to  charge  the 
Doctor  in  his  name  to  set  about  it  immediately.  This 
the  Dean  told  me  he  did;  and  three  months  after,  bring- 
ing the  book  to  the  King,  he  commanded  the  Bishop  of 
London  to  read  it  over,  and  make  his  report ;  this  was  so 
well  liked,  that  (contrary  to  former  custom  of  doing  it 
by  a  chaplain)  he  would  needs  give  it  an  imprimatur 
under  his  own  hand.  Upon  this  there  were  at  first  only 
200  copies  printed;  nor,  said  he,  was  there  anything  in 
the  whole  book  of  my  own  composure,  nor  did  I  set  any 


268  DIARY  OF  paris 

name  as  author  to  it,  but  those  necessary  prefaces,  etc., 
out  of  the  Fathers,  touching  the  times  and  seasons  of 
prayer;  all  the  rest  being  entirely  translated  and  col- 
lected out  of  an  Office  published  by  authority  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  anno  1560,  and  our  own  Liturgy.  This  I 
rather  mention  to  justify  that  industrious  and  pious 
Dean,  who  had  exceedingly  suffered  by  it,  as  if  he  had 
done  it  of  his  own  head  to  introduce  Popery,  from  which 
no  man  was  more  averse,  and  one  who  in  this  time  of 
temptation  and  apostacy  held  and  confirmed  many  to  our 
Church. 

29th  October,  165 1.  Came  news  and  letters  to  the 
Queen  and  Sir  Richard  Browne  (who  was  the  first  that  had 
intelligence  of  it)  of  his  Majesty's  miraculous  escape  after 
the  fight  at  Worcester;  which  exceedingly  rejoiced  us. 

7th  November,  165 1.  I  visited  Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  with 
whom  I  had  much  discourse  on  chemical  matters.  I 
showed  him  a  particular  way  of  extracting  oil  of  sulphur, 
and  he  gave  me  a  certain  powder  with  which  he  affirmed 
that  he  had  fixed  0  (mercury)  before  the  late  King.  He 
advised  me  to  try  and  digest  a  little  better,  and  gave  me  a 
water  which  he  said  was  only  rain  water  of  the  autumnal 
equinox,  exceedingly  rectified,  very  volatile ;  it  had  a  taste 
of  a  strong  vitriolic,  and  smelt  like  aqua  fortis.  He  in- 
tended it  for  a  dissolvent  of  calx  of  gold;  but  the  truth 
is.  Sir  Kenelm  was  an  arrant  mountebank.  Came  news 
of  the  gallant  Earl  of  Derby's  execution  by  the  rebels. 

14th  November,  1651.  Dr.  Clare  preached  on  Genesis 
xxviii.,  verses  20,  21,  22,  upon  Jacob's  vow,  which  he 
appositely  applied,  it  being  the  first  Sunday  his  Majesty 
came  to  chapel  after  his  escape.  I  went,  in  the  after- 
noon, to  visit  the  Earl  of  Norwich;  he  lay  at  the  Lord 
of  Aubigny's. 

i6th  November,  165 1.  Visited  Dean  Stewart,  who  had 
been  sick  about  two  days;  when,  going  up  to  his  lodg- 
ing, I  found  him  dead;  which  affected  me  much,  as  be- 
sides his  particular  affection  and  love  to  me,  he  was  of 
incomparable  parts  and  great  learning,  of  exemplary  life, 
and  a  very  great  loss  to  the  whole  church.  He  was 
buried  the  next  day  with  all  our  church's  ceremonies, 
many  noble  persons  accompanying  the  corpse. 

17th  November,  165 1.  I  went  to  congratulate  the  mar- 
riage of  Mrs.  Gardner,  maid  of  honor,  lately  married  to 


1651  JOHN   EVELYN  269 

that  odd  person,  Sir  Henry  Wood:  but  riches  do  many 
things. 

To  see  Monsieur  Febur's  course  of  chemistry,  where  I 
found  Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  and  divers  curious  persons  of 
learning  and  quality.  It  was  his  first  opening  the  course 
and  preliminaries,  in  order  to  operations. 

ist  December,  1651.  I  now  resolved  to  return  to 
England. 

3d  December,  1651.  Sir  Lewis  Dives  dined  with  us, 
who  relating  some  of  his  adventures,  showed  me  divers 
pieces  of  broad  gold,  which,  being  in  his  pocket  in  a 
fight,  preserved  his  life  by  receiving  a  musket  bullet  on 
them,  which  deadened  its  violence,  so  that  it  went  no 
further ;  but  made  such  a  stroke  on  the  gold  as  fixed  the 
impressions  upon  one  another,  battering  and  bending 
several  of  them ;  the  bullet  itself  was  flatted,  and  retained 
on  it  the  color  of  the  gold.  He  assured  us  that  of  a 
hundred  of  them,  which  it  seems  he  then  had  in  his 
pocket,  not  one  escaped  without  some  blemish.  He 
affirmed  that  his  being  protected  by  a  Neapolitan  Prince, 
who  connived  at  his  bringing  some  horses  into  France, 
contrary  to  the  order  of  the  Viceroy,  by  assistance  of 
some  banditti,  was  the  occasion  of  a  difference  between 
those  great  men,  and  consequently  of  the  late  civil  war 
in  that  kingdom,  the  Viceroy  having  killed  the  Prince 
standing  on  his  defense  at  his  own  castle.  He  told  me 
that  the  second  time  of  the  Scots  coming  into  England, 
the  King  was  six  times  their  number,  and  might  easily 
have  beaten  them;  but  was  betrayed,  as  were  all  other 
his  designs  and  counsels,  by  some,  even  of  his  bed- 
chamber, meaning  M.  Hamilton,  who  copied  Montrose's 
letters  from  time  to  time  when  his  Majesty    was   asleep. 

nth  December,  1651.  Came  to  visit  me,  Mr.  Obadiah 
Walker,  of  University  College,  with  his  two  pupils,  the 
sons  of  my  worthy  friend,  Henry  Hyldiard,  Esq.,  whom 
I  had  recommended  to  his  care. 

2 1  St  December,  165 1.  Came  to  visit  my  wife,  Mrs, 
Lane,*  the  lady  who  conveyed  the  King  to  the  seaside 
at  his  escape  from  Worcester.      Mr.   John    Cosin,   son   of 

*  Sister  of  Colonel  Lane,  an  English  officer  in  the  army  of  Charles  II. 
dispersed  at  the  battle  of  Worcester.  She  assisted  the  King  in  effecting 
his  escape  after  that  battle,  his  Majesty  traveling  with  her  disguised  as 
her  serving  man,  William  Jackson. 


270  DIARY  OP  PARIS 

the  Dean,  debauched  by  the  priests,  wrote  a  letter  to 
me  to  mediate  for  him  with  his  father,  I  prepared  for 
my  last  journey,  being  now  resolved  to  leave  France 
altogether. 

25th  December,  1651.  The  King  and  Duke  received 
the  Sacrament  first  by  themselves,  the  Lords  Byron  and 
Wilmot  holding  the  long  towel  all  along  the  altar. 

26th  December,  1651.  Came  news  of  the  death  of  that 
rebel,  Ireton. 

31st  December,  165 1.  Preached  Dr.  Wolley,  after  which 
was  celebrated  the  Holy  Communion,  which  I  received 
also,  preparative  of  my  journey,  being  now  resolved  to 
leave  France  altogether,  and  to  return  God  Almighty 
thanks  for  His  gracious  protection  of  me  this  past 
year. 

2d  January,  1651-52.  News  of  my  sister  Glanville's 
death  in  childbed,  which  exceedingly  affected  me. 

I  went  to  one  Mark  Antonio,  an  incomparable  artist  in 
enameling.  He  wrought  by  the  lamp  figures  in  boss,  of 
a  large  size,  even  to  the  life,  so  that  nothing  could  be 
better  molded.  He  told  us  stories  of  a  Genoese  jeweler, 
who  had  the  great  arcanum,  and  had  made  projection 
before  him  several  times.  He  met  him  at  Cyprus  trav- 
eling into  Egypt;  in  his  return  from  whence,  he  died  at 
sea,  and  the  secret  with  him,  that  else  he  had  promised 
to  have  left  it  to  him ;  that  all  his  effects  were  seized  on, 
and  dissipated  by  the  Greeks  in  the  vessel,  to  an  immense 
value.  He  also  affirmed,  that  being  in  a  goldsmith's  shop 
at  Amsterdam,  a  person  of  very  low  stature  came  in,  and 
desired  the  goldsmith  to  melt  him  a  pound  of  lead ;  which 
done,  he  unscrewed  the  pommel  of  his  sword,  and  taking 
out  of  a  little  box  a  small  quantity  of  powder,  casting  it 
into  the  crucible,  poured  an  ingot  out,  which  when  cold 
he  took  up,  saying,  *  Sir,  you  will  be  paid  for  your  lead 
in  the  crucible,*  and  so  went  out  immediately.  When  he 
was  gone  the  goldsmith  found  four  ounces  of  good  gold  in 
it;  but  could  never  set  eye  again  on  the  little  man,  though 
he  sought  all  the  city  for  him.  Antonio  asserted  this 
with  great  obtestation;  nor  know  I  what  to  think  of  it, 
there  are  so  many  impostors  and  people  who  love  to  tell 
strange  stories,  as  this  artist  did,  who  had  been  a  great 
rover,  and  spoke  ten  different  languages. 

13th  January,   1652.     I  took  leave  of  Mr.  Waller,  who, 


1651-52  JOHN   EVELYN  271 

having  been  proscribed  by  the  rebels,  had  obtained  of 
them  permission  to  return,  was  going  to  England. 

29th  Januar}',  1652.  Abundance  of  my  French  and  Eng- 
lish friends  and  some  Germans  came  to  take  leave  of  me, 
and  I  set  out  in  a  coach  for  Calais,  in  an  exceedingly  hard 
frost  which  had  continued  for  some  time.  We  got  that 
night  to  Beaumont;  30th,  to  Beauvais;  31st,  we  found  the 
ways  very  deep  with  snow,  and  it  was  exceedingly  cold; 
dined  at  Pois ;  lay  at  Pem^e,  a  miserable  cottage  of  miser- 
able people  in  a  wood,  wholly  unfurnished,  but  in  a  little 
time  we  had  sorry  beds  and  some  provision,  which  they 
told  me  they  hid  in  the  wood  for  fear  of  the  frontier 
enemy,  the  garrisons  near  them  continually  plundering 
what  they  had.  They  were  often  infested  with  wolves. 
I  cannot  remember  that  I  ever  saw  more  miserable 
creatures. 

ist  February,  1652.  I  dined  at  Abbeville;  2d,  dined  at 
Montreuil,  lay  at  Boulogne ;  3d,  came  to  Calais,  by  eleven 
in  the  morning ;  I  thought  to  have  embarked  in  the  even- 
ing, but,  for  fear  of  pirates  plying  near  the  coast,  I  dared 
not  trust  our  small  vessel,  and  stayed  till  Monday  follow- 
ing, when  two  or  three  lusty  vessels  were  to  depart. 

I  brought  with  me  from  Paris  Mr.  Christopher  Wase, 
sometime  before  made  to  resign  his  Fellowship  in  King's 
College,  Cambridge,  because  he  would  not  take  the  Cove- 
nant. He  had  been  a  soldier  in  Flanders,  and  came 
miserable  to  Paris.  From  his  excellent  learning,  and 
some  relation  he  had  to  Sir  R.  Browne,  I  bore  his  charges 
into  England,  and  clad  and  provided  for  him,  till  he 
should  find  some  better  condition ;  and  he  was  worthy  of 
it.  There  came  with  us  also  Captain  Griffith,  Mr.  Tyrell, 
brother  to  Sir  Timothy  Tyrell,  of  Shotover  (near  Oxford). 

At  Calais,  I  dined  with  my  Lord  Wentworth,  and  met 
with  Mr.  Heath,  Sir  Richard  Lloyd,  Captain  Paine,  and 
divers  of  our  banished  friends,  of  whom  understanding 
that  the  Count  de  la  Strade,  Governor  of  Dunkirk,  was 
in  the  town,  who  had  bought  my  wife's  picture,  taken  by 
pirates  at  sea  the  year  before  (my  wife  having  sent  it 
for  me  in  England),  as  my  Lord  of  Norwich  had  informed 
me  at  Paris,  I  made  my  address  to  him,  who  frankly  told 
me  that  he  had  such  a  picture  in  his  own  bedchamber 
among  other  ladies,  and  how  he  came  by  it;  seeming 
well  pleased  that  it  was  his  fortune  to  preserve  it  for  me, 


47i  DIARY    OP  DEPTFORD 

and  he  generously  promised  to  send  it  to  any  friend  I 
had  at  Dover ;  I  mentioned  a  French  merchant  there  and 
so  took  my  leave. 

6th  February,  1652.  I  embarked  early  in  the  packet 
boat,  but  put  my  goods  in  a  stouter  vessel.  It  was  calm, 
so  that  we  got  not  to  Dover  till  eight  at  night.  I  took 
horse  for  Canterbury,  and  lay  at  Rochester;  next  day,  to 
Gravesend,  took  a  pair  of  oars,  and  landed  at  Sayes  Court, 
where  I  stayed  three  days  to  refresh,  and  look  after  my 
packet  and  goods,  sent  by  a  stouter  vessel.  I  went  to 
visit  my  cousin,  Richard  Fanshawe,  and  divers  other 
friends. 

6th  March,  1652.  Saw  the  magnificent  funeral  of  that 
arch-rebel,  Ireton,  carried  in  pomp  from  Somerset  House 
to  Westminster,  accompanied  with  divers  regiments  of 
soldiers,  horse  and  foot;  then  marched  the  mourners, 
Greneral  Cromwell  (his  father-in-law),  his  mock-parlia- 
ment-men, officers,  and  forty  poor  men  in  gowns,  three 
led  horses  in  housings  of  black  cloth,  two  led  in  black 
velvet,  and  his  charging  horse,  all  covered  over  with  em- 
broidery and  gold,  on  crimson  velvet ;  then  the  guidons,  en- 
signs, four  heralds,  carrying  the  arms  of  the  State  (as 
they  called  it),  namely,  the  red  cross  and  Ireland,  with  the 
casque,  wreath,  sword,  spurs,  etc. ;  next,  a  chariot  can- 
opied of  black  velvet,  and  six  horses,  in  which  was  the 
corpse;  the  pall  held  up  by  the  mourners  on  foot;  the 
mace  and  sword,  with  other  marks  of  his  charge  in  Ire- 
land (where  he  died  of  the  plague),  carried  before  in 
black  scarfs.  Thus,  in  a  grave  pace,  drums  covered  with 
cloth,  soldiers  reversing  their  arms,  they  proceeded 
through  the  streets  in  a  very  solemn  manner.  This  Ire- 
ton  was  a  stout  rebel,  and  had  been  very  bloody  to  the 
King's  party,  witness  his  severity  at  Colchester,  when  in 
cold  blood  he  put  to  death  those  gallant  gentlemen,  Sir 
Charles  Lucas  and  Sir  George  Lisle.  My  cousin,  R. 
Fanshawe,  came  to  visit  me,  and  informed  me  of  many 
considerable  affairs.  Sir  Henry  Herbert  presented  me 
with  his  brother,  my  Lord  Cherbury's  book,  '-'•De  Veritate.  * 

9th  March,  1652.  I  went  to  Deptford,  where  I  made 
preparation  for  my  settlement,  no  more  intending  to  go 
out  of  England,  but  endeavor  a  settled  life,  either  in 
this  or  some  other  place,  there  being  now  so  little 
appearance  of  any  change  for  the  better,  all  being  entirely 


1654  JOHN  EVELYN  273 

in  the  rebels'  hands;  and  this  particular  habitation  and 
the  estate  contiguous  to  it  (belonging  to  my  father-in- 
law,  actually  in  his  Majesty's  service)  very  much  suffer- 
ing for  want  of  some  friend  to  rescue  it  out  of  the  power 
of  the  usurpers,  so  as  to  preserve  our  interest,  and  take 
some  care  of  my  other  concerns,  by  the  advice  and 
endeavor  of  my  friends  I  was  advised  to  reside  in  it, 
and  compound  with  the  soldiers.  This  I  was  besides 
authorized  by  his  Majesty  to  do,  and  encouraged  with 
a  promise  that  what  was  in  lease  from  the  Crown,  if 
ever  it  pleased  God  to  restore  him,  he  would  secure 
to  us  in  fee  farm.  I  had  also  addresses  and  cyphers,  to 
correspond  with  his  Majesty  and  Ministers  abroad:  upon 
all  which  inducements,  I  was  persuaded  to  settle  hence- 
forth in  England,  having  now  run  about  the  world,  most 
part  out  of  my  own  country,  near  ten  years.  I  therefore 
now  likewise  meditated  sending  over  for  my  wife,  whom 
as  yet  I  had  left  at  Paris. 

14th  March,  1652.  I  went  to  Lewisham,  where  I  heard 
an  honest  sermon  on  i  Cor,  ii.  5-7,  being  the  first  Sun- 
day I  had  been  at  church  since  my  return,  it  being  now 
a  rare  thing  to  find  a  priest  of  the  Church  of  England 
in  a  parish  pulpit,  most  of  which  were  filled  with  Inde- 
pendents and    Fanatics. 

15th  March,  1652.  I  saw  the  *  Diamond**  and  "Ruby** 
launched  in  the  Dock  at  Deptford,  carrying  forty-eight 
brass  cannon  each;  Cromwell  and  his  grandees  present, 
with  great  acclamations. 

i8th  March,  1652.  That  worthy  divine,  Mr.  Owen,  of 
Eltham,  a  sequestered  person,  came  to  visit  me. 

19th  March,  1652.  Invited  by  Lady  Gerrard,  I  went 
to  London,  where  we  had  a  great  supper;  all  the  vessels, 
which  were  innumerable,  were  of  porcelain,  she  having 
the  most  ample  and  richest  collection  of  that  curiosity  in 
England. 

2  2d  March,  1652.  I  went  with  my  brother  Evelyn  to 
Wotton,  to  give  him  what  directions  I  was  able  about 
his  garden,  which  he  was  now  desirous  to  put  into  some 
form;  but  for  which  he  was  to  remove  a  mountain  over- 
grown with  huge  trees  and  thicket,  with  a  moat  within 
ten  yards  of  the  house.  This  my  brother  immediately 
attempted,  and  that  without  great  cost,  for  more  than  a 
hundred  yards  south,  by  digging  down  the  mountain, 
18 


274  DIARY    OF  London 

and  flinging  it  into  a  rapid  stream;  it  not  only  carried 
away  the  sand,  etc.,  but  filled  up  the  moat,  and  leveled 
that  noble  area,  where  now  the  garden  and  fountain  is. 
The  first  occasion  of  my  brother  making  this  alteration 
was  my  building  the  little  retiring  place  between  the 
great  wood  eastward  next  the  meadow,  where,  some  time 
after  my  father's  death,  I  made  a  triangular  pond,  or 
little  stew,  with  an  artificial  rock  after  my  coming  out 
of  Flanders. 

29th  March,  1652.  I  heard  that  excellent  prelate,  the 
primate  of  Ireland  (Jacobus  Usher)  preach  in  Lin- 
coln's Inn,  on  Heb.  iv.  16,  encouragping  of  penitent  sin- 
ners. 

5th  April,  1652.  My  brother  George  brought  to  Sayes 
Court  Cromwells  Act  of  Oblivion  to  all  that  would  sub- 
mit to  the  Government. 

13th  April,  1652.  News  was  brought  me  that  Lady 
Cotton,  my  brother  George's  wife  was  delivered  of  a  son. 

I  was  moved  by  a  letter  out  of  France  to  publish  the 
letter  which  some  time  since  I  sent  to  Dean  Cosin's  pros- 
elyted son;  but  I  did  not  conceive  it  convenient,  for 
fear  of  displeasing  her  Majesty,  the  Queen. 

15th  April,  1652.  I  wrote  to  the  Dean,  touching  my 
buying  his  library,  which  was  one  of  the  choicest  collec- 
tions of  any  private  person  in  England. 

The  Count  de  Strade  most  generously  and  handsomely 
sent  me  the  picture  of  my  wife  from  Dunkirk,  in  a  large 
tin  case  without  any  charge.  It  is  of  Mr.  Bourdon,  and 
is  that  which  has  the  dog  in  it,  and  is  to  the  knees,  but 
it  has  been  somewhat  spoiled  by  washing  it  ignorantly 
with  soapsuds. 

25th  April,  1652.  I  went  to  visit  Alderman  Kendrick, 
a  fanatic  Lord  Mayor,  who  had  married  a  relation  of  ours, 
where  I  met  with  a  Captain  who  had  been  thirteen  times 
to  the  East  Indies. 

29th  April,  1652.  Was  that  celebrated  eclipse  of  the 
sun,  so  much  threatened  by  the  astrologers,  and  which 
had  so  exceedingly  alarmed  the  whole  nation  that  hardly 
any  one  would  work,  nor  stir  out  of  their  houses.  So 
ridiculously  were  they  abused  by  knavish  and  ignorant 
star-gazers. 

We  went  this  afternoon  to  see  the  Qtieen's  house  at 
Greenwich,  now  given  by  the  rebels  to  Bulstrode  White- 


1652  JOHN  EVELYN  275 

locke,  one  of  their  unhappy  counselors,  and  keeper  of 
pretended  liberties. 

loth  May,  1652.  Passing  by  Smithfield,  I  saw  a  miser- 
able creature  burning,  who  had  murdered  her  husband, 
I  went  to  see  some  workmanship  of  that  admirable  artist, 
Reeves,  famous  for  perspective,  and  turning  curiosities  in 
ivory. 

29th  May,  1652.  I  went  to  give  order  about  a  coach 
to  be  made  against  my  wife's  coming,  being  my  first 
coach,  the  pattern  whereof  I  brought  out  of  Paris. 

30th  May,  1652.  I  went  to  obtain  of  my  Lord  Devon- 
'shire  that  my  nephew,  George,  might  be  brought  up 
with  my  young  Lord,  his  son,  to  whom  I  was  recom- 
mending Mr.  Wase.  I  also  inspected  the  manner  of 
camleting  silk  and  grograms  at  one  Monsieur  La  Dories 
in  Moor-fields,  and  thence  to  Colonel  Morley,  one  of  their 
Council  of  State,  as  then  called,  who  had  been  my  school- 
fellow, to  request  a  pass  for  my  wife's  safe  landing,  and 
the  goods  she  was  to  bring  with  her  out  of  France ;  which 
he  courteously  granted,  and  did  me  many  other  kind- 
nesses, that  was  a  great  matter  in  those  days. 

In  the  afternoon,  at  Charlton  church,  where  I  heard  a 
Rabinical  sermon.  Here  is  a  fair  monument  in  black 
marble  of  Sir  Adam  Newton,  who  built  that  fair  house 
near  it  for  Prince  Henry,  and  where  my  noble  friend. 
Sir  Henry  Newton,  succeeded  him. 

3d  June,  1652.  I  received  a  letter  from  Colonel  Mor- 
ley to  the  Magistrates  and  Searchers  at  Rye,  to  assist 
my  wife  at  her  landing,  and  show  her  all  civility. 

4th  June,  1652.  I  set  out  to  meet  her  now  on  her 
journey  from  Paris,  after  she  had  obtained  leave  to  come 
out  of  that  city,  which  had  now  been  besieged  some 
time  by  the  Prince  of  Condi's  army  in  the  time  of  the 
rebellion,  and  after  she  had  been  now  near  twelve  years 
from  her  own  country,  that  is,  since  five  years  of  age, 
at  which  time  she  went  over.  I  went  to  Rye  to  meet 
her,  where  was  an  embargo  on  occasion  of  the  late  con- 
flict with  the  Holland  fleet,  the  two  nations  being  now 
in  war,  and  which  made  sailing  very  unsafe. 

On  Whit  Sunday,  I  went  to  the  church  (which  is  a  very 
fair  one),  and  heard  one  of  the  canters,  who  dismissed 
the  assembly  rudely,  and  without  any  blessing.  Here  I 
stayed  till   the    loth  with  no. small  impatience,  when  I 


2y6  DIARY  OP  tunbridge 

walked  over  to  survey  the  ruins  of  Winchelsea,  that  an- 
cient cinq-port,  which  by  the  remains  and  ruins  of  ancient 
streets  and  public  structures,  discovers  it  to  have  been 
formerly  a  considerable  and  large  city.  There  are  to  be 
seen  vast  caves  and  vaults,  walls  and  towers,  ruins  of 
monasteries  and  of  a  sumptuous  church,  in  which  are 
some  handsome  monuments,  especially  of  the  Templars, 
buried  just  in  the  manner  of  those  in  the  Temple  at 
London.  This  place  being  now  all  in  rubbish,  and  a  few 
despicable  hovels  and  cottages  only  standing,  hath  yet  a 
Mayor.  The  sea,  which  formerly  rendered  it  a  rich  and 
commodious  port,  has  now  forsaken  it. 

nth  June,  1652.  About  four  in  the  afternoon,  being 
at  bowls  on  the  green,  we  discovered  a  vessel  which 
proved  to  be  that  in  which  my  wife  was,  and  which  got 
into  the  harbor  about  eight  that  evening,  to  my  no  small 
joy.  They  had  been  three  days  at  sea,  and  escaped  the 
Dutch  fleet,  through  which  they  passed,  taken  for  fishers, 
which  was  great  good  fortune,  there  being  seventeen 
bales  of  furniture  and  other  rich  plunder,  which  I  bless 
God  came  all  safe  to  land,  together  with  my  wife,  and 
my  Lady  Browne,  her  mother,  who  accompanied  her. 
My  wife  being  discomposed  by  having  been  so  long  at 
sea,  we  set  not  forth  toward  home  till  the  14th,  when, 
hearing  the  smallpox  was  very  rife  in  and  about  London, 
and  Lady  Browne  having  a  desire  to  drink  Tunbridge 
waters,  I  carried  them  thither,  and  stayed  in  a  very 
sweet  place,  private  and  refreshing,  and  took  the  waters 
myself  till  the  23d,  when  I  went  to  prepare  for  their 
reception,  leaving  them  for  the  present  in  their  little 
cottage  by  the  Wells. 

The  weather  being  hot,  and  having  sent  my  man  on 
before,  I  rode  negligently  under  favor  of  the  shade,  till, 
within  three  miles  of  Bromley,  at  a  place  called  the 
Procession  Oak,  two  cutthroats  started  out,  and  striking 
with  long  staves  at  the  horse,  and  taking  hold  of  the 
reins,  threw  me  down,  took  my  sword,  and  hauled  me 
into  a  deep  thicket,  some  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  high- 
way, where  they  might  securely  rob  me,  as  they  soon 
did.  What  they  got  of  money,  was  not  considerable, 
but  they  took  two  rings,  the  one  an  emerald  with  dia- 
monds, the  other  an  onyx,  and  a  pair  of  buckles  set 
with   rubies   and    diamonds,    which    were   of  value,  and 


1652  JOHN   EVELYN  277 

after  all  bound  my  hands  behind  me,  and  my  feet,  hav- 
ing before  pulled  off  my  boots;  they  then  set  me  up 
against  an  oak,  with  most  bloody  threats  to  cut  my  throat 
if  I  offered  to  cry  out,  or  make  any  noise;  for  they 
should  be  within  hearing,  I  not  being  the  person  they 
looked  for.  I  told  them  that  if  they  had  not  basely  sur- 
prised me  they  should  not  have  had  so  easy  a  prize, 
and  that  it  would  teach  me  never  to  ride  near  a  hedge, 
since,  had  I  been  in  the  midway,  they  dared  not  have 
adventured  on  me;  at  which  they  cocked  their  pistols, 
and  told  me  they  had  long  guns,  too,  and  were  fourteen 
companions.  I  begged  for  my  onyx,  and  told  them  it 
being  engraved  with  my  arms  would  betray  them;  but 
nothing  prevailed.  My  horse's  bridle  they  slipped,  and 
searched  the  saddle,  which  they  pulled  off,  but  let  the 
horse  graze,  and  then  turning  again  bridled  him  and 
tied  him  to  a  tree,  yet  so  as  he  might  graze,  and  thus 
left  me  bound.  My  horse  was  perhaps  not  taken,  be- 
cause he  was  marked  and  cropped  on  both  ears,  and 
well  known  on  that  road.  Left  in  this  manner,  griev- 
ously was  I  tormented  with  flies,  ants,  and  the  sun,  nor 
was  my  anxiety  little  how  I  should  get  loose  in  that 
solitary  place,  where  I  could  neither  hear  nor  see  any 
creature  but  my  poor  horse  and  a  few  sheep  straggling 
in  the  copse. 

After  near  two  hours  attempting,  I  got  my  hands  to  turn 
palm  to  palm,  having  been  tied  back  to  back,  and  then  it  was 
long  before  I  could  slip  the  cord  over  my  wrists  to 
my  thumb,  which  at  last  I  did,  and  then  soon  un- 
bound my  feet,  and  saddling  my  horse  and  roaming 
a  while  about,  I  at  last  perceived  dust  to  rise,  and 
soon  after  heard  the  rattling  of  a  cart,  toward  which 
I  made,  and,  by  the  help  of  two  countrymen,  I  got 
back  into  the  highway.  I  rode  to  Colonel  Blount's,  a 
great  justiciary  of  the  times,  who  sent  out  hue  and 
cry  immediately.  The  next  morning,  sore  as  my  wrists 
and  arms  were,  I  went  to  London,  and  got  500  tickets 
printed  and  dispersed  by  an  officer  of  Goldsmiths'  Hall, 
and  within  two  days  had  tidings  of  all  I  had  lost,  ex- 
cept my  sword,  which  had  a  silver  hilt,  and  some  trifles. 
The  rogues  had  pawned  one  of  my  rings  for  a  trifle 
to  a  goldsmith's  servant,  before  the  tickets  came  to 
the    shop,    by    which    means   they    escaped;    the    other 


27«  DIARY    OF  PENSHURST 

ring  was  bought  by  a  victualer,  who  brought  it  to  a 
goldsmith,  but  he  having  seen  the  ticket  seized  the 
man.  I  afterward  discharged  him  on  his  protestation 
of  innocence.  Thus  did  God  deliver  me  from  these 
villains,  and  not  only  so,  but  restored  what  they  took, 
as  twice  before  he  had  graciously  done,  both  at  sea  and 
land,  I  mean  when  I  had  been  robbed  by  pirates,  and 
was  in  danger  of  a  considerable  loss  at  Amsterdam;  for 
which,  and  many,  many  signal  preservations,  I  am  ex- 
tremely obliged  to  give  thanks  to  God  my  Savior. 

25th  June,  1652.  After  a  drought  of  near  four  months, 
there  fell  so  violent  a  tempest  of  hail,  rain,  wind,  thun- 
der, and  lightning,  as  no  man  had  seen  the  like  in  his 
age;  the  hail  being  in  some  places  four  or  five  inches 
about,  broke  all  glass  about  London,  especially  at  Dept- 
ford,  and  more  at   Greenwich. 

29th  June,  1652.  I  returned  to  Tunbridge,  and  again 
drank  the  water,  till  loth  of  July. 

We  went  to  see  the  house  of  my  Lord  Clanrickarde 
at  Summer  hill,  near  Tunbridge  (now  given  to  that 
villain,  Bradshawe,  who  condemned  the  King).  'Tis 
situated  on  an  eminent  hill,  with  a  park ;  but  has  nothing 
else  extraordinary. 

4th  July,  1652.  I  heard  a  sermon  at  Mr.  Packer's 
chapel  at  Groomsbridge,  a  pretty  melancholy  seat,  well 
wooded  and  watered.  In  this  house  was  one  of  the 
French  kings*  kept  prisoner.  The  chapel  was  built 
by  Mr.  Packer's  father,  in  remembrance  of  King  Charles 
the   First's   safe  return   out  of   Spain. 

9th  July,  1652.  We  went  to  see  Penshurst,  the  Earl 
of  Leicester's,  famous  once  for  its  gardens  and  excel- 
lent fruit,  and  for  the  noble  conversation  which  was 
wont  to  meet  there,  celebrated  by  that  illustrious  per- 
son. Sir  Philip  Sidney,  who  there  composed  divers  of 
his  pieces.  It  stands  in  a  park,  is  finely  watered,  and 
was  now  full  of  company,  on  the  marriage  of  my  old 
fellow-collegiate,  Mr.  Robert  Smith,  who  married  my 
Lady  Dorothy  Sidney,  widow  of  the  Earl  of  Sunderland. 

One  of  the  men  who  robbed  me  was  taken;  I  was  ac- 
cordingly summoned  to  appear  against  him;  and,  on  the 

•The  Duke  of  Orleans,  taken  at  the  battle  of  Agpincourt,  4  Hen. 
v.,  by  Richard  Waller,  then  owner  of  this  place.  See  Hasted'3 
•  Kent,»  vol.  i.,  p.  431. 


i6S2  JOHN   EVELYN  279 

lath,  was  in  Westminster  Hall,  but  not  being  bound 
over,  nor  willing  to  hang  the  fellow,  I  did  not  appear, 
coming  only  to  save  a  friend's  bail;  but  the  bill  being 
found,  he  was  turned  over  to  the  Old  Bailey.  In  the 
meantime,  I  received  a  petition  from  the  prisoner,  whose 
father  I  understood  was  an  honest  old  farmer  in  Kent. 
He  was  charged,  with  other  crimes,  and  condemned,  but 
reprieved.  I  heard  afterward  that,  had  it  not  been  for 
his  companion,  a  younger  man,  he  would  probably  have 
killed  me.  He  was  afterward  charged  with  some  other 
crime,  but,  refusing  to  plead,  was  pressed  to  death. 

23d  July,  1652.  Came  my  old  friend,  Mr.  Spencer,  to 
visit  me. 

30th  July,  1652.  I  took  advice  about  purchasing  Sir 
Richard's  [  Browne  ]  interest  of  those  who  had  bought 
Sayes  Court. 

ist  August,  1652.  Came  old  Jerome  Lennier,  of  Green- 
wich, a  man  skilled  in  painting  and  music,  and  another 
rare  musician,  called  Mell.  I  went  to  see  his  collection 
of  pictures,  especially  those  of  Julio  Romano,  which  surely 
had  been  the  King's,  and  an  Egyptian  figure,  etc.  There 
were  also  excellent  things  of  Polydore,  Guido,  Raphael, 
and  Tintoretto.  Lennier  had  been  a  domestic  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  and  showed  me  her  head,  an  intaglio  in  a  rare 
sardonyx,  cut  by  a  famous  Italian,  which  he  assured  me 
was  exceedingly  like  her. 

24th  August,  1652.  My  first  child,  a  son,  was  bom 
precisely  at  one  o'clock. 

2d  September,  1652.  Mr.  Owen,  the  sequestered  divine, 
of  Eltham,  christened  my  son  by  the  name  of  Rich- 
ard. 

2 2d  September,  1652.  I  went  to  Woodcott,  where  Lady 
Browne  was  taken  with  scarlet  fever,  and  died.  She 
was  carried  to  Deptford,  and  interred  in  the  church  near 
Sir  Richard's  relations  with  all  decent  ceremonies,  and 
according  to  the  church-ofl!ice,  for  which  I  obtained  per- 
mission, after  it  had  not  been  used  in  that  church  for 
seven  years.  Thus  ended  an  excellent  and  virtuous  lady, 
universally  lamented,  having  been  so  obliging  on  all  oc- 
casions to  those  who  continually  frequented  her  house  in 
Paris,  which  was  not  only  an  hospital,  but  an  asylum  to 
all  our  persecuted  and  afflicted  countrymen,  during  eleven 
years'  residence  there  in  that  honorable  situation. 


28o  DIARY  OF  saves  court 

25th  September,  1652.  I  went  to  see  Dr.  Mason's  house, 
so  famous  for  the  prospect  (for  the  house  is  a  wretched 
one)  and  description  of  Barclay's  *-*-  Icon  Animarum?^* 

5th  November,  1652.  To  London,  to  visit  some  friends, 
but  the  insolences  were  so  great  in  the  streets  that  I 
could  not  return  till  the  next  day. 

Dr.  Scarborough  was  instant  with  me  to  give  the  Tables 
of  Veins  and  Arteries  to  the  College  of  Physicians,  pre- 
tending he  would  not  only  read  upon  them,  but  celebrate 
my  curiosity  as  being  the  first  who  caused  them  to  be 
completed  in  that  manner,  and  with,  that  cost ;  but  I  was 
not  so  willing  yet  to  part  with  them,  as  to  lend  them  to 
the  College  during  their  anatomical  lectures;  which  I  did 
accordingly. 

2  2d  November,  1652.  I  went  to  London,  where  was 
proposed  to  me  the  promoting  that  great  work  (since 
accomplished  by  Dr.  Walton,  Bishop  of  Chester),  *^Biblia 
Polyglot t a, ^'*  by  Mr.   Pierson,  that  most  learned  divine. 

25th  December,  1652.  Christmas  day,  no  sermon  any- 
where, no  church  being  permitted  to  be  open,  so  observed 
it  at  home.  The  next  day,  we  went  to  Lewisham,  where 
an  honest  divine  preached. 

31st  December,  1652.  I  adjusted  all  accompts,  and 
rendered  thanks  to  Almighty  God  for  his  mercies  to  me 
the  year  past. 

ist  January,  1652-53.  I  set  apart  in  preparation  for  the 
Blessed  Sacrament,  which  the  next  day  Mr.  Owen  ad- 
ministered to  me  and  all  my  family  in  Sayes  Court, 
preaching  on  John  vi.  32,  ^^t^  showing  the  exceeding 
benefits  of  our  blessed  Savior  taking  our  nature  upon 
him.  He  had  christened  my  son  and  churched  my  wife 
in  our  own  house  as  before  noticed. 

17th  January,  1653.  I  began  to  set  out  the  oval  garden 
at  Sayes  Court,  which   was   before    a  rude   orchard,  and 

*The  book  here  referred  to  is  in  the  British  Museum,  entitled 
^^/oannis  Barclaii  Icon  Amntarum,^^  and  printed  at  London,  1614, 
small  i2mo.  It  is  written  in  Latin,  and  dedicated  to  Louis  XIII. 
of  France,  for  what  reason  does  not  appear,  the  author  speaking  ot 
himself  as  a  subject  of  this  country.  It  mentions  the  necessity  of 
forming  the  minds  of  youth,  as  a  skillful  gardener  forms  his  trees ;  the 
different  dispositions  of  men,  in  different  nations;  English,  Scotch, 
and  Irish,  etc.  Chapter  second  contains  a  florid  description  of  the 
beautiful  scenery  about  Greenwich,  but  does  not  mention  Dr.  Mason, 
or  his  bouse, 


1652-53  JOHN  EVELYN  281 

all  the  rest  one  entire  field  of  100  acres,  without  any 
hedge,  except  the  hither  holly  hedge  joining  to  the  bank 
of  the  mount  walk.  This  was  the  beginning  of  all  the 
succeeding  gardens,  walks,  groves,  inclosures,  and  plan- 
tations there. 

2ist  January,  1653.  I  went  to  London,  and  sealed 
some  of  the  writings  of  my  purchase  of  Sayes  Court. 

30th  January,  1653.  At  our  own  parish  church,  a 
stranger  preached.  There  was  now  and  then  an  honest 
orthodox  man  got  into  the  pulpit,  and,  though  the  present 
incumbent  was  somewhat  of  the  Independent,  yet  he 
ordinarily  preached  sound  doctrine,  and  was  a  peaceable 
man;  which  was  an  extraordinary  felicity  in  this  age. 

I  St  February,  1653.  Old  Alexander  Rosse  (author  of 
«  Virgiliiis  Evangelizans^^'*  and  many  other  little  books) 
presented  me  with  his  book  against  Mr.  Hobbes's  "  Levi- 
athan. * 

19th  February,  1653.  I  planted  the  orchard  at  Sayes 
Court;  new  moon,  wind  west. 

2 2d  February,  1653.  Was  perfected  the  sealing,  livery, 
and  seisin  of  my  purchase  of  Sayes  Court.  My  brother, 
George  Glanville,  Mr.  Scudamore,  Mr.  OflSey,  Co.  Wil- 
liam Glanville  (son  to  Sergeant  Glanville,  sometime 
Speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons),  Co.  Stephens,  and 
several  of  my  friends  dining  with  me.  I  had  bargained 
for  ;^3,2oo,  but  I  paid  ^3,500. 

25th  March,  1653  Came  to  see  me  that  rare  graver  in 
taille-douce,  Monsieur  Richett,  he  was  sent  by  Cardinal 
Mazarine   to  make   a  collection   of  pictures. 

nth  April,  1653  I  went  to  take  the  air  in  Hyde 
Park,  where  every  coach  was  made  to  pay  a  shilling, 
and  horse  sixpence,  by  the  sordid  fellow  who  had  pur- 
chased  it  of  the   state,    as   they   called   it. 

17th  May,  1653.  My  servant  Hoare,  who  wrote  those 
exquisite  several  hands,  fell  of  a  fit  of  an  apoplexy, 
caused,  as  I  suppose,  by  tampering  with  mercury  about 
an   experiment  in   gold. 

29th  May,  1653.  I  went  to  London,  to  take  my  last 
leave  of  my  honest  friend,  Mr.  Barton,  now  dying;  it 
was  a  great  loss  to  me  and  to  my  affairs.  On  the 
sixth   of  June,  I    attended   his  funeral. 

8th  June,  1653.  Came  my  brother  George,  Captain 
Evelyn,  the  ^eat  traveler,   Mr.   Muschamp,   my  cousin, 


282  DIARY   OF  LONDON 

Thomas  Keightly,  and  a  virtuoso,  fastastical  Simons, 
who  had  the   talent  of  embossing  so  to  the  life. 

9th  June,  1653.  I  went  to  visit  my  worthy  neighbor, 
Sir  Henry  Newton  [at  Charlton],  and  consider  the  pros- 
pect, which  is  doubtless  for  city,  river,  ships,  mea- 
dows, hill,  woods,  and  all  other  amenities,  one  of  the 
most  noble  in  the  world;  so  as,  had  the  house  running 
water,  it  were  a  princely  seat.  Mr.  Henshaw  and  his 
brother-in-law  came  to  visit  me,  and  he  presented  me 
with   a  seleniscope. 

19th  June,  1653.  This  day,  I  paid  all  my  debts  to  a 
farthing;   oh,  blessed   day! 

2ist  June,  1653.  My  Lady  Gerrard,  and  one  Esquire 
Knight,  a  very  rich  gentleman,  living  in  Northampton- 
shire, visited  me. 

23d  June,  1653,  Mr.  Lombart,  a  famous  graver,  came 
to  see  my  collections. 

27th  June,  1653.  Monsieur  Roupel  sent  me  a  small 
phial  of  his  aurum  potabile,  with  a  letter,  showing  the 
way  of  administering  it,  and  the  stupendous  cures  it 
had  done  at  Paris;  but,  ere  it  came  to  me,  by  what 
accident   I  know  not,    it  was   all  run  out. 

17th  August,  1653.  I  went  to  visit  Mr.  Hyldiard,  at 
his  house  at  Horsley  (formerly  the  great  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh's*),  where  met  me  Mr,  Oughtred,  the  famous 
mathematician ;  he  showed  me  a  box,  or  golden  case,  of 
divers  rich  and  aromatic  balsams,  which  a  chemist,  a 
scholar  of  his,    had  sent   him   out   of   Germany. 

2ist  August,  1653.  I  heard  that  good  old  man,  Mr. 
Higham,  the  parson  of  the  parish  of  Wotton  where  I  was 
bom,  and  who  had  baptized  me,  preach  after  his  very 
plain  way  on  Luke,  comparing  this  troublesome  world  to 
the  sea,  the  ministers  to  the  fishermen,  and  the  saints  to 
the  fish. 

2  2d  August,  1653.  We  all  went  to  Guildford,  to  rejoice 
at  the  famous  inn,  the  Red  Lion,  and  to  see  the  hospital, 
and  the  monument  of  Archbishop  Abbot,  the  founder, 
who  lies  buried  in  the  chapel  of  his  endowment. 

28th  September,  1653.  At  Greenwich  preached  that 
holy  martyr.  Dr.  Hewer,  on  Psalm  xc.  11,  magnifying 
the    g^ace    of    God    to    penitents,    and    threatening    the 

♦Eveljm  is  here  in  error:  Mr.  Hyldiard  •^as  of  East  Horsley,  Sir 
Walter  of  West 


1653-54  JOHN   EVELYN  283 

extinction  of  his  Gospel  light  for  the  prodigious  impiety 
of  the  age. 

nth  October,  1653.  My  son,  John  Stansfield,  was  born, 
being  my  second  child,  and  christened  by  the  name  of 
my  mother's  father,  that  name  now  quite  extinct, 
being  of  Cheshire.  Christened  by  Mr.  Owen,  in  my 
library,  at  Sayes  Court,  where  he  afterward  churched  my 
wife,  I  always  making  use  of  him  on  these  occasions,  be- 
cause the  parish  minister  dared  not  have  officiated  ac- 
cording to  the  form  and  usage  of  the  Church  of  England, 
to  which  I  always  adhered. 

25th  October,  1653.  Mr.  Owen  preached  in  my  library 
at  Sayes  Court  on  Luke  xviii.  7,  8,  an  excellent  discourse 
on  the  unjust  judge,  showing  why  Almighty  God  would 
sometimes  be  compared  by  such  similitudes.  He  after- 
ward administered  to  us  all  the  Holy  Sacrament. 

28th  October,  1653.  Went  to  London,  to  visit  my  Lady 
Gerrard,  where  I  saw  that  cursed  woman  called  the  Lady 
Norton,  of  whom  it  was  reported  that  she  spit  in  our 
King's  face  as  he  went  to  the  scaffold.  Indeed,  her  talk 
and  discourse  was  like  an  impudent  woman. 

2ist  November,  1653.  I  went  to  London,  to  speak  with 
Sir  John  Evelyn,  my  kinsman,  about  the  purchase  of  an 
estate  of  Mr.  Lambard's  at  Westeram,  which  afterward 
Sir  John  himself  bought  for  his  son-in-law.  Leech. 

4th  December,  1653.  Going  this  day  to  our  church,  I 
was  surprised  to  see  a  tradesman,  a  mechanic,  step  up; 
I  was  resolved  yet  to  stay  and  see  what  he  would  make 
of  it.  His  text  was  from  2  Sam.  xxiii.  20 :  <<  And  Benaiah 
went  down  also  and  slew  a  lion  in  the  midst  of  a  pit  in 
the  time  of  snow  ^* ;  the  purport  was,  that  no  danger  was 
to  be  thought  difficult  when  God  called  for  shedding  of 
blood,  inferring  that  now  the  saints  were  called  to  de- 
stroy temporal  governments ;  with  such  feculent  stuff ;  so 
dangerous  a  crisis  were  things  grown  to. 

25th  December,  1653.  Christmas  day.  No  churches,  or 
public  assembly.  I  was  fain  to  pass  the  devotions  of  that 
Blessed  day  with  my  family  at  home. 

20th  January,  1653-54.  Come  to  see  my  old  acquaint- 
ance and  the  most  incomparable  player  on  the  Irish  harp, 
Mr.  Clark,*  after  his  travels.  He  was  an  excellent  musi- 
cian, a  discreet  gentleman,  born  in  Devonshire  (as  I  re- 

*See  under  the  year  1688,  November. 


284  DIARY   OF  London 

member).  Such  music  before  or  since  did  I  never  hear,  that 
instrument  being  neglected  for  its  extraordinary  difficulty ; 
but,  in  my  judgment,  far  superior  to  the  lute  itself,  or 
whatever  speaks  with  strings. 

25th  January,  1654.  Died  my  son,  J.  Stansfield,  of  con- 
vulsion fits;  buried  at  Deptford  on  the  the  east  comer 
of  the  church,  near  his  mother's  great-grandfather,  and 
other  relatives. 

8th  February,  1654.  Ash  Wednesday.  In  contradiction 
to  all  custom  and  decency,  the  usurper,  Cromwell,  feasted 
at  the  Lord  Mayor's,  riding  in  triumph  through  the 
city. 

14th  February,  1654.  I  saw  a  tame  lion  play  familiarly 
with  a  lamb ;  he  was  a  huge  beast,  and  I  thrust  my  hand 
into  his  mouth  and  found  his  tongue  rough  like  a  cat's ; 
a  sheep  also  with  six  legs,  whicL  made  use  of  five  of 
them  to  walk ;  a  goose  that  had  four  legs,  two  crops,  and 
as  many  vents. 

29th  March,  1654.  That  excellent  man,  Mr.  Owen, 
preached  in  my  library  on  Matt,  xxviii.  6,  a  resurrection 
sermon,  and  after  it  we  all  received  the  Holy  Com- 
munion. 

6th  April,  1654.  Came  my  Lord  Herbert,  Sir  Kenelm 
Digby,  Mr.   Denham,  and  other  friends  to  see  me. 

15th  April,  1654.  I  went  to  London  to  hear  the  fa- 
mous Jeremy  Taylor  ( since  Bishop  of  Down  and  Connor ) 
at  St.  Gregory's  ( near  St.  Paul's )  on  Matt,  vi,  48,  con- 
cerning evangelical  perfection. 

5th  May,  1654.  I  bound  my  lackey,  Thomas  Headly, 
apprentice  to  a  carpenter,  giving  with  him  five  pounds 
and  new  clothing;  he  thrived  very  well,  and  became  rich. 

8th  May,  1654.  I  went  to  Hackney,  to  see  Lady  Brook's 
garden,  which  was  one  of  the  neatest  and  most  cele- 
brated in  England,  the  house  well  furnished,  but  a 
despicable  building.  Returning,  visited  one  Mr.  Tomb's 
garden ;  it  has  large  and  noble  walks,  some  modem  statiies, 
a  vineyard,  planted  in  strawberry  borders,  staked  at  ten 
feet  distances,  the  banqueting-house  of  cedar,  where  the 
couch  and  seats  were  carved  h  Vantique;  some  good  pic- 
tures in  the  house,  especially  one  of  Vandyke's,  being  a 
man  in  his  shirt;  also  some  of  Stenwyck.  I  also  called 
at  Mr,  Ducie's,  who  has  indeed  a  rare  collection  of  the 
best  masters,  and  one  of   the  largest  stories  of  H-  HqI- 


OLIVER   CROMWELL  DICTATING    TO  JOHN 
MILTON 

The  letter  to  the  Duke  of  Savoy  to  stop'  the  persecution  of  thf 
Protestants  of  Piedmont,  1635.  ■  Photogravure  from  an  rn- 
gratnng  by  Sartain  after  Newenham 


1654  JOHN  EVELYN  285 

bein.  I  also  saw  Sir  Thomas  Fowler's  aviary,  which  is 
a  poor  business. 

loth  May,  1654.  My  Lady  Gerrard  treated  tis  at  Mul- 
berry Garden,  now  the  only  place  of  refreshment  about 
the  town  for  persons  of  the  best  quality  to  be  exceedingly 
cheated  at;  Cromwell  and  his  partisans  having  shut  up 
and  seized  on  Spring  Garden,  which,  till  now,  had  been 
the  usual  rendezvous  for  the  ladies  and  gallants  at  this 
season. 

nth  May,  1654.  I  now  observed  how  the  women  be- 
gan to  paint  themselves,  formerly  a  most  ignominious 
thing,  and  used  only  by  prostitutes. 

14th  May,  1654.  There  being  no  such  thing  as  church 
anniversaries  in  the  parochial  assemblies,  I  was  forced 
to  provide  at  home  for  Whit  Sunday. 

15th  May,  1654.  Came  Sir  Robert  Stapylton,  the  trans- 
lator of  "Juvenal,"  to  visit  me. 

8th  June,  1654.  My  wife  and  I  set  out  in  a  coach  and 
four  horses,  in  our  way  to  visit  relations  of  hers  in  Wilt- 
shire, and  other  parts,  where  we  resolved  to  spend  some 
months.  We  dined  at  Windsor,  saw  the  Castle  and  Chapel 
of  St.  George,  where  they  have  laid  our  blessed  Mart}T, 
King  Charles,  in  the  vault  just  before  the  altar.  The 
church  and  workmanship  in  stone  is  admirable.  The 
Castle  itself  is  large  in  circumference;  but  the  rooms 
melancholy,  and  of  ancient  magnificence.  The  keep,  or 
mount,  hath,  besides  its  incomparable  prospect,  a  very 
profound  well ;  and  the  terrace  toward  Eton,  with  the  park, 
meandering  Thames,  and  sweet  meadows,  yield  one  of  the 
most  delighful  prospects.  That  night,  we  lay  at  Reading. 
Saw  my  Lord  Craven's  house  at  Causam  [Caversham], 
now  in  ruins,  his  goodly  woods  felling  by  the  Rebels. 

9th  June,  1654.  Dined  at  Marlborough,  which  having 
been  lately  fired,  was  now  new  built.  At  one  end  of  this 
town,  we  saw  my  Lord  Seymour's  house,  but  nothing  ob- 
servable save  the  Mount,  to  which  we  ascended  by  wind- 
ings for  near  half  a  mile.  It  seems  to  have  been  cast  up 
by  hand.  We  passed  by  Colonel  Pophams,  a  noble  seat, 
park,  and  river.  Thence,  to  Newbury,  a  considerable  town, 
and  Donnington,  famous  for  its  battle,  siege,  and  castle, 
this  last  had  been  in  the  possession  of  old  Geoffrey 
Chaucer.  Then  to  Aldermaston,  a  house  of  Sir  Humphrey 
Forster's,   built    h    la    moderne.      Also,   that    exceedingly 


286  DIARY  OF  oxford 

beautiful  seat  of  my  Lord  Pembroke,  on  the  ascent  of  a 
hill,  flanked  with  wood,  and  regarding  the  river,  and  so, 
at  night,  to  Cadenham,  the  mansion  of  Edward  Hunger- 
ford,  Esq.,  uncle  to  my  wife,  where  we  made  some  stay. 
The  rest  of  the  week  we  did  nothing  but  feast  and  make 
good  cheer,  to  welcome  my  wife. 

27th  June,  1654.  We  all  went  to  see  Bath,  where  I 
bathed  in  the  cross  bath.  Among  the  rest  of  the  idle 
diversions  of  the  town,  one  musician  was  famous 
for  acting  a  changeling,  which  indeed  he  personated 
strangely. 

The  faccidta  of  this  cathedral  is  remarkable  for  its 
historical  carving.  The  King's  Bath  is  esteemed  the 
fairest  in  Europe.  The  town  is  entirely  built  of  stone, 
but  the  streets  narrow,  uneven  and  unpleasant.  Here, 
we  trifled  and  bathed,  and  intervisited  with  the  company 
who  frequent  the  place  for  health,  till  the  30th,  and  then 
went  to  Bristol,  a  city  emulating  London,  not  for  its 
large  extent,  but  manner  of  building,  shops,  bridge, 
traffic,  exchange,  market-place,  etc.  The  governor  showed 
us  the  castle,  of  no  great  concernment.  The  city  wholly 
mercantile,  as  standing  near  the  famous  Severn,  com- 
modiously  for  Ireland,  and  the  Western  world.  Here  I 
first  saw  the  manner  of  refining  sugar  and  casting  it  into 
loaves,  where  we  had  a  collection  of  eggs  fried  in  the 
sugar  furnace,  together  with  excellent  Spanish  wine. 
But,  what  appeared  most  stupendous  to  me,  was  the  rock 
of  St.  Vincent,  a  little  distance  from  the  town,  the  prec- 
ipice whereof  is  equal  to  anything  of  that  nature  I  have 
seen  in  the  most  confragose  cataracts  of  the  Alps,  the 
river  gliding  between  them  at  an  extraordinary  depth. 
Here,  we  went  searching  for  diamonds,  and  to  the  Hot 
Wells,  at  its  foot.  There  is  also  on  the  side  of  this  hor- 
rid Alp  a  very  romantic  seat :  and  so  we  returned  to  Bath 
in  the  evening,  and  July  ist  to  Cadenham. 

4th  July,  1654.  On  a  letter  from  my  wife's  uncle,  Mr. 
Pretyman,  I  waited  back  on  her  to  London,  passing  by 
Hungerford,  a  town  famous  for  its  trouts,  and  the  next 
day  arrived  at  Deptford,  which  was  60  miles,  in  the  ex- 
tremity of  heat. 

6th  July,  1654.  I  went  early  to  London,  and  the  follow- 
ing day  met  my  wife  and  company  at  Oxford,  the  eve  of 
the  Act. 


1654  JOHN  EVELYN  287 

8th  July,  1654.  Was  spent  in  hearing  several  exercises 
in  the  schools ;  and,  after  dinner,  the  Proctor  opened  the 
Act  at  St.  Mary's  (according  to  custom),  and  the  Prevari- 
cators, their  drollery.  Then,  the  Doctors  disputed.  We 
supped  at  Wadham  College. 

9th  June,  1654.  Dr.  French  preached  at  St.  Mary's, 
on  Matt.  xii.  42,  advising  the  students  the  search  after 
true  wisdom,  not  to  be  had  in  the  books  of  philosophers, 
but  in  the  Scriptures  alone.  In  the  afternoon,  the  fam- 
ous Independent,  Dr.  Owen,  perstringing  Episcopacy. 
He  was  now  Cromwell's  Vice-Chancellor.  We  dined  with 
Dr.  Ward,  Mathematical  Professor  (since  Bishop  of  Sarum), 
and  at  night  supped  in  Baliol  College  Hall,  where  I  had 
once  been  student  and  fellow-commoner,  and  where  they 
made  me  extraordinarily  welcome. 

loth  June,  1654.  On  Monday,  I  went  again  to  the 
schools,  to  hear  the  several  faculties,  and  in  the  after- 
noon tarried  out  the  whole  Act  in  St.  Mary's,  the  long 
speeches  of  the  Proctors,  the  Vice-Chancellor,  the  several 
Professors,  creation  of  Doctors,  by  the  cap,  ring,  kiss, 
etc.,  those  ancient  ceremonies  and  institution  being  as 
yet  not  wholly  abolished.  Dr.  Kendal,  now  Inceptor 
among  others,  performing  his  Act  incomparably  well, 
concluded  it  with  an  excellent  oration,  abating  his  Pres- 
byterian animosities,  which  he  withheld,  not  even  against 
that  learned  and  pious  divine,  Dr.  Hammond.  The  Act 
was  closed  with  the  speech  of  the  Vice-Chancellor,  there 
being  but  four  in  theology,  and  three  in  medicine,  which 
was  thought  a  considerable  matter,  the  times  considered. 
I  dined  at  one  Monsieur  Fiat's,  a  student  of  Exeter 
College,  and  supped  at  a  magnificent  entertainment  of 
Wadham  Hall,  invited  by  my  dear  and  excellent  friend. 
Dr.  Wilkins,  then  Warden  (after.   Bishop  of  Chester). 

nth  July,  1654.  Was  the  Latin  sermon,  which  I  could 
not  be  at,  though  invited,  being  taken  up  at  All  Souls, 
where  we  had  music  voices,  and  theorbos,  performed  by 
some  ingenious  scholars.  After  dinner,  I  visited  that 
miracle  of  a  youth,  Mr.  Christopher  Wren,  nephew  to 
the  Bishop  of  Ely.  Then  Mr.  Barlow  (since  Bishop  of 
Lincoln),  bibliothecarius  of  the  Bodleian  Library,  my 
most  learned  friend.  He  showed  us  the  rarities  of  that 
most  famous  place,  manuscripts,  medals,  and  other  curi- 
osities.    Among  the  MSS.  an  old  English  Bible,  wherein 


288  DIARY  OF  oxford 

the  Eunuch  mentioned  to  be  baptized  by  Philip,  is 
called  the  Gelding :  *  and  Philip  and  the  Gelding  went 
down  into  the  water,*  etc.  The  original  Acts  of  the 
Council  of  Basil  900  years  since,  with  the  bulla^  or  leaden 
affix,  which  has  a  silken  cord  passing  through  every 
parchment;  a  MSS.  of  Venerable  Bede  of  800  years  antiq- 
uity; the  old  Ritual  secundum  usuni  Sarum  exceeding 
voluminous ;  then,  among  the  nicer  curiosities,  the  "  Pro- 
verbs of  Solomon,**  written  in  French  by  a  lady,  every 
chapter  of  a  several  character,  or  hand,  the  most  ex- 
quisite imaginable;  an  hieroglyphical  table,  or  carta, 
folded  up  like  a  map,  I  suppose  it  painted  on  asses'  hide, 
extremely  rare;  but,  what  is  most  illustrious,  there  were 
no  less  than  1,000  MSS.  in  nineteen  languages,  especially 
Oriental,  furnishing  that  new  part  of  the  library  built  by 
Archbishop  Laud,  from  a  design  of  Sir  Kenelm  Digby  and 
the  Earl  of  Pembroke.  In  the  closet  of  the  tower,  they 
show  some  Indian  weapons,  urns,  lamps,  etc. ,  but  the  rarest 
is  the  whole  Alcoran,  written  on  one  large  sheet  of  calico, 
made  up  in  a  priest's  vesture,  or  cope,  after  the  Turkish 
and  Arabic  character,  so  exquisitely  written,  as  no  printed 
letter  comes  near  it;  also,  a  roll  of  magical  charms, 
divers  talismans,  and  some  medals. 

Then,  I  led  my  wife  into  the  Convocation  House,  finely 
wainscoted;  the  Divinity  School,  and  Gothic  carved  roof; 
the  Physic,  or  Anatomy  School,  adorned  with  some  rari- 
ties of  natural  things;  but  nothing  extraordinary  save  the 
skin  of  a  jackal,  a  rarely-colored  jackatoo,  or  prodigious 
large  parrot,  two  humming  birds,  not  much  bigger  than 
our  bumblebee,  which  indeed  I  had  not  seen  before, 
that  I  remember. 

12th  July,  1654.  We  went  to  St.  John's,  saw  the  library 
and  the  two  skeletons,  which  are  finely  cleansed  and  put 
together;  observable  is  here  also  the  store  of  mathematical 
instruments,  chiefly  given  by  the  late  Archbishop  Laud, 
who  built  here  a  handsome  quadrangle. 

Thence  we  went  to  New  College,  where  the  chapel 
was  in  its  ancient  garb,  notwithstanding  the  scrupulosity 
of  the  times.  Thence,  to  Christ's  Church,  in  whose 
library  was  shown  us  an  Office  of  Henry  VIII.,  the 
writing,  miniatures,  and  gilding  whereof  is  equal,  if  not 
surpassing,  any  curiosity  I  had  seen  of  that  kind;  it  was 
given  by  their  founder.  Cardinal  Wolsey.     The  glass  win- 


j654  JOHN  EVELYN  289 

dows  of  the  cathedral  (famous  in  my  time)  I  found  much 
abused.  The  ample  hall  and  column,  that  spreads  its 
capital  to  sustain  the  roof  as  one  goes  up  the  stairs,  is 
very  remarkable. 

Next  we  walked  to  Magdalen  College,  where  we  saw 
the  library  and  chapel,  which  was  likewise  in  pontifical 
order,  the  altar  only  I  think  turned  tablewise,  and  there 
was  still  the  double  organ,  which  abominations  (as  now 
esteemed)  were  almost  universally  demolished;  Mr.  Gib- 
bon, that  famous  musician,  giving  us  a  taste  of  his  skill 
and  talents  on  that  instrument. 

Hence,  to  the  Physic  Garden,  where  the  sensitive  plant 
was  shown  us  for  a  great  wonder.  There  grew  canes, 
olive  trees,  rhubarb,  but  no  extraordinary  curiosities,  be- 
sides very  good  fruit,  which,  when  the  ladies  had  tasted, 
we  returned  in  our  coach  to  our  lodgings. 

13th  July,  1654.  We  all  dined  at  that  most  obliging 
and  universally-curious  Dr.  Wilkins's,  at  Wadham  College. 
He  was  the  first  who  showed  me  the  transparent  apiaries, 
which  he  had  built  like  castles  and  palaces,  and  so  or- 
dered them  one  upon  another,  as  to  take  the  honey  with- 
out destroying  the  bees.  These  were  adorned  with  a 
variety  of  dials,  little  statues,  vanes,  etc. ;  and,  he  was 
so  abundantly  civil,  finding  me  pleased  with  them,  to 
present  me  with  one  of  the  hives  which  he  had  empty, 
and  which  I  afterward  had  in  my  garden  at  Sayes  Court, 
where  it  continued  many  years,  and  which  his  Majesty 
came  on  purpose  to  see  and  contemplate  with  much  sat- 
isfaction. He  had  also  contrived  a  hollow  statue,  which 
gave  a  voice  and  uttered  words  by  a  long,  concealed  pipe 
that  went  to  its  mouth,*  while  one  speaks  through  it  at 
a  good  distance.  He  had,  above  in  his  lodgings  and  gal- 
lery, variety  of  shadows,  dials,  perspectives,  and  many 
other  artificial,  mathematical,  and  magical  curiosities,  a 
waywiser,  a  thermometer,  a  monstrous  magnet,  conic, 
and  other  sections,  a  balance  on  a  demi-circle;  most  of 
them  of  his  own,  and  that  prodigious  young  scholar  Mr. 
Christopher  Wren,  who  presented  me  with  a  piece  of 
white  marble,  which  he  had  stained  with  a  lively  red, 
very  deep,  as  beautiful  as  if  it  had  been  natural. 

Thus  satisfied  with  the  civilities  of  Oxford,  we  left  it, 

*  Such  were  the  speaking  figures  long  ago  exhibited  in  Spring  Gar- 
dens, and  in  Leicester  Fields. 
19 


290  DIARY    OP  SALISBURY 

dining  at  Farringdon,  a  town  which  had  been  newly- 
fired  during  the  wars;  and,  passing  near  the  seat  of  Sir 
Walter  Pye,  we  came  to  Cadenham. 

1 6th  July,  1654.  We  went  to  another  uncle  and  rela- 
tive of  my  wife's,  Sir  John  Glanville,  a  famous  lawyer, 
formerly  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons;  his  seat  is 
at  Broad  Hinton,  where  he  now  lived  but  in  the  gate- 
house, his  very  fair  dwelling  house  having  been  burnt 
by  his  own  hands,  to  prevent  the  rebels  making  a  garri- 
son of  it.  Here,  my  cousin  William  Glanville 's  eldest  son 
showed  me  such  a  lock  for  a  door,  that  for  its  filing, 
and  rare  contrivances  was  a  masterpiece,  yet  made  by 
a  country  blacksmith.  But,  we  have  seen  watches  made 
by  another  with  as  much  curiosity  as  the  best  of  that 
profession  can  brag  of;  and,  not  many  years  after,  there 
was  nothing  more  frequent  than  all  sorts  of  ironwork 
more  exquisitely  wrought  and  polished  than  in  any  part 
of  Europe,  so  as  a  door  lock  of  a  tolerable  price  was  es- 
teemed a  curiosity  even  among  foreign  princes. 

Went  back  to  Cadenham,  and,  on  the  19th,  to  Sir 
Edward  Baynton's  at  Spie  Park,  a  place  capable  of  being 
made  a  noble  seat;  but  the  humorous  old  knight  has 
built  a  long  single  house  of  two  low  stories  on  the  precipice 
of  an  incomparable  prospect,  and  landing  on  a  bowling- 
green  in  the  park.  The  house  is  like  a  long  barn,  and 
has  not  a  window  on  the  prospect  side.  After  dinner, 
they  went  to  bowls,  and,  in  the  meantine,  our  coachmen 
were  made  so  exceedingly  drunk,  that  in  returning  home 
we  escaped  great  dangers.  This,  it  seems,  was  by  order 
of  the  knight,  that  all  gentlemen's  servants  be  so  treated ; 
but  the  custom  is  barbarous,  and  much  unbecoming  a 
knight  still  less  a   Christian. 

20th  July,  1654.  We  proceeded  to  Salisbury;  the  ca- 
thedral I  take  to  be  the  most  complete  piece  of  Gothic 
work  in  Europe,  taken  in  all  its  uniformity.  The  pillars, 
reputed  to  be  cast,  are  of  stone  manifestly  cut  out  of  the 
quarry;  most  observable  are  those  in  the  chapter  house. 
There  are  some  remarkable  monuments,  particularly  the 
ancient  Bishops,  founders  of  the  Church,  Knights  Tem- 
plars, the  Marquis  of  Hertford's,  the  cloisters  of  the 
palace  and  garden,  and  the  great  mural  dial. 

In  the  afternoon  we  went  to  Wilton,  a  fine  house  of 
the  Earl  of  Pembroke,  in  which  the  most  observable  are 


i65+  JOHN  EVELYN  291 

the  dining  room  in  the  modem-built  part  toward  the 
garden,  richly  gilded  and  painted  with  story,  by  De  Crete ; 
also  some  other  apartments,  as  that  of  hunting  land- 
scapes, by  Pierce ;  some  magnificent  chimney-pieces,  after 
the  best  French  manner ;  a  pair  of  artificial  winding  stairs 
of  stone,  and  divers  rare  pictures.  The  garden,  hereto- 
fore esteemed  the  noblest  in  England,  is  a  large  hand- 
some plain,  with  a  grotto  and  waterworks,  which  might 
be  made  much  more  pleasant,  were  the  river  that  passes 
through  cleansed  and  raised ;  for  all  is  effected  by  a  mere 
force.  It  has  a  flower  garden,  not  inelegant.  But,  after  all, 
that  which  renders  the  seat  delightful  is,  its  being  so  near 
the  downs  and  noble  plains  about  the  country  contiguous 
to  it.  The  stables  are  well  ordered  and  yield  a  graceful 
front,  by  reason  of  the  walks  of  lime  trees,  with  the 
court  and  fountain  of  the  stables  adorned  with  the  Caesars' 
heads. 

We  returned  this  evening  by  the  plain,  and  fourteen- 
mile  race,  where  out  of  my  lord's  hare  warren  we  were 
entertained  with  a  long  course  of  a  hare  for  near  two 
miles  in  sight.  Near  this,  is  a  pergola,  or  stand,  built  to 
view  the  sports;  and  so  we  came  to  Salisbury,  and  saw 
the  most  considerable  parts  of  the  city.  The  market 
place,  with  most  of  the  streets,  are  watered  by  a  quick 
current  and  pure  stream  running  through  the  middle  of 
them,  but  are  negligently  kept,  when  with  a  small 
charge  they  might  be  purged  and  rendered  infinitely 
agreeable,  and  this  made  one  of  the  sweetest  towns,  but 
now  the  common  buildings  are  despicable,  and  the  streets 
dirty. 

2 2d  July,  1654.  We  departed  and  dined  at  a  farm 
of  my  Uncle  Hungerford's,  called  Damford  Magna,  sit- 
uated in  a  valley  under  the  plain,  most  sweetly  watered, 
abounding  in  trouts  caught  by  spear  in  the  night, 
when  they  come  attracted  by  a  light  set  in  the  stem  of  a  boat. 

After  dinner,  continuing  our  return,  we  passed  over  the 
goodly  plain,  or  rather  sea  of  carpet,  which  I  think  for 
evenness,  extent,  verdure,  and  innumerable  flocks,  to  be 
one  of  the  most  delightful  prospects  in  nature,  and 
reminded  me  of  the  pleasant  lives  of  shepherds  we  read 
of  in  romances. 

Now  we  arrived  at  Stonehenge,  indeed  a  stupendous 
monument,  appearing  at  a  distance  like  a  castle ;  how  so 


292  DIARY    OP  GLOUCESTER 

many  and  huge  pillars  of  stone  should  have  been  brought 
together,  some  erect,  others  transverse  on  the  tops  of 
them,  in  a  circular  area  as  rudely  representing  a  clois- 
ter or  heathen  and  more  natural  temple,  is  wonderful. 
The  stone  is  so  exceedingly  hard,  that  all  my  strength 
with  a  hammer  could  not  break  a  fragment ;  which  hard- 
ness I  impute  to  their  so  long  exposure.  To  number 
them  exactly  is  very  difficult,  they  lie  in  such  variety 
of  postures  and  confusion,  though  they  seemed  not  to 
exceed  loo;  we  counted  only  95.  As  to  their  being 
brought  thither,  there  being  no  navigable  river  near,  is 
by  some  admired;  "but  for  the  stone,  there  seems  to  be 
the  same  kind  about  20  miles  distant,  some  of  which  ap- 
pear above  ground.  About  the  same  hills,  are  divers 
mounts  raised,  conceived  to  be  ancient  intrenchments,  or 
places  of  burial,  after  bloody  fights.  We  now  went  by 
Devizes,  a  reasonable  large  town,  and  came  late  to  Ca- 
denham. 

27th  July,  1654.  To  the  hunting  of  a  sorel  deer,  and  had 
excellent  chase  for  four  or  five  hours,  but  the  venison 
little  worth. 

29th  July,  1654.  I  went  to  Langford  to  see  my  Cousin 
Stephens.  I  also  saw  Dryfield,  the  house  heretofore  of 
Sir  John  Pretyman,  grandfather  to  my  wife,  and  sold  by 
her  uncle;  both  the  seat  and  house  very  honorable  and 
well  built,  much  after  the  modem  fashion. 

31st  July,  1654.  Taking  leave  of  Cadenham,  where  we 
had  been  long  and  nobly  entertained,  we  went  a  com- 
pass into  Leicestershire,  where  dwelt  another  relation  of 
my  wife's;  for  I  indeed  made  these  excursions  to 
show  her  the  most  considerable  parts  of  her  native 
country,  who,  from  her  childhood,  had  lived  altogether  in 
France,  as  well  as  for  my  own  curiosity  and  informa- 
tion. 

About  two  miles  before  coming  to  Gloucester,  we  have 
a  prospect  from  woody  hills  into  a  most  goodly  vale  and 
country.  Gloucester  is  a  handsome  city,  considerable  for 
the  church  and  monuments.  The  minster  is  indeed  a 
noble  fabric.  The  whispering  gallery  is  rare,  being 
through  a  passage  of  twenty-five  yards  in  a  many-angled 
cloister,  and  was,  I  suppose,  either  to  show  the  skill  of 
the  architect,  or  some  invention  of  a  cunning  priest,  who, 
standing  unseen  in  a  recess  in  the  middle  of  the  chapel, 


i654  JOHN   EVELYN  293 

might  hear  whatever  was  spoken  at  either  end.  This  is 
above  the  choir,  in  which  lies  buried  King  Stephen  *  under 
a  monument  of  Irish  oak,  not  ill  carved  considering  the 
age.  The  new  library  is  a  noble  though  a  private  design. 
I  was  likewise  pleased  with  the  Severn  gliding  so  sweetly 
by  it.  The  Duke's  house,  the  castle  works,  are  now  al- 
most quite  dismantled;  nor  yet  without  sad  thoughts  did 
I  see  the  town,  considering  how  fatal  the  siege  had  been 
a  few  years  before  to  our  good  King. 

ist  August,  1654.  We  set  out  toward  Worcester,  by  a 
way  thickly  planted  with  cider  fruit.  We  deviated  to  the 
Holy  Wells,  trickling  out  of  a  valley  through  a  steep 
declivity  toward  the  foot  of  the  great  Malvern  Hills; 
they  are  said  to  heal  many  infirmities,  as  king's  evil, 
leprosy,  sore  eyes,  etc.  Ascending  a  great  height  above 
them  to  the  trench  dividing  England  from  South  Wales, 
we  had  the  prospect  of  all  Herefordshire,  Radnor,  Breck- 
noch,  Monmouth,  Worcester,  Gloucester,  Shropshire,  War- 
wick, Derbyshires,  and  many  more.  We  could  discern 
Tewkesbury,  King's  road,  toward  Bristol,  etc. ;  so  as  I 
esteem  it  one  of  the  goodliest  vistas  in  England. 

2d  August,  1654.  This  evening  we  arrived  at  Worcester, 
the  Judges  of  Assize  and  Sheriff  just  entering  as  we  did. 
Viewing  the  town  the  next  day,  we  found  the  Cathedral 
much  ruined  by  the  late  wars,  otherwise  a  noble  structure. 
The  town  is  neatly  paved  and  very  clean,  the  goodly 
river  Severn  running  by  it,  and  standing  in  a  most  fertile 
country. 

3d  August,  1654.  We  passed  next  through  Warwick, 
and  saw  the  castle,  the  dwelling  house  of  the  Lord  Brook, 
and  the  furniture  noble.  It  is  built  on  an  eminent  rock 
which  gives  prospect  into  a  most  goodly  green,  a  woody 
and  plentifully  watered  country;  the  river  running  so 
delightfully  under  it,  that  it  may  pass  for  one  of  the 
most  surprising  seats  one  should  meet  with.  The  gardens 
are  prettily  disposed ;  but  might  be  much  improved.  Here 
they  showed  us  Sir  Guy's  great  two-handed  sword,  staff, 
horse-arms,  pot,  and  other  relics  of  that  famous  knight- 
errant.  Warwick  is  a  fair  old  town,  and  hath  one  church 
full  of  ancient  monuments. 

Having  viewed  these,  I  went  to  visit  my  worthy  friend, 

•King  Stephen  was  buried  at  Faversham.  The  effigy  Eveljm 
alluded  to  is  that  of  Robert  Curthose,  Duke  of  Normandy. 


294  DIARY  OF  Leicester 

> 

Sir  H.  Puckering,  at  the  Abbey,  and  though  a  melancholy 
old  seat,  yet  in  a  rich  soil. 

Hence  to  Sir  Guy's  grot,  where  they  say  he  did  his 
penances,  and  died.  It  is  a  squalid  den  made  in  the  rock, 
crowned  yet  with  venerable  oaks  and  looking  on  a  goodly 
stream,  so  as,  were  it  improved  as  it  might  be,  it  were 
capable  of  being  made  a  most  romantic  and  pleasant  place. 
Near  this,  we  were  showed  his  chapel  and  gigantic  statue 
hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock,  out  of  which  there  are  like- 
wise divers  other  caves  cut,  and  some  very  capacious. 

The  next  place  to  Coventry.  The  cross  is  remarkable 
for  Gothic  work  and  rich  gilding,  comparable  to  any  I 
had  ever  seen,  except  that  of  Cheapside  in  London,  now 
demolished.  This  city  has  many  handsome  churches,  a 
beautiful  wall,  a  fair  free  school  and  library  to  it;  the 
streets  full  of  great  shops,  clean  and  well  paved.  At 
going  forth  the  gate,  they  show  us  the  bone,  or  rib,  of  a 
wild  boar,  said  to  have  been  killed  by  Sir  Guy,  but 
which  I  take  to  be  the  chine  of  a  whale. 

4th  August,  1654.  Hence,  riding  through  a  consider- 
able part  of  Leicestershire,  an  open,  rich,  but  unpleasant 
country,  we  came  late  in  the  evening  to  Horninghold,  a 
seat  of  my  wife's  uncle. 

7th  August,  1654.  Went  to  Uppingham,  the  shire  town 
of  Rutland,  pretty  and  well  built  of  stone,  which  is  a 
rarity  in  that  part  of  England,  where  most  of  the  rural 
parishes  are  but  of  mud ;  and  the  people  living  as  wretch- 
edly as  in  the  most  impoverished  parts  of  France,  which 
they  much  resemble,  being  idle  and  sluttish.  The  coun- 
try (especially  Leicestershire)  much  in  common;  the 
gentry  free  drinkers. 

9th  August,  1654.  To  the  old  and  ragged  city  of 
Leicester,  large  and  pleasantly  seated,  but  despicably 
built,  the  chimney  flues  like  so  many  smiths'  forges; 
however,  famous  for  the  tomb  of  the  tyrant,  Richard  III., 
which  is  now  converted  to  a  cistern,  at  which  ( I  think ) 
cattle  drink.  Also,  here  in  one  of  the  churches  lies 
buried  the  magnificent  Cardinal  Wolsey.  John  of  Gaunt 
has  here  also  built  a  large  but  poor  hospital,  near  which 
a  wretch  has  made  him  a  house  out  of  the  ruins  of  a 
stately  church.  Saw  the  ruins  of  an  old  Roman  Temple, 
thought  to  be  of  Janus.  Entertained  at  a  very  fine  col- 
lection of   fruits,  such  as  I  did  not  expect  to  meet  with 


1654  JOHN    EVELYN  295 

so  far  North,  especially  very  good  melons.  We  returned 
to  my  uncle's. 

14th  August,  1654.  I  took  a  journey  into  the  Northern 
parts,  riding  through  Oakham,  a  pretty  town  in  Rutland- 
shire, famous  for  the  tenure  of  the  Barons  (Ferrers), 
who  hold  it  by  taking  off  a  shoe  from  every  nobleman's 
horse  that  passes  with  his  lord  through  the  street,  unless 
redeemed  with  a  certain  piece  of  money.  In  token  of 
this,  are  several  gilded  shoes  nailed  up  on  the  castle 
gate,  which  seems  to  have  been  large  and  fair.  Hence, 
we  went  by  Brook,  a  very  sweet  seat  and  park  of  the 
old  Lady  Camden's.  Next,  by  Burleigh  House,  belong- 
ing to  the  Duke  of  Buckingham,  and  worthily  reckoned 
among  the  noblest  seats  in  England,  situate  on  the  brow 
of  a  hill,  built  ii  la  moderne  near  a  park  walled  in,  and 
a  fine  wood  at  the  descent. 

Now  we  were  come  to  Cottsmore,  a  pretty  seat  be- 
longing to  Mr.  Heath,  son  of  the  late  Lord  Chief  Jus- 
tice of  that  name.  Here,  after  dinner,  parting  with 
the  company  that  conducted  us  thus  far,  I  passed  that 
evening  by  Belvoir  Castle,  built  on  a  round  mount  at 
the  point  of  a  long  ridge  of  hills,  which  affords  a 
stately  prospect,  and  is  famous  for  its  strenuous  resist- 
ance  in  the   late   civil   war. 

Went  by  Newark-on- Trent,  a  brave  town  and  gar- 
rison. Next,  by  Wharton  House,  belonging  to  the  Lord 
Chaworth,  a  handsome  seat;  then  by  Home,  a  noble 
place  belonging  to  the  Marquis  of  Dorchester,  and 
passed  the  famous  river  Trent,  which  divides  the  South 
from  the  North  of  England;  and  so  lay  that  night  at 
Nottingham. 

This  whole  town  and  county  seems  to  be  but  one 
entire  rock,  as  it  were,  an  exceedingly  pleasant  shire,  full 
of  gentry.  Here,  I  observed  divers  to  live  in  the  rocks 
and  caves,  much  after  the  manner  as  about  Tours,  in 
France.  The  church  is  well  built  on  an  eminence; 
there  is  a  fair  house  of  the  Lord  Clare's,  another  of 
Pierrepont's ;  an  ample  market  place;  large  streets,  full 
of  crosses;  the  relics  of  an  ancient  castle,  hollowed 
beneath  which  are  many  caverns,  especially  that  of  the 
Scots'    King,  and  his  work   while   there. 

This  place  is  remarkable  for  being  the  place  where 
his   Majesty   first  erected  his   standard  at  the  beginning 


296  DIARY   OF  YORK 

of  our  late  unhappy  differences.  The  prospects  from 
this  city  toward  the  river  and  meadows  are  most  de- 
lightful. 

15th  August,  1654.  We  passed  next  through  Sherwood 
Forest,  accounted  the  most  extensive  in  England.  Then, 
Paplewick,  an  incomparable  vista  with  the  pretty  castle 
near  it.  Thence,  we  saw  Newstead  Abbey,  belonging  to 
the  Lord  Byron,  situated  much  like  Fontainebleau  in 
France,  capable  of  being  made  a  noble  seat,  accom- 
modated as  it  is  with  brave  woods  and  streams;  it  has 
yet  remaining  the  front  of  a  glorious  abbey  church. 
Next,  by  Mansfield  town;  then  Welbeck,  the  house  of 
the  Marquis  of  Newcastle,  seated  in  a  bottom  in  a 
park,  and  environed  with  woods,  a  noble  yet  melancholy 
seat.  The  palace  is  a  handsome  and  stately  building. 
Next  to  Worksop  Abbey,  almost  demolished;  the  church 
has  a  double  flat  tower  entire,  and  a  pretty  gate.  The 
manor  belongs  to  the  Earl  of  Arundel,  and  has  to  it 
a  fair  house  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  in  a  park  that  affords 
a  delicate  prospect.  Tickel,  a  town  and  castle,  has  a 
very  noble  prospect      All  these  in  Nottinghamshire. 

i6th  August,  1654.  We  arrived  at  Doncaster,  where 
we  lay  this  night;  it  is  a  large  fair  town,  famous  for 
great  wax  lights,  and  good  stockings. 

17th  August,  1654.  Passed  through  Pontefract;  the 
castle  famous  for  many  sieges  both  of  late  and  ancient 
times,  and  the  death  of  that  unhappy  King  murdered  in 
it  (Richard  II.),  was  now  demolishing  by  the  Rebels;  it 
stands  on  a  mount,  and  makes  a  goodly  show  at  a  dis- 
tance. The  Queen  has  a  house  here,  and  there  are  many 
fair  seats  near  it,  especially  Mr.  Pierrepont's,  built  at  the 
foot  of  a  hill  out  of  the  castle  ruins.  We  all  alighted  in 
the  highway  to  drink  at  a  crystal  spring,  which  they  call 
Robin  Hood's  Well ;  near  it,  is  a  stone  chair,  and  an  iron 
ladle  to  drink  out  of,  chained  to  the  seat.  We  rode  to 
Tadcaster,  at  the  side  of  which  we  have  prospect  of  the 
Archbishop's  Palace  (which  is  a  noble  seat),  and  in  sight 
of  divers  other  gentlemen's  fair  houses.  This  tract  is  a 
goodly,  fertile,  well-watered,  and  wooded  country,  abound- 
ing with  pasture  and  plenty  of  provisions. 

To  York,  the  second  city  of  England,  fairly  walled,  of 
a  circular  form,  watered  by  the  brave  river  Ouse,  bear- 
ing vessels   of  considerable  burden  on   it;   over  it  is  a. 


i654  JOHN   EVELYN  297 

stone  bridge  emulating  that  of  London,  and  built  on; 
the  middle  arch  is  larger  than  any  I  have  seen  in  Eng- 
land, with  a  wharf  of  hewn  stone,  which  makes  the  river 
appear  very  neat.  But  most  remarkable  and  worth  see- 
ing is  St.  Peter's  Cathedral,  which  of  all  the  great 
churches  in  England  had  been  best  preserved  from  the 
fury  of  the  sacrilegious,  by  composition  with  the  Rebels 
when  they  took  the  city,  during  the  many  incursions  of 
Scotch  and  others.  It  is  a  most  entire  magnificent  piece 
of  Gothic  architecture.  The  screen  before  the  choir  is  of 
stone  carved  with  flowers,  running  work  and  statues  of 
the  old  kings.  Many  of  the  monuments  are  very  ancient. 
Here,  as  a  great  rarity  in  these  days  and  at  this  time, 
they  showed  me  a  Bible  and  Common  Prayer  Book  cov- 
ered with  crimson  velvet,  and  richly  embossed  with  silver 
gilt ;  also  a  service  for  the  altar  of  gilt  wrought  plate,  flag- 
ons, basin,  ewer,  plates,  chalices,  patins,  etc.,  with  a  gor- 
geous covering  for  the  altar  and  pulpit,  carefully  preserved 
in  the  vestry,  in  the  hollow  wall  whereof  rises  a  plentiful 
spring  of  excellent  water,  I  got  up  to  the  tower,  whence 
we  had  a  prospect  toward  Durham,  and  could  see  Ripon, 
part  of  Lancashire,  the  famous  and  fatal  Marston  Moor, 
the  Spas  of  Knaresborough,  and  all  the  environs  of  that 

admirable  country.     Sir  Ingoldsby  has  here  a  large 

house,  gardens,  and  tennis  court;  also  the  King's  house 
and  church  near  the  castle,  which  was  modernly  fortified 
with  a  palisade  and  bastions.  The  streets  are  narrow 
and  ill-paved,  the  shops  like  London. 

1 8th  August,  1654.  We  went  to  Beverley,  a  large  town 
with  two  stately  churches,  St.  John's  and  St.  Mary's,  not 
much  inferior  to  the  best  of  our  cathedrals.  Here  a 
very  old  woman  showed  us  the  monuments,  and,  being 
above  100  years  of  age,  spoke  the  language  of  Queen 
Mary's  days,  in  whose  time  she  was  born;  she  was 
widow  of  a  sexton  who  had  belonged  to  the  church  a 
hundred  years. 

Hence,  we  passed  through  a  fenny  but  rich  country  to 
Hull,  situated  like  Calais,  modernly  and  strongly  fortified 
with  three  block-houses  of  brick  and  earth.  It  has  a 
good  market  place  and  harbor  for  ships.  Famous  also 
(or  rather  infamous)  is  this  town  for  Hotham's  refusing 
entrance  to  his  Majesty.  The  water-house  is  worth  see- 
ing.    And  here  ends  the  south  of  Yorkshire. 


298  DIARY  OF  LINCOLN 

19th  August,  1654.  We  pass  the  Humber,  an  arm  of 
the  sea  of  about  two  leagues  breadth.  The  weather  was 
bad,  but  we  crossed  it  in  a  good  barge  to  Barton,  the 
first  town  in  that  part  of  Lincolnshire.  All  marsh  ground 
till  we  came  to  Brigg,  famous  for  the  plantations  of 
licorice,  and  then  had  brave  pleasant  riding  to  Lincoln, 
much  resembling  Salisbury  Plain.  Lincoln  is  an  old  con- 
fused town,  very  long,  uneven,  steep,  and  ragged;  for- 
merly full  of  good  houses,  especially  churches  and  ab- 
beys. The  Minster  almost  comparable  to  that  of  York 
itself,  abounding  with  marble  pillars,  and  having  a  fair 
front  (herein  was  interred  Queen  Eleanora,  the  loyal 
and  loving  wife  who  sucked  the  poison  out  of  her 
husband's  wound) ;  the  abbot  founder,  with  rare  carving 
in  the  stone;  the  great  bell,  or  Tom,  as  they  call  it.  I 
went  up  the  steeple,  from  whence  is  a  goodly  prospect 
all  over  the  country.  The  soldiers  had  lately  knocked 
off  most  of  the  brasses  from  the  gravestones,  so  as  few 
inscriptions  were  left;  they  told  us  that  these  men  went 
in  with  axes  and  hammers,  and  shut  themselves  in,  till 
they  had  rent  and  torn  off  some  barge  loads  of  metal, 
not  sparing  even  the  monuments  of  the  dead;  so  hellish 
an  avarice  possessed  them:  beside  which,  they  exceed- 
ingly ruined  the  city. 

Here,  I  saw  a  tall  woman  six  feet  two  inches  high, 
comely,  middle-aged,  and  well-proportioned,  who  kept  a 
very  neat  and  clean  alehouse,  and  got  most  by  people's 
coming  to  see  her  on  account  of  her  height. 

20th  August,  1654.  From  hence  we  had  a  most  pleas- 
ant ride  over  a  large  heath  open  like  Salisbury  Plain,  to 
Grantham,  a  pretty  town,  so  well  situated  on  the  side  of 
a  bottom  which  is  large  and  at  a  distance  environed 
with  ascending  grounds,  that  for  pleasure  I  consider  it 
comparable  to  most  inland  places  of  England;  famous  is 
the  steeple  for  the  exceeding  height  of  the  shaft,  which 
is  of  stone. 

About  eighteen  miles  south,  we  pass  by  a  noble  seat, 
and  see  Boston  at  a  distance.  Here,  we  came  to  a  parish 
of  which  the  parson  had  tithe  ale. 

Thence  through  Rutland,  we  brought  night  to  Horning- 
hold,  from  whence  I  set  out  on  this  excursion. 

2 2d  August,  1654.  I  went  a  setting  and  hawking,  where 
we  had  tolerable  sport. 


1 654  JOHN  EVELYN  299 

25th  August,  1654.  To  see  Kirby,  a  very  noble  house 
of  my  Lord  Hatton's,  in  Northamptonshire,  built  ^  la 
moderne;  the  garden  and  stables  agreeable,  but  the 
avenue  ungraceful,  and  the  seat  naked:  returned  that 
evening, 

27th  August,  1654.  Mr.  AUington  preached  an  excel- 
lent discourse  from  Romans  vi.  19.  This  was  he  who 
published  those  bold  sermons  of  the  members  warring 
against  the  mind,  or  the  Jews  crucifying  Christ,  applied 
to  the  wicked  regicides;  for  which  he  was  ruined.  We 
had  no  sermon  in  the  afternoon. 

30th  August,  1654.  Taking  leave  of  my  friends,  who 
had  now  feasted  me  more  than  a  month,  I,  with  my 
wife,  etc.,  set  our  faces  toward  home,  and  got  this  eve- 
ning to  Peterborough,  passing  by  a  stately  palace 
(Thorpe)  of  St.  John's  (one  deep  in  the  blood  of  our  good 
king),  built  out  of  the  ruins  of  the  Bishop's  palace  and 
cloister.  The  church  is  exceeding  fair,  full  of  monu- 
ments of  great  antiquity.  Here  lies  Queen  Catherine, 
the  unhappy  wife  of  Henry  VIH.,  and  the  no  less  un- 
fortunate Mary,  Queen  of  Scots.  On  the  steeple,  we 
viewed  the  fens  of  Lincolnshire,  now  much  inclosed  and 
drained  with  infinite  expense,  and  by  many  sluices,  cuts, 
mounds,  and  ingenious  mills,  and  the  like  inventions; 
at  which  the  city  and  country  about  it  consisting 
of  a  poor  and  very  lazy  sort  of  people,  were  much 
displeased. 

Peterborough  is  a  handsome  town,  and  hath  another 
well-built  church. 

31st  August,  1654.  Through  part  of  Huntingdonshire, 
we  passed  that  town,  fair  and  ancient,  a  river  running 
by  it.  The  country  about  it  so  abounds  in  wheat  that, 
when  any  King  of  England  passes  through  it,  they 
have  a  custom  to  meet  him  with  a  hundred  plows. 

This  evening,  to  Cambridge;  and  went  first  to  St. 
John's  College,  well  built  of  brick,  and  library,  which  I 
think  is  the  fairest  of  that  University.  One  Mr.  Ben- 
lowes  has  given  it  all  the  ornaments  of  pietra  commessa* 
whereof  a  table  and  one  piece  of  perspective  is  very 
fine ;  other  trifles  there  also  be  of  no  great  value,  besides 
a  vast  old  song-book,  or  Service,  and  some  fair  manu- 
scripts.    There  hangs   in   the  library  the  picture  of  John 

•Marble,  inlaid  of  various  colors,  representing  flowers,  birds,  etc. 


300  DIARY  OF  Cambridge 

Williams,  Archbishop  of  York,  sometime  Lord  Keeper, 
my  kinsman,  and  their  great  benefactor. 

Trinity  College  is  said  by  some  to  be  the  fairest  quad- 
rangle of  any  university  in  Europe;  but  in  truth  is  far 
inferior  to  that  of  Christ  Church,  in  Oxford;  the  hall  is 
ample  and  of  stone,  the  fountain  in  the  quadrangle  is 
graceful,  the  chapel  and  library  fair.  There  they  showed 
us  the  prophetic  manuscript  of  the  famous  Grebner,  but 
the  passage  and  emblem  which  they  would  apply  to  our 
late  King,  is  manifestly  relating  to  the  Swedish ;  in  truth, 
it  seems  to  be  a  mere  fantastic  rhapsody,  however  the 
title  may  bespeak  strange  revelations.  There  is  an  office 
in  manuscript  with  fine  miniatures,  and  some  other  an- 
tiquities, given  by  the  Countess  of  Richmond,  mother 
of  Henry  VIII.,  and  the  before-mentioned  Archbishop 
Williams,  when  Bishop  of  Lincoln.  The  library  is  pretty 
well  stored.  The  Greek  Professor  had  me  into  another 
large  quadrangle  cloistered  and  well  built,  and  gave  us 
a  handsome  collation  in  his  own  chamber. 

Thence  to  Caius,  and  afterward  to  King's  College,  where 
I  found  the  chapel  altogether  answered  expectation,  es- 
pecially the  roof,  all  of  stone,  which  for  the  flatness  of 
its  laying  and  carving  may,  I  conceive,  vie  with  any  in 
Christendom,  The  contignation  of  the  roof  (which  I  went 
upon),  weight,  and  artificial  joining  of  the  stones  is  ad- 
mirable. The  lights  are  also  very  fair.  In  one  aisle  lies 
the  famous  Dr.  Collins,  so  celebrated  for  his  fluency  in 
the  Latin  tongue.  From  this  roof  we  could  descry  Ely, 
and  the  encampment  of  Sturbridge  fair  now  beginning 
to  set  up  their  tents  and  booths;  also  Royston,  Newmar- 
ket, etc.,  houses  belonging  to  the  King.  The  library  is 
too  narrow. 

Clare -Hall  is  of  a  new  and  noble  design,  but  not  finished. 

Peter-House,  formerly  under  the  government  of  my 
worthy  friend,  Dr.  Joseph  Cosin,  Dean  of  Peterborough ; 
a  pretty  neat  college,  having  a  delicate  chapel.  Next  to 
Sidney,  a  fine  college. 

Catherine-Hall,  though  a  mean  structure,  is  yet  famous 
for  the  learned  Bishop  Andrews,  once  Master.  Emanuel 
College,  that  zealous  house,  where  to  the  hall  they  have 
a  parlor  for  the  Fellows.  The  chapel  is  reformed,  ab 
originc,  built  north  and  south,  and  meanly  erected,  as  is 
the  library. 


i6s4  JOHN   EVELYN  301 

Jesus- College,  one  of  the  best  built,  but  in  a  melan- 
choly situation.  Next  to  Christ-College,  a  very  noble 
erection,  especially  the  modern  part,  built  without  the 
quadrangle  toward  the  gardens,  of  exact  architecture. 

The  Schools  are  very  despicable,  and  Public  Library 
but  mean,  though  somewhat  improved  by  the  wainscot, 
ing  and  books  lately  added  by  the  Bishop  Bancroft's 
library  and  MSS.  They  showed  us  little  of  antiquity, 
only  King  James's  Works,  being  his  own  gift,  and  kept 
very  reverently. 

The  market  place  is  very  ample,  and  remarkable  for 
old  Hobson,  the  pleasant  carrier's  beneficence  of  a  foun- 
tain.* But  the  whole  town  is  situate  in  a  low,  dirty,  un- 
pleasant place,  the  streets  ill-paved,  the  air  thick  and 
infected  by  the  fens,  nor  are  its  churches,  (of  which  St, 
Mary's  is  the  best)  anything  considerable  in  compare  to 
Oxford,  f 

From  Cambridge,  we  went  to  Audley-End,  and  spent 
some  time  in  seeing  that  goodly  place  built  by  Howard, 
Earl  of  SuflEolk,  once  Lord  Treasurer.  It  is  a  mixed 
fabric,  between  antique  and  modem,  but  observable  for 
its  being  completely  finished,  and  without  comparison  is 
one  of  the  stateliest  palaces  in  the  kingdom.  It  consists 
of  two  courts,  the  first  very  large,  winged  with  cloisters. 
The  front  had  a  double  entrance;  the  hall  is  fair,  but 
somewhat  too  small  for  so  august  a  pile.  The  kitchen  is 
very  large,  as  are  the  cellars,  arched  with  stone,  very 
neat  and  well  disposed;  these  offices  are  joined  by  a  wing 
out  of  the  way  very  handsomely.  The  gallery  is  the 
most  cheerful  and  I  think  one  of  the  best  in  England ;  a 
fair  dining-room,  and  the  rest  of  the  lodgings  answerable, 
with  a  pretty  chapel.  The  gardens  are  not  in  order, 
though  well  inclosed.  It  has  also  a  bowling-alley,  a  noble 
well-walled,  wooded  and  watered  park,  full  of  fine  collines 
and  ponds:  the  river  glides  before  the  palace,  to  which 
is  an  avenue  of  lime  trees,  but  all  this  is  much  diminished 
by  its  being  placed  in  an  obscure  bottom.  For  the  rest, 
is  a  perfectly  uniform  structure,  and  shows  without 
like  a  diadem,  by  the  decorations  of  the  cupolas  and 
other  ornaments  on  the  pavilions;  instead  of  rails  and 
balusters,    there   is   a   border    of   capital   letters,    as    was 

*  A  conduit  it  should  rather  be  called. 

t  The  reader  must  remember  that  an  Oxford  man  is  speaking. 


302  DIARY  OF  London 

lately  also  on  Suffolk- House,  near  Charing-Cross,  built 
by  the  same  Lord  Treasurer. 

This  house  stands  in  the  parish  of  Saffron  Walden, 
famous  for  the  abundance  of  saffron  there  cultivated,  and 
esteemed  the  best  of  any  foreign  country. 

3d  October,  1654.  Having  dined  here,  we  passed 
through  Bishop  Stortford,  a  pretty  watered  town,  and  so 
by  London,  late  home  to  Sayes  Court,  after  a  journey  of 
700  miles,  but  for  the  variety  an  agreeable  refreshment 
after  my  turmoil  and  building. 

loth  October,  1654.  To  my  brother  at  Wotton,  who 
had  been  sick. 

14th  October,  1654.  I  went  to  visit  my  noble  friend 
Mr.  Hyldiard,  where  I  met  that  learned  gentleman,  my 
Lord  Aungier,  and  Dr.  Stokes,  one  of  his  Majesty's 
chaplains. 

15th  October,  1654.  To  Betch worth  Castle,  to  Sir  Am- 
brose Browne,  and  other  gentlemen  of  my  sweet  and 
native  country. 

24th  October,  1654.  The  good  old  parson,  Higham, 
preached  at  Wotton  Church:  a  plain  preacher,  but  inno- 
cent and  honest  man. 

23d  November,  1654.  I  went  to  London,  to  visit  my 
cousin  Fanshawe,  and  this  day  I  saw  one  of  the  rarest 
collections  of  agates,  onyxes,  and  intaglios,  that  I  had 
ever  seen  either  at  home  or  abroad,  collected  by  a  con- 
ceited old  hatmaker  in  Blackfriars,  especially  one  agate 
vase,  heretofore  the  great  Earl  of  Leicester's. 

28th  November,  1654.  Came  Lady  Langham,  a  kins- 
woman of  mine,  to  visit  us;  also  one  Captain  Cooke, 
esteemed  the  best  singer,  after  the  Italian  manner,  of 
any  in  England;  he  entertained  us  with  his  voice  and 
theorbo. 

30th  November,  1654.  My  birthday,  being  the  34th 
year  of  my  age:  blessing  God  for  his  providence,  I  went 
to  London  to  visit  my  brother. 

3d  December  1654.  Advent  Sunday.  There  being  no 
Office  at  the  church  but  extemporary  prayers  after  the 
Presbyterian  way,  for  now  all  forms  were  prohibited,  and 
most  of  the  preachers  were  usurpers,  I  seldom  went  to 
church  upon  solemn  feasts;  but,  either  went  to  London, 
where  some  of  the  orthodox  sequestered  divines  did 
privately  use  the  Common  Prayer,  administer  sacraments, 


1654-55  JOHN  EVELYN  303 

etc.,  or  else  I  procured  one  to  officiate  in  my  house; 
wherefore,  on  the  loth,  Dr.  Richard  Owen,  the  sequest- 
ered minister  of  Eltham,  preached  to  my  family  in  my 
library,  and  gave  us  the  Holy  Communion. 

25th  December,  1654.  Christmas  day.  No  public  offices 
in  churches,  but  penalties  on  observers,  so  as  I  was  con- 
strained to  celebrate  it  at  home. 

ist  January,  1654-55.  Having  with  my  family  performed 
the  public  offices  of  the  day,  and  begged  a  blessing  on 
the.  year  I  was  now  entering,  I  went  to  keep  the  rest  of 
Christmas  at  my  brother's,   R.   Evelyn,  at  Woodcot. 

19th  January,  1655.  My  wife  was  brought  to  bed  of 
another  son,  being  my  third,  but  second  living.  Chris- 
tened on  the  26th  by  the  name  of  John. 

28th  January,  1655.  A  stranger  preached  from  Colos- 
sians  iii.  2,  inciting  our  affections  to  the  obtaining  heav- 
enly things.  I  understood  afterward  that  this  man  had 
been  both  chaplain  and  lieutenant  to  Admiral  Penn, 
using  both  swords ;  whether  ordained  or  not  I  cannot  say ; 
into  such  times  were  we  fallen  ! 

24th  February,  1655.  I  was  showed  a  table  clock  whose 
balance  was  only  a  crystal  ball,  sliding  on  parallel  wires, 
without  being  at  all  fixed,  but  rolling  from  stage  to  stage 
till  falling  on  a  spring  concealed  from  sight,  it  was 
thrown  up  to  the  utmost  channel  again,  made  with  an 
imperceptible  declivity,  in  this  continual  vicissitude  of 
motion  prettily  entertaining  the  eye  every  half  minute, 
and  the  next  half  giving  progress  to  the  hand  that  showed 
the  hour,  and  giving  notice  by  a  small  bell,  so  as  in  120 
half  minutes,  or  periods  of  the  bullet's  falling  on  the 
ejaculatory  spring,  the  clock  part  struck.  This  very  ex- 
traordinary piece  (richly  adorned)  had  been  presented  by 
some  German  prince  to  our  late  king,  and  was  now  in 
the  possession  of  the  usurper;  valued  at  ;^2oo. 

2d  March,  1655.  Mr.  Simpson,  the  King's  jeweler, 
showed  me  a  most  rich  agate  cup,  of  an  escalop-shape,  and 
having  a  figure  of  Cleopatra  at  the  scroll,  her  body,  hair, 
mantle,  and  veil,  of  the  several  natural  colors.  It  was 
supported  by  a  half  Mark  Antony,  the  colors  rarely 
natural,  and  the  work  truly  antique,  but  I  conceived 
they  were  of  several  pieces ;  had  they  been  all  of  one 
stone,  it  were  invaluable. 

1 8th    March,    1655.      Went  to   London,    on  purpose   to 


304  t)IARY    OF  ALBURY 

hear  that  excellent  preacher,  Dr.  Jeremy  Taylor,  on  Matt, 
xiv.  17,  showing  what  were  the  conditions  of  obtaining 
eternal  life;  also,  concerning  abatements  for  unavoidable 
infirmities,  how  cast  on  the  accounts  of  the  cross.  On  the 
31st,  I  made  a  visit  to  Dr.  Jeremy  Taylor,  to  confer  with 
him  about  some  spiritual  matters,  using  him  thencefor- 
ward as  my  ghostly  father.  I  beseech  God  Almighty  to 
make  me  ever  mindful  of,  and  thankful  for,  his  heavenly 
assistances ! 

2d  April,  1655.  This  was  the  first  week,  that,  my 
uncle  Pretyman  being  parted  with  his  family  from  me,  I 
began  housekeeping,  till  now  sojourning  with  him  in  my 
own  house. 

9th  April,  1655.  I  went  to  see  the  great  ship  newly 
built  by  the  usurper,  Oliver,  carrying  ninety-six  brass 
guns,  and  1,000  tons  burden.  In  the  prow  was  Oliver  on 
horseback,  trampling  six  nations  under  foot,  a  Scot,  Irish- 
man, Dutchman,  Frenchman,  Spaniard,  and  English,  as 
was  easily  made  out  by  their  several  habits.  A  Fame  held 
a  laurel  over  his  insulting  head;  the  word,  God  with  us. 

15th  April,  1655.  I  went  to  London  with  my  family,  to 
celebrate  the  feast  of  Easter.  Dr.  Wild  preached  at  St. 
Gregory's;  the  ruling  Powers  conniving  at  the  use  of  the 
Liturgy,  etc.,  in  the  church  alone.  In  the  afternoon,  Mr. 
Pierson  (since  Bishop  of  Chester)  preached  at  Eastcheap, 
but  was  disturbed  by  an  alarm  of  fire,  which  about  this 
time  was  very  frequent  in  the  city, 

29th  May,  1655.     I  sold  Preston  to  Colonel  Morley. 

17th  June,  1655.  There  was  a  collection  for  the  perse- 
cuted churches  and  Christians  in  Savoy,  remnants  of  the 
ancient  Albigenses. 

3d  July,  1655.  I  was  shown  a  pretty  Terella,  described 
with  all  the  circles,  and  showing  all  the  magnetic  deviations. 

14th  July,  1655.  Came  Mr.  Pratt,  my  old  acquaintance 
at  Rome,  also  Sir  Edward  Hales,  Sir  Joseph  Tufton,  with 
Mr.  Seymour. 

ist  August,  1655,  I  went  to  Dorking,  to  see  Mr.  Charles 
Howard's  amphitheater,  garden,  or  solitary  recess,  being 
fifteen  acres  environed  by  a  hill.  He  showed  us  divers 
rare  plants,  caves,  and  an  elaboratory. 

loth  August,  1655.  To  Albury,  to  visit  Mr.  Howard, 
who  had  begun  to  build,  and  alter  the  gardens  much. 
He  showed  me  many  rare  pictures,  particularly  the  Moor 


i655  JOHN   EVELYN  305 

on  horseback;  Erasmus,  as  big  as  the  life,  by  Holbein;  a 
Madonna,  in  miniature,  by  Oliver ;  but,  above  all,  the  skull, 
carved  in  wood,  by  Albert  Durer,  for  which  his  father  was 
offered  ^100;  also  Albert's  head,  by  himself,  with  divers 
rare  agates,  intaglios,  and  other  curiosities. 

2 1  St  August,  1655.  I  went  to  Ryegate,  to  visit  Mrs. 
Gary,  at  my  Lady  Peterborough's,  in  an  ancient  monastery 
well  in  repair,  but  the  park  much  defaced;  the  house  is 
nobly  furnished.  The  chimney-piece  in  the  great  chamber, 
carved  in  wood,  was  of  Henry  VIH.,  and  was  taken  from 
a  house  of  his  in  Bletchingley.  At  Ryegate,  was  now 
the  Archbishop  of  Armagh,  the  learned  James  Usher, 
whom  I  went  to  visit.  He  received  me  exceeding  kindly. 
In  discourse  with  him,  he  told  me  how  great  the  loss  of 
time  was  to  study  much  the  Eastern  languages;  that,  ex- 
cepting Hebrew,  there  was  little  fruit  to  be  gathered  of 
exceeding  labor ;  that,  besides  some  mathematical  books, 
the  Arabic  itself  had  little  considerable;  that  the  best 
text  was  the  Hebrew  Bible ;  that  the  Septuagint  was  fin- 
ished in  seventy  days,  but  full  of  errors,  about  which  he 
was  then  writing;  that  St.  Hierome's  was  to  be  valued 
next  the  Hebrew;  also  that  the  seventy  translated  the 
Pentateuch  only,  the  rest  was  finished  by  others ;  that  the 
Italians  at  present  understood  but  little  Greek,  and  Kircher 
was  a  mountebank;  that  Mr.  Selden's  best  book  was  his 
*  Titles  of  Honor  * ;  that  the  church  would  be  destroyed 
by  sectaries,  who  would  in  all  likelihood  bring  in  Popery. 
In  conclusion  he  recommended  to  me  the  study  of  phi- 
lology, above  all  human  studies ;  and  so,  with  his  blessing, 
I  took  my  leave  of  this  excellent  person,  and  returned  to 
Wotton. 

27th  August,  1655.  I  went  to  Boxhill,  to  see  those  rare 
natural  bowers,  cabinets,  and  shady  walks  in  the  box 
copses:  hence  we  walked  to  Mickleham,  and  saw  Sir  F. 
Stidolph's  seat,  environed  with  elm  trees  and  walnuts  in- 
numerable, and  of  which  last  he  told  us  they  received  a 
considerable  revenue.  Here  are  such  goodly  walks  and 
hills  shaded  with  yew  and  box,  as  render  the  place  ex- 
tremely agreeable,  it  seeming  from  these  evergreens  to 
be  summer  all  the  winter. 

28th  August,  1655.  Game  that  renowned  mathematician, 
Mr.  Oughtred,  to  see  me,  I  sending  my  coach  to  bring  him 
to  Wotton,  being  now  very  aged.     Among  other  discourse, 


3o6  DIARY  OF  London 

he  told  me  he  thought  water  to  be  the  philosopher's  first 
matter,  and  that  he  was  well  persuaded  of  the  possibility 
of  their  elixir;  he  believed  the  sun  to  be  a  material  fire, 
the  moon  a  continent,  as  appears  by  the  late  selenog- 
raphers;  he  had  strong  apprehensions  of  some  extraor- 
dinary event  to  happen  the  following  year,  from  the 
calculation  of  coincidence  with  the  diluvian  period;  and 
added  that  it  might  possibly  be  to  convert  the  Jews  by  our 
Savior's  visible  appearance,  or  to  judge  the  world;  and 
therefore,  his  word  was,  ^'^  Par  ate  in  occur  sum  *V  be  said 
original  sin  was  not  met  with  in  the  Greek  Fathers,  yet 
he  believed  the  thing;  this  was  from  some  discourse  on 
Dr.  Taylor's  late  book,  which  I  had  lent  him. 

1 6th  September,  1655.  Preached  at  St.  Gregory's  one 
Darnel,  on  Psalm  iv.  4,  concerning  the  benefit  of  self- 
examination;  more  learning  in  so  short  a  time  as  an 
HOUR  I  have  seldom  heard. 

17th  September,  1655.  Received  ;^  2,600  of  Mr.  Hurt, 
for  the  Manor  of  Warley  Magna,  in  Essex,  purchased  by 
me  some  time  since.  The  taxes  were  so  intolerable  that 
they  ate  up  the  rents,  etc.,  surcharged  as  that  county  had 
been  above  all  others  during  our  unnatural  war. 

19th  September,  1655.  Came  to  see  me  Sir  Edward 
Hales,  Mr.  Ashmole,  Mr.  Harlakenton,  and  Mr.  Thornhill: 
and,  the  next  day,  I  visited  Sir  Henry  Newton  at  Charl- 
ton, where  I  met  the  Earl  of  Winchelsea  and  Lady 
Beauchamp,  daughter  to  the  Lord  Capel. 

On  Sunday  afternoon,  I  frequently  staid  at  home  to 
catechize  and  instruct  my  family,  those  exercises  univer- 
sally ceasing  in  the  parish  churches,  so  as  people  had  no 
principles,  and  grew  very  ignorant  of  even  the  common 
points  of  Christianity;  all  devotion  being  now  placed  in 
hearing  sermons  and  discourses  of  speculative  and  na- 
tional things. 

26th  September,  1655.  I  went  to  see  Colonel  Blount's 
subterranean  warren,  and  drank  of  the  wine  of  his  vine- 
yard, which  was  good  for  little. 

30th  September,  1655.  Sir  Nicholas  Crisp  came  to  treat 
with  me  about  his  vast  design  of  a  mole  to  be  made  for 
ships  in  part  of  my  grounds  at  Sayes  Court. 

3d  November,  1655.  I  had  accidentally  discourse  with 
a  Persian  and  a  Greek  concerning  the  devastation  of  Po- 
land by  the  late  incursion  of  the  Swedes. 


1 65  5  JOHN  EVELYN  307 

27th  November,  1655.  To  London  about  Sir  Nicholas 
Crisp's  designs. 

I  went  to  see  York  House  and  gardens,  belonging  to  the 
former  great  Buckingham,  but  now  much  ruined  through 
neglect. 

Thence,  to  visit  honest  and  learned  Mr.  Hartlib,  a  pub- 
lic spirited  and  ingenious  person,  who  had  propagated 
many  useful  things  and  arts.  He  told  me  of  the  castles 
which  they  set  for  ornament  on  their  stoves  in  Germany 
(he  himself  being  a  Lithuanian,  as  I  remember),  which 
are  furnished  with  small  ordnance  of  silver  on  the  bat- 
tlements, out  of  which  they  discharge  excellent  perfumes 
about  the  rooms,  charging  them  with  a  little  powder  to 
set  them  on  fire,  and  disperse  the  smoke:  and  in  truth 
no  more  than  need,  for  their  stoves  are  suflBciently  nasty. 
He  told  me  of  an  ink  that  would  give  a  dozen  copies, 
moist  sheets  of  paper  being  pressed  on  it;  and  remain 
perfect;  and  a  receipt  how  to  take  off  any  print  without 
the  least  injury  to  the  original.  This  gentleman  was 
master  of  innumerable  curiosities,  and  very  communica- 
tive. I  returned  home  that  evening  by  water;  and  was 
afflicted  for  it  with  a  cold  that  had  almost  killed  me. 

This  day,  came  forth  the  Protector's  Edict,  or  Procla- 
mation, prohibiting  all  ministers  of  the  Church  of  Eng- 
land from  preaching  or  teaching  any  schools,  in  which 
he  imitated  the  apostate,  Julian;  with  the  decimation  of 
all  the  royal  party's  revenues  throughout  England. 

14th  December,  1655.  I  \'isited  Mr.  Hobbes,  the  fa- 
mous philosopher  of  Malmesbury,  with  whom  I  had  been 
long  acquainted  in  France. 

Now  were  the  Jews  admitted. 

25th  December,  1655.  There  was  no  more  notice  taken 
of  Christmas-day  in  churches. 

I  went  to  London,  where  Dr.  Wild  preached  the  fun- 
eral sermon  of  Preaching,  this  being  the  last  day;  after 
which  Cromwell's  proclamation  was  to  take  place,  that 
none  of  the  Church  of  England  should  dare  either  to 
preach,  or  administer  Sacraments,  teach  schools,  etc.,  on 
pain  of  imprisonment,  or  exile.  So  this  was  the  most 
mournful  day  that  in  my  life  I  had  seen,  or  the  Church 
of  England  herself,  since  the  Reformation;  to  the  great 
rejoicing  of  both    Papist    and    Presbyter.*      So    pathetic 

*  The  text  was  2  Cor.   xiii   9.      That,   however  persecution  dealt 


3o8  DIARY  OF  London 

was  his  discourse,  that  it  drew  many  tears  from  the 
auditory.  Myself,  wife,  and  some  of  our  family,  re- 
ceived the  Communion,  God  make  me  thankful,  who 
hath  hitherto  provided  for  us  the  food  of  our  souls  as 
well  as  bodies!  The  Lord  Jesus  pity  our  distressed 
Church,  and  bring  back  the  captivity  of  Zion! 

5th  January,  1655-56.  Came  to  visit  me  my  Lord  Lisle, 
son  to  the  Earl  of  Leicester,  with  Sir  Charles  Ouseley, 
two  of  the  Usurper's  council;  Mr.  John  Hervey,  and 
John  Denham,  the  poet. 

1 8th  January,  1656.  Went  to  Eltham  on  foot,  being  a 
great  frost,  but  a  mist  falling  as  I  returned,  gave  me 
such  a  rheum  as  kept  me  within  doors  near  a  whole 
month  after. 

5th  February,  1656.  Was  shown  me  a  pretty  perspec- 
tive and  well  represented  in  a  triangfular  box,  the  great 
Church  of  Haarlem  in  Holland,  to  be  seen  through  a 
small  hole  at  one  of  the  corners,  and  contrived  into  a 
handsome  cabinet.  It  was  so  rarely  done,  that  all  the 
artists  and  painters  in  town  flocked  to  see  and  admire  it, 

loth  February,  1656.  I  heard  Dr.  Wilkins  preach  be- 
fore the  Lord  Mayor  in  St.  Paul's,  showing  how  obedi- 
ence was  preferable  to  sacrifice.  He  was  a  most  obliging 
person,  who  had  married  the  Protector's  sister,  and  took 
great  pains  to  preserve  the  Universities  from  the  ignorant, 
sacrilegious  commanders  and  soldiers,  who  would  fain 
have  demolished  all  places  and  persons  that  pretended 
to  learning. 

nth  February,  1656.  I  ventured  to  go  to  Whitehall, 
where  of  many  years  I  had  not  been,  and  found  it  very 
glorious  and  well  furnished,  as  far  as  I  could  safely  go, 
and  was  glad  to  find  they  had  not  much  defaced  that 
rare  piece  of  Henry  VII.,  etc.,  done  on  the  walls  of  the 
King's  privy  chamber. 

14th  February,  1656.  I  dined  with  Mr.  Berkeley,  son 
of  Lord  Berkeley,  of  Berkeley  Castle,  where  I  renewed 
my  acquaintance  with  my  Lord  Bruce,  my  fellow-traveler 
in  Italy. 

19th  February,  1656.  Went  with  Dr.  Wilkins  to  see 
Barlow,  the    famous  painter  of   fowls,  beasts,  and  birds. 

with  the  Ministers  of  God's  Word,  they  were  still  to  pray  for  the 
flock,  and  wish  their  perfection,  as  it  was  the  flock  to  pray  for  and 
assist  their  pastors,  by  the  example  of  St.  Paul. —  Evelyn's  Note. 


1656  JOHN   EVELYN  309 

4th  March,  1656.  This  night  I  was  invited  by  Mr. 
Roger  L'Estrange  to  hear  the  incomparable  Lubicer  on 
the  violin.  His  variety  on  a  few  notes  and  plain  ground, 
with  that  wonderful  dexterity,  was  admirable.  Though  a 
young  man,  yet  so  perfect  and  skillful,  that  there  was 
nothing,  however  cross  and  perplexed,  brought  to  him  by 
our  artists,  which  he  did  not  play  off  at  sight  with 
ravishing  sweetness  and  improvements,  to  the  astonish- 
ment of  our  best  masters.  In  sum,  he  played  on  the 
single  instrument  a  full  concert,  so  as  the  rest  flung  down 
their  instruments,  acknowledging  the  victory.  As  to 
my  own  particular,  I  stand  to  this  hour  amazed  that  God 
should  give  so  great  perfection  to  so  young  a  person. 
There  were  at  that  time  as  excellent  in  their  profession 
as  any  were  thought  to  be  in  Europe,  Paul  Wheeler,  Mr. 
Mell,  and  others,  till  this  prodigy  appeared.  I  can  no 
longer  question  the  effects  we  read  of  in  David's  harp  to 
charm  evil  spirits,  or  what  is  said  some  particular  notes 
produced  in  the  passions  of  Alexander,  and  that  King  of 
Denmark. 

12th  April,  1656.  Mr.  Berkeley  and  Mr.  Robert  Boyle 
(that  excellent  person  and  great  virtuoso).  Dr.  Taylor, 
and  Dr.  Wilkins,  dined  with  me  at  Sayes  Court,  when  I 
presented  Dr.  Wilkins  with  my  rare  burning-glass.  In  the 
afternoon,  we  all  went  to  Colonel  Blount's,  to  see  his 
newly-invented  plows. 

2 2d  April,  1656.  Came  to  see  Mr.  Henshaw  and  Sir 
William  Paston's  son,  since  Earl  of  Yarmouth.  After- 
ward, I  went  to  see  his  Majesty's  house  at  Eltham,  both 
palace  and  chapel  in  miserable  ruins,  the  noble  woods 
and  park  destroyed  by  Rich,  the  rebel. 

6th  May,  1656.  I  brought  Monsieur  le  Franc,  a  young 
French  Sorbonnist,  a  proselyte,  to  converse  with  Dr. 
Taylor;  they  fell  to  dispute  on  origfinal  sin,  in  Latin, 
upon  a  book  newly  published  by  the  Doctor,  who  was 
much  satisfied  with  the  young  man.  Thence,  to  see  Mr. 
Dugdale,  our  learned  antiquary  and  herald.  Returning, 
I  was  shown  the  three  vast  volumes  of  Father  Kircher's, 
*  Obeliscus  Pamphilius  '^  and  ^-^-jEgyptiacus  *^-  in  the  second 
volume  I  found  the  hieroglyphic  I  first  communicated  and 
sent  to  him  at  Rome  by  the  hands  of  Mr.  Henshaw, 
whom  he  mentions;  I  designed  it  from  the  stone  itself 
brought  me  to  Venice  from  Cairo  by  Captain  Powell. 


3IO  DIARY    OF  London 

7th  May,  1656.  I  visited  Dr.  Taylor,  and  prevailed  on 
him  to  propose  Monsieur  le  Franc  to  the  Bishop  that 
he  might  have  Orders,  I  having  sometime  before  brought 
him  to  a  full  consent  to  the  Church  of  England,  her  doc- 
trine and  discipline,  in  which  he  had  till  of  late  made 
some  difficulty;  so  he  was  this  day  ordained  both  deacon 
and  priest  by  the  Bishop  of  Meath.  I  paid  the  fees  to 
his  lordship,  who  was  very  poor  and  in  great  want;  to 
that  necessity  were  our  clergy  reduced !  In  the  afternoon 
I  met  Alderman  Robinson,  to  treat  with  Mr.  Papillion 
about  the  marriage  of  my  cousin,  George  Tuke,  with  Mrs. 
Fontaine. 

8th  May,  1656.  I  went  to  visit  Dr.  Wilkins,  at  White- 
hall, when  I  first  met  with  Sir  P.  Neal,  famous  for  his 
optic  glasses,  Greatorix,  the  mathematical  instrument 
maker,  showed  me  his  excellent  invention  to  quench  fire. 

12th  May,  1656.  Was  published  my  ^^  Essay  on  Lucre- 
tius,* with  innumerable  errata  by  the  negligence  of  Mr. 
Triplet,  who  undertook  the  correction  of  the  press  in  my 
absence.  Little  of  the  Epicurean  philosophy  was  then 
known  among  us. 

28th  May,  1656.  I  dined  with  Nieuport,  the  Holland 
Ambassador,  who  received  me  with  extraordinary  courtesy. 
I  found  him  a  judicious,  crafty,  and  wise  man.  He  gave 
me  excellent  cautions  as  to  the  danger  of  the  times,  and 
the  circumstances  our  nation  was  in.  I  remember  the 
observation  he  made  upon  the  ill  success  of  our  former 
Parliaments,  and  their  private  animosities,  and  little  care 
of  the  public. 

Came  to  visit  me  the  old  Marquis  of  Argyle  (since 
executed),  Lord  Lothian,  and  some  other  Scotch  noble- 
men, all  strangers  to  me.  Note,  the  Marquis  took  the 
turtle-doves  in  the  aviary  for  owls. 

The  Earl  of  Southampton  (since  Treasurer)  and  Mr. 
Spencer,  brother  to  the  Earl  of  Sunderland,  came  to  see 
my  garden. 

7th  July,  1656.  I  began  my  journey  to  see  some  parts 
of  the  northeast  of  England;  but  the  weather  was  so 
excessively  hot  and  dusty,  I  shortened  my  progress. 

8th  July,  1656.  To  Colchester,  a  fair  town,  but  now 
wretchedly  demolished  by  the  late  siege,  especially  the 
suburbs,  which  were  all  burned,  hut  were  then  repairing. 
The    town    is    built    on    a    rising    ground,    having    fair 


1656  JOHN   EVELYN  311 

meadows  on  one  side,  and  a  river  with  a  strong  ancient 
castle,  said  to  have  been  built  by  King  Coilus,  father  of 
Helena,  mother  of  Constantine  the  Great,  of  whom  I  find 
no  memory  save  at  the  pinnacle  of  one  of  their  wool- 
staple  houses,  where  is  a  statue  of  Coilus,  in  wood, 
wretchedly  carved.  The  walls  are  exceedingly  strong, 
deeply  trenched,  and  filled  with  earth.  It  has  six  gates, 
and  some  watchtowers,  and  some  handsome  churches. 
But  what  was  shown  us  as  a  kind  of  miracle,  at  the  out- 
side of  the  Castle,  the  wall  where  Sir  Charles  Lucas  and 
Sir  George  Lisle,  those  valiant  and  noble  persons  who 
so  bravely  behaved  themselves  in  the  last  siege,  were 
barbarously  shot,  murdered  by  Ireton  in  cold  blood,  after 
surrendering  on  articles ;  having  been  disappointed  of  re- 
lief from  the  Scotch  army,  which  had  been  defeated 
with  the  King  at  Worcester.  The  place  was  bare  of 
grass  for  a  large  space,  all  the  rest  of  it  abounding  with 
herbage.  For  the  rest,  this  is  a  ragged  and  factious 
town,  now  swarming  with  sectaries.  Their  trading  is  in 
cloth  with  the  Dutch,  and  baize  and  says  with  Spain;  it 
is  the  only  place  in  England  where  these  stuffs  are  made 
unsophisticated.  It  is  also  famous  for  oysters  and  eringo 
root,  growing  hereabout,  and  candied  for  sale. 

Went  to  Dedham,  a  pretty  country  town,  having  a 
very  fair  church,  finely  situated,  the  valley  well  watered. 
Here,  I  met  with  Dr.  Stokes,  a  young  gentleman,  but 
an  excellent  mathematician.  This  is  a  clothing  town,  as 
most  are  in  Essex,  but  lies  in  the  unwholesome  hun- 
dreds. 

Hence  to  Ipswich,  doubtless  one  of  the  sweetest,  most 
pleasant,  well-built  towns  in  England.  It  has  twelve 
fair  churches,  many  noble  houses,  especially  the  Lord 
Devereux's;  a  brave  quay,  and  commodious  harbor,  being 
about  seven  miles  from  the  main ;  an  ample  market  place. 
Here  was  bom  the  great  Cardinal  Wolsey,  who  began  a 
palace  here,  which  was  not  finished. 

I  had  the  curiosity  to  visit  some  Quakers  here  in  prison ; 
a  new  fanatic  sect,  of  dangerous  principles,  who  show  no 
respect  to  any  man,  magistrate,  or  other,  and  seem  a 
melancholy,  proud  sort  of  people,  and  exceedingly  igno- 
rant. One  of  these  was  said  to  have  fasted  twenty  days ; 
but  another,  endeavoring  to  do  the  like,  perished  on  the 
loth,  when  he  would  have  eaten,  but  could  not. 


3T2  DIARY   OF  LONDON 

loth  July,  1656.  I  returned  homeward,  passing  again 
through  Colchester;  and,  by  the  way,  near  the  ancient 
town  of  Chelmsford,  saw  New  Hall,  built  in  a  park  by 
Henry  VII.  and  VIII.,  and  given  by  Queen  Elizabeth  to 
the  Earl  of  Sussex,  who  sold  it  to  the  late  great  Duke  of 
Buckingham,  and  since  seized  on  by  Oliver  Cromwell 
(pretended  Protector).  It  is  a  fair  old  house,  built  with 
brick,  low,  being  only  of  two  stories,  as  the  manner  then 
was ;  the  gate-house  better ;  the  court,  large  and  pretty ;  the 
staircase,  of  extraordinary  wideness,  with  a  piece  repre- 
senting Sir  Francis  Drake's  action  in  the  year  1580,  an 
excellent  sea-piece;  the  galleries  are  trifling;  the  hall  is 
noble;  the  garden  a  fair  plot,  and  the  whole  seat  well 
accommodated  with  water;  but,  above  all,  I  admired  the 
fair  avenue  planted  with  stately  lime  trees,  in  four  rows, 
for  near  a  mile  in  length.  It  has  three  descents,  which 
is  the  only  fault,  and  may  be  reformed.  There  is  another 
fair  walk  of  the  same  at  the  mall  and  wilderness,  with  a 
tennis-court,  and  pleasant  terrace  toward  the  park,  which 
was  well  stored  with  deer  and  ponds. 

nth  July,  1656.  Came  home  by  Greenwich  ferry,  where 
I  saw  Sir  J.  Winter's  project  of  charring  sea-coal,  to  burn 
out  the  sulphur,  and  render  it  sweet.  He  did  it  by  burn- 
ing the  coals  in  such  earthen  pots  as  the  glass  men  melt 
their  metal,  so  firing  them  without  consuming  them,  using 
a  bar  of  iron  in  each  crucible,  or  pot,  which  bar  has  a 
hook  at  one  end,  that  so  the  coals  being  melted  in  a 
furnace  with  other  crude  sea-coals  under  them,  may  be 
drawn  out  of  the  pots  sticking  to  the  iron,  whence  they 
are  beaten  off  in  great  half-exhausted  cinders,  which  being 
rekindled,  make  a  clear,  pleasant  chamber-fire,  deprived 
of  their  sulphur  and  arsenic  malignity.  What  success  it 
may  have,  time  will  discover.* 

3d  August,  1656.  I  went  to  London,  to  receive  the 
Blessed  Sacrament,  the  first  time  the  Church  of  England 
was  reduced  to  a  chamber  and  conventicle ;  so  sharp  was 
the  persecution.  The  parish  churches  were  filled  with 
sectaries  of  all  sorts,  blasphemous  and  ignorant  mechanics 
usurping  the  pulpits  everywhere.     Dr.  Wild  preached  in  a 

*  Many  years  ago,  Lord  Dundonald  revived  the  project,  with  the  pro- 
posed improvement  of  extracting  and  saving  the  tar.  Unfortunately  he 
did  not  profit  by  it.  The  coal  thus  charred  is  sold  as  coke,  a  very 
useful  fuel  for  many  purposes. 


1656  JOHN  EVELYN  313 

private  house  in  Fleet  Street,  where  we  had  a  great  meet- 
ing of  zealous  Christians,  who  were  generally  much  more 
devout  and  religious  than  in  our  greatest  prosperity.  In 
the  afternoon,  I  went  to  the  French  Church  in  the  Savoy, 
where  I  heard  Monsieur  d'Espagne  catechize,  and  so 
returned  to  my  house. 

20th  August,  1656.  Was  a  confused  election  of  Parlia- 
ment called  by  the  Usurper. 

7th  September,  1656.  I  went  to  take  leave  of  my  ex- 
cellent neighbor  and  friend,  Sir.  H.  Newton  and  lady, 
now  going  to  dwell  at  Warwick;  and  Mr.  Needham,  my 
dear  and  learned  friend,  came  to  visit  me. 

14th  September,  1656.  Now  was  old  Sir  Henry  Vane* 
sent  to  Carisbrook  Castle,  in  Wight,  for  a  foolish  book 
he  published;  the  pretended  Protector  fortifying  himself 
exceedingly,  and  sending  many  to  prison. 

2d  October,  1656.  Came  to  visit  me  my  cousin,  Stephens, 
and  Mr.  Pierce  (since  head  of  Magdalen  College,  Oxford), 
a  learned  minister  of  Brington,  in  Northamptonshire,  and 
Captain  Cooke,  both  excellent  musicians. 

2d  November,  1656.  There  was  now  nothing  practical 
preached,  or  that  pressed  reformation  of  life,  but  high 
and  speculative  points  and  strains  that  few  understood, 
which  left  people  very  ignorant,  and  of  no  steady  princi- 
ples, the  source  of  all  our  sects  and  divisions,  for  there 
was  much  envy  and  uncharity  in  the  world;  God  of  his 
mercy  amend  it  !  Now,  indeed,  that  I  went  at  all  to 
church,  while  these  usurpers  possessed  the  pulpits,  was 
that  I  might  not  be  suspected  for  a  Papist,  and  that, 
though  the  minister  was  Presbyterianly  affected,  he  yet 
was  as  I  understood  duly  ordained,  and  preached  sound 
doctrine  after  their  way,  and  besides  was  an  humble, 
harmless,  and  peaceable  man. 

25th  December,  1656.  I  went  to  London,  to  receive  the 
Blessed  Communion,  this  holy  festival  at  Dr.  Wild's  lodg- 
ings, where  I  rejoiced  to  find  so  full  an  assembly  of 
devout  and  sober  Christians. 

*  Evelyn  means  the  younger  Vane.  This  was  <<  Vane,  young  in 
years,  but  in  sage  counsel  old,^^  the  nobleness  and  independence  of  whose 
character,  as  well  as  his  claims  to  the  affection  of  posterity,  are  not  ill 
expressed  in  the  two  facts  recorded  by  Evelyn  —  his  imprisonment  by 
Cromwell,  and  his  judicial  murder  by  Charles  II.  The  foolish  book  to 
which  Evelyn  refers  was  an  able  and  fearless  attack  on  Cromwell's 
government 


314  DIARY   OF  London 

26th  December,  1656.  I  invited  some  of  my  neighbors 
and  tenants,  according  to  custom,  and  to  preserve  hospi- 
tality and  charity. 

28th  December,  1656.  A  stranger  preached  on  Luke 
xviii.  7,  8,  on  which  he  made  a  confused  discourse,  with 
a  great  deal  of  Greek  and  ostentation  of  learning,  to  but 
little  purpose. 

30th  December,  1656.  Dined  with  me  Sir  William 
Paston's  son,  Mr.   Henshaw,   and  Mr.   Clayton. 

31st  December,  1656.  I  begged  God's  blessing  and 
mercies  for  his  goodness  to  me  the  past  year,  and  set  my 
domestic  affairs  in  order. 

ist  January,  1656-57.  Having  prayed  with  my  family,  and 
celebrated  the  anniversary,  I  spent  some  time  in  implor- 
ing God's  blessing  the  year  I  was  entered  into. 

7th  January,  1657.  Came  Mr.  Matthew  Wren  (since 
secretary  to  the  Duke),  slain  in  the  Dutch  war,  eldest 
son  to  the  Bishop  of  Ely,  now  a  prisoner  in  the  Tower; 
a  most  worthy  and  honored  gentleman. 

loth  January,  1657.  Came  Dr.  Joyliffe,  that  famous 
physician  and  anatomist,  first  detector  of  the  lymphatic 
veins ;  also  the  old  Marquis  of  Argyle,  and  another  Scotch 
Earl. 

5th  February,  1657.  Dined  at  the  Holland  Ambassa- 
dor's; he  told  me  the  East  India  Company  of  Holland 
had  constantly  a  stock  of  ^400,000  in  India,  and  forty- 
eight  men-of-war  there :  he  spoke  of  their  exact  and  just 
keeping  their  books  and  correspondence,  so  as  no  adven- 
turer's stock  could  possibly  be  lost,  or  defeated;  that  it 
was  a  vulgar  error  that  the  Hollanders  furnished  their 
enemies  with  powder  and  ammunition  for  their  money, 
though  engaged  in  a  cruel  war,  but  that  they  used  to 
merchandise  indiffierently,  and  were  permitted  to  sell  to 
the  friends  of  their  enemies.  He  laughed  at  our  Com- 
mittee of  Trade,  as  composed  of  men  wholly  ignorant  of 
it,  and  how  they  were  the  ruin  of  commerce,  by  grati- 
fying some  for  private  ends, 

loth  January,  1657.  I  went  to  visit  the  governor  of 
Havannah,  a  brave,  sober,  valiant  Spanish  gentleman, 
taken  by  Captain  Young,  of  Deptford,  when,  after  twenty 
years  being  in  the  Indies,  and  amassing  great  wealth, 
his  lady  and  whole  family,  except  two  sons,  were  burned, 
destroyed,  and  taken   within   sight  of   Spain,    his   eldest 


1656-57  JOHN   EVELYN  315 

son,  daughter,  and  wife,  perishing  with  immense  treas- 
ure. One  son,  of  about  seventeen  years  old,  with  his 
brother  of  one  year  old,  were  the  only  ones  saved.  The 
young  gentleman,  about  seventeen,  was  a  well-complex- 
ioned  youth,  not  olive-colored;  he  spoke  Latin  hand- 
somely, was  extremely  well-bred,  and  born  in  the  Caraccas, 
1,000  miles  south  of  the  equinoctial,  near  the  mountains 
of  Potosi;  he  had  never  been  in  Europe  before.  The 
Governor  was  an  ancient  gentleman  of  great  courage,  of 
the  order  of  St,  Jago,  sorely  wounded  in  his  arm,  and  his 
ribs  broken;  he  lost  for  his  own  share  ^100,000  sterling, 
which  he  seemed  to  bear  with  exceeding  indifference, 
and  nothing  dejected.  After  some  discourse,  I  went  with 
them  to  Arundel  House,  where  they  dined.  They  were 
now  going  back  into  Spain,  having  obtained  their  liberty 
from  Cromwell.     An  example  of  human  vicissitude! 

14th  January,  1657,  To  London,  where  I  found  Mrs. 
Cary ;  next  day  came  Mr.  Mordaunt  (since  Viscount  Mor- 
daunt),  younger  son  to  the  Countess  of  Peterborough,  to 
see  his  mistress,  bringing  with  him  two  of  my  Lord  of 
Dover's  daughters:  so,  after  dinner,  they  all   departed. 

5th  March,  1657.  Dr.  Rand,  -a  learned  physician,  dedi- 
cated to  me  his  version  of  Gassendi's  "  Vita  Peiriskii?^ 

25th  March,  1657.  Dr.  Taylor  showed  me  his  MS.  of 
**  Cases  of  Conscience,*  or  '•'•  Ductor  Dubitantiuin,^'*  now 
fitted  for  the  press. 

The  Protector  Oliver,  now  affecting  kingship,  is  peti- 
tioned to  take  the  title  on  him  by  all  his  newly-made 
sycophant  lords,  etc. ;  but  dares  not,  for  fear  of  the 
fanatics,  not  thoroughly  purged  out  of  his  rebel  army. 

2ist  April,  1657.  Came  Sir  Thomas  Hanmer,  of  Han- 
mer,  in  Wales,  to  see  me.  I  then  waited  on  my  Lord 
Hatton,  with  whom  I  dined:  at  my  return,  I  stepped  into 
Bedlam,  where  I  saw  several  poor,  miserable  creatures 
in  chains;  one  of  them  was  mad  with  making  verses.  I 
also  visited  the  Charter  House,  formerly  belonging  to 
the  Carthusians,  now  an  old,  neat,  fresh,  solitary  college 
for  decayed  gentlemen.  It  has  a  grove,  bowling  green, 
garden,  chapel,  and  a  hall  where  they  eat  in  common. 
I  likewise  saw  Christ  Church  and  Hospital,  a  very  good 
Gothic  building;  the  hall,  school,  and  lodgings  in  great 
order  for  bringing  up  many  hundreds  of  poor  children 
of  both  sexes;  it  is  an  exemplary  charity.     There  is  a 


3i6  DIARY  OF  London 

large  picture  at  one  end  of  the  hall,  representing  the 
governors,  founders,  and  the  institution. 

25th  April,  1657.  I  had  a  dangerous  fall  out  of  the 
coach  in  Covent  Garden,  going  to  my  brother's,  but  with- 
out harm ;  the  Lord  be  praised  ! 

I  St  May,  1657.  Divers  soldiers  were  quartered  at  my 
house;  but  I  thank  God  went  away  the  next  day  toward 
Flanders. 

5th  May,  1657.  I  went  with  my  cousin,  George  Tuke, 
to  see  Baynard,  in  Surrey,  a  house  of  my  brother  Rich- 
ard's, which  he  would  have  hired.  This  is  a  very  fair, 
noble  residence,  built  in  a  park,  and  having  one  of  the 
goodliest  avenues  of  oaks  up  to  it  that  ever  I  saw:  there 
is  a  pond  of  60  acres  near  it;  the  windows  of  the  chief 
rooms  are  of  very  fine  painted  glass.  The  situation  is 
excessively  dirty  and  melancholy. 

15th  May,  1657.  Lawrence,  President  of  Oliver's  Coun- 
cil, and  some  other  of  his  Court- Lords,  came  in  the 
afternoon  to  see  my  garden  and  plantations. 

7th  June,  1657.  My  fourth  son  was  bom,  christened 
George  (after  my  grandfather);  Dr.  Jeremy  Taylor  offi- 
ciated in  the  drawing-room. 

i8th  June,  1657.  At  Greenwich  I  saw  a  sort  of  cat"" 
brought  from  the  East  Indies,  shaped  and  snouted  much 
like  the  Egyptian  racoon,  in  the  body  like  a  monkey, 
and  so  footed;  the  ears  and  tail  like  a  cat,  only  the  tail 
much  longer,  and  the  skin  variously  ringed  with  black 
and  white;  with  the  tail  it  wound  up  its  body  like  a 
serpent,  and  so  got  up  into  trees,  and  with  it  would  wrap 
its  whole  body  round.  Its  hair  was  woolly  like  a  lamb; 
it  was  exceedingly  nimble,  gentle,  and  purred  as  does  the  cat. 

i6th  July,  1657.  On  Dr.  Jeremy  Taylor's  recommen- 
dation, I  went  to  Eltham,  to  help  one  Moody,  a  young 
man,  to  that  living,  by  my  interest  with  the  patron. 

6th  August,  1657.  I  went  to  see  Colonel  Blount,  who 
showed  me  the   application  of  the  way  wiser  f  to  a  coach, 

*This  was  probably  the  animal  called  a  Mocock  {maucaco),  since 
well  known. 

fBeckmann,  in  his  «  History  of  Inventions,*  has  written  an  account 
of  the  different  instruments  applied  to  carriages  to  measure  the  distance 
they  pass  over.  He  places  the  first  introduction  of  the  udometer  in 
England  at  about  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  instead  of  about 
the  middle,  and  states  it  to  have  been  the  invention  of  an  ingenious 
artist  named  Butterfield. 


i657  JOHN   EVELYN  317 

exactly  measuring  the  miles,  and  showing  them  by  an 
index  as  we  went  on.  It  had  three  circles,  one  pointing 
to  the  number  of  rods,  another  to  the  miles,  by  10  to 
1,000,  with  all  the  subdivisions  of  quarters;  very  pretty 
and  useful. 

loth  August,  1657.  Our  vicar,  from  John  xviii.  36, 
declaimed  against  the  folly  of  a  sort  of  enthusiasts  and 
deperate  zealots,  called  the  Fifth-Monarchy-Men,  pre- 
tending to  set  up  the  kingdom  of  Christ  with  the  sword. 
To  this  pass  was  this  age  arrived  when  we  had  no  King 
in  Israel. 

2 1  St  August,  1657  Fell  a  most  prodigious  rain  in  Lon- 
don, and  the  year  was  very  sickly  in  the  country 

I  St  September,  1657.  I  visited  Sir  Edmund  Bowyer, 
at  his  melancholy  seat  at  Camberwell.  He  has  a  very 
pretty  grove  of  oaks,  and  hedges  of  yew  in  his  garden, 
and  a  handsome  row  of  tall  elms  before  his  court. 

15th  September,  1657.  Going  to  London  with  some 
company,  we  stepped  in  to  see  a  famous  rope-dancer,  called 
THE  TURK.  I  saw  cvcu  to  astonishmeut  the  agility  with 
which  he  performed.  He  walked  barefooted,  taking  hold  by 
his  toes  only  of  a  rope  almost  perpendicular,  and  without  so 
much  as  touching  it  with  his  hands;  he  danced  blind- 
fold on  the  high  rope,  and  with  a  boy  of  twelve  years 
old  tied  to  one  of  his  feet  about  twenty  feet  beneath 
him,  dangling  as  he  danced,  yet  he  moved  as  nimbly  as 
if  it  had  been  but  a  feather.  Lastly,  he  stood  on  his 
head,  on  the  top  of  a  very  high  mast,  danced  on  a  small 
rope  that  was  very  slack,  and  finally  flew  down  the  per- 
pendicular, on  his  breast,  his  head  foremost,  his  legs  and 
arms  extended,  with  divers  other  activities. —  I  saw  the 
hairy  woman,  twenty  years  old,  whom  I  had  before  seen 
when  a  child.  She  was  born  at  Augsburg,  in  Germany. 
Her  very  eyebrows  were  combed  upward,  and  all  her 
forehead  as  thick  and  even  as  grows  on  any  woman's 
head,  neatly  dressed ;  a  very  long  lock  of  hair  out  of  each 
ear;  she  had  also  a  most  prolix  beard,  and  moustachios, 
with  long  locks  growing  on  the  middle  of  her  nose,  like 
an  Iceland  dog  exactly,  the  color  of  a  bright  brown,  fine 
as  well-dressed  flax.  She  was  now  married,  and  told  me 
she  had  one  child  that  was  not  hairy,  nor  were  any  of 
her  parents,  or  relations.  She  was  very  well  shaped, 
and  played  well  on  the  hai-psichord. 


3i8  DIARY  OF  London 

17th  September,  1657.  To  see  Sir  Robert  Needham, 
at  Lambeth,  a  relation  of  mine;  and  thence  to  John  Tra- 
descant's  museum,  in  which  the  chiefest  rarities  were,  in 
my  opinion,  the  ancient  Roman,  Indian,  and  other  na- 
tions' armor,  shields,  and  weapons;  some  habits  of  cu- 
riously-colored and  wrought  feathers,  one  from  the  phoenix 
wing,  as  tradition  goes.  Other  innumerable  things  there 
were  printed  in  his  catalogue  by  Mr.  Ashmole,  to  whom 
after  the  death  of  the  widow  they  are  bequeathed,  and  by 
him  designed  as  a  gift  to  Oxford. 

19th  October,  1657.  I  went  to  see  divers  gardens  about 
London:  returning,  I  saw  at  Dr.  Joyliffe's  two  Virginian 
rattlesnakes  alive,  exceeding  a  yard  in  length,  small 
heads,  slender  tails,  but  in  the  middle  nearly  the  size  of 
i^y  leg ;  when  vexed,  swiftly  vibrating  and  shaking  their 
tails,  as  loud  as  a  child's  rattle;  this,  by  the  collision  of 
certain  gristly  skins  curiously  jointed,  yet  loose,  and 
transparent  as  parchment,  by  which  they  give  warning; 
a  providential  caution  for  other  creatures  to  avoid  them. 
The  Doctor  tried  their  biting  on  rats  and  mice,  which 
they  immediately  killed:  but  their  vigor  must  needs  be 
much  exhausted  here,  in  another  climate,  and  kept  only 
in  a  barrel  of  bran. 

226.  October,  1657.  To  town,  to  visit  the  Holland  Am- 
bassador, with  whom  I  had  now  contracted  much  friendly 
correspondence,  useful  to  the  intelligence  I  constantly 
gave  his  Majesty  abroad. 

26th  November,  1657.  I  went  to  London,  to  a  court 
of  the  East  India  Company  on  its  new  union,  in  Mer- 
chant-Taylors' Hall,  where  was  much  disorder  by  reason 
of  the  Anabaptists,  who  would  have  the  adventurers 
obliged  only  by  an  engagement,  without  swearing,  that 
they  still  might  pursue  their  private  trade;  but  it  was 
carried  against  them.  Wednesday  was  fixed  on  for  a 
general  court  for  election  of  officers,  after  a  sermon  and 
prayers  for  good  success.  The  Stock  resolved  on  was 
;^8oo,ooo. 

27th  November,  1657.  I  took  the  oath  at  the  East  In- 
dia House,  subscribing  ;^5oo. 

2d  December,  1657.  Dr.  Raynolds  (since  Bishop  of 
Norwich)  preached  before  the  company  at  St.  Andrew 
Under-shaft,  on  Nehemiah  xiii.  31,  showing,  by  the  ex- 
ample of  Nehemiah,  all  the  perfections   of   a   trusty  per- 


1657-58  JOHN   EVELYN  319 

son  in  public  affairs,  with  many  good  precepts  apposite 
to  the  occasion,  ending  with  a  prayer  for  God's  blessing 
on  the  company  and  the  undertaking. 

3d  December,  1657,  Mr.  Gunning  preached  on  John 
iii.  3,  against  the  Anabaptists,  showing  the  effect  and 
necessity  of  the  sacrament  of  baptism.  This  sect  was 
now  wonderfully  spread, 

25th  December,  1657.  I  went  to  London  with  my  wife, 
to  celebrate  Christmas-day,  Mr.  Gunning  preaching  in 
Exeter  chapel,  on  Micah  vii.  2.  Sermon  ended,  as  he 
was  giving  us  the  Holy  Sacrament,  the  chapel  was  sur- 
rounded with  soldiers,  and  all  the  communicants  and 
assembly  surprised  and  kept  prisoners  by  them,  some  in 
the  house,  others  carried  away.  It  fell  to  my  share  to 
be  confined  to  a  room  in  the  house,  where  yet  I  was 
permitted  to  dine  with  the  master  of  it,  the  Countess  of 
Dorset,  Lady  Hatton,  and  some  others  of  quality  who 
invited  me.  In  the  afternoon,  came  Colonel  Whalley, 
Goffe,  and  others,  from  Whitehall,  to  examine  us  one  by 
one ;  some  they  committed  to  the  marshal,  some  to  prison. 
When  I  came  before  them,  they  took  .my  name  and  abode, 
examined  me  why,  contrary  to  the  ordinance  made,  that 
none  should  any  longer  observe  the  superstitious  time  of 
the  nativity  (so  esteemed  by  them),  I  durst  offend,  and 
particularly  be  at  common  prayers,  which  they  told  me 
was  but  the  mass  in  English,  and  particularly  pray  for 
Charles  Stuart;  for  which  we  had  no  Scripture.  I  told 
them  we  did  not  pray  for  Charles  Stuart,  but  for  all 
Christian  kings,  princes,  and  governors.  They  replied, 
in  so  doing  we  prayed  for  the  king  of  Spain,  too,  who 
was  their  enemy  and  a  Papist,  with  other  frivolous  and 
ensnaring  questions,  and  much  threatening;  and,  finding 
no  color  to  detain  me,  they  dismissed  me  with  much  pity 
of  my  ignorance.  These  were  men  of  high  flight  and 
above  ordinances,  and  spoke  spiteful  things  of  our  Lord's 
nativity.  As  we  went  up  to  receive  the  Sacrament,  the 
miscreants  held  their  muskets  against  us,  as  if  they  would 
have  shot  us  at  the  altar;  but  yet  suffering  us  to  finish 
the  office  of  Communion,  as  perhaps  not  having  instruc- 
tions what  to  do,  in  case  they  found  us  in  that  action. 
So  I  got  home  late  the  next  day;  blessed  be  God! 

27th  January,  1657-58.  After  six  fits  of  a  quartan  ague, 
with  which  it  pleased  God  to  visit  him,  died  my  dear  son, 


330  DIARY  OF  London 

Richard,  to  our  inexpressible  grief  and  affliction,  five 
years  and  three  days  old  only,  but  at  that  tender  age  a 
prodigy  for  wit  and  understanding;  for  beauty  of  body, 
a  very  angel;  for  endowment  of  mind,  of  incredible  and 
rare  hopes.  To  give  only  a  little  taste  of  them,  and  thereby 
glory  to  God,  who  ^^out  of  the  mouths  of  babes  and  in- 
fants does  sometimes  perfect  his  praises,*  he  had  learned 
all  his  catechism;  at  two  years  and  a  half  old,  he  could 
perfectly  read  any  of  the  English,  Latin,  French,  or  Gothic 
letters,  pronouncing  the  first  three  languages  exactly. 
He  had,  before  the  fifth  year,  or  in  that  year,  not  only 
skill  to  read  most  written  hands,  but  to  decline  all  the 
nouns,  conjugate  the  verbs  regular,  and  most  of  the 
irregular;  learned  out  ^^Puerilis,*  got  by  heart  almost  the 
entire  vocabulary  of  Latin  and  French  primitives  and 
words,  could  make  congruous  syntax,  turn  English  into 
Latin,  and  vice  versd,  construe  and  prove  what  he  read, 
and  did  the  government  and  use  of  relatives,  verbs,  sub- 
stantives, ellipses,  and  many  figures  and  tropes,  and  made 
a  considerable  progress  in  Comenius's  *-^Janua  */  began 
himself  to  write  legibly,  and  had  a  strong  passion  for 
Greek.  The  number  of  verses  he  could  recite  was  pro- 
digious, and  what  he  remembered  of  the  parts  of  plays, 
which  he  would  also  act;  and,  when  seeing  a  Plautus  in 
one's  hand,  he  asked  what  book  it  was,  and,  being  told 
it  was  comedy,  and  too  difficult  for  him,  he  wept  for  sor- 
row. Strange  was  his  apt  and  ingenious  application  of 
fables  and  morals;  for  he  had  read  -^sop;  he  had  a  won- 
derful disposition  to  mathematics,  having  by  heart  divers 
propositions  of  Euclid  that  were  read  to  him  in  play,  and 
he  would  make  lines  and  demonstrate  them.  As  to  his 
piety,  astonishing  were  his  applications  of  Scripture  upon 
occasion,  and  his  sense  of  God;  he  had  learned  all  his 
catechism  early,  and  understood  the  historical  part  of  the 
Bible  and  New  Testament  to  a  wonder,  how  Christ  came 
to  redeem  mankind,  and  how,  comprehending  these  neces- 
saries himself,  his  godfathers  were  discharged  of  their 
promise. 

These  and  the  like  illuminations,  far  exceeding  his  age 
and  experience,  considering  the  prettiness  of  his  address 
and  behavior,  cannot  but  leave  impressions  in  me  at  the 
memory  of  him.  When  one  told  him  how  many  days  a 
Quaker   had  fasted,  he   replied  that  was   no  wonder;  foT 


1658  JOHN  EVELYN  321 

Christ  had  said  that  man  should  not  live  by  bread  alone, 
but  by  the  Word  of  God.  He  would  of  himself  select 
the  most  pathetic  psalms,  and  chapters  out  of  Job,  to 
read  to  his  maid  during  his  sickness,  telling  her,  when 
she  pitied  him,  that  all  God's  children  must  suffer  afflic- 
tion. He  declaimed  against  the  vanities  of  the  world, 
before  he  had  seen  any.  Often  he  would  desire  those 
who  came  to  see  him  to  pray  by  him,  and  a  year  before 
he  fell  sick,  to  kneel  and  pray  with  him  alone  in  some 
comer.  How  thankfully  would  he  receive  admonition! 
how  soon  be  reconciled!  how  indifferent,  yet  continually 
cheerful!  He  would  give  grave  advice  to  his  brother,, 
John,  bear  with  his  impertinences,  and  say  he  was  but 
a  child.  If  he  heard  of  or  saw  any  new  thing,  he  was 
unquiet  till  he  was  told  how  it  was  made ;  he  brought  to 
us  all  such  difficulties  as  he  found  in  books,  to  be  ex- 
pounded. He  had  learned  by  heart  divers  sentences  in 
Latin  and  Greek,  which,  on  occasion,  he  would  produce 
even  to  wonder.  He  was  all  life,  all  prettiness,  far  from 
morose,  sullen,  or  childish  in  anything  he  said  or  did. 
The  last  time  he  had  been  at  church  (which  was  at 
Greenwich),  I  asked  him,  according  to  custom,  what  he 
remembered  of  the  sermon;  two  good  things.  Father, 
said  he,  bo?tum  gratioe  and  bonum  glories^  with  a  just 
account  of  what  the  preacher  said. 

The  day  before  he  died,  he  called  to  me:  and  in  a 
more  serious  manner  than  usual,  told  me  that  for  all  I 
loved  him  so  dearly  I  should  give  my  house,  land,  and 
all  my  fine  things  to  his  brother  Jack,  he  should  have 
none  of  them;  and,  the  next  morning,  when  he  found 
himself  ill,  and  that  I  persuaded  him  to  keep  his  hands 
in  bed,  he  demanded  whether  he  might  pray  to  God  with 
his  hands  unjoined;  and  a  little  after,  while  in  great 
agony,  whether  he  should  not  offend  God  by  using  his 
holy  name  so  often  calling  for  ease.  What  shall  I  say  of 
his  frequent  pathetical  ejaculations  uttered  of  himself: 
*  Sweet  Jesus,  save  me,  deliver  me,  pardon  my  sins,  let 
thine  angels  receive  me!  *  So  early  knowledge,  so  much 
piety  and  perfection!  But  thus  God,  having  dressed  up 
a  saint  fit  for  himself,  would  not  longer  permit  him  with  us, 
unworthy  of  the  future  fruits  of  this  incomparable  hope- 
ful blossom.  Such  a  Child  I  never  saw :  for  such  a  child 
I  bless  God,  in  whose  bosom  he  is!  May  I  and  mine 
21 


322  DIARY    OF  LONDON 

become  as  this  little  child,  who  now  follows  the  child  Jesus 
that  Lamb  of  God  in  a  white  robe,  whithersoever  he 
goes;  even  so,  Lord  Jesus,  fiat  voluntas  tua !  Thou 
gavest  him  to  us,  thou  hast  taken  him  from  us,  blessed 
be  the  name  of  the  Lord !  That  I  had  anything  accept- 
able to  thee  was  from  thy  grace  alone,  seeing  from  me 
he  had  nothing  but  sin,  but  that  thou  hast  pardoned! 
blessed  be  my  Grod  for  ever,  Amen. 

In  my  opinion,  he  was  suffocated  by  the  women  and 
maids  that  attended  him,  and  covered  him  too  hot  with 
blankets  as  he  lay  in  a  cradle,  near  an  excessive  hot  fire 
in  a  close  room,  I  suffered  him  to  be  opened,  when  they 
found  that  he  was  what  is  vulgarly  called  liver-grown. 
I  caused  his  body  to  be  coffined  in  lead,  and  deposited  on 
the  30th  at  eight  o'clock  that  night  in  the  church  at  Dept- 
ford,  accompanied  with  divers  of  my  relations  and  neigh- 
bors, among  whom  I  distributed  rings  with  this  motto: 
*  Dominus  abstulit;  *  intending,  God  willing,  to  have  him 
transported  with  my  own  body  to  be  interred  in  our  dor- 
mitory in  Wotton  Church,  in  my  dear  native  county  of 
Surrey,  and  to  lay  my  bones  and  mingle  my  dust  with 
my  fathers,  if  God  be  gracious  to  me,  and  make  me  as 
fit  for  him  as  this  blessed  child  was.  The  Lord  Jesus 
sanctify  this  and  all  other  my  afflictions,   Amen. 

Here  ends  the  joy  of  my  life,  and  for  which  I  go  even 
mourning  to  the  grave. 

15th  February,  1658.  The  afflicting  hand  of  God  being 
still  upon  us,  it  pleased  him  also  to  take  away  from  us  this 
morning  my  youngest  son,  George,  now  seven  weeks 
languishing  at  nurse,  breeding  teeth,  and  ending  in  a 
dropsy.  God's  holy  will  be  done!  He  was  buried  in 
Deptford  Church,  the  17th  following. 

25th  February,  1658.  Came  Dr.  Jeremy  Taylor,  and  my 
brothers,  with  other  friends,    to   visit  and  condole  with  us. 

7th  March,  1658.  To  London,  to  hear  Dr.  Taylor  in  a 
private  house  on  Luke  xiii.  23,  24.  After  the  sermon, 
followed  the  blessed  Communion,  of  which  I  participated. 
In  the  afternoon.  Dr.  Gunning,  at  Exeter  House,  ex- 
pounding part  of  the  Creed. 

This  had  been  the  severest  winter  that  any  man  alive 
had  known  in  England.  The  crows'  feet  were  frozen 
to  their  prey.  Islands  of  ice  inclosed  both  fish  and  fowl 
frozen,  and  some  persons  in  their  boats. 


i6s8  JOHN  EVELYN  323 

15th  May,  1658,  was  a  public  fast,  to  avert  an  epidem- 
ical sickness,  very  mortal  this  spring, 

20th  May,  1658.  I  went  to  see  a  coach  race  in  Hyde 
Park,  and  collationed  in  Spring  Garden. 

23d  May,  1658.  Dr.  Manton,  the  famous  Presbyterian, 
preached  at  Covent  Garden,  on  Matthew  vi.  10,  showing 
what  the  kingdom  of  God  was,  how  pray  for  it,  etc. 

There  was  now  a  collection  for  persecuted  and  seques- 
tered Ministers  of  the  Church  of  England,  whereof  divers 
are  in  prison.  A  sad  day !  The  Church  now  in  dens  and 
caves  of  the  earth. 

31st  May,  1658.  I  went  to  visit  my  Lady  Peterborough, 
whose  son,  Mr.  Mordaunt,  prisoner  in  the  Tower,  was 
now  on  his  trial,  and  acquitted  but  by  one  voice;  but 
that  holy  martyr,  Dr.  Hewer,  was  condemned  to  die 
without  law,  jury,  or  justice,  but  by  a  mock  Council  of 
State,  as  they  called  it.     A  dangerous,  treacherous  time! 

2d  June,  1658.  An  extraordinary  storm  of  hail  and 
rain,  the  season  as  cold  as  winter,  the  wind  northerly 
near  six  months. 

3d  June,  1658.  A  large  whale  was  taken  between  my 
land  abutting  on  the  Thames  and  Greenwich,  which 
drew  an  infinite  concourse  to  see  it,  by  water,  horse, 
coach,  and  on  foot,  from  London,  and  all  parts.  It 
appeiared  first  below  Greenwich  at  low  water,  for  at  high 
water  it  would  have  destroyed  all  the  boats,  but  lying 
now  in  shallow  water  encompassed  with  boats,  after  a 
long  conflict,  it  was  killed  with  a  harping  iron,  struck 
in  the  head,  out  of  which  spouted  blood  and  water 
by  two  tunnels;  and  after  a  horrid  groan,  it  ran  quite 
on  shore,  and  died.  Its  length  was  fifty-eight  feet, 
height  sixteen;  black  skinned,  like  coach  leather;  very 
small  eyes,  great  tail,  only  two  small  fins,  a  peaked 
snout  and  a  mouth  so  wide,  that  divers  men  might  have 
stood  upright  in  it;  no  teeth,  but  sucked  the  slime  only 
as  through  a  grate  of  that  bone  which  we  call  whale- 
bone; the  throat  yet  so  narrow,  as  would  not  have  ad- 
mitted the  least  of  fishes.  The  extremes  of  the  cetaceous 
bones  hang  downward  from  the  upper  jaw,  and  are  hairy 
toward  the  ends  and  bottom  within  side:  all  of  it  prp- 
digious;  but  in  nothing  more  wonderful  than  that  an 
animal  of  so  great  a  bulk  should  be  nourished  onlybv 
plime  through  those  grates, 


324  DIARY  OF  London 

8th  June,  1658.  That  excellent  preacher  and  holy  man, 
Dr.  Hewer,  was  martyred  for  having  intelligence  with 
his  Majesty,  through  the  Lord  Marquis  of  Ormond. 

9th  June,  1658.  I  went  to  see  the  Earl  of  Northum- 
berland's pictures,  whereof  that  of  the  Venetian  Senators 
was  one  of  the  best  of  Titian's  and  another  of  Andrea 
del  Sarto,  viz,  a  Madonna,  Christ,  St.  John,  and  an  Old 
Woman;  a  St.  Catherine  of  Da  Vinci,  with  divers  por- 
traits of  Vandyck;  a  Nativity  of  Georgioni;  the  last  of 
our  blessed  Kings  (Charles  I.),  and  the  Duke  of  York, 
by  Lely,  a  Rosary  by  the  famous  Jesuits  of  Brussels, 
and  several  more.  This  was  in  Suffolk  House:  the  new 
front  toward  the  gardens  is  tolerable,  were  it  not  drowned 
by  a  too  massy  and  clumsy  pair  of  stairs  of  stone, 
without  any  neat  invention. 

loth  June,  1658.  I  went  to  see  the  Medical  Garden  at 
Westminster,  well  stored  with  plants,  under  Morgan,  a 
very  skillful  botanist. 

26th  June,  1658.     To  Eltham,  to  visit  honest  Mr.  Owen. 

3d  July,  1658.  To  London,  and  dined  with  Mr.  Hen- 
shaw,  Mr.  Dorell,  and  Mr.  Ashmole,  founder  of  the 
Oxford  repository  of  rarities,  with  divers  doctors  of  physic 
and  virtuosos. 

15th  July,  1658.  Came  to  see  my  Lord  Kilmurry  and 
Lady,  Sir  Robert  Needham,  Mr.  Offley,  and  two  daugh- 
ters of  my  Lord  Willoughby,  of  Parham. 

3d  August,  1658.  Went  to  Sir  John  Evelyn  at  God- 
stone.  The  place  is  excellent,  but  might  be  improved  by 
turning  some  offices  of  the  house,  and  removing  the  gar- 
den. The  house  being  a  noble  fabric,  though  not  com- 
parable to  what  was  first  built  by  my  uncle,  who  was 
master  of  all  the  powder  mills. 

5th  August,  1658,  We  went  to  Squirries  to  visit  my 
Cousin  Leech,  daughter  to  Sir  John;  a  pretty,  finely 
wooded,  well  watered  seat,  the  stables  good,  the  house 
old,  but  convenient.     6th.    Returned  to  Wotton. 

loth  August,  1658.  I  dined  at  Mr.  Carew  Raleigh's,  at 
Horsley,  son  to  the  famous  Sir  Walter. 

14th  August,  1658.  We  went  to  Durdans  [at  Epsom] 
to  a  challenged  match  at  bowls  for  £10,  which  we  won. 

1 8th  August,  1658.  To  Sir  Ambrose  Browne,  at  Betch- 
worth  Castle,  in  that  tempestuous  wind  which  threw  down 
ply  greatest  trees  at  Sayes  Court,  and  did  so  much  mis- 


1658  JOHN  EVELYN  325 

chief  all  over  England.  It  continued  the  whole  night; 
and,  till  three  in  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  in  the 
southwest,  and  destroyed  all  our  winter  fruit. 

3d  September,  1658.  Died  that  arch-rebel,  Oliver  Crom- 
well, called  Protector. 

1 6th  September,  1658.  Was  published  my  translation 
of  St.  Chrysostom  on  ^*  Education  of  Children,**  which  I 
dedicated  to  both  my  brothers  to  comfort  them  on  the 
loss  of  their  children, 

2ist  September,  1658,  My  Lord  Berkeley,  of  Berkeley 
Castle,  invited  me  to  dinner. 

26th  September,  1658.  Mr.  King  preached  at  Ashted, 
on  Proverbs  xv.  24;  a  Quaker  would  have  disputed  with 
him.  In  the  afternoon,  we  heard  Dr.  Hacket  (since  Bishop 
of  Litchfield)  at  Cheam,  where  the  family  of  the  Lum- 
leys  lie  buried. 

27th  September,  1658.  To  Beddington,  that  ancient  seat 
of  the  Carews,  a  fine  old  hall,  but  a  scambling  house, 
famous  for  the  first  orange  garden  in  England,  being  now 
overgrown  trees,  planted  in  the  ground,  and  secured  in 
winter  with  a  wooden  tabernacle  and  stoves.  This  seat 
is  rarely  watered,  lying  low,  and  environed  with  good 
pastures.  The  pomegranates  bear  here.  To  the  house  is 
also  added  a  fine  park.  Thence,  to  Carshalton,  excellently 
watered,  and  capable  of  being  made  a  most  delicious 
seat,  being  on  the  sweet  downs,  and  a  champaign  about  it 
full  planted  with  walnut  and  cherry  trees,  which  aflford  a 
considerable  rent. 

Riding  over  these  downs,  and  discoursing  with  the 
shepherds,  I  found  that  digging  about  the  bottom  near 
Sir  Christopher  Buckle's,*  near  Banstead,  divers  medals 
have  been  found,  both  copper  and  silver,  with  founda- 
tions of  houses,  urns,  etc.  Here,  indeed,  anciently  stood 
a  city  of  the  Romans.     See  Antonine's  **  Itineraries. " 

29th  September,  1658.  I  returned  home,  after  a  ten 
weeks'  absence. 

2d  October,  1658.  I  went  to  London,  to  receive  the 
Holy  Sacrament. 

On  the    3d,  Dr.  Wild  preached    in   a   private  place  on 

*  Not  far  from  the  course  of  the  Roman  Road  from  Chichester, 
through  Sussex,  passing  through  Ockley,  and  Dorking  churchyard. 
Considerable  remains  of  a  Roman  building  have  since  been  found  on 
Waltonheath,  south  of  this  house. 


326  DIARY     OF  London 

Isaiah  i.  4,  showing  the  parallel  between  the  sins  of  Israel 
and  those  of  England.  In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Hall  (son 
to  Joseph,  Bishop  of  Norwich)  on  i  Cor.  vi.  2,  of  the 
dignity  of  the  Saints;  a  most  excellent  discourse. 

4th  October,  1658.  I  dined  with  the  Holland  ambas- 
sador, at  Derby  House :  returning,  I  diverted  to  see  a  very 
WHITE  RAVEN,  bred  in  Cumberland;  also  a  porcupine,  of 
that  kind  that  shoots  its  quills,  of  which  see  Claudian;  it 
was  headed  like  a  rat,  the  fore  feet  like  a  badger,  the  hind 
feet  like  a  bear. 

19th  October,  1658.  I  was  summoned  to  London,  by 
the  commissioners  for  new  buildings;  afterward,  to  the 
commission  of  sewers;  but  because  there  was  an  oath  to 
be  taken  of  fidelity  to  the  Government  as  now  constituted 
without  a  king,  I  got  to  be  excused,  and  returned  home. 

2 2d  October,  1658.  Saw  the  superb  funeral  of  the  pro- 
tector. He  was  carried  from  Somerset  House  in  a  velvet 
bed  of  state,  drawn  by  six  horses,  housed  with  the  same ; 
the  pall  held  by  his  new  lords;  Oliver  lying  in  effigy, 
in  royal  robes,  and  crowned  with  a  crown,  sceptre,  and 
globe,  like  a  king.  The  pendants  and  guidons  were  car- 
ried by  the  officers  of  the  army;  the  imperial  banners, 
achievements,  etc.,  by  the  heralds  in  their  coats;  a  rich 
caparisoned  horse,  embroidered  all  over  with  gold;  a 
knight  of  honor,  armed  cap-a-pie^  and,  after  all,  his 
guards,  soldiers,  and  innumerable  mourners.  In  this  equi- 
page, they  proceeded  to  Westminster :  but  it  was  the  most 
joyful  funeral  I  ever  saw;  for  there  were  none  that  cried 
bnt  dogs,  which  the  soldiers  hooted  away  with  a  barbar- 
ous noise,  drinking  and  taking  tobacco  in  the  streets  as 
they  went. 

I  returned  not  home  till  the  17th  of  November. 

I  was  summoned  again  to  London  by  the  commisioners 
for  new  foundations  to  be  erected  within  such  a  distance 
of  London. 

6th  December,  1658.  Now  was  published  my  "French 
Gardener,®  the  first  and  best  of  the  kind  that  introduced 
the  use  of  the  olitory  garden  to  any  purpose. 

23d  December,  1658.  I  went  with  my  wife  to  keep 
Christmas  at  my  cousin,  George  Tuke's,  at  Cressing 
Temple,  in  Essex.      Lay  that  night  at  Brentwood. 

25th  December,  1658.  Here  was  no  public  service,  but 
what  we  privately  used.      I  blessed  God  for  his  mercies 


1658-59  JOHN    EVELYN  327 

the  year  past;  and  ist  of  January,  begged  a  continuance  of 
them.  Thus,  for  three  Sundays,  by  reason  of  the  in- 
cumbent's death,  here  was  neither  praying  nor  preach- 
ing, though  there  was  a  chapel  in  the  house. 

17th  January,  1659.  Our  old  vicar  preached,  taking 
leave  of  the  parish  in  a  pathetical  speech,  to  go  to  a 
living  in  the  city. 

24th  March,  1659.  I  went  to  London,  to  speak  to  the 
patron,  Alderman  Cuttler,  about  presenting  a  fit  pastor 
for  our  destitute  parish  church. 

5th  April,  1659.  Came  the  Earl  of  Northampton  and 
the  famous  painter,   Mr,  Wright,  to  visit  me, 

loth  April,  1659.  One  Mr.  Littler,  being  now  pre- 
sented to  the  living  of  our  parish,  preached  on  John  vi. 
55,  a  sermon  preparatory  to  the  Holy  Sacrament. 

25th  April,  1659.  A  wonderful  and  sudden  change  in 
the  face  of  the  public;  the  new  protector,  Richard, 
slighted;  several  pretenders  and  parties  strive  for  the 
government :  all  anarchy  and  confusion ;  Lord  have  mercy 
on  us! 

5th  May,  1659.  I  went  to  visit  my  brother  in  London; 
and  next  day,  to  see  a  new  opera,  after  the  Italian  way, 
in  recitative  music  and  scenes,  much  inferior  to  the  Ital- 
ian composure  and  magnificence ;  but  it  was  prodigious 
that  in  a  time  of  such  public  consternation  such  a  vanity 
should  be  kept  up,  or  permitted.  I,  being  engaged  with 
company,  could  not  decently  resist  the  going  to  see  it, 
though  my  heart  smote  me  for  it. 

7th  May,  1659.  Came  the  Ambassador  of  Holland 
and  his  lady  to  visit   me,  and  stayed  the  whole  afternoon. 

12th  May,  1659.  I  returned  the  visit,  discoursing  much 
of  the  revolutions,  etc. 

19th  May,  1659.  Came  to  dine  with  me  my  Lord  Gallo- 
way and  his  son,  a  Scotch  Lord  and  learned:  also  my 
brother  and  his  lady.  Lord  Berkeley  and  his  lady,  Mrs. 
Shirley,  and  the  famous  singer,  Mrs,  Knight,*  and  other 
friends. 

23d  May,  1659.  I  went  to  Rookwood,  and  dined  with 
Sir  William  Hicks,  where  was  a  great  feast  and  much 
company.  It  is  a  melancholy  old  house,  environed  with 
trees  and  rooks. 

26th  May,   1659.     Came    to    see    me    my    Lord    George 

•Afterward  one  of  Charles  II. 's  mistresses. 


328  DIARY  OF  London 

Berkeley,  Sir  William  Ducie,  and  Sir  George  Pott's  son 
of  Norfolk. 

29tii  May,  1659,  The  nation  was  now  in  extreme  con- 
fusion and  unsettled,  between  the  Armies  and  the 
Sectaries,  the  poor  Church  of  England  breathing  as  it 
were  her  last;  so  sad  a  face  of  things  had  overspread  us. 

7th  June,  1659.  To  London,  to  take  leave  of  my 
brother,  and  see  the  foundations  now  laying  for  a  long 
street  and  buildings  in  Hatton  Garden,  designed  for  a 
little  town,  lately  an   ample  garden. 

ist  September,  1659.  I  communicated  to  Mr.  Robert 
Boyle,  son  to  the  Earl  of  Cork,  my  proposal  for  erecting 
a  philosophic  and  mathematic  college. 

15th  September,  1659.  Came  to  see  me  Mr.  Brereton,* 
a  very  learned  gentleman,  son  to  my  Lord  Brereton, 
with  his  and  divers  other  ladies.  Also,  Henry  Howard 
of  Norfolk,  since  Duke  of  Norfolk. 

30th  September,  1659.  I  went  to  visit  Sir  William  Du- 
cie and  Colonel  Blount,  where  I  met  Sir  Henry  Blount, 
the  famous  traveler  and  water  drinker. 

loth  October,  1659.  I  came  with  my  wife  and  family 
to  London :  took  lodgings  at  the  Three  Feathers,  in  Rus- 
sell Street,  Covent  Garden,  for  the  winter,  my  son  being 
very  unwell. 

nth  October,  1659.  Came  to  visit  me  Mr.  William 
Coventry  (since  secretary  to  the  Duke),  son  to  the  Lord 
Keeper,  a  wise  and  witty  gentleman. 

The  Army  now  turned  out  the  Parliament.  We  had 
now  no  government  in  the  nation:  all  in  confusion;  no 
magistrate  either  owned  or  pretended;  but  the  soldiers, 
and  they  not  agreed.  God  Almighty  have  mercy  on  us, 
and  settle  us ! 

17th  October,  1659.  I  visited  Mr.  Howard,  at  Arun- 
del House,  who  gave  me  a  fair  onyx  set  in  gold,  and 
showed  me  his  design  of  a  palace  there. 

2ist  October,  1659.  A  private  fast  was  kept  by  the 
Church  of  England  Protestants  in  town,  to  beg  of  God 
the  removal  of  his  judgments,  with  devout  prayers  for 
his  mercy  to  our  calamitous  Church. 

7th  November  1659.     Was  published  my  bold  "  Apology 

*  William,  afterward  third  Lord  Brereton;  an  accompli  shed  and 
able  man,  who  assisted  Evelyn  in  establishing  the  Royal  Society.  He 
died  in  1679. 


i6S9  JOHN  EVELYN  329 

for  the  King"  in  this  time  of  danger,  when  it  was  cap- 
ital to  speak  or  write  in  favor  of  him.  It  was  twice 
printed;  so  universally  it  took. 

9th  November,  1659.  We  observed  our  solemn  Fast 
for  the  calamity  of  our  Church. 

13th  November,  1659.  I  went  to  see  the  several  drugs 
for  the  confection  of  treacle,  dioscordium,  and  other 
electuaries,  which  an  ingenious  apothecary  had  not  only 
prepared  and  ranged  on  a  large  and  very  long  table, 
but  covered  every  ingredient  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  on 
which  was  very  lively  painted  the  thing  in  miniature, 
well  to  the  life,  were  it  plant,  flower,  animal,  or  other 
exotic  drug. 

15th  November,  1659.  Dined  with  the  Dutch  Ambas- 
sador. He  did  in  a  manner  acknowledge  that  his  nation 
mind  only  their  own  profit,  do  nothing  out  of  gratitude, 
but  collaterally  as  it  relates  to  their  gain,  or  security; 
and  therefore  the  English  were  to  look  for  nothing  of 
assistance  to  the  banished  King.  This  was  to  me  no  very 
grateful  discourse,  though  an  ingenuous  confession. 

1 8th  November,  1659.  Mr.  Gunning  celebrated  the 
wonted  Fast,  and  preached  on  Phil.  ii.  12,  13. 

24th  November,  1659.  Sir  John  Evelyn  [of  Godstone] 
invited  us  to  the  forty-first  wedding-day  feast,  where  was 
much  company  of  friends, 

26th  November,  1659.  I  was  introduced  into  the 
acquaintance  of  divers  learned  and  worthy  persons,  Sir 
John  Marsham,  Mr.  Dugdale,  Mr.  Stanley,  and  others. 

9th  December,  1659.  I  supped  with  Mr.  Gunning,  it 
being  our  fast  day,  Dr.  Feame,  Mr.  Thrisco,  Mr.  Cham- 
berlain, Dr.  Henchman,  Dr.  Wild,  and  other  devout  and 
learned  di\'ines,  firm  confessors,  and  excellent  persons. 
Note:  Most  of  them  since  made  bishops. 

loth  December,  1659.  I  treated  privately  with  Colonel 
Morley,  then  Lieutenant  of  the  Tower,  and  in  great  trust 
and  power,  concerning  delivering  it  to  the  King,  and  the 
bringing  of  him  in,  to  the  great  hazard  of  my  life,  but 
the  Colonel  had  been  my  schoolfellow,  and  I  knew  would 
not  betray  me. 

12th  December,  1659.  I  spent  in  public  concerns  for 
his  Majesty,  pursuing  the  point  to  bring  over  Colonel 
Morley,  and  his  brother-in-law,  Fay,  Governor  of  Ports- 
mouth. 


330  DIARY  OF  London 

i8th  December,  1659.  Preached  that  famous  divine, 
Dr.  Sanderson  (since  Bishop  of  Lincoln),  now  eighty 
years  old,  on  Jer.  xxx.  13,  concerning  the  evil  of  forsaking 
God. 

29th  December,  1659.  Came  my  Lord  Count  Arundel, 
of  Wardour,  to  visit  me.  I  went  also  to  see  my  Lord 
Viscount  Montague. 

31st  December,  1659.  Settling  my  domestic  affairs  in 
order,  blessed  God  for  his  infinite  mercies  and  preser- 
vations the  past  year. 

Annus  Mirabilis,  January  ist,  1659-60.  Begging  God's 
blessings  for  the  following  year,  I  went  to  Exeter 
Chapel,  when  Mr.  Gunning  began  the  year  on  Galatians 
iv.  3-7,  showing  the  love  of  Christ  in  shedding  his 
blood  so  early  for  us. 

12th  January,  1660.  Wrote  to  Colonel  Morley  again  to 
declare  for  his  Majesty. 

2 2d  January,  1660.  I  went  this  afternoon  to  visit 
Colonel  Morley.  After  dinner  I  discoursed  with  him; 
but  he  was  very  jealous,  and  would  not  believe  that  Monk 
came  in  to  do  the  King  any  service;  I  told  him  that  he 
might  do  it  without  him,  and  have  all  the  honor.  He 
was  still  doubtful,  and  would  resolve  on  nothing  yet,  so 
I  took  leave. 

3d  February,  1660.  Kept  the  Fast.  General  Monk 
came  now  to  London  out  of  Scotland;  but  no  man  knew 
what  he  would  do  or  declare;  yet  he  was  met  on 
his  way  by  the  gentlemen  of  all  the  counties  which 
he  passed  with  petitions  that  he  would  recall  the  old 
long-interrupted  Parliament,  and  settle  the  nation  in 
some  order,  being  at  this  time  in  most  prodigious  con- 
fusion, and  under  no  government,  everybody  expecting 
what  would  be  next  and  what  he  would  do. 

loth  February,  1660.  Now  were  the  gates  of  the  city 
broken  down  by  General  Monk ;  which  exceedingly  exas- 
perated the  city,  the  soldiers  marching  up  and  down  as 
triumphing  over  it,  and  all  the  old  army  of  the  fanatics 
put  out  of  their  posts  and  sent  out  of  town. 

nth  February,  1660.  A  signal  day.  Monk,  perceiving 
how  infamous  and  wretched  a  pack  of  knaves  would  have 
still  usurped  the  supreme  power,  and  having  intelligence 
that  they  intended  to  take  away  his  commission,  repent- 
ing of  what  he  had  done  to  the  city,  and  where  he   and 


1659-60  JOHN   EVELYN  331 

his  forces  were  quartered,  marches  to  Whitehall,  dissi- 
pates that  nest  of  robbers,  and  convenes  the  old  Parlia- 
ment, the  Rump  Parliament  (so  called  as  retaining  some 
few  rotten  members  of  the  other)  being  dissolved;  and 
for  joy  whereof  were  many  thousands  of  rumps  roasted 
publicly  in  the  streets  at  the  bonfires  this  night,  with 
ringing  of  bells,  and  universal  jubilee.  This  was  the  first 
good  omen. 

From  17th  February  to  5th  April,  I  was  detained  in 
bed  with  a  kind  of  double  tertian,  the  cruel  effects  of  the 
spleen  and  other  distempers,  in  that  extremity  that  my 
physicians,  Drs.  Wetherborn,  Needham,  and  Claude,  were 
in  great  doubt  of  my  recovery ;  but  it  pleased  God  to  de- 
liver me  out  of  this  affliction,  for  which  I  render  him 
hearty  thanks :  going  to  church  the  8th,  and  receiving  the 
blessed  eucharist. 

During  this  sickness  came  divers  of  my  relations  and 
friends  to  visit  me,  and  it  retarded  my  going  into  the 
country  longer  than  I  intended;  however,  I  wrote  and 
printed  a  letter  in  defense  of  his  Majesty,*  against  a 
wicked  forged  paper,  pretended  to  be  sent  from  Brussels 
to  defame  his  Majesty's  person  and  virtues  and  render 
him  odious,  now  when  everj'body  was  in  hope  and  ex- 
pectation of  the  General  and  Parliament  recalling  him, 
and  establishing  the  Government  on  its  ancient  and  right 
basis.  The  doing  this  toward  the  decline  of  my  sick- 
ness, and  sitting  up  long  in  my  bed,  had  caused  a  small 
relapse,  out  of  which  it  yet  pleased  God  also  to  free  me, 
so  as  by  the  14th  I  was  able  to  go  into  the  coun- 
try, which  I  did  to  my  sweet  and  native  air  at  Wot- 
ton. 

3d  May,  1660.  Came  the  most  happy  tidings  of  his 
Majesty's  gracious  declaration  and  applications  to  the 
Parliament,  General,  and  people,  and  their  dutiful  ac- 
ceptance and  acknowledgment,  after  a  most  bloody  and 
unreasonable  rebellion  of  near  twenty  years.  Praised  be 
forever  the  Lord  of  Heaven,  who  only  doeth  wondrous 
things,  because  his  mercy  endureth  forever. 

8th  May,  1660.  This  day  was  his  Majesty  proclaimed  in 
London,  etc. 

*With  the  title  of  «  The  Late  Ne\vs,  or  Message  from  Brussels  Un- 
masked.»  This,  and  the  pamphlet  which  gave  rise  to  it,  are  reprinted 
in  "Evelyn's  Miscellaneous  Writings.® 


33a  DIARY    OF  London 

9th  May,  1660.  I  was  desired  and  designed  to  accompany 
my  fLord  Berkeley  with  the  public  address  of  the  Parliament, 
General,  etc. ,  to  the  King,  and  invite  him  to  come  over  and 
assume  his  Kingly  Government,  he  being  now  at  Breda; 
but  I  was  yet  so  weak,  I  could  not  make  that  journey  by 
sea,  which  was  not  a  little  to  my  detriment,  so  I  went  to 
London  to  excuse  myself,  returning  the  loth,  having  yet 
received  a  gracious  message  from  his  Majesty  by  Major 
Scot  and  Colonel  Tuke. 

24th  May,  1660.  Came  to  me  Colonel  Morley,  about 
procuring  his  pardon,  now  too  late,  seeing  his  error  and 
neglect  of  the  counsel  I  gave  him,  by  which,  if  he  had 
taken  it  he  had  certainly  done  the  great  work  with  the 
same  ease  that  Monk  did  it,  who  was  then  in  Scotland, 
and  Morley  in  a  post  to  have  done  what  he  pleased,  but 
his  jealousy  and  fear  kept  him  from  that  blessing  and 
honor.  I  addressed  him  to  Lord  Mordaunt,  then  in  great 
favor,  for  his  pardon,  which  he  obtained  at  the  cost  of 
;^i,ooo,  as  I  heard.  Oh,  the  sottish  omission  of  this  gen- 
tleman! what  did  I  not  undergo  of  danger  in  this  nego- 
tiation, to  have  brought  him  over  to  his  Majesty's 
interest,  when  it  was  entirely  in  his  hands ! 

29th  May,  1660.  This  day,  his  Majesty,  Charles  II. 
came  to  London,  after  a  sad  and  long  exile  and  calami- 
tous suffering  both  of  the  King  and  Church,  being  seven- 
teen years.  This  was  also  his  birthday,  and  with  a 
triumph  of  above  20,000  horse  and  foot,  brandishing  their 
swords,  and  shouting  with  inexpressible  joy;  the  ways 
strewn  with  flowers,  the  bells  ringing,  the  streets  hung 
with  tapestry,  fountains  running  with  wine;  the  Mayor, 
'  Aldermen,  and  all  the  companies,  in  their  liveries,  chains 
of  gold,  and  banners ;  Lords  and  Nobles,  clad  in  cloth  of 
silver,  gold,  and  velvet;  the  windows  and  balconies,  all 
set  with  ladies ;  trumpets,  music,  and  myriads  of  people 
flocking,  even  so  far  as  from  Rochester,  so  as  they  were 
seven  hours  in  passing  the  city,  even  from  two  in  the 
afternoon  till  nine  at  night. 

I  stood  in  the  Strand  and  beheld  it,  and  blessed  God. 
And  all  this  was  done  without  one  drop  of  blood  shed, 
and  by  that  very  army  which  rebelled  against  him :  but  it 
was  the  Lord's  doing,  for  such  a  restoration  was  never 
mentioned  in  any  history,  ancient  or  modem,  since  the 
return  of   the  Jews  from  their  Babylonish  captivity;   nor 


i66o  JOHN   EVELYN  333 

so  joyful  a  day  and  so  bright  ever  seen  in  this  nation, 
this  happening  when  to  expect  or  efifect  it  was  past  all 
human  policy, 

4th  June,  1660.  I  received  letters  of  Sir  Richard 
Browne's  landing  at  Dover,  and  also  letters  from  the 
Queen,  which  I  was  to  deliver  at  Whitehall,  not  as  yet 
presenting  myself  to  his  Majesty,  by  reason  of  the  infinite 
concourse  of  people.  The  eagerness  of  men,  women,  and 
children,  to  see  his  Majesty,  and  kiss  his  hands,  was  so 
gfreat,  that  he  had  scarce  leisure  to  eat  for  some  days, 
coming  as  they  did  from  all  parts  of  the  nation;  and  the 
King  being  as  willing  to  give  them  that  satisfaction, 
would  have  none  kept  out,  but  gave  free  access  to  all 
sorts  of  people. 

Addressing  myself  to  the  Duke,  I  was  carried  to  his 
Majesty,  when  very  few  noblemen  were  with  him,  and 
kissed  his  hands,  being  very  graciously  received.  I  then 
returned  home,  to  meet  Sir  Richard  Browne,  who  came 
not  till  the  8th,  after  nineteen  years  exile,  during  all 
which  time  he  kept  up  in  his  chapel  the  Liturgy  and 
Ofi&ces  of  the  Church  of  England,  to  his  no  small  honor, 
and  in  a  time  when  it  was  so  low,  and  as  many  thought 
utterly  lost,  that  in  various  controversies  both  with  Pa- 
pists and  Sectaries,  our  divines  used  to  argue  for  the 
visibility  of  the  Church,  from  his  chapel  and  congregation, 

I  was  all  this  week  to  and  fro  at  court  about  business, 

1 6th  June,  1660.  The  French,  Italian,  and  Dutch  Min- 
isters came  to  make  their  address  to  his  Majesty,  one 
Monsieur  Stoope  pronouncing  the  harangfue  with  great 
eloquence. 

1 8th  June,  1660.  I  proposed  the  embassy  to  Constan- 
tinople for  Mr,  Henshaw  ;  but  my  Lord  Winchelsea 
struck  in. 

Goods  that  had  been  pillaged  from  Whitehall  during 
the  Rebellion  were  now  daily  brought  in,  and  restored 
upon  proclamation;  as  plate,  hangings,  pictures,  etc, 

226.  June,  1660.  The  Warwickshire  gentlemen  (as  did 
all  the  shires  and  chief  towns  in  all  the  three  nations  )  pre- 
sented their  congratulatory  address.  It  was  carried  by 
my  Lord  Northampton, 

30th  June,  1660.  The  Sussex  gentlemen  presented  their 
address,  to  which  wcs  my  hand.  I  went  with  it,  and 
kissed  his  Majesty's  hand,  who  was  pleased   to  own  me 


334  DIARY    OF  London 

more  particularly  by  calling  me  his  old.  acquaintance, 
and  speaking  very  graciously  to  me. 

3d  July,  1660.  I  went  to  Hyde  Park,  where  was  his 
Majesty,  and  abundance  of  gallantry. 

4th  July,  1660.  I  heard  Sir  Samuel  Tuke  harangue  to 
the  House  of  Lords,  in  behalf  of  the  Roman  Catholics, 
and  his  account  of  the  transaction  at  Colchester  in  mur- 
dering Lord  Capel,  and  the  rest  of  those  brave  men,  that 
suffered  in  cold  blood,  after  articles  of  rendition. 

5th  July,  1660.  I  saw  his  Majesty  go  with  as  much 
pomp  and  splendor  as  any  earthly  prince  could  do  to  the 
great  city  feast,  the  first  they  had  invited  him  to  since 
his  return ;  but  the  exceeding  rain  which  fell  all  that  day 
much  eclipsed  its  lustres.  This  was  at  Guildhall,  and 
there  was  also  all  the  Parliament  men,  both  Lords  and 
Commons.  The  streets  were  adorned  with  pageants,  at 
immense  cost. 

6th  July,  1660.  His  Majesty  began  first  to  touch  for 
THE  evil!  according  to  custom,  thus:  his  Majesty  sitting 
under  his  state  in  the  banqueting  house,  the  chirurgeons 
cause  the  sick  to  be  brought,  or  led,  up  to  the  throne, 
where  they  kneeling,  the  King  strokes  their  faces,  or 
cheeks  with  both  his  hands  at  once,  at  which  instant  a 
chaplain  in  his  formalities  says,  *  He  put  his  hands  upon 
them,  and  he  healed  them.*  This  is  said  to  every  one 
in  particular.  When  they  have  all  been  touched,  they 
come  up  again  in  the  same  order,  and  the  other  chaplain 
kneeling,  and  having  angel  gold  *  strung  on  white  ribbon 
on  his  arm,  delivers  them  one  by  one  to  his  Majesty, 
who  puts  them  about  the  necks  of  the  touched  as  they 
pass,  while  the  first  chaplain  repeats,  "That  is  the  true 
light  who  came  into  the  world.  **  Then  follows,  an  Epistle 
(as  at  first  a  Gospel)  with  the  Liturgy,  prayers  for  the 
sick,  with  some  alteration;  lastly  the  blessing;  and  then 
the  Lord  Chamberlain  and  the  Comptroller  of  the  House- 
hold bring  a  basin,  ewer,  and  towel,  for  his  Majesty  to 
wash. 

The  King  received  a  congratulatory  address  from  the 
city  of  Cologne,  in  Germany,  where  he  had  been  some 
time  in  his  exile;  his  Majesty  saying  they  were  the  best 
people  in  the  world,  the  most  kind  and  worthy  to  him 
that  he  ever  met  with. 

^^  Pieces  of  money,  so  called  from  the  figure  of  an  angel  qn  ft?ni. 


i66o  JOHN   EVELYN  335 

I  recommended  Monsieur  Messary  to  be  Judge  Advo- 
cate in  Jersey,  by  the  Vice-Chamberlain's  mediation 
with  the  Earl  of  St.  Albans;  and  saluted  my  excellent 
and  worthy  noble  friend,  my  Lord  Ossory,  son  to  the  Mar- 
quis of  Ormond,  after  many  years'  absence  returned  home. 

8th  July,  1660.  Mr.  Henchman  preached  on  Ephes.  v.  5, 
concerning  Christian  circumspection.  From  henceforth, 
was  the  Liturgy  publicly  used  in  our  churches,  whence  it 
had  been  for  so  many  years  banished. 

15th  July,  i66o.  Came  Sir  George  Carteret  and  lady 
to  visit  us:  he  was  now  Treasurer  of  the  Navy. 

28th  July,  1660.  I  heard  his  Majesty's  speech  in  the 
Lords'  House,  on  passing  the  Bills  of  Tonnage  and 
Poundage;  restoration  of  my  Lord  Ormond  to  his  estate 
in  Ireland;  concerning  the  commission  of  sewers,  and 
continuance  of  the  excise.  In  the  afternoon  I  saluted 
my  old  friend,  the  Archbishop  of  Armagh,  formerly  of 
Londonderry  (Dr,  Bramhall).  He  presented  several  Irish 
divines  to  be  promoted  as  Bishops  in  that  kingdom,  most 
of  the  Bishops  in  the  three  kingdoms  being  now  almost 
worn  out,  and  the  Sees  vacant. 

31st  July,  1660.  I  went  to  visit  Sir  Philip  Warwick, 
now  secretary  to  the  Lord  Treasurer,  at  his  house  in 
North  Cray. 

19th  August,  1660.  Our  vicar  read  the  Thirty-nine 
Articles  to  the  congregation,  the  national  assemblies 
beginning  now  to  settle,  and  wanting  instruction. 

23d  August,  1660.  Came  Duke  Hamilton,  Lord  Lothian, 
and  several  Scottish  Lords,  to  see  my  garden. 

25th  August,  1660.  Colonel  Spencer,  colonel  of  a  regi- 
ment of  horse  in  our  county  of  Kent,  sent  to  me,  and 
intreated  that  I  would  take  a  commission  for  a  troop  of 
horse,  and  that  I  would  nominate  my  lieutenant  and 
ensigns;  I  thanked  him  for  the  honor  intended  me;  but 
would  by  no  means  undertake  the  trouble. 

4th  September,  1660.  I  was  invited  to  an  ordination 
by  the  Bishop  of  Bangor,  in  Henry  VII. 's  chapel,  West- 
minster, and  afterward  saw  the  audience  of  an  Envoy^e 
from  the  Duke  of  Anjou,  sent  to  compliment  his  Maj- 
esty's return. 

5th  September,  1660.  Came  to  visit  and  dine  with  me 
the  Envoy6e  of  the  King  of  Poland,  and  Resident  of  the 
King  of  Denmark,  etc. 


336  DIARY  OF  londoK 

7th  September,  1660,  I  went  to  Chelsea  to  visit  Mr. 
Boyle,  and  see  his  pneumatic  engine  perform  divers  ex- 
periments. Thence,  to  Kensington,  to  visit  Mr.  Hen- 
shaw,  returning  home  that  evening. 

13th  September,  1660.  I  saw  in  South wark,  at  St 
Margaret's  fair,  monkeys  and  apes  dance,  and  do  other 
feats  of  activity  on  the  high  rope;  they  were  gallantly 
clad  d  la  monde^  went  upright,  saluted  the  company, 
bowing  and  pulling  off  their  hats;  they  saluted  one 
another  with  as  good  a  grace  as  if  instructed  by  a 
dancing  master ;  they  turned  heels  over  head  with  a  bas- 
ket having  eggs  in  it,  without  breaking  any;  also,  with 
lighted  candles  in  their  hands,  and  on  their  heads,  with- 
out extinguishing  them,  and  with  vessels  of  water 
without  spilling  a  drop.  I  also  saw  an  Italian  wench 
dance,  and  perform  all  the  tricks  on  the  high  rope  to 
admiration;  all  the  Court  went  to  see  her.  Likewise, 
here  was  a  man  who  took  up  a  piece  of  iron  cannon  of 
about  4oolb.  weight  with  the  hair  of  his  head  only. 

17th  September,  1660.  Went  to  London,  to  see  the 
splendid  entry  of  the  Prince  de  Ligne,  Ambassador  ex- 
traordinary from  Spain;  he  was  general  of  the  Spanish 
King's  horse  in  Flanders,  and  was  accompanied  with 
divers  great  persons  from  thence,  and  an  innumerable 
retinue.  His  train  consisted  of  seventeen  coaches,  with 
six  horses  of  his  own,  besides  a  great  number  of  Eng- 
lish, etc.  Greater  bravery  had  I  never  seen.  He  was 
received  in  the  Banqueting  House,  in  exceeding  state, 
all  the  great  officers  of  Court  attending. 

23d  September,  1650.  In  the  midst  of  all  this  joy 
and  jubilee,  the  Duke  of  Gloucester  died  of  the  small- 
pox, in  the  prime  of  youth,  and  a  prince  of  extraor- 
dinary hopes. 

27th  September,  1660.  The  King  received  the  mer- 
chant's addresses  in  his  closet,  giving  them  assurances  of 
his  persisting  to  keep  Jamaica,  choosing  Sir  Edward 
Massey  Governor.  In  the  afternoon,  the  Danish  Ambas- 
sador's condolences  were  presented,  on  the  death  of  the 
Duke  of  Gloucester.  This  evening,  I  saw  the  Princess 
Royal,  mother  to  the  Prince  of  Orange,  now  come  out 
of  Holland  in  a  fatal  period. 

6th  October,  1660.  I  paid  the  great  tax  of  poll  money, 
levied  for   disbanding   the    army,  till    now    kept    up.     I 


i66o  JOHN  EVELYN  337 

paid  as  an  Esquire  ;^io,  and  one  shilling  for  every  serv- 
ant in  my  house. 

7th  October,  1660.  There  dined  with  me  a  French 
count,  with  Sir  George  Tuke,  who  came  to  take  leave 
of  me,  being  sent  over  to  the  Queen-Mother,  to  break 
the  marriage  of  the  Duke  with  the  daughter  of  Chancellor 
Hyde.  The  Queen  would  fain  have  undone  it;  but  it 
seems  matters  were  reconciled,  on  great  offers  of  the 
Chancellor's  to  befriend  the  Queen,  who  was  much  in 
debt,  and  was  now  to  have  the  settlement  of  her  affairs 
go  through  his  hands. 

nth  October,  1660.  The  regicides  who  sat  on  the  life 
of  our  late  King,  were  brought  to  trial  in  the  Old  Bailey, 
before  a  commission  of  oyer  and  terminer. 

14th  October,  1660.  Axtall,  Carew,  Clement,  Hacker, 
Hewson,  and  Peters,  were  executed. 

17th  October,  1660.  Scot,  Scroop,  Cook,  and  Jones, 
suffered  for  reward  of  their  iniquities  at  Charing  Cross, 
in  sight  of  the  place  where  they  put  to  death  their 
natural  prince,  and  in  the  presence  of  the  King  his  son, 
whom  they  also  sought  to  kill.  I  saw  not  their  execu- 
tion, but  met  their  quarters,  mangled,  and  cut,  and 
reeking,  as  they  were  brought  from  the  gallows  in  baskets 
on  the  hurdle.     Oh,  the    miraculous  providence   of  God  ! 

28th  October,  1660.  His  Majesty  went  to  meet  the 
Queen-Mother. 

29th  October,  1660.  Going  to  London,  my  Lord  Mayor's 
show  stopped  me  in  Cheapside ;  one  of  the  pageants  rep- 
resented a  great  wood,  with  the  royal  oak,  and  history 
of  his  Majesty's  miraculous  escape  at  Boscobel. 

31st  October,  1660.  Arrived  now  to  my  fortieth  year, 
I  rendered  to  Almighty  God  my  due  and   hearty  thanks. 

ist  November,  1660.  I  went  with  some  of  my  relations 
to  Court,  to  show  them  his  Majesty's  cabinet  and  closet 
of  rarities;  the  rare  miniatures  of  Peter  Oliver,  after 
Raphael,  Titian,  and  other  masters,  which  I  infinitely 
esteem ;  also,  that  large  piece  of  the  Duchess  of  Lennox, 
done  in  enamel,  by  Petitot,  and  a  vast  number  of  agates, 
onyxes,  and  intaglios,  especially  a  medallion  of  Caesar,  as 
broad  as  my  hand;  likewise,  rare  cabinets  of  pietra-com- 
messa,  a  landscape  of  needlework,  formerly  presented  by 
the  Dutch  to  King  Charles  I.  Here  I  saw  a  vast  book  of 
maps,  in  a  volume  near  four  yards  large ;  a  curious  ship 
22 


338  DIARY  OF  London 

model;  and,  among  the  cloclcs,  one  that  showed  the  ris- 
ing and  setting  of  the  sun  in  the  zodiac;  the  sun  repre- 
sented by  a  face  and  rays  of  gold,  upon  an  azure  sky, 
observing  the  diurnal  and  annual  motion,  rising  and  set- 
ting behind  a  landscape  of  hills, —  the  work  of  our  famous 
Fromantil, —  and  several  other  rarities. 

3d  October,  1660.  Arrived  the  Queen-Mother  in  Eng- 
land, whence  she  had  been  banished  for  almost  twenty 
years ;  together  with  her  illustrious  daughter,  the  Princess 
Henrietta,  divers  princes  and  noblemen,  accompanying 
them. 

15th  October,   1660.     I  kissed  the  Queen-Mother's  hand. 

20th  October,  1660.  I  dined  at  the  Clerk  Comptroller's 
of  the  Green  Cloth,  being  the  first  day  of  the  re-estab- 
lishment of  the  Court  diet,  and  settling  of  his  Majesty's 
household. 

23d  October,  1660.  Being  this  day  in  the  bedchamber 
of  the  Princess  Henrietta,  where  were  many  great  beau- 
ties and  noblemen,  I  saluted  divers  of  my  old  friends 
and  acquaintances  abroad;  his  Majesty  carrying  my  wife 
to  salute  the  Queen  and  Princess,  and  then  led  her  into 
his  closet,  and  with  his  own  hands  showed  her  divers 
curiosities. 

25th  October,  1660.  Dr.  Rainbow  preached  before  the 
King,  on  Luke  ii.  14,  of  the  glory  to  be  given  God  for 
all  his  mercies,  especially  for  restoring  the  Church  and 
government ;  now  the  service  was  performed  with  music, 
voices,  etc.,  as  formerly. 

27th  November,  1660.  Came  down  the  Clerk  Comp- 
troller [of  the  Green  Cloth]  by  the  Lord  Steward's  ap- 
pointment, to  survey  the  land  at  Sayes  Court,  on  which 
I  had  pretense,  and  to  make  his  report. 

6th  December,  1660.  I  waited  on  my  brother  and  sis- 
ter Evelyn  to  Court.  Now  were  presented  to  his  Majesty 
those  two  rare  pieces  of  drollery,  or  rather  a  Dutch 
Kitchen,  painted  by  Dowe,  so  finely  as  hardly  to  be  dis- 
tinguished from  enamel.  I  was  also  shown  divers  rich 
jewels  and  crystal  vases;  the  rare  head  of  Jo.  Bellino, 
Titian's  master;  Christ  in  the  Garden,  by  Hannibal  Ca- 
racci;  two  incomparable  heads,  by  Holbein;  the  Queen- 
Mother  in  a  miniature,  almost  as  big  as  the  life;  an  ex- 
quisite piece  of  carving;  two  unicorn's  horns,  etc.  This 
in  the  closet. 


i66o-6i  JOHN  EVELYN  339 

13th  December,  1660.  I  presented  my  son,  John,  to 
the  Queen- Mother,  who  kissed  him,  talked  with  and  made 
extraordinary  much  of  him. 

14th  December,  1660.  I  visited  my  Lady  Chancellor,  the 
Marchioness  of  Ormond,  and  Countess  of  Guildford,  all  of 
whom  we  had  known   abroad  in  exile. 

1 8th  December,  1660.  I  carried  Mr.  Spellman,  a  most 
ingenious  gentleman,  grandchild  to  the  learned  Sir  Henry, 
to  my  Lord  Mordaunt,  to  whom  I  had  recommended  him 
as  secretary. 

2ist  December,  1660.  This  day  died  the  Princess  of 
Orange,  of  the  smallpox,  which  entirely  altered  the  face 
and  gallantry  of  the  whole   Court. 

2 2d  December,  1660.  The  marriage  of  the  Chancel- 
lor's daughter  being  now  newly  owned,  I  went  to  see  her, 
she  being  Sir  Richard  Browne's  intimate  acquaintance 
when  she  waited  on  the  Princess  of  Orange ;  she  was  now 
at  her  father's,  at  Worcester  House,  in  the  Strand.  We 
all  kissed  her  hand,  as  did  also  my  Lord  Chamberlain 
(Manchester)  and  Countess  of  Northumberland.  This  was 
a  strange  change  —  can  it  succeed  well?  —  I  spent  the 
evening  at  St.  James's,  whither  the  Princess  Henrietta  was 
retired  during  the  fatal  sickness  of  her  sister,  the  Princess 
of  Orange,  now  come  over  to  salute  the  King  her  brother. 
The  Princess  gave  my  wife  an  extraordinary  compliment 
and  gracious  acceptance,  for  the  ^^  Character  *  *  she  had 
presented  her  the  day  before,  and  which  was  afterward 
printed. 

25th  December,  1660.  Preached  at  the  Abbey,  Dr. 
Earle,  Clerk  of  his  Majesty's  Closet,  and  my  dear  friend, 
now  Dean  of  Westminster,  on  Luke  ii.  13,  14,  condoling 
the  breach  made  in  the  public  joy  by  the  lamented  death 
of  the  Princess. 

30th  December,  1660.  I  dined  at  Court  with  Mr. 
Crane,  Clerk  of  the  Green  Cloth. 

31st  December,  1660.  I  gave  God  thanks  for  his  many 
signal  mercies  to  myself,  church,  and  nation,  this  won- 
derful year. 

2d  January,  1661.  The  Queen-Mother,  with  the  Prin- 
cess Henrietta,  began  her  journey  to  Portsmouth,  in 
order  to  her  return  into  France. 

*«A  Character  of  England, »  reprinted  in  Evelyn's  « Miscellane- 
ous Writing^,"  pp.  141-67. 


34©  DIARY  OF  London 

5th  January,  1661.  I  visited  my  Lord  Chancellor  Clar- 
endon, with  whom  I  had   been    well   acquainted    abroad. 

6th  January,  1661.  Dr.  AUestree  preached  at  the  Ab- 
bey, after  which  four  Bishops  were  consecrated,  Hereford, 
Norwich,     .... 

This  night  was  suppressed  a  bloody  insurrection  of 
some  Fifth-Monarchy  enthusiasts.  Some  of  them  were 
examined  at  the  Council  the  next  day;  but  could  say 
nothing  to  extenuate  their  madness  and  unwarrantable 
zeal. 

I  was  now  chosen  (and  nominated  by  his  Majesty  for 
one  of  the  Council),  by  suffrage  of  the  rest  of  the  mem- 
bers, a  Fellow  of  the  Philosophic  Society  now  meeting 
at  Gresham  College,  where  was  an  assembly  of  divers 
learned  gentlemen.  This  being  the  first  meeting  since 
the  King's  return;  but  it  had  been  begun  some  years 
before  at  Oxford,  and  was  continued  with  interruption 
here  in  London  during  the  Rebellion. 

There  was  smother  rising  of  the  fanatics,  in  which 
some  were  slain. 

1 6th  January,  1661.  I  went  to  the  Philosophic  Club, 
where  was  examined  the  Torricellian  experiment.  I  pre- 
sented my  Circle  of  Mechanical  Trades,  and  had  recom- 
mended to  me  the  publishing  what  I  had  written  of 
Chalcography. 

25th  January,  1661.  After  divers  years  since  I  had 
seen  any  play,  I  went  to  see  acted  *^  The  Scornful  Lady,  '* 
at  a  new  theater  in  Lincoln's-Inn  Fields. 

30th  January,  1661.  Was  the  first  solemn  fast  and  day 
of  humiliation  to  deplore  the  sins  which  had  so  long  pro- 
voked God  against  this  afflicted  church  and  people,  or- 
dered by  Parliament  to  be  annually  celebrated  to 
expiate  the  g^ilt  of  the  execrable  murder  of  the  late 
King. 

This  day  (Oh,  the  stupendous  and  inscrutable  judgments 
of  God!)  were  the  carcasses  of  those  arch-rebels,  Crom- 
well, Bradshawe  (the  judge  who  condemned  his  Majesty), 
and  Ireton  (son-in-law  to  the  Usurper),  dragged  out  of 
their  superb  tombs  in  Westminster  among  the  Kings,  to 
Tyburn,  and  hanged  on  the  gallows  there  from  nine  in 
the  morning  till  six  at  night,  and  then  buried  under  that 
fatal  and  ignominious  monument  in  a  deep  pit ;  thousands 
of  people  who    had   seen   them   in   all   their  pride  being 


i66i  JOHN  EVELYN  341 

spectators.  Look  back  at  October  22,  1658,*  and  be 
astonished!  and  fear  God  and  honor  the  King;  but  meddle 
not  with  them  who  are  given  to  change! 

6th  February,  1661.  To  London,  to  our  Society,  where 
I  gave  notice  of  the  visit  of  the  Danish  Ambassador- 
Extraordinary,  and  was  ordered  to  return  him  their 
acceptance  of  that  honor,  and  to  invite  him  the  next 
meeting  day. 

loth  February,  1661.  Dr.  Baldero  preached  at  Ely- 
house,  on  Matthew  vi.  S3,  of  seeking  early  the  kingdom 
of  God;  after  sermon,  the  Bishop  (Dr.  Wren)  gave  us  the 
blessing,  very  pontifically. 

13th  February,  1661.  I  conducted  the  Danish  Ambas- 
sador to  our  meeting  at  Gresham  College,  where  were 
shown  him  various  experiments  in  vacuo,  and  other 
curiosities. 

2ist  February,  1661.  Prince  Rupert  first  showed  me 
how  to  grave  in  mezzo  tinto. 

26th  February,  166 1.  I  went  to  Lord  Mordaunt's,  at 
Parson's  Green. 

27th  February,  1661.  Ash  Wednesday.  Preached  be- 
fore the  King  the  Bishop  of  London  (Dr.  Sheldon)  on 
Matthew  xviii.  25,  concerning  charity  and  forgiveness. 

8th  March,  1661.  I  went  to  my  Lord  Chancellor's,  and 
delivered  to  him  the  state  of  my  concernment  at  Sayes 
Court. 

9th  March,  1661.  I  went  with  that  excellent  person 
and  philosopher.  Sir  Robert  Murray,  to  visit  Mr.  Boyle 
at  Chelsea,  and  saw  divers  effects  of  the  eolipile  for 
weighing  air. 

13th  March,  1661.  I  went  to  Lambeth,  with  Sir  R. 
Browne's  pretense  to  the  Wardenship  of  Merton  College, 
Oxford,  to  which,  as  having  been  about  forty  years  before 
a  student  of  that  house,  he  was  elected  by  the  votes  of 
every  Fellow  except  one;  but  the  statutes  of  the  house 
being  so  that,  unless  every  Fellow  agree,  the  election 
devolves  to  the  Visitor,  who  is  the  Archbishop  of  Can- 
terbury (Dr.  Juxon),  his  Grace  gave  his  nomination  to 
Sir  T.  Clayton,  resident  there,  and  the  Physic  Professor: 
for  which  I  was  not  at  all  displeased,  because,  though 
Sir  Richard  missed  it  by  much  ingratitude  and  wrong  of 
the  Archbishop  (Clayton  being  no  Fellow),  yet  it  would 

*  The  entry  in  the  «  Diary  »  describing  the  Protector's  funeral. 


34a  DIARY  OF  London 

have  hindered  Sir  Richard  from  attending  at  Court  to 
settle  his  greater  concerns,  and  so  have  prejudiced  me, 
though  he  was  much  inclined  to  have  passed  his  time  in 
a  collegiate  life,  very  unfit  for  him  at  that  time,  for  many 
reasons.  So  I  took  leave  of  his  Grace,  who  was  formerly 
Lord  Treasurer  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I. 

This  afternoon,  Prince  Rupert  showed  me,  with  his  own 
hands,  the  new  way  of  graving,  called  mezzo  tinto,  which 
afterward,  by  his  permission,  I  published  in  my  *^  History 
of  Chalcography  ** ;  this  set  so  many  artists  on  work,  that 
they  soon  arrived  to  the  perfection  it  is  since  come  to, 
emulating  the  tenderest  miniatures. 

Our  Society  now  gave  in  my  relation  of  the  Peak  of 
Teneriffe,  in  the  Great  Canaries,  to  be  added  to  more 
queries  concerning  divers  natural  things  reported  of 
that  island. 

I  returned  home  with  my  Cousin,  Tuke,  now  going  for 
France,  as  sent  by  his  Majesty  to  condole  the  death  of 
that  great  Minister  and  politician.  Count  Mazarine. 

29th  March,  1661.  Dr.  Heylin  (author  of  the  *  Geog- 
raphy**) preached  at  the  Abbey,  on  Cant.  v.  25,  concern- 
ing friendship  and  charity;  he  was,  I  think,  at  this  time 
quite  dark,  and  so  had  been  for  some  years. 

31st  March,  1661.  This  night,  his  Majesty  promised  to 
make  my  wife  Lady  of  the  Jewels  (a  very  honorable 
charge)  to  the  future  Queen  (but  which  he  never  per- 
formed). 

I  St  April,  1 66 1.  I  dined  with  that  great  mathematician 
and  virtuoso.  Monsieur  Zulichem,  inventor  of  the  pendule 
clock,  and  discoverer  of  the  phenomenon  of  Saturn's 
annulus:  he  was  elected  into  our  Society. 

19th  April,  1 66 1.  To  London,  and  saw  the  bathing 
and  rest  of  the  ceremonies  of  the  Knights  of  the  Bath, 
preparatory  to  the  coronation;  it  was  in  the  Painted 
Chamber,  Westminster.  I  might  have  received  this  honor; 
but  declined  it.  The  rest  of  the  ceremony  was  in  the 
chapel  at  Whitehall,  when  their  swords  being  laid  on  the 
altar,  the  Bishop  delivered  them. 

2 2d  April,  1 66 1.  Was  the  splendid  cavalcade  of  his 
Majesty  from  the  Tower  of  London  to  Whitehall,  when 
I  saw  him  in  the  Banqueting  House  create  six  Earls, 
and  as  many  Barons,  viz: 

Edward  Lord  Hyde,    Lord  Chancellor,   Earl  of  Claren- 


i66i  JOHN  EVELYN  343 

don;  supported  by  the  Earls  of  Northumberland  and 
Sussex;  the  Earl  of  Bedford  carried  the  cap  and  coronet, 
the  Earl  of  Warwick,  the  sword,  the  Earl  of  Newport, 
the  mantle. 

Next,  was  Capel,  created  Earl  of  Essex. 
Brudenell,       .     .     .     Cardigan; 
Valentia,  .     .     .     Anglesea; 

Greenvill,        .     .     .     Bath;  and 
Howard,   Earl  of  Carlisle. 

The  Barons  were :  Denzille  Holies ;  Comwallis ;  Booth ; 
Townsend;  Cooper;  Crew;  who  were  led  up  by  several 
Peers,  with  Garter  and  officers  of  arms  before  them ;  when, 
after  obedience  on  their  several  approaches  to  the  throne, 
their  patents  were  presented  by  Garter  King-at-Arms, 
which  being  received  by  the  Lord  Chamberlain,  and  deliv- 
ered to  his  Majesty,  and  by  him  to  the  Secretary  of 
State,  were  read,  and  then  again  delivered  to  his  Maj- 
esty, and  by  him  to  the  several  Lords  created;  they 
were  then  robed,  their  coronets  and  collars  put  on  by  his 
Majesty,  and  they  were  placed  in  rank  on  both  sides  of 
the  state  and  throne;  but  the  Barons  put  off  their  caps 
and  circles,  and  held  them  in  their  hands,  the  Earls 
keeping  on  their  coronets,  as  cousins  to  the  King. 

I  spent  the  rest  of  the  evening  in  seeing  the  several 
archtriumphals  built  in  the  streets  at  several  eminent 
places  through  which  his  -Majesty  was  next  day  to  pass, 
some  of  which,  though  temporary,  and  to  stand  but  one 
year,  were  of  good  invention  and  architecture,  with  in- 
scriptions. 

23d  April,  166 r.  Was  the  coronation  of  his  Majesty 
Charles  IL  in  the  Abbey-Church  of  Westminster;  at  all 
which  ceremony  I  was  present.  The  King  and  his  Nobil- 
ity went  to  the  Tower,  I  accompanying  my  Lord  Vis- 
count Mordaunt  part  of  the  way;  this  was  on  Sunday, 
the  2 2d;  but  indeed  his  Majesty  went  not  till  early  this 
morning,  and  proceeded  from  thence  to  Westminster  in 
this  order: 

First  went  the  Duke  of  York's  Horse  Guards.  Messen- 
gers of  the  Chamber.  136  Esquires  to  the  Knights  of 
the  Bath,  each  of  whom  had  two,  most  richly  habited. 
The  Knight  Harbinger.  Sergeant  Porter.  Sewers  of  the 
Chamber.  Quarter  Waiters.  Six  Clerks  of  Chancery. 
Clerk  of  the  Signet.     Clerk  of  the  Privy  Seal.     Clerks  of 


344  DIARY  OF  London 

the  Council,  of  the  Parliament,  and  of  the  Crown.  Chaplains 
in  ordinary  having  dignities,  lo.  King's  Advocates  and  Re- 
membrancer. Council  at  Law.  Masters  of  the  Chancery. 
Puisne  Sergeants.  King's  Attorney  and  Solicitor.  King's 
eldest  Sergeant.  Secretaries  of  the  French  and  Latin 
tongue.  Gentlemen  Ushers.  Daily  Waiters,  Sewers, 
Carvers,  and  Cupbearers  in  ordinary.  Esquires  of  the 
body,  4.  Masters  of  standing  offices,  being  no  Counsel- 
lors, viz,  of  the  Tents,  Revels,  Ceremonies,  Armory, 
Wardrobe,  Ordnance,  Requests.  Chamberlain  of  the  Ex- 
chequer. Barons  of  the  Exchequer.  Judges.  Lord  Chief- 
Baron.  Lord  Chief -Justice  of  the  Common  Pleas.  Master 
of  the  Rolls.  Lord  Chief-Justice  of  England.  Trumpets. 
Gentlemen  of  the  Privy  Chamber.  Knights  of  the  Bath, 
68,  in  crimson  robes,  exceeding  rich,  and  the  noblest 
show  of  the  whole  cavalcade,  his  Majesty  excepted. 
Knight  Marshal.  Treasurer  of  the  Chamber.  Master  of 
the  Jewels.  Lords  of  the  Privy  Council.  Comptroller  of 
the  Household.  Treasurer  of  the  Household.  Trumpets. 
Sergeant  Trumpet.  Two  Pursuivants  at  Arms.  Barons. 
Two  Pursuivants  at  Arms.  Viscounts.  Two  Heralds. 
Earls.  Lord  Chamberlain  of  the  Household.  Two  Her- 
alds. Marquises.  Dukes.  Heralds  Clarencieux  and  Nor- 
roy.  Lord  Chancellor.  Lord  High  Steward  of  England. 
Two  persons  representing  the  Dukes  of  Normandy  and 
Acquitaine,  viz,  Sir  Richard  Fanshawe  and  Sir  Herbert 
Price,  in  fantastic  habits  of  the  time.  Gentlemen  Ushers. 
Garter.  Lord  Mayor  of  London.  The  Duke  of  York 
alone  (the  rest  by  twos).  Lord  High  Constable  of  ^Eng- 
land. Lord  Great  Chamberlain  of  England.  The  sword 
borne  by  the  Earl  Marshal  of  England.  The  King,  in 
royal  robes  and  equipage.  Afterward,  followed  equerries, 
footmen,  gentlemen  pensioners.  Master  of  the  Horse, 
leading  a  horse  richly  caparisoned.  Vice-Chamberlain. 
Captain  of  the  Pensioners.  Captain  of  the  Guard.  The 
Guard.  The  Horse  Guard.  The  troop  of  Volunteers, 
with  many  other  officers  and  gentlemen. 

This  magnificent  train  on  horseback,  as  rich  as  em- 
broidery, velvet,  cloth  of  gold  and  silver,  and  jewels, 
could  make  them  and  their  prancing  horses,  proceeded 
through  the  streets  strewed  with  flowers,  houses  hung 
with  rich  tapestry,  windows  and  balconies  full  of  ladies; 
the  London  militia  lining  the  ways,  and  the  several  com- 


i66  JOHN  EVELYN  345 

panics,  with  their  banners  and  loud  music,  ranked  in 
their  orders;  the  fountains  running  wine,  bells  ringfing, 
with  speeches  made  at  the  several  triumphal  arches;  at 
that  of  the  Temple  Bar  (near  which  I  stood)  the  Lord 
Mayor  was  received  by  the  Bailiff  of  Westminster,  who, 
in  a  scarlet  robe,  made  a  speech.  Thence,  with  joyful 
acclamations,  his  Majesty  passed  to  Whitehall,  Bonfires 
at  night. 

The  next  day,  being  St.  George's,  he  went  by  water  to 
Westminster  Abbey.  When  his  Majesty  was  entered,  the 
Dean  and  Prebendaries  brought  all  the  regalia,  and 
delivered  them  to  several  noblemen  to  bear  before  the 
King,  who  met  them  at  the  west  door  of  the  church', 
singing  an  anthem,  to  the  choir.  Then,  came  the  Peers, 
in  their  robes,  and  coronets  in  their  hands,  till  his  Majesty 
was  placed  on  a  throne  elevated  before  the  altar.  After- 
ward, the  Bishop  of  London  (the  Archbishop  of  Canter- 
bury being  sick)  went  to  every  side  of  the  throne  to 
present  the  King  to  the  people,  asking  if  they  would  have 
him  for  their  King,  and  do  him  homage;  at  this, 
they  shouted  four  times  *  God  save  King  Charles  II !  * 
Then,  an  anthem  was  sung.  His  Majesty,  attended  by 
three  Bishops,  went  up  to  the  altar,  and  he  offered  a  pall 
and  a  pound  of  gold.  Afterward,  he  sat  down  in  another 
chair  during  the  sermon,  which  was  preached  by  Dr. 
Morley,  Bishop  of  Worcester. 

After  sermon,  the  King  took  his  oath  before  the  altar 
to  maintain  the  religion.  Magna  Charta,  and  laws  of  the 
land.  The  hymn  V/ni  S.  Sp.  followed,  and  then  the 
Litany  by  two  Bishops.  Then  the  Archbishop  of  Canter- 
bury, present,  but  much  indisposed  and  weak,  said  *  Lift 
up  your  hearts  * ;  at  which,  the  King  rose  up,  and  put  off 
his  robes  and  upper  garments,  and  was  in  a  waistcoat  so 
opened  in  divers  places,  that  the  Archbishop  might  com- 
modiously  anoint  him,  first  in  the  palms  of  his  hands, 
when  an  anthem  was  sung,  and  a  prayer  read;  then,  his 
breast  and  between  the  shoulders,  bending  of  both  arms ; 
and,  lastly,  on  the  crown  of  the  head,  with  apposite  hymns 
and  prayers  at  each  anointing;  this  done,  the  Dean  closed 
and  buttoned  up  the  waistcoat.  After  which,  was  a  coif 
put  on,  and  the  cobbium,  sindon  or  dalmatic,  and  over 
this  a  super-tunic  of  cloth  of  gold,  with  buskins  and 
sandals  of  the  same,  spiirs,  and  the  sword ;  a  prayer  being 


346  DIARY  OF  London 

first  said  over  it  by  the  Archbishop  on  the  altar,  before 
it  was  girt  on  by  the  Lord  Chamberlain.  Then,  the 
armill,  mantle,  etc.  Then,  the  Archbishop  placed  the 
crown  imperial  on  the  altar,  prayed  over  it,  and  set  it  on 
his  Majesty's  head,  at  which  all  the  Peers  put  on  their 
coronets.  Anthems,  and  rare  music,  with  lutes,  viols, 
trumpets,  organs,  and  voices,  were  then  heard,  and  the 
Archbishop  put  a  ring  on  his  Majesty's  finger.  The  King 
next  offered  his  sword  on  the  altar,  which  being  redeemed, 
was  drawn,  and  borne  before  him.  Then,  the  Archbishop 
delivered  him  the  sceptre,  with  the  dove  in  one  hand,  and, 
in  the  other,  the  sceptre  with  the  globe.  The  King  kneel- 
ing, the  Archbishop  pronounced  the  blessing.  His  Majesty 
then  ascending  again  his  royal  throne,  while  Te  Deum 
was  singing,  all  the  Peers  did  their  homage,  by  every  one 
touching  his  crown.  The  Archbishop,  and  the  rest  of  the 
Bishops,  first  kissing  the  King;  who  received  the  Holy  Sac- 
rament, and  so  disrobed,  yet  with  the  crown  imperial  on 
his  head,  and  accompanied  with  all  the  nobility  in  the 
former  order,  he  went  on  foot  upon  blue  cloth,  which  was 
spread  and  reached  from  the  west  door  of  the  Abbey  to 
Westminster  stairs,  when  he  took  water  in  a  tri- 
umphal barge  to  Whitehall  where  was  extraordinary  feast- 
ing. 

24th  April,  1 66 1.  I  presented  his  Majesty  with  his 
"  Panegyric  **  in  the  Privy  Chamber,  which  he  was  pleased 
to  accept  most  graciously;  I  gave  copies  to  the  Lord 
Chancellor,  and  most  of  the  noblemen  who  came  to  me 
for  it.  I  dined  at  the  Marquis  of  Ormond's  where  was  a 
magnificent  feast,  and  many  great  persons. 

ist  May,  1 66 1.  I  went  to  Hyde  Park  to  take  the  air, 
where  was  his  Majesty  and  an  innumerable  appearance 
of  gallants  and  rich  coaches,  being  now  a  time  of  uni- 
versal festivity  and  joy. 

2d  May,  166 1.  I  had  audience  of  my  Lord  Chancellor 
about  my  title  to  Sayes  Court. 

3d  May,  1 66 1.  I  went  to  see  the  wonderful  engine  for 
weaving  silk  stockings,  said  to  have  been  the  invention 
of  an  Oxford  scholar  forty  years  since;  and  I  returned 
by  Fromantil's,  the  famous  clockmaker,  to  see  some  pen- 
dules,  Monsieur  Zulichem  being  with  us, 

*  A  poem  which  Evelyn  had  composed  on  his  Majesty's  Coronation ; 
the  23d  of  April,  1661,  being  St  George's  day. 


i66i  JOHN   EVELYN  347 

This  evening,  I  was  with  my  Lord  Brouncker,  Sir 
Robert  Murray,  Sir  Patrick  Neill,  Monsieur  Zulichem, 
and  Bull  (all  of  them  of  our  Society,  and  excellent  mathe- 
maticians), to  show  his  Majesty,  who  was  present,  Sat- 
urn's annulus,  as  some  thought,  but  as  Zulichem  affirmed 
with  his  balteus  (as  that  learned  gentleman  had  published), 
very  near  eclipsed  by  the  moon,  near  the  Mons  Porphy- 
ritis;  also,  Jupiter  and  satellites,  through  his  Majesty's 
great  telescope,  drawing  thirty-five  feet;  on  which  were 
divers  discourses. 

8th  May,  1661,  His  Majesty  rode  in  state,  with  his 
imperial  crown  on,  and  all  the  peers  in  their  robes,  in 
great  pomp  to  the  Parliament  now  newly  chosen  (the  old 
one  being  dissolved) ;  and,  that  evening,  declared  in  coun- 
cil his  intention  to  marry  the  Infanta  of  Portugal, 

9th  May,  1 66 1.  At  Sir  Robert  Murray's,  where  I  met 
Dr.  Wallis,  Professor  of  Geometry  in  Oxford,  where  was 
discourse  of  several  mathematical  subjects. 

nth  May,  1661.  My  wife  presented  to  his  Majesty  the 
Madonna  she  had  copied  in  miniature  from  P.  Oliver's 
painting,  after  Raphael,  which  she  wrought  with  extraor- 
dinary pains  and  judgment.  The  King  was  infinitely 
pleased  with  it,  and  caused  it  to  be  placed  in  his  cabinet 
among  his  best  paintings. 

13th  May,  1 66 1.  I  heard  and  saw  such  exercises  at 
the  election  of  scholars  at  Westminster  School  to  be  sent 
to  the  University  in  Latin,  Greek,  Hebrew,  and  Arabic, 
in  themes  and  extemporary  verses,  as  wonderfully  as- 
tonished me  in  such  youths,  with  such  readiness  and  wit, 
some  of  them  not  above  twelve  or  thirteen  years  of  age. 
Pity  it  is,  that  what  they  attain  here  so  ripely,  they 
either  do  not  retain,  or  do  not  improve  more  consider- 
ably when  they  come  to  be  men,  though  many  of  them 
do;  and  no  less  is  to  be  blamed  their  odd  pronouncing 
of  Latin,  so  that  out  of  England  none  were  able  to  un- 
derstand, or  endure  it.  The  examinants,  or 'posers,  were, 
Dr.  Duport,  Greek  Professor  at  Cambridge;  Dr.  Fell,  Dean 
of  Christ  Church,  Oxford;  Dr.  Pierson;  Dr.  Allestree, 
Dean  of  Westminster,   and  any  that  would. 

14th  May,  1 66 1.  His  Majesty  was  pleased  to  discourse 
with  me  concerning  several  particulars  relating  to  our 
Society,  and  the  planet  Saturn,  etc.,  as  he  sat  at  sup- 
per in  the  withdrawing-room  to  his  bedchamber. 


348  DIARY  OF  deptford 

i6th  May,  1661.  I  dined  with  Mr.  Garmus,  the  Resi- 
dent from  Hamburg,  who  continued  his  feast  near  nine 
whole  hours,  according  to  the  custom  of  his  country, 
though  there  was  no  great  excess  of  drinking,  no  man 
being  obliged  to  take  more  than  he  liked. 

2 2d  May,  1 66 1.  The  Scotch  Covenant  was  burnt  by 
the  common  hangman  in  divers  places  in  London.  Oh, 
prodigious  change! 

29th  May,  1 66 1.  This  was  the  first  anniversary  ap- 
pointed by  act  of  Parliament  to  be  observed  as  a  day  of 
general  thanksgiving  for  the  miraculous  restoration  of 
his  Majesty:  our  vicar  preaching  on  Psalm  cxviii.  24,  re- 
quiring us  to  be  thankful  and  rejoice,  as  indeed  we  had  cause. 

4th  June,  1 66 1.  Came  Sir  Charles  Harbord,  his  Maj- 
esty's surveyor,  to  take  an  account  of  what  grounds  I 
challenged  at  Sayes  Court. 

27th  June,  1 66 1,  I  saw  the  Portugal  ambassador  at 
dinner  with  his  Majesty  in  state,  where  was  excellent 
music. 

2d  July,  1 66 1.  I  went  to  see  the  New  Spring-Garden, 
at  Lambeth,  a  prettily  contrived  plantation. 

19th  July,  1 66 1.  We  tried  our  Diving-Bell,  or  engine, 
in  the  water  dock  at  Deptford,  in  which  our  curator  con- 
tinued half  an  hour  under  water;  it  was  made  of  cast 
lead,  let  down  with  a  strong  cable. 

3d  August,  1661.  Came  my  Lord  Hatton,  Comptroller 
of  his  Majesty's  household  to  visit  me. 

9th  August,  1 66 1.  I  tried  several  experiments  on  the 
sensitive  plant  and  humilis^  which  contracted  with  the 
least  touch  of  the  sun  through  a  burning  glass,  though 
it  rises  and  opens  only  when  it  shines  on  it. 

I  first  saw  the  famous  Queen  Pine  brought  from  Bar- 
badoes,  and  presented  to  his  Majesty;  but  the  first  that 
were  ever  seen  in  England  were  those  sent  to  Cromwell 
four  years  since. 

I  dined  at  Mr.  Palmer's  in  Gray's  Inn,  whose  curiosity 
excelled  in  clocks  and  pendules,  especially  one  that  had 
innumerable  motions,  and  played  nine  or  ten  tunes  on  the 
bells  very  finely,  some  of  them  set  in  parts:  which  was 
very  harmonious.  It  was  wound  up  but  once  in  a  quar- 
ter. He  had  also  good  telescopes  and  mathematical  in- 
struments, choice  pictures,  and  other  curiosities.  Thence, 
we  went  to  that  famous  mountebank,  Jo.  Punteus. 


i66i  JOHN   EVELYN  349 

Sir  Kenelm  Digby  presented  every  one  of  us  his  **  Dis- 
course of  the  Vegetation  of  Plants  '^ ;  and  Mr.  Henshaw,  his 
"  History  of  Saltpeter  and  Gunpowder. "  I  assisted  him 
to  procure  his  place  of  French  Secretary  to  the  King, 
which  he  purchased  of  Sir  Henry  De  Vic. 

I  went  to  that  famous  physician,  Sir  Fr.  Prujean,  who 
showed  me  his  laboratory,  his  workhouse  for  turning, 
and  other  mechanics;  also  many  excellent  pictures,  espe- 
cially the  Magdalen  of  Caracci;  and  some  incomparable 
pay  sages  done  in  distemper;  he  played  to  me  likewise  on 
the  polythore^  an  instrument  having  something  of  the  harp, 
lute,  and  theorbo;  by  none  known  in  England,  nor  de- 
scribed by  any  author,  nor  used,  but  by  this  skillful  and 
learned  Doctor. 

15th  August,  1 66 1.  I  went  to  Tunbridge-Wells,  my  wife 
being  there  for  the  benefit  of  her  health.  Walking  about 
the  solitudes,  I  greatly  admired  the  extravagant  turnings, 
insinuations,  and  growth  of  certain  birch  trees  among  the 
rocks. 

13th  September,  1661.  I  presented  my  *-'•  Fumifugium''*  * 
dedicated  to  his  Majesty,  who  was  pleased  that  I  should 
publish  it  by  his  special  commands,  being  much  gratified 
with  it. 

1 8th  September,  1661,  This  day  was  read  our  petition 
to  his  Majesty  for  his  royal  grant,  authorizing  our  Society 
to  meet  as  a  corporation,  with  several  privileges. 

An  exceedingly  sickly,  wet  autumn. 

ist  October,  1661.  I  sailed  this  morning  with  his 
Majesty  in  one  of  his  yachts  (or  pleasure  boats),  vessels 
not  known  among  us  till  the  Dutch  East  India  Company 
presented  that  curious  piece  to  the  King ;  being  very  ex- 
cellent sailing  vessels.  It  was  on  a  wager  between  his 
other  new  pleasure  boat,  built  frigate-like,  and  one  of 
the  Duke  of  York's;  the  wager  ;!^ioo;  the  race  from 
Greenwich  to  Gravesend  and  back.  The  King  lost  it 
going,  the  wind  being  contrary,  but  saved  stakes  in  re- 
turning. There  were  divers  noble  persons  and  lords  on 
board,  his  Majesty  sometimes  steering  himself.  His 
barge  and  kitchen  boat  attended.  I  brake  fast  this 
morning  with  the  King  at  return  in  his  smaller  vessel, 
he  being   pleased   to   take   me  and  only  four  more,  who 

*  This  pamphlet  having  become  scarce,  was  in  1772  reprinted  in  4to. 
and  is  now  incorporated  in  Evelyn's  «  Miscellaneous  Writings. » 


35©  DIARY  OF  London 

were  noblemen,  with  him;  but  dined  in  his  yacht,  where 
we  all  ate  together  with  his  Majesty.  In  this  passage 
he  was  [pleased  to  discourse  to  me  about  my  book  in- 
veighing against  the  nuisance  of  the  smoke  of  London, 
and  proposing  expedients  how,  by  removing  those  par- 
ticulars I  mentioned,  it  might  be  reformed;  command- 
ing me  to  prepare  a  Bill  against  the  next  session  of 
Parliament,  being,  as  he  said,  resolved  to  have  something 
done  in  it.  Then  he  discoursed  to  me  of  the  improve- 
ment of  gardens  and  buildings,  now  very  rare  in  England 
comparatively  to  other  countries.  He  then  commanded 
me  to  draw  up  the  matter  of  fact  happening  at  the 
bloody  encounter  which  then  had  newly  happened  be- 
tween the  French  and  Spanish  Ambassadors  near  the 
Tower,  jcontending  for  precedency,  at  the  reception  of  the 
Swedish  Ambassador;  giving  me  orders  to  consult  Sir 
William  Compton,  Master  of  the  Ordnance,  to  inform 
me  of  what  he  knew  of  it,  and  with  his  favorite,  Sir 
Charles  Berkeley,  captain  of  the  Duke's  life  guard,  then 
present  with  his  troop  and  three  foot  companies;  with 
some  other  reflections  and  instructions,  to  be  prepared 
with  a  declaration  to  take  off  the  reports  which  went 
about  of  his  Majesty's  partiality  in  the  affairs,  and  of 
his  officers'  and  spectators"  rudeness  while  the  conflict 
lasted.  So  I  came  home  that  night,  and  went  next  morn- 
ing to  London,  where  from  the  officers  of  the  Tower,  Sir 
William  Compton,  Sir  Charles  Berkeley,  and  others  who 
were  attending  at  this  meeting  of  the  Ambassadors  three 
days  before,  having  collected  what  I  could,  I  drew  up  a 
Narrative  in  vindication  of  his  Majesty,  and  the  carriage 
of  his  officers  and  standers-by. 

On  Thursday  his  Majesty  sent  one  of  the  pages  of  the 
back  stairs  for  me  to  wait  on  him  with  my  papers,  in 
his  cabinet  where  was  present  only  Sir  Henry  Bennett 
(Privy- Purse),  when  beginning  to  read  to  his  Majesty 
what  I  had  drawn  up,  by  the  time  I  had  read  half  a 
page,  came  in  Mr.  Secretary  Morice  with  a  large  paper, 
desiring  to  speak  with  his  Majesty,  who  told  him  he  was 
now  very  busy,  and  therefore  ordered  him  to  come  again 
some  other  time ;  the  Secretary  replied  that  what  he  had 
in  his  hand  was  of  extraordinary  importance.  So  the 
King  rose  up,  and,  commanding  me  to  stay,  went  aside 
to  a  corner  of  the  room  with  the  Secretary;  after  a  whilc^ 


i66i  JOHN  EVELYN  351 

the  Secretary  being  dispatched,  his  Majesty  returning-  to 
me  at  the  table,  a  letter  was  brought  him  from  Madame 
out  of  France;*  this  he  read  and  then  bid  me  proceed 
from  where  I  left  off.  This  I  did  till  I  had  ended  all 
the  narrative,  to  his  Majesty's  great  satisfaction;  and, 
after  I  had  inserted  one  or  two  more  clauses,  in  which 
his  Majesty  instructed  me,  commanded  that  it  should 
that  night  be  sent  to  the  posthouse,  directed  to  the  Lord 
Ambassador  at  Paris  (the  Earl  of  St.  Alban's),  and  then 
at  leisure  to  prepare  him  a  copy,  which  he  would  publish. 
This  I  did,  and  immediately  sent  my  papers  to  the  Sec- 
retary of  State,  with  his  Majesty's  express  command  of 
dispatching  them  that  night  for  France.  Before  I  went 
out  of  the  King's  closet,  he  called  me  back  to  show  me 
some  ivory  statues,  and  other  curiosities  that  I  had  not 
seen  before. 

3d  October,  1661.  Next  evening,  being  in  the  with- 
dra wing-room  adjoining  the  bedchamber,  his  Majesty  espy- 
ing me  came  to  me  from  a  great  crowd  of  noblemen  stand- 
ing near  the  fire,  and  asked  me  if  I  had  done;  and  told 
me  he  feared  it  might  be  a  little  too  sharp,  on  second 
thoughts,  for  he  had  that  morning  spoken  with  the 
French  Ambassador,  who  it  seems  had  palliated  the 
matter,  and  was  very  tame;  and  therefore  directed  me 
where  I  should  soften  a  period  or  two,  before  it  was  pub- 
lished (as  afterward  it  was).  This  night  also  he  spoke  to 
me  to  give  him  a  sight  of  what  was  sent,  and  to  bring 
it  to  him  in  his  bedchamber;  which  I  did,  and  received 
it  again  from  him  at  dinner,  next  day.  By  Saturday, 
having  finished  it  with  all  his  Majesty's  notes,  the  King 
being  gone  abroad,  I  sent  the  papers  to  Sir  Henry  Ben- 
nett (Privy-Purse  and  a  great  favorite),  and  slipped  home, 
being  myself  much  indisposed  and  harassed  with  going 
about,  and  sitting  up  to  write. 

19th  October,  1661.  I  went  to  London  to  visit  my 
Lord  of  Bristol,  having  been  with  Sir  John  Denham  (his 
Majesty's  surveyor)  to  consult  with  him  about  the  plac- 
ing of  his  palace  at  Greenwich,  which  I  would  have  had 
built  between  the  river  and  the  Queen's  house,  so  as  a 
large  square  cut  should  have  let  in  the  Thames  like  a 
bay;  but  Sir  John  was  for  setting  it  on  piles  at  the  very 
brink  of  the  water,  which  I    did   not   assent    to;    and  so 

*  Henrietta  Maxia. 


352  DIARY  OP  LONDON 

came  away,  knowing  Sir  John  to  be  a  better  poet  than 
architect,  though  he  had  Mr.  Webb  (Inigo  Jones's  man) 
to  assist  him. 

29th  October,  i66i.  I  saw  the  Lord  Mayor  pass  in  his 
water  triumph  to  Westminster,  being  the  first  solemnity 
of  this  nature  after  twenty  years. 

2d  November,  1661.  Came  Sir  Henry  Bennett,  since 
Lord  Arlington,  to  visit  me,  and  to  acquaint  me  that  his 
Majesty  would  do  me  the  honor  to  come  and  see  my 
garden;  but,  it  being  then  late,  it  was  deferred. 

3d  November,  1661.  One  Mr.  Breton  preached  his 
probation  sermon  at  our  parish  church,  and  indeed  made 
a  most  excellent  discourse  on  John  i.  29,  of  God's  free 
grace  to  penitents,  so  that  I  could  not  but  recommend 
him  to  the  patron. 

loth  November,  1661.  In  the  afternoon,  preached  at 
the  Abbey  Dr.  Basire,  that  great  traveler,  or  rather 
French  Apostle,  who  had  been  planting  the  Church  of 
England  in  divers  parts  of  the  Levant  and  Asia.  He 
showed  that  the  Church  of  England  was,  for  purity  of 
doctrine,  substance,  decency,  and  beauty,  the  most  perfect 
under  Heaven ;  that  England  was  the  very  land  of  Goshen. 

nth  November,  1661.  I  was  so  idle  as  to  go  to  see  a 
play  called  *  Love  and  Honor.**  Dined  at  Arundel  House; 
and  that  evening  discoursed  with  his  Majesty  about  ship- 
ping, in  which  he  was  exceedingly  skillful. 

15th  November,  i66i.  I  dined  with  the  Duke  of  Or- 
mond,  who  told  me  there  were  no  moles  in  Ireland,  nor 
any  rats  till  of  late,  and  that  in  but  one  county;  but  it 
was  a  mistake  that  spiders  would  not  live  there,  only 
they  were  not  poisonous.  Also,  that  they  frequently 
took  salmon  with  dogs. 

16th  November,  1661.  I  presented  my  translation  of 
*  Naudaeus  concerning  Libraries  *  to  my  Lord  Chancellor ; 
but  it  was  miserably  false  printed. 

17th  November,  1661.  Dr.  Creighton,  a  Scot,  author  of 
the  **  Florentine  Council,  *  and  a  most  eloquent  man  and 
admirable  Grecian,  preached  on  Cant.  vi.  13,  celebrating 
the  return  and  restoration  of  the  Church  and  King. 

20th  November,  1661.  At  the  Royal  Society,  Sir  Will- 
iam Petty  proposed  divers  things  for  the  improvement 
of  shipping;  a  versatile  keel  that  should  be  on  hinges^ 
and  concerning  sheathing  ships  with  thin  lead. 


1 66 1  JOHN   EVELYN  353 

24th  November,  1661.  This  night  his  Majesty  fell  into 
discourse  with  me  concerning  bees,  etc. 

26th  November,  1661.  I  saw  ^*  Hamlet,  Prince  of  Den- 
mark** played;  but  now  the  old  plays  began  to  disgust 
this  refined  age,  since  his  Majesty's  being  so  long 
abroad. 

28th  November,  1661.  I  dined  at  Chiffinch's  house- 
warming,  in  St.  James's  Park;  he  was  his  Majesty's 
closet-keeper,  and  had  his  new  house  full  of  good  pic- 
tures, etc.  There  dined  with  us  Russell,  Popish  Bishop 
of  Cape  Verd,  who  was  sent  out  to  negotiate  his  Majesty's 
match  with  the  Infanta  of  Portugal,  after  the  Ambassador 
was  returned. 

29th  November,  1661.  I  dined  at  the  Countess  of 
Peterborough's  and  went  that  evening  to  Parson's 
Green  with  my  Lord  Mordaunt,  with  whom  I  stayed 
that  night. 

ist  December,  1661.  I  took  leave  of  my  Lord  Peter- 
borough, going  now  to  Tanglier,  which  was  to  be  deliv- 
ered to  the  English  on  the  match  with  Portugal, 

3d  December,  1661.  By  universal  suffrage  of  our  phil- 
osophic assembly,  an  order  was  made  and  registered  that 
I  should  receive  their  public  thanks  for  the  honorable 
mention  I  made  of  them  by  the  name  of  Royal  Society, 
in  my  Epistle  dedicatory  to  the  Lord  Chancellor,  before 
my  Traduction  of  Naudaeus.  Too  great  an  honor  for  a 
trifle. 

4th  December,  1661.  I  had  much  discourse  with  the 
Duke  of  York,  concerning  strange  cures  he  affirmed  of 
a  woman  who  swallowed  a  whole  ear  of  barley,  which 
worked  out  at  her  side.  I  told  him  of  the  knife  swal- 
lowed* and  the  pins. 

I  took  leave  of  the  Bishop  of  Cape  Verd,  now  going  in 
the  fleet  to  bring  over  our  new  Queen. 

7th  December,  1661.  I  dined  at  Arundel  House,  the 
day  when  the  great  contest  in  Parliament  was  concern- 
ing the  restoring  the  Duke  of  Norfolk;  however,  it  was 
carried    for    him.      I     also    presented    my    little    trifle 

♦This  refers  to  the  Dutchman,  ante,  28th  Augfust,  1641;  and  to  an 
extraordinary  case  contained  in  a  <<  Miraculous  Cure  of  the  Prussian 
Swallow  Knife,  etc.,  by  Dan  Lakin,  P.  C.,>>  quarto,  London,  1642, 
with  a  woodcut  representing  the  object  of  the  cure  and  the  size  of 
the  knife. 

83 


354  DIARY  OF  London 

of  Sumptuary  Laws,  entitled  "  Tyrannus  *  [or  ^*  The 
Mode  »]. 

14th  December,  1661.  I  saw  otter  hunting  with  the 
King,  and  killed  one. 

1 6th  December,  1661.  I  saw  a  French  comedy  acted 
at  Whitehall. 

20th  December,  166 1.  The  Bishop  of  Gloucester 
preached  at  the  Abbey  at  the  funeral  of  the  Bishop  of 
Hereford,  brother  to  the  Duke  of  Albemarle.  It  was  a 
decent  solemnity.  There  was  a  silver  miter,  with  epis- 
copal robes,  borne  by  the  herald  before  the  hearse,  which 
was  followed  by  the  Duke  his  brother,  and  all  the  bishops, 
with  divers  noblemen, 

23d  December,  1661.  I  heard  an  Italian  play  and  sing 
to  the  guitar  with  extraordinary  skill  before  the  Duke. 

ist  January,  1661-62.  I  went  to  London,  invited  to  the 
solemn  foolery  of  the  Prince  de  la  Grange,  at  Lincoln's- 
Inn,  where  came  the  King,  Duke,  etc.  It  began  with  a 
grand  masque,  and  a  formal  pleading  before  the  mock 
Princes,  Grandees,  Nobles,  and  Knights  of  the  Sun.  He 
had  his  Lord  Chancellor,  Chamberlain,  Treasurer,  and 
other  Royal  Officers,  gloriously  clad  and  attended.  It 
ended  in  a  magnificent  banquet.  One  Mr.  Lort  was  the 
young  spark  who  maintained  the  pageantry. 

6th  January,  1662.  This  evening,  according  to  custom, 
his  Majesty  opened  the  revels  of  that  night  by  throwing 
the  dice  himself  in  the  privy  chamber,  where  was  a  table 
set  on  purpose,  and  lost  his  ;^ioo.  (The  year  before  he 
won  ;^i,5oo.)  The  ladies  also  played  very  deep.  I  came 
away  when  the  Duke  of  Ormond  had  won  about  ;^  1,000, 
and  left  them  still  at  passage,  cards,  etc.  At  other 
tables,  both  there  and  at  the  groom-porter's,  observing 
the  wicked  folly  and  monstrous  excess  of  passion  among 
some  losers;  sorry  am  I  that  such  a  wretched  custom  as 
play  to  that  excess  should  be  countenanced  in  a  Court, 
which  ought  to  be  an  example  of  virtue  to  the  rest  of 
the  kingdom. 

9th  January,  1662.  I  saw  acted  «The  Third  Part  of 
the  Siege  of  Rhodes."  In  this  acted  the  fair  and  famous 
comedian  called  Roxalana  from  the  part  she  performed; 
and  I  think  it  was  the  last,  she  being  taken  to  be  the  Earl 
of  Oxford's  Miss  (as  at  this  time  they  began  to  call  lewd 
women).     It  was  in  recitative  music. 


1 66 1 -62  JOHN  EVELYN  355 

loth  January,  1662.  Being  called  into  his  Majesty's 
closet  when  Mr.  Cooper,  the  rare  limner,  was  crayoning 
of  the  King's  face  and  head,  to  make  the  stamps  for  the 
new  milled  money  now  contriving,  I  had  the  honor  to 
hold  the  candle  while  it  was  doing,  he  choosing  the  night 
and  candlelight  for  the  better  finding  out  the  shadows. 
During  this,  his  Majesty  discoursed  with  me  on  several 
things  relating  to  painting  and  graving. 

nth  January,  1662.  I  dined  at  Arundel  House,  where 
I  heard  excellent  music  performed  by  the  ablest  mas- 
ters, both  French  and  English,  on  theorbos,  viols,  organs, 
and  voices,  as  an  exercise  against  the  coming  of  the 
Queen,  purposely  composed  for  her  chapel.  Afterward, 
my  Lord  Aubigny  (her  Majesty's  Almoner  to  be)  showed 
us  his  elegant  lodging,  and  his  wheel-chair  for  ease  and 
motion,  with  divers  other  curiosities;  especially  a  kind 
of  artificial  glass,  or  porcelain,  adorned  with  relievos  of 
paste,  hard  and  beautiful.  Lord  Aubigny  (brother  to 
the  Duke  of  Lennox)  was  a  person  of  good  sense,  but 
wholly  abandoned  to  ease  and  effeminacy. 

I  received  of  Sir  Peter  Ball,  the  Queen's  attorney,  a 
draft  of  an  Act  against  the  nuisance  of  the  smoke  of 
London,  to  be  reformed  by  removing  several  trades 
which  are  the  cause  of  it,  and  endanger  the  health  of 
the  King  and  his  people.  It  was  to  have  been  offered 
to  the  Parliament,  as  his  Majesty  commanded. 

12th  January,  1662.  At  St.  James's  chapel  preached, 
or  rather  harangued,  the  famous  orator.  Monsieur  Moms, 
in  French.  There  were  present  the  King,  Duke,  French 
Ambassador,  Lord  Aubigny,  Earl  of  Bristol,  and  a  world 
of  Roman  Catholics,  drawn  thither  to  hear  this  eloquent 
Protestant. 

15th  January,  1662.  There  was  a  general  fast  through 
the  whole  nation,  and  now  celebrated  in  London,  to  avert 
God's  heavy  judgments  on  this  land.  Great  rain  had 
fallen  without  any  frost,  or  seasonable  cold,  not  only  in 
England,  but  in  Sweden,  and  the  most  northern  parts, 
being  here  near  as  warm  as  at  midsummer  in  some  years. 

This  solemn  fast  was  held  for  the  House  of  Com- 
mons at  St.  Margaret's.  Dr.  Reeves,  Dean  of  Windsor, 
preached  on  Joshua  vii.  12,  showing  how  the  neglect  of 
exacting  justice  on  offenders  (by  which  he  insinuated 
such  of  the  old  King's  murderers  as  were  yet  reprieved 


356  DIARY    OF  London 

and  in  the  Tower)  was  a  main  cause  of  God's  punishing 
a  land.  He  brought  in  that  of  the  Gibeonites,  as  well  as 
Achan  and  others,  concluding  with  an  eulogy  of  the  Par- 
liament for  their  loyalty  in  restoring  the  Bishops  and 
Clergy,  and  vindicating  the  Church  from  sacrilege. 

1 6th  January,  1662.  Having  notice  of  the  Duke  of 
York's  intention  to  visit  my  poor  habitation  and  garden 
this  day,  I  returned,  when  he  was  pleased  to  do  me  that 
honor  of  his  own  accord,  and  to  stay  some  time  viewing 
such  things  as  I  had  to  entertain  his  curiosity.  Afterward 
he  caused  me  to  dine  with  him  at  the  Treasurer  of  the 
Navy's  house,  and  to  sit  with  him  covered  at  the  same 
table.  There  were  his  Highness,  the  Duke  of  Ormond, 
and  several  Lords.  Then  they  viewed  some  of  my 
grounds  about  a  project  for  a  receptacle  for  ships  to  be 
moored  in,  which  was  laid  aside  as  a  fancy  of  Sir  Nicho- 
las Crisp  After  this,  I  accompanied  the  Duke  to  an 
East  India  vessel  that  lay  at  Blackwall,  where  we  had 
entertainment  of  several  curiosities.  Among  other  spirit- 
uous drinks,  as  punch,  etc.,  they  gave  us  Canary  that 
had  been  carried  to  and  brought  from  the  Indies,  which 
was  indeed  incomparably  good.  I  returned  to  London 
with  his  Highness.  This  night  was  acted  before  his 
Majesty  *The  Widow,*  a  lewd  play. 

i8th  January,  1662,  I  came  home  to  be  private  a  lit- 
tle, not  at  all  affecting  the  life  and  hurry  of  Court. 

24th  January,  1662.  His  Majesty  entertained  me  with 
his  intentions  of  building  his  Palace  of  Greenwich,  and 
quite  demolishing  the  old  one ;  on  which  I  declared  my 
thoughts. 

25th  January,  1662.  I  dined  with  the  Trinity  Company 
at  their  house,  that  corporation  being  by  charter  fixed 
at  Deptford. 

3d  February,  1662.  I  went  to  Chelsea,  to  see  Sir 
Arthur  Gorges'  house. 

nth  February,  1662.  I  saw  a  comedy  acted  before 
the  Duchess  of  York  at  the  Cockpit.    The  King  was  not  at  it. 

17th  February,  1662.  I  went  with  my  Lord  of  Bristol 
to  see  his  house  at  Wimbledon,  newly  bought  of  the 
Queen- Mother,  to  help  contrive  the  garden  after  the 
modem,  It  is  a  delicious  place  for  prospect  and  the 
thickets,  but  the  soil  cold  and  weeping  clay.  Returned 
that  evening  with  Sir  Henry  Bennett. 


i662  JOHN  EVELYN  357 

This  night  was  buried  in  Westminster  Abbey  the  Queen 
of  Bohemia,  after  all  her  sorrows  and  afflictions  being 
come  to  die  in  the  arms  of  her  nephew,  the  King;  also 
this  night  and  the  next  day  fell  such  a  storm  of  hail, 
thunder,  and  lightning,  as  never  was  seen  the  like  in  any 
man's  memory,  especially  the  tempest  of  wind,  being 
southwest,  which  subverted,  besides  huge  trees,  many 
houses,  innumerable  chimneys  (among  others  that  of  my 
parlor  at  Sayes  Court),  and  made  such  havoc  at  land 
and  sea,  that  several  perished  on  both.  Divers  lamentable 
fires  were  also  kindled  at  this  time;  so  exceedingly  was 
God's  hand  against  this  ungrateful  and  vicious  nation 
and  Court. 

20th  February,  1662.  I  returned  home  to  repair  my 
house,  miserably  shattered  by  the  late  tempest. 

24th  March,  1662.  I  returned  home  with  my  whole 
family,  which  had  been  most  part  of  the  winter,  since 
October,  at  London,  in  lodgings  near  the  Abbey  of  West- 
minster. 

6th  April,  1662.  Being  of  the  Vestry,  in  the  afternoon 
we  ordered  that  the  communion-table  should  be  set  (as 
usual)  altar- wise,  with  a  decent  rail  in  front,  as  before 
the  Rebellion. 

17th  April,  1662.  The  young  Marquis  of  Argyle,  whose 
turbulent  father  was  executed  in  Scotland,  came  to  see 
my  garden.     He  seemed  a  man  of  parts. 

7th  May,  1662.  I  waited  on  Prince  Rupert  to  our 
Assembly  where  were  tried  several  experiments  in  Mr. 
Boyle's  vacuum.  A  man  thrusting  in  his  arm,  upon  ex- 
haustion of  the  air,  had  his  flesh  immediately  swelled  so 
as  the  blood  was  near  bursting  the  veins:  he  drawing  it 
out,  we  found  it  all  speckled. 

14th  May,  1662.  To  London,  being  chosen  one  of  the 
Commissioners  for  reforming  the  buildings,  ways,  streets, 
and  incumbrances,  and  regulating  the  hackney  coaches  in 
the  city  of  London,  taking  my  oath  before  my  Lord 
Chancellor,  and  then  went  to  his  Majesty's  Surveyor's 
office,  in  Scotland  Yard,  about  naming  and  establishing 
officers,  adjourning  till  the  i6th,  when  I  went  to  view 
how  St.  Martin's  Lane  might  be  made  more  passable 
into  the  Strand.  There  were  divers  gentlemen  of  quality 
in  this  commission. 

25th  May,   1662.     I  went   this   evening   to    London,    in 


358  DIARY  OF  hampton  court 

order  to  our  journey  to  Hampton  Court,  to  see  the  new 
Queen;  who,  having  landed  at  Portsmouth,  had  been 
married  to  the  King  a  week  before  by  the  Bishop  of 
London. 

30th  May,  1662.  The  Queen  arrived  with  a  train  of 
Portuguese  ladies  in  their  monstrous  fardingales,  or 
guard-infantes,  their  complexions  olivader  *  and  sufficiently 
unagreeable.  Her  Majesty  in  the  same  habit,  her  fore- 
top  long  and  turned  aside  very  strangely.  She  was  yet 
of  the  handsomest  countenance  of  all  the  rest,  and, 
though  low  of  stature,  prettily  shaped,  languishing  and 
excellent  eyes,  her  teeth  wronging  her  mouth  by  sticking 
a  little  too  far  out;  for  the  rest,  lovely  enough. 

31st  May,  1662.  I  saw  the  Queen  at  dinner;  the  Judges 
came  to  compliment  her  arrival,  and,  after  them,  the 
Duke  of  Ormond  brought  me  to  kiss  her  hand. 

2d  June,  1662.  The  Lord  Mayor  and  Aldermen  made 
their  addresses  to  the  Queen,  presenting  her  ;j^i,ooo  in 
gold.  Now  saiw  I  her  Portuguese  ladies,  and  the  Guarda- 
damas,  or  mother  of  her  maids,  f  and  the  old  knight,  a 
lock  of  whose  hair  quite  covered  the  rest  of  his  bald 
pate,  bound  on  by  a  thread,  very  oddly.  I  saw  the  rich 
gondola  sent  to  his  Majesty  from  the  State  of  Venice; 
but  it  was  not  comparable  for  swiftness  to  our  common 
wherries,  though  managed  by  Venetians. 

4th  June,  1662,  Went  to  visit  the  Earl  of  Bristol,  at 
Wimbledon. 

8th  June,  1662.  I  saw  her  Majesty  at  supper  privately 
in  her  bedchamber. 

9th  June,  1662.  I  heard  the  Queen's  Portugal  music, 
consisting  of  pipes,  harps,  and  very  ill  voices. 

Hampton  Court  is  as  noble  and  uniform  a  pile,  and  as 
capacious  as  any  Gothic  architecture  can  have  made  it. 
There  is  an  incomparable  furniture  in  it,  especially  hang- 
ings designed  by  Raphael,  very  rich  with  gold;  also 
many  rare  pictures,  especially  the  Caesarean  Triumphs  of 

*  Of  a  dark  olive  complexion.  It  has  been  noticed  in  other  accounts 
that  Katharine  of  Braganza's  Portuguese  Ladies  of  Honor,  who  came 
over  with  her,  were  uncommonly  ill-favored,  and  disagreeable  in  their 
appearance.  See  Faithome's  curious  print  of  the  Queen  in  the  costume 
here  described. 

f  The  Maids  of  Honor  had  a  mother  at  least  as  early  as  the  reign  of 
Elizabeth.  The  office  is  supposed  to  have  been  abolished  about  the 
period  of  the  Revolution  of  1688. 


i662  JOHN  EVELYN  359 

Andrea  Manteg^a,  formerly  the  Duke  of  Mantua's;  of 
the  tapestries.  I  believe  the  world  can  show  nothing 
nobler  of  the  kind  than  the  stories  of  Abraham  and 
Tobit  The  gallery  of  horns  is  very  particular  for  the 
vast  beams  of  stags,  elks,  antelopes,  etc.  The  Queen's 
bed  was  an  embroidery  of  silver  on  crimson  velvet,  and 
cost  ^8,000,  being  a  present  made  by  the  States  of  Hol- 
land when  his  Majesty  returned,  and  had  formerly  been 
given  by  them  to  our  King's  sister,  the  Princess  of 
Orange,  and,  being  bought  of  her  again,  was  now  pre- 
sented to  the  King.  The  great  looking-glass  and  toilet, 
of  beaten  and  massive  gold,  was  given  by  the  Queen- 
Mother,  The  Queen  brought  over  with  her  from  Portugal 
such  Indian  cabinets  as  had  never  before  been  seen  here. 
The  great  hall  is  a  most  magnificent  room.  The  chapel 
roof  excellently  fretted  and  gilt.  I  was  also  curious  to 
visit  the  wardrobe  and  tents,  and  other  furniture  of 
state.  The  park,  formerly  a  flat  and  naked  piece  of 
ground,  now  planted  with  sweet  rows  of  lime  trees ;  and 
the  canal  for  water  now  near  perfected;  also  the  air-park. 
In  the  garden  is  a  rich  and  noble  fountain,  with  Sirens, 
statues,  etc. ,  cast  in  copper,  by  Fanelli ;  but  no  plenty  of 
water.  The  cradle-work  of  horn  beam  in  the  garden  is, 
for  the  perplexed  twining  of  the  trees,  very  observable. 
There  is  a  parterre  which  they  call  Paradise,  in  which  is 
a  pretty  banqueting-house  set  over  a  cave,  or  cellar. 
All  these  gardens  might  be  exceedingly  improved,  as 
being  too  narrow  for  such  a  palace. 

loth  June,  1662.  I  returned  to  London,  and  presented 
my  **  History  of  Chalcography"  ( dedicated  to  Mr.  Boyle  ) 
to  our  Society.* 

19  June,  1662.  I  went  to  Albury,  to  visit  Mr.  Henry 
Howard,  soon  after  he  had  procured  the  Dukedom  to  be 
restored.  This  gentleman  had  now  compounded  a  debt 
of  ;^2oo,ooo,  contracted  by  his  grandfather.  I  was  much 
obliged  to  that  great  \artuoso,  and  to  this  young  gentle- 
man, with  whom  I  stayed  a  fortnight. 

2d  July,  1662.  We  hunted  and  killed  a  buck  in  the 
park,  Mr.  Howard  in\dting  most  of  the  gentlemen  of  the 
country  near  him. 

3d  July,  1662.  My  wife  met  me  at  Woodcot,  whither 
Mr.  Howard  accompanied  me  to  see  my  son   John,  who 

*  See  Evelj-n's  «  Miscellaneous  Writings,* 


36o  DIARY  OF  London 

had  been  much  brought  up  among  Mr.  Howard's  children 
at  Arundel  House,  till,  for  fear  of  their  perverting  him 
in  the  Catholic  religion,  I  was  forced  to  take  him  home. 

8th  July,  1662.  To  London,  to  take  leave  of  the  Duke 
and  Duchess  of  Ormond,  going  then  into  Ireland  with  an 
extraordinary  retinue, 

13th  July,  1662.  Spent  some  time  with  the  Lord  Chan- 
cellor, where  I  had  discourse  with  my  Lord  Willoughby, 
Governor  of  Barbadoes,  concerning  divers  particulars  of 
that  colony. 

28th  July,  1662.  His  Majesty  going  to  sea  to  meet  the 
Queen-Mother,  now  coming  again  for  England,  met  with 
such  ill  weather  as  greatly  endangered  him.  I  went  to 
Greenwich,  to  wait  on  the  Queen,  now  landed. 

30th  July,  1662.  To  London,  where  was  a  meeting 
about  Charitable  Uses,  and  particularly  to  inquire  how 
the  city  had  disposed  of  the  revenues  of  Gresham  College, 
and  why  the  salaries  of  the  professors  there  were  no 
better  improved.  I  was  on  this  commission,  with  divers 
Bishops  and  Lords  of  the  Council;  but  little  was  the 
progress  we  could  make. 

31st  July,  1662.  I  sat  with  the  Commissioners  about 
reforming  buildings  and  streets  of  London,  and  we  or- 
dered the  paving  of  the  way  from  St  James's  North,  which 
was  a  quagmire,  and  also  of  the  Haymarket  about  Piqu- 
dillo  [Piccadilly],  and  agreed  upon  instructions  to  be 
printed  and  published  for  the  better  keeping  the  streets 
clean. 

ist  August,  1662.  Mr.  H.  Howard,  his  brothers  Charles, 
Edward,  Bernard,  Philip,*  now  the  Queen's  Almoner  (all 
brothers  of  the  Duke  of  Norfolk,  still  in  Italy),  came 
with  a  great  train,  and  dined  with  me ;  Mr.  H.  Howard 
leaving  with  me  his  eldest  and  youngest  sons,  Henry  and 
Thomas,  for  three  or  four  days,  my  son,  John,  having 
been  sometime  bred  up  in  their  father's  house. 

4th  August,  1662.  Came  to  see  me  the  old  Countess 
of  Devonshire,  with  that  excellent  and  worthy  person, 
my  Lord  her  son,  from  Roehampton. 

5th  August,  1662.  To  London,  and  next  day  to  Hamp- 
ton Court,  about  my  purchase,  and  took  leave  of  Sir  R. 
Fanshawe,  now  going  Ambassador  to  Portugal. 

13th  August,   1662.      Our    Charter    being    now    passed 

♦Since  Cardinal  at  Rome.     « Evelyn's  Note.» 


1^2  JOHN  EVELYN  361 

under  the  broad  Seal,  constituting  us  a  corporation  un- 
der the  name  of  the  Royal  Society  for  the  improvement 
of  natural  knowledge  by  experiment,  was  this  day  read 
and  was  all  that  was  done  this  afternoon,  being  very 
large. 

14th  Augfust,  1662.  I  sat  on  the  commission  for  Char- 
itable Uses,  the  Lord  Mayor  and  others  of  the  Mercers' 
Company  being  summoned,  to  answer  some  complaints 
of  the  Professors,  grounded  on  a  clause  in  the  will  of 
Sir  Thomas  Gresham,  the  founder. 

This  afternoon,  the  Queen-Mother,  with  the  Earl  of 
St.  Alban's  and  many  great  ladies  and  persons,  was 
pleased  to  honor  my  poor  villa  with  her  presence,  and 
to  accept  of  a  collation.  She  was  exceedingly  pleased, 
and  staid  till  very  late  in  the  evening. 

15th  August,  1662.  Came  my  Lord  Chancellor  (the 
Earl  of  Clarendon)  and  his  lady,  his  purse  and  mace 
borne  before  him,  to  visit  me.  They  were  likewise  col- 
lationed  with  us,  and  were  very  merry.  They  had  all 
been  our  old  acquaintance  in  exile,  and  indeed  this  great 
person  had  ever  been  my  friend.  His  son.  Lord  Com- 
bury,  was  here,  too. 

17th  August,  1662.  Being  the  Sunday  when  the  Com- 
mon Prayer  Book,  reformed  and  ordered  to  be  used  for 
tne  future,  was  appointed  to  be  read,  and  the  solemn 
League  and  Covenant  to  be  abjured  by  all  the  incum- 
bents of  England  under  penalty  of  losing  their  livings; 
our  vicar  read  it  this  morning. 

20th  August,  1662.  There  were  strong  guards  in  the 
city  this  day,  apprehending  some  tumults,  many  of  the 
Presbyterian  ministers  not  conforming.  I  dined  with 
the  Vice-Chamberlain,  and  then  went  to  see  the  Queen- 
Mother,  who  was  pleased  to  give  me  many  thanks  for 
the  entertainment  she  received  at  my  house,  when  she 
recounted  to  me  many  observable  stories  of  the  sagacity 
of  some  dogs  she   formerly  had. 

2 1  St  Augnst,  1662.  I  was  admitted  and  then  sworn 
one  of  the  Council  of  the  Royal  Society,  being  nomi- 
nated in  his  Majesty's  original  g^ant  to  be  of  this 
Council  for  the  regulation  of  the  Society,  and  mak- 
ing laws  and  statutes  conducible  to  its  establishment 
and  progress,  for  which  we  now  set  apart  every  Wednes- 
day morning  till  they   were  all   finished.     Lord  Viscount 


362  DIARY  OF  London 

Brouncker  (that  excellent  mathematician)  was  also  by  his 
Majesty,  our  founder,  nominated  our  first  President. 
The  King  gave  us  the  arms  of  England  to  be  borne  in 
a  canton  in  our  arms,  and  sent  us  a  mace  of  silver  gilt, 
of  the  same  fashion  and  size  as  those  carried  before  his 
Majesty,  to  be  borne  before  our  president  on  meeting 
days.  It  was  brought  by  Sir  Gilbert  Talbot,  master  of 
his  Majesty's  jewel  house. 

22d  August,  1662.  I  dined  with  my  Lord  Brouncker 
and  Sir  Robert  Murray,  and  then  went  to  consult  about 
a  newly  modeled  ship  at  Lambeth,  the  intention  being  to 
reduce  that  art  to  as  certain  a  method  as  any  other  part 
of  architecture. 

23d  August,  1662.  I  was  spectator  of  the  most  magnifi- 
cent triumph  that  ever  floated  on  the  Thames,  consider- 
ing the  innumerable  boats  and  vessels,  dressed  and 
adorned  with  all  imaginable  pomp,  but,  above  all,  the 
thrones,  arches,  pageants,  and  other  representations, 
stately  barges  of  the  Lord  Mayor  and  companies,  with 
various  inventions,  music,  and  peals  of  ordnance  both 
from  the  vessels  and  the  shore,  going  to  meet  and  con- 
duct the  new  Queen  from  Hampton  Court  to  Whitehall, 
at  the  first  time  of  her  coming  to  town.  In  my  opinion, 
it  far  exceeded  all  the  Venetian  Bucentoras,  etc.,  on  the 
Ascension,  when  they  go  to  espouse  the  Adriatic.  His 
Majesty  and  the  Queen  came  in  an  antique-shaped  open 
vessel,  covered  with  a  state,  or  canopy,  of  cloth  of  gold, 
made  in  form  of  a  cupola,  supported  with  high  Corinthian 
pillars,  wreathed  with  flowers,  festoons  and  garlands.  I 
was  in  our  newly  built  vessel,  sailing  among  them. 

29th  August,  1662.  The  Council  and  Fellows  of  the 
the  Royal  Society  went  in  a  body  to  Whitehall,  to 
acknowledge  his  Majesty's  royal  grace  in  granting  our 
Charter,  and  vouchsafing  to  be  himself  our  founder; 
when  the  President  made  an  eloquent  speech,  to  which 
his  Majesty  gave  a  gracious  reply  and  we  all  kissed  his 
hand.  Next  day  we  went  in  like  manner  with  our 
address  to  my  Lord  Chancellor,  who  had  much  promoted 
our  patent:  he  received  us  with  extraordinary  favor.  In 
the  evening  I  went  to  the  Queen-Mother's  Court,  and 
had  much  discourse  with  her. 

ist  September,  1662.  Being  invited  by  Lord  Berkeley, 
I  went  to  Durdans,  where  dined  his  Majesty,  the  Queen, 


i662  JOHN  EVELYN  363 

Duke,  Duchess,  Prince  Rupert,  Prince  Edward,  and 
abundance  of  noblemen.  I  went,  after  dinner,  to  visit 
my  brother  of  Woodcot,  my  sister  having  been  delivered 
of  a  son  a  little  before,  but  who  had  now  been  two  days  dead. 

4th  September,  1662.  Commission  for  Charitable  Uses, 
my  Lord  Mayor  and  Aldermen  being  again  summoned, 
and  the  improvements  of  Sir  Thomas  Gresham's  estate 
examined.  There  were  present  the  Bishop  of  London, 
the  Lord  Chief  Justice,  and  the  King's  attorney. 

6th  September,  1662.  Dined  with  me  Sir  Edward 
Walker,  Garter  King-at-Arms,  Mr.  Slingsby,  master  of 
the  Mint,  and  several  others. 

17th  September,  1662.  We  now  resolved  that  the  Arms 
of  the  Society  should  be  a  field  argent,  with  a  canton 
of  the  arms  of  England ;  the  supporters  two  talbots  argent ; 
crest,  an  eagle  Or  holding  a  shield  with  the  like  arms 
of  England,  viz,  three  lions.  The  words  *^  Nullius  in 
verbd.^^  It  was  presented  to  his  Majesty  for  his  appro- 
bation, and  orders  given  to  Garter  King-at-Arms  to  pass 
the  diploma  of  their  office  for  it. 

20th  September,  1662.  I  presented  a  petition  to  his 
Majesty  about  my  own  concerns,  and  afterward  accom- 
panied him  to  Monsieur  Febure  his  chemist  (and  who 
had  formerly  been  my  master  in  Paris),  to  see  his  ac- 
curate preparation  for  the  composing  Sir  Walter  Raleigh's 
rare  cordial:  he  made  a  learned  discourse  before  his 
Majesty  in  French  on  each  ingredienL 

27th  September,  1662.  Came  to  visit  me  Sir  George 
Saville,  grandson  to  the  learned  Sir  Henry  Saville, 
who  published  St.  Chr5'-sostom.  Sir  George  was  a 
witty  gentleman,  if    not  a  little  too    prompt  and  daring. 

3d  October,  1662.  I  was  in\'ited  to  the  College  of 
Physicians,  where  Dr.  Meret,  a  learned  man  and  library- 
keeper,  showed  me  the  library,  theater  for  anatomy,  and 
divers  natural  curiosities;  the  statue  and  epigram  under 
it  of  that  renowned  physician.  Dr.  Harvey,  discoverer 
of  the  circulation  of  the  blood.  There  I  saw  Dr.  Gilbert, 
Sir  William  Paddy's  and  other  pictures  of  men  famous 
in  their  faculty. 

Visited  Mr.  Wright,  a  Scotchman,  who  had  lived  long 
at  Rome,  and  was  esteemed  a  good  painter.  The 
pictures  of  the  Judges  at  Guildhall  are  of  his  hand,  and 
so   are   some   pieces  in   Whitehall,   as     the   roof     in    his 


364  DIARY    OP  LONDON 

Majesty's  old  bedchamber,  being  Astraea,  the  St,  Catherine, 
and  a  chimney-piece  in  the  Queen's  privy  chamber ;  but 
his  best,  in  my  opinion,  is  Lacy,  the  famous  Roscius  or 
comedian,  whom  he  has  painted  in  three  dresses,  as  a 
gallant,  a  Presbyterian  minister,  and  a  Scotch  highlander 
in  his  plaid.  It  is  in  his  Majesty's  dining  room  at 
Windsor.  He  had  at  his  house  an  excellent  collection, 
especially  that  small  piece  of  Correggio,  Scotus  of  de 
la  Marca,  a  design  of  Paulo;  and,  above  all,  those  ruins 
of  Polydore,  with  some  good  agates  and  medals,  espe- 
cially a  Scipio,  and  a  Caesar's  head  of  gold. 

15th  October,  1662.  I  this  day  delivered  my  "  Discourse 
concerning  Forest  Trees*  to  the  Society,  upon  occasion 
of  certain  queries  sent  to  us  by  the  Commissioners  of 
his  Majesty's  Navy,  being  the  first  book  that  was  printed 
by  order  of  the  Society,  and  by  their  printer,  since  it 
was  a  corporation. 

i6th  October,  1662.  I  saw  ^'•Volpone^'*  acted  at  Court 
before  their  Majesties. 

2ist  October,  1662.  To  the  Queen-Mother's  Court, 
where  her  Majesty  related  to  us  divers  passages  of  her 
escapes  during  the  Rebellion  and  wars  in  England. 

28th  October,  1662.  To  Court  in  the  evening  where 
the  Queen-Mother,  the  Queen-Consort,  and  his  Majesty 
being  advertised  of  some  disturbance,  forbore  to  go  to  the 
Lord  Mayor's  show  and  feast  appointed  next  day,  the  new 
Queen  not  having  yet  seen  that  triumph. 

29th  October,  1662.  Was  my  Lord  Mayor's  show,  with 
a  number  of  sumptuous  pageants,  speeches,  and  verses.  I 
was  standing  in  a  house  in  Cheapside  against  the  place 
prepared  for  their  Majesties.  The  Prince  and  heir  of 
Denmark  was  there,  but  not  our  King.  There  were  also 
the  maids  of  honor.  I  went  to  Court  this  evening,  and 
had  much  discourse  with  Dr.  Basiers,  one  of  his  Majesty's 
chaplains,  the  great  traveler,  who  showed  me  the  syn- 
graphs  and  original  subscriptions  of  divers  eastern  patri- 
archs and  Asian  churches  to  our  confession. 

4th  November,  1662.  I  was  invited  to  the  wedding  of 
the  daughter  of  Sir  George  Carteret  (The  Treasurer  of 
the  Navy  and  King's  Vice-Chamberlain),  married  to  Sir 
Nicholas  Slaning,  Knight  of  the  Bath,  by  the  Bishop  of 
London,  in  the  Savoy  chapel;  after  which  was  an  ex- 
traordinary feast. 


i662  JOHN  EVELYN  365 

5tli  November,  1662.  The  Council  of  the  Royal  So- 
ciety met  to  amend  the  Statutes,  and  dined  together; 
afterward  meeting-  at  Gresham  College,  where  was  a  dis- 
course suggested  by  me,  concerning  planting  his  Majesty's 
Forest  of  Dean  with  oak,  now  so  much  exhausted  of  the 
choicest  ship  timber  in  the  world. 

20th  November,  1662.  Dined  with  the  Comptroller,  Sir 
Hugh  Pollard;  afterward  saw  *The  Young  Admiral* 
acted  before  the  King. 

2 1  St  November,  1662.  Spent  the  evening  at  Court, 
Sir  Kenelm  Digby  giving  me  great  thanks  for  my 
«Sylva.» 

27th  November,  1662.  Went  to  London  to  see  the 
entrance  of  the  Russian  Ambassador,  whom  his  Majesty 
ordered  to  be  received  with  much  state,  the  Emperor  not 
only  having  been  kind  to  his  Majesty  in  his  distress, 
but  banishing  all  commerce  with  our  nation  during  the 
Rebellion. 

First,  the  city  companies  and  trained  bands  were  all 
in  their  stations:  his  Majesty's  army  and  guards  in 
great  order.  His  Excellency  came  in  a  very  rich  coach, 
with  some  of  his  chief  attendants;  many  of  the  rest  on 
horseback,  clad  in  their  vests,  after  the  Eastern  manner, 
rich  furs,  caps,  and  carrying  the  presents,  some  carry- 
ing hawks,  furs,  teeth,  bows,  etc.  It  was  a  very  magfnifi- 
cent  show. 

I  dined  with  the  Master  of  the  Mint,  where  was  old 
Sir  Ralph  Freeman ;  *  passing  my  evening  at  the  Queen- 
Mother's  Court;  at  night,  saw  acted  "The  Committee,* 
a  ridiculous  play  of  Sir  R.  Howard,  where  the  mimic, 
Lacy,  acted  the  Irish  footman  to  admiration. 

30th  October,  1662.  St.  Andrew's  day.  Invited  by  the 
Dean  of  Westminster  to  his  consecration  dinner  and  cere- 
mony, on  his  being  made  Bishop  of  Worcester  Dr. 
Bolton  preached  in  the  Abbey  Church ;  then  followed  the 
consecration  by  the  Bishops  of  London,  Chichester,  Win- 
chester, Salisbury,  etc.  After  this,  was  one  of  the  most 
plentiful  and  magnificent  dinners  that  in  my  life  I  ever 
saw ;  it  cost  near  ;i{^6oo  as  I  was  informed.  Here  were  the 
judges,  nobility,  clergy,  and  gentlemen  innumerable,  this 
Bishop  being  universally  beloved  for  his  sweet  and  gentle 
disposition.     He  was  author  of  those  Characters  which  go 

*Of  Betchwortli,  in  Surrey. 


366  DIARY  OF  London 

under  the  name  of  Blount.  He  translated  his  late  Maj- 
esty's **  Icon  '^  into  Latin,  was  Clerk  of  his  Closet,  Chaplain, 
Dean  of  Westminster,  and  yet  a  most  humble,  meek,  and 
cheerful  man,  an  excellent  scholar,  and  rare  preacher.  I 
had  the  honor  to  be  loved  by  him.  He  married  me  at 
Paris,  during  his  Majesty's  and  the  Church's  exile.  When 
I  took  leave  of  him,  he  brought  me  to  the  cloisters  in 
his  episcopal  habit.  I  then  went  to  prayers  at  Whitehall, 
where  I  passed  that  evening. 

ist  December,  1662.  Having  seen  the  strange  and 
wonderful  dexterity  of  the  sliders  on  the  new  canal  in  St 
James's  Park,  performed  before  their  Majesties  by  divers 
gentlemen  and  others  with  skates,  after  the  manner  of 
the  Hollanders,  with  what  swiftness  they  pass,  how  sud- 
denly they  stop  in  full  career  upon  the  ice ;  I  went  home 
by  water,  but  not  without  exceeding  difficulty,  the  Thames 
being  frozen,  great  flakes  of  ice    encompassing  our  boat. 

17th  December,  1662,  I  saw  acted  before  the  King 
**The  Law  against  Lovers.  ^^* 

2ist  December,  1662.  One  of  his  Majesty's  chaplains 
preached;  after  which,  instead  of  the  ancient,  grave,  and 
solemn  wind  music  accompanying  the  organ,  was  intro- 
duced a  concert  of  twenty-four  violins  between  every 
pause,  after  the  French  fantastical  light  way,  better  suit- 
ing a  tavern,  or  playhouse,  than  a  church.  This  was  the 
first  time  of  change,  and  now  we  no  more  heard  the  cor- 
net which  gave  life  to  the  organ;  that  instrument  quite 
left  off  in  which  the  English  were  so  skillful.  I  dined  at 
Mr.  Povey's,  where  I  talked  with  Cromer,  a  great  musi- 
cian. 

23d  December,  1662.  I  went  with  Sir  George  Tuke, 
to  hear  the  comedians  con  and  repeat  his  new  comedy, 
**  The  Adventures  of  Five  Hours,  *^  a  play  whose  plot  was 
taken  out  of  the  famous  Spanish  poet,  Calderon. 

27th  December,  1662.  I  visited  Sir  Theophilus  Bid- 
dulph. 

29th  December,  1662.  Saw  the  audience  of  the  Mus- 
covy Ambassador,  which  was  with  extraordinary  state, 
his  retinue  being  numerous,  all  clad  in  vests  of  several 
colors,  with  buskins,  after  the  Eastern  manner !  their  caps 
of  fur;  tunics,  richly  embroidered  with  gold  and  pearls, 

*  By  Sir  William  Davenant,  a  hotch-potch  out  of  «  Measure  for  Meas- 
ure »  and  "Much  Ado  about  Nothing. » 


1662-63  JOHN    EVELYN  367 

made  a  glorious  show.  The  King  being  seated  under  a 
canopy  in  the  Banqueting  House,  the  Secretary  of  the 
Embassy  went  before  the  Ambassador  in  a  grave  march, 
holding  up  his  master's  letters  of  credence  in  a  crimson 
taflEeta  scarf  before  his  forehead.  The  Ambassador  then 
delivered  it  with  a  profound  reverence  to  the  King,  who 
gave  it  to  our  Secretary  of  State :  it  was  written  in  a  long 
and  lofty  style.  Then  came  in  the  presents,  borne  by 
165  of  his  retinue,  consisting  of  mantles  and  other  large 
pieces  lined  with  sable,  black  fox,  and  ermine;  Persian 
carpets,  the  ground  cloth  of  gold  and  velvet;  hawks,  such 
as  they  said  never  came  the  like;  horses  said  to  be  Per- 
sian; bows  and  arrows,  etc.  These  borne  by  so  long  a 
train  rendered  it  very  extraordinary.  Wind  music  played 
all  the  while  in  the  galleries  above.  This  finished,  the 
Ambassador  was  conveyed  by  the  master  of  the  ceremonies 
to  York  House,  where  he  was  treated  with  a  banquet, 
which  cost  ;^2oo,  as  I  was  assured. 

7th  January,  1663.  At  night  I  saw  the  ball,  in  which 
his  Majesty  danced  with  several  great  ladies. 

8th  January,  1663.  I  went  to  see  my  kinsman,  Sir 
George  Tuke's,  comedy  acted  at  the  Duke's  theater, 
which  took  so  universally,  that  it  was  acted  for  some 
weeks  every  day,  and  it  was  believed  it  would  be  worth 
to  the  comedians  ;^4oo  or  ^^500.  The  plot  was  incom- 
parable; but  the  language  stiff  and  formal. 

loth  January,  1663.  I  saw  a  ball  again  at  Court, 
danced  by  the  King,  the  Duke,  and  ladies,  in  great 
pomp. 

2ist  January,  1663.  Dined  at  Mr.  Treasurer's,  of  the 
Household,  Sir  Charles  Berkeley's,  where  were  the  Earl 
of  Oxford,  Lord  Bellassis,  Lord  Gerard,  Sir  Andrew 
Scrope,  Sir  William  Coventry,  Dr.  Eraser,  Mr.  Windham, 
and  others. 

5th  February,  1663.  I  saw  «The  Wild  Gallant, »  a 
comedy;*  and  was  at  the  great  ball  at  Court,  where  his 
Majesty,  the  Queen,  etc.,  danced. 

6th  February,  1663.  Dined  at  my  Lord  Mayor's,  Sir 
John  Robinson,   Lieutenant  of  the  Tower. 

15th  February,  1663.  This  night  some  villains  broke 
into  my  house  and  study  below,  and   robbed   me   to   the 

*  By  Dryden.  It  was  unsuccessful  on  the  first  representation,  but 
was  subsequently  altered  to  the  form  in  which  it  now  appears. 


368  DIARY  OF  London 

value  of  j£6o   in   plate,    money   and   goods:  —  this   being 
the  third  time  I  have  been  thus  plundered. 

26th  March,  1663.  I  sat  at  the  Commission  of  Sewers, 
where  was  a  great  case  pleaded  by  his  Majesty's  coun- 
sel; he  having  built  a  wall  over  a  water  course,  denied 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  Court.  The  verdict  went  for  the 
plaintiff.* 

30th  April,  1663.  Came  his  Majesty  to  honor  my  poor 
villa  with  his  presence,  viewing  the  gardens,  and  even 
every  room  of  the  house,  and  was  pleased  to  take  a  small 
refreshment.  There  were  with  him  the  Duke  of  Rich- 
mond, Earl  of  St.  Alban's,  Lord  Lauderdale,  and  several 
I)ersons  of  quality. 

14th  May,  1663.  Dined  with  my  Lord  Mordaunt,  and 
thence  went  to  Barnes,  to  visit  my  excellent  and  ingen- 
ious friend,  Abraham  Cowley. 

17th  May,  1663.  I  saluted  the  old  Bishop  of  Durham, 
Dr.  Cosin,  to  whom  I  had  been  kind,  and  assisted  in  his 
exile;  but  which   he   little   remembered  in  his  greatness. 

29th  May,  1663.  Dr.  Creighton  preached  his  extrava- 
gant sermon  at  St.  Margaret's,  before  the  House  of 
Commons. 

30th  May,  1663.  This  morning  was  passed  my  lease  of 
Sayes  Court  from  the  Crown,  for  the  finishing  of  which 
I  had  been  obliged  to  make  such  frequent  journeys  to 
London.  I  returned  this  evening,  having  seen  the  Rus- 
sian Ambassador  take  leave  of  their  Majesties  with  great 
solemnity. 

2d  July,  1663.  I  saw  the  great  Masque  at  Court,  and 
lay  that  night  at  Arundel  House. 

4th  July,  1663.  I  saw  his  "^Majesty's  Guards,  being  of 
horse  and  foot  4,000,  led  by  the  General,  the  Duke  of 
Albemarle,  in  extraordinary  equipage  and  gallantry,  con- 
sisting of  gentlemen  of  quality  and  veteran  soldiers, 
excellently  clad,  mounted,  and  ordered,  drawn  up  in 
battalia  before  their  Majesties  in  Hyde  Park,  where  the 
old  Earl  of  Cleveland  trailed  a  pike,  and  led  the  right- 
hand  file  in  a  foot  company,  commanded  by  the  Lord 
Wentworth,  his  son;  a  worthy  spectacle  and  example, 
being  both  of  them  old  and  valiant  soldiers.  This  was 
to  show  the  French  Ambassador,  Monsieur  Comminges; 
there  being  a  great  assembly  of  coaches,  etc. ,  in  the  park. 

♦That  is   against  the  King. 


i663  JOHN  EVELYN  369 

7th  July,  1663.  Dined  at  the  Comptroller's;  after  din- 
ner we  met  at  the  Commission  about  the  streets,  and  to 
regfulate  hackney  coaches,  also  to  make  up  our  accounts 
to  pass  the  Exchequer. 

i6th  July,  1663.  A  most  extraordinary  wet  and  cold 
season. 

Sir  George  Carteret,  Treasurer  of  the  Navy,  had  now 
married  his  daughter,  Caroline,  to  Sir  Thomas  Scott,  of 
Scott's  Hall,  in  Kent.  This  gentleman  was  thought  to  be 
the  son  of  Prince  Rupert, 

2d  August,  1663.  This  evening  I  accompanied  Mr. 
Treasurer  and  Vice-Chamberlain  Carteret  to  his  lately 
married  son-in-law's.  Sir  Thomas  Scott,  to  Scott's  Hall. 
We  took  barge  as  far  as  Gravesend,  and  thence  by  post 
to  Rochester,  whence  in  coach  and  six  horses  to  Scott's 
Hall ;  a  right  noble  seat,  uniformly  built,  with  a  handsome 
gallery.  It  stands  in  a  park  well  stored,  the  land  fat 
and  good.  We  were  exceedingly  feasted  by  the  young 
knight,  and  in  his  pretty  chapel  heard  an  excellent  ser- 
mon by  his  chaplain.  In  the  afternoon,  preached  the 
learned  Sir  Norton  Knatchbull  (who  has  a  noble  seat 
hard  by,  and  a  plantation  of  stately  fir  trees).  In  the 
churchyard  of  the  parish  church  I  measured  an  over- 
grown yew  tree,  that  was  eighteen  of  my  paces  in  com- 
pass, out  of  some  branches  of  which,  torn  off  by  the 
winds,  were  sawed  divers  goodly  planks. 

loth  August,  1663.  We  returned  by  Sir  Norton's,  whose 
house  is  likewise  in  a  park.  This  gentleman  is  a  worthy 
person,  and  learned  critic,  especially  in  Greek  and  Hebrew. 
Passing  by  Chatham,  we  saw  his  Majesty's  Royal  Navy, 
and  dined  at  Commissioner  Pett's,*  master-builder  there, 
who  showed  me  his  study  and  models,  with  other  curios- 
ities belonging  to  his  art.  He  is  esteemed  for  the  most 
skillful  shipbuilder  in  the  world.  He  hath  a  pretty  gar- 
den and  banqueting  house,  pots,  statues,  cypresses,  re- 
sembling some  villas  about  Rome.      After   a  great  feast 

*  A  monument  to  him  in  Deptford  Church  bears  a  most  pompous  in- 
scription: ^^  ^ui  fuit  patrice  decus,  patrice  suce  magnum  munimentum  j* 
to  the  effect  that  he  had  not  only  restored  our  naval  affairs,  but  he  in- 
vented that  excellent  and  new  ornament  of  the  Navy  which  we  call 
Frigate,  formidable  to  our  enemies,  to  us  most  useful  and  safe:  he  was 
to  be  esteemed,  indeed,  by  this  invention,  the  Noah  of  his  age,  which, 
like  another  Ark,  had  snatched  from  shipwreck  our  rights  and  oiu:  do- 
minion of  the  seas. 
84 


370  DIARY   OF  LONDON 

we  rode  post  to  Gravesend,  and,  sending  the  coach  to 
London,  came  by  barge  home  that  night. 

i8th  August,  1663.  To  London,  to  see  my  Lord  Chan- 
cellor, where  I  had  discourse  with  my  Lord  Archbishop 
of  Canterbury  and  the  Bishop  of  Winchester,  who  enjoined 
me  to  write  to  Dr.  Pierce,  President  of  Magdalen  Col- 
lege, Oxford,  about  a  letter  sent  him  by  Dr.  Goffe,  a 
Romish  Oratorian,  concerning  an  answer  to  Dean  Cressy's 
late  book. 

20th  August,  1663.  I  dined  at  the  Comptroller's  [of 
the  Household]  with  the  Earl  of  Oxford  and  Mr.  Ash- 
burnham;  it  was  said  it  should  be  the  last  of  the  public 
diets,  or  tables,  at  Court,  it  being  determined  to  put 
down  the  old  hospitality,  at  which  was  great  murmuring, 
considering  his  Majesty's  vast  revenue  and  the  plenty  of 
the  nation.  Hence,  I  went  to  sit  in  a  Committee,  to 
consider  about  the  regulation  of  the  Mint  at  the  Tower; 
in  which  some  small  progress  was  made. 

27th  August,  1663.  Dined  at  Sir  Philip  Warwick's, 
Secretary  to  my  Lord  Treasurer,  who  showed  me  the 
accounts  and  other  private  matters  relating  to  the  revenue. 
Thence,  to  the  Commissioners  of  the  Mint,  particularly 
about  coinage,  and  bringing  his  Majesty's  rate  from  fif- 
teen to  ten  shillings  for  every  pound  weight  of  gold. 

31st  August,  1663.  I  was  invited  to  the  translation  of 
Dr.  Sheldon,  Bishop  of  London,  from  that  see  to  Canter- 
bury, the  ceremony  performed  at  Lambeth.  First,  went 
his  Grace's  mace  bearer,  steward,  treasurer,  comptroller, 
all  in  their  gowns,  and  with  white  staves;  next,  the 
bishops  in  their  habits,  eight  in  number;  Dr.  Sweate, 
Dean  of  the  Arches,  Dr.  Exton,  Judge  of  the  Admiralty, 
Sir  William  Merick,  Judge  of  the  Prerogative  Court,  with 
divers  advocates  in  scarlet.  After  divine  service  in  the 
chapel,  performed  with  music  extraordinary,  Dr.  French 
and  Dr.  Stradling  (his  Grace's  chaplains)  said  prayers. 
The  Archbishop  in  a  private  room  looking  into  the  chapel, 
the  bishops,  who  were  commissioners,  went  up  to  a  table 
placed  before  the  altar,  and  sat  round  it  in  chairs.  Then 
Dr.  Chaworth  presented  the  commission  under  the  broad 
seal  to  the  Bishop  of  Winchester,  and  it  was  read  by  Dr. 
Sweate.  After  which,  the  Vicar-General  went  to  the  vestry, 
and  brought  his  Grace  into  the  chapel,  his  other  officers 
marching   before.     He    being   presented  to  the   Commis- 


1663-64  JOHN   EVELYN  371 

sioners,  was  seated  in  a  great  armchair  at  one  end  of 
the  table,  when  the  definitive  sentence  was  read  by  the 
Bishop  of  Winchester,  and  subscribed  by  all  the  bishops, 
and  proclamation  was  three  times  made  at  the  chapel 
door,  which  was  then  set  open  for  any  to  enter,  and  give 
their  exceptions;  if  any  they  had.  This  done,  we  all 
went  to  dinner  in  the  great  hall  to  a  mighty  feast.  There 
were  present  all  the  nobility  in  town,  the  Lord  Mayor  of 
London,  Sheriffs,  Duke  of  Albemarle,  etc.  My  Lord 
Archbishop  did  in  particular  most  civilly  welcome  me. 
So  going  to  visit  my  Lady  Needham,  who  lived  at  Lam- 
beth, I  went  over  to  London. 

loth  September,  1663.  I  dined  with  Mr.  Treasurer  of 
the  Navy,  where,  sitting  by  Mr.  Secretary  Morice,  we  had 
much  discourse  about  books  and  authors,  he  being  a 
learned  man,  and  had  a  good  collection. 

24th  October,  1663.  Mr.  Edward  Phillips  came  to  be 
my  son's  preceptor:  this  gentleman  was  nephew  to  Milton, 
who  wrote  against  Salmasius's  ^^Defensio^^;  but  was  not 
at  all  infected  with  his  principles,  though  brought  up  by  him. 

5th  November,  1663.  Dr.  South,  my  Lord  Chancellor's 
chaplain,  preached  at  Westminster  Abbey  an  excellent  dis- 
course concerning  obedience  to  magistrates,  against  the 
pontificians  and  sectaries.  I  afterward  dined  at  Sir  Philip 
Warwick's,  where  was  much  company. 

6th  November,  1663.  To  Court,  to  get  Sir  John  Evelyn, 
of  Godstone,  off  from  being  Sheriff  of  Surrey. 

30th  November,  1663.  Was  the  first  anniversary  of  our 
Society  for  the  choice  of  new  officers,  according  to  the 
tenor  of  our  patent  and  institution.  It  being  St.  An- 
drew's day,  who  was  our  patron,  each  fellow  wore  a  St. 
Andrew's  cross  of  ribbon  on  the  crown  of  his  hat.  After 
the  election  we  dined  together,  his  Majesty  sending  us 
venison. 

1 6th  December,  1663.  To  our  Society,  where  Mr.  P. 
Balle,  our  treasurer  at  the  late  election,  presented  the 
Society  with  an  iron  chest,  having  three  locks,  and  in  it 
j£ioo  as  a  gift. 

1 8th  December,  1663.  Dined  with  the  gentlemen  of 
his  Majesty's  bedchamber  at  Whitehall. 

2d  January,  1663-64.  To  Bam  Elms,  to  see  Abraham 
Cowley  after  his  sickness;  and  returned  that  evening  to 
London, 


372  DIARY  OF  London 

4th  February,  1664.  Dined  at  Sir  Philip  Warwick's; 
thence,  to  Court,  where  I  had  discourse  with  the  King 
about  an  invention  of  glass-grenades,  and  several  other 
subjects. 

5th  February,  1664.  I  saw  "The  Indian  Queen"  acted, 
a  tragedy  well  written,*  so  beautiful  with  rich  scenes  as 
the  like  had  never  been  seen  here,  or  haply  (except 
rarely)  elsewhere  on  a  mercenary  theater. 

i6th  February,  1664.  I  presented  my  "Sylva*  to  the 
Society;  and  next  day  to  his  Majesty,  to  whom  it  was 
dedicated;  also  to  the  Lord  Treasurer  and  the  Lord 
Chancellor. 

24th  February,  1664.  My  Lord  George  Berkeley,  of 
Durdans,  and  Sir  Samuel  Tuke  came  to  visit  me.  We 
went  on  board  Sir  William  Petty's  double-bottomed  ves- 
sel, and  so  to  London. 

26th  February,  1664.  Dined  with  my  Lord  Chancellor; 
and  thence  to  Court,  where  I  had  great  thanks  for  my 
**  Sylva,  *  and  long  discourse  with  the  King  of  divers  par- 
ticulars. 

2d  March,  1664.  Went  to  London  to  distribute  some 
of  my  books  among  friends. 

4th  March,  1664.  Came  to  dine  with  me  the  Earl  of 
Lauderdale,  his  Majesty's  great  favorite,  and  Secretary  of 
Scotland ;  the  Earl  of  Teviot ;  my  Lord  Viscount  Brouncker, 
President  of  the  Royal  Society;  Dr.  Wilkins,  Dean  of 
Ripon;  Sir  Robert  Murray,  and  Mr.  Hooke,  Curator  to 
the  Society. 

This  spring  I  planted  the  Home  field  and  West  field 
about  Sayes  Court  with  elms,  being  the  same  year  that 
the  elms  were  planted  by  his  Majesty  in  Greenwich 
Park. 

9th  March,  1664.  I  went  to  the  Tower,  to  sit  in  com- 
mission about  regulating  the  Mint;  and  now  it  was  that 
the  fine  new-milled  coin,  both  of  white  money  and  gfuineas, 
was  established. 

26th  March,  1664.  It  pleased  God  to  take  away  my 
son,  Richard,  now  a  month  old,  yet  without  any  sickness 
of  danger  perceivably,  being  to  all  appearance  a  most 
likely  child;  we  suspected  much  the  nurse  had  overlain 
him ;  to  our  extreme  sorrow,  being  now  again  reduced  to 
one:  but  God's  will  be  done. 

*By  Sir  Robert  Howard  and  Dryden, 


1 664  JOHN  EVELYN  373 

29th  March,  1664.  After  evening  prayers,  was  my 
child  buried  near  the  rest  of  his  brothers  —  my  very  dear 
children. 

27th  April,  1664.  Saw  a  facetious  comedy,  called  *Love 
in  a  Tub  * ;  and  supped  at  Mr,   Secretary  Bennett's. 

3d  May,  1664.  Came  the  Earl  of  Kent,  my  kinsman, 
and  his  Lady,  to  visit  us. 

5th  May,  1664.  Went  with  some  company  a  journey 
of  pleasure  on  the  water,  in  a  barge,  with  music,  and  at 
Mortlake  had  a  great  banquet,  returning  late.  The  occa- 
sion was.  Sir  Robert  Carr  now  courting  Mrs.  Bennett, 
sister  to  the  Secretary  of   State. 

6th  May,  1664.  Went  to  see  Mr.  Wright  the  painter's 
collection  of  rare  shells,  etc. 

8th  June,  1664.  To  our  Society,  to  which  his  Majesty 
had  sent  that  wonderful  horn  of  the  fish  which  struck  a 
dangerous  hole  in  the  keel  of  a  ship  in  the  India  sea, 
which,  being  broken  off  with  the  violence  of  the  fish, 
and  left  in  the  timber,  preserved  it  from  foundering. 

9th  June,  1664.  Sir  Samuel  Tuke*  being  this  morning 
married  to  a  lady,  kinswoman  to  my  Lord  Arundel  of 
Wardour,  by  the  Queen's  Lord  Almoner,  L.  Aubigny  in 
St.  James's  chapel,  solemnized  his  wedding  night  at  my 
house  with  much  company. 

2  2d  June,  1664.  One  Tomson,  a  Jesuit,  showed  me 
such  a  collection  of  rarities,  sent  from  the  Jesuits  of 
Japan  and  China  to  their  Order  at  Paris,  as  a  present  to 
be  reserved  in  their  repository,  but  brought  to  London 
by  the  East  India  ships  for  them,  as  in  my  life  I  had 
not  seen.  The  chief  things  were,  rhinoceros's  horns; 
glorious  vests,  wrought  and  embroidered  on  cloth  of 
gold,  but  with  such  lively  colors,  that  for  splendor  and 
vividness  we  have  nothing  in  Europe  that  approaches  it; 
a  girdle  studded  with  agates  and  rubies  of  great  value 
and  size;  knives,  of  so  keen  an  edge  as  one  could  not 
touch  them,  nor  was  the  metal  of  our  color,  but  more 
pale  and  livid;  fans,  like  those  our  ladies  use,  but  much 
larger,  and  with  long  handles  curiously  carved  and 
filled  with  Chinese  characters ;  a  sort  of  paper  very  broad, 
thin,  and  fine,  like  abortive  parchment,  and  exquisitely 
polished,  of  an  amber  yellow,  exceedingly  glorious  and 
pretty  to  look  on,  and  seeming  to  be  like  that  which  my 

*A  Roman  Catholic. 


374  DIARY  OF  LONDON 

Lord  Verulam  describes  in  his  *-^ Nova  Atlantis^^ ;  several 
other  sorts  of  paper,  some  written,  others  printed;  prints 
of  landscapes,  their  idols,  saints,  pagods,  of  most  ugly 
serpentine  monstrous  and  hideous  shapes,  to  which  they 
paid  devotion;  pictures  of  men  and  countries,  rarely 
painted  on  a  sort  of  gummed  calico,  transparent  as  glass ; 
flowers,  trees,  beasts,  birds,  etc.,  excellently  wrought  in 
a  kind  of  sleeve  silk,  very  natural ;  divers  drugs  that  our 
druggfists  and  physicians  could  make  nothing  of,  espe- 
cially one  which  the  Jesuit  called  Lac  Tigridis  :  it  looked 
like  a  fungus,  but  was  weighty  like  metal,  yet  was  a 
concretion,  or  coagulation,  of  some  other  matter;  several 
book  MSS. ;  a  grammar  of  the  language  written  in  Span- 
ish ;  with  innumerable  other  rarities. 

ist  July,  1664.  Went  to  see  Mr.  Povey's  elegant  house 
in  Lincoln's-Inn  Fields,  where  the  perspective  in  his  court, 
painted  by  Streeter,  is  indeed  excellent,  with  the  vases 
in  imitation  of  porphyry,  and  fountains;  the  inlaying  of 
his  closet;  above  all,  his  pretty  cellar  and  ranging  of 
his  wine  bottles. 

7th  July,  1664.  To  Court,  where  I  subscribed  to  Sir 
Arthur  Slingsby's  lottery,  a  desperate  debt  owing  me 
long  since  in  Paris. 

14th  July,  1664,  I  went  to  take  leave  of  the  two  Mr. 
Howards,  now  going  to  Paris,  and  brought  them  as  far 
as  Bromley;  thence  to  Eltham,  to  see  Sir  John  Shaw's 
new  house,  now  building;  the  place  is  pleasant,  if  not  too 
wet,  but  the  house  not  well  contrived;  especially  the 
roof  and  rooms  too  low  pitched,  and  the  kitchen  where 
the  cellars  should  be ;  the  orangery  and  aviary  handsome, 
and  a  very  large  plantation  about  it. 

19th  July,  1664.  To  London,  to  see  the  event  of  the 
lottery  which  his  Majesty  had  permitted  Sir  Arthur 
Slingsby  to  set  up  for  one  day  in  the  Banqueting  House, 
at  Whitehall;  I  gaining  only  a  trifle,  as  well  as  did  the 
King,  Queen-Consort,  and  Queen-Mother,  for  near  thirty 
lots;  which  was  thought  to  be  contrived  very  unhand- 
somely by  the  master  of  it,  who  was,  in  truth,  a  mere 
shark. 

2ist  July,  1664.  I  dined  with  my  Lord  Treasurer  at 
Southampton  House,  where  his  Lordship  used  me  with 
singfular  humanity.  I  went  in  the  afternoon  to  Chelsea, 
to  wait  on  the  Duke  of  Ormond,  and  returned  to  London. 


i664  JOHN   EVELYN  375 

28th  July,  1664.  Came  to  see  me  Monsieur  Zuylichen, 
Secretary  to  the  Prince  of  Orange,  an  excellent  Latin 
poet,  a  rare  lutinist,  with  Monsieur  Oudart. 

3d  August,  1664.  To  London;  a  concert  of  excellent 
musicians,  especially  one  Mr.  Berkenshaw,  that  rare  ar- 
tist, who  invented  a  mathematical  way  of  composure 
very  extraordinary,  true  as  to  the  exact  rules  of  art,  but 
without  much  harmony. 

8th  August,  1664.  Came  the  sad  and  unexpected  news 
of  the  death  of  Lady  Cotton,  wife  to  my  brother  George, 
a  most  excellent  lady. 

9th  August,  1664.  Went  with  my  brother  Richard  to 
Wotton,  to  visit  and  comfort  my  disconsolate  brother; 
and  on  the  13th  saw  my  friend,  Mr.  Charles  Howard, 
at  Dipden,  near  Dorking. 

1 6th  August,  1664.  I  went  to  see  Sir  William  Ducie's 
house  at  Charlton;  which  he  purchased  of  my  excellent 
friend.  Sir  Henry  Newton,  now  nobly  furnished. 

2 2d  August,  1664.  I  went  from  London  to  Wotton,  to 
assist  at  the  funeral  of  my  sister-in-law,  the  Lady  Cotton, 
buried  in  our  dormitory  there,  she  being  put  up  in  lead. 
Dr.  Owen  made  a  profitable  and  pathetic  discourse,  con- 
cluding with  an  eulogy  of  that  virtuous,  pious,  and  de- 
serving lady.  It  was  a  very  solemn  funeral,  with  about 
fifty  mourners.  I  came  back  next  day  with  my  wife  to 
London. 

2d  September,  1664.  Came  Constantine  Huygens,  Si- 
gnor  de  Zuylichen,  Sir  Robert  Morris,  Mr.  Oudart,  Mr. 
Carew,  and  other  friends,  to  spend  the  day  with  us. 

5th  October,  1664.  To  our  Society.  There  was  brought 
a  newly-invented  instrument  of  music,  being  a  harpsi- 
chord with  gut-strings,  sounding  like  a  concert  of  viols 
with  an  organ,  made  vocal  by  a  wheel,  and  a  zone  of 
parchment  that  rubbed  horizontally  against  the  strings. 

6th  October,  1664.  I  heard  the  anniversary  oration  in 
praise  of  Dr.  Harvey,  in  the  Anatomy  Theatre  in  the 
College  of  Physicians;  after  which  I  was  invited  by  Dr. 
Alston,  the  President,  to  a  magnificent  feast. 

7th  October,  1664.  I  dined  at  Sir  Nicholas  Strood's,  one 
of  the  Masters  of  Chancery,  in  Great  St.  Bartholomew's; 
passing  the  evening  at  Whitehall,  with  the  Queen,  etc. 

8th  October,  1664.  Sir  William  Curtius,  his  Majesty's 
Resident   in   Germany,  came   to  visit  me;  he  was  a  wise 


376  DIARY  OF  oxford 

and  learned  gentleman,  and,  as  he  told  me,  scholar  to 
Henry  Alstedius,  the  Encyclopedist. 

15th  October,  1664.  Dined  at  the  Lord  Chancellor's, 
where  was  the  Duke  of  Ormond,  Earl  of  Cork,  and  Bishop 
of  Winchester.  After  dinner,  my  Lord  Chancellor  and 
his  lady  carried  me  in  their  coach  to  see  their  palace 
(for  he  now  lived  at  Worcester- House  in  the  Strand), 
building  at  the  upper  end  of  St.  James's  street,  and  to 
project  the  garden.  In  the  evening,  I  presented  him 
with  my  book  on  Architecture,*  as  before  I  had  done  to 
his  Majesty  and  the  Queen-Mother.  His  lordship  caused 
me  to  stay  with  him  in  his  bedchamber,  discoursing  of 
several  matters  very  late,  even  till  he  was  going  into  his  bed. 

17th  October,  1664.  I  went  with  my  Lord  Viscount 
Combury,  to  Cornbury,  in  Oxfordshire,  to  assist  him  in 
the  planting  of  the  park,  and  bear  him  company,  with 
Mr.  Belin  and  Mr.  May,  in  a  coach  with  six  horses; 
dined  at  Uxbridge,  lay  at  Wycombe. 

,  i8th  October,  1664,  At  Oxford.  Went  through  Wood- 
stock, where  we  beheld  the  destruction  of  that  royal  seat 
and  park  by  the  late  rebels,  and  arrived  that  evening  at 
Combury,  a  house  lately  built  by  the  Earl  of  Denbigh,  in 
the  middle  of  a  sweet  park,  walled  with  a  dry  wall.  The 
house  is  of  excellent  freestone,  abounding  in  that  part, 
(a  stone  that  is  fine,  but  never  sweats,  or  casts  any  damp) ; 
it  is  of  ample  dimensions,  has  goodly  cellars,  the  paving  of 
the  hall  admirable  for  its  close  laying.  We  designed  a 
handsome  chapel  that  was  yet  wanting:  as  Mr.  May  had 
the  stables,  which  indeed  are  very  fair,  having  set  out  the 
walks  in  the  parks  and  gardens.  The  lodge  is  a  pretty 
solitude,  and  the  ponds  very  convenient;  the  park  well 
stored. 

20th  October,  1664.  Hence,  to  see  the  famous  wells, 
natural  and  artificial  grots  and  fountains,  called  Bushell's 
Wells,  at  Enstone.  This  Bushell  had  been  Secretary  to 
my  Lord  Verulam.  It  is  an  extraordinary  solitude.  There 
he  had  two  mummies ;  a  grot  where  he  lay  in  a  hammock, 
like  an  Indian.  Hence,  we  went  to  Dichley,  an  ancient 
seat  of  the  Lees,  now  Sir  Henry  Lee's;  it  is  a  low  ancient 
timber-house,  with  a  pretty  bowling-green.    My  Lady  gave 

*«  Parallel  between  Ancient  and  Modern  Architecture,  origfinally 
written  in  French,  by  Roland  Freart,  Sieiir  de  Chambray,"  and  trans- 
lated by  Evelyn.     See  his  « Miscellaneous  Writings. » 


i664  JOHN   EVELYN  377 

us  an  extraordinary  dinner.  This  gentleman's  mother  was 
Countess  of  Rochester,  who  was  also  there,  and  Sir  Walter 
St.  John.  There  were  some  pictures  of  their  ancestors, 
not  ill  painted;  the  great-grandfather  had  been  Knight 
of  the  Garter;  there  was  a  picture  of  a  Pope,  and  our 
Savior's  head.     So  we  returned  to  Combury. 

24th  October,  1664.  We  dined  at  Sir  Timothy  Tyrill's 
at  Shotover.  This  gentleman  married  the  daughter  and 
heir  of  Dr.  James  Usher,  Archbishop  of  Armagh,  that 
learned  prelate.  There  is  here  in  the  grove  a  fountain 
of  the  coldest  water  I  ever  felt,  and  very  clear.  His 
plantation  of  oaks  and  other  timber  is  very  commendable. 
We  went  in  the  evening  to  Oxford,  lay  at  Dr.  Hyde's, 
principal  of  Magdalen- Hall  (related  to  the  Lord  Chan- 
cellor), brother  to  the  Lord  Chief  Justice  and  that  Sir 
Henry  Hyde,  who  lost  his  head  for  his  loyalty.  We  were 
handsomely  entertained  two  days.  The  Vice-Chancellor, 
who  with  Dr.  Fell,  Dean  of  Christ  Church,  the  learned 
Dr.  Barlow,  Warden  of  Queen's,  and  several  heads  of 
houses,  came  to  visit  Lord  Combury  (his  father  being 
now  Chancellor  of  the  University),  and  next  day  invited 
us  all  to  dinner.  I  went  to  visit  Mr.  Boyle  (now  here), 
whom  I  found  with  Dr.  Wallis  and  Dr.  Christopher  Wren, 
in  the  tower  of  the  schools,  with  an  inverted  tube,  or 
telescope,  observing  the  discus  of  the  sun  for  the  pass- 
ing of  Mercury  that  day  before  it;  but  the  latitude  was 
so  great  that  nothing  appeared;  so  we  went  to  see  the 
rarities  in  the  library,  where  the  keepers  showed  me  my 
name  among  the  benefactors.  They  have  a  cabinet  of 
some  medals,  and  pictures  of  the  muscular  parts  of  man's 
body.  Thence,  to  the  new  theater,  now  building  at  an 
exceeding  and  royal  expense  by  the  Lord  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury  [Sheldon],  to  keep  the  Acts  in  for  the  future, 
till  now  being  in  St.  Mary's  Church.  The  foundation 
had  been  newly  laid,  and  the  whole  designed  by  that 
incomparable  genius  my  worthy  friend,  Dr.  Christopher 
Wren,  who  showed  me  the  model,  not  disdaining  my 
advice  in  some  particulars.  Thence,  to  see  the  picture 
on  the  wall  over  the  altar  of  All  Souls,  being  the  largest 
piece  of  fresco  painting  (or  rather  in  imitation  of  it,  for 
it  is  in  oil  of  turpentine)  in  England,  not  ill  designed  by 
the  hand  of  one  Fuller ;  yet  I  fear  it  will  not  hold  long. 
It  seems  too  full  of  nakeds  for  a  chapel. 


378  DIARY   OF  London 

Thence,  to  New  College,  and  the  painting  of  Magdalen 
chapel,  which  is  on  blue  cloth  in  chiar  oscuro,  by  one 
Greenborow,  being  a  Ccena  Domini,  and  a  *^  Last  Judg- 
ment" on  the  wall  by  Fuller,  as  in  the  other,  but  some- 
what varied. 

Next  to  Wadham,  and  the  Physic  Garden,  where  were 
two  large  locust  trees,  and  as  many  platani  (plane  trees), 
and  some  rare  plants  under  the  culture  of  old  Bobart. 

26th  October,  1664.  We  came  back  to  Beaconsfield ; 
next  day  to  London,  where  we  dined  at  the  Lord  Chan- 
cellor's, with  my  Lord  Bellasis. 

27th  October,  1664.  Being  casually  in  the  privy  gallery 
at  Whitehall,  his  Majesty  gave  me  thanks  before  divers  lords 
and  noblemen  for  my  book  of  *' Architecture,*  and  again 
for  my  ^*  Sylva  *  saying  they  were  the  best  designed  and 
useful  for  the  matter  and  subject,  the  best  printed  and 
designed  (meaning  the  taille-douces  of  the  Parallel  of 
Architecture)  that  he  had  seen.  He  then  caused  me  to 
follow  him  alone  to  one  of  the  windows,  and  asked  me 
if  I  had  any  paper  about  me  unwritten,  and  a  crayon;  I 
presented  him  with  both,  and  then  laying  it  on  the 
window-stool,  he  with  his  own  hands  designed  to  me  the 
plot  for  the  future  building  of  Whitehall,  together  with 
the  rooms  of  state,  and  other  particulars.  After  this,  he 
talked  with  me  of  several  matters,  asking  my  advice,  in 
which  I  find  his  Majesty  had  an  extraordinary  talent  be- 
coming a  magnificent  prince. 

The  same  day  at  Council,  there  being  Commissioners 
to  be  made  to  take  care  of  such  sick  and  wounded  and 
prisoners  of  war,  as  might  be  expected  upon  occasion  of 
a  succeeding  war  and  action  at  sea,  war  being  already 
declared  againt  the  Hollanders,  his  Majesty  was  pleased 
to  nominate  me  to  be  one,  with  three  other  gentlemen. 
Parliament  men,  viz,  Sir  William  Doily,  Knt.  and  Bart., 
Sir  Thomas  Clifford,  and  Bullein  Rheymes,  Esq. ;  with  a 
salary  of  ;i^i,2oo  a  year  among  us,  besides  extraordi- 
naries  for  our  care  and  attention  in  time  of  station, 
each  of  us  being  appointed  to  a  particular  district,  mine 
falling  out  to  be  Kent  and  Sussex,  with  power  to  consti- 
tute officers,  physicians,  chirurgeons,  provost-marshals, 
and  to  dispose  of  half  of  the  hospitals  through  England. 
After  the  Council,  we  kissed  his  Majesty's  hand.  At  this 
Council  I  heard  Mr.  Solicitor  Finch  plead  most  elegantly 


i664  JOHN  EVELYN  379 

for  the  merchants  trading  to  the  Canaries,  praying  for  a 
new  Charter. 

29th  October,  1664.  Was  the  most  magnificent  triumph 
by  water  and  land  of  the  Lord  Mayor.  I  dined  at  Guild- 
hall at  the  upper  table,  placed  next  to  Sir  H.  Bennett, 
Secretary  of  State,  opposite  to  my  Lord  Chancellor  and 
the  Duke  of  Buckingham,  who  sat  between  Monsieur 
Comminges,  the  French  Ambassador,  Lord  Treasurer, 
the  Dukes  of  Ormond  and  Albemarle,  Earl  of  Manches- 
ter, Lord  Chamberlain,  and  the  rest  of  the  g^eat  officers 
of  state.  My  Lord  Mayor  came  twice  up  to  us,  first 
drinking  in  the  golden  goblet  his  Majesty's  health,  then 
the  French  King's  as  a  compliment  to  the  Ambassador; 
we  returned  my  Lord  Mayor's  health,  the  trumpets  and 
drums  sounding.  The  cheer  was  not  to  be  imagined  for 
the  plenty  and  rarity,  with  an  infinite  number  of  per- 
sons at  the  tables  in  that  ample  hall.  The  feast  was 
said  to  cost  ;^i,ooo,  I  slipped  away  in  the  crowd,  and 
came  home  late. 

31st  October,  1664.  I  was  this  day  44  years  of  age; 
for  which  I  returned  thanks  to  Almighty  God,  begging 
his  merciful  protection  for  the  year  to  come. 

2d  November,  1664.  Her  Majesty,  the  Queen-Mother, 
came  across  the  gallery  in  Whitehall  to  give  me  thanks 
for  my  book  of  **  Architecture, "  which  I  had  presented 
to  her,  with  a  compliment  that  I  did  by  no  means  de- 
serve. 

1 6th  November,  1664.  We  chose  our  treasurer,  clerks, 
and  messengers,  and  appointed  our  seal,  which  I  ordered 
should  be  the  good  Samaritan,  with  this  motto,  "  Fac 
similiter.^  Painters'  Hall  was  lent  us  to  meet  in.  In  the 
great  room  were  divers  pictures,  some  reasonably  good, 
that  had  been  given  to  the  Company  by  several  of  the 
wardens  and  masters  of  the  Company. 

23d  November,  1664.  Our  statutes  now  finished,  were 
read  before  a  full  assembly  of  the  Royal  Society. 

24th  November,  1664.  His  Majesty  was  pleased  to  tell 
me  what  the  conference  was  with  the  Holland  Ambas- 
sador, which,  as  after  I  found,  was  the  heads  of  the 
speech  he  made  at  the  reconvention  of  the  Parliament, 
which  now  began. 

2d  December,  1664.  We  delivered  the  Privy  Council's 
letters   to    the    Governors    of  St.   Thomas's    Hospital,   in 


38o  DIARY  OF  London 

Southwark,  that  a  moiety  of  the  house  should  be  reserved 
for  such  sick  and  wounded  as  should  from  time  to  time 
be  sent  from  the  fleet  during  the  war.  This  being  de- 
livered at  their  Court,  the  President  and  several  Alder- 
men, Governors  of  that  Hospital,  invited  us  to  a  great 
feast  in  Fishmongers'  Hall. 

2oth  December,  1664.  To  London,  our  last  sitting,  tak- 
ing order  for  our  personal  visiting  our  several  districts. 
I  dined  at  Captain  Cocke's  (our  treasurer),  with  that 
most  ingenious  gentleman,  Matthew  Wren,  son  to  the 
Bishop  of  Ely,  and  Mr.  Joseph  Williamson,  since  Secretary 
of  State. 

2 2d  December,  1664.  I  went  to  the  launching  of  a  new 
ship  of  two  bottoms,  invented  by  Sir  William  Petty,  on 
which  were  various  opinions;  his  Majesty  being  present, 
gave  her  the  name  of  the  *  Experiment  ** :  so  I  returned 
home,  where  I  found  Sir  Humphry  Winch,  who  spent  the 
day  with  me. 

This  year  I  planted  the  lower  grove  next  the  pond  at 
Sayes  Court.  It  was  now  exceedingly  cold,  and  a  hard, 
long,  frosty  season,  and  the  comet  was  very  visible. 

28th  December,  1664.  Some  of  my  poor  neighbors 
dined  with  me,  and  others  of  my  tenants,  according  to 
my  annual  custom. 

31st  December,  1664.  Set  my  affairs  in  order,  gave  God 
praise  for  His  mercies  the  past  year,  and  prepared  for 
the  reception  of  the  Holy  Sacrament,  which  I  partook  of 
the  next  day,  after  hearing  our  minister  on  the  4th  of 
Galatians,  verses  4,  5,  of  the  mystery  of  our  Blessed 
Savior's  Incarnation. 


Date  Due 

•'■**38 

•**'«» 

UAa  28  "57 

1 

1 

f 

BAldll 


E9A2 

1901 

v.l 


